Blinds sitting in box for last 5 YEARS waiting for my husband to fit them, just did them myself, with your help!! Not the best job but 2nd one better than first. Thanks so much 😅
Over the years I’ve put up loads of blinds. And they’ve all been slightly wrong. I’m not great at DIY. This video has made me an expert! Such a simple job when you’re taking the right measurements. Thank you. Happy wife, happy life!
I bought 6 of these years ago from a yard sale for like €10 (or 10 pounds) total, they were unused and in perfect order but without instructions. I forgot about them because I also had curtains, but now I moved to another house and using them with your help saved me at least €200 because I didn't have to buy new stuff for 2 rooms. I even had the exact same floor piece element to cut on.
one of the better guides out there, there are some trash roller fitting guides out there. If you're trimming the blind 'on site' then you can as easily fit the brackets then cut the tube to suit and finally trim the fabric to suit the tube. I fit made to measure blinds but occasionally fit readymade rollers for friends and family. As for the child safety 'p' clip, leave some slack so it runs through easier and you can pull it away so you don't 'scrape' your knuckles, the idea is to leave it loose enough to make it easy to use but not enough for a child to get there head through. But the best advice is to buy a made to measure blind, everything about them is of much higher quality than ready made blinds, better brackets, thicker tube, stronger, smoother clutch set. higher standard of finish.
Is it me but no measuring was shown of the blind as a whole as that is what fits in the recess ? You cut the blind cloth to the aperture size and you won't have allowed for the end fittings
This will be my first DIY job unsupervised. Have been involved in putting them up with someone else but not drilled holes before. I am determined to become independent at this! Cutting to size is the easy bit, it's drilling the holes that will be the challenge. However, you have give some helpful tips so here goes!
Great video, I’ve fitted these exact blinds before too. I always adjust mine so that the little plastic connector on the pull cord is hard up against the top, that way you can never accidentally keep pulling on the cord, causing the blind to just roll over and over at the top. I also usually reverse the blind so that it drops on the back side of the roller, making it even closer to the window.
I can’t tell you how helpful this video was for the blind I just put up. The sheer amount of fuck ups id have made following the pictorial instructions is unbelievable, particularly the measuring element. Thank you.
Just as an added bonus I always move the connector for the draw string so that it acts as a stopper when the roller is dropped to the correct length, saves you over rolling and getting the blind hitting and collecting on the sill. Good video, cheers
Many thanks for the video. Got in knots thinking how I was going to cut them. Literally subtracted one number from the other and away i went cutting and they fit perfectly! Many thanks.
Stu thank you thank you thank you for mentioning the child safety clip and it's importance, so many people just take it off & don't realise that it is then not compliant and a hazard (& it doesn't matter if you don't have kids in your home or visiting you could sell the property to someone who does). Obviously you don't need it fully blackout in the utility there but if people want it to be more blackout having it roll down the back will help and mounting outside the recess with a reasonable overlap will also help
Great Video! Protecting the wall with cardboard before drilling was a great tip. Also Subtracting the the width of the window from the width of the shade was another great idea! Thanks!
Very clear instructional video Stuart, well done! It's the fixings into the lintel can be problematic! Sometimes I've had to coat the plugs into an adhesive like no nails and let it go off before fixing the screws. Good tip about measuring the waste. Regards Keith
Thanks for the tips. I nearly came a cropper when I followed your suggestion to measure the cloth to be removed ... I checked the amount to be used and it wasn't correct due to the cloth sides not being parallel. I had to measure the cloth used and, fortunately, that worked. Suggestion .. measure at least twice. 😁
Very nice blind. Easy installation. Glad to see they have been refined and updated so I can finally address our entirely too sunny kitchen sink window and a few others in the house where the max. width of shades available for our budget at the time were a bit too short.
Nicely explained. There are companies that make made-to-measure blinds to order (including aluminium and wooden slatted Venetian blinds). Have always obtained blinds this way to get the perfect fit, especially when fitted in the window recess. Also beware hidden steel lintels immediately above the plasterboard in the recess. These can be difficult to drill through cleanly and it may be worth using a pipe detector to check if one is concealed, and if so where it protrudes to within the recess, before drilling.
