i remember back in 5-6 years , i was struggling so hard to select subject and mask it manually in lightroom. :D ... software tech is awesome. now its only 1 click..
A real masterclass in how to take a dull image that has potential turn it into an interesting and vibrant image by emphasizing the potential light that was hidden in the initial image. Thank you.
Hello Christian. Excellent video instruction for me as a beginner. Why do you go through the basics at first when you do all that comprehensive editing afterwards? I look forward to seeing some of your other posts👍
Thanks for the comment! With the basic adjustments I set up the photo for the upcoming, more specific adjustments. You could probably edit most images using only Masking, but that comes down to personal preferences!
Usually you do that because want the “detail” to be the finest as possible. Usually, you should put details at 100 and reduce the radius to 0 to enhance the micro detail without creating the grainy effect, try and test it with 200% magnification 😁
@@LaggerGG7Details to 100 may be incorrect in several situations, and even destroy the image if you shoot with Fujifilm (but you would only really notice in prints). The way the Detail slider works in Lightroom can be summed up this way: - when the slider is at 0, it is the equivalent of the Unsharp Mask filter in Photoshop - when the slider is at 100, it is the equivalent of a full Deconvolution approach Unsharp Mask works by finding the edges of every element in the image and ‘sharpening' them, without increasing noise. It basically enhances the contrast between adjacent elements. We use this in Photoshop as a form of Creative Sharpening. Deconvolution is a form of sharpening designed to offset the RAW softness caused by camera and lens limitations. It uses very complicated maths and assumptions to help restore detail. It is, in theory, a more refined approach than Unsharp Mask, and it is often part of Capture Sharpening. But it does bear different results depending on gear. I wrote a long article on my blog about Sharpening (mainly for Fuji shooters but still very thorough). Regardless of Detail, Radius helps if you find yourself increasing the Amount considerably, but both are often a matter of creative taste.
Hey, thanks for commenting and sorry for the delayed response @LaggerGG7 summed it up nicely. Applying these settings in my experience gives the best results in sharpening. Radius defines the areas around edges that get sharpened, so 0.5 radius means 0.5 pixels around edges will be "sharpened". Details controls the amount of sharpening on edges. Both radius and details combined that way gives a beautiful sharpening effect. (Of course in the end it always comes down to personal preferences)
I very much enjoy your work. Near the end of the video you moved over to photoshop because Lightroom was overloading your system. This is an issue I thought would make for a good discussion. Are the system demands (system overhead) of using LR masking greater then doing the same masking in PS? I believe it is. These days I do my file management and raw processing in LR but move to PS to do everything else. I do use the TK plug-in so I can Add, subtract and intersect masks. This gives me the same control as I would have in LR with far better memory management.
Thanks for commenting! I have the same feeling, LR ffels slower compared to the camera raw editor of Photoshop, especially when using things like sky masks. This can be really, really annoying when working with lots of masks :(
Grat video. Your thought on Adobe sharpening, Adobe or Topaz? Adobe has really up their game, I'm thinging other that severely needing sharpening, Adobe may be fine.
So how were the set of photos taken? Is it a camera setting which takes a series of photos at varying exposure or something else. Id like to take some photos of local scenery to try this technique. I assume you use a tripod too? Also Ive been playing around with PS Generative AI to try and add Rembrandt style lighting to portraits. Is there an easier way to do that manually in either LRC or PS?
Thanks for the comment! I shot this from a tripod and let the camera do the exposure bracketing. Most modern cameras come with settings to automatically shoot the bracketing sequence which you then take into LR or PS to merge to an HDR!
Nicely done, I have now Subscribed! I too have an issue with my LR crashing even after a video card change (8GB), doubling my memory (64GB), putting LR Catalog on an M.2 drive, and moving some files off my SSD C: Drive. It is a lot more stable now, but will still crash. This is with all my images on a separate SSD dive too. Running Windows 10, so who knows what Mr . Gates is doing with that.
Hi to both of you! Since you have experiences using Lightroom with the Apple Silicon. My current workstation is a windows desktop, GeForce GTX1070, 32 GB DDR 4 4000Mhz, I5 8600k overclocked to 4,3 GHZ on 6 Cores. I’m planning to change to the new Mac Mini M4 Pro with 24 Gig’s of Ram. Do you think it will handle Lightroom and Photoshop editing with several layers? I’m talking about heavy editing, even lots of masks in Lightroom. Right now even the 32 GB of memory on my desktop are getting maxed out sometimes and I don’t have any comparison regarding the Mac Silicons. Thanks in advance.
