Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to change mine tomorrow. Your advice, especially regarding the 39mm socket saved me a great deal of time and headache. Appreciate the video!
Great video buddy. I've been looking for hours to try to find front end bearing assembly removal I can only find rear or Tacoma like you said. Great video super informative and I'm happy you made it.
Thanks a ton for this video man. Saved me $1,300. Toyota wanted $1,800 to do both front hubs and I did them myself for $500. The hubs would NOT let go of the axles though. Had to pick up a 7 ton puller and that barely got them apart.
Yeah, some times them axle shafts get frozen in place. I've used my slide hammer with the hub connector once on a pt cruiser of all things, lol. Glad I helped you save money
I just did the same job on my 2010. I went down to O'reilly's to get the axle nut socket and their computer said it was a 38mm 6-point socket. They were WRONG!!! I went to the forums, they said 12-point 39mm socket, and they were CORRECT!!! lol
Thanks for the video. It was just what I was looking for. I just bought a 2008 2WD Tundra and I have to replace the front passenger side. My hub is made a little different (No splines inside as it is 2wd and no axle to work around.) but otherwise it looks like your video will work for mine as well. Thanks again.
@@TheTl33 Hi. I did my front one on (passenger side) my 2wd and this video works well for it. You just don't have the front axle shaft to work around and no splines in the center of your hub. Otherwise it worked great.
Thank you for sharing that. This is exactly what I was wanting from my video's, to have any viewer chip in on extra info on the topic the video is on. Also, I get to learn from the viewers, which is a plus😉
Thank you and yeah, I watch our people's video's to see what they may leave out because as a mechanic I know I would leave things out because I would forget that some people are totally new to working on cars and trucks. I'm sure if I was to go back and redo this video i would have more to add to it, lol
@@CarManiac125: My 2010 tundra front end been making rattle vibration, it felt like i'm running over side of shoulder warning track on the highway. Is there any advise or possible cause doing that? Thanks for the advise in advance.
What’s your thoughts on not replacing the backing plate? Mine is ate to you know what in rust. I don’t know if it’s worth another 75-100 to replace it.
The only thing that will happen is some brake fade due to water getting in your rotors directly. So I guess the question is, how often does the truck see water bad enough to splash em. I've left them off vehicles before and had no problems.
First, thanks for taking the time to make this video. Only question is: how far do you run that castle nut/axle nut on there and how tight do you get it??? Count the exposed threads before removal maybe? Thanks in advance.
Hmmm, I'm not sure actually. I never got to really work on Toyota's much when I was out there in the field. That of course says a lot if you ask me. Its possibly the same but with a few bolt differences. If I ain't mistaken the older model had a 6 lug bolt pattern and I did a quick parts lookup and i seems that those still require the use of either a special tool or arbor press. I do have my old bearing and was planning on showing how to press new ones in a hub but it may not be the same as the older models. Sorry bout that but if I had one I could mess with I would definitely do a video for it
Hey I forgot the beers... So I sub and liked 💪🍻... Question what do you think of tapered bearing vs the ball ? Cause I am thinking of the tapered or just get me the moog ball. Tapered for better results if its the same results than I'll go with Moog. Thanks I also have a Tundra 08
I'll just say this, when I can do so, I buy moog hands down. Moog parts are by for the best engineered parts I have ever dealt with. A good example i have are the ball joints on my old ford truck. They really seem to take a beating. Not saying they cant be broken just saying I break less of them, lol. I can only imagine their other products are of same quality
@@CarManiac125 yeah I know Moog too but then heard of tapered and was like hmmmmmm. But guess your right MOOG it is... I dont hear any noise but I think its time my baby gets a treat 😂. Hey i know at home can keeps us busy sometimes is good 👍💪. Cant wait fpr the videos thanks again..
Well, I personally didn't go through the trouble of looking for a torque wrench that goes that high but it calls for 249 ft lbs of torque. I just maxed out mine at 150 ft lbs but I use blue tread locker and I also used my breaker bar to give it one more good turn, lol. I personally think the high torque is absolutely uncalled for but that's my opinion
Our FJ Cruiser is 175 ft lbs. My torque wrench only went up to 150 as well, so I got a loaner from Auto Zone, which btw, they also rent out those giant sockets for axles, all for free as long as you bring it back!
You can use a pipe extension on your 150lb torque wrench to get to 250. There is a simple formula for determining the correct length of the extension which you can find with google.
I've only heard hubs or wheel bearings make the air plane sound I was hearing and it got louder as I increased speed. CV axles I've only heard make clicking or in extreme cases knocking. More pronounced when turning
What symptoms would lead you to replace the front hub bearing assembly? The bolt for backing off the rotor is 8mm 1.25 thread pitch (fine). I've used it several times. I keep a 3 inch one in my toolbox.
