Bisque fire to 04 slow - cone 6 slow haven't changed anything yet now getting alot of pinholes - 1 year old electric med size Skutt kiln, I vacumm out after bisque so not to have particals can't figure out my problem. Thank you :)
I'm not sure the problem either. when i had pinhole problems it was because of my glaze recipe. I forget the exact solution. Did you get it figured out?
Question?? I am a new potter and I am using cone 5 and cone 6 stoneware clay and cone 5 & 6 glazes. Do I need to bisque fire at cone 5? I know the glaze firing needs to be at a cone 5 or 6. Appreciate your input. Thanks! TP
Hi Tosha. You usually bisque fire much lower - like cone 04. I usually bisque at cone 010 or 09 (somewhere in the 1600F range). If you bisque fire all the way up to your peak temp (cone 5 or 6 in your case), your glaze will have a tough time adhering to your pots because the clay body is already vitrified - meaning all the tiny holes in the clay body have already closed up - not porous anymore. Does that make sense? Hope that helps - and it will save you some electricity / fuel as well :) -mj
Thank you so much! Yes make a lot of sense. Appreciate your help. I have searched for this information and no one really speaks about this. All about loading and cone levels. Thanks again! 😊
Hello I. Getting a small high fire manual kiln with a sitter and curious about how long to set the timer. For bisque and glaze firings. Thanks so much for the video
Hi Mary. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of experience with kilns with sitters. I used one at the local community college but i don't have a ton of reps with that. If I'm not mistaken the time of firing will be dependent on when the kiln reaches the cone on the sitters peak temp - then it melts and makes the trigger/sitter auto shut off. I don't have the lingo down for this system becuase I dont use it but I believe the time of firing should be similar to my bisque firing time - somewhere in the 5 hour range if you're ramping up really fast and 8-10 hour range if yo're going really slow. I hope that helps. Sorry I don't have much more to offer there. Let me know how it goes!!! -mj
you should be able to add slip or underglaze decoration at the bisque stage but I wouldn't try to attach anything functionally. I use underglaze / colored slip on bisque all the time.
Thank you for your videos! I was wondering, how do I know if my pottery has been bisque fired if I dont have a temp gauge. I am doing more primitive type pottery with an adobe kiln I made and occasional pit fires. Also do you think it would be possible to glaze pottery in a wood fired brick kiln (currently trying to make one)? Thank you in advance!
Hey Higher perspective. Thanks for the question. Usually bisque firing is around cone 04 (1845 F) all the way down to cone 010 (1650 F). I think this is a lot higher than the traditional pit fire. Something called Quartz Inversion happens around the 1450 F mark as well - I heard that was important :) I don't think pit fires usually get hot enough for stoneware. When I think of pitfire i think of earthen ware clays - a different type of clay - more like terracotta. But perhaps there's another potter on this thread who can answer better than I can? You can wood fire and get all the way up to cone 10 (2400ish F) or even hotter. Some of the best potters do this. It takes a kiln especially made for this usually. Forgive me Higher Perspective if this is more basic than you're asking. I have a little experience with gas, soda and wood kilns but not much. I'm almost exclusively using electric in my garage. I also want to make am atmospheric kiln but not yet unfortunately :( Great question. Does that help? Sorry my knowledge is somewhat limited here.
@@OutpostPottery No that definitely helps! I just wanted to make sure it was possible to get that high of a temperature with a brick kiln. Also how would I be able to tell the difference between an earthenware clay and a stoneware clay? Would I just have to do trial and error with the raw clay i've collected?
Hi! I am a new potter and super confused about how to fire. I have a cone 6 porcelain slip I’ve made mugs out of moulds. Do I still have to bisque fire this first? And then proceed to glazing and firing to cone 6? Or do I fire it to cone 6 from the start? I know silly question but I don’t have support where I am from :/ appreciate your help!
