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[Nose touching - Moving AF point? ] Wanna share this with everyone: Having problems with your nose touching the touchscreen when taking photos, and you accidently changes the focus point? Yeah, Ive been there as well. Solution: Go inte the menus, settings (a gear icon with a wrench), then get down to "usage" (not sure of english name), and then "point" or "touch". There you will be able to set an offset, so when touching the nose - nothing will happen. But if you touch with your thumb, its gonna move! =)) I set mine to Offset 2. Give it a go! A bit off topic, but Joseph great tutorials is fantastic, and a good place for me to give you this info as well. Take care! =)
Hi Jo, thank you for this video. I have a G85 and I use specifically i.Dynamic in Video recording mode always! This is the biggest difference you can see. Shoot the video with off using ISO 200 and then switch i.Dynamic to HIGH and use the same ISO you are blown away by the light gathering. It's really helpful when you do vlogs outside and when you are capturing animals in harsh light situations with a high dynamic range. I have no experience with the other settings but I will try them for video. I'm not in Stills that much...but your video is great. Thank you and stay blessed
Hiya, this is quite an old video now but still very relevant & very helpful; big thanks for explaining it so well! One question please; do all of these 3 i modes affect the RAW files, or are they only applied to jpeg processing? Many thanks!
Found your video 5yrs later, but you absolutely nailed it in your explanation! Thank you so much. Incidentally I also have i.Zoom in my Z200 menu which is probably a little easier to understand, but I can't detect when this is being applied when shooting if I turn it ON.
I purchased my ew used G9 about 8 weeks ago and immediately left with only that body and 3 lenses for a month in Budapest. I ignore most of the computerized options and went t straight to "P" and turned on IS (lens and body). I will continue to relie on Pho Shop for conversion to B&W and sharpening
Great video. I do wish you would also talk about the noise created by using these settings.. also, I think you should set the exposure compensation to -2/3 or so and combine it with high i.dynamic. Also, I would like to know if the normal auto ISO prefers lower values over the i.iso when shooting static scenes.. Thanks !
Thanks for the video. I personally have i.Resolution turned on at HIGH. You can see a clear difference if you, for example, take some shots of a wooden furniture with fine textures. I have to say you should turn the "NR" noise reduction at -4 or -5 and shoot JPG of course.
thank you sir..as a man who's been shooting film since 1975 this was helpful in explaining some of the many many choices in this menu ..i appreciate your time in making this video !!
iDynamic makes a huge difference in filming (video) Dynamic Range even in older cameras from Panasonic. I use this settings enabled all the time while filming on my FZ200 - very high latittude and DR
I’m not sure when anyone would give s thumbs down! But I enjoyed it, as I’ve made the same assumptions about i-dynamic and I-resolution. I do have a question though. Is movement the only factor that differentiates auto-iso and auto-iso or are there other variables considered?
(someone *always* thumbs-down my videos. I have haters… whatcha gonna do). As far as I know, movement is the only thing that differentiates intelligent ISO. That's all the user guide says and I haven't seen anything to make me believe otherwise.
Thank you PhotoJoseph... Of all the tutorials I've watched since getting the GH5 nobody, not even the manual explains the Bars... Much appreciated... Now I know... )
Great video, going through the settings on my G90, I had absolutely no idea what these i. settings were, but your video is just explaining them so thank you.
I use the idynamic set to high for challenging dynamic range shots - espeically outdoor stuff where I have shadows and also want to keep my sky highlights from clipping. I also use it a lot for fast turn around real estate shoots where windows are involved and I dont want to use any or much light . It works brilliantly for me. For scenes without dynamic range challenges (like interviews with lighting) i turn it off
Nice. Have you tried the built-in HDR mode for real estate? I talked about it here ruclips.net/video/H35e-rQtwTU/видео.html and I've discussed it often… I suppose I should do a dedicated video to it though!
