Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Bernzomatic TS4000 Trigger Start Torch- amzn.to/2sAQ5q1 Uniweld Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2t5wsHW Uniweld Nitrogen Flow Indicator- amzn.to/2t54OuU Lucas Milhaupt AL 822 Rods- amzn.to/2sM8miI RectorSeal 8oz Bubble Leak Detector- amzn.to/2tZp5OO Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
I was going to attempt to braze a rear a/c line on an automotive application. I have never done it. We often just replace them. I thought I should check out some videos prior to making the repair. I used nitrogen to identify the location of the leak. It had not crossed my mind to use nitrogen while making the repair. This makes so much sense and will probably save any contamination from entering the system. It will be a bear to remove the line from the system for the repair, but I will. Thank you for being thorough. Even though we are in different fields, from one tech to another, I can appreciate your love for your trade. Thanks.
acservicetech, I just want to tell you thank you very much for always making very understandable videos. You always answer my questions quickly whenever I have a problem, i appreciate what you do for all of us techs. Please keep doing what your doing, you are awesome!!!
Have you ever tried this fix on a leak at the u-joint braze? Your videos are the most informative and to the point. Thank you so much for the time you put into them.
I've heard that brazing aluminum was possible but never tried it. I've actually had some aluminum coil form a leak right on the U turn like that. This is very helpful information. Thanks
Hi Craig, there is a new aluminum solder kit around from SolderWeld Mfg Part No: SW-ACRTC not only to mend leaks in coils but to also connect copper to aluminum pipes, with a separate flux bottle. You showed 5 years ago the Lukas Milhaupt solution with the flux core aluminum solder. I suggest you prepare a new RUclips video with the AL to CU pipe solder kit mentioned above. After all sweating and soldering dissimilar metals is something that is not that easy. You may also include this process AL to CU pipe sweat/Solder in your books
excellent video, there is technique and professionalism, really your guidelines on air conditioning issues are really very interesting. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Like so many others I appreciate your videos very much too. You are really quite good at it. The best part of videos like this one is that you fulfill my desire to know how everything really works the way it does and why. In this case, you show that an aluminum coil isn't necessarily a death sentence for an air handler unit if the circumstances warrant. Does it make sense to repair an evaporator coil in every case? Probably not, but it sure is nice to know that you could if you needed too and the customer understood their choices. I follow but a few, but you are a real gem. K
Hey ac service tech. It's Blaze from SoCal. I've never repaired anything aluminum but it looks interesting. Thank you for the great video! Have a great weekend!
Hello ! Thanks for the video, very informal as always! Quick question, have you ever had luck brazing aluminum spine fin coils? At the actual spine fins and not on the sides of the coils like in this video. I’m practicing , but it almost seems as though the aluminum in the actual fins is way thin. Any help would be appreciated thank you kindly and have a very wonderful day!
Give thanks to God that the aluminum coil wasn't Chinese, because if the coil was made in China would have disappeared in one second when you applied the torch
I am assuming because of the phosphene gas and oil in the system it is not recommended to repair a coil in the attic while still connected to the lines? Best to take outside where there is ventilation and “flush” oil out then attempt repair? Thnx
this is toooo easy out in the field you have two factors in play here. 1 is time 2 what is going to cost the customer. this is the world of YOU tube. using nitrogen I used it once in 22 years of a long career of A/C
Why didn't you flush coil with Acetone to get all the Oil out? You could then just blow Air through Coil until Acetone had Evaporated. This would have cleaned the inside of Coil very well. It would have removed any Scale built up. Just asking.
Well my first thought was turn the 15 degree.tip up but I remembered it that was a propane tank a yellow mapp gas would've sweat all those bends more damage than good but I meaner using a high silver wit flux so I guess just don't melt those epoxy connections to the low side
The problem with fixing on the spot is that there may be more than one hole in the evap coil. Sometimes there is only one leak. I have seen as many as 6 at one time on a coil. Sometimes the holes are big and it is in an easy spot or you need to get the building owner back up and running on the weekend or at night. New is better but we need to get them back up and running, regardless if the supply house is open or not, thanks!
