00:00 Introduction 01:15 history of driving lamps; halogen to LED 03:28 how do halogens, HID and LEDs actually work? 06:50 what is a lumen 08:40 CRI - Colour Rendering Index explained 10:24 is there any reason to buy anything other than an LED light? 13:28 what's the best lights for a touring 4X4 owner? 16:10 rear vs forward facing LEDs 18:25 what's the minimum acceptable CRI for lights? 21:17 are LEDs more suited to flood or spot? 22:44 key points for buying driving lights 23:09 the importance of colour temperature 24:45 is the the case more lumens the better? 26:30 what's a lux and why is it important? 29:20 effect of age on night vision 30:30 laser lighting 32:03 spotlights vs lightbars - which one when? 38:03 how is CANBUS causing problems with lights? 39:33 how do the Linear series differ from the standard series? 41:30 importance of long distance driving lights...or not! 42:15 differing rules across states for lights 42:42 how do you achieve low weight with strength?
Ben was definitely selling his lights, but he wasn't at all annoying about it, just calm and confident. I think I'll have to check them out. Thanks for respecting the audience. Blessings!
Robert, It takes me back to the days of 8" Marchal's on the front bumper and two bulb (H1) headlights! You wired the headlights so both bulbs worked on high beam (relays) and a separate circuit for the spots (triggered by high beam). On a Subaru ;) I like the idea of a roof mounted bar for my wagon. Thanks for posting this!
Just put a Lazer linear elite 18 on the bullbar of my Grenadier. Early days and no country driving yet. But so far very impressed from a relatively small and slim bar.
Thank you for an excellent video. After much deliberation, I installed FYRLYT halogen on my 76 series over LED. The deal breaker for me was they’re softer on the eye and less tiring for extended night driving and, wildlife stands out more because you don’t lose colour. Also, they’re Aussie made. Had I chosen LED, I would have looked at this company. Cheers
@@L2SFBC Halogen is well know for being softer (easier) on the eyes because of the higher CRI, once you start to lose CRI it puts stress on your eyes, LED are getting higher CRI but until they can reach 100 CRI Halogen will always be a more pleasing light to drive with.
LED advantage over Halogen or HID lights may be obvious and it was suggested that one should always choose LED over those other lights, however, there were no discussion about how they differ in price. If HID can do the job and do it cheaper vs. some LED which is slightly better, the HID will still be a better choice overall, especially if the price difference is 3x or more.
@@L2SFBC That is what I wanted to hear in the interview, because I do not know what is the difference for today. When LEDs came they were significantly more expensive compared to everything else, but they are definitely cheaper now, but it is difficult to say by how much without doing some research.
@@L2SFBC but nobody discussed the price differences. Maybe I would choose a second alternator, an extra pound of wire, and just keep adding cheap halogens at 100 CRI until I've got all the light I want? It's a reasonable comparison.
At last we have an expert who tells it like it is. This bloke has just explained why I have a pair of Fyrlyt Nemesis lights. Yes, they draw a bit more juice, but they have a CRI of 100 and at 250 watts each, they give me a superior form of light than the LED and HID lights I've tried in the past. Your electrical system should be able to cope with the draw of 500 watts of light...actually it's more like 700+ watts, because the factory headlights (low and high beam) on the Silverado are also functioning whenever the Fyrlyts are on. Yes, I do run a 370 amp Mechman alternator, but that's more because of all the other stuff I run. Batteries under the bonnet comprise 2x Lithiumax Race9 for the starter batteries and a Amptron 100ah lithium in the canopy for fridge etc.
He washed over CRI pretty quickly which was disappointing, I don't know the specs on output vs power vs whatever else but you can get some pretty good 95 CRI LED torches with good light output for not a lot of money so I can't see it being a big deal to package that into a driving light. I bought some cheap Ulanzi 'Vlogging' lights from Aliexpress, 95CRI battery powered LED lights to see if the hype is real and you do get a better sense of colours over a normal LED worklight. doing something like wiring, a black/red wire looks black/red, not black/brown for example. High CRI LEDS have a lot more balanced output with respect to light wavelengths, where typical high output LEDS are more in the blue spectrum, which is where FYRLYT aims most of its sales pitch (blue reflects off dust etc more harshly) Whether high CRI would help with obstacle recognition or fatigue is above my paygrade (and it's a different subject to light colour temperature) and I guess if it was a thing one of the high end companies or OEM headlight makers would of jumped onto it by now, but it would be interesting to try.
A cynical person might think that big numbers in lumens and distance graphs measured in trips to the moon and back sell more lights than hey look at how nice this roo's fur looks as it bounces in front of you. Bright certainly helps in seeing obstacles at a distance where its colour doesn't matter, I wonder if there could be an advantage in high CRI slow 4wding at night with terrain visibility, or beach driving with spray and lots of shadows hiding washouts and dips?
Ha, i somehow missed the whole second part on CRI and was about to pretty well type out what he said. I guess the quality lights already do all the good things, I am just too poor to experience them lol.
00:00 Introduction
01:15 history of driving lamps; halogen to LED
03:28 how do halogens, HID and LEDs actually work?
06:50 what is a lumen
08:40 CRI - Colour Rendering Index explained
10:24 is there any reason to buy anything other than an LED light?
13:28 what's the best lights for a touring 4X4 owner?
16:10 rear vs forward facing LEDs
18:25 what's the minimum acceptable CRI for lights?
