It's weird because my alternator took a dump on my GTR the night before I dropped it off at the port in Japan and you posted this alternator replacement the night before my GTR landed in America....lifes little coincidences. Can always count on you Goode!
LS1 alternator runs a constant 14.1 volts on a track day, brilliant fix . It will fit all RB engines not only r32 .Heads up on the pulley you will need to heat it up before installing, slides straight on. 👍perfect choice tho my voltage is perfect. I am running 3 fuel pumps and the SPAL 70amp fan which causes more issues with low voltages .
Hey there! Yeah, I actually talked to Andrew the owner of CWC after making this video and he told me about the heating of the pulley. I didn't receive instructions with my kit because I bought it in a group buy on facebook back in July and it came to me 2nd hand. But it all seemed to work out. Thank you for watching!
Hey Dustin. I got in late and watched last night and now I'm back to comment.😉 I don't know why, but I find it fascinating that an alternator from an '04 GTO fits your R32 GT-R (same plug in the housing). I just wouldn't have suspected that.🤔 About that terminated lead wire that you drilled out... I like how you held it with the vice grips... smart, solid way to hold a flimsy piece, keeping your hands safe.👍 I've drilled stuff out like that before and had the connector rip open just like that... almost acts as a lock washer.😁 It's still usable, so no worries. I've found when dealing with thin pieces like that, where the drill bit tends to grab, another solution is to use a die grinder with a "Christmas tree" style debur bit. It will open the hole without the bit grabbing and ripping it. The install looks very clean, like everything else you do to this car. Well done and nice presentation.👌 See you again real soon.✌
Hey Mick! Yeah it surprised me as well that the plug is the same, so many years apart and different manufacturers! Yeah man, I've tried more than a few times to widen the connectors before and they always seem to have a breaking point (literally) before I get to where I need to be. I have a couple of the Christmas tree style bits, just didn't think it would work any better than a drill bit. I'll give it a shot next time! Take care buddy!
My battery is relocated to the trunk and I used 0/1 awg cable. The stock wiring including fusible link from alternator to a distribution block is still there though. Check it out here - ruclips.net/video/huB5PBOCpUQ/видео.html
jealous, you got to install yours first haha. the day i was gonna do it.. i spit out a bearing ( or 7 of them i think herman counted lol ) glad to see you back at it bro
Seems you will need to loosen the bottom bolt on the cwc bracket aswel when adjusting tension. A bit of hazzle when all the rest is in the way. I'll be getting the ard 150 amp from nengun. I have 2 electric Spal fans now so gonna need it. I binned that old wiscus hp stealer.
At 8:55, when you're taking off those 10mm nuts, when I do that, my whole pulley moves and the bolts dont move at all, just moves the belt and pulley. What am I doing wrong?
@@Goodezilla No, it's not the fan that's the issue, I can hold it in place, but the whole pulley and belt spins along with the bolts. I try to hole on to the pulley, but it still rotates along with the bolts, same thing if I try clockwise or counterclockwise.
Seems like you didn’t read the directions supplied from CWC. They explicitly say not to hammer the new pulley on, but to instead heat the pulley up so it slides on easily. Additionally, had you read the directions you wouldn’t have been guessing where all the hardware went. The instructions also mention the earthing wire needing to be drilled out or replaced with a large size version. Nice video, other wise.
I'm glad to see you're an advocate for instructions, as am I. But, 2 years ago when I made this video, and CWC first started making the kit, I was not supplied with said instructions. I appreciate the comment though, as it does have helpful info.
I don't think it will bolt up unless it's the specific alternator from the GTO. A more powerful alternator will allow you to run more electrical devices without the voltage dipping below good levels. (like running more fuel pumps, or electric radiator fans)
I'm sitting watching now, my 1st question is why are you changing? I run the stock alternator and have never had one fail on my GTR or any previous Skyline I've owned. Is it just cosmetic?
The stock alternator is only 90 amps, with my upgraded fuel system and electronics I'm pushing the limits of the stock unit, so I upgraded to a more powerful unit.