That seems to happen when not flowing through a nitrogen flow meter made to keep the volume at 3 cfh. That happens when too much nitrogen is being forced in or the nitrogen is entering the tube right near where you are brazing. Make sure to enter the nitrogen on the other side of the tube circuit, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel where can I get one of these said flow meters? Seems like a great idea. Usually I'll compensate by doing my last braze without nitro right before the filter drier. Not much heat neccessary for a 3/8 liquid line. If any shit does get inside the pipe it gets picked up by the filter drier
@@Jim89240 I have the two versions linked at www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Either version will work but look how the port comes out of the your tank reg first for orientation. You shouldn't ever have that problem with the flow meter while brazing. You can also look up videos "acservicetech brazing with nitrogen" thanks!
Just starting watching your videos. I like what I see. Will continue watching. I have one question. Since my A/C unit uses 220 volts, when measuring the amp draw on the two hot wires leading to the condenser unit, I'm measuring 12 amps on each line. Does this mean that this unit is using 24 amps (both for the compressor and the fan motor)? If so, after looking at the nameplate on the condenser to determine what the compressor should be drawing, it shows that the compressor should be drawing 17 RLA amps. The nameplate for the fan motor shows 1.9 amps and I measured 1.6 amps. I'm confused. Please explain.
That sound right but I missing something. If both legs are carrying 12 amps, and both wires are leading back to the service panel, then should the total amp draw thru the service panel be 24 amps. I currently have a 50 amp circuit breaker which is two 25 amps circuit breakers together. I know the reason why they use 50 amps circuit is to account for start-up on initial draw of the compressor. Also, this unit uses 240 volts to run. If I want to know how much wattage this unit is consuming, don't you just multiply voltage time amperage. In my case, isn't that 2,880 watts (120V x 12A on each leg x 2). So technical, isn't this unit using 24 amps? Please help. Thanks
Believe me, I would love to stay with copper aluminum coils and I really like coils like ADP but unfortunately there are a lot of these aluminum ones out there and even the process elbows are brazed at a low temp at the factory. I am one that always brazes and never silver solders regardless the refrigerant. We have one at the shop at school and it's not leaking. We brazed it two school years ago. We have others the students have to fix and then pressure test, thanks.
I did not braze that in but it is in tight. We do what we can when we can. For something like that, if we were to run nitrogen, we would have to braze it while the nitrogen is running from the other direction otherwise the refrigerant hose would get melted, thanks toneblair!
acservicetech ok, that's good to know, I was trying to figure that out, that's cool that you don't have to braze it, but just get it tight enough to keep the flow. Thanks for the amazingly quick response, I have some other questions regarding subcool/superheat. I've seen a lot of your videos regarding them, but I will ask the questions on the corresponding video. Thanks!
Ok thanks. If you are on commercial jobs brazing larger tube like 2" you can just tin tape the nitrogen hose to the end and put a piece of tin tape on the other side and poke a hole in it. This way there is still non pressurized nitrogen in the whole pipe, there is always a way, thanks
acservicetech ok. I'm coming from the domestic fridge side, and I was wondering if you had to install a new compressor, how would you hook the nitrogen up to brace the service port on? Obviously, most fridges are not worth seal system repairs, but sub zeros and the like are. Thanks.
If you are brazing a service port on for the first time on something like a process stub, you won't be able to run nitrogen. We run it when we can and do our best to think out the job and that is it. Thanks and great question!
Hi Craig, I really enjoy your videos. Learned a lot from you. I have a window AC unit which was accidentally punctured on install and lost its charge. As you know there's no access valve to recharge the unit. Can you advise or do a video on how to repair such a unit, if possible.
Add a valve they have self tapping valves there in a blue little box and a window unit its gonna say 3/8 to 5/8 make sure the bolts on either side r tight and jus go for it mind u a window unit runs at really low pressure static
Man your using the wrong torch for this in my opinion. Where is your Acetylene Torch Set? You need to use a very small tip so you can control the heat and puddle. A Jewelers Torch would work fine for this type of welding.
Thanks for letting me know Larry. Was this video about the same volume as the two prior to this? I used a different mic on this that seems clearer I believe. I can see about turning the volume up before rendering the video. I turned the intro down some, thanks
Only a dry version made for a welding applications and probably not soda fountain co2 but I will tell you that I normally use nitrogen and manufacturers name nitrogen as the gas to be used. Thanks, great question!