nice tip - but I am pretty much 100% video in my work . Will set up a preset for that though! I genuinely laughed at your real estate comments on the business - indeed there isnt the pile of cash in it that people think - and agents wont risk a CENT of their own money for any visionary work -however here in Australia i have a nicely curated clientele that are giving me regular work doing hero and update shoots on industrial projects worth from 5 to 100 million dollars. (new mcdonalds restaurants, service stations, industrial infrastructure builds) These clients need a super professional management and interaction but are great to have - they dont come easily though! Back on to the real estate comment - my UAV insurance broker gave me some interesting insights into the state of the business. Basically only 30% pf his client base renewed their insurance this year. The other 70% are uncontactable or have shut down their businesses. So the rush to make money flying fun remote controlled flying cameras has been and gone. Often by radio controlled plane flyers or engineers with a very analytical skill set. Not to say that those that were willing to learn quickly havent been or shouldnt be successful. A few have been. I have had to hire drone operators on 3 occasions where I couldn't fly myself (larger multi cam shoots where I was directing or operating another camera) and each and every time I was let down - either by super slow shot turn around, terrible image making (wobbly pans or shots that could have come off a painters pole) or even 1 guy losing his micro sd card 30 seconds before the start of a race (yep - he missed the shot we hired him for) The industry has rationalised and it would appear that those that have the ability to do all the other stuff a media business needs to be able to do (fast turn around, client focused, able to work to a brief, skills on the sticks, ability to mix aerials with ground based shots, mix in audio and interviews, graphics skills , client finessing skills) have hung around - while the cowboys with their low res jpegs put in as graphics and logos, dodgy edits, clipped highlights etc etc etc have found it all too hard. Just a bit of insight there to what has happened down here in oz.
Thanks for sharing, and wow on the 70% number! I'm not that surprised but still, WOW. Actually, I think the biggest surprise is that people actually go insurance haha. So you're using i.Dynamic for video; that's great to hear. Someone asked and I realized I wasn't actually sure if it applied to video or not. Thanks for letting us know!
I am sure you could shoot a normal profile and bring up the shadows in post - but i find a look in camera that achieves the communication objective and turns around fast = success. (you dont want to lose hours in post - and getting to precious about grading is the #1 way to spend lots of time on something the client does not even notice - and you end up with a result that could have been done in camera any way!!) Just be careful of noise in lower light when using high idynamic (i monitor my iso and dont go above 800 in the Gh5) and you will be fine. On another note my Insurance broker was telling me that HALF of the insured drones end up being claimed (or attempted) on - and most of them are operator error issues. I turned down hull insurance (keeping the public liability component because i dont crash , and if i do i can wear that myself ) So lots of cowboys crashing, trying to claim, going out of business. What a debacle! Most of my clients now have to sight 10 million dollars worth of public liability insurance from me before i am allowed to step onto a property to start shooting. So you got to have it - its around $1000 USD a year - but i look at it as a barrier to entry to amateur operators who would baulk at paying that - but if you ARE generating good revenue it doesnt seem so expensive. I have been using drone shots as a bit of a loss leader / business card - engineers, project managers and architects THINK they want drone shots (and they love the good ones) - but what they actually NEED is a complete communication offering with ground shots, interviews, voice over , tracked graphics, edit pacing - all those things we spend years learning to do. So the drone gets you the initial business - but the ground based shots and story development (and fast turn around, client management and servicing, responsiveness to briefs and alterations) is what keeps the clients coming back. There you go! -all the secrets of my business laid bare!!
For i.Dynamic, have a look at the exposure information and you might observer ISO and exposure values changing. That could explain the difference. In my old Nikon's, when you turned on wider DR modes, it manipulated the exposure triangle some to change what was captured by the sensor. Great explanation. Just picked up an old LX100 as a travel camera and though it lacks i.ISO, those other two had me scratching my head. Thanks!
Panasonic idynamic uses two things, 1 tonecurve compression (lower highllight lifting shadow) to fit scene in to dynamic range of the sensor( It lowers contrast acros the image. 2 changing Exposure in -1/3 or -2/3 or -1 stop down to underexpose the scene to avoid highlight blown out. So it also "helps" when using rawfiles, On auto it underexpose automatic in 1/3 stops if highlights are near to be blown in the assumption that shadows much more easy are to recover. The contrast correction isn't visible in the rawfile unless you use Silkypix (fuji/panasonic) and your camera is in the list, then using camera profile you enter a profile which actual reads the idyn and ires ánd choosen color profile(vivid, natural, custom) and apply that to your rw2 automatic. Quite neat! So in Silkypix ires and idyn and your personal jpeg settings are applied on your rw2 file so you got a great startingpoint. (just choose : color tab underneath contrast, See "profile" default natural, pull down list, and check "PhotoStyle/Camera Color. If your camera isn't listed then you don't see this option.
Thanks for keeping this around. I had a weirdly oversharpened jpeg & went to turn down/off sharpening. No menu item. I recalled this & confirmed iRes. was what I wanted. Stupid name, good camera, brilliant & useful video.
Very informative & relevant, to me & my Fz2500. I've also watched a video by Graham Hutton on this topic & dug into i.ISO in a book by ALex White on the Fz2500 as well as cking out the Panasonic manual. So I thought of a good challenge, set the camera to i.ISO & headed for the zoo to give it a test. The animals can be still, then move, be still & so on. I can attest that I had a higher # of keepers that were nice & sharp. I also used the auto-focus F F. I'll leave this on if I feel there might be subject movement. Again thanks for the vid & I have subscribed.