Yes, I agree, sometimes the Lintel will only allow a 5mmx20mm (or 5m x 25mm) rawl plug/screw, etc if drilling into the top of the recess, whereas if you use newer brackets they are multipurpose and will all top or side mounting, so where there is a Lintel you can opt for side mounting. Also worth noting the brackets are made flat on one side and angled on another so when you insert the blind into the back the bracket works under tension now to hold the blind tighter in position.
On the blinds I’ve fitted over the years I’ve never been happy with the finish on the cut edge of the material - although I didn’t do it with a Stanley knife but scissors…..one lesson learnt there from your video. However, on my last blind I thought I’d give it a go at ordering a made to measure one off the internet. Was probably a little more expensive but not by much. It was a perfect fit and quicker to install, and no faffing about cutting material and roller. I’ve just ordered another one I was so impressed. Great video.
Oh Stuart Stuart! You make it look soooo easy! Me and my ex wife have spent many a evening back in the day fitting these god dam things. She was the brains cutting and measuring (all fine) . Made dresses and own clothes and so on. God how many times have I drilled in to the UPVC does not work. How many times have I drilled in the upper part and hit concrete RSJ or metal one! Render blown And plucked the hole with match sticks. We have spent many a night back to back in a huff with one another in bed. Thank you for this but I’m telling you now theses things are not the best invention!!😂😂😂
I have this exact problem. We installed a metal insulated lintel over the a window. I would like to fit a blind like this and I was planning to fix to the UPVC window. Any tips?
Good to see that you used a blind with metal tube. The cheap ones with cardboard tubes tend to deform after a while and then slip. IKEA also do metal tube types. One thought you did not explore was fitting the blind on the window side of the roller - gives better blackout than with blind on inside. Not always possible with all blinds. BTW I also subtracted the excess.
Another great video. Moving into a new build house I fitted a number of different blinds around the place and had so many issues with different materials in the recess. Drill through one and find steel very close above. Other a large gap suitable for plasterboard fixings. Some just solid with only a tiny gap behind plasterboard requiring some very slim fixings I made a bit of a mess with trial and error and which fixings to use
I had a form of these that were spring loaded so you just pull on the bottom to get it to raise and then pull again to stop it. They would break after awhile. I like your pulley system. Must simpler and less likely to break. I recently bought cellular blinds that are cordless and they go up and down by just lifting the bottom bar or pull the top bar down to look skyward. They are also insulating and save a lot of money in heating and air conditioning. Over the course of a couple of years, they will pay for themselves. I've my energy costs drop. Azon has them at a reasonable price roughly $30/window US. You can order them to size so no cutting required. Installation is similar to your roller except the brackets go in the middle of blind. Much easier because you don't have to protect the sides.
The beaded cord can be adjusted in the mechanism at the top prior to fitting to stop the plastic clip part being ran through the safety loop hook at the bottom too.
cheers, nice blinds. I have lots of them, but not the hardware to hang up or operate properly. have tried to buys some, never showed up after lots of backorders at the local big hardware store branch. frustrating. Love the flat ones with bottom fringe for bedrooms behind sheers & the matchstick ones that would all go so nicely with my many large houseplants...instead, 3 in garage, 6 in basement, 2 in entryway corner.
The bit you left out was, which type of fixing used to secure the holding bracket to underside of window. I assume it is hollow wall plasterboard and there are various types of fixings suitable for this, depending on the weight of the blinds. In your case the blinds look quite light so ordinary rawlplug might work but in heavier blinds you might have needed a molly bolt or spring toggle bolt.
Hi Stuart, I have been through this exercise already with our kitchen blind, and not being a confident handyperson at times I took it nice and easy, and all worked out OK, I used scissors and the trick was just to push them along the length of the material, enjoy watching all your videos, best regards to you and your family from a Kiwi living in Australia.
Best to measure the window aperture in several places as the width can vary quite a lot, especially if you live in an older house. Consider window fittings like opening trickle vents and whether you need to allow space for these (the blind can drop on either side of the metal tube - which can be steel and nasty to cut). Also, it can be worth considering made to measure blinds as they are not that expensive, have neat edges, and are quick to fit.
