I'm going to have to Google gyp liner now Mr A as quite a few others have mentioned it in these comments 😀 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
😂😂 OMG I do the same thing I forget I’ve got battery tools and still use my hand tools, those strips of metal are Gypsum metal stud wall brackets for C-Studs can also be used on ceiling brackets as well. Good to see you doing the traditional stuff 👍👍
Hi Charranjit 🖐I think it must be old age forgetting that you've got a power tool to do the work for you😩Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
What I would do is, I'd do them both first fix and second fix using gypliner system (insulating the wall as well), then fix the sill onto the top of my GL8 (or mf6a wich I tend to use more often b/c it's wider). Decorators can get over the damage with a bit of woodfiller. Done it with I-studs for sound insulation a few years ago in a college accomodation and it worked just fine. I'm a dryliner by trade so it's easy for me. I find myself doing more and more carpentry these days tho. BTW to me dabbing is the blasphemy of drylining. Keep up the good work!
Hi bud🖐That's a great comment and I must admit I'm going to have to look into some of those technical terms for things you use as I've not heard of them🤔Appreciate you watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Del: not particularly exciting. Me: it bloody was. You should have seen me butchering mine to heck trying to get them in. My next one will be a lot better now thanks to you!!!
Thats a great comment bud😆I suppose I don't think its that interesting because I've been doing it for 30+ years😵Glad you found the video useful😎Cheers Del
The brackets are for attaching Gyplyner studwork, funnily enough I've spent most of today fitting some of these....I despise metal studwork, give me timber any day! Nice job on the window boards Del 👍
@@thetallcarpenter I use both Del and once you get your head around its a great product, the beauty of it is its always straight. Gypliner and MF ceilings just make it so easy.
Great video as always. Great method. Only thing I would do differently is save the rawl plugs and screw directly into the block work. Coarse threads on timber screws will hold perfectly well (50mm or longer) and once foamed, will take no load anyway. Lots of great tips as usual. Keep the videos coming 😊👍
I hear what you're saying about going straight into the blocks Brad, and plugs aren't that great in those light blocks anyway😬I use plugs through habit I guess👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Those straight Simpson ties are handy, I've used them screwed into window and door frames then fixed into the blockwork when the brick isnt giving a good fix. Another good video mate that I'm watching while pretending to price up jobs!😁
Hi bud🖐I can see what you mean about using those ties for fixing a door frame👊Another great use👍Now back to pretending to be pricing up work😜(thanks for watching though🤗)Cheers Del
I tend to use whatever I can get my hands on Matthew🤔and I think in my other window board 'how to' video I used short plate strap type brackets too👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
These brackets are used for metal furring, fixed to the wall through the centre then bend both wings screwing to the vertical furring, Nice little project 👍
Nice job dell just how we do it apart from we buy rolls of 25mm x 50metres of straping for the brackets does about 10 houses give or take keep up the good work
I've also used the band type strapping, but the builders only use the thin stuff which isn't strong enough🙄I didn't know you could get it 25mm wide so will look into that, as like you say, pretty cost effective way to do it👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I still use a looped piece of wire fixed to a screw underside of board and to the blockwork stick a 4 inch nail in the loop and wind it down, never thought of doing it any other way 😄
Del, i have only ever fitted window sills and fire mantles by putting screws in the back and bedding them in compo. My dad is 87 and done thousands like this.
@@Goodwithwood69 Not really cold bridging if there is a cavity closure underneath, it's no different to dot dabbing the reveals. Yeah few more screw holes to fill in, no big drama for some two pack filler. Del's method mitigates these things but definitely more involved but definitely is a viable option. Bedding the boards lets you set them precisely regardless of how rough the blockwork is and fix them closer to the centre.
Are you dot and dabing them on or bedding them on? And you will always see filled screw holes eventually, plus you have to mix the muck up? It wouldn't pass muster on a newbuild site, site agent would have a hissy fit, the way shown one the video is the way ive seen it done the most, not saying your way is wrong.....but it aint right, plus you have to come bach the next day for a half days job?
Missing cavity closers! Awful block work! What's with the gaps around the windows? Insulation looks shit as ever to UK standards. Good job energy is cheap!!!