Thanks for the info on the bolt needed to remove the rotor. I had that airplane sound that picked up with speed. It's all better now but I'm think I may have to do the rear axle ones soon. I'm starting to hear that sound in the rear. Or I'm just imagining things, lol
@@CarManiac125 I just replaced my front calipers in October because one of the pistons in the passenger side seized. I replaced the front set just to be safe. When I pulled up to the mailbox on Friday, I smelled burnt brakes. Yup, rear driver side seized completely. Now I'm doing the rear calipers. I guess they wear out in unison. I was thinking about doing the hub while it's off, but I do not hear that whurring sound.
Honestly anymore I replace things as they go but if I usually do them in pair or set. Like ball joints, u-joints, brakes is a given. My grandfather used to preach to us about that kinda stuff and it just stuck
Between the assembly and dust shield. Another words, put the o-ring on your hub assembly and push her in with your dust shield in place of course, lol. Make sure you have them alignment marks lined up with them holes on the knuckle also
@@CarManiac125 I found them on Amazon for 222$ for both... from drive tech america. Then theres another one from dorman 150$ for each. I might go with dorman. What you think?
Those were the dorman bearings I used. I hear people say some bad things about dorman but I haven't seen anything really bad at all with their products. The one and only thing I had bad from them was the intake kit I bought for my ford f150. They had the wrong size o-ring for the thermostat housing.
@@CarManiac125 awesome you're a life saver. Btw you replaced them because you had the womb womb womb sound or the vuv vuv vuv sound. That's what mine sounds like and it gets worse when I turn. But I'm gunna give these a shot
Well mind didn't get worse when I turned but me being trained as a mechanic in the past I guess I can hear trouble before it gets that bad, lol. Check your tires out too. Look to see if they are chopped, cupped or feathered. You may have more than that going on. I probably should have showed that stuff in my vid but then it woulda been way longer than I really wanted it, lol
I'm lazy too brotha hahahah. also is it really that easy to do. holy shit? my back plates are rotted off to no end. I guess the hardest part for me is what to torque stuff too. wish there was a guide or book.
I worked around some old techs and I will tell you this, I can actually count the number of times I seen them use a torque wrench, lol. Every one of them times was on an engine and nothing else.
I actually picked that hub assembly up at autozone. I was surprised to see they even had it. $500 for one hub replacement? Wow, I would thought it to be slightly cheaper than that but I guess I've been away from the business that long
![[Limbus Company - PV] Chapter.7 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VUpkXPkvoxU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to change mine tomorrow. Your advice, especially regarding the 39mm socket saved me a great deal of time and headache. Appreciate the video!
I’m working on mine tomorrow! It’s been making sound for almost 2 months and is the left side. Thanks for your time uploading the video.
Nice video! About to work on my tundra, replacing the hub assembly, uca, ball joints and rotars. Nice informative video!
Thanks for the instruction.
Sound effects were the most annoying thing I’ve ever experienced.
Great video buddy. I've been looking for hours to try to find front end bearing assembly removal I can only find rear or Tacoma like you said. Great video super informative and I'm happy you made it.
Thank you for watching and this comment actually made my bad day just disappear. Thanks again
Thanks a ton for this video man. Saved me $1,300. Toyota wanted $1,800 to do both front hubs and I did them myself for $500. The hubs would NOT let go of the axles though. Had to pick up a 7 ton puller and that barely got them apart.
Yeah, some times them axle shafts get frozen in place. I've used my slide hammer with the hub connector once on a pt cruiser of all things, lol. Glad I helped you save money
@@CarManiac125 so the speed sensor doesn’t have to be pull out ?
You do a video for replacing the rear bearings. Thanks for this video. Pretty straight forward.
This is almost identical to UK Toyota Hilux, a great video, thanks from UK
Yeah, I had someone else comment the same thing. It's kind of a downer being here in the states cause I miss out on the other makes and models
@@CarManiac125 there's not a lot of UK vids, so it's great to see any from over there, as well as our Aussie and South African truck enthusiasts.
I just did the same job on my 2010. I went down to O'reilly's to get the axle nut socket and their computer said it was a 38mm 6-point socket. They were WRONG!!! I went to the forums, they said 12-point 39mm socket, and they were CORRECT!!! lol
Good point about the socket!! I learned the same thing!!
