Can I come in here and give you a tip. Increasingly a lot of lintels are made os stainless steel which would be completely useless for drilling with an HSS drill bit. The best drill bit to buy which covers all manner of steel lintels is the cobalt bit, I’ve used these on several occasions and find them invaluable. They’re not expensive, slightly dearer than a HSS bit but will stay sharper for a lot longer thus making them more economical.
How long have I been waiting for someone to cover this one. I've spoken to qualified builders who encourage a bodge job 🤬 Thank you, as ever, Stuart 👍🏻
Thank you for taking the time to create the mock-up, really helped with the explanation... indeed have run into this issue on a couple of occasions and the solution is much clearer now.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. *Nobody* has explained this like you, one of those things that is always skipped over. Like you did in your roller blind video! But you redeemed yourself with this. I’m about to fit a blind for my father in law tomorrow, so perfect timing.
Good suggestions, thanks. If I may add two further ones: first, having spent a lot of my life drilling steel, put some oil on the HSS drill bit. Just dip it in car engine oil. It reduces wear on the bit and speeds up the operation. Second, one option is to make a properly tapped hole in the lintel and use a machine screw (bolt), which is perfectly possible in 2mm thick metal. Drill a 5mm hole and run an M6 tap into the hole and bingo, you can use M6 bolts to hold your curtain up. Strong and also easy to dismantle and reassemble if you want to do so for future decorating, for instance.
The prop idea is very clever. Things like that are what makes your videos on another level to others. I’ve used many of you tips like the dot and dab filler when hanging a radiator on a dot and dab wall. And fixing metal back boxes into walls with filler before screwing. Thank you.
That was well worth the time spent watching; the visual aid was a welcome look behind the curtain, and, for many people no doubt, dispelled the mystery of 'The Lintel'. Thanks very much for sharing.
I tried once, I made a mess, I tried on the side walls --apparently on the wrong (void) place--, I made an even worse mess that needed a contractor to be actually fixed; I said NEVER AGAIN! But, sir, your video is making me reconsidering it... so you're really good at explaining things. Thanks for the channel!
Brilliant video stu if you can remember I commented on your video on drilling through a steel joist about the technique that shipyard drillers used to use & that was exactly the same principle as you have just demonstrated as I said before we used to call it a swage stick ýou can't beat the appliance of science! You definitely know your stuff Stu thanks again.
Good video. Gotta admit, the 2 pieces of wood trick (used as a lever to allow the drill to be pressed against the steel lintel) was brilliant. Well done!
Brilliant explanation even if some of us knew about these lintels and have fought with them in the past, I enjoyed how you used the mock-up to explain and kept it simple👏👏
You just go that extra mile Stuart by building a mock-up to explain the building construction, well done! Having spent many hours and aching arms drilling vertically it could all have been so much easier if I'd thought of a pivot! You could get another video out of this construction by showing safe methods of demolition. Regards Keith
Explained brilliantly as usual and with the added length of making a full blown mock up for a full visualisation of the situation makes it so easy to understand. Fantastic video as usual!
Thanks Stuart. I could have done with watching this in 1985 when I bought my first house. Having said that, I have got a couple of curtain rails that need to be installed, so it’s never too late. If my school teachers had explained things as well as you do I would probably have learnt more. Too late to sort my education but thanks to you, at least my house is starting to looks nice now😉
Great advice just before I'm putting up some blinds, probably the best clear video I've seen. Even builders struggle with this and end up with a hole the size of Jupiter.
Great advice. When I hung all the blinds in our house (Saving hundreds of £££s in the process) I very quickly figured out I would need a metal/steel drill bit to drill the holes due to the lintels above the windows. I found (however terrible an idea it might be) that the metal drill bits also gave a much neater hole when drilling through the plasterboard so I used one bit for the whole thing. The block work was sufficiently soft for it not to damage the bit once I was through the steel. I wish I had known about the lever technique though as it would have saved me a lot of grief with my shoulder for a few days afterwards! Work smart not hard. Great video!
This might be the best DIY video I’ve ever seen. The mock-up made clear something I’ve struggled to understand for years in different houses. Thank you.