GoodeZilla oh ok. I ran a separate power and earth from battery to pump to solve my issues though your running a bigger fuel system. Food for thought if I chase more power. Cheers
@@V8KILA You'll find if you ever run big boost, the fuel pump draw will be much higher the higher boost you run. that combined with lights, ac, other things that draw current the volts will literally fall off the map under that kinda load. so the bigger alternator is a must!
Thanks for the discount code, just broke down in summersville wv, waiting for my father in law to bring a trailer, had plenty of time at bob evams to watch and order
Do you recommend the LS1 alternator with PRP full conversion bracket instead of the 2 separate purchases? I’m wondering if there is any difference between the LS1 or LS3 GTO alternator ?
When I made this video, PRP was selling the CWC conversion kit and also selling their alternator bracket (which isn't needed for the conversion). I bought both. But now PRP stopped selling CWC kits and made their own version. As far as the alternator, I would only use the one from the GTO because I don't know if the other LS alternators have the same plug and/or bolt bracket design.
I got the kit but now I’m having trouble installing the belt. Some have stated to replace the belt with a longer belt (10mm longer - 4pk890) did you have to do this ?
@@Goodezilla tried to get the OEM belt back on but it was so tight i didnt feel comfortable with the clearance of the Alternator against the block. I went to the auto parts store and got a 10mm longer belt just as Platinum Racing recommended in one of their videos, if people bought their full bracket instead of CWC. works great.
@@user-mc4di7ve5r The PRP kit is different from the kit I have. They recommend a longer belt and I've read on some FB groups that 4pk905 is a good length for belt with the PRP kit.
I know it's been 2 years since you installed this (uploaded) but do you know if the LS alternator needs any of that hardware and brackets? You made a comment on the video saying you didn't need it but wasn't sure which you were referencing.
With my setup, you didn't need to buy the PRP alternator bracket, the stock one will work. You do need the CWC kit that comes with the adapter, and new pulley. But since the making of this, PRP has come out with their own kit. CWC still sells his kit too I believe.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
It's weird because my alternator took a dump on my GTR the night before I dropped it off at the port in Japan and you posted this alternator replacement the night before my GTR landed in America....lifes little coincidences.
Can always count on you Goode!
HAHA, glad to be of service!
I swear all your videos are so helpful while I’m building my r32 GTR. Thank you!
Thank you for the compliment! I'm glad the videos are helpful!
LS1 alternator runs a constant 14.1 volts on a track day, brilliant fix . It will fit all RB engines not only r32 .Heads up on the pulley you will need to heat it up before installing, slides straight on. 👍perfect choice tho my voltage is perfect.
I am running 3 fuel pumps and the SPAL 70amp fan which causes more issues with low voltages .
Hey there! Yeah, I actually talked to Andrew the owner of CWC after making this video and he told me about the heating of the pulley. I didn't receive instructions with my kit because I bought it in a group buy on facebook back in July and it came to me 2nd hand. But it all seemed to work out. Thank you for watching!
Hey Dustin. I got in late and watched last night and now I'm back to comment.😉 I don't know why, but I find it fascinating that an alternator from an '04 GTO fits your R32 GT-R (same plug in the housing). I just wouldn't have suspected that.🤔 About that terminated lead wire that you drilled out... I like how you held it with the vice grips... smart, solid way to hold a flimsy piece, keeping your hands safe.👍 I've drilled stuff out like that before and had the connector rip open just like that... almost acts as a lock washer.😁 It's still usable, so no worries. I've found when dealing with thin pieces like that, where the drill bit tends to grab, another solution is to use a die grinder with a "Christmas tree" style debur bit. It will open the hole without the bit grabbing and ripping it. The install looks very clean, like everything else you do to this car. Well done and nice presentation.👌 See you again real soon.✌
Hey Mick! Yeah it surprised me as well that the plug is the same, so many years apart and different manufacturers! Yeah man, I've tried more than a few times to widen the connectors before and they always seem to have a breaking point (literally) before I get to where I need to be. I have a couple of the Christmas tree style bits, just didn't think it would work any better than a drill bit. I'll give it a shot next time! Take care buddy!