No worries Catherine! You don't have to bisque fire first but I would. Some really amazing potters only do single firing, but i always bisque. It's easier on a number of levels, though it does add another step. Do you have a kiln (or have access to one)? -mj
@@OutpostPottery I will be investing in my own kiln very soon. I have gone to a local ceramic shop but my mugs were refused since they said they only do low fire firings. Especially when I said they are cone 6 porcelain wet slip clay. For me the steps won’t matter once I have my own kiln. But I’m afraid of any explosions in the kiln due to inaccurate firing temps. I think it’s best to bisque at 04 and then fire again to cone 6 or higher ? Thank you so much for your help!
@@catherinemontalvan4340 I bisque fire to cone 010. It's much lower but accomplishes everything i need in a bisque fire - makes it solid for me to handle, glaze, clean teh base, etc. It's a lot faster too since it doesn't go up near as high. Then I usually glaze fire to cone 5 or 6, much hotter. The main times i've seen explosions (rarely) are when students have really thick pieces in there or if the clay is still a little wet. As long as your walls hare super thick and your totally bone dry, you should be fine. I can't remember the last time i saw an explosion on my work to be honest. When i was starting out, i was under the impression that explosions happen much more frequently than they actually do. I would suggest you don't go too big. I got two smaller kilns for the price of one larger kiln and it has turned out to be a very good decision. Thanks for asking Catherine. Good luck!!! -mj
Hi, thank you for the video but I was after a little more information other than stacking. It was great you mentioned drying out the pottery at 200Deg but was that C or F and what temp should you get it up too and for how long? do you need to exclude the oxygen? Are there any shapes that are harder to fire than others?
Hi Tegan. 200 F was what I set my preheat to. When i preheat i usually allow 2 or 3 hours. It's actually longer than that because the clock wont start during the slow climb to the preheat temperature. The time you set only starts when it arrives at that desired temp - usually at least an hour to climb to that temp. No need to keep oxygen out of the kiln. in fact it's best if you leave the top cracked and plugs out while youre preheating. that moisture has to go somewhere and we want it out of that atmosphere inside the kiln. so go ahead and leave your kiln open a little bit. Plates are hard to fire... rather, they take a lot of shelf space. when you bisque fire you can stack them but be careful as they may warp or crack if you stack too many. I hope that helps Tegan! Don't give up - that's my best advice. Firing well is a skill worth investing in! - mj
Hey Michelle. I'm pretty sure you "fast glaze" which goes to 2167F cone 5 I think. I bought mine from American Ceramics in Fort Worth Texas and I beleive they advised me to put cones on the top middle and bottom shelves... then use the preset "fast glaze" button to run it. Then after it's finished and cooled down you can check out your cone packs to make sure top, middle and bottom are all firing evenly. Do you have test cones? Also, do you have a Bartlett controller - the box on the side of the kiln with all the buttons? Does yours look like this: www.theceramicshop.com/product/15013/bartlett-v6-cf-control-board/?gclid=CjwKCAjw_JuGBhBkEiwA1xmbRcrdj7jOSH3F9I7pcPSGt1jdncR9joFIvKZ47KiPlSdsbCT93pnLZRoCIsoQAvD_BwE?
Hi, what temperature would you bisque functionl ceramic ware, example cups ect? Usually I bisque to 900degrees Celsius. I was just wanting to know if ypi need to go slightly hire in a bisque firing when its functional ware.
Hey Bentley. I bisque fire to 1650 F, Cone 010 - which is 898 C... so we are almost identical in our bisque fire temps. most people i know bisque fire to cone 04 which is 1845 F / 1000 C. I only go to cone 010 because 1. it's faster and 2. saves energy/money but 3. still get's the vessels hard enough for me to handle them for glazing. No need to go higher in bisque but you do need to go the full peak temperature for the clay body you're using for your glaze firing. Every clay body (every type of clay) has a peak temperature. For me i use cone 5 or midrange clay from Armadillo Clay in Austin. It peak fires to 2167 - cone 5. That's the temp where all the little pores in your vessel get sealed up tight becuase of the heat. This is called vitrification. At the local community college here in town we used cone 10 clay. that means we had to take the kiln all the way up to cone 10 (around 2300 F / 1260 C). If you don't go all the way to peak temp for your clay body, your vessel may still have tiny pores in it (ie. its not yet vitrified). That might make it where it's not totally food safe or where it can't go in teh microwave. I'm not sure what else it means but that's my understanding of it. Hope that helps Bentley!
