Appreciate the deep dive and breaking the "perfect" mystique of this wheel! I hope to get one eventually, never batch 1. Hopefully they can solve that pedal dipping issue, I *hate* pedal dipping! My V12HT pedal dips on occasion, and I have to calibrate it every so often.
The 50s version is $400aud more than the 50e and I had the same thinking as you before about it not lasting as long so I ordered the 50e. I'm sure il stil be very happy with it
Thanks a million for such a comprehensive review. The new format is great. Maybe would like to hear more about ride, but to be fair by the time you reach the end it's pretty clear what your experience has been. Thanks for making such amazing reviews!
My Lynx has the newer Samsung 50 S batteries and a fresh firmware update and I just watched a full charge cycle with the batteries going from 40% to 100% state of charge. The highest temperature reached during the entire charge cycle was 26° C. And out of the 36 cells (in one pack) when the battery charger shut down, The lowest voltage cell was 4.203 V and the highest was 4.219 V. So I would say that is spot on!
BOSS!!! Insane detail review!! All points covered! Thanks so much for taking the time to ask for questions and then answer them… Thanks for sticking with it, really looking forward to the 1000km review 🙏🙏🙏🙏🥰🥰🥰🥰
I always like your HONEST reviews and I appreciate you for keeping it 100% !! I like hearing your opinion on things that I may not even agree with but for the most part you have become the guy I trust most with telling me about a wheel as alot of other You Tube EUC reviewers just say every wheel is great (mainly so they can stay in the good graces with the 4 companies making these awesome eucs that I love so much. My main concern is the 70lb suspension I ordered for my lynx since I am a Big Guy at 6'4" 270lbs. I didnt want to bottom out but I keep hearing the 62 was fine for most of the review riders... (I hope the 70lb wont be too stiff and ruin the ride ) My Lynx arrives on the 27th (3 days) so I will find out them and maybe if they aretopo stiff e-wheels can get me a 66 lb set for not too much $$ idk... but anyway ewheels is great and anyone in the US thinking about getting this wheel should consider them as they offfer great customer service and I am realizing after owning 4 wheels that having a good customer service is what I was missing with my other wheel... I cant wait for the lynx and my FIRST LEAPERKIM wheel as I have 2 Begodes and one Kingsong & now a Veteran finally --I am not interested in Inmotion as I tried a few of their wheels and the torque didnt impress .. just my opinion (i think the v14 would be one I would like but I liked the Lynx more).... Anyway Keep making these Honest, excellent videos ... Merry Christmas Adam & everyone out there in EUC land... HAVE A GREAT NEW YEAR IN 2024!!!
Mostly 66lbs is ofered as entry level suspension . 62 lbs will fit for me ( 65 kilos or max 70 with gear and backpack ) 66 for someones are still not enouh .
I weigh 190lb and have the 62lb suspension on order based on Ronins review. He’s 235lb and is okay with the 62lb suspension. I think you’ll be fine with the bigger spring at your weight.
Way to go Adam, kudos for speaking your mind, saying things as they are and not cutting manufacturers too much slack--which is beneficial for the entire community 🙌🙌🙌
This is a great review. I do appreciate the long format because I like to look at more than just the specs when deciding which wheel to purchase. This really gives a person the pros and cons of the various aspects that a person takes into consideration when spending that kind of money. Thank you for taking the time to put all of this together and share it.
I just got my first wheel. Got myself a used V12 HS. Hopefully, by the time I'm good enough at riding to be ready for an upgrade, they'll have that overcharging issue ironed out. Everything else sounds good, especially the charge rate.
@user-ke9yk5qp3u I'm angry with myself, right now. I'm a truck driver. I got the wheel to have something to keep in my truck to combat boredom when I'm stopped. I didn't feel comfortable practicing in parking lots with a bunch of other trucks driving around so I left it at home. My truck just broke and the freightliner dealer isn't open today or tomorrow and I'm parked at a hotel with truck parking. There are no other trucks in this lot. I could have practiced for the next 2 days and maybe made some progress.
@@WideLoad405 bummer! That will be the last time you don't bring it! It sounds like a perfect tool for a truck driver so you can get a little exercise and stretch your body out and have a little fun.
Also my Lynx has the Samsung 50 S batteries and a fresh firmware update and I just watched a full charging cycle and it is right on the money, there is absolutely no overcharging going on. And through the whole charging cycle the warmest temperature sensor only came up to 79° F.
You are very brave and has a very merciful heart. Thank you for your tech knowledges and standing side. By the way you always welcome in İstanbul and has a guest room.👏🤲👋
Great review. I particularly appreciate rhe transparency about getting the wheel for free from Leaperkim while still offering legitimate critiques and praise where it's due.
very unrelated but i think someone should make a msp but with the newer 50s cells, smart bms, and maybe a few other upgrades. the lynx looks like the best wheel out there for the most amount of people
fascinating that pedal dipping in turns has become an issue again. On your Sherman S review, you noted that there seems to be a software correction that activates a little bit after you start a turn, and I have noticed the same in my SS, in soft and hard mode.