Not normally an issue with roller blinds as the fabric is generally around 30mm less than the recess, don't even usually need to make an allowance for partial tiling in kitchens and bathrooms for standard 1/4" tiles (only the increasingly popular thicker tiles can be an issue)
@@bantcliff That's certainly not my experience and I fitted a lot of roller blinds. Granted, my window apertures tend to vary quite a bit in width but that is not uncommon in an older property. If I took just one width measurement, then, depending on where I took it, I run the risk of having a large gap (clearly subjective but I would have thought the point of the blind is to fill the space as much as possible) or the blind binding in the recess. By taking several measurements it is possible to find a neat compromise.
For 'Blind sized' products its an issue, venetians, Romans etc. Any roller based product only needs the fixing point measuring (unless you can clearly see a huge out of square edge) I been fitting blinds for over 25 years so learnt where and what to measure depending on thebl8nd type.
@@bantcliff We are clearly going around in circles, so this will be my last comment. If the window recess is out of square, as they often are in old houses, then I would strongly advise measuring at three places, top, middle, and bottom (last particularly important where there are tiles only at the bottom), before cutting the tube and then trimming the material to fit. I have fitted enough blinds to know. Also, a quick Google on the subject gives this same advice: ruclips.net/video/9g8SYZnAJJ8/видео.html
i know this is late, but this is a great watch for anyone fitting blinds, but how on earth do you deal with lintels and not end up with drill hole's the size of a 10 p piece - !
I've got two 2.8m wide electric roller blinds to fit to our pair of bi-fold doors. They've been sat in their boxes for a month as I'm dreading doing it as going by every other window we've tried to fit blinds to, there'll be a steel lintel 5mm above the plasterboard and it'll all go pear shaped at that point.
Great video... I wish the manufacturers could have spent a few pence more to retain the metal end brackets as was the way 10 years ago for a better firmer fitting. Keep up the good work!
Hi, Great video These look similar to what i have installed ( it was supply and fit about 3 years ago organized by my wife ) Question - Some blinds ( 6 or 7 are installed in the home ) you pull the outer cord down and the blind goes up , some of them the same action makes the blind go down - any reason , is the answer simple enough to swap the string line from left to right hand side ??? Thanks George
Would be great if you could advise on snags that can arise. In my case, it's that the top face of the window opening isn't flat all the way into the corners. As a result the brackets are angled inwards. Still an excellent video, though. Thank you.
Thank you for all these clear instructions! I bought a automatic roller blind and was wondering if I could change to a roll-up device like the one you use in the video. Do you believe this is possible? (I think so) Last question: How do I remove the end caps from each side of the pole on my automatic roller blind?
Stuart, i never managed to drill properly either there is a concert girder or plaster that just crumbles every where, your suggestion for outside the window sounds better option, would i need to get some L brackets ?.
Hi good sir!, Love the tips and tricks. In particular: how to cut the aluminium tube straight and, which side to position the pully. Your great video would be even better with a few subtitles for the hearing impaired.
I recommend measure the width of your window recess at 3 points, top, middle, and bottom. Not all windows recesses, especially larger windows, are plumb. Some will have a bow in or out. Just make sure your cut will fit the whole window, from top to bottom.
Another excellent video, thank you. I didn't realise the stated width includes the brackets, that makes sense now and will use your technique next time. I have struggled to fix to top of the recess in the past because the drill hits a lintel. You didn't seem to have that issue at all?
Thanks for the great tutorial! What are the chances of there ever being wiring, pipes or gas lines in the recess above a window? (In a very old European building)
Video Idea: While listening to the news today, and the amazingly high energy prices likely to occur this winter in the UK, maybe a video on how to check that your house preeevrs as much heat as possible… and maybe some economical mods that will pay off when the cold snap comes.
If the top of the blind is central but the bottom of the blind hangs, say, too far left you can add washers or some cardboard to bring the left hand support down a tad.