Nice to see the evolution of the channel and the incorporation of a relevant sponsor - you are really going from strength to strength on here. Great tip about using the wood to create a pivot, but top marks have to go for the mock up window opening that you built - great to visualise the structure and to see the different elements that the drill passes through. Any tips for drilling through the hardened concrete equivalents? Absolutely top drawer work - keep it up! Mike
A reversible clamp/spreader is a great alternative to a manual lever. It provides excellent stability and consistent, increasable pressure under the drill. Just gotta take it slow and easy at the start. The wood lever is obviously the way to go if you're gonna install a single blind and retire from DIYing-no need to buy a tool for one job-but I'd bet anyone watching this channel regularly can think of a few ways to use an extra clamp!
Brilliant Stuart, as usual lots of clear and easy to understand information on something not often explained. Not only that but some really useful tips too. Of curse, all made even better by your effort of producing a fantastic mock up. Cheers.
As Stuart mentioned you may find a gap between plasterboard of up to 10mm, might be good idea to drive fixing screw in slowly so as not to crack plasterboard.
2 года назад+1
Always worth watching your videos Stuart, even if you've previously worked out your own solution. Really worth going the extra mile with the mock-up, this is what lifts your videos above the rest ! As usual a smattering of humour too for good measure, thanks Stuart, Cheers, AndyC.
Really useful video - thank you. I can't even begin to tell you how blue the air turned when I tried fixing venetian blinds to the inside of my window recess. Now I know why!
Thank you very much. This is one of the most useful, informative DIY videos I have seeen. I wish I had known this years ago. It would have saved me so many sore throats from all the swearing.
Great explanation of a perennial problem. Same applies for fitting widows and doors. I tend to use cheap drills as I prefer not to blunt my good ones which inevitably happens as they break through the steel and smack into the stone above. Also, I've found that if you use a smaller drill then you can use a self tapping screw rather than a rawlplug. I love the prop idea!
Really appreciate the time and effort you must of given to make this video. Making that wall in your workshop must of taken a bit of time. I didn't think a regular drill would be able to do that.
Good video and helpful tips for drilling the lintels - would suggest some eye protection too, as you tend to be looking up and the bits are falling, especially the metal bits which tend to be hot too.
Had exactly this problem when trying to fit a new blackout blind to my window, love the wood fulcrum idea!, worked a treat if a little taxing!😁 Many thanks for your great advice.
Cheers Stuart. I ordered blinds for a huge sliding glass door that has a concrete lintel above it. I do have a small Bosch SDS drill as well so I am in good shape. I also ordered six shades so I am going to be a busy boy. I do enjoy your expertise but also your understated English style. I am a Scot living in the US and there always seems to be too much machismo around DIY here, as though the power tools were surrogate weapons. Thanks mate!
Excellent solution using the lever, Archimedes would be proud of you. “Give me a long enough lever and somewhere to stand, and I will move the Earth.” Good Channel thank you.
Now that you've shown how to make a fixing into a cavity IG lintel. How about a Catnic lintel for solid walls which have a hollow box on the internal half. Sadly not all houses are constructed the same way, depending on age and construction rules/laws at the time of construction or additions. Some houses even have timber lintels above windows that support roofs. I'm not posting to pick fault, just to remind you there are two other main players besides cavity IG's and concrete lintels. Other than that, I liked your video, especially the use of the timbers, because it would also help the less experienced to keep the drill steady and make it less likely to snap the drill bit.
You really P- - s me off. I ruined my arm drilling upside down and you have come up with a common sense solution. After I have done the job. I follow your videos , always very clear. Thank you.
Totally brilliant, had this problem this morning hit a steel lintel, no hss drill bit and couldn’t maintain upward pressure, will redo the job now when I get new drill bit, thanks for posting!
I've had to do many fixings like this over the years and it is explained very well. The only thing I would add when drilling steel is to remember to put your drill on it's lowest speed setting #1 and make sure you're not on the hammer setting.
Is that really the case about not using the hammer setting? I can see the theory because I guess the reason you go hard and slow is to stop it moving around and bouncing off the steel.
