I know this an old video but I'm confused, I'm just about to do this adjustment and there is confusion as to the cylinders , two videos on here say cylinder 1 is clutch side while others say cylinder 1 is throttle side which is it ?
This is a good example of why you should always follow the workshop manual rather than some idiot (me) you see on RUclips. I’m not a mechanic. My vids are aimed at demystifying the process only.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Don't be too hard on yourself as the manual doesn't mention which cylinder is 1 or 2 and also tells us to align timing chain sprocket marks to the top notch when it should be the bottom, who knew.
Beware. As a couple of others have mentioned, the cylinders are incorrectly numbered in the video. Cylinder 1 is actually on the left, clutch lever, side. Also the job isn't as simple as portrayed. Taking the radiator off is tricky and there is no mention of the inspection window on the right cylinder head for checking T1 and T2 are correct.
@@paulkelly5296 Adjusting valves takes some knowledge and experience, it's not for beginning wrenchers. Mess it up, damage your engine. Play it safe. Bleeding brakes or adjusting the chain slack is child's play compared.
Thank you for all of your nice detailed videos. You have helped me save a lot of money and helped me to feel confident and closer to my bike. God bless you, I'm sure your videos have helped hundreds, maybe thousands of NC owners.
I checked and adjusted the lash on my 2018 today because of your video! It was a little over a 2 hour job for me, and I do have a good mechanical background and know how engines work. Easy! Another reason I bought the NC750X, easy maintenance. Thanks Thanks Thanks for your informational videos!
I'm such a fan of the lock nut type adjusters. It's not uncommon to get a £500 bill for valve checks on bikes like the CrossTourer yet look how straight forward it is on the NC. Such a great bike. Thanks for sharing this video.
DervMan - Agree. It's one of the top reasons I chose the NC over the Kawasaki Versus And the "check" bill will double if actual adjustment is needed - remove cans etc.
Did 90.000 kms on mine, never checked the tappets.. Still runs like a dream (I know, you should check them, but hey, it's a Honda! As long as you keep it lubed, its fine)
If they are too tight you risk damage to the valves. I'd check at 48K just to be safe. Often the valves are okay for tons of miles after the first check up.
Thanks form the UK for this job and the service to be done by my Honda dealership and a service is around £400. After your video my costs came to just the parts for the service. Thank you so much I will spend the cash you have saved my on fuel 👍 love all the videos keep safe
Did today the valve clearance inspection. Your vids help a lot. Was fun to do it and by far not as much work as I had expected. Thanks a lot, the last year you've been a good teacher to me :)
Freaking hell, didn't know valve clearance was this easy!. I was rip-off of almost $500 for my vtwin vstrom650, the mechanic said it is a tedious job as he need to "clean", process of getting to the engine bla bla bla. Thanks man for the video!
Khairi Rais - your mechanic was correct. The vstrom cams are difficult to get at and use "shim and bucket" clearance adjustment, not the simple "screw and locknut" of the NC Honda. This is one reason I chose the NC
Guys dont be hard on him. He already did a lot. Yes cilinders were wrong told, cyl 1 is on the Left side AS YOU SIT ON THE BIKE, or right side AS YOU FACE THE BIKE.
A cracking video. As others have stated, due to your clear and concise instructions it makes working on these bikes a doddle. I'm definitely going to get one. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the post. Looks very straight forward. Really looking hard at this model, on a very very short list of next bike. Really like the looks of yours. Good looking bike.
Great Video. I figured this bike would make that job easy and you just showed it was easier than I thought. Wish we could get the 750x in the U.S. Knowing I'd be missing 3-5 hp on a motor that is so modest already makes it a tough buy. I love the idea of this bike, but I can't decide if I can downgrade on power that much.
First time Ive opened up an engine in my life, thanks for the clear instructions on your maintainance video's. Saved me a load of money and learned a lot! My valve clearances were off on the intake on cil 1 and exhaust on cil 2. If you are like me and doubting if you should do this yourself, I thought it was a fairly easy job even with just basic mechanical skills. Just make sure you have the right tools!
@@ropeysubstance1719 I did because I wanted to replace them anyway. You would be fighting against engine compression when rotating it if you do not remove them
Thank you very much for your video! Just my two cents on the matter: valve clearance should be performed at top dead center at the compression stroke and on a cool engine. Take both plugs off. Put a finger on the intake rocker arm of either cilinder and rotate the crank. Once you feel it open and close, then the next TDC marking will be the one you're looking for for that particular cilinder, and where you should be doing your adjustments, if any. If you do the adjustments on the TDC at the exhaust stroke, then you'll hear nasty, loud valve sounds once you start the engine and will have to do it all over again once the bike is cooled down. Torque rocker arms nuts at 29 NM and the head cover bolts at 10 NM.
I enjoy your videos a little tip on the plastic you can apply some lube I like silicone-based grease you can even get a little tiny tube of the electric grease or faucet and valve Grease and apply it to all the little places where the plastic snaps into place it makes it lock in easily and silicone prevents water from washing off the grease you only need a tiny bit and then things lock right into place and don't wear out.
Excellent job thank you for posting that! Looks like I could probably handle that on my motorcycle when it needs it doing! Could be a little while as my brand-new NC 750 S only has 36 miles on it.... it was a breeze on my Moto Guzzi too. Thanks for sharing that and all the best!😀
thealvaco - I was surprised too. But to be fair there was still some clearance - just not perfectly in spec. If it had been a shim system I would have left it as is, but as it’s so easy to adjust - I did it.
well I did my valve adjustment according to your video my gas mileage went down almost 10%. Because I ended up adjusting the cylinders backwards now I have to redo it
To be fair, you should never follow advise from RUclips without using the workshop manual. You never know if you are following an idiot like me or a trained mechanic.
is it just me or is it extremely hard to hear the audio in this video? i turned the volume all the way up. also, when you filled up the coolant again did you mix it with distilled water or just straight coolant?
In my experience its not unusual to come across a couple of valves that need adjusting first time round, youl probably find future checks they wont need touching.