Great video! Just wondering does driving screws into the window frame open up any potential problems with moisture escaping from the frame. I know the all have drainage channels, are these channels just at the front (outside) of the frame?
Hi Jordan🖐The cill that I screw into is a separate part to the window which forms no part of the windows interenal drainage function👍Many window fitters, however, do screw the window down into the cill which they then seal with silicone👊Cheers Del
Hi, just out of interest what happens in the future should the windows require replacement, now the sills are bonded to them? Does this pose a problem for the window fitters? Thanks
Hi Paul🖐I think the window would come out fairly easily as the window board is mainly stuck to the thin batten that is only screwed to the back of the window cill. I would expect that batten to just break as the cill section is removed🤔You can be sure, that if I'm ever involved in taking out any windows like this, I will video it👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi del I get my brackets from toolstation for window boards, they are similar to wall plate straps but obviously shorter. Since the bend is already on them and the holes are large enough for a 5.5mm drill bit I find they save me a bit of time when fitting lots of boards
Hi Ilija🖐I know the exact ones you mean, they are 100x200mm plate type straps and I regularly use them like you do, only this time I wasn't near a Toolstation so grabbed what I could at the timber merchants👊Thanks for your 😎Cheers Del
Thanks for this vid. I'm currently doing our kitchen up and I'd like to do oak window boards. Can I ask if you would change your approach when using oak?
Hi there🖐It depends on how much work you are doing in your kitchen, as the way I show would need the straps to be fixed to the bare masonry which means more making good. If you want to minimise disruption to the reveal then I would pack the underside and fix down through the top and cover the fixings with timber plugs👍Hope this helps👊Cheers Del
Good stuff Del I'm going to give this method a go next time I'm fitting window boards. I've always face fixed and timber plugged, never considered any other way. Every day is a school day. Cheers 👍
When you round over the ends of the boards, do you end up with a flat in the middle where the bearing goes? Personally I’d like it for the ends to match the front profile but I haven’t found a bit/way of doing this. 😕 or is it just me being really fussy and ocd? 🤪
Hi Matt🖐Great question and I too like the rounded ends to match the front moulding, so consequently I use a large radius cutter which I only set to about 2/3rds depth which which doesn't fully round the ends and the bearing still rides on the unmoulded center section from both sides leaving a lovely finish👊 Hope that makes sense🤞Cheers Del
Hi del, what tolerance would you accept for flatness across the windowboard? I’ve noticed the nhbc allows plus or minus 3mm deviation in flatness across the length of the sill And 3mm max tolerance for level across the window board.
Hi there🖐 I guess 3mm is an OK tolerance😶but I would be looking to get it straight against a level if I could, and I don't mind the window board tipping down at the front a tiny bit👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for that del. Only reason I ask is I recently fitted a window board just like the method shown here.but instead of using a square I used a boat level. I levelled across the window board from back to the front, it was spot on. Then put my 6ft level across the front of the windowboard only to find it deviates 2-3mm from straight across the length of the level. In this instance is it better to keep it so it’s straight at the front even if it shows out of level across from front to back?. Or should i keep it level across and accept the slight deviation in straightness at the front?. Thanks
How come you don't use construction adhesive for fitting these and pack right underneath to support the rear of the board rather than fixing direct to the window. If the windows ever get replaced the support goes with it
Hi there🖐There is nothing solid to pack off at the window as there is a cavity with fiber insulation in it👍It's unlikely that Upvc windows would need replacing, buy if they did, all the window reveals would need to be destroyed as the windows are fixed back to the internal blockwork with heavy duty straps👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I reckon those window fitters will struggle locating that pvc cill under that kitchen window, the cills have a 5mm upstand on the back which will foul the battern you screwed onto the window
I think you're right Tom, and I did express my concerns about this to the builder, and I suspect the window guys will have to either cut that upstsnd/lip off or pack it down before fixing it🤔Either way they're gonna need to use plenty of silicone to seal it to the rear, underside of the window👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Well, they should have fitted the cills when the fitted the windows! Bracket spacing look a bit suspect on some windows - 600mm c/c great job from you by the way.
