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I'm so glad you enjoy my content Josh! I'd love to ask you more questions about what makes mine a better fit for you than others. Would you be up for more dialog via my website / email? Goal 1 - throw consistently good mugs. Thanks for getting the profile ribs bundle! Those are key for consistency whenever you work for a huge pottery or just getting started with mugs. Have you got a wheel already? Do you have a kiln or a place to fire? What is your home studio area like? Goal 2 - custom stamps and 3d printing. Honestly, this area is as big as pottery - super useful but there is also a huge learning curve that works a different brain muscle than getting good at pottery. If you watched the stamps videos of mine then you know there is 2D design, 3d design, then the printing of part of making the stamps. The printing part has been the hardest of the 3 for me. amzn.to/4904qPD - this is the printer to get right now if you're getting started. I hear it's the best out there. I have have 10 Ender 3 v2 printers that I use for everything. They are work horses that I know how to fix when they break and I have to do that regularly. So my whole micro-factory is built on these. I'm happy to be your stamps supplier until you get that worked out. Shoot me an email on my website and we'll work something out. I haven't really advertised custom work on my website at all - only done stuff for friends, but I'm happy to work with you on that. Have fun! Feel free to shoot me any other questions. -mj

Thank you MJ for your reply. Very helpful. I would be very happy to talk to you about your channel. I will contact you on your website.

Hey. Great question. It was mainly so i didn't have to spend $20 per pottery bat. This was a cheap way to get that cost down to $0.39 per bat - use cheap bathroom tiles instead of standard pottery bats. Bats are used when you don't want to pick the vessel up off the wheelhead when it's still wet. You will inevitably mar the surface at some level when you do that so people use bats as a way to transfer the piece off the wheel so you can keep working on your next piece. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other quetions! -mj

Thank you! I'm glad you like it. Thanks for tuning in Lisa! -mj

Sorry to hear that Erica. Centering can be really challenging!

I can either use a sponge on a stick to clean out the standing water + small bits of clay or i can just put more water in there, swish it around, then pour everything out. They both work about the same but i often go for the water method because it's a bit faster. That's why i do it. I hope that helps! -mj

Hi Marty. I will print some and put them on my website for sale. the diameter of the cutouts is 3 1/3" but when my clay is fired it shrinks down to around 3". I'm printing them cutouts now. Be looking for them on the website in the next few days. Thanks for your interest!

I haven't tested that one but just saw online. it looks good!

yay! You won't regret that purchase. He is the best!

number 1 pottery plaster

I think they're even better now! I hope you enjoy them! Thanks Janet. -mj

I'm sorry Mary. I never posted them. I'm printing some right now and will try to create an item on my website in the next few days. check out outpostpottery.com in the near future.

Hey Kuppy. I don't do custom shapes but my course can teach you how to do them! check it out at slipcastingbasics.com

i don't keep it there all the time. just when i'm adjusting the speed

shimpo i think. i think a company called Nidec bought them... out of Taiwan.

Hey Linda. Yes I have! I made some out of plaster and more recently i've made them out of just bisqued stoneware. The bisqued stoneware doesn't absorb near as much water but it's much stronger. one of the perks of the tile spinner we sell is that you can make your own bats out of stoneware.

Hi Jeff. I think i understand the problem but I'm not sure. Are you trying to take the form off the tile immediately? while it's still wet? If that's your goal, you may be better off throwing off the wheelhead. I would wait until your form is leather hard before you try to wire it off. I usually wait until I can't see any fingerprints when i touch the wall. Sorry you're frustrated. Shoot me any questions you have and I'll try to reply here. If you don't here from me here you can always get me on my webiste. Thanks for asking!

youre bringing me back to the 80s Tony!👍🏼

you're right. Thanks!

It doesn't whine but it is not going very fast at all. It's definitely a toy with a toy-size motor :)

Let me know if you try it!

@ she died 25 years ago so it is long gone.

thanks for sharing!

Hi Mina. goodness there are so many settings. i'm printing with a .6mm nozzle. 15% infill though that doesn't matter much with stamps. and about 100 other settings that I've honed over the years. what machine are you printing with. i definitely prefere prusa's slicer over cura. shoot me specific questions and I'll try to help you out. Good luck!

it is but it's a great way to get a lot of reps in. when covid hit i started throwing small communion cups and i think that experience of thorwing 100s of small vessels really helped my throwing at the time. it's really not that hard once you get the large hump centered (or centered at the top). Centering is the hardest part

I usually use the island method as well. and have screwed up my share of batches. The worst part is ruining the pitchers and plastic ware i'm using in hte process!

Let the plaster set up and then it should come right out. I use a flexible plastic bucket.

thanks! I agree they are great!

You'd think but I've never had an issue. Cool fact is that you don't actually have to have the tile spinner at all if you have a clay patty below the tile. My friend who started Black Oak Art showed me the trick. They always throw off clay paddies but with wooden squares instead of tiles. I found teh wood warped and the tiles gripped the clay better. Give it a try and see what you think. if you have some good clay below it, it is unlikely to move on you.

Glad it was helpful!

check out my video on specific gravity. it explains it better. there's not a set answer here. i have some glazes that produce a totally different effect based on the amount of water i put in - almost like i have different glazes.

I agree! It's a great wheel to start with as your learning to throw. I'm with you!

@@OutpostPottery Absolutely. I learned to throw when I was 10-12 and then I took an almost 30 year hiatus, so essentially learned it all again. I consistently recommend it to ppl on Reddit.

i often don't if it's straight from the bag. i should but i've never had a problem with airbubble straight from the bag.

Wow Rose!!! Which stamps are you interested in? Regarding temp - i usually fire these to cone cone 06. They would be stronger if i fired them to cone 5 but it can darken the color a bit and I wnat them bright white. no glaze on these when i fire them

🤷🏽 - they may really like it. I haven't been doing it enough lately to try with my eyes closed. I'd like to try now that you mention it.

Hey Mentz. centripetal force will make it want to flare out. Collaring it in keeps things going up rather than veering out.

sorry. no pug mill. i'm just saying that this method is better than a pug mill (dan jauh lebih murah)!

When wedged up and down, the air pocket disappears.

every once in a while i'll find a small airbubble in my wall. When i do, i stop the wheel. get the needle tool out. pop the bubble and keep on going. the clay is much more forgiving that we give it credit for. but this happens VERY rarely.

you bet

Preheating is usually to make sure all the moisture is out of your clay. I usually do leave the lid cracked to allow for that moisture to escape. If things are already bone dry i dont usually preheat but that isnt' often. be careful about putting things that are too wet - closer to greenware than bone dry - into your kiln becasue it can be taxing on your elements. That being said, i do it sometimes when i'm in a hurry. I hope that helps! Have fun. -mj

Sometimes it does take that long. Generally i open the kiln about 24 hours later after i start the fire. waiting longer is better. you can crack the lid at 400 if you like but patience is better and waiting for it to cool all the way down will yield better results. you will hear your wares "ping" as the glaze cracks if you take the pieces out too early - when the kiln is still too hot. The best is to wait till it gets all the way down to room temp but who has that kind of patience! :)