Great explanation of these functions, greatly appreciated Joseph. I am a relatively new G9 user (switched from Nikon D7000) and there so many great features, I am really enjoying my G9
Hi Joseph thanks for the great info you address. I do video deposition, my question to you is on the G9 how do I remove the black background behind the date time stamp
Thank you,I have a Panasonic LX100 on order,I was looking for a video like this.I have a Nikon D3200 and lenes,I was looking for something smaller and good in low light.
Thank you for the video, very helpfull. Can you help me understand when you use the difraction compensation in the camera settings? Do you set it on or not? Thanks
I vote for iDynamic with RAWs.. it's definitely preserving the highs and giving more meaningful content (good if you framed the shot well, bad if you only care about the plant)
Hello. As I was watching you go through the I. Dynamic RAW and JPEG shots, it seemed to me as it worked in the opposite as the JPEG. The JPEG brought the detail up as the change in setting went from off to high. However, on the RAW file shots it looked to me as though the low brought slightly more detail and lost it as the shots went to high. It could just be me though. Thanks
@@photojoseph Darn it, I purchased mine from UK Jessops and I only got the camera & lens & strap! No lens hood😭! I'm searching the internet & I can't find one anywhere! HELP PLEASE✌✌✌
thanks for the informative video, may I ask you a question? it's about HDR shooting with the FZ1000 - so I mean shooting auto bracketed pictures for creating an HDR picture on a PC later not the integrated HDR function of the camera - do you recommend in that case also the i.ISO or put the ISO to the lowest for best details? and the i.Dynamik on or off when creating HDR anyway? thanks and kind regards
Interesting question. I think for the cleanest merge you should disable the i features so there’s consistency across the shots. But also I think no one would be able to tell the difference if you didn’t.
Hello Joseph, Thank you very much for doing this videos! I just subscribe because they are amazing! I was wondering if you could do a video about speed light for the G9 I have been researching a lot an I just can’t find something that gives me the confidence to buy it. Thanks again!
I have troubles with flickering with my GH5 when taking Timelapses which didn't happen before and just started on every shot I'm taking now. U guys think a contrast flickering could occur because of i.Resolution set to auto? Or does anyone has a hint for me what else could cause it? (Shooting in manual mode only)
Hi Joseph! I hope you are reading the comments to your old videos as well :) To explain a bit why I am adding a comment to a 3 years old video now: I´ve recently bought a second-hand Lumix GX8 and am exploring the settings / bumped into these settings. Thanks for explaining them, it is very useful as the manual really does not tell you a lot! I have a question though related to the i.Resolution/ sharpening function. In the Picture Mode settings (standard, vivid, natural, etc), there is an option to adjust contrast, SHARPNESS, noise reduction and saturation of the image that will be taken. Is this adjustment in the picture mode the same as the i.Resolution, or does it apply something completely different? Any idea? Thanks a lot in advance.
Totally different. Those are basically fine tuning the JPEG image. If you’re shootings RAW and adjusting in Lightroom or whatever app you’re using, then don’t worry about these. But if you’re shouting RAW+JPEG or just JPEG then those settings will affect the JPEG.
@@photojoseph Thanks a lot, Joe. Makes (more) sense now. I guess (as always) trying, testing, using it will make it even clearer, but one needs the basic info to start off. Thanks again!
Id like to see better examples than the cloud photo for idynamic- dynamic range is a huge criticism of MFT sensors and Id like to see if this feature really makes a difference.
PhotoJoseph best way to set it up for photography, in low light situation, best custom short cuts etc. I know, the differences between the G9 and GX8 aren't that drastic but would help me out alot and no doubt many others who use it. Love you channel btw, very informative
Joseph, LOVE your channel and content! Great stuff here, on one of those topics where some of us didn't understand a setting, therefore didn't use it. Use it now! Thank you, so much! On a separate note, may I offer a small critique... specifically, when you talk you have a tendency to speed through a part of a sentence, then swallow your words, an example of this at 8:11. "It's only going to apply at the ..." I have a great difficulty is understanding you, your cadence is very brisk, and your voice falls off. This sometime requires me to backtrack in the video to catch your words. Your audio gain sounds like it is too dynamic, perhaps. Anyway, if you could slow down a bit, pause between sentences... maybe take a breath.... your content would be nothing short of perfection. Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback. I know I talk fast, and sometimes go too fast when I feel like the show is going too long. This is a pretty old show; I've adjusted the format a bit since then. Thanks for watching!!