i don't know. my friend uses his wet saw for dividing up kiln furniture / the stilts the shelves sit on. Those are also hard and highly refractory. Are you just wanting half shelves instead of full. -mj
Do you have any beginner recommendations for a kiln? I don't see the need for a huge one that I would ever load as many pieces as you did in this one. (yet)
Hi Kim. Good question. I like my olympic kilns. they have been really reliable for me. skutt kilns are really good - may people swear by them. they might be the "best" or priciest brand. paragon are good too but they seem to be... well i don't really know a whole lot about them except a lot of folks around Texas have them because they have a base in Dallas. I would recommend not getting one at first and just honing your skills. But once you have a good handle on the basics of throwing a good form, I would go with one that's big enough to handle the production volume you want to be at (you did say "yet" above :), but does not require you to change your electric box. I was thinking about a kiln that was 2x as big as mine - it was a slightly better value but i would have to spend a lot of money changing my electric panel so i opted for 2 of the same size and kind. it has proven to be a good decision. Thanks for asking!
yes. in all the one's I've used can. I have some commercial ones but mostly use mixed slip or slop from my clay bucket with mason stains added in. Flux elements melt and i don't think there are much/any flux in underglazes. Please contribute here if you're a potter with additional insight! Hope that helps William -mj
Hello, I’m a new subbie...and hoping you can help as I am struggling to find an answer. I am using general purpose pottery clay, I know I can fire at cone 4 but for how long pls? I am just making small candle vases and little hanging ornaments. I have not looked at what glazes to use yet as so much to learn, thank you.
Hey beautiful findings. sorry for the really late reply. the short answer is you firing schedules vary. If you are just going as fast as you can up to "peak temperature" - the temp your clay needs to fire to vitrify - then you can probably get up there in about 4 or 5 hours. Then, at the fastest, you can just shut the whole kiln off and wait for it to cool down. That will take about 12 hours or so. alternatively you can slow climb or slow cool on either end and add more time. Does that make sense? Sorry if that's a confusion answer. Let me know what other questions you have! -mj
Congratulations! Sorry i am just now responding. i"d love to hear how it went! in general you want the vessel "bone dry" as in no water. you don't want any water in there when you fire. I can be a bit impatient sometimes so i often preheat my kiln and let greenware dry out in a 200 degree kiln before firing but this can be hard on your kiln elements so be careful. basically, you want it completely dry. if you scrape or sand the surface dust will come off (but don't do that because you'll be putting silica into your breathing air :). Happy Firing Elizabeth!
Hey John Luke. This is the one I bought a while back. It came with both a headset and lav mic but I mainly use the headset. The lav mic doesn't seem to be as high of quality. www.amazon.com/dp/B07GR2RZCS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_7GGcGb0Y3ES4V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Wireless Microphone System,KIMAFUN 2.4G Wireless Microphone Transmitter/Receiver Set with Headset /Lavalier Lapel Mics, Ideal for Teaching, Weddings,Presentations,School Play,G102 by KIMAFUN I like it. I also use a different lav mic sometimes plugged into a ZOOM H1 recorder and sometimes plugged directly into my iphone. But I love that the one i sent the link for above is wireless. Thanks for jumping in on this thread!