I always seem to hit the concrete lintel when drilling the underside of the window opening... then the drill slides everywhere and makes a huge hole in the plasterboard
Yup, I was looking forward to a good tip for drilling through the lintel. Last time I put up blinds I drilled into the side walls of the recess rather than try to get trough the steel lintels.
I literally just asked about this. I used proper metal cutting drill bits to fit shutter blinds was a nightmare when one snapped in there. He seemed to have no troubles. I would of been a sweaty mess, 2 hours in with gaping holes everywhere
@@jameslewis4327 yeah, the problem with the steel bits is they blunt the first bit of grit they hit. Generally a masonry bit with a carbide tip works best with the hammer action turned off. If you ever get a really hard bit of steel you cant drill though with a steel bit use a carbide masonry bit. It will go though but it is a real pain.
Yes, exactly for that reason fitting roller blinds is never as easy as shown in the video. Plus, I bought a Dunelm blind 4 weeks sgo and I still don't see how the chain side works. It just locks up. A right PITA.
I’m about to fit a blind in a room, although I’m struggling incredibly with drilling into the soffit, seems the lintel is impenetrable (70’s house), and advice for trying to get through it? I’ve tried a masonry bit, metal bit, and an all purpose bit and nothing is going through 😢
Hi! Is it normal for the fabric to fall off the roll if you unroll it all the way down? I don’t know if that how cheap blinds work or if I put it back together wrong after cutting it lol
Blinds sitting in box for last 5 YEARS waiting for my husband to fit them, just did them myself, with your help!! Not the best job but 2nd one better than first. Thanks so much 😅
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
You just inspired me to tackle the job thanks 🎉
Good for you.
Over the years I’ve put up loads of blinds. And they’ve all been slightly wrong. I’m not great at DIY. This video has made me an expert! Such a simple job when you’re taking the right measurements. Thank you. Happy wife, happy life!
Been fitting blinds wrong for years after seeing this. Perfect demo and happy I came across your video 😊
Did this video help ? Lots of unknowns still for me
I bought 6 of these years ago from a yard sale for like €10 (or 10 pounds) total, they were unused and in perfect order but without instructions. I forgot about them because I also had curtains, but now I moved to another house and using them with your help saved me at least €200 because I didn't have to buy new stuff for 2 rooms. I even had the exact same floor piece element to cut on.
one of the better guides out there, there are some trash roller fitting guides out there.
If you're trimming the blind 'on site' then you can as easily fit the brackets then cut the tube to suit and finally trim the fabric to suit the tube. I fit made to measure blinds but occasionally fit readymade rollers for friends and family.
As for the child safety 'p' clip, leave some slack so it runs through easier and you can pull it away so you don't 'scrape' your knuckles, the idea is to leave it loose enough to make it easy to use but not enough for a child to get there head through.
But the best advice is to buy a made to measure blind, everything about them is of much higher quality than ready made blinds, better brackets, thicker tube, stronger, smoother clutch set. higher standard of finish.
some great tips in there. The "measure what you take off" is keeper. :)
Thanks
Is it me but no measuring was shown of the blind as a whole as that is what fits in the recess ? You cut the blind cloth to the aperture size and you won't have allowed for the end fittings
This will be my first DIY job unsupervised. Have been involved in putting them up with someone else but not drilled holes before. I am determined to become independent at this! Cutting to size is the easy bit, it's drilling the holes that will be the challenge. However, you have give some helpful tips so here goes!
Great video, I’ve fitted these exact blinds before too. I always adjust mine so that the little plastic connector on the pull cord is hard up against the top, that way you can never accidentally keep pulling on the cord, causing the blind to just roll over and over at the top.
I also usually reverse the blind so that it drops on the back side of the roller, making it even closer to the window.
I can’t tell you how helpful this video was for the blind I just put up. The sheer amount of fuck ups id have made following the pictorial instructions is unbelievable, particularly the measuring element. Thank you.
I always rewatch this video when installing blinds to remember the correct way to do it. 10/10 especially when it comes to measure and cut. Thank you
Great clear video.
My problem is always drilling the holes. The chuck and drill size means that the hole is at an angle.
Just as an added bonus I always move the connector for the draw string so that it acts as a stopper when the roller is dropped to the correct length, saves you over rolling and getting the blind hitting and collecting on the sill.
