I bought a drop in replacement aftermarket kicker 6x9s they are loud, accurate, and they have so so much bass…it’s amazing what a drop in replacement can do with an aftermarket deck
Swapping the head unit/deck makes a huge difference when u add aftermarket speakers. The new "radio" will put out more power than a factory radio. That's why if you change the radio out and new aftermarket speakers, they will sound decent. Usually if you add a pioneer(or any other brand really-im just partial to them)radio to factory speakers they get distorted because pioneers 45watt internal amp is more than factory speaker can handle. Maybe they can handle it but it's overpowering them.
The real difference is the impedance in oem car amp a lot of them use 2ohm and people will put 4ohm aftermarket speaker and loose a lot of output. Is important to match the impedance. Also Most oem speaker are full range and aftermarket are more mid bass made to be use with a subwoofer.
The problem with my Toyota system is the downgraded the quality of the Head unit so it would damage the tissue paper they gave me that they claim is a 6x9. I noticed a huge difference when I finally switched out my head unit. Then there was another noticeable difference when I ran that through a Skar 200.4 amp.
@@cloudyviewi just put 2 pairs of jbl 609 gtos in my doors paired with a skar 4ch 500w rms amp and a single 10in infinity ref1000s paired with an infinity 550w amp. System gets super loud and crystal clear. If you like more bass id advise getting a slightly heavier subwoofer but it does well for having a 3inch mounting depth
@@jacobwebb8818 That's simply not true. Idk about the skar though class Dnin general has improved a LOT the lest few year's. If someone would show you a Purifi amplifier you wouldn't even question it's sound quality. It's just amazing!
@@kaedeschulz5422 You literally ignored the whole point of my comment when you said "Idk about Skar, but the rest of the industry..." And yes, I know Skar makes A/B amps, and I've heard door speakers played out of a class d amp, it sounds okay for an average person but for someone who actually likes music, class A/B is where it is really at. No one is running Skar to be the best of the best, it's the best option for people on a budget (literally ZERO shame in budgeting) in 90% of case scenarios. Me, I'd rather buy a 10 year old class A/B than a new class d amp for sound quality (ignoring subs)
Well what I've always recommended to people who are in this situation is to look for a speaker with a high SPL. You get a speaker with a 90 or a 92 SPL it should sound quite nice with a stock stereo system. The lower that number say like 88 SPL the harder it's going to be for the stock amplifier to drive those speakers. Buying an external amplifier is not always necessary if you can find one, a speaker that is, with a high sensitivity rating. The higher that rating is the easier the speakers are to drive.
Check out the infinity speakers with the plus one cone. They come as 3 ohm and are pretty efficient too. Also , check out some pioneer max series speakers as they also are in the higher db scale and may take a while to break in but I have a set from previous years and they got louder as you use them. It's getting only 22w RMS from deck solid, and yeah it'll get loud once you push it.
Can we talk about how water can affect speaker performance. My hondas back right door has had this issue since the day i brought it home from the dealer. At first i thought the crackling noise was a blown speaker. But after the third speaker swap i noticed alot of corrosion on the speaker leads. And the roadkill foam insulation was saturated in water. I siliconed pasted all of my connections and the terminal post until i can find where the water is coming through or create a new weep hole for the water to escape through. Previous speakers were some polk audios. Current speakers are ct sound mesos running on 50.4 A/B i love the warm tone they have
Jbl has 2 ohm drivers, Infinity also....Most recent factory decks use 2 ohm speakers, if you replace it with a 4 ohm, no matter how much the speaker you bought cost is going to be half as quiet as the factory
Well yea, you don't replace 45w speakers with 150w (Rms) speakers and expect great sound on a stock head unit. However, a 50-75watt speaker will sound better. Especially with a built in crossover and/or "separate" tweeter.