@@PaulFurness_run26 I sometimes have to just do as I'm asked Paul and give up protesting about what should or shouldn't have been done before I start doing my bit😬 I wish it was all properly ready for me, but there you go😩Cheers bud
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks mate👍So is it possible to fix direct to the brick or block flat on leaving no gap, if the heighth is OK? or is that a no no and you must leave a gap? Either way I'm getting some expanding foam even if I end up with a small gap
@HenryHobson-uc2bk You can fix straight through the window board into the blocks if the heights work for you👍I don't as the filler can sometimes show when the window board I'd painted🤔
@@thetallcarpenter I done the deed today as per your advice in the videos. The brickie left a very level and even surface to work on, so it was pretty straightforward. I made 4 packing pieces to bring it up to height, little wedges to adjust for level right to left and front to back, screwed down through the board close to packing pieces. I would of used wood plugs to cover the screws but couldnt find a plug cutter so used filler. Only issue was inexperience of using too much foam, I ended up with huge fatbergs of foam oozing out. Trimmed out fine when it cured though. Thanks for your videos and advice😃👍
You can get a proper pvc U channel instead of using that skinny batten!!, the MDF slots in perfectly to the chanel super easy & neat!! Why no cavity closers or dpc tray!! 🙄
@@thetallcarpenter thats so strange not using it, rather caulk or silicon between the board and the window :S gets dirty after a while, is it a private house u are building or site work?
Hi bud🖐That's a tricky one to answer🤔 If it's just one, 1m window board then it will take longer to fit than a 1m window board whilst doing a house full. But to cut the board to size, round the ends, cut round the block work, cut, bend and fix the brackets, rip down the batten and fix it to the window and then stick, drill, plug and screw it in, broadly takes 15/20 minutes👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks bud, also how long would it take to make up a door lining and then fit it into studwork (based on a lining for a 2 foot 9 door)
I always fix my window boards after the wall is boarded, but before the reveals are borded. I do this as I find the boarding rarely works dead parallel with the window, so I cut it after to get a perfectly consistent overhang. Am I the only one who has this issue?
I prefer to do this if I’m not doing the boarding, had too many times where the boarders attach the board out of square or too far off the wall so basically flush with the window board.
Hi Peter🖐My builders like me to leave the films on and they go round and cut them off with a Stanley blade when it's all finished and decorated👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Paul🖐There is still the curved external trim detail to finish on that window🤔Personally, I think the window installation should have been completed before I put the window boards on, but you can't always get what you want😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Who the hell measured the windows.? MASSIVE gaps around them. What happens if you want/need to change the window boards.?? What a mess that will cause .!!!!
Hi Patrick🖐The gaps around the windows will be sealed and trimmed from the outside, and foamed from the inside. The larger gaps also mean the inside of the frame isn't overcrowded by the plasterboard reveals👍Window boards can be removed easily with only minimal damage to the window or the reveals👊 (you just got to know how😉) Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
always a pleasure watch your video...its great to see other methods that can be applied to fitting window boards.
I appreciate your supportive comment Arthur🤗and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Another great video Del, always good to see how other joiners go about things, will give them metal brackets ago when I next install window boards 👍🏼
I agree Ben, that it's great to see how other guys do things👊Appreciate you watching and thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Good solid videos every time, thanks Del. I don't always comment but I watch them all.
Wayne
Thanks for being a faithful watcher WMC🤗and on this occasion, thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Nice clean and organised job site. 👍
It's not always like that Geralt😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice job Del👏 And a great tutorial 👍
Thanks Dominic👍Appreciate your comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Awesome work as always.
Cheers Stu🤩Thanks for watching bud👊
Top job Del..👌🏻👍🏻
Cheers Richard👊Thanks for watching 😎
Those brackets are for installing gyp lyner which is worth a look because it’s a great system.
Great video always really enjoy them 👍🏻
I'm going to have to Google gyp liner now Mr A as quite a few others have mentioned it in these comments 😀 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Another good video Del to chuck in the memory bank 👏👏
Cheers Mark🤗Thanks for watching bud 😎
Nice one Del, you managed to get enthusiastic about window boards, I literally die inside anytime I'm asked to do them. 😉
I spend lots of time stood in front of a mirror chanting 'I love window boards, I love window boards' 😵Try it, it might work for you too😁Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Haha. Love it.