I got the 70lbs shock because I weigh 90kg without my heavy backpack and I didn't want to bottom it out on big drops. Hopefully it's not too much when I get it
How about a comparison with older wheels? I have a ks18xl. I can't compare with other Leaperkim models. I often stop when driving, will this be a problem given the greater weight? 23 vs 40 kg
the biggest issue with older wheels is smaller pedal size. In compare to my ks16s i could not ride more 10 km without stops as from small pedals my feets is tired v. fast. But with Patton problem is gone. Solution - change to premium pedals, ie. Nylonove. Ofc suspension doing its job too
hi! are you still satisfied with 62lbs ? i'm 75kg i planning to do only offroad (not crazy jumps but still jumps), everyone seems advice 66lbs but I would like to have your opinion, please.
about the stripped screws, the thing IS made out of magnesium alloy, which is pretty soft and im pretty sure aluminum or steel hardware will quickly eat the threads.
Thank you for this comprehensive review. I learn a lot from you. I also appreciate that you discussed (but briefly) the need for electrical safety when working on one'e wheel. It's critically important. With such high battery voltages and current output capabilities, electrocution is a real possibility. Arc flashes and fires also. ----- 47:00 Pedal dipping when accelerating/braking 15:23 Ride mode adjustment ?
thank you. oh sorry, I was thinking more in terms of riding experience. if patton does better or is more fun than the lynx in certain configurations, like winding paths for example. I don't feel like it's night and day but I'm hesitating a little, I'm about to order 🥰
@@mr_wrongway it seems like a lot of people have the same without it having any consequence on the riding or suspension work. I have the same too but I changed my suspension for the Sherman S 58lbs one.
I use an aftermarket jeep fog lamp on my sherman max - it's an amber LED ring with a 30W 2400 lumen white low beam center lamp. I could angle it up for off road, but it's really great how fog lamps don't really shine up - only out and down. I totally agree, why do EUC builders continue to incorporate flood lamps for heal lights? It's not safe to blind others.
you shouldn't be concerned about the 151 volts but the amp going out, 300 volts dc is not fatal for humans but 0.2amp is enough to kill so even the 100 volts wheel can peek at 60 to 80amp while riding. You forgot to mention that if you get the street tire (which is tubeless) you will have less friction so better range in my experience with others wheel its not only 5km more but 20 to 30 more km range depending on the kind of battery and the speed your going, personally i do more street than offroad so i preorder the Lynx with the street tire but it's more of a preference. Btw i do like your plug and play headlight its pretty awesome it should come on the wheel already also the seat at this high end price. **the 50S has a better lifespan before decreasing also much lower resistance than the 50E so a bit better power output.
The idea of focusing on amps and ignoring voltage is potentially misleading. Current and voltage are inextricably linked via Ohm's Law. If a power supply is capable of providing more than around .1-.2 amps, then it can kill you if the voltage is high enough to push that current through a human body. If the batteries can be fully utilized by a 3,200W/8kW peak current consumption motor at 151.2V, this gives 21.2-52.9 amps, which is over 2 orders of magnitude beyond what can kill a person. The human body will have a resistance of 1k-100k ohms depending on the path travelled. Using Ohm's Law tells us that we can provide .1 amps through that level of resistance at 100V-10kV. This is why you don't fiddle with household electricity, as it generally provides 120-240V and way more than enough current. A good way to consider the potential amount of current that something could supply is to look at the power rating (also linked through Ohm's Law) in combination with the voltage. If you are looking to be at the lowest non-lethal threshold, anything below 10W or below 100V should be okay, though one should always be careful even at lower voltages as less-than-lethal shocks can still ruin your day. For a point of contrast, a 12V battery that has even an infinite reservoir of charge to draw current from can only push .012 amps through a human body. The only way to kill somebody with this would be to stab electrodes directly into their heart in order to get a low enough resistance between the terminals.
to your concern on voltage, 151v vs 100v wheel isn't more or less dangerous, amperage is the concern. At the same wattage, higher voltage is generally safer.
Getting a Lynx soon for a suburban work commute. BTW, I also have that headless Ibanez except in black paint and SSH pickups :P Very excited to try the Lynx. Thank you for this content, friend.
I am a home brew battery specialist. If you intend to charge the cells to 4.2V, then there is no problem to charge them to 4.22V. They won't explode, leak, catch fire or have a 2x shorter life span or something. If you, for some reason, are concerned about cycle life, then you shouldn't be. The cells will degrade much faster due to age in an EUC, than to being charged to a higher voltage, unless you are a courier and cycle the battery 3 times a day. 99.99% the wheel will be long gone until noticeable battery degradation will kick in.
This is only true for battery cells that can charge to 4.22 volts and hold that charge for at least 5 hours. As battery packs degrade over time, cells that cannot maintain charge will lower the total system voltage slightly, and continuously attempting to overcharge degraded cells will accelerate damage. This s why EVERY wheel owner should have cell monitors and the lowest fully charged voltage in the group should be the maximum voltage output of the charger. This is why BOB YAN developed the PIDzoom ‘Charger Enhancer’ (announced last week). Ideally we would get reading for individual cell RESISTANCE in addition to voltage. Dendritic decay is the main reason why thermal overload occurs, and cell resistance is a good indicator of pack health. As a hobbyist, I’m sure you resistance “match” cells to ensure a safe pack. Even degraded cells are fine to use as long as matching is done and park charge voltage is reduced appropriately. Please let me know if this doesn’t jive with your experience.