I am preparing to upgrade my factory Class A diesel pusher motorhome audio suite as it sounds horrific. Not looking for a powerhouse, just good clean accurate sound with more depth because right now the speakers sound like frying pans. To replace what I have currently, I have 4 Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75-Inch 3-Way Coaxial Full-Range Speakers, a Kenwood eXcelon DMX958XR head unit, a Kenwood Excelon X302-4 Class D 600 Watts max and I am cheaping out on a temporary Rockville SS8P 400 Watt Slim Under-Seat Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer as I am concerned that this config may fall short on bass. It is only $100, I have spent my wad on everything else, don't judge lol. As everything is sitting in the corner waiting for installation, I am doing my wiring plan. I can't find anything on how to select power wire for a diesel pusher. Here is the issue. Motor and batteries in the back of my 36 Ft motorhome and the head unit and amp is in the front, Ahh the plot thickens... If the Amp and the sub will draw 90 Amps at max like you discuss in your videos that is a ton of wire but I can't even find a table to calculate the gage. Having said this, I do have a curveball. There is a front chassis fuse panel that has two power leads chassis and house and as near I can tell the panel is also 90 Amps but I am not sure the factory wire could support 180 Amps in total. I don't think 00 wire could support 180 Amps over that distance but if it could I would fuse and wire from the front panel with 8 or 10 gauge to the amp. It would probably be easier and cheaper to just wire from the back to the front directly to the amp. But like I said, I cant figure out what gauge to use over 36-40 Ft to deal with the 90 Amp max draw. Thanks for your input!!
Lol, I put a BMW 5 series 10 channel amp in my Mini when the Harmon Kardon amp died. Sounds great. I would not give money to any aftermarket company, re-use high end stock stuff.
I’m planning on doing 2 18s in my f150 gonna do some build videos/updates soon subs and amp otw bddc4 18s and tamps bass 8k for future sub upgrade planning on eventually running 2 dc audio level 3 18s
The last time I upgraded my car speakers was many years ago, I had a car with 4 speakers with 2 tweeters. But today’s cars can have like 18 speakers. I’m curious, if you want to do an upgrade now, do you need to replace all 18 of them?
My original speakers can't handle the power provided by the car. The volume can go up to 50, but distortion happens like on 25 or 30, depending on the song. I'm keeping my listening volume on like 5 10 or even 15 to 20 if I really want to have loud music, but it can't reproduce bass below like 50hz, which is just baaaad. Should I invest in new aftermarket speakers? Would exchange only the bass speakers in all 4 doors.
What would you suggest to replace my 2011 Tahoe door speakers with . I’ve got a aftermarket head unit .. no amps or anything. Just want to replace the blown door speakers with a nice speaker with good bass
@@ubeuonly Yes you can. Some models are easier than others. Toyotas are a breeze to swap head units out in. Hondas....... not so much but they like hooking their sound to other systems!
@@tobybigham4196 of course you can interface I'm speaking of removing and replacing with aftermarket with Integrated Controls. It never looks good or functions well
@@ubeuonly That is exactly what I am talking about. Which is why I mentioned Honda making the mistake of connecting unnecessary sub-systems to the infosystem. But depending on your knowledge level of the various wires, you can hook up most systems that are designed well. Some of the cheap Chinese junk won't work obviously without a bit of rewiring, and even then there are times it just doesn't interface. But I haven't had those issues with most aftermarkets that are recommended on Crutchfield. Again, this will test your ability to understand wiring diagrams! It is rare that I don't have to rewire something!
Plz help! Added a aftermarket radio in my Miata and running rca cable back to a boss 200 amp 2 channel amp and then both my door speakers! Why would I get a hiss/engine noise!? Should any of my ground go back to the battery or all to chassis
@@creativeexperience6388 separate your power cable and your speaker cable ( run the power on the left side of your car and the speaker cables on the right site)
Has anyone done a comparison of a 200w RMS woofer vs a 2000w RMS woofer. Using the same 200w Amplifier? would power handling greatly affect sound quality?
@Noah Cardwell you absolutely will not hurt it at all underpowering a subwoofer. Thats such wrong information. What do you think happens when you turn volume down, your sub just explodes?
@@AudioEuphoria080 That's what you say when you get pulled over. "I have to play my stereo full volume all the time or my speakers will spontaneously combust!"
It's kind of funny the way you explain it. I probably could have done it in 1/2 of the time, but thats ok. I only worked for Rockford Fasgate for how many years😂
I have a 2023 jeep compass and want to boost sound just a little bit, because the stock stereo is quite different from anything aftermarket and appears rather involved to upgrade. Would it be worth it to just replace my speakers or should I install a LOC and small amp . I will eventually upgrade my entire system, but until something aftermarket that’s compatible is available I’ll settle for a modest improvement.