Thanks for the video. It was just what I was looking for. I just bought a 2008 2WD Tundra and I have to replace the front passenger side. My hub is made a little different (No splines inside as it is 2wd and no axle to work around.) but otherwise it looks like your video will work for mine as well. Thanks again.
I was just about to ask if it should be the same for 2wd. Need to replace my rear ones
Nope, and the rear ones require pulling the axle shafts out by the way
@@TheTl33 Hi. I did my front one on (passenger side) my 2wd and this video works well for it. You just don't have the front axle shaft to work around and no splines in the center of your hub. Otherwise it worked great.
Thank you for sharing that. This is exactly what I was wanting from my video's, to have any viewer chip in on extra info on the topic the video is on. Also, I get to learn from the viewers, which is a plus😉
Thanks for your great video and details. Typical mechanic might find it boring but trust me this video taught me a lot. Thanks again budd
Thank you and yeah, I watch our people's video's to see what they may leave out because as a mechanic I know I would leave things out because I would forget that some people are totally new to working on cars and trucks. I'm sure if I was to go back and redo this video i would have more to add to it, lol
@@CarManiac125: My 2010 tundra front end been making rattle vibration, it felt like i'm running over side of shoulder warning track on the highway. Is there any advise or possible cause doing that? Thanks for the advise in advance.
If its 4wd like mine is you may need to check out your front CV axles. Make sure your tires dont have uneven wear pattern
Thank you for sharing. I am glad they didn't use salt in Australia .🇦🇺👍
Lmao, yeah salt sucks
How has that Dorman hub assembly held up?
Excellent video you really simplified it
Good job the way you do
A 1 9/16 12pt socket will work as well. 13 bucks at Orschelns
What’s your thoughts on not replacing the backing plate? Mine is ate to you know what in rust. I don’t know if it’s worth another 75-100 to replace it.
The only thing that will happen is some brake fade due to water getting in your rotors directly. So I guess the question is, how often does the truck see water bad enough to splash em. I've left them off vehicles before and had no problems.
Great video.... Thanks for taking the time to do it. I got this!
This video includes
(2007-2019-or newer)👍🏻
LX570,
Land Cruiser,
Sequoia
and Tundra
Work and the Bearing
Thank you
Great video amigo 100% helpfull. Save the day
Good Job Brother, helped me understand alot Thanks
Thanks! Great video Car Maniac125!!!
good vid, BTW 1.5" socket is the same as a 39mm socket, just saying
Thanks for this vid. Very informational. I have a 2007 2wd tundra. Do they have the same front hub assembly? Thanks
Good question, I never worked on a 2 wheel drive tundra, lol
Thx for the info 39mm 12point good to know👍cool vid bruh🤙
First, thanks for taking the time to make this video. Only question is: how far do you run that castle nut/axle nut on there and how tight do you get it??? Count the exposed threads before removal maybe?
Thanks in advance.
Thank you for the video. Is this the same process for an earlier version 2006Tundra 4 x 4?
Hmmm, I'm not sure actually. I never got to really work on Toyota's much when I was out there in the field. That of course says a lot if you ask me. Its possibly the same but with a few bolt differences. If I ain't mistaken the older model had a 6 lug bolt pattern and I did a quick parts lookup and i seems that those still require the use of either a special tool or arbor press. I do have my old bearing and was planning on showing how to press new ones in a hub but it may not be the same as the older models. Sorry bout that but if I had one I could mess with I would definitely do a video for it
No , the 2001-2006 hub and bearing have to be pressed apart. It doesn't have the option to unbolt as a unit like the newer ones do.
ATG made & designed Axel Nut to be 39mm on Tundra & 35mm on Tacoma.
Notes: a 36mm socket will work on Tacoma. Both are 12 points 1/2"
Hey I forgot the beers... So I sub and liked 💪🍻...
Question what do you think of tapered bearing vs the ball ? Cause I am thinking of the tapered or just get me the moog ball. Tapered for better results if its the same results than I'll go with Moog. Thanks I also have a Tundra 08
I'll just say this, when I can do so, I buy moog hands down. Moog parts are by for the best engineered parts I have ever dealt with. A good example i have are the ball joints on my old ford truck. They really seem to take a beating. Not saying they cant be broken just saying I break less of them, lol. I can only imagine their other products are of same quality
Also thanks for the sub. I know I haven't posted a video in awhile but I got some coming soon hopefully. Been crazy at home lately, lol
@@CarManiac125 yeah I know Moog too but then heard of tapered and was like hmmmmmm. But guess your right MOOG it is... I dont hear any noise but I think its time my baby gets a treat 😂. Hey i know at home can keeps us busy sometimes is good 👍💪. Cant wait fpr the videos thanks again..