@@vintage5532 That's right, try to keep any plaster or brick dust off your HSS drill bit as it really does blunt them very quickly. You could also dip the drill bit in WD40 to help the bit to cut easier. Hope this helps.
Fantastic video and effort. Really helpful! One thing you could have mentioned is the steel reinforced concrete lintels which have rebar running along their length. That is a nightmare to drill because you don’t know when you are hitting concrete or the steel and have to keep swapping bits. Oh and it makes your arms drop off!!
The problems I've had with metal at top of windows, I just didn't screw it,only screwed the sides to fit our shutters!! I wish I'd found your video sooner. but great for the future,thanks mate.
Great tip on using the pivot. Another tip to speed up drilling steel is to give the bit a squirt of wd40 before you start. It reduces the heat transfer to the bit, so it keeps cutting better for longer.
Another great video Stuart and on my birthday too! Getting into my sixties now, but still learning lots and this lintel session has really helped with some pending curtain fitting. Thanks and well done. Paul
I feel this! Lost a bundle of cheap drill bits this way. When I have to fit a blind or curtains with lots of holes, I'll drill two holes through the steel and use plugs as normal but I will attach some painted interior timber to the frame to give me something to attach the blinds. Normally use a bead of construction adhesive to hold the timber up in addition to screws.
Very helpful to be able to see what the steel above the window looks like. I have 6 blinds to fit in a new build and my concern is when you start drilling and hit one of the slots/holes already in the steel.
This was great. Thanks. I have endured blood sweat and tears with this very issue. We paid a guy to fit blinds and I watched with keen eyes how he was going to tackle this problem. He used self tapping screws. Not sure if this is an answer but 2 years later still up and strong!
I spend most of my days fitting into lintels and I've never used a plug into metal before. We use a 3.8mm hss bit to punch a hole then screw straight into the metal. It's much easier to get through just don't over tighten. A 3.5 bit is OK if you've a modern build which have quite thin metal but you'll be better off with a 3.8 if you can, especially if you have a girder across a larger span.
Great vid, probably best to drill holes before window ledge is painted as although paint might be dry oil based paints need 3 weeks approx to fully cure, waterbased, 1 week,
Trial and error got me to almost this point. Great tip about the drill support and lever. Next blind to fall down gets the full, Proper DIY treatment. 👌👏
Just had to drill a hole for an outdoor socket as per your other video for the pex and its through 1foot plus of 100 year old house. Bought myself the Titan from Screwfix and boom no issues. Best 65 quid ever spent.
Ahh wish I'd seen this video ages ago as have struggled multiple times with installing blinds and couldn't work out what on earth i was trying to drill into. Have got one blind left to install and have since bought a SDS too so should be better equipped now! Thanks for the superb explanation!
Really great presentation. I use the technique of drilling into the metal lintel and use self tapping screws directly into the metal lintel. Still great setup thanks.
Bought some decent dewalt drill bits to drill through my lintel.. 6 drill bits later and 1 hr later still not through first hole. 7 holes more to do. Just ordered 20 more drill bits! Your techniques have made this a bit easier on the body though. Great content!
Hi. Brilliant idea 👍. I myself have alot of trouble drilling above windows etc. At last, you've solved my frustration. Thank you for sharing. . Absolutely fantastic videos. Helped me our of so many d.i.y jobs. Top man. Cheers. 👍👌
What a great tip, I’ve struggled for years on wife nagging curtain installs around the house and with this top tip my next install where the wife just comes home with a random blind without even measuring the window first and some how they have it spot on will be a breeze to install.
I was coming across this issue in my flat, was a nightmare. The blinds would keep falling off. After watching the video, feel reassured that it was not just me facing this problem ; ) Thanks for the demonstration, well presented and easy to follow 👍
There is a much better way to secure the screw! - don’t use a raw plug. Instead simply use a screw that is 0.5mm larger than the hole/bit. Straight into the metal and it will self tap. A blind installer who had been in the business 20+ years taught me this and I have used it myself during a our self build to fit 20 very heavy blinds. Incredibly strong, never failed (In have had many using raw plugs that have slipped out of the lintel eventually). I’m actually quite glad when it’s a metal lintel now as I know it last simple and reliable. Like the level technique, although it not something I have needed with the right bit (still hard work mind). Great video 😊
Comment No: 279 Excellent Video,,, the Mock-Up setting is what people like us really need to see,,, Many Thanks for your Time and Effort-. Greetings from Australia
20 years I’ve been installing blinds and until now the ‘fitting into a bit of everything’ has been largely unexplained. Several applications of this type have been bullied through by means of SDS drill only (with plenty of sparks and blunted bits along the way) or ‘self-driller’ drywall screw, so it is most welcome to get a visual representation of what’s happening with the catnic lintel above the plasterboard. Not sure about the timber lever, but that’s more a matter of whatever works best for you. Great informative video!