My experience with Factory setups is they have to downgrade the quality of the head unit so it wont hurt the crappy speakers that come with the system. First I swapped speakers. 2nd I swapped the head unit, and eventually upgraded the battery. Then I added a 200 wat 4 channel amp and connected with the my 6x9 and the 6.5 I put in the back doors. Finally, I will add an enclosure with 2x 10" which I will hook to a 1500 amp. I can tell you more in about a month when I complete this part Finally!
So basically the answer is you didn’t plan things out. Plan around what radio you’re using as well if you’re getting an amp. Many aftermarket radios are at least putting out double the power your stock probably is and is capable of creating better sound if you get the right speakers for the power level and car.
If the factory speakers are old and sound like braappp braaappp braaaap The foam around the cone disappeared. So if you buy new entry-level speakers, your car will sound much better. If you buy the top level they will only play with new wires, amp, new radio etc.
O LORD, thou art my God; I will exalt thee, I will praise thy name; for thou hast done wonderful things; thy counsels of old are faithfulness and truth. (Isaiah 25:1 [KJV])
Fast forward to thousands of very sad Bronco owners that bought a car that's less than the sum of its parts with an abysmal audio system and they're all running to change their speakers and it makes virtually no difference whatsoever
@@calebniederhofer6529 I've been doing car audio for 35 years and the difference is negligible, but in a 40k to $60,000 vehicle. U should expect better.
First of all if you want to put a Class A audio system in your car you got to spend some money Jerry. You'll never get decent car audio on the cheap ever the last audio system I swapped into my automobile cost me almost eighteen hundred bucks images so worth it four speakers on the dash boom boxes under the seats single 3-way speakers in each of the doors there four of them one in each corner of the roof and two in the back dash and it's all powered by what I have in the trunk period. And the only thing I ever listened to is 70s classic rock none of that bumi BS rapid mindless bubblegum pop
Factory radios are limited within certain frequencies, so you cant blow up factory speakers, aftermarket head unit lets you maximize the aftermarket speakers. Most aftermarket head units push out about 20watts were factory radios dont.
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought a drop in replacement aftermarket kicker 6x9s they are loud, accurate, and they have so so much bass…it’s amazing what a drop in replacement can do with an aftermarket deck
I’m looking to see if I can improve mine. What vehicle did you do yours on?
Did you use an Amp? I want to get new speakers but without buying an amp.
Did you get a amp? Or just the swap of the speakers
@@Vicmeds I just swapped the speakers. And the deck.
Swapping the head unit/deck makes a huge difference when u add aftermarket speakers. The new "radio" will put out more power than a factory radio. That's why if you change the radio out and new aftermarket speakers, they will sound decent. Usually if you add a pioneer(or any other brand really-im just partial to them)radio to factory speakers they get distorted because pioneers 45watt internal amp is more than factory speaker can handle. Maybe they can handle it but it's overpowering them.
I want to downgrade my factory system
Joker Brain
Boker jrain
@@LilDezKober Rjain
Rekjo nbinar
@@joshbruning7808erjob karni
The real difference is the impedance in oem car amp a lot of them use 2ohm and people will put 4ohm aftermarket speaker and loose a lot of output. Is important to match the impedance. Also Most oem speaker are full range and aftermarket are more mid bass made to be use with a subwoofer.
The problem with my Toyota system is the downgraded the quality of the Head unit so it would damage the tissue paper they gave me that they claim is a 6x9. I noticed a huge difference when I finally switched out my head unit. Then there was another noticeable difference when I ran that through a Skar 200.4 amp.
Hah, I'm currently trying to decide how far to go/how much to spend on my 4runner - the stock system is just not good
Just wait until you hear the difference from a Skar to a real class A/B amp
@@cloudyviewi just put 2 pairs of jbl 609 gtos in my doors paired with a skar 4ch 500w rms amp and a single 10in infinity ref1000s paired with an infinity 550w amp. System gets super loud and crystal clear. If you like more bass id advise getting a slightly heavier subwoofer but it does well for having a 3inch mounting depth
@@jacobwebb8818 That's simply not true. Idk about the skar though class Dnin general has improved a LOT the lest few year's. If someone would show you a Purifi amplifier you wouldn't even question it's sound quality. It's just amazing!