@@grb1969 First of all - the recommended charge voltage by manufacturers is usually 4.2V per cell with some sort of a current cutoff, so it's not even a true 4.2v charge. Second - the charge voltage is specified by the manufacturer as 4.2+/-0.05V... That means that the manufacturer says that it's OK to charge the cells up to 4.25V. Third - a BMS is not a measurement instrument: if it shows 4.2V it doesn't mean that it's actually 4.2V, it can be 3.5V, 5V or who knows how much, unless the BMS is somewhat calibrated. Most run of the mill multimeters have +/-1% accuracy, and that's +/-0.042V (doesn't that sound familiar to 0.05V?), and that's a measurement instrument, not some toy that can display some numbers. So, If the BMS shows less then 4.25V per cell - I don't see a problem. Fourth - dendrite growth is not the sole reason for battery degradation. Those dendrites can grow all they want, unless they get too big as to pierce through the insulator - that's when you start to get problems. But you should be aware that dendrite growth is influenced not only by voltage, but also by current and temperature. If you charge a cell to 4.25V at 25C with 0.3C current - then the dendrite growth will be waaaay less compared to charging the same cell to say 4.2V at 15C but 3C current (that is what exactly happens when you break in moderately cold weather). And charging (breaking) at any sub-zero temps is almost a death sentence. So to me it sounds hypocritical that charging to 4.25V is a problem coming from a man who charges his EUCs at sub-zero temps (winter driving) with high currents on a daily basis (breaking). Like I said - I wouldn't wory at all about that slightly elevated voltage. And IMO any technical stuff including voltages should be shown only to power users - people who can correctly interpret the information.
@@ИванИванов-м6ч1о I agree. The problem for the casual user is that they have little control over over-current abuse of their batteries, whereas over the lifespan of the batteries, over-voltage conditions can cumulatively creep unnoticed by users and prematurely degrade performance. As cells degrade below 4.2V yet the charger remains at 4.25V, the gap accelerating cumulative damage and eventually risks thermal runaway. If we’re specifically looking at increasing battery lifespan, why not lower the charge voltage (or use the PIDzoom Charger Enhancer) to limit the additional stress on the anode? The are structural changes in design that could increase over-current damages (besides switching to LiFePo4) but these options have yet to be implemented on EUC vehicles. Are you suggesting that over-voltage charging has negligible effect on overall lifetime and battery safety? If so, then do you see Bob Yan’s charge cut-off device as superfluous? Similarly, why not charge to 4.25V and store your batteries indefinitely until use? I’ve been of the opinion that 20% low-80%high is my preferred range for intermittent use and only charge to 100% if I’m going to be using my vehicles within a few hours of reaching 100% SOC: I know this subject is controversial but I would like to hear other opinions. Related to this topic, what recommendations do you have for MSP owners with LG M50T cells who would like to keep riding and charging worry-free? Wouldn’t reducing charge voltage make sense to prevent home fires? Anecdotally, my 12 years old electric car still has 85% total charge capacity which is about 10-25% higher than similar vintage vehicles. I attribute this to a slower charging rate, slow acceleration/top speeds and very conservative driving style. (Granted, it’s a Gen1 battery and newer designs can handle more abuse.) I’m genuinely curious as a hobbyist. Thanks for your reply.
@@ИванИванов-м6ч1о How cold does the battery have to be for braking to have a negative effect? ie, what temperature do you recommend to stop riding at for battery life expectancy.
Can the overcharging be fixed by firmware update? Getting my delivered in march and those cycle life charts doesn't look good for that very little extra range I probably won't need.. Thanks for a great review. Please do more lynx videos😊
Adam did you ever fix that suspension noise you were saying wasn't there when it was new? I rode a lynx for the first time the other day a friend just got one and it was brand new like less than 10 miles on it and it had the same noise. I remember hearing someone say that the suspension is basically topping out, but I don't know. I'm curious if you resolved that or just got used to it or what.
I like the tail light, but glad for the after market halo head light :) Yay for being able to alter beeper's volume control, that doesn't change alarm volume!
Looks like this wheel with 2.7 kWh of 50S cells could potentially get about 40,000 miles before the cells degrade to 80%. But the auto industry keeps telling us we need cars with 60 - 100 kWh batteries... 😛 EUCs could be even more sustainable with motors that either have no magnets / fewer magnets / magnets that use alternatives to rare earth metals, and tires that use alternatives to rubber or that wear slower.
I wish battery size was stated correctly in adds, not a rounded up number. Sides of stock pedals still looks rather sharp. Impressive looking wheel. My last complaint is I don't have it ha.
BMS: it is not the BMS job to control charging. BMS protects by hard cut-off for outside of parameter conditions and levels the cells. Using the BMS to control charging is dangerous as a hard power cutoff means no power, no braking. The charging circuit controls the charging as it can control the amount of current rather than just on/off. The charger could monitor the BMS to find out individual cell voltages and be more protective of the battery pack. Braking on a full pack: This is a solved problem many years ago (1970s or earlier) in early wind turbines for generating power. It is called a dump load. When the charging circuit (this includes the regen circuit) knows the battery is full, regen should be routed to a dump load. This is simple easy to do, one control line, one relay (solid state probably), one beefy resister. Stopping is more important than going. I understand that this circuitry would only be used for the first few minutes of a ride or on long downhill stretches but still important. In theory, the regen energy should only ever equal the energy already used from the battery.... except where downhill is involved.