@ Wow! Thank you so much for your detailed response. That helps me tremendously. I think I do want to make a future-oriented investment, even if it might be a bit of overkill at first. I’m definitely glad to hear that even the M1 can already handle such large files, so the M4 or even the M4 Pro shouldn’t have any trouble with them. Thanks again!
Usually, I dont have issues with LR aswell, but for the past few weeks it has been terrible. There might be some technical problems with my system so the source of the slow performance might not be LR
i remember back in 5-6 years , i was struggling so hard to select subject and mask it manually in lightroom. :D ... software tech is awesome. now its only 1 click..
It has gotten sooo much better indeed!
A real masterclass in how to take a dull image that has potential turn it into an interesting and vibrant image by emphasizing the potential light that was hidden in the initial image. Thank you.
I love how you bring this directional light in a flat image. Really wonderful result, thanks for sharing this with us!
What an amazing tutorial. Thank you for sharing!
Great video. Thanks for sharing these techniques. I can't wait to try them out in my photos.
Best tutorials on you tube thanks
Very good video. I love your elaborate masking technique.
As usual, impressive tutorial, thank you Christian
Wow - that's impressive. I learned a few things, and now I need to practice with HDR merges.
Excellent LRC work
perfect
Fantastico!!!!!! 👏👏👏👏👏
thank you
Incredible work as always. Bringing a lot of artistry into your photography!
Thanks a lot!
Beautiful result! 👏
This is just plain excellent. I learned a lot. Thanks ~!
Thank you very much!
great, thank you!
I really like the way you manipulate the masks!
Great video as always Christian
Awesome 💪
What a professional you are, I enjoyed your video again....super!!!
Thank you!
thanks for the incredible video. Most of the channels doesn't show these many details. I learnt a lot with this. thanks again
Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing. great job,
Wonderful ! I am trying your workflow on my images and they look awesome.
Love your masking. I'm learning a lot 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks a lot!
Fantastic . loved it. your tutorials are really precise and to the point . Bravo.
Thank you!
I love it!
I would like to see a subtle light inside the middle window.
Thanks a lot! I actually tried adding light in there, but it didnt look convincing haha
Thanks!
Nicely done! I think I got lost in your adjustments but enjoyed watching!
Hello Christian. Excellent video instruction for me as a beginner. Why do you go through the basics at first when you do all that comprehensive editing afterwards? I look forward to seeing some of your other posts👍
Thanks for the comment! With the basic adjustments I set up the photo for the upcoming, more specific adjustments. You could probably edit most images using only Masking, but that comes down to personal preferences!
Christian...Could you please explain your reasons for always bring the Radius in the Detail panel to zero. You seem to always do it.
Usually you do that because want the “detail” to be the finest as possible. Usually, you should put details at 100 and reduce the radius to 0 to enhance the micro detail without creating the grainy effect, try and test it with 200% magnification 😁
@@LaggerGG7Details to 100 may be incorrect in several situations, and even destroy the image if you shoot with Fujifilm (but you would only really notice in prints).
The way the Detail slider works in Lightroom can be summed up this way:
- when the slider is at 0, it is the equivalent of the Unsharp Mask filter in Photoshop
- when the slider is at 100, it is the equivalent of a full Deconvolution approach
Unsharp Mask works by finding the edges of every element in the image and ‘sharpening' them, without increasing noise. It basically enhances the contrast between adjacent elements. We use this in Photoshop as a form of Creative Sharpening.
Deconvolution is a form of sharpening designed to offset the RAW softness caused by camera and lens limitations. It uses very complicated maths and assumptions to help restore detail. It is, in theory, a more refined approach than Unsharp Mask, and it is often part of Capture Sharpening. But it does bear different results depending on gear.
I wrote a long article on my blog about Sharpening (mainly for Fuji shooters but still very thorough).
Regardless of Detail, Radius helps if you find yourself increasing the Amount considerably, but both are often a matter of creative taste.