Good video, cheers
Great measuring and cutting tips. It seemed so obvious but I'd never thought of doing it that way before. Thank you!
I thank you Stuart! I am about to fit a blind next Saturday at 10AM. Most splendid correct.
Nice one!
Many thanks for the video. Got in knots thinking how I was going to cut them. Literally subtracted one number from the other and away i went cutting and they fit perfectly! Many thanks.
Just wanted to say a huge thank you ,I managed to sort my blind out because of this video ,now I'm following you ,thanks again 👍🏻
Top man. Absolutely fantastic. Your attention to detail and awareness of ergonomics is.... chef kiss 👨🍳🤌 mmmwah!! I doth my cap, kind sir 🙇♂️🙏
Stu thank you thank you thank you for mentioning the child safety clip and it's importance, so many people just take it off & don't realise that it is then not compliant and a hazard (& it doesn't matter if you don't have kids in your home or visiting you could sell the property to someone who does).
Obviously you don't need it fully blackout in the utility there but if people want it to be more blackout having it roll down the back will help and mounting outside the recess with a reasonable overlap will also help
Great Video! Protecting the wall with cardboard before drilling was a great tip. Also Subtracting the the width of the window from the width of the shade was another great idea! Thanks!
Very clear instructional video Stuart, well done! It's the fixings into the lintel can be problematic! Sometimes I've had to coat the plugs into an adhesive like no nails and let it go off before fixing the screws. Good tip about measuring the waste. Regards Keith
Good tip
Thanks for the tips. I nearly came a cropper when I followed your suggestion to measure the cloth to be removed ... I checked the amount to be used and it wasn't correct due to the cloth sides not being parallel. I had to measure the cloth used and, fortunately, that worked. Suggestion .. measure at least twice. 😁
Very funny "The Man Himself ", I liked that one, I do have a blind to fit, and this video has made it look easy, thanks for posting x❤
Great shout to prevent marking the wall Stuart . Done that a few times 🤔👍
I use my mitre saw leave it rolled up and cut through the fabric and alliminum bars, perfect every time
Thinking of buying blinds. Your video made it look super easy so I’m gonna give a go 👍🏽
Thnx
Very nice blind. Easy installation. Glad to see they have been refined and updated so I can finally address our entirely too sunny kitchen sink window and a few others in the house where the max. width of shades available for our budget at the time were a bit too short.
Go for it
Yeah it must be easy for you
I just followed your instructions and some of your simple tips made an easy job turn our perfect.
Thanks for that, easy to follow and the tip to stop marking the wall was a good one, thanks again
You’ve done it sooo smooth! Made it look easier than it is😅😂😂
Amazing, I never knew you could buy blinds that could be easily cut to size! Thank you!
Happy to help!
Nicely explained. There are companies that make made-to-measure blinds to order (including aluminium and wooden slatted Venetian blinds). Have always obtained blinds this way to get the perfect fit, especially when fitted in the window recess. Also beware hidden steel lintels immediately above the plasterboard in the recess. These can be difficult to drill through cleanly and it may be worth using a pipe detector to check if one is concealed, and if so where it protrudes to within the recess, before drilling.
8:44 8:45 8:46 8:46 8:56 😮😮😮😮😮😮
Yes, I agree, sometimes the Lintel will only allow a 5mmx20mm (or 5m x 25mm) rawl plug/screw, etc if drilling into the top of the recess, whereas if you use newer brackets they are multipurpose and will all top or side mounting, so where there is a Lintel you can opt for side mounting.
Also worth noting the brackets are made flat on one side and angled on another so when you insert the blind into the back the bracket works under tension now to hold the blind tighter in position.
I keep it all tightly rolled up and tape round my cut line and chop it all off on mitre saw. Job done 😀
Those are the exact same blinds I used to fit insides caravans a fair few years back! Honestly so easy to fix to anything well done
Thanks
On the blinds I’ve fitted over the years I’ve never been happy with the finish on the cut edge of the material - although I didn’t do it with a Stanley knife but scissors…..one lesson learnt there from your video. However, on my last blind I thought I’d give it a go at ordering a made to measure one off the internet. Was probably a little more expensive but not by much. It was a perfect fit and quicker to install, and no faffing about cutting material and roller. I’ve just ordered another one I was so impressed. Great video.