The stock "laser light" are not even enough to drive at night. I recommand to add a real big front light. Even 3x that power is not half the power of a car or a motorcycle. Blinding people is a false problem. If you don't see them at 40 km/h at night you can hurt them.
Thanks for the vid! For safety, I just wanted to point out that you're better off with blinking tail lights as drivers tend to go into autopilot when making familiar and boring commutes, during which time, their brains tend to register solid lights as static or stationary objects like stop lights, whereas blinking simulates motion and draws the brain's attention. This is why new automobiles have started using sequential and animated brake lights and turn signals nowadays.
Hello Adam, great video. I have a question. I'm on an 18XL to get to work. I also have to take public transport (train, bus) and the weather is unpredictable. But I would like a suspended wheel. What would you advise me based on your experiences? After that, continue your videos, it’s good work! 👌
Hi, can you please say me How many km does it travel on one charge? I am a Delivery driver and this information is very important to me. I need real experience and can you you give me advice for street tire please. Thank you
23:09 actually there were quite a number of cases where the mudguards would be pushed to one side of the wheel for the patton and sherman s including my patton
What happened with your thoughts on the patton ? You sounded so into it in your original initial review video, but haven't heard anything about it from u since, which I found surprising considering your initial reaction to it
We need a good comprehensive reviews like this especially when we are thinking of spending £4000 on a wheel you want to make the right choice.👍
Thank you very much for your hard and great work !
Thank you so much for watching and for the generous donation! It has been SOOOOO much work!
Merry Christmas Mr Wrong Way.
Thank you so much! Merry Christmas Skampster! ✌️
Awesome video! Thank you for your hard work and dedication.
Thank you so much! Thanks for the generous donation! It brings me joy to see so much positive feedback!
Appreciate the deep dive and breaking the "perfect" mystique of this wheel!
I hope to get one eventually, never batch 1. Hopefully they can solve that pedal dipping issue, I *hate* pedal dipping! My V12HT pedal dips on occasion, and I have to calibrate it every so often.
Thank you so much for your generous donation! Im glad you liked the video :) I hope you get to the wheel of your dreams!
@@mr_wrongwayOne rule with electricity always put on protective clothing (gloves) when you have the possibility of getting shocked.
(100v 120v 150v….
Great review, Adam! Can’t wait to get my Lynx.
Thank you so much WheelyDope! So generous of you 😊😊😊 you’ll enjoy it so much! Cheers :)
The 50s version is $400aud more than the 50e and I had the same thinking as you before about it not lasting as long so I ordered the 50e. I'm sure il stil be very happy with it
Thanks a million for such a comprehensive review. The new format is great. Maybe would like to hear more about ride, but to be fair by the time you reach the end it's pretty clear what your experience has been. Thanks for making such amazing reviews!
My Lynx has the newer Samsung 50 S batteries and a fresh firmware update and I just watched a full charge cycle with the batteries going from 40% to 100% state of charge. The highest temperature reached during the entire charge cycle was 26° C. And out of the 36 cells (in one pack) when the battery charger shut down, The lowest voltage cell was 4.203 V and the highest was 4.219 V. So I would say that is spot on!
BOSS!!!
Insane detail review!!
All points covered!
Thanks so much for taking the time to ask for questions and then answer them…
Thanks for sticking with it, really looking forward to the 1000km review 🙏🙏🙏🙏🥰🥰🥰🥰
The most talented and charismatic EUC RUclipsr in the world! Love the shirt!
Your reviews are the best 👏👏👏
Thanks so much YourAubsome !!! You’re a great rider yourself!
They really are lol
Love this format Adam. Great video. Super detailed. Top notch.
These reviews are fantastic and some of the longest videos I have watched on RUclips. Please keep this up.
I always like your HONEST reviews and I appreciate you for keeping it 100% !! I like hearing your opinion on things that I may not even agree with but for the most part you have become the guy I trust most with telling me about a wheel as alot of other You Tube EUC reviewers just say every wheel is great (mainly so they can stay in the good graces with the 4 companies making these awesome eucs that I love so much.
My main concern is the 70lb suspension I ordered for my lynx since I am a Big Guy at 6'4" 270lbs. I didnt want to bottom out but I keep hearing the 62 was fine for most of the review riders... (I hope the 70lb wont be too stiff and ruin the ride ) My Lynx arrives on the 27th (3 days) so I will find out them and maybe if they aretopo stiff e-wheels can get me a 66 lb set for not too much $$ idk... but anyway ewheels is great and anyone in the US thinking about getting this wheel should consider them as they offfer great customer service and I am realizing after owning 4 wheels that having a good customer service is what I was missing with my other wheel... I cant wait for the lynx and my FIRST LEAPERKIM wheel as I have 2 Begodes and one Kingsong & now a Veteran finally --I am not interested in Inmotion as I tried a few of their wheels and the torque didnt impress .. just my opinion (i think the v14 would be one I would like but I liked the Lynx more).... Anyway Keep making these Honest, excellent videos ... Merry Christmas Adam & everyone out there in EUC land... HAVE A GREAT NEW YEAR IN 2024!!!