The raw effect is not curious at all it will apply slightly just like when importing into lightroom RAW photos also are changed slightly for various reasons
The better to hear you with, my dear. Oh, sorry… 😁😁😁 So I can hear what you (the audience) hears. If I’m doing anything on my computer / iPad they makes sound, I need to hear it. I also hear myself. This allows me to know if there are any problems; did a mic go out, are you hearing sound you shouldn’t, am I getting radio interference or clothes movement, that sort of thing.
@@photojoseph gotcha, makes sense now. On another note, its so amazing to get a response. Watching people on youtube kind of makes me think of you like a movie star, so it feels like a brush with fame to get a response. And, on another note, if you're still reading, I've learned so much from you and your live stream, I work in sales and using Skype/zoom/webex and I have had to learn how to be "live on camera" 8 hours a day 5 days a week. Its interesting how the skill of a live streamer is now overlapping with people who would have formerly spent a lot of time on the phone as part of their job.
Thank you I appreciate that. I’ll continue to respond to as many messages as I can; obviously for someone with millions of subs that’s impossible, but at my 20k I can handle it still (usually). I’m glad I’ve been able to help, and yeah I get what you’re saying. Being on camera for any reason is a whole new skill set and it’s one more and more people are needing. Thanks again!
Isn't the idea to always get the cleanest image? I always try to get the lowest iso possible. I felt like when you were using intelligent iso. The camera went way to high. 😅 I don't know what think about this mode. But thanks for explaining every different mode.
I thought this was pretty clear… if it kept the lower ISO then there would have been motion blur. It adjusted ISO to get a shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion since it detected motion.
^great video and super important subject. However, think about: there are people around the world for which English is not a no.1 Language. So please speak with normal speed and make a break between the sentences. Sure, you will get more subscribers around the world. good luck
Or, you listen too slow? 😂😂 Kidding sorry, couldn’t resist. I do talk fast, but the playback speed feature works really well on RUclips too. Give it a shot! And thanks for watching.
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[Nose touching - Moving AF point? ] Wanna share this with everyone: Having problems with your nose touching the touchscreen when taking photos, and you accidently changes the focus point? Yeah, Ive been there as well. Solution: Go inte the menus, settings (a gear icon with a wrench), then get down to "usage" (not sure of english name), and then "point" or "touch". There you will be able to set an offset, so when touching the nose - nothing will happen. But if you touch with your thumb, its gonna move! =)) I set mine to Offset 2. Give it a go! A bit off topic, but Joseph great tutorials is fantastic, and a good place for me to give you this info as well. Take care! =)
Hi Jo, thank you for this video. I have a G85 and I use specifically i.Dynamic in Video recording mode always! This is the biggest difference you can see. Shoot the video with off using ISO 200 and then switch i.Dynamic to HIGH and use the same ISO you are blown away by the light gathering.
It's really helpful when you do vlogs outside and when you are capturing animals in harsh light situations with a high dynamic range. I have no experience with the other settings but I will try them for video. I'm not in Stills that much...but your video is great. Thank you and stay blessed
Awesome, thanks for sharing that. That's the cool thing about these features… there are often many ways and reasons to use them!
Thank you Joe!! I’m going to stop the research here about these confusing settings. Watching your video answered ALL my questions!
Hiya, this is quite an old video now but still very relevant & very helpful; big thanks for explaining it so well!
One question please; do all of these 3 i modes affect the RAW files, or are they only applied to jpeg processing?
Many thanks!
Found your video 5yrs later, but you absolutely nailed it in your explanation! Thank you so much. Incidentally I also have i.Zoom in my Z200 menu which is probably a little easier to understand, but I can't detect when this is being applied when shooting if I turn it ON.
I purchased my ew used G9 about 8 weeks ago and immediately left with only that body and 3 lenses for a month in Budapest. I ignore most of the computerized options and went t straight to "P" and turned on IS (lens and body). I will continue to relie on Pho Shop for conversion to B&W and sharpening
Hope you got some great photos!
Thanks Joseph! This was an incredibly useful and educational video. Particularly with the lack of detail in the manual.
Great video. I do wish you would also talk about the noise created by using these settings.. also, I think you should set the exposure compensation to -2/3 or so and combine it with high i.dynamic.
Also, I would like to know if the normal auto ISO prefers lower values over the i.iso when shooting static scenes..
Thanks !
Thanks for the video. I personally have i.Resolution turned on at HIGH. You can see a clear difference if you, for example, take some shots of a wooden furniture with fine textures. I have to say you should turn the "NR" noise reduction at -4 or -5 and shoot JPG of course.
it doesn't make Sense to Even Bother Turning On NR// IF Your Planning On Setting NR TO 4-- Or 5-- LOL Just Leave it Off
thank you sir..as a man who's been shooting film since 1975 this was helpful in explaining some of the many many choices in this menu ..i appreciate your time in making this video !!