yes. there is clicking of the elements firing on teh way up. Sometimes you hear small clicks and pops as well. I usually hear it more on the way down though. Yes it's normal to have that as your temp goes up crazy high. So amazing we can have a controlled 2000 degree fire in our garage or home! -mj
Hey Laura. I bisque fire to either cone 010 or cone 04 which is roughly 1657F and 1845F respectively. I usually preheat for an hour or so then fast bisque which takes about 4.5 or 5 hours. Then I let it cool until it gets down to under 200 - usually at least 12 hours of waiting for it to cool down. Keep those questions coming :). I'm excited you're getting in kiln and learning to fire. Way to go! -mj
Most people bisque to cone 04 which i think is like 1845 F. But I bisque to cone 010 which i think is around 1650 F. I like bisquing to a lower temp because: 1. it's faster. 2. less energy. 3. it burns off all the organics 4. they say it goes through the Quartz inversion something are a lower temp than cone 010 so you're fine doing it. Honestly, I don't understand the quartz inversion but it sounded like it was important so I made sure teh temp was higher than the temp that would happen at. So i bisque to cone 010 - around 1650 F. Sorry - long answer to a short question ;)
@@OutpostPottery hi just letting you know you can bisque even lower I bisque at 800c at 1473f,this makes it even quicker and cheaper, hope this helps 🙂
I was going to ask you a question but when I came back to your page your answer was already there : The Fire turns dirt into stone that will last for 1000's of years. In pottery we call this bisque firing. In life we call it pain, challenge and tragedy. : )
Yes! Thanks Stella. Yes, there are so many parallels between life and pottery. I love when I get to find them. There hidden in plain sight when I have eyes to see them.
Hiya! Can u ask what your fast bisque firing schedule is??
God bless you
Thank you Elijah. God bless you too.
Thank You
You bet Stella! Thanks for contributing. Let me know if you have any questions -mj
Bisque fire to 04 slow - cone 6 slow haven't changed anything yet now getting alot of pinholes - 1 year old electric med size Skutt kiln, I vacumm out after bisque so not to have particals can't figure out my problem. Thank you :)
I'm not sure the problem either. when i had pinhole problems it was because of my glaze recipe. I forget the exact solution. Did you get it figured out?
This is so helpful thank you
Thank you! I'm glad.
Will this work if I purchased a smaller kiln
Thanks for sharing God Bless
You bet! It's loads of fun. Thanks for jumping on this thread
Question?? I am a new potter and I am using cone 5 and cone 6 stoneware clay and cone 5 & 6 glazes.
Do I need to bisque fire at cone 5? I know the glaze firing needs to be at a cone 5 or 6. Appreciate your input. Thanks! TP
Hi Tosha. You usually bisque fire much lower - like cone 04. I usually bisque at cone 010 or 09 (somewhere in the 1600F range). If you bisque fire all the way up to your peak temp (cone 5 or 6 in your case), your glaze will have a tough time adhering to your pots because the clay body is already vitrified - meaning all the tiny holes in the clay body have already closed up - not porous anymore. Does that make sense? Hope that helps - and it will save you some electricity / fuel as well :) -mj
Thank you so much! Yes make a lot of sense. Appreciate your help. I have searched for this information and no one really speaks about this. All about loading and cone levels. Thanks again! 😊
Hello I. Getting a small high fire manual kiln with a sitter and curious about how long to set the timer. For bisque and glaze firings. Thanks so much for the video
Hi Mary. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of experience with kilns with sitters. I used one at the local community college but i don't have a ton of reps with that. If I'm not mistaken the time of firing will be dependent on when the kiln reaches the cone on the sitters peak temp - then it melts and makes the trigger/sitter auto shut off. I don't have the lingo down for this system becuase I dont use it but I believe the time of firing should be similar to my bisque firing time - somewhere in the 5 hour range if you're ramping up really fast and 8-10 hour range if yo're going really slow. I hope that helps. Sorry I don't have much more to offer there. Let me know how it goes!!! -mj
If I have a bisque piece can I add clay as a decoration and fire to 04???
you should be able to add slip or underglaze decoration at the bisque stage but I wouldn't try to attach anything functionally. I use underglaze / colored slip on bisque all the time.