Great tip on the ‘it’s easier to measure what you don’t want rather than what you do’ !
You make everything look so easy. Last time if fitted blinds like these, I drilled into the window soffit, only to find it was plywood and hollow.
Yes can be sometimes
Oh Stuart Stuart! You make it look soooo easy! Me and my ex wife have spent many a evening back in the day fitting these god dam things. She was the brains cutting and measuring (all fine) . Made dresses and own clothes and so on. God how many times have I drilled in to the UPVC does not work. How many times have I drilled in the upper part and hit concrete RSJ or metal one! Render blown And plucked the hole with match sticks. We have spent many a night back to back in a huff with one another in bed. Thank you for this but I’m telling you now theses things are not the best invention!!😂😂😂
I have this exact problem. We installed a metal insulated lintel over the a window. I would like to fit a blind like this and I was planning to fix to the UPVC window. Any tips?
True. I've even been looking at the no drill blinds, which do not require any drilling.
Great video as always Stuart... Never though about cutting the bit you don't need.. makes so much sense (as do a lot of your videos).. Keep it up .
Thanks
Good to see that you used a blind with metal tube. The cheap ones with cardboard tubes tend to deform after a while and then slip. IKEA also do metal tube types.
One thought you did not explore was fitting the blind on the window side of the roller - gives better blackout than with blind on inside. Not always possible with all blinds.
BTW I also subtracted the excess.
Another great video. Moving into a new build house I fitted a number of different blinds around the place and had so many issues with different materials in the recess.
Drill through one and find steel very close above. Other a large gap suitable for plasterboard fixings. Some just solid with only a tiny gap behind plasterboard requiring some very slim fixings
I made a bit of a mess with trial and error and which fixings to use
I had a form of these that were spring loaded so you just pull on the bottom to get it to raise and then pull again to stop it. They would break after awhile. I like your pulley system. Must simpler and less likely to break. I recently bought cellular blinds that are cordless and they go up and down by just lifting the bottom bar or pull the top bar down to look skyward. They are also insulating and save a lot of money in heating and air conditioning. Over the course of a couple of years, they will pay for themselves. I've my energy costs drop. Azon has them at a reasonable price roughly $30/window US. You can order them to size so no cutting required. Installation is similar to your roller except the brackets go in the middle of blind. Much easier because you don't have to protect the sides.
The beaded cord can be adjusted in the mechanism at the top prior to fitting to stop the plastic clip part being ran through the safety loop hook at the bottom too.
Excellent, maybe basic for some but this is something we all will do at some point. Great tips included as usual. 😁👍👍👍
Thank you
You are an excellent teacher!
cheers, nice blinds. I have lots of them, but not the hardware to hang up or operate properly. have tried to buys some, never showed up after lots of backorders at the local big hardware store branch. frustrating. Love the flat ones with bottom fringe for bedrooms behind sheers & the matchstick ones that would all go so nicely with my many large houseplants...instead, 3 in garage, 6 in basement, 2 in entryway corner.
Excellent tutorial with lots of great tips Thank you
Voice made for audiobooks.
Good shout 👍
How about some Pratchett? Or HHGTTG
@@glynprice3815 was just coming to suggest Pratchett too. I think in my head CMOTD sounds like this
@@MikeSmith-sg9pt or Sgt Colon
The bit you left out was, which type of fixing used to secure the holding bracket to underside of window. I assume it is hollow wall plasterboard and there are various types of fixings suitable for this, depending on the weight of the blinds. In your case the blinds look quite light so ordinary rawlplug might work but in heavier blinds you might have needed a molly bolt or spring toggle bolt.
Hi Stuart, I have been through this exercise already with our kitchen blind, and not being a confident handyperson at times I took it nice and easy, and all worked out OK, I used scissors and the trick was just to push them along the length of the material, enjoy watching all your videos, best regards to you and your family from a Kiwi living in Australia.