Awesome video. Thanks!
what is the torque setting for the axle nut? Thanks
Well, I personally didn't go through the trouble of looking for a torque wrench that goes that high but it calls for 249 ft lbs of torque. I just maxed out mine at 150 ft lbs but I use blue tread locker and I also used my breaker bar to give it one more good turn, lol. I personally think the high torque is absolutely uncalled for but that's my opinion
Our FJ Cruiser is 175 ft lbs. My torque wrench only went up to 150 as well, so I got a loaner from Auto Zone, which btw, they also rent out those giant sockets for axles, all for free as long as you bring it back!
You can use a pipe extension on your 150lb torque wrench to get to 250. There is a simple formula for determining the correct length of the extension which you can find with google.
Thanks for sharing, I'll have to look into that.
Hi , great video... how did you know it was the hub assembly to replace and not the cv axle ?
Thx
I've only heard hubs or wheel bearings make the air plane sound I was hearing and it got louder as I increased speed. CV axles I've only heard make clicking or in extreme cases knocking. More pronounced when turning
What symptoms would lead you to replace the front hub bearing assembly?
The bolt for backing off the rotor is 8mm 1.25 thread pitch (fine). I've used it several times. I keep a 3 inch one in my toolbox.
Thanks for the info on the bolt needed to remove the rotor. I had that airplane sound that picked up with speed. It's all better now but I'm think I may have to do the rear axle ones soon. I'm starting to hear that sound in the rear. Or I'm just imagining things, lol
@@CarManiac125 I just replaced my front calipers in October because one of the pistons in the passenger side seized. I replaced the front set just to be safe. When I pulled up to the mailbox on Friday, I smelled burnt brakes. Yup, rear driver side seized completely. Now I'm doing the rear calipers. I guess they wear out in unison. I was thinking about doing the hub while it's off, but I do not hear that whurring sound.
Honestly anymore I replace things as they go but if I usually do them in pair or set. Like ball joints, u-joints, brakes is a given. My grandfather used to preach to us about that kinda stuff and it just stuck
Hey btw did that thin o ring ge behind the dust shield? Or between the assembly and the dust shield
Between the assembly and dust shield. Another words, put the o-ring on your hub assembly and push her in with your dust shield in place of course, lol. Make sure you have them alignment marks lined up with them holes on the knuckle also
@@CarManiac125 I found them on Amazon for 222$ for both... from drive tech america. Then theres another one from dorman 150$ for each. I might go with dorman. What you think?
Those were the dorman bearings I used. I hear people say some bad things about dorman but I haven't seen anything really bad at all with their products. The one and only thing I had bad from them was the intake kit I bought for my ford f150. They had the wrong size o-ring for the thermostat housing.
@@CarManiac125 awesome you're a life saver. Btw you replaced them because you had the womb womb womb sound or the vuv vuv vuv sound. That's what mine sounds like and it gets worse when I turn. But I'm gunna give these a shot
Well mind didn't get worse when I turned but me being trained as a mechanic in the past I guess I can hear trouble before it gets that bad, lol. Check your tires out too. Look to see if they are chopped, cupped or feathered. You may have more than that going on. I probably should have showed that stuff in my vid but then it woulda been way longer than I really wanted it, lol
I'm lazy too brotha hahahah. also is it really that easy to do. holy shit? my back plates are rotted off to no end. I guess the hardest part for me is what to torque stuff too. wish there was a guide or book.
I worked around some old techs and I will tell you this, I can actually count the number of times I seen them use a torque wrench, lol. Every one of them times was on an engine and nothing else.
yeah I know. everyone says just make it good and tight.
THANK YOU BROTHAA
My local Toyota dealer wants $850.00 per wheel to do this! I told them to "pound sand!!
I ordered the hub bearing assembly from Detroit Axel less than $200.00 for BOTH sides.. the complete assembly.. with a 10 year warranty...
how to replace toyota haice 2KD 2005 front wheel bearing
Did you actually mean hiace? Thank you for the knowledge
I
Paid a shop $500 for something I could have did, thanks for the video I’m doing the other side myself, where did u get the hub assembly from
I actually picked that hub assembly up at autozone. I was surprised to see they even had it. $500 for one hub replacement? Wow, I would thought it to be slightly cheaper than that but I guess I've been away from the business that long
Is it the same process for the rear?
No sir, the rear wheel bearings require the removal of the axle shafts
If they are six sided nuts why would it REQUIRE a 12 point socket? Makes no sense at all....
Thanks what a breeze
That truck is rusted to shit.
How has that Dorman hub assembly held up?
Still going strong and I drive some rough roads, lol