Thank you Adrian for all of your How To videos. Having no workshop manual, it is helping me a lot. After two years of riding my 2017 NC750X, I changed the oil in the forks and the brakes. I changed the coolant and adjusted the valves while there was no forks and radiator in the way. My owner manual is calling for an inspection at 25,600 KM and I am at 24K. All the valves were still at the factory specifications except both intake valves on cylinder number two. On your bike, at 19K your two intake valves were also tight. On mine, there was zero clearance left. Could it be a coincidence that both motors needed adjustment on the same cylinder or could there be a pattern to watch here. I wonder if others have the same experience on cylinder number two. I also installed a Cobra Nemo2 Chain Oiler. I did not have a chance to test it out yet but it should save me some hastle.
Ariel Britos - no performance improvement. The important thing is that if the gap is too small, the valve can stay open, which then burns the valve seat as it is exposed to combustion, which means head removal and repair.
What tools do I need for that? I'm buying a combination wrench set (8pcs, 6-22mm) and an allen key set (9pcs, 1.5-10mm) is that a good start and what would I also need? (I do have tools from my dad, but it's an incomplete and messy toolbox, now I want to buy my own (I got some tools already that I needed so far for changing wheels, oil change and other 12K km work) but still not sure what I need) Any general advice would be helpful too!
pixxel - whenever doing maintenance on the bike you should follow the workshop manual instructions. RUclips videos are just for general understanding. Tools? You will need a set of feeler gauges.
Hi great video as usual. I did myself this adjustment for the second time. I didn't see u use the mark hidden under the plastic circle on the right of the by motorbike when u sit on it. I presume when u shake the 4 valves and u feel some movement u know u are on the right cylinder. Otherwise u have tu turn again 360 degrees. My question is how can we be sure we are adjusting the right cylinder ? I mean of course I shared the 4 valves and checked all the marks...but is it possible that the previous adjustemt was so bad that it has been reversed between the cylinder s that I'm thinking that one (cylinder 1) is two (cylinder 2)...I'm asking this question because everyone says that cylinder 1 is on right side when I sit on the bike and when I checked the marks and shake the valve for me number one is on the left side. Anyways I finished the adjustment tried the bike and everything is fine... what do u think? Regards
I wonder why Honda decided to use two parallel intake rocker arms when one forked on would've done. Less costs, less weight. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that this engine was derived from the Honda Jazz car?
Not as easy as a MotoGuzzi as obviously no radiator and tappet covers out to the side so very easy to get at. However in saying that I like the idea you can easily adjust your tappets without the use of shims or having the up and down adjustments to do of each valve like the desmo. Nice video and well done..I think these are a well thought out bike with the engine configuration & the tank aiding the low centre of gravity. Shame they didn't use a 18' or 19" front wheel to aid rolling over obstacles. It's also a shame that the air cleaner is so difficult to get at for an adventure bike.
my friend, they sell this bike as adventure but is not,.. here in Canada after sales they says this bike is a touring cruiser... for long trips. but unfortunately seat is garbage for that too.
Just wondering but where did you get your specs from, I have a NC750X as well and I didn't see them in the owners manuel. Is there a Haynes Manuel or something simillar I can buy? Thanks
Great video; I've got the little brother, the NC700X - but the process for this is the same on that bike as it is for yours. Question though; I'm not sure based no a very incomplete service history if this is needed on my bike or not - can you tell, based on the sound of the running engine if there's a need to adjust?
Paul Young - no you cannot tell by listening. A quiet engine can mean no clearance on the valves. If you don’t know the history you must check the clearances. It could be very expensive if the clearances have closed up, causing valve seats to be burned and therefore a complete head recondition.
This bike is tempting me to purchase it! Do you regret selling yours? It seems like an incredible value for money on the secondary market, especially with hondas track record. And I love that the valves only take an hour or so to check. If I do purchase one it will get twice the fuel economy of the bike I currently ride! That is a selling point as gas is just going up and up. Is there anything you especially didn't care for while owning the bike???
It’s very underrated. You have to own one to appreciate how good they are. Regret selling? No. My Africa Twin allows me to go places I couldn’t go comfortably on the NC. Didn’t care for ? The budget suspension and (for my 190cm) cramped sitting position.
excellent step by step video. Good to also see that Honda have made these so easy to get to. I had a CBR500R and that was a PITA. I am looking to buy one of these as a soft adventure bike. Have you taken it off road? how many KM to the tank? Is the suspension adjustable with more than pre-load?
Shutters Castle Hill - Castle Hill Shutters - I've done a few hundred km on gravel roads (see my three day ride video). Although having a 17" front wheel it handles loose gravel well. The bike is "built to a price" and doesn't have any suspension adjustment other than rear preload. The tank holds 14ltrs. I get an average of 3.5 ltrs/100 which gives about 400km per tank. I owned a GS1150 for 13 years before this bike, riding it to places such as Innaminka. The NC is no GS but for the price and cost of ownership, I'm more than happy with it.
Thanks for the video. I can't believe that Honda uses old fashioned screw and nut tappet adjustments. A NC750 DCT will be my next bike! On my Tmax, I have to pretty much strip the scoot of everything to get to all the screws holding the cover. Then remove the camshafts to get to the adjuster buttons if one of the valves is off. Is there really only one exhaust pipe for both cylinders?
I used to have a TMax and loved it. If you wind up getting the NC750, post a review back here to let us know how you like it. I'm curious to see how the power is compared to the TMax.
Will do. As much as I like the Tmax, the idea of having to adjust the valves this winter gives me the chills. I'm looking at the DCT model to save the grip in my left hand. Should be easy to ride like the Tmax.
Good idea to have screw and nut tappet adjustment: with shims adjustment, you need to remove the camshaft. In the nc750x service manual, step number one for removing the cam shaft is: "remove engine from motorcycle frame "....
Great video. Did you say 19,000km that would be 12K miles my owners manual for the [NC700X] says inspect every 12,000 km or 8,000 miles so it should not be surprising that an adjustment was necessary?