😂😂 OMG I do the same thing I forget I’ve got battery tools and still use my hand tools, those strips of metal are Gypsum metal stud wall brackets for C-Studs can also be used on ceiling brackets as well. Good to see you doing the traditional stuff 👍👍
Hi Charranjit 🖐I think it must be old age forgetting that you've got a power tool to do the work for you😩Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Del, I’ve never seen them fitted that way before mate I’ve Learnt something new 👍🤔
It's the way I've always fitted them to upvc windows Carl👍and it works for me👊Thanks for watching bud 😎 Cheers Del
Great video Del !!! thanks
Thanks Michael😎
Nice work 👍
Cheers Brian🤩
Excelente video 👍
Hi Vianka🖐Thanks, as always, for watching😎Cheers Del
What I would do is, I'd do them both first fix and second fix using gypliner system (insulating the wall as well), then fix the sill onto the top of my GL8 (or mf6a wich I tend to use more often b/c it's wider). Decorators can get over the damage with a bit of woodfiller. Done it with I-studs for sound insulation a few years ago in a college accomodation and it worked just fine. I'm a dryliner by trade so it's easy for me. I find myself doing more and more carpentry these days tho. BTW to me dabbing is the blasphemy of drylining. Keep up the good work!
Hi bud🖐That's a great comment and I must admit I'm going to have to look into some of those technical terms for things you use as I've not heard of them🤔Appreciate you watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Del: not particularly exciting.
Me: it bloody was. You should have seen me butchering mine to heck trying to get them in. My next one will be a lot better now thanks to you!!!
Thats a great comment bud😆I suppose I don't think its that interesting because I've been doing it for 30+ years😵Glad you found the video useful😎Cheers Del
great video
Thanks for watching Neil🤗Cheers Del
The brackets are for attaching Gyplyner studwork, funnily enough I've spent most of today fitting some of these....I despise metal studwork, give me timber any day! Nice job on the window boards Del 👍
I didn't know what those brackets were for Jim, so you learn something every day😉I don't like metal studwork either😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I use both Del and once you get your head around its a great product, the beauty of it is its always straight. Gypliner and MF ceilings just make it so easy.
@@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 You're a man of many talents Andy🤩
Great video as always. Great method. Only thing I would do differently is save the rawl plugs and screw directly into the block work. Coarse threads on timber screws will hold perfectly well (50mm or longer) and once foamed, will take no load anyway. Lots of great tips as usual. Keep the videos coming 😊👍
I hear what you're saying about going straight into the blocks Brad, and plugs aren't that great in those light blocks anyway😬I use plugs through habit I guess👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I got in shit on site for not plugging them ..
@@adamhadfield5831 I can imagine Adam😬
Those straight Simpson ties are handy, I've used them screwed into window and door frames then fixed into the blockwork when the brick isnt giving a good fix. Another good video mate that I'm watching while pretending to price up jobs!😁
Hi bud🖐I can see what you mean about using those ties for fixing a door frame👊Another great use👍Now back to pretending to be pricing up work😜(thanks for watching though🤗)Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter You and Mr Clevett are a constant distraction. Keep it up! I wish my merchant had a 50p rack, great idea!
@@jasonald71 Yeah, the 50p rack is awesome as sometimes you just want an odd little bit of batten or funny sized timber in a 2m length👍
Exactly how I do it but I normally setup a laser 👍great job
Hi David🖐I never thought about setting up a laser🤔Good shout👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I do mine exactly the same but with metal strapping left over from the roof a bit thicker but does the job
I tend to use whatever I can get my hands on Matthew🤔and I think in my other window board 'how to' video I used short plate strap type brackets too👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
These brackets are used for metal furring, fixed to the wall through the centre then bend both wings screwing to the vertical furring,
Nice little project 👍
Hi BtB🖐That's interesting bud, as I can see how they would work as you describe👍Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Once again making a job look easy. But must say nice to have job with view...
Keep your pencil sharp.