Mostly 66lbs is ofered as entry level suspension . 62 lbs will fit for me ( 65 kilos or max 70 with gear and backpack ) 66 for someones are still not enouh .
I’m 300# with gear…. please let us know how the 70# springs work out for you.
I did order the 66 and im only 175lbs, There are so many adjustments you can try i think you will be happy with the 70 considering your weight.
@@grb1969 will do mate. yea I am more than 270 with gear... that is w/o gear so we may be close, I will let you know how it feels !!
I weigh 190lb and have the 62lb suspension on order based on Ronins review. He’s 235lb and is okay with the 62lb suspension. I think you’ll be fine with the bigger spring at your weight.
I’m having Troubles understanding the weight difference in the spring what is it there for
Rider weight
Love the new format!
Way to go Adam, kudos for speaking your mind, saying things as they are and not cutting manufacturers too much slack--which is beneficial for the entire community 🙌🙌🙌
This is a great review. I do appreciate the long format because I like to look at more than just the specs when deciding which wheel to purchase. This really gives a person the pros and cons of the various aspects that a person takes into consideration when spending that kind of money. Thank you for taking the time to put all of this together and share it.
I just got my first wheel. Got myself a used V12 HS. Hopefully, by the time I'm good enough at riding to be ready for an upgrade, they'll have that overcharging issue ironed out. Everything else sounds good, especially the charge rate.
The V 12 was also my first wheel and I just got my Lynx today! It's so awesome!
@user-ke9yk5qp3u I'm angry with myself, right now. I'm a truck driver. I got the wheel to have something to keep in my truck to combat boredom when I'm stopped. I didn't feel comfortable practicing in parking lots with a bunch of other trucks driving around so I left it at home. My truck just broke and the freightliner dealer isn't open today or tomorrow and I'm parked at a hotel with truck parking. There are no other trucks in this lot. I could have practiced for the next 2 days and maybe made some progress.
@@WideLoad405 bummer! That will be the last time you don't bring it! It sounds like a perfect tool for a truck driver so you can get a little exercise and stretch your body out and have a little fun.
Also my Lynx has the Samsung 50 S batteries and a fresh firmware update and I just watched a full charging cycle and it is right on the money, there is absolutely no overcharging going on. And through the whole charging cycle the warmest temperature sensor only came up to 79° F.
You are very brave and has a very merciful heart.
Thank you for your tech knowledges and standing side.
By the way you always welcome in İstanbul and has a guest room.👏🤲👋
Great review. I particularly appreciate rhe transparency about getting the wheel for free from Leaperkim while still offering legitimate critiques and praise where it's due.
I love this new format! Thanks mate❤
What is the maximum size tyre that will fit without scraping the inside?
I’ve seen an 80/100 so far, I’m not 100% sure but I believe 90/90 is too big.
@@mcfly_ev i heard about 90/90 will work on KS22 but on highest suspension setting
@@milordas I believe 90/90 is too wide for the Lynx, I’ve seen one on a Sherman S, and they ended up having to shave it.
Nice to see you back🎉 Hope you had a great vacation.
Love the leg sliding scene, great video as always.
very unrelated but i think someone should make a msp but with the newer 50s cells, smart bms, and maybe a few other upgrades. the lynx looks like the best wheel out there for the most amount of people
Awesome review, I love your videos , very informative, thank you!!!!!!
Can you tell your feeling of difference between Kingsong s22-pro and lynx suspension?
fascinating that pedal dipping in turns has become an issue again. On your Sherman S review, you noted that there seems to be a software correction that activates a little bit after you start a turn, and I have noticed the same in my SS, in soft and hard mode.
Big fan of the pedal dip, I loved it on the OG Sherman, I hope this feels similar.
@@mcfly_ev my exn does it and I don't mind it on the street, it's only on trails that i'm not a fan of it.
I got the 70lbs shock because I weigh 90kg without my heavy backpack and I didn't want to bottom it out on big drops. Hopefully it's not too much when I get it
I would love to hear an update on this. I weigh almost 100kg and assume I need the 70lb shock.... Thoughts?
LIKE the format. Great coverage video. Thanks........
Thanks Adam. We're all eager to hear as much as we can about this new beauty wheel.
So what ended causing the knocking sound in the suspension at the 44min mark?
Haha it’s too funny that you answered my question. It’s so nice having you back and I really enjoy your videos. The smelling part is too funny.
I had to! Haha :) I’m glad you liked the video :) sitting so long and reviewing I had to cheer myself up with jokes hahaa
How about a comparison with older wheels? I have a ks18xl. I can't compare with other Leaperkim models. I often stop when driving, will this be a problem given the greater weight? 23 vs 40 kg
I really want to do that! For sure!
Initially, it’ll be more of a challenge to handle a larger wheel, but with time and practice it’ll be as easy as the smaller one.
the biggest issue with older wheels is smaller pedal size. In compare to my ks16s i could not ride more 10 km without stops as from small pedals my feets is tired v. fast. But with Patton problem is gone. Solution - change to premium pedals, ie. Nylonove. Ofc suspension doing its job too
hi! are you still satisfied with 62lbs ? i'm 75kg i planning to do only offroad (not crazy jumps but still jumps), everyone seems advice 66lbs but I would like to have your opinion, please.
about the stripped screws, the thing IS made out of magnesium alloy, which is pretty soft and im pretty sure aluminum or steel hardware will quickly eat the threads.