Hey, thanks for commenting and sorry for the delayed response @LaggerGG7 summed it up nicely. Applying these settings in my experience gives the best results in sharpening.
Radius defines the areas around edges that get sharpened, so 0.5 radius means 0.5 pixels around edges will be "sharpened".
Details controls the amount of sharpening on edges. Both radius and details combined that way gives a beautiful sharpening effect.
(Of course in the end it always comes down to personal preferences)
@@ThePhlogPhotography I'm very flattered about your comment, at least, seems that I learnt something hehehe Keep the great work up Sir
I very much enjoy your work. Near the end of the video you moved over to photoshop because Lightroom was overloading your system. This is an issue I thought would make for a good discussion.
Are the system demands (system overhead) of using LR masking greater then doing the same masking in PS?
I believe it is. These days I do my file management and raw processing in LR but move to PS to do everything else. I do use the TK plug-in so I can Add, subtract and intersect masks. This gives me the same control as I would have in LR with far better memory management.
Thanks for commenting! I have the same feeling, LR ffels slower compared to the camera raw editor of Photoshop, especially when using things like sky masks. This can be really, really annoying when working with lots of masks :(
Grat video. Your thought on Adobe sharpening, Adobe or Topaz? Adobe has really up their game, I'm thinging other that severely needing sharpening, Adobe may be fine.
Thank you for the comment! I never tried Topaz sharpening, for me Lightroom (or camera raw) is the only sharpening I need :-)
So how were the set of photos taken? Is it a camera setting which takes a series of photos at varying exposure or something else. Id like to take some photos of local scenery to try this technique. I assume you use a tripod too? Also Ive been playing around with PS Generative AI to try and add Rembrandt style lighting to portraits. Is there an easier way to do that manually in either LRC or PS?
Thanks for the comment! I shot this from a tripod and let the camera do the exposure bracketing. Most modern cameras come with settings to automatically shoot the bracketing sequence which you then take into LR or PS to merge to an HDR!
👍👍
Hi a question, maybe you have said it in the videos but I have not heard it, which interval do you use for bracketing in your camera?
Hey, I usually do +2 0 -2, either 3 or 5 shot exposure bracketing for my hdr images
@ThePhlogPhotography Great, I thought so but I wanted to be sure, thank you very much, I have learned a lot with you, greetings from Colombia.
Great and helpful Video. Thank you. Ist this the Haldenbergkapelle?
Thanks for commenting! It is indeed the Haldenbergkapelle :D
Sehr informatives und tolles Video! Danke dir dafür…Die Kapelle kennt man auch sehr gut. Bist du aus der Gegend oder auf der Durchreise gewesen ?
Vielen lieben Dank! Ich bin hier aus der Gegend :-)
Nicely done, I have now Subscribed! I too have an issue with my LR crashing even after a video card change (8GB), doubling my memory (64GB), putting LR Catalog on an M.2 drive, and moving some files off my SSD C: Drive. It is a lot more stable now, but will still crash. This is with all my images on a separate SSD dive too. Running Windows 10, so who knows what Mr
. Gates is doing with that.
I’m surprised that Lightroom is stressing your computer. I have a M1 iMac with16 gb of ram and haven’t had any issues
Hi to both of you! Since you have experiences using Lightroom with the Apple Silicon. My current workstation is a windows desktop, GeForce GTX1070, 32 GB DDR 4 4000Mhz, I5 8600k overclocked to 4,3 GHZ on 6 Cores.
I’m planning to change to the new Mac Mini M4 Pro with 24 Gig’s of Ram.
Do you think it will handle Lightroom and Photoshop editing with several layers? I’m talking about heavy editing, even lots of masks in Lightroom. Right now even the 32 GB of memory on my desktop are getting maxed out sometimes and I don’t have any comparison regarding the Mac Silicons. Thanks in advance.
@ Wow! Thank you so much for your detailed response. That helps me tremendously. I think I do want to make a future-oriented investment, even if it might be a bit of overkill at first. I’m definitely glad to hear that even the M1 can already handle such large files, so the M4 or even the M4 Pro shouldn’t have any trouble with them. Thanks again!
Usually, I dont have issues with LR aswell, but for the past few weeks it has been terrible. There might be some technical problems with my system so the source of the slow performance might not be LR
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the support!