Thanks for watching from down under
really good video, very nicely explained. thank you
Hi. Great job. Got me thinking now about these blinds for my own home. Thay look good. Some great tips to. Thanks for sharing. Cheers! 👍👌
Glad it was helpful!
Best to measure the window aperture in several places as the width can vary quite a lot, especially if you live in an older house. Consider window fittings like opening trickle vents and whether you need to allow space for these (the blind can drop on either side of the metal tube - which can be steel and nasty to cut). Also, it can be worth considering made to measure blinds as they are not that expensive, have neat edges, and are quick to fit.
Not normally an issue with roller blinds as the fabric is generally around 30mm less than the recess, don't even usually need to make an allowance for partial tiling in kitchens and bathrooms for standard 1/4" tiles (only the increasingly popular thicker tiles can be an issue)
@@bantcliff That's certainly not my experience and I fitted a lot of roller blinds. Granted, my window apertures tend to vary quite a bit in width but that is not uncommon in an older property. If I took just one width measurement, then, depending on where I took it, I run the risk of having a large gap (clearly subjective but I would have thought the point of the blind is to fill the space as much as possible) or the blind binding in the recess. By taking several measurements it is possible to find a neat compromise.
For 'Blind sized' products its an issue, venetians, Romans etc. Any roller based product only needs the fixing point measuring (unless you can clearly see a huge out of square edge)
I been fitting blinds for over 25 years so learnt where and what to measure depending on thebl8nd type.
@@bantcliff We are clearly going around in circles, so this will be my last comment. If the window recess is out of square, as they often are in old houses, then I would strongly advise measuring at three places, top, middle, and bottom (last particularly important where there are tiles only at the bottom), before cutting the tube and then trimming the material to fit. I have fitted enough blinds to know. Also, a quick Google on the subject gives this same advice: ruclips.net/video/9g8SYZnAJJ8/видео.html
i know this is late, but this is a great watch for anyone fitting blinds, but how on earth do you deal with lintels and not end up with drill hole's the size of a 10 p piece - !
Fucking nightmare. Eating any metal drill bit i buy
I've got two 2.8m wide electric roller blinds to fit to our pair of bi-fold doors. They've been sat in their boxes for a month as I'm dreading doing it as going by every other window we've tried to fit blinds to, there'll be a steel lintel 5mm above the plasterboard and it'll all go pear shaped at that point.
Thank you for a well produced instructional video.
I just fitted one with my partner. Thanks for your video. It would have been a UFC match 😂😂😂
Very good, informative video. Thank you . Jose from Australia
Excellent job, I will try this myself, thank you.
Nice one
Awesome staff indeed ❤
Great video... I wish the manufacturers could have spent a few pence more to retain the metal end brackets as was the way 10 years ago for a better firmer fitting. Keep up the good work!
When doing this, I always wish i had some really thin windows for the offcuts, I hate waste, top video yet again Stuart 😉
That did cross my mind actually with the 380mm I tool off. Unfortunately, I have nothing that thin either!
Hi, Great video
These look similar to what i have installed ( it was supply and fit about 3 years ago organized by my wife )
Question - Some blinds ( 6 or 7 are installed in the home ) you pull the outer cord down and the blind goes up , some of them the same action makes the blind go down - any reason , is the answer simple enough to swap the string line from left to right hand side ???
Thanks
George
Like the spacer idea for setting brackets and covering of wall but why not also window ?
Very resourceful and informative. Thank you.
Would be great if you could advise on snags that can arise. In my case, it's that the top face of the window opening isn't flat all the way into the corners. As a result the brackets are angled inwards. Still an excellent video, though. Thank you.
Thank you for all these clear instructions!
I bought a automatic roller blind and was wondering if I could change to a roll-up device like the one you use in the video. Do you believe this is possible? (I think so)
Last question: How do I remove the end caps from each side of the pole on my automatic roller blind?
Excellent video. Helped me a lot. Thanks
Stuart, i never managed to drill properly either there is a concert girder or plaster that just crumbles every where, your suggestion for outside the window sounds better option, would i need to get some L brackets ?.
Great video with very helpful tips. Thank you
Nice job.... All I need now is to nip to the range..... Thanks for the tips..