As a curtain fitter I’ve never had a problem drilling through concrete or steel lintels , decent drill and bit does the job. Good video tho for the DIYer.
Great video very well explained I learnt a lot about lintels I tried the clamp method but needed three hands . The two bits of wood worked much better but as I had three windows to do I decided to screw two side flanges to the horizontal piece and bolted through the upright so it was joined and pivots which made it even easier although overkill for just one window it was easier th use than separate pieces thanks again for a brilliant video
I use a 3.5mm hss and No8 screw stright into the hole..No plugs required. works well hanging blinds... For larger openings the steel will prob be a little thicker and I use same drill but a metric scew, usually gold type which is stronger and slightly smaller than the No8.....again works well...
Excellent! 👍 Exactly the info' I've been searching YT for, having encountered the lintel when trying to put up blinds. Fingers crossed, I'll try again..!
Love the first bit about cursing and the hse is different a good sds plus bit the way to go very helpful I need u in a cupboard at home for when I get stuck
Really good channel. Very easy to understand. Keep up the good work. (I just moved in a new build and have encountered this exact issue and can absolutely related to “some swear words” 😂).
Another type of situation is a timber kit house with single block outside like just about all new builds are in Scotland & have been for years now. Our site manager said to us all our windows & doors on the inside have timber goal post. So all 3 sides are timber behind the plasterboard so you just screw in, no wall plugs or anything.
Can I come in here and give you a tip. Increasingly a lot of lintels are made os stainless steel which would be completely useless for drilling with an HSS drill bit. The best drill bit to buy which covers all manner of steel lintels is the cobalt bit, I’ve used these on several occasions and find them invaluable. They’re not expensive, slightly dearer than a HSS bit but will stay sharper for a lot longer thus making them more economical.
How long have I been waiting for someone to cover this one. I've spoken to qualified builders who encourage a bodge job 🤬
Thank you, as ever, Stuart 👍🏻
Thank you for taking the time to create the mock-up, really helped with the explanation... indeed have run into this issue on a couple of occasions and the solution is much clearer now.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. *Nobody* has explained this like you, one of those things that is always skipped over. Like you did in your roller blind video! But you redeemed yourself with this. I’m about to fit a blind for my father in law tomorrow, so perfect timing.
Good suggestions, thanks. If I may add two further ones: first, having spent a lot of my life drilling steel, put some oil on the HSS drill bit. Just dip it in car engine oil. It reduces wear on the bit and speeds up the operation. Second, one option is to make a properly tapped hole in the lintel and use a machine screw (bolt), which is perfectly possible in 2mm thick metal. Drill a 5mm hole and run an M6 tap into the hole and bingo, you can use M6 bolts to hold your curtain up. Strong and also easy to dismantle and reassemble if you want to do so for future decorating, for instance.
Yes. My approach is also to tap holes in the steel., probably no more than M4 or M5.
Great suggestion
The prop idea is very clever. Things like that are what makes your videos on another level to others. I’ve used many of you tips like the dot and dab filler when hanging a radiator on a dot and dab wall. And fixing metal back boxes into walls with filler before screwing. Thank you.
Totally agree. The dot and dab filler was a brilliant idea and I have already put that to use!
That was well worth the time spent watching; the visual aid was a welcome look behind the curtain, and, for many people no doubt, dispelled the mystery of 'The Lintel'. Thanks very much for sharing.
I tried once, I made a mess, I tried on the side walls --apparently on the wrong (void) place--, I made an even worse mess that needed a contractor to be actually fixed; I said NEVER AGAIN!