Thank you for your videos! I was wondering, how do I know if my pottery has been bisque fired if I dont have a temp gauge. I am doing more primitive type pottery with an adobe kiln I made and occasional pit fires. Also do you think it would be possible to glaze pottery in a wood fired brick kiln (currently trying to make one)? Thank you in advance!
Hey Higher perspective. Thanks for the question. Usually bisque firing is around cone 04 (1845 F) all the way down to cone 010 (1650 F). I think this is a lot higher than the traditional pit fire. Something called Quartz Inversion happens around the 1450 F mark as well - I heard that was important :)
I don't think pit fires usually get hot enough for stoneware. When I think of pitfire i think of earthen ware clays - a different type of clay - more like terracotta. But perhaps there's another potter on this thread who can answer better than I can?
You can wood fire and get all the way up to cone 10 (2400ish F) or even hotter. Some of the best potters do this. It takes a kiln especially made for this usually. Forgive me Higher Perspective if this is more basic than you're asking. I have a little experience with gas, soda and wood kilns but not much. I'm almost exclusively using electric in my garage. I also want to make am atmospheric kiln but not yet unfortunately :(
Great question. Does that help? Sorry my knowledge is somewhat limited here.
@@OutpostPottery No that definitely helps! I just wanted to make sure it was possible to get that high of a temperature with a brick kiln. Also how would I be able to tell the difference between an earthenware clay and a stoneware clay? Would I just have to do trial and error with the raw clay i've collected?
I guess Im quite randomly asking but does anybody know of a good site to watch new movies online ?
Hi!
I am a new potter and super confused about how to fire.
I have a cone 6 porcelain slip I’ve made mugs out of moulds.
Do I still have to bisque fire this first? And then proceed to glazing and firing to cone 6?
Or do I fire it to cone 6 from the start?
I know silly question but I don’t have support where I am from :/ appreciate your help!
No worries Catherine! You don't have to bisque fire first but I would. Some really amazing potters only do single firing, but i always bisque. It's easier on a number of levels, though it does add another step. Do you have a kiln (or have access to one)? -mj
@@OutpostPottery I will be investing in my own kiln very soon. I have gone to a local ceramic shop but my mugs were refused since they said they only do low fire firings. Especially when I said they are cone 6 porcelain wet slip clay.
For me the steps won’t matter once I have my own kiln. But I’m afraid of any explosions in the kiln due to inaccurate firing temps.
I think it’s best to bisque at 04 and then fire again to cone 6 or higher ?
Thank you so much for your help!
@@catherinemontalvan4340 I bisque fire to cone 010. It's much lower but accomplishes everything i need in a bisque fire - makes it solid for me to handle, glaze, clean teh base, etc. It's a lot faster too since it doesn't go up near as high. Then I usually glaze fire to cone 5 or 6, much hotter. The main times i've seen explosions (rarely) are when students have really thick pieces in there or if the clay is still a little wet. As long as your walls hare super thick and your totally bone dry, you should be fine. I can't remember the last time i saw an explosion on my work to be honest. When i was starting out, i was under the impression that explosions happen much more frequently than they actually do. I would suggest you don't go too big. I got two smaller kilns for the price of one larger kiln and it has turned out to be a very good decision. Thanks for asking Catherine. Good luck!!! -mj
@@OutpostPottery thank you. So helpful! Appreciate it
@@catherinemontalvan4340 you bet! I'm happy to help
Hi, thank you for the video but I was after a little more information other than stacking. It was great you mentioned drying out the pottery at 200Deg but was that C or F and what temp should you get it up too and for how long? do you need to exclude the oxygen? Are there any shapes that are harder to fire than others?
Hi Tegan. 200 F was what I set my preheat to. When i preheat i usually allow 2 or 3 hours. It's actually longer than that because the clock wont start during the slow climb to the preheat temperature. The time you set only starts when it arrives at that desired temp - usually at least an hour to climb to that temp. No need to keep oxygen out of the kiln. in fact it's best if you leave the top cracked and plugs out while youre preheating. that moisture has to go somewhere and we want it out of that atmosphere inside the kiln. so go ahead and leave your kiln open a little bit. Plates are hard to fire... rather, they take a lot of shelf space. when you bisque fire you can stack them but be careful as they may warp or crack if you stack too many. I hope that helps Tegan! Don't give up - that's my best advice. Firing well is a skill worth investing in! - mj
I have just set up my olympic kiln for the first time. The manual said to fire for the first time empty. Do you know what temp I am supposed to do?