Hi bro, do you feel a difference in torque between the lynx and the patton and if so, what feels stronger to you?
Thank you for this comprehensive review. I learn a lot from you.
I also appreciate that you discussed (but briefly) the need for electrical safety when working on one'e wheel. It's critically important. With such high battery voltages and current output capabilities, electrocution is a real possibility. Arc flashes and fires also.
-----
47:00 Pedal dipping when accelerating/braking 15:23 Ride mode adjustment ?
That wall ride looks awesome! 1:43
It is! I need to do it with gear!
is there some cases that you will prefer take patton over lynx ?
Getting around town…Patton is smaller and more manageable. Easier to get in and out of places
thank you. oh sorry, I was thinking more in terms of riding experience. if patton does better or is more fun than the lynx in certain configurations, like winding paths for example. I don't feel like it's night and day but I'm hesitating a little, I'm about to order 🥰
43:55 Did you ever figure out what was loose? Mine is making the same noise and I don't want to take it all apart just yet!
Not yet. I need to take it apart
With the progressive springs do you think I'll be good with 66lb ? My weight is 225lb. I don't do big jumps or drops.
Great to have you back, keep up the good work!
Anyone know if that headlight would fit on the extreme bull commander mini?
Thanks :) Happy Holidays & Merry Christmas ; )
Where can I get the models for those little mini wheels on your windowsill @wrongway?
My respect for you grows everyday man! 🤙
Just a note about the hall sensor. It’s used in like walking speed only. When riding the wheel measures everything with back EMF from the motor phase
which is better when this compare to veteran sherman S ?
i prefer comfortable and range than speed or power
I was thinking, why not having a remote controller for the lights, turn signals, claxon, etc. ? delivered with the euc... Is it difficult to do ?
For visibility it's best to have lights and turn signals on your clothes.
Since you don’t consider the Lynx the best out there, which wheel ranks the best for you?
7:47 that creepy silhouette in the light…
Love the review, great job!
Did you find why there's a clunk clunck noise from suspension?
I didn’t :/
@@mr_wrongway it seems like a lot of people have the same without it having any consequence on the riding or suspension work. I have the same too but I changed my suspension for the Sherman S 58lbs one.
Amazing ‘initial’ review!!! 😊
14:42 where can i get the phone case?
So if I made a shock conversion for the extreme that let you put any shock on it would that be just the best off road wheel?
I just got mine today. It's so nice.
I was also looking at the light as well, but no decent overview of it. This helps.
Still like it? I'm trying to find a second hand lynx on marketplace but it seems like no one ever puts that up for sale lol
I use an aftermarket jeep fog lamp on my sherman max - it's an amber LED ring with a 30W 2400 lumen white low beam center lamp. I could angle it up for off road, but it's really great how fog lamps don't really shine up - only out and down. I totally agree, why do EUC builders continue to incorporate flood lamps for heal lights? It's not safe to blind others.
you shouldn't be concerned about the 151 volts but the amp going out, 300 volts dc is not fatal for humans but 0.2amp is enough to kill so even the 100 volts wheel can peek at 60 to 80amp while riding.
You forgot to mention that if you get the street tire (which is tubeless) you will have less friction so better range in my experience with others wheel its not only 5km more but 20 to 30 more km range depending on the kind of battery and the speed your going, personally i do more street than offroad so i preorder the Lynx with the street tire but it's more of a preference. Btw i do like your plug and play headlight its pretty awesome it should come on the wheel already also the seat at this high end price.
**the 50S has a better lifespan before decreasing also much lower resistance than the 50E so a bit better power output.
The idea of focusing on amps and ignoring voltage is potentially misleading. Current and voltage are inextricably linked via Ohm's Law. If a power supply is capable of providing more than around .1-.2 amps, then it can kill you if the voltage is high enough to push that current through a human body. If the batteries can be fully utilized by a 3,200W/8kW peak current consumption motor at 151.2V, this gives 21.2-52.9 amps, which is over 2 orders of magnitude beyond what can kill a person.
The human body will have a resistance of 1k-100k ohms depending on the path travelled. Using Ohm's Law tells us that we can provide .1 amps through that level of resistance at 100V-10kV. This is why you don't fiddle with household electricity, as it generally provides 120-240V and way more than enough current.
A good way to consider the potential amount of current that something could supply is to look at the power rating (also linked through Ohm's Law) in combination with the voltage. If you are looking to be at the lowest non-lethal threshold, anything below 10W or below 100V should be okay, though one should always be careful even at lower voltages as less-than-lethal shocks can still ruin your day.
For a point of contrast, a 12V battery that has even an infinite reservoir of charge to draw current from can only push .012 amps through a human body. The only way to kill somebody with this would be to stab electrodes directly into their heart in order to get a low enough resistance between the terminals.
Can you change the lean cutoff angle? I want to be able to hit some berms and bowls. If I get past 45 degrees on my v12ht it cuts out.
It’s all in the video :) you can :)
to your concern on voltage, 151v vs 100v wheel isn't more or less dangerous, amperage is the concern. At the same wattage, higher voltage is generally safer.
yes as you'll need less amperage to achieve the same wattage
Great channel and comprehensive review as usual.