@@kaedeschulz5422 You literally ignored the whole point of my comment when you said "Idk about Skar, but the rest of the industry..." And yes, I know Skar makes A/B amps, and I've heard door speakers played out of a class d amp, it sounds okay for an average person but for someone who actually likes music, class A/B is where it is really at. No one is running Skar to be the best of the best, it's the best option for people on a budget (literally ZERO shame in budgeting) in 90% of case scenarios. Me, I'd rather buy a 10 year old class A/B than a new class d amp for sound quality (ignoring subs)
Well what I've always recommended to people who are in this situation is to look for a speaker with a high SPL. You get a speaker with a 90 or a 92 SPL it should sound quite nice with a stock stereo system. The lower that number say like 88 SPL the harder it's going to be for the stock amplifier to drive those speakers. Buying an external amplifier is not always necessary if you can find one, a speaker that is, with a high sensitivity rating. The higher that rating is the easier the speakers are to drive.
Hi plz can you suggest me speaker that can replace stock speaker without upgrading head unit and give good sound
@SuperArmintiesto i would say JBL
Check out the infinity speakers with the plus one cone. They come as 3 ohm and are pretty efficient too. Also , check out some pioneer max series speakers as they also are in the higher db scale and may take a while to break in but I have a set from previous years and they got louder as you use them. It's getting only 22w RMS from deck solid, and yeah it'll get loud once you push it.
Can we talk about how water can affect speaker performance. My hondas back right door has had this issue since the day i brought it home from the dealer. At first i thought the crackling noise was a blown speaker. But after the third speaker swap i noticed alot of corrosion on the speaker leads. And the roadkill foam insulation was saturated in water. I siliconed pasted all of my connections and the terminal post until i can find where the water is coming through or create a new weep hole for the water to escape through. Previous speakers were some polk audios. Current speakers are ct sound mesos running on 50.4 A/B i love the warm tone they have
thanks for this
Aftermarket speakers almost always have larger magnets, which take more power to drive.
My cars oem speakers had like 1 ounce magnets.. its hard to find anything lighter than those..
I Love Your Stuff Man You Are One Of The Best Builders Ever
If you upgrade your radio too don’t forget the compare the # of ohms bc I now need to replace all my speakers with 4-8 ohms 😢
Jbl has 2 ohm drivers, Infinity also....Most recent factory decks use 2 ohm speakers, if you replace it with a 4 ohm, no matter how much the speaker you bought cost is going to be half as quiet as the factory
I bought some really good speakers back in the day and didn’t realize they needed an amp… sounded horrible compared to the stock ones lol
Well yea, you don't replace 45w speakers with 150w (Rms) speakers and expect great sound on a stock head unit. However, a 50-75watt speaker will sound better. Especially with a built in crossover and/or "separate" tweeter.
I am preparing to upgrade my factory Class A diesel pusher motorhome audio suite as it sounds horrific. Not looking for a powerhouse, just good clean accurate sound with more depth because right now the speakers sound like frying pans. To replace what I have currently, I have 4 Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75-Inch 3-Way Coaxial Full-Range Speakers, a Kenwood eXcelon DMX958XR head unit, a Kenwood Excelon X302-4 Class D 600 Watts max and I am cheaping out on a temporary Rockville SS8P 400 Watt Slim Under-Seat Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer as I am concerned that this config may fall short on bass. It is only $100, I have spent my wad on everything else, don't judge lol. As everything is sitting in the corner waiting for installation, I am doing my wiring plan. I can't find anything on how to select power wire for a diesel pusher. Here is the issue. Motor and batteries in the back of my 36 Ft motorhome and the head unit and amp is in the front, Ahh the plot thickens... If the Amp and the sub will draw 90 Amps at max like you discuss in your videos that is a ton of wire but I can't even find a table to calculate the gage. Having said this, I do have a curveball. There is a front chassis fuse panel that has two power leads chassis and house and as near I can tell the panel is also 90 Amps but I am not sure the factory wire could support 180 Amps in total. I don't think 00 wire could support 180 Amps over that distance but if it could I would fuse and wire from the front panel with 8 or 10 gauge to the amp. It would probably be easier and cheaper to just wire from the back to the front directly to the amp. But like I said, I cant figure out what gauge to use over 36-40 Ft to deal with the 90 Amp max draw. Thanks for your input!!