21:17 are LEDs more suited to flood or spot?
22:44 key points for buying driving lights
23:09 the importance of colour temperature
24:45 is the the case more lumens the better?
26:30 what's a lux and why is it important?
29:20 effect of age on night vision
30:30 laser lighting
32:03 spotlights vs lightbars - which one when?
38:03 how is CANBUS causing problems with lights?
39:33 how do the Linear series differ from the standard series?
41:30 importance of long distance driving lights...or not!
42:15 differing rules across states for lights
42:42 how do you achieve low weight with strength?
Maybe get the guys from Fyrlyt for a similar discussion.
Happy to!
Ben was definitely selling his lights, but he wasn't at all annoying about it, just calm and confident. I think I'll have to check them out. Thanks for respecting the audience. Blessings!
Robert, It takes me back to the days of 8" Marchal's on the front bumper and two bulb (H1) headlights! You wired the headlights so both bulbs worked on high beam (relays) and a separate circuit for the spots (triggered by high beam). On a Subaru ;) I like the idea of a roof mounted bar for my wagon. Thanks for posting this!
Very interesting as always Rob. 👍
Just put a Lazer linear elite 18 on the bullbar of my Grenadier. Early days and no country driving yet. But so far very impressed from a relatively small and slim bar.
Thank you for an excellent video. After much deliberation, I installed FYRLYT halogen on my 76 series over LED. The deal breaker for me was they’re softer on the eye and less tiring for extended night driving and, wildlife stands out more because you don’t lose colour. Also, they’re Aussie made. Had I chosen LED, I would have looked at this company. Cheers
Thanks Campbell. How are they softer on the eye?
@@L2SFBC I think they were a great choice, I’m very happy with them.
@@L2SFBC Halogen is well know for being softer (easier) on the eyes because of the higher CRI, once you start to lose CRI it puts stress on your eyes, LED are getting higher CRI but until they can reach 100 CRI Halogen will always be a more pleasing light to drive with.
LED advantage over Halogen or HID lights may be obvious and it was suggested that one should always choose LED over those other lights, however, there were no discussion about how they differ in price. If HID can do the job and do it cheaper vs. some LED which is slightly better, the HID will still be a better choice overall, especially if the price difference is 3x or more.
The price difference isn't 3x though!
@@L2SFBC That is what I wanted to hear in the interview, because I do not know what is the difference for today. When LEDs came they were significantly more expensive compared to everything else, but they are definitely cheaper now, but it is difficult to say by how much without doing some research.
@@L2SFBC but nobody discussed the price differences. Maybe I would choose a second alternator, an extra pound of wire, and just keep adding cheap halogens at 100 CRI until I've got all the light I want? It's a reasonable comparison.
At last we have an expert who tells it like it is. This bloke has just explained why I have a pair of Fyrlyt Nemesis lights. Yes, they draw a bit more juice, but they have a CRI of 100 and at 250 watts each, they give me a superior form of light than the LED and HID lights I've tried in the past.
Your electrical system should be able to cope with the draw of 500 watts of light...actually it's more like 700+ watts, because the factory headlights (low and high beam) on the Silverado are also functioning whenever the Fyrlyts are on.
Yes, I do run a 370 amp Mechman alternator, but that's more because of all the other stuff I run.
Batteries under the bonnet comprise 2x Lithiumax Race9 for the starter batteries and a Amptron 100ah lithium in the canopy for fridge etc.
So glad I found your channel 🤟🤟
Thanks you..why?
@@L2SFBC you are very thorough with your topics and understanding. Well done 🤟🤟
Thanks please share!
@@L2SFBC already have with lots of people 🤟🤟
Interesting things to consider, thanks
He washed over CRI pretty quickly which was disappointing, I don't know the specs on output vs power vs whatever else but you can get some pretty good 95 CRI LED torches with good light output for not a lot of money so I can't see it being a big deal to package that into a driving light. I bought some cheap Ulanzi 'Vlogging' lights from Aliexpress, 95CRI battery powered LED lights to see if the hype is real and you do get a better sense of colours over a normal LED worklight. doing something like wiring, a black/red wire looks black/red, not black/brown for example. High CRI LEDS have a lot more balanced output with respect to light wavelengths, where typical high output LEDS are more in the blue spectrum, which is where FYRLYT aims most of its sales pitch (blue reflects off dust etc more harshly)
Whether high CRI would help with obstacle recognition or fatigue is above my paygrade (and it's a different subject to light colour temperature) and I guess if it was a thing one of the high end companies or OEM headlight makers would of jumped onto it by now, but it would be interesting to try.
The effect of CRI is subjective..how much is enough? LED sure isn't perfect but maybe the other advantages outweigh the deficiency in CRI?
A cynical person might think that big numbers in lumens and distance graphs measured in trips to the moon and back sell more lights than hey look at how nice this roo's fur looks as it bounces in front of you. Bright certainly helps in seeing obstacles at a distance where its colour doesn't matter, I wonder if there could be an advantage in high CRI slow 4wding at night with terrain visibility, or beach driving with spray and lots of shadows hiding washouts and dips?
Can't see high CRI as anything other than positive...but how much is enough? Does it need to be 100? I'd suggest not.
Ha, i somehow missed the whole second part on CRI and was about to pretty well type out what he said. I guess the quality lights already do all the good things, I am just too poor to experience them lol.