I understand the nitrogen flow...... but...... in a real world application, and you're dripping your 3rd gallon of sweat, and is 2:30 on Thursday, you're not grabbing the nitrogen.
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Bernzomatic TS4000 Trigger Start Torch- amzn.to/2sAQ5q1
Uniweld Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2t5wsHW
Uniweld Nitrogen Flow Indicator- amzn.to/2t54OuU
Lucas Milhaupt AL 822 Rods- amzn.to/2sM8miI
RectorSeal 8oz Bubble Leak Detector- amzn.to/2tZp5OO
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
How much will we charge for something like that by the way great video
Just replace the coil
I was going to attempt to braze a rear a/c line on an automotive application. I have never done it. We often just replace them. I thought I should check out some videos prior to making the repair. I used nitrogen to identify the location of the leak. It had not crossed my mind to use nitrogen while making the repair. This makes so much sense and will probably save any contamination from entering the system. It will be a bear to remove the line from the system for the repair, but I will. Thank you for being thorough. Even though we are in different fields, from one tech to another, I can appreciate your love for your trade. Thanks.
Thanks a lot!
acservicetech, I just want to tell you thank you very much for always making very understandable videos. You always answer my questions quickly whenever I have a problem, i appreciate what you do for all of us techs. Please keep doing what your doing, you are awesome!!!
I appreciate your note, thank you very much!
Have you ever tried this fix on a leak at the u-joint braze? Your videos are the most informative and to the point. Thank you so much for the time you put into them.
Yes you can fix it there. If the leak is at the tin on a copper alum coil, you can cut the tin away to braze it, thanks!
I've heard that brazing aluminum was possible but never tried it. I've actually had some aluminum coil form a leak right on the U turn like that. This is very helpful information. Thanks
Always love your informative videos! They are all an invaluable asset to this community!
Thanks Forrest!
chemistry is like magic before our eyes.
Hi Craig, there is a new aluminum solder kit around from SolderWeld Mfg Part No: SW-ACRTC not only to mend leaks in coils but to also connect copper to aluminum pipes, with a separate flux bottle. You showed 5 years ago the Lukas Milhaupt solution with the flux core aluminum solder. I suggest you prepare a new RUclips video with the AL to CU pipe solder kit mentioned above. After all sweating and soldering dissimilar metals is something that is not that easy. You may also include this process AL to CU pipe sweat/Solder in your books
excellent video, there is technique and professionalism, really your guidelines on air conditioning issues are really very interesting. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Like so many others I appreciate your videos very much too. You are really quite good at it. The best part of videos like this one is that you fulfill my desire to know how everything really works the way it does and why. In this case, you show that an aluminum coil isn't necessarily a death sentence for an air handler unit if the circumstances warrant. Does it make sense to repair an evaporator coil in every case? Probably not, but it sure is nice to know that you could if you needed too and the customer understood their choices. I follow but a few, but you are a real gem. K
Thank you very much Kenny! I appreciate it!
I love RUclips!!!!! Subscribed to your channel!
Great video! I was stressing out the whole time watching haha - it’s SO easy to melt aluminum!
ha ha yes it can happen quick!
😬😬😬😬
Fantastic video! Keep it up!
Thanks Mister Bass Boost!
Great videos and great channel. Thanks for all the HVAC knowledge.
Thanks Kenneth!
Hey ac service tech. It's Blaze from SoCal. I've never repaired anything aluminum but it looks interesting. Thank you for the great video! Have a great weekend!
Hey Blaze, thanks a lot, you too!
Thanks a lot ac service tech, now I know how to fill the hose on aluminium coil .Have a good day. Dan ATL HVAC
Great job.
How did the holes form in the pipes in the first place? And won't they re-form?
acservicetech- Excellent demonstration video. Keep up the good work Cheers!!
What do you use to protect yourself from phosgene gas?
Excellent video!!!!
Thanks a lot Nor-Cal!
thanks for taking the time to make these great videos 👍
Nice and clean
Thanks for all the good info helps a lot
Thanks Corey!
Can you do a video based on low air flow, but utilizing good blockers on a evaporator coil to make air flow across coil sufficient please.
Hi, question, can i braze the aluminum copper elbows with this? should i used same technique?
Another excellent video.
Many Thanks
Thanks Drummer!