Hi Tim🖐My pencil is always sharp bud, as its not long ago been 'new sharpener day'👊😆Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice job dell just how we do it apart from we buy rolls of 25mm x 50metres of straping for the brackets does about 10 houses give or take keep up the good work
I've also used the band type strapping, but the builders only use the thin stuff which isn't strong enough🙄I didn't know you could get it 25mm wide so will look into that, as like you say, pretty cost effective way to do it👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I still use a looped piece of wire fixed to a screw underside of board and to the blockwork stick a 4 inch nail in the loop and wind it down, never thought of doing it any other way 😄
That way sound very ingenious Andy👊Once its rendered/dot and dabbed in, it aint going nowhere💪Cheers bud
@@thetallcarpenter Not my idea Del just the way all chippies did it in the olden days 😁
Del, i have only ever fitted window sills and fire mantles by putting screws in the back and bedding them in compo. My dad is 87 and done thousands like this.
That's a great and solid way of doing it Steve💪Cheers fella😎
Done it that way years ago to 👍👍
@@kierancreighton3918 tbf, its the only way I know.
More videos like this please
Hi Adam🖐I've got a fair few on my channel now bud🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
👍👍👍
Cheers Pete🤩
I usually bed them onto drywall adhesive then screw down the next day. Interesting to see other ways. 👍
Hi Geralt🖐You're way sounds super solid bud💪Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Cold bridging and holes to fill?
@@Goodwithwood69 Not really cold bridging if there is a cavity closure underneath, it's no different to dot dabbing the reveals. Yeah few more screw holes to fill in, no big drama for some two pack filler.
Del's method mitigates these things but definitely more involved but definitely is a viable option. Bedding the boards lets you set them precisely regardless of how rough the blockwork is and fix them closer to the centre.
Are you dot and dabing them on or bedding them on? And you will always see filled screw holes eventually, plus you have to mix the muck up? It wouldn't pass muster on a newbuild site, site agent would have a hissy fit, the way shown one the video is the way ive seen it done the most, not saying your way is wrong.....but it aint right, plus you have to come bach the next day for a half days job?
Missing cavity closers!
Awful block work!
What's with the gaps around the windows?
Insulation looks shit as ever to UK standards. Good job energy is cheap!!!
Brilliant way to fit window boards, they are going nowhere 👍 👌 👍
There's other ways to fit them Paddy, but I find this way works for me👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
nice one, if the window is not running paralel with the inside blocks, gonna looks not equal the sill overhang
Hi Ladi🖐You're quite right, but this is a new job so no excuses to not get the windows in right🤔Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
they're gypliner brackets, used for metal drylining walls
Thanks for that info Jordan, as I didn't have a clue what they actually were for🤯Cheers Del
🤘😎🤘
Thanks for watching Wayne🤗😎🤗
1.45, window fits well
The builder uses the best window fitters in the land😶Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Another interesting method you used there Del 👏👏. What type of adhesive did you use for gluing to the batten?
Hi Kevin🖐It's 'sticks like sh#t' and is my go to high performance adhesive💪Thanks for watching bud🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter 👍👍👍Keep up the good work Del
@@amazing451 Will do bud, and thanks for being a great supporter of the channel👍
Great video! Just wondering does driving screws into the window frame open up any potential problems with moisture escaping from the frame. I know the all have drainage channels, are these channels just at the front (outside) of the frame?
Hi Jordan🖐The cill that I screw into is a separate part to the window which forms no part of the windows interenal drainage function👍Many window fitters, however, do screw the window down into the cill which they then seal with silicone👊Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for clearing that up!
Hi, just out of interest what happens in the future should the windows require replacement, now the sills are bonded to them?
Does this pose a problem for the window fitters?
Thanks
Hi Paul🖐I think the window would come out fairly easily as the window board is mainly stuck to the thin batten that is only screwed to the back of the window cill. I would expect that batten to just break as the cill section is removed🤔You can be sure, that if I'm ever involved in taking out any windows like this, I will video it👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi del
I get my brackets from toolstation for window boards, they are similar to wall plate straps but obviously shorter. Since the bend is already on them and the holes are large enough for a 5.5mm drill bit I find they save me a bit of time when fitting lots of boards
Hi Ilija🖐I know the exact ones you mean, they are 100x200mm plate type straps and I regularly use them like you do, only this time I wasn't near a Toolstation so grabbed what I could at the timber merchants👊Thanks for your 😎Cheers Del
Was going to say - What was that thing you started using at 8.13? Couldn't se an on/off switch anywhere on it
Ha, ha SD😆 That's auto pilot for you😵💫Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Strange the cill wasn't fitted when the window went in,now its probably a little tricky to fit, where there's a will and glue, be fine 🙂 👍 🪚
There's always a way Mark👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Thanks for this vid. I'm currently doing our kitchen up and I'd like to do oak window boards. Can I ask if you would change your approach when using oak?