Hey Michelle. I'm pretty sure you "fast glaze" which goes to 2167F cone 5 I think. I bought mine from American Ceramics in Fort Worth Texas and I beleive they advised me to put cones on the top middle and bottom shelves... then use the preset "fast glaze" button to run it. Then after it's finished and cooled down you can check out your cone packs to make sure top, middle and bottom are all firing evenly. Do you have test cones? Also, do you have a Bartlett controller - the box on the side of the kiln with all the buttons? Does yours look like this: www.theceramicshop.com/product/15013/bartlett-v6-cf-control-board/?gclid=CjwKCAjw_JuGBhBkEiwA1xmbRcrdj7jOSH3F9I7pcPSGt1jdncR9joFIvKZ47KiPlSdsbCT93pnLZRoCIsoQAvD_BwE?
Hi, what temperature would you bisque functionl ceramic ware, example cups ect? Usually I bisque to 900degrees Celsius.
I was just wanting to know if ypi need to go slightly hire in a bisque firing when its functional ware.
Hey Bentley. I bisque fire to 1650 F, Cone 010 - which is 898 C... so we are almost identical in our bisque fire temps. most people i know bisque fire to cone 04 which is 1845 F / 1000 C. I only go to cone 010 because 1. it's faster and 2. saves energy/money but 3. still get's the vessels hard enough for me to handle them for glazing.
No need to go higher in bisque but you do need to go the full peak temperature for the clay body you're using for your glaze firing. Every clay body (every type of clay) has a peak temperature. For me i use cone 5 or midrange clay from Armadillo Clay in Austin. It peak fires to 2167 - cone 5. That's the temp where all the little pores in your vessel get sealed up tight becuase of the heat. This is called vitrification. At the local community college here in town we used cone 10 clay. that means we had to take the kiln all the way up to cone 10 (around 2300 F / 1260 C).
If you don't go all the way to peak temp for your clay body, your vessel may still have tiny pores in it (ie. its not yet vitrified). That might make it where it's not totally food safe or where it can't go in teh microwave. I'm not sure what else it means but that's my understanding of it. Hope that helps Bentley!
@@OutpostPottery Thank you for the feedback, found it most helpful
Can I wet saw a kiln shelf in 1/2?
i don't know. my friend uses his wet saw for dividing up kiln furniture / the stilts the shelves sit on. Those are also hard and highly refractory. Are you just wanting half shelves instead of full. -mj
Do you have any beginner recommendations for a kiln? I don't see the need for a huge one that I would ever load as many pieces as you did in this one. (yet)
Hi Kim. Good question. I like my olympic kilns. they have been really reliable for me. skutt kilns are really good - may people swear by them. they might be the "best" or priciest brand. paragon are good too but they seem to be... well i don't really know a whole lot about them except a lot of folks around Texas have them because they have a base in Dallas. I would recommend not getting one at first and just honing your skills. But once you have a good handle on the basics of throwing a good form, I would go with one that's big enough to handle the production volume you want to be at (you did say "yet" above :), but does not require you to change your electric box. I was thinking about a kiln that was 2x as big as mine - it was a slightly better value but i would have to spend a lot of money changing my electric panel so i opted for 2 of the same size and kind. it has proven to be a good decision. Thanks for asking!
Can underglazed items touch others?
yes. in all the one's I've used can. I have some commercial ones but mostly use mixed slip or slop from my clay bucket with mason stains added in. Flux elements melt and i don't think there are much/any flux in underglazes. Please contribute here if you're a potter with additional insight! Hope that helps William -mj
Hello, I’m a new subbie...and hoping you can help as I am struggling to find an answer. I am using general purpose pottery clay, I know I can fire at cone 4 but for how long pls? I am just making small candle vases and little hanging ornaments. I have not looked at what glazes to use yet as so much to learn, thank you.