Hey mate did you upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the battery? Ive heard stock cant handle that many amps
My battery is relocated to the trunk and I used 0/1 awg cable. The stock wiring including fusible link from alternator to a distribution block is still there though. Check it out here - ruclips.net/video/huB5PBOCpUQ/видео.html
Just got the alternator using the link you provided. Hope to use this in my 26-s30 build :)
jealous, you got to install yours first haha. the day i was gonna do it.. i spit out a bearing ( or 7 of them i think herman counted lol ) glad to see you back at it bro
HAHA, I installed mine yeah, but my car still isn't running yet! Soon though! Thank you buddy!
Seems you will need to loosen the bottom bolt on the cwc bracket aswel when adjusting tension. A bit of hazzle when all the rest is in the way. I'll be getting the ard 150 amp from nengun. I have 2 electric Spal fans now so gonna need it. I binned that old wiscus hp stealer.
Yeah, I may have to play around with it. But shouldn't be too hard to adjust. Thank you for watching!
DCPowerinc makes a 180amp and 240Amp alternator specifically for RB motors.
Yeah, I know there are upgraded units specifically for RB's. This is just another less expensive option.
@@Goodezilla The pricetag definitely depends on what LS alternator capacity you choose. Either way both great options for more juice.
Hey Dustin,
Thanks for the awesome video about this as just about to fit the same alternator and kit to my 32 👍🏻
Hey no problem man! :)
I love this channel.
Thank you for the support! I'm glad you enjoy the content!
glad to see you again
Thank you, Dustin!
Hey do you know if i would need to swap out the 80amp fuse to 140 after completing this conversion?
At 8:55, when you're taking off those 10mm nuts, when I do that, my whole pulley moves and the bolts dont move at all, just moves the belt and pulley. What am I doing wrong?
You probably need to hold the fan while you loosen the nuts.
@@Goodezilla No, it's not the fan that's the issue, I can hold it in place, but the whole pulley and belt spins along with the bolts. I try to hole on to the pulley, but it still rotates along with the bolts, same thing if I try clockwise or counterclockwise.
Hey Dustin what is your voltage now with the LS alternator ? And what was it before ?
Seems like you didn’t read the directions supplied from CWC. They explicitly say not to hammer the new pulley on, but to instead heat the pulley up so it slides on easily. Additionally, had you read the directions you wouldn’t have been guessing where all the hardware went. The instructions also mention the earthing wire needing to be drilled out or replaced with a large size version. Nice video, other wise.
I'm glad to see you're an advocate for instructions, as am I. But, 2 years ago when I made this video, and CWC first started making the kit, I was not supplied with said instructions. I appreciate the comment though, as it does have helpful info.
nice snap on work bench
Thank you! My kids let me borrow it for the video ;)
Thanks for all the educational videos. Quick Qs. Any reason you went with the 140amp n not the 240amp alternator?
Hey no prob! I don't have a specific reason other than I didn't need 240 amps worth of alternator (and I didn't see a 240 amp version).
@@Goodezilla yeah I used your link for the alternator and the part# also shows a 240amp.
Much appreciated!
Will the adapter work with an aftermarket LS1 alternator? And if it does, would there be any benefit to having a more powerful alternator?
I don't think it will bolt up unless it's the specific alternator from the GTO. A more powerful alternator will allow you to run more electrical devices without the voltage dipping below good levels. (like running more fuel pumps, or electric radiator fans)
Awesome video as always.
One question.
Where do you get your torque specs from?
Thank you, I got the torque specs from the factory service manual. And did the ft/lbs conversions - www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-torque-specs
GoodeZilla thank you for the quick answer. :)
Sorry for the random questions, but do you have a simple way of explaining how to adjust tension on one of these
My gtr squeels for a couple seconds when I start it and I think this may be the culprit
@@TheBlueteggy there's a long 10mm bolt on the alternator bracket that you can tighten the belt tension with.