Love your videos! What's the craziest sound system you've done???
Bass Equalizer on maxx mid and high tones empty
Lol, I put a BMW 5 series 10 channel amp in my Mini when the Harmon Kardon amp died. Sounds great. I would not give money to any aftermarket company, re-use high end stock stuff.
I’m planning on doing 2 18s in my f150 gonna do some build videos/updates soon subs and amp otw bddc4 18s and tamps bass 8k for future sub upgrade planning on eventually running 2 dc audio level 3 18s
Bro make a video about your own cars speakers and why YOU picked them. For real please do this
Cone surface area doesn't always equal bet performance or louder. Most 6x9's can't even come close to a medium quality 6.5" woofer.
The last time I upgraded my car speakers was many years ago, I had a car with 4 speakers with 2 tweeters. But today’s cars can have like 18 speakers. I’m curious, if you want to do an upgrade now, do you need to replace all 18 of them?
My original speakers can't handle the power provided by the car. The volume can go up to 50, but distortion happens like on 25 or 30, depending on the song. I'm keeping my listening volume on like 5 10 or even 15 to 20 if I really want to have loud music, but it can't reproduce bass below like 50hz, which is just baaaad.
Should I invest in new aftermarket speakers? Would exchange only the bass speakers in all 4 doors.
buy sub to handle the lower frequencies/ go powered sub if you want simple install/
I got a 07 Pontiac Grand Prix gxp withe the monsoon system and want to upgrade the amp and the interior speakers
What would you suggest to replace my 2011 Tahoe door speakers with . I’ve got a aftermarket head unit .. no amps or anything. Just want to replace the blown door speakers with a nice speaker with good bass
Its simple If you buy new speakers dont forget to buy new audio player
U can't change radio in most modern car economically or reliably
@@ubeuonly Yes you can. Some models are easier than others. Toyotas are a breeze to swap head units out in. Hondas....... not so much but they like hooking their sound to other systems!
@@tobybigham4196 of course you can interface I'm speaking of removing and replacing with aftermarket with Integrated Controls. It never looks good or functions well
@@ubeuonly That is exactly what I am talking about. Which is why I mentioned Honda making the mistake of connecting unnecessary sub-systems to the infosystem. But depending on your knowledge level of the various wires, you can hook up most systems that are designed well. Some of the cheap Chinese junk won't work obviously without a bit of rewiring, and even then there are times it just doesn't interface. But I haven't had those issues with most aftermarkets that are recommended on Crutchfield.
Again, this will test your ability to understand wiring diagrams! It is rare that I don't have to rewire something!
Nobody wants to upgrade the head unit lol
You GOOD MAN😮 I haba e Mazda CX30 w/ Bosé what do you recomend DSP ?
Plz help! Added a aftermarket radio in my Miata and running rca cable back to a boss 200 amp 2 channel amp and then both my door speakers! Why would I get a hiss/engine noise!? Should any of my ground go back to the battery or all to chassis
@@creativeexperience6388 separate your power cable and your speaker cable ( run the power on the left side of your car and the speaker cables on the right site)
i wish my car took 6x9s
i have 6.5s and a sub but it still feels like theres a gap in the midbass
Thank you
Hiii bt8bT
Has anyone done a comparison of a 200w RMS woofer vs a 2000w RMS woofer. Using the same 200w Amplifier? would power handling greatly affect sound quality?
Yes. The coil on the 2000w requires alot of watts too move the sub. You can kill it if you under power it.
@@noahcardwell137 Not "can". It WILL!
@Noah Cardwell you absolutely will not hurt it at all underpowering a subwoofer. Thats such wrong information. What do you think happens when you turn volume down, your sub just explodes?
@@AudioEuphoria080 That's what you say when you get pulled over. "I have to play my stereo full volume all the time or my speakers will spontaneously combust!"
