07 Wrangler How to do Timing
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2021
- In this video I'm working on my 07 jeep wrangler 3.8l. I remove and replace the timing chain and cam gear. After that I get the timing cover all cleaned up and reinstalled along with the oil pans. Then I finish up with painting the engine to make it look a little better. If you enjoy or found helpful please show me by leaving a big thumbs up. If you want to see me finish this project up and future ones smash that like button and be sure to hit the bell so you don't miss any. Leave a comment with any questions or tips. As always thanks for your time.
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Thanks for taking the time to record and upload this. Very beneficial and helpful.
I'm glad to help. Good luck if your planning on doing the repair. Leave a comment with any questions and I'll try to help as much as I can. Thanks for watching
Damn all I needed was to see how you got the old cranck gear off
Little late now i take it, MAP gas torch to get warm and use diegrinder to fab jaws to pull. not sure why you would not replace if your that far. Spec also says ruler at top and rock the cam back and fourth. Anything more than a 1/8" is worn. USE TORQUE WRENCH.
The sealant mentioned for the upper oil pan gasket is supposed to go at the seams where the front and rear cover comes together with the block and that cover.
Thanks for that
Is it setup with the #1 cylinder TDC or the #2 cylinder TDC I'm curious cause I read a piece on the #2 TDC
DC4 or NGLI-2 grease works well for gaskets
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Thank you so much for sharing this. I'm new to auto repairs. Is that bead on the oil pan going to be too thick once it sets/expands from the heat? Sorry, don't mean to be rude, just curious.
no problem bud. silicone does not expand so it was fine. I had no leaks. the only thing you have to worry about is having to much and once the oil pan is torqued it could squeeze out into the inside of the oil pan which could get into the oil and possibly block oil passages or get stuck in oil pump or filter. I hope this helped. have a good day.
The 4 10mm (not sized by bolt head) get torqued first, then the 9 outer 8mm bolts get torqued and do them all at least 2 times. All the oil pan bolts get torqued to 105 in-lb. The joints where the front cover meets the block and where the rear seal carrier meets the block get a bead of sealant before the upper pan gasket goes on. I doubt that that big torque wrench is accurate at those low settings at all -- should be using a smaller in-lb wrench. Just my $.02, but what do I know (manuals and 50+ years experience).
Thanks for the input. I don't know everything and I never will. But it's still going strong so maybe I didn't do it perfectly but I didn't so it wrong wither
There is no need to put silicone on the outside of the bolt holes because oil is only on the inside part of it. The way you did it the first time was correct
I know it's not needed but it also don't hurt to do so. Some gaskets come with stuff around the holes so I do the same.
hi, very good video, please I need your help, I removed my chain cover to replace the gasket, but I am having trouble trying to place the cover back, and the problem is located with the actual oil pump and the shaft no matter how much I move it around it seems not to fit in correctly, leaving a gap of a half of inch between the cover and the engine block, PLEASE HELP!
Thanks for watching, I hope it helped you some how. In sorry I'm not sure what could cause that. It sounds like something I would have to see in person. The only thing I can recommend is make sure it's going back evenly. If the top is all the way back maybe it's binding somehow? Sorry I can't be much help. I hope you get it figured out. Good luck.
I totally understand that buddy... I was wondering since you already dealt with this, if the cover has to fit in with no problems or indeed you have to find an certain way to do it, or if it needs to be hit in with a hummer or what?...because don't matter how I try I cant get this cover goin in I find resistance on the shaft with the oil pump...@@dmwautomotive2291
Make sure the flats on the crank shaft are on the sides and the inner flats of the oil pump are on the sides, it should then just slide on with a bit of jiggling. It should slide right back and touch the block.
Great video. Really helped me understand my 3.8L better. I do *some* of my own work. Question: Why not replace the oil pump while youre in there?
I'm glad It helped. I enjoy helping people. It probably would have been a good idea to replace but I guess it didn't need it so I didn't think about it.
Bro, you were supposed to match the colored chain links with the dots on the sprockets, or at least count the number if chain links between the dots which should be 10 links.. even though it's hard to mess this one up, since it's a very simple configuration, you shouldn't just blindly go by the sprocket arrows alone
Thanks for the advise. I had no problems with it though.
Just watched the rest of the video 🤦🏻♂️ bro, I really hope it was your own car and not someone else's. The number of things you did wrong in this job is not something any mechanic should be allowed to. And then you may wonder why mechanics get bad rep? 🤦🏻♂️
I'm glad you got your own opinion. It ran just fine and still going strong. so thanks for the concern. Hope you have a wonderful day.