Job well done, I was never sure what they actually did.
iDynamic makes a huge difference in filming (video) Dynamic Range even in older cameras from Panasonic. I use this settings enabled all the time while filming on my FZ200 - very high latittude and DR
Nice!
Can idynamic and highlight shadow adjustment feature in lumix cameras work together?
I’m not sure when anyone would give s thumbs down! But I enjoyed it, as I’ve made the same assumptions about i-dynamic and I-resolution. I do have a question though. Is movement the only factor that differentiates auto-iso and auto-iso or are there other variables considered?
(someone *always* thumbs-down my videos. I have haters… whatcha gonna do). As far as I know, movement is the only thing that differentiates intelligent ISO. That's all the user guide says and I haven't seen anything to make me believe otherwise.
Would you please explain the different the various symbols for RAW? there is RAW , two bars & one bar thank you
Bars? Do you mean the squares? Squares are JPEG; fewer squares is lower resolution. RAW and squares means RAW+JPEG
Thank you PhotoJoseph... Of all the tutorials I've watched since getting the GH5 nobody, not even the manual explains the Bars... Much appreciated... Now I know... )
Great video, going through the settings on my G90, I had absolutely no idea what these i. settings were, but your video is just explaining them so thank you.
I use the idynamic set to high for challenging dynamic range shots - espeically outdoor stuff where I have shadows and also want to keep my sky highlights from clipping. I also use it a lot for fast turn around real estate shoots where windows are involved and I dont want to use any or much light . It works brilliantly for me. For scenes without dynamic range challenges (like interviews with lighting) i turn it off
for video - not for stills
Nice. Have you tried the built-in HDR mode for real estate? I talked about it here ruclips.net/video/H35e-rQtwTU/видео.html and I've discussed it often… I suppose I should do a dedicated video to it though!
nice tip - but I am pretty much 100% video in my work . Will set up a preset for that though! I genuinely laughed at your real estate comments on the business - indeed there isnt the pile of cash in it that people think - and agents wont risk a CENT of their own money for any visionary work -however here in Australia i have a nicely curated clientele that are giving me regular work doing hero and update shoots on industrial projects worth from 5 to 100 million dollars. (new mcdonalds restaurants, service stations, industrial infrastructure builds) These clients need a super professional management and interaction but are great to have - they dont come easily though!
Back on to the real estate comment - my UAV insurance broker gave me some interesting insights into the state of the business. Basically only 30% pf his client base renewed their insurance this year. The other 70% are uncontactable or have shut down their businesses.
So the rush to make money flying fun remote controlled flying cameras has been and gone. Often by radio controlled plane flyers or engineers with a very analytical skill set. Not to say that those that were willing to learn quickly havent been or shouldnt be successful. A few have been.
I have had to hire drone operators on 3 occasions where I couldn't fly myself (larger multi cam shoots where I was directing or operating another camera) and each and every time I was let down - either by super slow shot turn around, terrible image making (wobbly pans or shots that could have come off a painters pole) or even 1 guy losing his micro sd card 30 seconds before the start of a race (yep - he missed the shot we hired him for)
The industry has rationalised and it would appear that those that have the ability to do all the other stuff a media business needs to be able to do (fast turn around, client focused, able to work to a brief, skills on the sticks, ability to mix aerials with ground based shots, mix in audio and interviews, graphics skills , client finessing skills) have hung around - while the cowboys with their low res jpegs put in as graphics and logos, dodgy edits, clipped highlights etc etc etc have found it all too hard.
Just a bit of insight there to what has happened down here in oz.
Thanks for sharing, and wow on the 70% number! I'm not that surprised but still, WOW. Actually, I think the biggest surprise is that people actually go insurance haha.
So you're using i.Dynamic for video; that's great to hear. Someone asked and I realized I wasn't actually sure if it applied to video or not. Thanks for letting us know!
I am sure you could shoot a normal profile and bring up the shadows in post - but i find a look in camera that achieves the communication objective and turns around fast = success. (you dont want to lose hours in post - and getting to precious about grading is the #1 way to spend lots of time on something the client does not even notice - and you end up with a result that could have been done in camera any way!!)
Just be careful of noise in lower light when using high idynamic (i monitor my iso and dont go above 800 in the Gh5) and you will be fine.
On another note my Insurance broker was telling me that HALF of the insured drones end up being claimed (or attempted) on - and most of them are operator error issues.
I turned down hull insurance (keeping the public liability component because i dont crash , and if i do i can wear that myself ) So lots of cowboys crashing, trying to claim, going out of business. What a debacle!