But, sir, your video is making me reconsidering it... so you're really good at explaining things. Thanks for the channel!
Brilliant video stu if you can remember I commented on your video on drilling through a steel joist about the technique that shipyard drillers used to use & that was exactly the same principle as you have just demonstrated as I said before we used to call it a swage stick ýou can't beat the appliance of science! You definitely know your stuff Stu thanks again.
I appreciate the transition from your window to the lintel mockup set!
The prop is ingenuous having struggled with this task before! Top notch content as always.
Good video. Gotta admit, the 2 pieces of wood trick (used as a lever to allow the drill to be pressed against the steel lintel) was brilliant. Well done!
Brilliant explanation even if some of us knew about these lintels and have fought with them in the past, I enjoyed how you used the mock-up to explain and kept it simple👏👏
Stuart, your channel is getting more and more informative every time I watch it, first class, well done and keep it going…..
You just go that extra mile Stuart by building a mock-up to explain the building construction, well done! Having spent many hours and aching arms drilling vertically it could all have been so much easier if I'd thought of a pivot! You could get another video out of this construction by showing safe methods of demolition. Regards Keith
Explained brilliantly as usual and with the added length of making a full blown mock up for a full visualisation of the situation makes it so easy to understand. Fantastic video as usual!
Thanks Stuart. I could have done with watching this in 1985 when I bought my first house. Having said that, I have got a couple of curtain rails that need to be installed, so it’s never too late. If my school teachers had explained things as well as you do I would probably have learnt more. Too late to sort my education but thanks to you, at least my house is starting to looks nice now😉
Great advice just before I'm putting up some blinds, probably the best clear video I've seen. Even builders struggle with this and end up with a hole the size of Jupiter.
Stuart, you are a DIYer's saviour! Was scratching my head wondering what I needed to hang a "simple" curtain rail- now I know why I failed.
Great advice. When I hung all the blinds in our house (Saving hundreds of £££s in the process) I very quickly figured out I would need a metal/steel drill bit to drill the holes due to the lintels above the windows. I found (however terrible an idea it might be) that the metal drill bits also gave a much neater hole when drilling through the plasterboard so I used one bit for the whole thing. The block work was sufficiently soft for it not to damage the bit once I was through the steel. I wish I had known about the lever technique though as it would have saved me a lot of grief with my shoulder for a few days afterwards! Work smart not hard. Great video!
This might be the best DIY video I’ve ever seen. The mock-up made clear something I’ve struggled to understand for years in different houses. Thank you.
Nice to see the evolution of the channel and the incorporation of a relevant sponsor - you are really going from strength to strength on here.
Great tip about using the wood to create a pivot, but top marks have to go for the mock up window opening that you built - great to visualise the structure and to see the different elements that the drill passes through.
Any tips for drilling through the hardened concrete equivalents?
Absolutely top drawer work - keep it up!
Mike
A reversible clamp/spreader is a great alternative to a manual lever. It provides excellent stability and consistent, increasable pressure under the drill. Just gotta take it slow and easy at the start. The wood lever is obviously the way to go if you're gonna install a single blind and retire from DIYing-no need to buy a tool for one job-but I'd bet anyone watching this channel regularly can think of a few ways to use an extra clamp!
Brilliant Stuart, as usual lots of clear and easy to understand information on something not often explained. Not only that but some really useful tips too. Of curse, all made even better by your effort of producing a fantastic mock up. Cheers.
As Stuart mentioned you may find a gap between plasterboard of up to 10mm, might be good idea to drive fixing screw in slowly so as not to crack plasterboard.
Always worth watching your videos Stuart, even if you've previously worked out your own solution.
Really worth going the extra mile with the mock-up, this is what lifts your videos above the rest !
As usual a smattering of humour too for good measure, thanks Stuart,
Cheers, AndyC.
Really useful video - thank you. I can't even begin to tell you how blue the air turned when I tried fixing venetian blinds to the inside of my window recess.
Now I know why!
Thank you very much. This is one of the most useful, informative DIY videos I have seeen. I wish I had known this years ago. It would have saved me so many sore throats from all the swearing.