Hello ! Thanks for the video, very informal as always! Quick question, have you ever had luck brazing aluminum spine fin coils? At the actual spine fins and not on the sides of the coils like in this video. I’m practicing , but it almost seems as though the aluminum in the actual fins is way thin. Any help would be appreciated thank you kindly and have a very wonderful day!
Very good video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Channel Cat!
Give thanks to God that the aluminum coil wasn't Chinese, because if the coil was made in China would have disappeared in one second when you applied the torch
Nice.video
can you do a video of repairing epoxy coated micro channel??
I am assuming because of the phosphene gas and oil in the system it is not recommended to repair a coil in the attic while still connected to the lines? Best to take outside where there is ventilation and “flush” oil out then attempt repair? Thnx
Hold on, I have to put on my self-contained breathing apparatus and consult my MSDS sheet before fixing your unit ma’am.😂
Have you ran anything through the line to clean out the oils and refrigerant that remained inside?
Thanks for this video.... why did my local car radiator repair shop tell me that a small hole in an aluminium radiator can't be repaired?
They either didn’t know how to repair it or wanted to sell you a new one.
this is toooo easy out in the field you have two factors in play here. 1 is time 2 what is going to cost the customer. this is the world of YOU tube. using nitrogen I used it once in 22 years of a long career of A/C
Why didn't you flush coil with Acetone to get all the Oil out? You could then just blow Air through Coil until Acetone had Evaporated. This would have cleaned the inside of Coil very well. It would have removed any Scale built up. Just asking.
Great info!
Thanks Air Mechanical!
Well my first thought was turn the 15 degree.tip up but I remembered it that was a propane tank a yellow mapp gas would've sweat all those bends more damage than good but I meaner using a high silver wit flux so I guess just don't melt those epoxy connections to the low side
great video, thank you
Thanks willardearl76!
thank you for sharing!!!!!
Thanks Jimbola77!
how much would this cost typically?
I have a question. Why are you flowing nitrogen in a aluminum coil?
Good vid
Thanks Rob HVAC!
Hydrogen fluoride gas is no joke. I wear a full face cartridge respirator when brazing anything with residual R410a.
Is it recommended to do replace coils in the field or is it better just to replace them? I mean, how long does that patch really hold?
The problem with fixing on the spot is that there may be more than one hole in the evap coil. Sometimes there is only one leak. I have seen as many as 6 at one time on a coil. Sometimes the holes are big and it is in an easy spot or you need to get the building owner back up and running on the weekend or at night. New is better but we need to get them back up and running, regardless if the supply house is open or not, thanks!
I dont necessarily have issues with pin hole leaks until the last braze using nitro
That seems to happen when not flowing through a nitrogen flow meter made to keep the volume at 3 cfh. That happens when too much nitrogen is being forced in or the nitrogen is entering the tube right near where you are brazing. Make sure to enter the nitrogen on the other side of the tube circuit, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel where can I get one of these said flow meters? Seems like a great idea. Usually I'll compensate by doing my last braze without nitro right before the filter drier. Not much heat neccessary for a 3/8 liquid line. If any shit does get inside the pipe it gets picked up by the filter drier
@@Jim89240 I have the two versions linked at www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Either version will work but look how the port comes out of the your tank reg first for orientation. You shouldn't ever have that problem with the flow meter while brazing. You can also look up videos "acservicetech brazing with nitrogen" thanks!
How would I find a replacement coil for a Rheem RCTA A060? This is the last number I have for the original, RCTH-A060S, both are no longer available.
You could find a coil the same btu/hr size that would fit in the same coil box instead if needed, thanks!
Just starting watching your videos. I like what I see. Will continue watching. I have one question. Since my A/C unit uses 220 volts, when measuring the amp draw on the two hot wires leading to the condenser unit, I'm measuring 12 amps on each line. Does this mean that this unit is using 24 amps (both for the compressor and the fan motor)? If so, after looking at the nameplate on the condenser to determine what the compressor should be drawing, it shows that the compressor should be drawing 17 RLA amps. The nameplate for the fan motor shows 1.9 amps and I measured 1.6 amps.
I'm confused. Please explain.