@@JayyCobb lmao i need to use that one
How many watts is good for door speakers
It's kind of funny the way you explain it. I probably could have done it in 1/2 of the time, but thats ok. I only worked for Rockford Fasgate for how many years😂
so were not gonna mention different ohms loads?🤷🏾♂️🤦🏽♂️
It's a one minute video limit. There's a lot I'm not mentioning, which is why you should go watch the full long form video.
I have a 2023 jeep compass and want to boost sound just a little bit, because the stock stereo is quite different from anything aftermarket and appears rather involved to upgrade. Would it be worth it to just replace my speakers or should I install a LOC and small amp . I will eventually upgrade my entire system, but until something aftermarket that’s compatible is available I’ll settle for a modest improvement.
My experience with Factory setups is they have to downgrade the quality of the head unit so it wont hurt the crappy speakers that come with the system.
First I swapped speakers.
2nd I swapped the head unit, and eventually upgraded the battery.
Then I added a 200 wat 4 channel amp and connected with the my 6x9 and the 6.5 I put in the back doors.
Finally, I will add an enclosure with 2x 10" which I will hook to a 1500 amp. I can tell you more in about a month when I complete this part Finally!
my factory sounds fine I just want a new radio I got a cassete
Well also alot and i mean alot of people also dont know if there car is a 1,2,4 ohm setup from the factory.
Is there a easy way to find out before I go pulling the speakers or ohm testing the speaker wires?
So basically the answer is you didn’t plan things out. Plan around what radio you’re using as well if you’re getting an amp. Many aftermarket radios are at least putting out double the power your stock probably is and is capable of creating better sound if you get the right speakers for the power level and car.
I'm here for the survey
Hi Mark are you available? I have 2023 sprinter I would love you on it
What smp is that in your hand
Actually difference is usually because of resistance 4ohm replacement speakers on 2-3 ohm factory system. Basically the bridged parallel vs series
there isnt just one explanation for this
The whole point is to avoid an amp, I’m lazy
i got subs and amp installed at bestbuy i still have factory head unit can i still install new upgraded speakers if so how
This is my mistake....upgraded my speakers and a new infotainment system but forgot to put a amplifier. Speakers wont work HAHAHA
Thats because it looks like you downgraded to a 5-6 inch speaker from a 6x9
If the factory speakers are old and sound like braappp braaappp braaaap
The foam around the cone disappeared.
So if you buy new entry-level speakers, your car will sound much better.
If you buy the top level they will only play with new wires, amp, new radio etc.
such a handsome young man
bro what
like wth @@doorstepmushroom7197
Ok❤
send
O LORD, thou art my God; I will exalt thee, I will praise thy name; for thou hast done wonderful things; thy counsels of old are faithfulness and truth. (Isaiah 25:1 [KJV])
💪🏽💪🏽🔥🔥
Fast forward to thousands of very sad Bronco owners that bought a car that's less than the sum of its parts with an abysmal audio system and they're all running to change their speakers and it makes virtually no difference whatsoever
It can make a significant difference actually.
@@calebniederhofer6529 I've been doing car audio for 35 years and the difference is negligible, but in a 40k to $60,000 vehicle. U should expect better.
First of all if you want to put a Class A audio system in your car you got to spend some money Jerry. You'll never get decent car audio on the cheap ever the last audio system I swapped into my automobile cost me almost eighteen hundred bucks images so worth it four speakers on the dash boom boxes under the seats single 3-way speakers in each of the doors there four of them one in each corner of the roof and two in the back dash and it's all powered by what I have in the trunk period. And the only thing I ever listened to is 70s classic rock none of that bumi BS rapid mindless bubblegum pop
That's it?
Who would choose SMALLER speakers😂
People that are smart enough to realize just blindly choosing large subwoofers without considering the application is foolish
Say factory speakers have high impedance from 8-to12 ohms
mine have 4 ohms ^^ never saw a car that had 8-12
@@DJJumpdancer've almost never seen higher than 4 either. Sometimes even 2 in premium audio setups.
@@Benny_Lei like B&O systems ?
My infinti g35 is 8 ohm speakers.
@@Benny_Lei i just found out that the speakers of my beats audio system in the front doors are 2 ohms
Factory radios are limited within certain frequencies, so you cant blow up factory speakers, aftermarket head unit lets you maximize the aftermarket speakers. Most aftermarket head units push out about 20watts were factory radios dont.