Hi good sir!,
Love the tips and tricks. In particular: how to cut the aluminium tube straight and, which side to position the pully. Your great video would be even better with a few subtitles for the hearing impaired.
Stupid question. Why a blackout in the kitchen? Thank you for this video. I'll be installing my own soon.
thank you. very useful ideas !
I recommend measure the width of your window recess at 3 points, top, middle, and bottom. Not all windows recesses, especially larger windows, are plumb. Some will have a bow in or out. Just make sure your cut will fit the whole window, from top to bottom.
Excellent video. Nice job 😊
Really nice video and well explained.
Very nice video thank you.....only thing I would change is fitting the chain on the right for right handed people
Another excellent video, thank you.
I didn't realise the stated width includes the brackets, that makes sense now and will use your technique next time.
I have struggled to fix to top of the recess in the past because the drill hits a lintel. You didn't seem to have that issue at all?
Same. I did what he said without the brackets as he doesn't show the brackets in the measurements ... So I had to re cut!
Nice one Stuart 👍
Thanks
Excellent video. Gave me confidence to give it a go. Can you tell me where you bought your t square from?
Superb video. Your delivery and editing is perfect
What sort of lintel did you have above the window? I have had problems fitting blinds when I have steel lintels
I have similar. Metal insulated lintel. Any tips?
Thanks for the great tutorial! What are the chances of there ever being wiring, pipes or gas lines in the recess above a window? (In a very old European building)
Great vid. Thanks. How about doing one with a wooden slated type blind. They seem very popular at the moment.
Video Idea:
While listening to the news today, and the amazingly high energy prices likely to occur this winter in the UK, maybe a video on how to check that your house preeevrs as much heat as possible… and maybe some economical mods that will pay off when the cold snap comes.
Put draft tape around your windows and doors and fit thermal blinds. That should help to keep the cold out.
Thanks 👍🏻 well explained, guess what I’m doing today 👍🏻
If the top of the blind is central but the bottom of the blind hangs, say, too far left you can add washers or some cardboard to bring the left hand support down a tad.
I always seem to hit the concrete lintel when drilling the underside of the window opening... then the drill slides everywhere and makes a huge hole in the plasterboard
Yup, I was looking forward to a good tip for drilling through the lintel. Last time I put up blinds I drilled into the side walls of the recess rather than try to get trough the steel lintels.
I literally just asked about this. I used proper metal cutting drill bits to fit shutter blinds was a nightmare when one snapped in there. He seemed to have no troubles. I would of been a sweaty mess, 2 hours in with gaping holes everywhere
@@jameslewis4327 yeah, the problem with the steel bits is they blunt the first bit of grit they hit. Generally a masonry bit with a carbide tip works best with the hammer action turned off. If you ever get a really hard bit of steel you cant drill though with a steel bit use a carbide masonry bit. It will go though but it is a real pain.
Yes, exactly for that reason fitting roller blinds is never as easy as shown in the video. Plus, I bought a Dunelm blind 4 weeks sgo and I still don't see how the chain side works. It just locks up. A right PITA.
One question I have is with the drilling of the hole, is it OK to have the holes on an angle?
Great work
As a left handed person I keep the pulley string on the right 😁
Thanks, that was a helpful video.
Thanks
I’m about to fit a blind in a room, although I’m struggling incredibly with drilling into the soffit, seems the lintel is impenetrable (70’s house), and advice for trying to get through it? I’ve tried a masonry bit, metal bit, and an all purpose bit and nothing is going through 😢
Thank you, top job and great video 🎉
Hi, is your roller at 1800mm the full size, including the chain attachment and pin attachment pushed in the ends of the top tube
Very nice video. Another piece of know how collected
Thanks
Just a quick one. Would it not be easier to cut the roller blind with a miter saw?
Hi! Is it normal for the fabric to fall off the roll if you unroll it all the way down? I don’t know if that how cheap blinds work or if I put it back together wrong after cutting it lol
Expertly done. Thank you.
I would love to see you using some L shaped upvc trunking to enclose the sides of the blinds to make it fully blacked out