Paul C - my experience with shin adjustment bikes is they rarely need adjustment. But I think it’s more common on screw and lock nut bikes for the first adjustment. I haven’t had to adjust again and now done 50,000km.
@@alexvandettum4185 That is wrong. Cylinder one is the one in the left while sitting on the bike. That means "gear selector" side. The video is wrong. Take care because is really important to adjust the valves when in TDC in compression.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hello. I tried to find the facebook group that you write but i can't find the group. Can you upload the document somewhere which we can download? thank you very much.
Tamer Yiğit - you will have to try again to find the Facebook group (type in the name as I have described it) and request to join. Cannot upload documents to RUclips.
Where did you get your workshop manual seen in the video? I have been searching for one for a year, but unable to find it. I want it specially for the list of torque spec for all the bolts. I saw one for sale once, but the shipping to europe was over the ludicrous ammount of 350$, more than four times the requested price of the manual.
Gryphus - in you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group” (be sure to intelligently answer the three questions) a PDF manual is in the Files section.
Isn't cylinder one on the left as you sit on the motorcycle? That would be opposite of what this shows. Only asking cause I am gonna do my nc700x and want to be sure.
Thanks for the video sir. I followed the manual to do the adjustment but I believe it runs out of spec in couple of week less than 1k km. I am not sure what went wrong? Can anyone share their experience? Thanks!
pedro lopez DJ - don’t know. It’s probably in the workshop manual but I don’t bother with torque settings unless it’s engine head bolts. They just need to be firm as there is a rubber gasket
Sorry But this is wrong. Cylinder 1 is on the opposite side of the clutch. So while sitting in bike Cylinder 1 is left. Cylinder 2 is right. So you will damage your bike using this Video.
help please. I am quite confused the video says cylinder 1 is to the right of the motorcycle if you are sitting on it or left if you are in front of it. that will leave cylinder two. on the left if you sit on the bike or right if you are in front of it. now you are saying "cylinder 1 is on the opposite side of the clutch. sitting on the bike" I am not an expert but my bike had the clutch on the left side.... so that means cylinder one is on the wright. and 2 left...... You say CYLINDER ONE IS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE CLUTCH. WHILE SITTING ON IN. that means ONE IS LEFT 2 IS RIGHT. IF one is sitting on the bike ASSUMING clutch is on the left side means that cylinder one is while sitting on the bike on the right side and 2 on the left side if you stand in front of the bike the cylinder order will be reverse to the eye meaning 1 left 2 right. so he is right isn't he?
It's a great video but I'm concerned about the confusion between cylinder 1 and cylinder 2. Maybe that's why Adrian found his clearances to be quite way out. Theres another nc valve clearance video by I think a Japanese guy. He uses the service manual and definitely refers to cylinder 1 as the left (gear pedal side). Can you correct the video please Adrian, just in case it can lead to damage. Thanks.
Captain Black - my videos are for entertainment only, as I don’t pretend to be an expert. You should always follow the manual, not some idiot who posts a video. It’s also not technically possible to “correct” a posted video. But thanks for your comment.
If it's the same video I've seen, he does cylinder two first and that's the one on the left as you're sitting on the bike. Adrian's video is the same and correct.
Great video Adrian! I'm curious if you noticed any performance change or gain after the adjustments? I'll be checking my valves for the first time very soon. Glad I have your video to make the job easier. :)
No performance improvement. Once valve clearances close up enough to leave valves open the first thing you get is misfiring under load, then burned valve seats, then a head recondition ....
Hi i see that you have a workshop manual is that a genuine one if so how much was it and where did you get it from the only ones i can find are in euros cheers
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff , unfortunately the 'free' downloaded version you have is not helping you since you've misidentified the cylinders in your video (you've shown the exhaust tappet for #2 as #1) and has been referenced many times as shown here: www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/4513-valve-adjustment-step-step.html "Since we've lined up Cylinder #1 -- which is ON THE LEFT -- we're going to check those first. " www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/11650-misc-maintenance-tips.html "Once you have set the #1 (left) cylinder's valves, you need only move 270 degrees more to line up T2 for the #2 (right) cylinder. " nc700forumsa.proboards.com/thread/254/valve-adjustment-procedure-honda-nc700x 1/2 down the page a picture of the valve adjustment is found showing Cylinder #1 (#1 exhaust) RUclips procedure found here: ruclips.net/video/oWUCFoz01tk/видео.html @ 4:08 the video references "Align 1 with the Notch for Cylinder 1(Clutch side), Align 2 with the notch for Cylinder 2 (Brake side) " as in which side your clutch/brake handles are. All in all an excellent presentation save this pertinent detail which I believe since this is the second notification you might want to re-shoot this portion of your video. As a point of reference I've had my NC700X since 12/2012 and have 67,600 + miles and have done my own service the whole time and used the above procedures without a problem.
Dave Mammali - I only knew they were out when I measured the gap. It’s critical to check as the first you will know the gaps are closed is when the valve seats get burned and the bike starts missing. Then you are up for a head recondition!
Jay B - agree. It's one reason I bought the NC. By the way, the GS BMW's (the air/water cooled ones at least ) also have screw and lock but adjustment.
I’ve watched this vlog before but only just noticed (I’ve never claimed to be intelligent) you seem to have a workshop manual. Where can I buy such a thing?
As far as I know - these type of settings are always done with the engine at operating temp otherwise the gap will be incorrect. You don't mention this at all?
Valve lash adjustments can be done hot or cold-whatever the shop manual suggests. Some shop manuals show both hot and cold specs. some only show one.(hot or cold)
Always cold engine since heat expands metals. Kind of amazed you have to remove the radiator to service the tappets. Used to run Honda CX500's (v-twin) many years ago which you could service in your lunch hour. Drain oil, remove and change oil filter, seat off, tank off, engine covers off and tappets exposed. Grab lunch while it cooled down, fill oil, adjust tappets, clean air filter, put it back together, DONE. This looks very similar to CX500 apart from radiator. Nice!