Hi there🖐It depends on how much work you are doing in your kitchen, as the way I show would need the straps to be fixed to the bare masonry which means more making good. If you want to minimise disruption to the reveal then I would pack the underside and fix down through the top and cover the fixings with timber plugs👍Hope this helps👊Cheers Del
Sir i am indian I am carpenter pls help me sir . work visa pls sir
Good stuff Del I'm going to give this method a go next time I'm fitting window boards. I've always face fixed and timber plugged, never considered any other way. Every day is a school day. Cheers 👍
When you round over the ends of the boards, do you end up with a flat in the middle where the bearing goes? Personally I’d like it for the ends to match the front profile but I haven’t found a bit/way of doing this. 😕 or is it just me being really fussy and ocd? 🤪
Yeah that's fussy! Could sand then put once you have put the round over on.
A full round over bit in a router table will do that job for you, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Hi Matt🖐Great question and I too like the rounded ends to match the front moulding, so consequently I use a large radius cutter which I only set to about 2/3rds depth which which doesn't fully round the ends and the bearing still rides on the unmoulded center section from both sides leaving a lovely finish👊 Hope that makes sense🤞Cheers Del
Hi del, what tolerance would you accept for flatness across the windowboard? I’ve noticed the nhbc allows plus or minus 3mm deviation in flatness across the length of the sill And 3mm max tolerance for level across the window board.
Hi there🖐 I guess 3mm is an OK tolerance😶but I would be looking to get it straight against a level if I could, and I don't mind the window board tipping down at the front a tiny bit👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks for that del. Only reason I ask is I recently fitted a window board just like the method shown here.but instead of using a square I used a boat level. I levelled across the window board from back to the front, it was spot on. Then put my 6ft level across the front of the windowboard only to find it deviates 2-3mm from straight across the length of the level. In this instance is it better to keep it so it’s straight at the front even if it shows out of level across from front to back?. Or should i keep it level across and accept the slight deviation in straightness at the front?.
Thanks
@Chippy97 I would prefer it to see the window board nice and straight along the front edge bud👍
How come you don't use construction adhesive for fitting these and pack right underneath to support the rear of the board rather than fixing direct to the window. If the windows ever get replaced the support goes with it
Hi there🖐There is nothing solid to pack off at the window as there is a cavity with fiber insulation in it👍It's unlikely that Upvc windows would need replacing, buy if they did, all the window reveals would need to be destroyed as the windows are fixed back to the internal blockwork with heavy duty straps👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
😎😎😎😎
Thanks for watching Garviel🤩Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Caught up with all the vids!
@@garvielloken3929 I know bud🤩Its great to have you watching mate, and I appreciate your support😎Have a good week.
Hello Del, About 6 months ago you used a black tape to protect some work. Can you tell me the name of the tape.
Hi Ian🖐If it was on the decking job then it is this tape.
Walter Strong Decking Tape from Craftt Europe Ltd. 👍
@@thetallcarpenter thank you Del
I reckon those window fitters will struggle locating that pvc cill under that kitchen window, the cills have a 5mm upstand on the back which will foul the battern you screwed onto the window
I think you're right Tom, and I did express my concerns about this to the builder, and I suspect the window guys will have to either cut that upstsnd/lip off or pack it down before fixing it🤔Either way they're gonna need to use plenty of silicone to seal it to the rear, underside of the window👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Well, they should have fitted the cills when the fitted the windows! Bracket spacing look a bit suspect on some windows - 600mm c/c great job from you by the way.
@@PaulFurness_run26 I sometimes have to just do as I'm asked Paul and give up protesting about what should or shouldn't have been done before I start doing my bit😬 I wish it was all properly ready for me, but there you go😩Cheers bud
@@thetallcarpenter yep you can only do what you can do!