Hey beautiful findings. sorry for the really late reply. the short answer is you firing schedules vary. If you are just going as fast as you can up to "peak temperature" - the temp your clay needs to fire to vitrify - then you can probably get up there in about 4 or 5 hours. Then, at the fastest, you can just shut the whole kiln off and wait for it to cool down. That will take about 12 hours or so. alternatively you can slow climb or slow cool on either end and add more time. Does that make sense? Sorry if that's a confusion answer. Let me know what other questions you have! -mj
How long do I need my greenware to dry before I fire it? This is my first greenware fire...thx
Congratulations! Sorry i am just now responding. i"d love to hear how it went!
in general you want the vessel "bone dry" as in no water. you don't want any water in there when you fire.
I can be a bit impatient sometimes so i often preheat my kiln and let greenware dry out in a 200 degree kiln before firing but this can be hard on your kiln elements so be careful.
basically, you want it completely dry. if you scrape or sand the surface dust will come off (but don't do that because you'll be putting silica into your breathing air :). Happy Firing Elizabeth!
Hey! Just found your channel and I'm loving it. Wondering which headset mic you are using if you dont mind sharing!
Hey John Luke. This is the one I bought a while back. It came with both a headset and lav mic but I mainly use the headset. The lav mic doesn't seem to be as high of quality.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07GR2RZCS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_7GGcGb0Y3ES4V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Wireless Microphone System,KIMAFUN 2.4G Wireless Microphone Transmitter/Receiver Set with Headset /Lavalier Lapel Mics, Ideal for Teaching, Weddings,Presentations,School Play,G102
by KIMAFUN
I like it. I also use a different lav mic sometimes plugged into a ZOOM H1 recorder and sometimes plugged directly into my iphone. But I love that the one i sent the link for above is wireless.
Thanks for jumping in on this thread!
@@OutpostPottery thanks for the info!
Small popping sounds normal once you go to high temp?
yes. there is clicking of the elements firing on teh way up. Sometimes you hear small clicks and pops as well. I usually hear it more on the way down though. Yes it's normal to have that as your temp goes up crazy high. So amazing we can have a controlled 2000 degree fire in our garage or home! -mj
How long do you keep them in and at what temp??
Hey Laura. I bisque fire to either cone 010 or cone 04 which is roughly 1657F and 1845F respectively. I usually preheat for an hour or so then fast bisque which takes about 4.5 or 5 hours. Then I let it cool until it gets down to under 200 - usually at least 12 hours of waiting for it to cool down. Keep those questions coming :). I'm excited you're getting in kiln and learning to fire. Way to go! -mj
Hi was wondering what temperature you biscuit fire at ?
Most people bisque to cone 04 which i think is like 1845 F. But I bisque to cone 010 which i think is around 1650 F. I like bisquing to a lower temp because: 1. it's faster. 2. less energy. 3. it burns off all the organics 4. they say it goes through the Quartz inversion something are a lower temp than cone 010 so you're fine doing it. Honestly, I don't understand the quartz inversion but it sounded like it was important so I made sure teh temp was higher than the temp that would happen at. So i bisque to cone 010 - around 1650 F. Sorry - long answer to a short question ;)
@@OutpostPottery hi just letting you know you can bisque even lower I bisque at 800c at 1473f,this makes it even quicker and cheaper, hope this helps 🙂
I was going to ask you a question but when I came back to your page your answer was already there : The Fire turns dirt into stone that will last for 1000's of years. In pottery we call this bisque firing. In life we call it pain, challenge and tragedy. : )
Yes! Thanks Stella. Yes, there are so many parallels between life and pottery. I love when I get to find them. There hidden in plain sight when I have eyes to see them.
Thanks I learnt alot🙏🏼
My pleasure