Great explanation of a perennial problem. Same applies for fitting widows and doors. I tend to use cheap drills as I prefer not to blunt my good ones which inevitably happens as they break through the steel and smack into the stone above. Also, I've found that if you use a smaller drill then you can use a self tapping screw rather than a rawlplug. I love the prop idea!
Really appreciate the time and effort you must of given to make this video. Making that wall in your workshop must of taken a bit of time. I didn't think a regular drill would be able to do that.
Good video and helpful tips for drilling the lintels - would suggest some eye protection too, as you tend to be looking up and the bits are falling, especially the metal bits which tend to be hot too.
Had exactly this problem when trying to fit a new blackout blind to my window, love the wood fulcrum idea!, worked a treat if a little taxing!😁 Many thanks for your great advice.
Great video.
I have struggled many times. Never bothered going through the steel. I will try it now.
Love the lever idea. Genius.
Cheers Stuart. I ordered blinds for a huge sliding glass door that has a concrete lintel above it. I do have a small Bosch SDS drill as well so I am in good shape. I also ordered six shades so I am going to be a busy boy. I do enjoy your expertise but also your understated English style. I am a Scot living in the US and there always seems to be too much machismo around DIY here, as though the power tools were surrogate weapons. Thanks mate!
Excellent solution using the lever, Archimedes would be proud of you. “Give me a long enough lever and somewhere to stand, and I will move the Earth.” Good Channel thank you.
Well thank you very much... Ran out of excuses now. Great video, off to the DIY store this weekend and finally get this job off the list!
At last, someone showing us the bits others miss! Excellent, as usual. 😎
Now that you've shown how to make a fixing into a cavity IG lintel. How about a Catnic lintel for solid walls which have a hollow box on the internal half.
Sadly not all houses are constructed the same way, depending on age and construction rules/laws at the time of construction or additions. Some houses even have timber lintels above windows that support roofs.
I'm not posting to pick fault, just to remind you there are two other main players besides cavity IG's and concrete lintels.
Other than that, I liked your video, especially the use of the timbers, because it would also help the less experienced to keep the drill steady and make it less likely to snap the drill bit.
Thank you - extremely useful. This is something I need to do within the next few days to install some blinds.
I've always struggled drilling into steel lintels but never thought of using some mechanical pressure under the drill. Great tip.
You really P- - s me off. I ruined my arm drilling upside down and you have come up with a common sense solution. After I have done the job. I follow your videos , always very clear. Thank you.
Thanks Dave. (Sorry about your arm)
Totally brilliant, had this problem this morning hit a steel lintel, no hss drill bit and couldn’t maintain upward pressure, will redo the job now when I get new drill bit, thanks for posting!
I've had to do many fixings like this over the years and it is explained very well.
The only thing I would add when drilling steel is to remember to put your drill on it's lowest speed setting #1 and make sure you're not on the hammer setting.
Is that really the case about not using the hammer setting? I can see the theory because I guess the reason you go hard and slow is to stop it moving around and bouncing off the steel.
@@vintage5532 That's right, try to keep any plaster or brick dust off your HSS drill bit as it really does blunt them very quickly. You could also dip the drill bit in WD40 to help the bit to cut easier. Hope this helps.
@@rodhogan1342 thanks for the reply. I feel like I've heard once before about the WD-40 so I'll definitely bare that in mind too. Thanks again.
I just stumbled on this, got to put a blind up this weekend in exactly these circumstances, tks for the tutorial
Fantastic video and effort. Really helpful!
One thing you could have mentioned is the steel reinforced concrete lintels which have rebar running along their length. That is a nightmare to drill because you don’t know when you are hitting concrete or the steel and have to keep swapping bits.
Oh and it makes your arms drop off!!
Another DIY frustration fixed. Brilliant video thank you again.
The problems I've had with metal at top of windows, I just didn't screw it,only screwed the sides to fit our shutters!! I wish I'd found your video sooner. but great for the future,thanks mate.
11:07 rhymes with clucking bell .... OMG not in a million years would i have thought of this......... Thanks Stuart...
I really loved the mock up to explain the window construction. That was very informative. I also loved the lever system to help with drilling.