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks bro..... do you have any solution to remove the water pump from the engine as i notice that the Body frame is blocking the bolts ..... would appreciate it if you have any solution on that.... was thinking of loosening the engine mount to drop the engine slightly.... what do you suggest... thanks again.....
I don’t have any experience with the water pump removal. And as I’m not a mechanic I can’t offer any suggestions either. What does the workshop manual say? You should never attempt any job without reference to the workshop manual.
Antimortem - I haven’t felt the need to check it. Symptoms would be uneven idle and jerky slow speed when the throttle is just a little open. You need special purpose vacuum gauges to check it.
Usually you must check it every 20k km. Its standard maintenance for every multiple cylinders engines. Why don't you do it as preventative maintenance? Another symptom of uneven intake body is vibration. Please think about it :)
Antimortem - I’ve thought about it. But won’t be doing it any time soon. I agree it is standard on carbureted bikes but not nearly as necessary on fuel injected ones.
That's not true. You still need to adjust the amount of pressure that goes into the engine. Carb type is called carburetor butterflies sync. Fuel injection ones is throttle body sync. Trust me, it's an essential maintenance job. I have seen it being done on a mt07 Yamaha but it would be better to see it done on the nc750. If you wait for the symptoms than it might not be obvious till a more serious problem starts happening.
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I know this an old video but I'm confused, I'm just about to do this adjustment and there is confusion as to the cylinders , two videos on here say cylinder 1 is clutch side while others say cylinder 1 is throttle side which is it ?
This is a good example of why you should always follow the workshop manual rather than some idiot (me) you see on RUclips.
I’m not a mechanic. My vids are aimed at demystifying the process only.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Don't be too hard on yourself as the manual doesn't mention which cylinder is 1 or 2 and also tells us to align timing chain sprocket marks to the top notch when it should be the bottom, who knew.
So there you are, no wiser. Nor am I. Is No1 cylinder clutch side or throttle side?
@@stevetaylor8698 Cylinders are always numbered left to right AS YOU SIT ON THE BIKE. #1 is clutch side; #2 is throttle side, always.
@@webmastermail8 can you explain this further? i dont get what you're saying
I do not have a honda but I am using these videos on my triumph...because you took away the fear of me working on a bike. For that I thank you sir!
Beware. As a couple of others have mentioned, the cylinders are incorrectly numbered in the video. Cylinder 1 is actually on the left, clutch lever, side. Also the job isn't as simple as portrayed. Taking the radiator off is tricky and there is no mention of the inspection window on the right cylinder head for checking T1 and T2 are correct.
So he did it wrong then? @Honda NC750X Stuff can you address this please?
@@paulkelly5296 Adjusting valves takes some knowledge and experience, it's not for beginning wrenchers. Mess it up, damage your engine. Play it safe. Bleeding brakes or adjusting the chain slack is child's play compared.
Thank you for all of your nice detailed videos. You have helped me save a lot of money and helped me to feel confident and closer to my bike. God bless you, I'm sure your videos have helped hundreds, maybe thousands of NC owners.
Big Daddy - thanks mate.
I checked and adjusted the lash on my 2018 today because of your video! It was a little over a 2 hour job for me, and I do have a good mechanical background and know how engines work. Easy! Another reason I bought the NC750X, easy maintenance. Thanks Thanks Thanks for your informational videos!
Good to hear. Thanks.
I'm such a fan of the lock nut type adjusters. It's not uncommon to get a £500 bill for valve checks on bikes like the CrossTourer yet look how straight forward it is on the NC. Such a great bike. Thanks for sharing this video.
DervMan - Agree. It's one of the top reasons I chose the NC over the Kawasaki Versus
And the "check" bill will double if actual adjustment is needed - remove cans etc.
Nice work! Even if one has the shop manual, these kind of technical videos do improve one's confidence while doing just the same thing. Thank you!
Dario Iglesias - thank you.
Did 90.000 kms on mine, never checked the tappets.. Still runs like a dream (I know, you should check them, but hey, it's a Honda! As long as you keep it lubed, its fine)
If they are too tight you risk damage to the valves. I'd check at 48K just to be safe. Often the valves are okay for tons of miles after the first check up.
For the hour it takes to do I think it's time well spent!
this is how i killed my cbr600f - never checked valves .. now engine is dead after sucking hot exhaust into the intake
So glad i bought my NC. it is a easy bike to work on yourself.
Great content
Thanks and Cheers from Canada
Brian 1 - thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback
Thanks form the UK for this job and the service to be done by my Honda dealership and a service is around £400. After your video my costs came to just the parts for the service. Thank you so much I will spend the cash you have saved my on fuel 👍 love all the videos keep safe
Good to hear. Thanks
Did today the valve clearance inspection. Your vids help a lot. Was fun to do it and by far not as much work as I had expected. Thanks a lot, the last year you've been a good teacher to me :)
Good to hear another person doing their own maintenance. Thanks.
Freaking hell, didn't know valve clearance was this easy!.
I was rip-off of almost $500 for my vtwin vstrom650, the mechanic said it is a tedious job as he need to "clean", process of getting to the engine bla bla bla.
Thanks man for the video!
Khairi Rais - your mechanic was correct. The vstrom cams are difficult to get at and use "shim and bucket" clearance adjustment, not the simple "screw and locknut" of the NC Honda.
This is one reason I chose the NC
Honda NC750X Stuff : A wise choice indeed you chose.
Many bikes are shim and bucket. Give some, lose some. Choose wisely.
Guys dont be hard on him. He already did a lot. Yes cilinders were wrong told, cyl 1 is on the Left side AS YOU SIT ON THE BIKE, or right side AS YOU FACE THE BIKE.
A cracking video. As others have stated, due to your clear and concise instructions it makes working on these bikes a doddle. I'm definitely going to get one. Keep up the good work.
Andrew Pugh - thanks for the thumbs up Andrew. Appreciated.
Thanks for the post.
Looks very straight forward.
Really looking hard at this model, on a very very short list of next bike.