Most of my clients now have to sight 10 million dollars worth of public liability insurance from me before i am allowed to step onto a property to start shooting. So you got to have it - its around $1000 USD a year - but i look at it as a barrier to entry to amateur operators who would baulk at paying that - but if you ARE generating good revenue it doesnt seem so expensive.
I have been using drone shots as a bit of a loss leader / business card - engineers, project managers and architects THINK they want drone shots (and they love the good ones) - but what they actually NEED is a complete communication offering with ground shots, interviews, voice over , tracked graphics, edit pacing - all those things we spend years learning to do. So the drone gets you the initial business - but the ground based shots and story development (and fast turn around, client management and servicing, responsiveness to briefs and alterations) is what keeps the clients coming back. There you go! -all the secrets of my business laid bare!!
Great explanations. I always wondered what they would do. Time to go play. Thanks
Glad you found the video!
For gh5, does idynamic when used increases noise level?
For i.Dynamic, have a look at the exposure information and you might observer ISO and exposure values changing. That could explain the difference. In my old Nikon's, when you turned on wider DR modes, it manipulated the exposure triangle some to change what was captured by the sensor.
Great explanation. Just picked up an old LX100 as a travel camera and though it lacks i.ISO, those other two had me scratching my head. Thanks!
My bad on the i.ISO. The LX100 does have it.
Panasonic idynamic uses two things, 1 tonecurve compression (lower highllight lifting shadow) to fit scene in to dynamic range of the sensor( It lowers contrast acros the image. 2 changing Exposure in -1/3 or -2/3 or -1 stop down to underexpose the scene to avoid highlight blown out.
So it also "helps" when using rawfiles, On auto it underexpose automatic in 1/3 stops if highlights are near to be blown in the assumption that shadows much more easy are to recover. The contrast correction isn't visible in the rawfile unless you use Silkypix (fuji/panasonic) and your camera is in the list, then using camera profile you enter a profile which actual reads the idyn and ires ánd choosen color profile(vivid, natural, custom) and apply that to your rw2 automatic. Quite neat! So in Silkypix ires and idyn and your personal jpeg settings are applied on your rw2 file so you got a great startingpoint. (just choose : color tab underneath contrast, See "profile" default natural, pull down list, and check "PhotoStyle/Camera Color. If your camera isn't listed then you don't see this option.
Thanks for keeping this around. I had a weirdly oversharpened jpeg & went to turn down/off sharpening. No menu item. I recalled this & confirmed iRes. was what I wanted. Stupid name, good camera, brilliant & useful video.
Glad it helped, that's awesome!
I found my G9 to be too noisy at iso 800 and of course in higher iso. Panasonic claims that we can go up to 3200 without too much grain. Any advise .
Maybe the raw images are taken so that the camera can do calculations based on the variance between the images.
Very informative & relevant, to me & my Fz2500. I've also watched a video by Graham Hutton on this topic & dug into i.ISO in a book by ALex White on the Fz2500 as well as cking out the Panasonic manual. So I thought of a good challenge, set the camera to i.ISO & headed for the zoo to give it a test. The animals can be still, then move, be still & so on. I can attest that I had a higher # of keepers that were nice & sharp. I also used the auto-focus F F. I'll leave this on if I feel there might be subject movement. Again thanks for the vid & I have subscribed.
Great explanation of these functions, greatly appreciated Joseph. I am a relatively new G9 user (switched from Nikon D7000) and there so many great features, I am really enjoying my G9
Awesome thanks! And welcome to the LUMIX family.
Is iResolution what some apps call "structure"?
Hi Joseph thanks for the great info you address.
I do video deposition, my question to you is on the G9 how do I remove the black background behind the date time stamp
I’ve never used that feature but if there isn’t an option to do it in the menu then I’m sure you can’t.
Hi Joseph, I use my GH2 for video only, does i dynamic and i resolution work for video too or is it just for stills? , still confused.....
Same question
DO YOU HAVE THE I. ISO ON THE S1R ?
Thank you,I have a Panasonic LX100 on order,I was looking for a video like this.I have a Nikon D3200 and lenes,I was looking for something smaller and good in low light.
The LX100 is a really nice little camera, I hope you enjoy it!
@@photojoseph I've been taking pitcures with it both inside & outside,with flash & with out flash.Great little camera I realy like it.
Fujifilm's Dynamic Range enhancers affect RAW.
Very helpful thank you.
you're welcome!
Just bought my first lumix camera, gx 85. I have a question, is i.ISO will ignore iso limit setup ?
Mark Salendu good question!!
@@rjkral Yeah... but no reply, so I guess we have to test... Didn't yet, just got the zs200.
thanks! great explanation!