May I ask how tall you are? I personally am 5’6, and am looking to see if a smaller person could handle a wheel as good as a taller person. Thanks
Getting a Lynx soon for a suburban work commute. BTW, I also have that headless Ibanez except in black paint and SSH pickups :P
Very excited to try the Lynx. Thank you for this content, friend.
Hey, I love the new format and am glad you're back. I just would love some bookmarks for these longer vids if possible
Lemme do them!
Time stamps have been added!
@mr_wrongway thank you very much
I am a home brew battery specialist. If you intend to charge the cells to 4.2V, then there is no problem to charge them to 4.22V. They won't explode, leak, catch fire or have a 2x shorter life span or something. If you, for some reason, are concerned about cycle life, then you shouldn't be. The cells will degrade much faster due to age in an EUC, than to being charged to a higher voltage, unless you are a courier and cycle the battery 3 times a day. 99.99% the wheel will be long gone until noticeable battery degradation will kick in.
This is only true for battery cells that can charge to 4.22 volts and hold that charge for at least 5 hours. As battery packs degrade over time, cells that cannot maintain charge will lower the total system voltage slightly, and continuously attempting to overcharge degraded cells will accelerate damage.
This s why EVERY wheel owner should have cell monitors and the lowest fully charged voltage in the group should be the maximum voltage output of the charger. This is why BOB YAN developed the PIDzoom ‘Charger Enhancer’ (announced last week).
Ideally we would get reading for individual cell RESISTANCE in addition to voltage. Dendritic decay is the main reason why thermal overload occurs, and cell resistance is a good indicator of pack health.
As a hobbyist, I’m sure you resistance “match” cells to ensure a safe pack. Even degraded cells are fine to use as long as matching is done and park charge voltage is reduced appropriately.
Please let me know if this doesn’t jive with your experience.
@@grb1969 First of all - the recommended charge voltage by manufacturers is usually 4.2V per cell with some sort of a current cutoff, so it's not even a true 4.2v charge. Second - the charge voltage is specified by the manufacturer as 4.2+/-0.05V... That means that the manufacturer says that it's OK to charge the cells up to 4.25V. Third - a BMS is not a measurement instrument: if it shows 4.2V it doesn't mean that it's actually 4.2V, it can be 3.5V, 5V or who knows how much, unless the BMS is somewhat calibrated. Most run of the mill multimeters have +/-1% accuracy, and that's +/-0.042V (doesn't that sound familiar to 0.05V?), and that's a measurement instrument, not some toy that can display some numbers. So, If the BMS shows less then 4.25V per cell - I don't see a problem. Fourth - dendrite growth is not the sole reason for battery degradation. Those dendrites can grow all they want, unless they get too big as to pierce through the insulator - that's when you start to get problems. But you should be aware that dendrite growth is influenced not only by voltage, but also by current and temperature. If you charge a cell to 4.25V at 25C with 0.3C current - then the dendrite growth will be waaaay less compared to charging the same cell to say 4.2V at 15C but 3C current (that is what exactly happens when you break in moderately cold weather). And charging (breaking) at any sub-zero temps is almost a death sentence. So to me it sounds hypocritical that charging to 4.25V is a problem coming from a man who charges his EUCs at sub-zero temps (winter driving) with high currents on a daily basis (breaking). Like I said - I wouldn't wory at all about that slightly elevated voltage. And IMO any technical stuff including voltages should be shown only to power users - people who can correctly interpret the information.
@@ИванИванов-м6ч1о I agree. The problem for the casual user is that they have little control over over-current abuse of their batteries, whereas over the lifespan of the batteries, over-voltage conditions can cumulatively creep unnoticed by users and prematurely degrade performance. As cells degrade below 4.2V yet the charger remains at 4.25V, the gap accelerating cumulative damage and eventually risks thermal runaway. If we’re specifically looking at increasing battery lifespan, why not lower the charge voltage (or use the PIDzoom Charger Enhancer) to limit the additional stress on the anode?
The are structural changes in design that could increase over-current damages (besides switching to LiFePo4) but these options have yet to be implemented on EUC vehicles.
Are you suggesting that over-voltage charging has negligible effect on overall lifetime and battery safety? If so, then do you see Bob Yan’s charge cut-off device as superfluous? Similarly, why not charge to 4.25V and store your batteries indefinitely until use? I’ve been of the opinion that 20% low-80%high is my preferred range for intermittent use and only charge to 100% if I’m going to be using my vehicles within a few hours of reaching 100% SOC: I know this subject is controversial but I would like to hear other opinions.
Related to this topic, what recommendations do you have for MSP owners with LG M50T cells who would like to keep riding and charging worry-free? Wouldn’t reducing charge voltage make sense to prevent home fires?
Anecdotally, my 12 years old electric car still has 85% total charge capacity which is about 10-25% higher than similar vintage vehicles. I attribute this to a slower charging rate, slow acceleration/top speeds and very conservative driving style. (Granted, it’s a Gen1 battery and newer designs can handle more abuse.)
I’m genuinely curious as a hobbyist. Thanks for your reply.
@@ИванИванов-м6ч1о How cold does the battery have to be for braking to have a negative effect? ie, what temperature do you recommend to stop riding at for battery life expectancy.