Really like the looks of yours. Good looking bike.
Thomas Owens Me too, I’m still a begginer and this bike seems perfect from all points, price especially
Great Video. I figured this bike would make that job easy and you just showed it was easier than I thought.
Wish we could get the 750x in the U.S. Knowing I'd be missing 3-5 hp on a motor that is so modest already makes it a tough buy. I love the idea of this bike, but I can't decide if I can downgrade on power that much.
RnRbmk Having owned a 700 and 750 i can tell you you wont notice the difference, in fact sometime i think my 700 was faster.
First time Ive opened up an engine in my life, thanks for the clear instructions on your maintainance video's. Saved me a load of money and learned a lot!
My valve clearances were off on the intake on cil 1 and exhaust on cil 2.
If you are like me and doubting if you should do this yourself, I thought it was a fairly easy job even with just basic mechanical skills. Just make sure you have the right tools!
Did you have to remove the spark plugs?
@@ropeysubstance1719 I did because I wanted to replace them anyway. You would be fighting against engine compression when rotating it if you do not remove them
@@NLRamonNL i see, thanks!
Thank you very much for your video! Just my two cents on the matter: valve clearance should be performed at top dead center at the compression stroke and on a cool engine. Take both plugs off. Put a finger on the intake rocker arm of either cilinder and rotate the crank. Once you feel it open and close, then the next TDC marking will be the one you're looking for for that particular cilinder, and where you should be doing your adjustments, if any. If you do the adjustments on the TDC at the exhaust stroke, then you'll hear nasty, loud valve sounds once you start the engine and will have to do it all over again once the bike is cooled down. Torque rocker arms nuts at 29 NM and the head cover bolts at 10 NM.
NO!!! Rocker arm locking nuts must only be torqued to 14Nm.
Best Honda Nc 750 videos on youtube!
Thanks mate. I’m blushing 🥰
Love your video's.
You explain things that anyone can understand .👍
Ordering my NC750X DCT Tomorrow.
Paul The Grump - always exciting to get a new bike. DCT not sold on Oz.
Have you joined the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners Group”?
Many thanks for your reply
No shims. Thats conveniant. I start to more and more like this bike. Might be my next one.
That's one of the reasons I bought mine. The suspension, however, leaves much to be desired.
I enjoy your videos a little tip on the plastic you can apply some lube I like silicone-based grease you can even get a little tiny tube of the electric grease or faucet and valve Grease and apply it to all the little places where the plastic snaps into place it makes it lock in easily and silicone prevents water from washing off the grease you only need a tiny bit and then things lock right into place and don't wear out.
Excellent job thank you for posting that!
Looks like I could probably handle that on my motorcycle when it needs it doing!
Could be a little while as my brand-new NC 750 S only has 36 miles on it.... it was a breeze on my Moto Guzzi too.
Thanks for sharing that and all the best!😀
Good explanation but I remove the spark plugs to make positioning the timing marks easier without engine compression.
Graham Allardice - yes I should have done that.
Thank you very much for all the effort and sharing your valve adjustment video.🙏
Excellent ! Like the rest of your videos !! Keep up !!!
super easy access indeed, I have done 35k km on mine 2014 so maybe I should go ahead and check :)
Robson Enduro - yes. It’s worth it just for the peace of mind, given how easy it is to check.
Nice easy to follow video. Definite thumbs up.
Thanks for your generous lesson for beginers. Good work.
Good video man. It also surprised me that the valves were not all in spec.
thealvaco - I was surprised too. But to be fair there was still some clearance - just not perfectly in spec. If it had been a shim system I would have left it as is, but as it’s so easy to adjust - I did it.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I'd do the same.
well I did my valve adjustment according to your video my gas mileage went down almost 10%. Because I ended up adjusting the cylinders backwards now I have to redo it
To be fair, you should never follow advise from RUclips without using the workshop manual. You never know if you are following an idiot like me or a trained mechanic.
is it just me or is it extremely hard to hear the audio in this video? i turned the volume all the way up.
also, when you filled up the coolant again did you mix it with distilled water or just straight coolant?
In my experience its not unusual to come across a couple of valves that need adjusting first time round, youl probably find future checks they wont need touching.
Thank you Adrian for all of your How To videos. Having no workshop manual, it is helping me a lot. After two years of riding my 2017 NC750X, I changed the oil in the forks and the brakes. I changed the coolant and adjusted the valves while there was no forks and radiator in the way.
My owner manual is calling for an inspection at 25,600 KM and I am at 24K. All the valves were still at the factory specifications except both intake valves on cylinder number two. On your bike, at 19K your two intake valves were also tight. On mine, there was zero clearance left. Could it be a coincidence that both motors needed adjustment on the same cylinder or could there be a pattern to watch here. I wonder if others have the same experience on cylinder number two.
I also installed a Cobra Nemo2 Chain Oiler. I did not have a chance to test it out yet but it should save me some hastle.
Good on you mate. It’s a great feeling to “do it yourself”.
After that initial adjustment my value clearances have not moved. Now at 61,000km.
Thanks for posting. Looks like a super easy job.
Barry
In my opinion cylinder #1 -- is ON THE LEFT side where the 17mm crankshaft wrench is... Cylinder 2# on the right side of the bike where brakes is...
Numbered on the opposite direction of engine power outlet. Like a car you numbered on the opposite of gearbox
Hi and thanks for all the vids. May I ask: cylinder 1 is the left cylinder as you sit on the bike?
Correct
Great vid. Easy job for the weekend. Well done
Great job! Thanks for sharing! By the way, did you notice an improvement in performance after adjusting valves?
Ariel Britos - no performance improvement. The important thing is that if the gap is too small, the valve can stay open, which then burns the valve seat as it is exposed to combustion, which means head removal and repair.
What tools do I need for that?
I'm buying a combination wrench set (8pcs, 6-22mm) and an allen key set (9pcs, 1.5-10mm) is that a good start and what would I also need?