@@tompirozek4490 🙄👍😎
why do you leave a gap between the board and the top of the block wall? sorry if it seems like a basic question
Hi Henry🖐The gap under window board is as result of blockwork height left by the bricklayers, and is usually insulated and foamed in👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks mate👍So is it possible to fix direct to the brick or block flat on leaving no gap, if the heighth is OK? or is that a no no and you must leave a gap? Either way I'm getting some expanding foam even if I end up with a small gap
@HenryHobson-uc2bk You can fix straight through the window board into the blocks if the heights work for you👍I don't as the filler can sometimes show when the window board I'd painted🤔
@@thetallcarpenter I done the deed today as per your advice in the videos. The brickie left a very level and even surface to work on, so it was pretty straightforward. I made 4 packing pieces to bring it up to height, little wedges to adjust for level right to left and front to back, screwed down through the board close to packing pieces. I would of used wood plugs to cover the screws but couldnt find a plug cutter so used filler. Only issue was inexperience of using too much foam, I ended up with huge fatbergs of foam oozing out. Trimmed out fine when it cured though. Thanks for your videos and advice😃👍
Nice video as always Del👏What adhesive is it?
Hi Mark🖐Its Evo Stick, Sticks Like S**T 👊 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks I’ll send you a Crackerjack pencil 😂
@@markosborne5510 Showing your age there Mark😵 Better than a cabbage I guess😎
You can get a proper pvc U channel instead of using that skinny batten!!, the MDF slots in perfectly to the chanel super easy & neat!!
Why no cavity closers or dpc tray!! 🙄
Hi Paul🖐I know about that U channel, but these builders don't like it😬 I'm only responsible for the carpentry😶Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Interesting video Del. Looked to me like the window reveals were too large for the frames. The gaps requiring foaming look too large.
Hi Matt🖐The kitchen opening was definitely too deep, and fortunately, foam can fill some pretty big gaps😉Thanks for watching bud😎 Cheers Del
Any reason u are not using window board receivers? no glue needed and dont have to vedge the windowboards down, quick easy install.
Hi there🖐The builders on this job don't like the U channel, which is a shame as it makes it simpler as you say🤔Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thats so strange not using it, rather caulk or silicon between the board and the window :S gets dirty after a while, is it a private house u are building or site work?
@@C013ain The builders don't silicone or caulk the window board to the window as the joint is nice and tight👍
How long does it take you to fit a window board approx 1 metre long ?
Hi bud🖐That's a tricky one to answer🤔 If it's just one, 1m window board then it will take longer to fit than a 1m window board whilst doing a house full. But to cut the board to size, round the ends, cut round the block work, cut, bend and fix the brackets, rip down the batten and fix it to the window and then stick, drill, plug and screw it in, broadly takes 15/20 minutes👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thanks bud, also how long would it take to make up a door lining and then fit it into studwork (based on a lining for a 2 foot 9 door)
I always fix my window boards after the wall is boarded, but before the reveals are borded. I do this as I find the boarding rarely works dead parallel with the window, so I cut it after to get a perfectly consistent overhang. Am I the only one who has this issue?
I get what you're saying O Bez👍And I rarely have issues with the boarding being that far out of parallel with the window👊Cheers Del
I prefer to do this if I’m not doing the boarding, had too many times where the boarders attach the board out of square or too far off the wall so basically flush with the window board.
@@stuartweatherburn8809 Hi Stuart🖐I know I'm very lucky to work behind the same guys who do the dot and dabbing who are very good👊Cheers Del
👍🇮🇪☘️👋👋
Thanks for watching John🤗Cheers Del
Peel the plastic off windows first much easier🏴👍
Hi Peter🖐My builders like me to leave the films on and they go round and cut them off with a Stanley blade when it's all finished and decorated👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Is it me or does that front window look a little short I height ?🤭
Hi Paul🖐There is still the curved external trim detail to finish on that window🤔Personally, I think the window installation should have been completed before I put the window boards on, but you can't always get what you want😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Who the hell measured the windows.? MASSIVE gaps around them. What happens if you want/need to change the window boards.?? What a mess that will cause .!!!!
Hi Patrick🖐The gaps around the windows will be sealed and trimmed from the outside, and foamed from the inside. The larger gaps also mean the inside of the frame isn't overcrowded by the plasterboard reveals👍Window boards can be removed easily with only minimal damage to the window or the reveals👊 (you just got to know how😉) Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
MDF and no mask?
Yeah, I'm terrible Patrick😵Whatever you do, don't do what I do👍Thanks for watching Cheers Del