I want to know what are the limits with regards to snow.
Great review! Just got mine today! Love it!
Can the overcharging be fixed by firmware update? Getting my delivered in march and those cycle life charts doesn't look good for that very little extra range I probably won't need.. Thanks for a great review. Please do more lynx videos😊
Adam did you ever fix that suspension noise you were saying wasn't there when it was new?
I rode a lynx for the first time the other day a friend just got one and it was brand new like less than 10 miles on it and it had the same noise. I remember hearing someone say that the suspension is basically topping out, but I don't know. I'm curious if you resolved that or just got used to it or what.
Did you ever find out what was causing your suspension knocking?
You make using these look so easy
I like the new video format, thanks
Happy new year my guy ur dA man wrong wayyyyyyyyy
Very interesting to hear about shortcomings, other reviews only praise Lynx.
Love the new format, great video, excellent first review. Bad hair day?
I like the tail light, but glad for the after market halo head light :) Yay for being able to alter beeper's volume control, that doesn't change alarm volume!
Avg cruising speed here in the us is around 45mph - 55mph. I think its very reasonable to go as fast with headroom.
yeah this guy just doesn’t think it’s safe and there are a few good points he has but i always think it’s a good thing if a wheel can go really fast
Looks like this wheel with 2.7 kWh of 50S cells could potentially get about 40,000 miles before the cells degrade to 80%. But the auto industry keeps telling us we need cars with 60 - 100 kWh batteries... 😛 EUCs could be even more sustainable with motors that either have no magnets / fewer magnets / magnets that use alternatives to rare earth metals, and tires that use alternatives to rubber or that wear slower.
mine coming in feb...this was the review I been waiting for....the king of reviewers!!!!
Whooo! I’m glad you liked it! Thanks, I worked hard on it but I’m just really loving my job. Not a king! :D
What's the name of this EUC?
Suspension wise. How does this compare to the S22?
link for the after market front light?
It’s in the description :) www.hulaj.market :)
The $4,000 doesn't make me happy for this amazing wheel, I'm looking for a compromise.
Patton, lol "only" 3k
Good video! Happy holidays!
I wish battery size was stated correctly in adds, not a rounded up number.
Sides of stock pedals still looks rather sharp.
Impressive looking wheel.
My last complaint is I don't have it ha.
Adam, when are you coming back to Vancouver, BC? I would love to ride with you.
Thank you for having the strength to call out 🇵🇸. Great review
A death cult that executes or jails homosexuals and subordinates women as chattel?
He's pro palestine, damn, guess he watches a lot of pallywood. disappointed 👎
Always appreciate your videos! We refer to the suspension as "Hydraulic" suspension :)
BMS: it is not the BMS job to control charging. BMS protects by hard cut-off for outside of parameter conditions and levels the cells. Using the BMS to control charging is dangerous as a hard power cutoff means no power, no braking. The charging circuit controls the charging as it can control the amount of current rather than just on/off. The charger could monitor the BMS to find out individual cell voltages and be more protective of the battery pack.
Braking on a full pack: This is a solved problem many years ago (1970s or earlier) in early wind turbines for generating power. It is called a dump load. When the charging circuit (this includes the regen circuit) knows the battery is full, regen should be routed to a dump load. This is simple easy to do, one control line, one relay (solid state probably), one beefy resister. Stopping is more important than going. I understand that this circuitry would only be used for the first few minutes of a ride or on long downhill stretches but still important. In theory, the regen energy should only ever equal the energy already used from the battery.... except where downhill is involved.
all depends on bms, some bms have different wire for charging, so yes there is bms wich controlls charging as well
Really appreciate the euc beeps at 14:55 😂
The stock "laser light" are not even enough to drive at night. I recommand to add a real big front light. Even 3x that power is not half the power of a car or a motorcycle. Blinding people is a false problem. If you don't see them at 40 km/h at night you can hurt them.
Happy new year Adam🎉🎉
Thanks! Happy new year as well!
Thanks for the vid! For safety, I just wanted to point out that you're better off with blinking tail lights as drivers tend to go into autopilot when making familiar and boring commutes, during which time, their brains tend to register solid lights as static or stationary objects like stop lights, whereas blinking simulates motion and draws the brain's attention. This is why new automobiles have started using sequential and animated brake lights and turn signals nowadays.
Hello Adam, great video. I have a question. I'm on an 18XL to get to work. I also have to take public transport (train, bus) and the weather is unpredictable. But I would like a suspended wheel. What would you advise me based on your experiences? After that, continue your videos, it’s good work! 👌
Hi, can you please say me How many km does it travel on one charge? I am a Delivery driver and this information is very important to me. I need real experience and can you you give me advice for street tire please. Thank you
Can we get a video on your perfered settings?
Can we get a link for that light?
Sure lemme add it to the description
hulaj.market
@@mr_wrongway Thank you!
@@mr_wrongway does that light 24v too? does it the same as on patton cyclop?
23:09 actually there were quite a number of cases where the mudguards would be pushed to one side of the wheel for the patton and sherman s including my patton
What happened with your thoughts on the patton ? You sounded so into it in your original initial review video, but haven't heard anything about it from u since, which I found surprising considering your initial reaction to it