(I do have tools from my dad, but it's an incomplete and messy toolbox, now I want to buy my own (I got some tools already that I needed so far for changing wheels, oil change and other 12K km work) but still not sure what I need) Any general advice would be helpful too!
pixxel - whenever doing maintenance on the bike you should follow the workshop manual instructions. RUclips videos are just for general understanding.
Tools? You will need a set of feeler gauges.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff yep I got that👍
Hi great video as usual. I did myself this adjustment for the second time. I didn't see u use the mark hidden under the plastic circle on the right of the by motorbike when u sit on it. I presume when u shake the 4 valves and u feel some movement u know u are on the right cylinder. Otherwise u have tu turn again 360 degrees. My question is how can we be sure we are adjusting the right cylinder ? I mean of course I shared the 4 valves and checked all the marks...but is it possible that the previous adjustemt was so bad that it has been reversed between the cylinder s that I'm thinking that one (cylinder 1) is two (cylinder 2)...I'm asking this question because everyone says that cylinder 1 is on right side when I sit on the bike and when I checked the marks and shake the valve for me number one is on the left side. Anyways I finished the adjustment tried the bike and everything is fine... what do u think? Regards
merci beaucoup, bonne vidéo ,très clair, et facile a comprendre
I'm always concerned when I check valve clearances and they are to tight this usually indicates future valve problems
seems to be prevalent with these NC's though none have reported valve problems. they just usually work themselves a bit tight I've read.
I wonder why Honda decided to use two parallel intake rocker arms when one forked on would've done. Less costs, less weight.
Maybe it has something to do with the fact that this engine was derived from the Honda Jazz car?
Danke,das ist ja ganz einfach selbst zu machen !!! Grüße aus Deutschland
Excelente, apesar de não entender muito, foi bastante didático o seu vídeo, meus parabéns e obrigado.
Informative andreassuring, thank you for the vid. Can you tell what bit is used at 2:45 to twist the engine to the right position?
oh really - just a standard socket - can’t remember the size - fits onto the head of a bolt.
Not as easy as a MotoGuzzi as obviously no radiator and tappet covers out to the side so very easy to get at. However in saying that I like the idea you can easily adjust your tappets without the use of shims or having the up and down adjustments to do of each valve like the desmo. Nice video and well done..I think these are a well thought out bike with the engine configuration & the tank aiding the low centre of gravity. Shame they didn't use a 18' or 19" front wheel to aid rolling over obstacles. It's also a shame that the air cleaner is so difficult to get at for an adventure bike.
my friend, they sell this bike as adventure but is not,.. here in Canada after sales they says this bike is a touring cruiser... for long trips. but unfortunately seat is garbage for that too.
Great job, thanks for sharing 👊👍😃
Thank you friend. This was super clear. Nice job.
Just wondering but where did you get your specs from, I have a NC750X as well and I didn't see them in the owners manuel. Is there a Haynes Manuel or something simillar I can buy? Thanks
callum millward - if you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group”, there is a workshop manual in “files”.
Thank you for doing this video!!!
Great video; I've got the little brother, the NC700X - but the process for this is the same on that bike as it is for yours. Question though; I'm not sure based no a very incomplete service history if this is needed on my bike or not - can you tell, based on the sound of the running engine if there's a need to adjust?
Paul Young - no you cannot tell by listening. A quiet engine can mean no clearance on the valves.
If you don’t know the history you must check the clearances. It could be very expensive if the clearances have closed up, causing valve seats to be burned and therefore a complete head recondition.
If the clearances are way out it will sound different but you wont know till you do it.
This bike is tempting me to purchase it! Do you regret selling yours? It seems like an incredible value for money on the secondary market, especially with hondas track record. And I love that the valves only take an hour or so to check. If I do purchase one it will get twice the fuel economy of the bike I currently ride! That is a selling point as gas is just going up and up.
Is there anything you especially didn't care for while owning the bike???
It’s very underrated. You have to own one to appreciate how good they are.
Regret selling? No. My Africa Twin allows me to go places I couldn’t go comfortably on the NC.
Didn’t care for ? The budget suspension and (for my 190cm) cramped sitting position.
Great vid. Very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
so much easier than on any Honda sport bikes such as CBR 600 RR or F4i ...
Very Nice Work ! Congratulations ! like like like total from Brazil !
Complimenti per il lavoro svolto, ma non capisco una cosa, possibile che in soli 2 anni un motore abbia già bisogno di questo tipo di manutenzione?
Nice video!!!
Where do I find workshop manuals for these adjustments?
excellent step by step video. Good to also see that Honda have made these so easy to get to. I had a CBR500R and that was a PITA. I am looking to buy one of these as a soft adventure bike. Have you taken it off road? how many KM to the tank? Is the suspension adjustable with more than pre-load?
Shutters Castle Hill - Castle Hill Shutters - I've done a few hundred km on gravel roads (see my three day ride video). Although having a 17" front wheel it handles loose gravel well.
The bike is "built to a price" and doesn't have any suspension adjustment other than rear preload.
The tank holds 14ltrs. I get an average of 3.5 ltrs/100 which gives about 400km per tank.
I owned a GS1150 for 13 years before this bike, riding it to places such as Innaminka. The NC is no GS but for the price and cost of ownership, I'm more than happy with it.
Thanks for the video. I can't believe that Honda uses old fashioned screw and nut tappet adjustments. A NC750 DCT will be my next bike! On my Tmax, I have to pretty much strip the scoot of everything to get to all the screws holding the cover. Then remove the camshafts to get to the adjuster buttons if one of the valves is off. Is there really only one exhaust pipe for both cylinders?
bigwheelsturning - yes only one pipe. The advantage of a low stressed low revving engine means the nice and easy screw and lock but adjustment.
I used to have a TMax and loved it. If you wind up getting the NC750, post a review back here to let us know how you like it. I'm curious to see how the power is compared to the TMax.
Will do. As much as I like the Tmax, the idea of having to adjust the valves this winter gives me the chills. I'm looking at the DCT model to save the grip in my left hand. Should be easy to ride like the Tmax.