RLA means rated load amps. When measuring 220 just take the full amps from one of the hot legs so it is 12amp total, thanks
That sound right but I missing something. If both legs are carrying 12 amps, and both wires are leading back to the service panel, then should the total amp draw thru the service panel be 24 amps. I currently have a 50 amp circuit breaker which is two 25 amps circuit breakers together. I know the reason why they use 50 amps circuit is to account for start-up on initial draw of the compressor.
Also, this unit uses 240 volts to run. If I want to know how much wattage this unit is consuming, don't you just multiply voltage time amperage. In my case, isn't that 2,880 watts (120V x 12A on each leg x 2). So technical, isn't this unit using 24 amps?
Please help.
Thanks
@@stevennahulak6768 no youre reading back emf through one of the lines coming in . its pulling 12 amps .
Why does this all matter anyway??
How many months did it last
Believe me, I would love to stay with copper aluminum coils and I really like coils like ADP but unfortunately there are a lot of these aluminum ones out there and even the process elbows are brazed at a low temp at the factory. I am one that always brazes and never silver solders regardless the refrigerant. We have one at the shop at school and it's not leaking. We brazed it two school years ago. We have others the students have to fix and then pressure test, thanks.
Did you braze that service braze that service port on? If you did, did you use nitrogen to braze it on?
I did not braze that in but it is in tight. We do what we can when we can. For something like that, if we were to run nitrogen, we would have to braze it while the nitrogen is running from the other direction otherwise the refrigerant hose would get melted, thanks toneblair!
acservicetech ok, that's good to know, I was trying to figure that out, that's cool that you don't have to braze it, but just get it tight enough to keep the flow.
Thanks for the amazingly quick response, I have some other questions regarding subcool/superheat. I've seen a lot of your videos regarding them, but I will ask the questions on the corresponding video.
Thanks!
Ok thanks. If you are on commercial jobs brazing larger tube like 2" you can just tin tape the nitrogen hose to the end and put a piece of tin tape on the other side and poke a hole in it. This way there is still non pressurized nitrogen in the whole pipe, there is always a way, thanks
acservicetech ok. I'm coming from the domestic fridge side, and I was wondering if you had to install a new compressor, how would you hook the nitrogen up to brace the service port on?
Obviously, most fridges are not worth seal system repairs, but sub zeros and the like are. Thanks.
If you are brazing a service port on for the first time on something like a process stub, you won't be able to run nitrogen. We run it when we can and do our best to think out the job and that is it. Thanks and great question!
Hi Craig, I really enjoy your videos. Learned a lot from you. I have a window AC unit which was accidentally punctured on install and lost its charge. As you know there's no access valve to recharge the unit. Can you advise or do a video on how to repair such a unit, if possible.
Add a valve they have self tapping valves there in a blue little box and a window unit its gonna say 3/8 to 5/8 make sure the bolts on either side r tight and jus go for it mind u a window unit runs at really low pressure static
Man your using the wrong torch for this in my opinion. Where is your Acetylene Torch Set? You need to use a very small tip so you can control the heat and puddle. A Jewelers Torch would work fine for this type of welding.
Great Videos but the audio levels are a bit low for me.
Thanks for letting me know Larry. Was this video about the same volume as the two prior to this? I used a different mic on this that seems clearer I believe. I can see about turning the volume up before rendering the video. I turned the intro down some, thanks
Lmao, it took me 6 tries to get a good joint brazed. Luckily I had 8 inches of aluminum I could practice on, I hate aluminum to copper brazing.
can you send me more Technics how to weld aluminum condenser or evaporator coil
can I use co2 instead of nitrogen.
Only a dry version made for a welding applications and probably not soda fountain co2 but I will tell you that I normally use nitrogen and manufacturers name nitrogen as the gas to be used. Thanks, great question!
If u need assistant i ll ready for work
Only i want to deep learn
I am technician working from 2 years
I appreciate it but I spend most of my time teaching now but also keeping the business running. Thanks though, I appreciate it!
@@acservicetechchannel sir plz make video on mini split ac troubleshoot
Thank you for letting me know what you would like to see
I understand the nitrogen flow...... but...... in a real world application, and you're dripping your 3rd gallon of sweat, and is 2:30 on Thursday, you're not grabbing the nitrogen.
It really doesn't take much longer to add the nitrogen flow. Once you get used to using it, it really doesn't add much time to do it, thanks
thanks for the video sir,