Great tip on using the pivot. Another tip to speed up drilling steel is to give the bit a squirt of wd40 before you start. It reduces the heat transfer to the bit, so it keeps cutting better for longer.
This has been an issue in our homes! Over the yrs Tysm for this video 👍
We fit windows & get these questions a lot about blinds & curtains as we have put fresh pvc all around the windows! Top video! 👌
Another great video Stuart and on my birthday too! Getting into my sixties now, but still learning lots and this lintel session has really helped with some pending curtain fitting. Thanks and well done. Paul
I feel this! Lost a bundle of cheap drill bits this way.
When I have to fit a blind or curtains with lots of holes, I'll drill two holes through the steel and use plugs as normal but I will attach some painted interior timber to the frame to give me something to attach the blinds. Normally use a bead of construction adhesive to hold the timber up in addition to screws.
Very helpful to be able to see what the steel above the window looks like. I have 6 blinds to fit in a new build and my concern is when you start drilling and hit one of the slots/holes already in the steel.
A really simple fix for what I have found to be a near impossible job. Top marks sir!
This was great. Thanks. I have endured blood sweat and tears with this very issue. We paid a guy to fit blinds and I watched with keen eyes how he was going to tackle this problem. He used self tapping screws. Not sure if this is an answer but 2 years later still up and strong!
I spend most of my days fitting into lintels and I've never used a plug into metal before. We use a 3.8mm hss bit to punch a hole then screw straight into the metal. It's much easier to get through just don't over tighten. A 3.5 bit is OK if you've a modern build which have quite thin metal but you'll be better off with a 3.8 if you can, especially if you have a girder across a larger span.
Great vid, probably best to drill holes before window ledge is painted as although paint might be dry oil based paints need 3 weeks approx to fully cure, waterbased, 1 week,
Trial and error got me to almost this point. Great tip about the drill support and lever. Next blind to fall down gets the full, Proper DIY treatment. 👌👏
Useful video especially being able to see the metal lintel. I'd be interested to see how concrete lintels differ.
Just had to drill a hole for an outdoor socket as per your other video for the pex and its through 1foot plus of 100 year old house. Bought myself the Titan from Screwfix and boom no issues. Best 65 quid ever spent.
Ahh wish I'd seen this video ages ago as have struggled multiple times with installing blinds and couldn't work out what on earth i was trying to drill into.
Have got one blind left to install and have since bought a SDS too so should be better equipped now! Thanks for the superb explanation!
Really great presentation. I use the technique of drilling into the metal lintel and use self tapping screws directly into the metal lintel. Still great setup thanks.
A great video which explains to me what I encountered the other day I tried to install curtains unsuccessfully. Thanks a lot.
Bought some decent dewalt drill bits to drill through my lintel.. 6 drill bits later and 1 hr later still not through first hole. 7 holes more to do. Just ordered 20 more drill bits! Your techniques have made this a bit easier on the body though. Great content!
Hi. Brilliant idea 👍. I myself have alot of trouble drilling above windows etc. At last, you've solved my frustration. Thank you for sharing. . Absolutely fantastic videos. Helped me our of so many d.i.y jobs. Top man. Cheers. 👍👌
Excellent video Stuart, practical and with your usual humorous edge. Have a good week.
Omg, wish I’d have known this a few weeks ago. Ended up attaching to the sides, rather than the top..👍
Always an easier option with window blinds - every time!
First video from this chan, first time i watch entirely an ad and i' am not in uk, and we don't have the same kind of house. Must be you then!
The next time I have to do a job like that is… tomorrow!!
Perfect timing. Thank you!
What a great tip, I’ve struggled for years on wife nagging curtain installs around the house and with this top tip my next install where the wife just comes home with a random blind without even measuring the window first and some how they have it spot on will be a breeze to install.
Is there a reason she can’t fix them herself? 🤷🏻♀️”Woman with tool box waits for no man” …..
I was coming across this issue in my flat, was a nightmare. The blinds would keep falling off. After watching the video, feel reassured that it was not just me facing this problem ; ) Thanks for the demonstration, well presented and easy to follow 👍
What an excellent channel. Best DIY channel on RUclips. Thanks.