Good idea to have screw and nut tappet adjustment: with shims adjustment, you need to remove the camshaft. In the nc750x service manual, step number one for removing the cam shaft is: "remove engine from motorcycle frame "....
Its lovely and easy maintenance!
Great video. Did you say 19,000km that would be 12K miles my owners manual for the [NC700X] says inspect every 12,000 km or 8,000 miles so it should not be surprising that an adjustment was necessary?
Paul C - my experience with shin adjustment bikes is they rarely need adjustment.
But I think it’s more common on screw and lock nut bikes for the first adjustment.
I haven’t had to adjust again and now done 50,000km.
Does this motorcycle have a parking light? If it has it how to enable
Great content, pity you don't have a vfr 1200, to give me confidence to check mine.
Hello everyone, so after all which one is cylinder one ?
Thank you
If you stay by the front (like in the Video), the left cylinder is the cylinder one. The right cylinder is the cylinder 2.
@@alexvandettum4185 That is wrong. Cylinder one is the one in the left while sitting on the bike. That means "gear selector" side. The video is wrong. Take care because is really important to adjust the valves when in TDC in compression.
Cylinder 1 is to the right then you see it from the video and the spark plug cable is labeled (1) to the right then you sitt I front of the Bike
I'm in the locknut and screw position too with my little Inazuma 250.
Another very helpful video; thanks so much. Can you tell me where you bought your service manual? I’d really like one :-)
Thanks again
albijohnson- if you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners Group” there is a shared electronic copy in the files section.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hello. I tried to find the facebook group that you write but i can't find the group. Can you upload the document somewhere which we can download? thank you very much.
Tamer Yiğit - you will have to try again to find the Facebook group (type in the name as I have described it) and request to join. Cannot upload documents to RUclips.
Where did you get your workshop manual seen in the video? I have been searching for one for a year, but unable to find it. I want it specially for the list of torque spec for all the bolts.
I saw one for sale once, but the shipping to europe was over the ludicrous ammount of 350$, more than four times the requested price of the manual.
Gryphus - in you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group” (be sure to intelligently answer the three questions) a PDF manual is in the Files section.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thank you so much :)
Isn't cylinder one on the left as you sit on the motorcycle? That would be opposite of what this shows. Only asking cause I am gonna do my nc700x and want to be sure.
Yes, this video is wrong.
I think so, too. Cylinder 1 is in the Opposite Site of the clutch. So While sitting in the bike. Cylinder 1 is left. And two is right.
Hey, Im building up the courage to do this myself. Tell me is the Gasket silicone necessary after the job?
I’m not a qualified mechanic so you should always follow the workshop manual instructions.
This is just what I do. 🙂
Thanks for the video sir. I followed the manual to do the adjustment but I believe it runs out of spec in couple of week less than 1k km. I am not sure what went wrong? Can anyone share their experience? Thanks!
Btw I say so because now I exp diff to start, check engine light, overheating as the fan was turned on after engine off.
Great video I have a NC 750 s DCT
How are you finding it?
Thank you very much, could you tell me what is the tightening torque of the valve cover, greetings from Spain..😉
pedro lopez DJ - don’t know. It’s probably in the workshop manual but I don’t bother with torque settings unless it’s engine head bolts.
They just need to be firm as there is a rubber gasket
Great video, thanks, is there anywhere i can get a workshop manual from!!
Paul Cooper - join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group”. There is a manual in the files section.
Thank you for the perfekt video !!!
Sorry But this is wrong. Cylinder 1 is on the opposite side of the clutch. So while sitting in bike Cylinder 1 is left. Cylinder 2 is right. So you will damage your bike using this Video.
you need to be clear in saying he's wrong if you're talking the clutch or its lever, he's talking about the lever as I remember.
help please. I am quite confused the video says cylinder 1 is to the right of the motorcycle if you are sitting on it or left if you are in front of it. that will leave cylinder two. on the left if you sit on the bike or right if you are in front of it. now you are saying "cylinder 1 is on the opposite side of the clutch. sitting on the bike" I am not an expert but my bike had the clutch on the left side.... so that means cylinder one is on the wright. and 2 left...... You say CYLINDER ONE IS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE CLUTCH. WHILE SITTING ON IN. that means ONE IS LEFT 2 IS RIGHT. IF one is sitting on the bike ASSUMING clutch is on the left side means that cylinder one is while sitting on the bike on the right side and 2 on the left side if you stand in front of the bike the cylinder order will be reverse to the eye meaning 1 left 2 right. so he is right isn't he?
@@fedora296 Align # 1, wiggle the tappets to find the correct side. Go slow
It's a great video but I'm concerned about the confusion between cylinder 1 and cylinder 2. Maybe that's why Adrian found his clearances to be quite way out. Theres another nc valve clearance video by I think a Japanese guy. He uses the service manual and definitely refers to cylinder 1 as the left (gear pedal side).
Can you correct the video please Adrian, just in case it can lead to damage. Thanks.
Captain Black - my videos are for entertainment only, as I don’t pretend to be an expert.
You should always follow the manual, not some idiot who posts a video.
It’s also not technically possible to “correct” a posted video.
But thanks for your comment.
If it's the same video I've seen, he does cylinder two first and that's the one on the left as you're sitting on the bike. Adrian's video is the same and correct.
ruclips.net/video/NcoTVIi885s/видео.html
Look at 3:30
please tell us how to repair the rear monoshock or equivalent
Well New NC750X DCT ordered Delivery Date 10th November Yippee .
so easy on this bike , i like
Great video Adrian! I'm curious if you noticed any performance change or gain after the adjustments? I'll be checking my valves for the first time very soon. Glad I have your video to make the job easier. :)
No performance improvement. Once valve clearances close up enough to leave valves open the first thing you get is misfiring under load, then burned valve seats, then a head recondition ....