Basically a t a v mode like on pentax . My personal experience is that it does not work half as good as the Pentax and Ricoh ones
Really good explanations and examples. Thank you!
Thank you for the video, very helpfull.
Can you help me understand when you use the difraction compensation in the camera settings? Do you set it on or not?
Thanks
Cool video man.
How do You access HDR photo mode in GX80/85? Can’t figure out for some reasons. All suggestions much appreciated.
I don’t recall that that camera has it. And it’d be HLG, not HDR. It’s be a color profile. Am I misunderstanding?
@@photojoseph no. It has HDR option but it could not be applied/accessed when i.Resolution option in menu it's turn on.
@@NowyKurs oh interesting. It’s been a while since I used that camera. Well there’s your answer then; it doesn’t work when i.Resolution is on!
I vote for iDynamic with RAWs.. it's definitely preserving the highs and giving more meaningful content (good if you framed the shot well, bad if you only care about the plant)
is this works for video mode?? sorry I'm newbie for lumix user..thx
yes, just not vlog
Top Drawer, wish I'd watched this sooner. Thanks.
Thanks!
Thanks for the clarifications. 👍
Hello. As I was watching you go through the I. Dynamic RAW and JPEG shots, it seemed to me as it worked in the opposite as the JPEG. The JPEG brought the detail up as the change in setting went from off to high. However, on the RAW file shots it looked to me as though the low brought slightly more detail and lost it as the shots went to high. It could just be me though. Thanks
Where did you get your "square" lens hood for your Lumix gx80/85 please😊, I can only find the circle ones!
That must be the 25mm lens. It's what it comes with; not a special order
@@photojoseph Darn it, I purchased mine from UK Jessops and I only got the camera & lens & strap! No lens hood😭! I'm searching the internet & I can't find one anywhere! HELP PLEASE✌✌✌
You bought the 25mm Leica f/1.4 and it didn't come with the square hood?
thanks for the informative video, may I ask you a question? it's about HDR shooting with the FZ1000 - so I mean shooting auto bracketed pictures for creating an HDR picture on a PC later not the integrated HDR function of the camera - do you recommend in that case also the i.ISO or put the ISO to the lowest for best details? and the i.Dynamik on or off when creating HDR anyway? thanks and kind regards
Interesting question. I think for the cleanest merge you should disable the i features so there’s consistency across the shots. But also I think no one would be able to tell the difference if you didn’t.
Do you have any idea how to turn off the focus assist (red light beam) in the iAuto mode?
Thank you
It may not be disable-able in the full auto modes. Find the menu to disable it in regular modes and see if it is available when in iAuto
Thank you for your reply. From the manual I read that focus assist does not work if the camera is set to silent.
I tried and it worked
@@hamadmfd Thank you for the tip.
Anyone know what soundtrack he used in the intro? I love it
I've had it so long I don't even remember where it came from, sorry
@@photojoseph bugger, thanks anyway!
Hello Joseph, Thank you very much for doing this videos! I just subscribe because they are amazing!
I was wondering if you could do a video about speed light for the G9 I have been researching a lot an I just can’t find something that gives me the confidence to buy it.
Thanks again!
Thanks! Try these: photojoseph.com/all?type=1&type=1&app_id=All&hardware_id=978#.W6o4PBZlDDs
I have troubles with flickering with my GH5 when taking Timelapses which didn't happen before and just started on every shot I'm taking now. U guys think a contrast flickering could occur because of i.Resolution set to auto? Or does anyone has a hint for me what else could cause it? (Shooting in manual mode only)
Finally someone with the answers!
Hi Joseph! I hope you are reading the comments to your old videos as well :) To explain a bit why I am adding a comment to a 3 years old video now: I´ve recently bought a second-hand Lumix GX8 and am exploring the settings / bumped into these settings. Thanks for explaining them, it is very useful as the manual really does not tell you a lot! I have a question though related to the i.Resolution/ sharpening function. In the Picture Mode settings (standard, vivid, natural, etc), there is an option to adjust contrast, SHARPNESS, noise reduction and saturation of the image that will be taken. Is this adjustment in the picture mode the same as the i.Resolution, or does it apply something completely different? Any idea? Thanks a lot in advance.
Totally different. Those are basically fine tuning the JPEG image. If you’re shootings RAW and adjusting in Lightroom or whatever app you’re using, then don’t worry about these. But if you’re shouting RAW+JPEG or just JPEG then those settings will affect the JPEG.
@@photojoseph Thanks a lot, Joe. Makes (more) sense now. I guess (as always) trying, testing, using it will make it even clearer, but one needs the basic info to start off. Thanks again!