I'm sitting watching now, my 1st question is why are you changing? I run the stock alternator and have never had one fail on my GTR or any previous Skyline I've owned. Is it just cosmetic?
The stock alternator is only 90 amps, with my upgraded fuel system and electronics I'm pushing the limits of the stock unit, so I upgraded to a more powerful unit.
GoodeZilla oh ok. I ran a separate power and earth from battery to pump to solve my issues though your running a bigger fuel system. Food for thought if I chase more power. Cheers
It’s prob cheaper doing the swap for future changes vs ordering a OEM, two birds one stone.
Yeah, upgraded amp alternators for the GTR are quite pricey. This is a good alternative.
@@V8KILA You'll find if you ever run big boost, the fuel pump draw will be much higher the higher boost you run. that combined with lights, ac, other things that draw current the volts will literally fall off the map under that kinda load. so the bigger alternator is a must!
so do you actually need the Platinum Racing Products Alternator Bracket on to the gto alternator? or can it just actually go on without it?
No it's not needed. It will work with the stock alternator bracket using the CWC kit.
Just wondering what the tq specs for the water pump pulley and the fan or do they even have one?
I didn't torque them. Just tightened them.
Thanks for the discount code, just broke down in summersville wv, waiting for my father in law to bring a trailer, had plenty of time at bob evams to watch and order
No problem man. Sorry to hear you broke down. I hope you get it back up and running soon!
@@Goodezilla , it happens, 30 year nissans. What can we expect
Can this upgrade be applied to the rb25det as well? It seems like it should work but I haven't seen any information one way or the other.
As far as I know, the kit will work on all RB motors.
Do you recommend the LS1 alternator with PRP full conversion bracket instead of the 2 separate purchases? I’m wondering if there is any difference between the LS1 or LS3 GTO alternator ?
When I made this video, PRP was selling the CWC conversion kit and also selling their alternator bracket (which isn't needed for the conversion). I bought both. But now PRP stopped selling CWC kits and made their own version. As far as the alternator, I would only use the one from the GTO because I don't know if the other LS alternators have the same plug and/or bolt bracket design.
I got the kit but now I’m having trouble installing the belt. Some have stated to replace the belt with a longer belt (10mm longer - 4pk890) did you have to do this ?
@@user-mc4di7ve5r I used the belt I had already. Using a longer belt shouldn't hurt as long as everything has clearance from rubbing anywhere.
@@Goodezilla tried to get the OEM belt back on but it was so tight i didnt feel comfortable with the clearance of the Alternator against the block. I went to the auto parts store and got a 10mm longer belt just as Platinum Racing recommended in one of their videos, if people bought their full bracket instead of CWC. works great.
@@user-mc4di7ve5r The PRP kit is different from the kit I have. They recommend a longer belt and I've read on some FB groups that 4pk905 is a good length for belt with the PRP kit.
I know it's been 2 years since you installed this (uploaded) but do you know if the LS alternator needs any of that hardware and brackets? You made a comment on the video saying you didn't need it but wasn't sure which you were referencing.
With my setup, you didn't need to buy the PRP alternator bracket, the stock one will work. You do need the CWC kit that comes with the adapter, and new pulley. But since the making of this, PRP has come out with their own kit. CWC still sells his kit too I believe.
What did u do regarding the fuse as they new alternator is 140 A and the fuse is 80A
@@ThugLife-qv7nz I use the stock fusible link, I have a battery relocation and use a circuit breaker.
@ what’s amp is the circuit backer. Assuming leaving the stock 80A fuse is fine ?
@@ThugLife-qv7nz Here's all the info - ruclips.net/video/huB5PBOCpUQ/видео.html
u are a mad man
LOL Why do you say that?
GoodeZilla
I guess its because youre putting a radiator from a pontiac into a JDM skyline?
@@atm31ac21 HAHA Yes that^^
okay so i bought this kit and it didnt have that new black bracket. i dont need that do i?
No you don't need that, you can use the stock bracket.
good
Thank you!
What's the amp for this ?
This is a 140 amp unit