Hi i see that you have a workshop manual is that a genuine one if so how much was it and where did you get it from the only ones i can find are in euros cheers
crispernator - no, I don’t have a workshop manual for the 750. I’m using a free downloaded 700 version that is close enough for what I need.
ok thanks for that
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff , unfortunately the 'free' downloaded version you have is not helping you since you've misidentified the cylinders in your video (you've shown the exhaust tappet for #2 as #1) and has been referenced many times as shown here:
www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/4513-valve-adjustment-step-step.html
"Since we've lined up Cylinder #1 -- which is ON THE LEFT -- we're going to check those first.
"
www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/11650-misc-maintenance-tips.html
"Once you have set the #1 (left) cylinder's valves, you need only move 270 degrees more to line up T2 for the #2 (right) cylinder.
"
nc700forumsa.proboards.com/thread/254/valve-adjustment-procedure-honda-nc700x
1/2 down the page a picture of the valve adjustment is found showing Cylinder #1 (#1 exhaust)
RUclips procedure found here: ruclips.net/video/oWUCFoz01tk/видео.html
@ 4:08 the video references "Align 1 with the Notch for Cylinder 1(Clutch side), Align 2 with the notch for Cylinder 2 (Brake side) " as in which side your clutch/brake handles are.
All in all an excellent presentation save this pertinent detail which I believe since this is the second notification you might want to re-shoot this portion of your video. As a point of reference I've had my NC700X since 12/2012 and have 67,600 + miles and have done my own service the whole time and used the above procedures without a problem.
Mozes li mi pomoci,neki kontak ili slicno?Imam Hondu Nc 700 Dct,problem sa menjacem.
Good when know what your doing. How did you know they were out or were you just checking?
Dave Mammali - I only knew they were out when I measured the gap. It’s critical to check as the first you will know the gaps are closed is when the valve seats get burned and the bike starts missing. Then you are up for a head recondition!
Genuinely surprised to see the locknut/screw type adjusters on such a modern bike. Maybe with such a low state of tune it is more feasible
Jay B - agree. It's one reason I bought the NC.
By the way, the GS BMW's (the air/water cooled ones at least ) also have screw and lock but adjustment.
Jay B Early GSX engines had screw adjusters and they were high performance, bloody lot easier than ginning around with shims.
good stuff, very informative.
Is this a check after 24k km or 48k km?
Stefanos Gkouts - 24
Thanks
Stefanos Gkouts - checked again recently at 40,000km. No change. Still in spec.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Great to know. Thank you very much for the info
How many kms to check/adjust the tappets
spudcoat - every 24,000km
Do i need to remove the engine oil 1st and what type of tool do you use to turn the engine?
Faizal Ahmad - no you don’t have to drain the engine oil. Cannot remember the size socket I used to turn the engine. Just try one till it fits.
Honda NC750X Stuff okay thxs
Is the CTX700 basically the same engine but smaller?
todd baker - I believe so, but don't know conclusively.
I’ve watched this vlog before but only just noticed (I’ve never claimed to be intelligent) you seem to have a workshop manual. Where can I buy such a thing?
If you join the “Honda NX750X Owners group” you can download it from the files section.
Thank you, I’ll look into that👍🏻
As far as I know - these type of settings are always done with the engine at operating temp otherwise the
gap will be incorrect. You don't mention this at all?
Clive Davis - definitely NOT done at operating temperature. MUST be done when the engine is completely cold.
Valve lash adjustments can be done hot or cold-whatever the shop manual suggests. Some shop manuals show both hot and cold specs. some only show one.(hot or cold)
Always cold engine since heat expands metals.
Kind of amazed you have to remove the radiator to service the tappets.
Used to run Honda CX500's (v-twin) many years ago which you could service in your lunch hour. Drain oil, remove and change oil filter, seat off, tank off, engine covers off and tappets exposed. Grab lunch while it cooled down, fill oil, adjust tappets, clean air filter, put it back together, DONE.
This looks very similar to CX500 apart from radiator. Nice!
good job , thanks
Good day bro, do you have any video on water pump replacement? Thanks in advanced.
Sorry. No.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks bro..... do you have any solution to remove the water pump from the engine as i notice that the Body frame is blocking the bolts ..... would appreciate it if you have any solution on that.... was thinking of loosening the engine mount to drop the engine slightly.... what do you suggest... thanks again.....
I don’t have any experience with the water pump removal. And as I’m not a mechanic I can’t offer any suggestions either.
What does the workshop manual say?
You should never attempt any job without reference to the workshop manual.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff noted with thanks... the manual is not clear....
Hola mi nombre es Tomás quisiera saber con cuantos km has hecho el reglaje de deválvulas y con cuantos km lo recomiendas.
Gracias un saludo
Antonio Tomás Cobo Villalba - sorry. I only speak English so don’t understand your comment.
Ohh sorry, I would like to know with how km have you done the valve adjustment and also with how km do you recommend me, lot of thankss
Antonio Tomás Cobo Villalba - 24,000km intervals.
Gracias
Brilliant, thank you 🤙
Hi there ' do you need throttle body sync done with the NC 750? Can you show us how to do it?
Antimortem - I haven’t felt the need to check it. Symptoms would be uneven idle and jerky slow speed when the throttle is just a little open.
You need special purpose vacuum gauges to check it.
Usually you must check it every 20k km. Its standard maintenance for every multiple cylinders engines. Why don't you do it as preventative maintenance? Another symptom of uneven intake body is vibration. Please think about it :)
Antimortem - I’ve thought about it. But won’t be doing it any time soon. I agree it is standard on carbureted bikes but not nearly as necessary on fuel injected ones.
That's not true. You still need to adjust the amount of pressure that goes into the engine. Carb type is called carburetor butterflies sync. Fuel injection ones is throttle body sync. Trust me, it's an essential maintenance job. I have seen it being done on a mt07 Yamaha but it would be better to see it done on the nc750. If you wait for the symptoms than it might not be obvious till a more serious problem starts happening.
Antimortem - mate what do you not understand about NO?
Are these specs the same for the 700x?
Big Daddy - the process will bid the same. Don’t know about the clearance settings. Sorry.
Tnx man!