Id like to see better examples than the cloud photo for idynamic- dynamic range is a huge criticism of MFT sensors and Id like to see if this feature really makes a difference.
Great video. Would you consider doing a tutorial on the GX8???
What do you want to know?
PhotoJoseph best way to set it up for photography, in low light situation, best custom short cuts etc. I know, the differences between the G9 and GX8 aren't that drastic but would help me out alot and no doubt many others who use it. Love you channel btw, very informative
Symz G there's not 5axis stabilizer
Joseph, LOVE your channel and content! Great stuff here, on one of those topics where some of us didn't understand a setting, therefore didn't use it. Use it now! Thank you, so much! On a separate note, may I offer a small critique... specifically, when you talk you have a tendency to speed through a part of a sentence, then swallow your words, an example of this at 8:11. "It's only going to apply at the ..." I have a great difficulty is understanding you, your cadence is very brisk, and your voice falls off. This sometime requires me to backtrack in the video to catch your words. Your audio gain sounds like it is too dynamic, perhaps. Anyway, if you could slow down a bit, pause between sentences... maybe take a breath.... your content would be nothing short of perfection. Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback. I know I talk fast, and sometimes go too fast when I feel like the show is going too long. This is a pretty old show; I've adjusted the format a bit since then. Thanks for watching!!
you can see the shutter speed changed in the raw i.dynamic
Yeah, I'm wondering if they do this for calculation purposes.
The raw effect is not curious at all it will apply slightly just like when importing into lightroom RAW photos also are changed slightly for various reasons
i dynamic raw: your (the camera changed the) exposure changed slightly(look at the metadata)..
Always one person like you
Omg...wow. im give you sub for this video:)
i.Happy now.
Why do you wear the in ear monitors ?
The better to hear you with, my dear. Oh, sorry… 😁😁😁 So I can hear what you (the audience) hears. If I’m doing anything on my computer / iPad they makes sound, I need to hear it. I also hear myself. This allows me to know if there are any problems; did a mic go out, are you hearing sound you shouldn’t, am I getting radio interference or clothes movement, that sort of thing.
@@photojoseph gotcha, makes sense now. On another note, its so amazing to get a response. Watching people on youtube kind of makes me think of you like a movie star, so it feels like a brush with fame to get a response. And, on another note, if you're still reading, I've learned so much from you and your live stream, I work in sales and using Skype/zoom/webex and I have had to learn how to be "live on camera" 8 hours a day 5 days a week. Its interesting how the skill of a live streamer is now overlapping with people who would have formerly spent a lot of time on the phone as part of their job.
Thank you I appreciate that. I’ll continue to respond to as many messages as I can; obviously for someone with millions of subs that’s impossible, but at my 20k I can handle it still (usually). I’m glad I’ve been able to help, and yeah I get what you’re saying. Being on camera for any reason is a whole new skill set and it’s one more and more people are needing. Thanks again!
I-Dynamic does apply to RAW.
Isn't the idea to always get the cleanest image? I always try to get the lowest iso possible. I felt like when you were using intelligent iso. The camera went way to high. 😅 I don't know what think about this mode. But thanks for explaining every different mode.
I thought this was pretty clear… if it kept the lower ISO then there would have been motion blur. It adjusted ISO to get a shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion since it detected motion.
Maybe he means that your static i-iso could have been lowered to 200 rather than than 400
You are truly missing the point of this video.
So you’re Panasonic’s only customer? That’s news to me!
PhotoJoseph I like your channel but please don’t be so dismissive. Most of these are valid comments.
Dude! Love your stuff! But you talk really, really fast - and I'm from north of the Mason Dixon line!
Yeah… I do!
Great👍
i.Dynamic doesn't work with RAW
You need some lights given those high ISOs in a studio.
Uh, this was done lower light to show the feature…
^great video and super important subject. However, think about: there are people around the world for which English is not a no.1 Language. So please speak with normal speed and make a break between the sentences. Sure, you will get more subscribers around the world. good luck
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$
Please, please, calm down a little bit!
Billion explanation !!! 😂
No reason NOT to shoot RAW + JPEG.
Well there's a reason I want to be able to process on a mobile device as quickly as possible I don't want to sit behind a computer for four hours
Slow down on you speech. You talk way too fast for me. 😢
Come on Joseph, skip the damn “dot” already!!! It’s just I-resolution, I-dynamic, and I-iso...
You talk far too fast!
Or, you listen too slow? 😂😂 Kidding sorry, couldn’t resist. I do talk fast, but the playback speed feature works really well on RUclips too. Give it a shot! And thanks for watching.
I've never heard anyone else use such a blizzard of words to get their point across. You should be concise and talk slower.