Top tip that I learnt recently. When you put the drill bit into the Chuck turn the Chuck back one notch which locks it into place
I have heard of that. At the same time for the last 35 years I've not had a problem the traditional way.
Excellent video. The best DIY videos and advice on RUclips.
Brilliant thanks. I've struggled with exactly this problem in the past but now feel fully prepared to tackle it in the future.
Cracking video - this is something that has driven me mad on many occasions.
There is a much better way to secure the screw! - don’t use a raw plug. Instead simply use a screw that is 0.5mm larger than the hole/bit. Straight into the metal and it will self tap. A blind installer who had been in the business 20+ years taught me this and I have used it myself during a our self build to fit 20 very heavy blinds. Incredibly strong, never failed (In have had many using raw plugs that have slipped out of the lintel eventually). I’m actually quite glad when it’s a metal lintel now as I know it last simple and reliable. Like the level technique, although it not something I have needed with the right bit (still hard work mind). Great video 😊
Comment No: 279
Excellent Video,,, the Mock-Up setting is what people like us really need to see,,, Many Thanks for your Time and Effort-.
Greetings from Australia
I watch your videos all the time I find your work interesting you are so exact with your I measurements
Tony
P
Ace! Exactly my question when I watched your blind video yesterday. Cheers Stuart!
20 years I’ve been installing blinds and until now the ‘fitting into a bit of everything’ has been largely unexplained. Several applications of this type have been bullied through by means of SDS drill only (with plenty of sparks and blunted bits along the way) or ‘self-driller’ drywall screw, so it is most welcome to get a visual representation of what’s happening with the catnic lintel above the plasterboard.
Not sure about the timber lever, but that’s more a matter of whatever works best for you.
Great informative video!
Another great video. Thank you. The mock up is especially good. Can you do another one for concrete lintels?
Brilliant video, genius idea of using the 2 timbers.
As a curtain fitter I’ve never had a problem drilling through concrete or steel lintels , decent drill and bit does the job. Good video tho for the DIYer.
Great video very well explained I learnt a lot about lintels I tried the clamp method but needed three hands . The two bits of wood worked much better but as I had three windows to do I decided to screw two side flanges to the horizontal piece and bolted through the upright so it was joined and pivots which made it even easier although overkill for just one window it was easier th use than separate pieces thanks again for a brilliant video
That was a first class video - everything about it.
SDS drills are are amazing. An 18v cordless DeWalt blasted 10mm holes in concrete fence posts with ease. Sometimes you just need THE tool for the job
I use a 3.5mm hss and No8 screw stright into the hole..No plugs required. works well hanging blinds... For larger openings the steel will prob be a little thicker and I use same drill but a metric scew, usually gold type which is stronger and slightly smaller than the No8.....again works well...
Excellent! 👍 Exactly the info' I've been searching YT for, having encountered the lintel when trying to put up blinds. Fingers crossed, I'll try again..!
Thanks
Brilliant video very well explained and to show what's the other side of plaster board ..
This is just brilliant! It really does help to be able to visualise whats under all that plasterboard.
Brilliant video Stuart, so much effort and detail goes into you videos, along with your presenting and humour 👍
The lever system is genius, thanks for that
Love the first bit about cursing and the hse is different a good sds plus bit the way to go very helpful
I need u in a cupboard at home for when I get stuck
Really good channel. Very easy to understand. Keep up the good work. (I just moved in a new build and have encountered this exact issue and can absolutely related to “some swear words” 😂).
Really good tip with the two bits of wood 👍👍👍
Another type of situation is a timber kit house with single block outside like just about all new builds are in Scotland & have been for years now. Our site manager said to us all our windows & doors on the inside have timber goal post. So all 3 sides are timber behind the plasterboard so you just screw in, no wall plugs or anything.
If you do have dot and dab plasterboard I would recommend knocking the rawl plug through to the steel or using a core fix plug.
Another excellent video. This has always caused me problems. Entertaining too, as usual.
Middle of lidl drill bits will not do, i used self taping screws with the blinds in my house none have failed yet.
You mean the Aisle of Shite?