That's a great way to visualize it. For me, you meant to reverse those numbers. You have the straight on shot as your 0. What you explain is the straight-on shot is really an 8, it's 8/8ths. The next one would be a 7 (7/8ths), then a 6 ( 6/8, or a 3/4 ball shot), a half ball shot is your 4, a 1/4 ball shot is a 2 (2/8), etc. That way you don't have to subtract the number from 8, it's already the right number of 8ths. It's great the way you line that system up to the diamonds. That's what I needed.
That works too. I wasn't thinking in terms of fractional overlaps. I was simply starting at 0 offset (straight in), and each aim point is an eight from straight in. Borrowed that method from a friend.
@@Poolology101 yes. Great work bought your book Crist, It would be much better if you would reverse the numbers to coincide with the fractional equation. would benefit/simplify things for those not as familiar with your work
07/08/2023 Been using poolology for about a month now (not fully trained lots more to go) Been potting more balls Recently got foot infection on antibiotics and came to league night to put foot up and chill. Well team was showing up late and I had to play or forfeit. With fever and in tremendous pain I played (stupid but done). Lost first game and went on to win three in a row just focusing on those two things. It works especially under pressure Only thing I focused on was object ball position and alignment. Lost first game
Guys, this system works. I have a math background, and when the author made a video explaining inscribe angles, I realized he was probably on to something. After all, circle geometry and collisions physique have been solved decades (if not centuries) ago. So I bought the book. Now, when I shoot, I first use the ghost ball to figure out what I think the shot should be, I then calculate according to this system. I then adjust accordingly. It has improved my potting. Nothing is perfect, but improvement is improvement. Better yet, it has improved my visualization of shots. When I don't do both of these steps, I don't shoot as well. Someone could say (perhaps even me) that the simple fact that I'm putting more time in calculating a shot is the real reason I pot better with this. Before this, it was basically a staring contest. If you can increase your potting with mental visualization, great, keep doing it. In my case, it gives me an alternate confirmation that what I'm visualizing is correct (within a certain tolerance). I would recommend this to anyone that are struggling with potting. Regards, Bertin
Interesting system. Does it only work when the OB is pretty much on the line 2 diamonds from pocket? In the video OB is on the second diamond line, and if aiming CB through OB centre will point at the 1st diamond from pocket, then it's a half ball hit. What if OB is eg. on the line 4.2 diamonds from the pocket (so just past the centre pocket) and aiming CB through OB centre would point at a distance of 2.1 diamonds from pocket (on the rail), does the system still work and would that still be a half ball hit?
It works all over the table, but the lines don't always conform or match up with the diamonds. Here's a video showing how the system was created... ruclips.net/video/b0YTaynsjtg/видео.html
I'm not gonna lie: I'm not a fan of systems like these, BUT, I think players can use them with sucsess to a certain point, and a lot of it has to do with them finding trust in their aiming through their system. This makes them stay still, focus more on speed control and delivery etc., at times where they otherwise would've jumped up, steared etc. So there are some benefits with it. I think the goal however, should be to just automatic aim shots AND trust them. If this system helps player achieve that, I'm not gonna argue against that. Thanks for posting!
I agree 100%. The main point I make in the Poolology book is that this system is designed to help players develop a feel for pocketing balls automatically, without having to rely on any system at all. Poolology is simply a better way to use and learn fractional aiming. The old-school "quarters" or "5 lines" is quesswork. What Poolology does is drastically reduce or eliminate the guesswork .
hey Brian. thanks for putting the work to create this system. while not yet fluent with it, it has brought a lot of benefits to my game. fractional systems, being fractional there are many in between values that we might be approximating. the open hand test where each finger is a fraction can clearly show the blind spots of functional systems. this becomes more problematic the further away from the pocket the OB is (margin of error is smaller) would it be beneficial to break the numbers down event further to 16s? for the current visual marks there is plenty of space between fractions to introduce those halves but i am not sure should the calculations be adjusted. what i am currently going over for easy of use is mapping some other common fractions of AV/PV like X/3, X/5, X/6 etc these are usually somewhere in between making the overhang calculation be something like 5.5/8 for example. i think breaking it a bit further would make these more precise. what is your opinion on this?
I like using the ferrule to help break down the in-between fractions. In other words, aim a quarter of a ferrule thicker or when needed. This is similar to what SVB does, using the ferrule.
Hi Brian. I am a fan of Poology. I bought both of your books. Just lately something has been bugging me about the original poology book and I'd like to ask you for a clarification. This happens in zone A in in the zones greater then 30. So, after the purely perpendicular zone lines on zones from 0 to 30 the lines are all perpendicular to the long side rails. After that they start to slant with reference to the long rail. My question is for example in zone 40 to 50 when you are trying to come up with a position value for the ball is the angular lines considered to be "Radial" in origin or horizontal to the short rails. In your book for example you show a ball position at 52 but is it in an angular locating method or how to you accurately figure the position value for balls in this condition. Thanks for the great book and for you help here. Greg Saiter...
The system was designed using radial/circular position lines. But it's easier to use straight/parallel lines to arrive at a position value between 40 and 50 or 50 and 60 or whatever.
When your cue ball is straight across aim ob ball on 20 and cueball on 20 line aim for the 7 and then slide over with a tip of right english, each shaft is a little different so can take some adjustment, its definitely a shot that is difficult.
Ever hear of anyone using the glare on the object ball? It's something I've used as a general point of reference/fractionally plus the actual point of contact standing straight on to the pocket.
Yes I have. Some people say it works well for them. The thing is, aiming becomes fairly easy once we use consistent references for a while. The mind makes it work.
Hey Brian, great stuff here. The diagrams in the book are really helpful but there are two zones I could really use the numbers in between the increments of 10. Particularly, zone A middle table from about 30 on, and all of zone C. Would you consider making a diagram like this? Also, what would be a good method to measure the increments on the table? I've been using my cue, is there a better way? Thank you!
Sorry for writing here but i don't know how to contact you. I tried today a shot from zone A, where the OB is on the 14 line. It's a shot more than a 1/2 hit that needs to be cut in the upper right corner pocket. The straight line from the CB to the OB does not go in the right cushion but on the upper cushion, near the first diamond but a little bit left. The value is 12. Using poolology he have 14 and 12 which means 1/8 hit. Something is not right here or i did not get something. I aimed for 1/8 and missed by a mile, it was clearly a 1/4 hit. I made the ball the second time center pocket aiming for 1/4. If the ball is in zone a but needs to be cut, so the straigh line goes into the upper right is something not right with the calculations? If we put the OB on the 10 line, and the cb a little bit to the right, than the straight line could even have a higher value than 10. Am I missing something? Sorry if it's not clear.
If you look at the line through the object ball in reference to where the cue ball is you can actually aim to a spot on the rail to be able to pocket the ball..if you look when the cue ball is at 6 ..it looks as though you can aim for the second diamond or close to it..
If it works for you, by all means do it. I don't like aiming beyond the ob, or beyond where the cb needs to be, so I'll never be aiming for a spot on the rail.
@@Poolology101 Oh I agree..i was just making a observation that there was a pattern to this also when referencing the rails..its a great system you created!
All feedback is beneficial. The system is helping thousands of players around the world develop a better feel or eye for aiming shots. So there's really no comment you could make that would change that fact.
The object ball can be anywhere along that line from the 2nd diamond to the footspot and it will work just fine. Don't believe me? Set a ball anywhere along that line (except on the footspot itself), then align the cb and on straight into the 1st diamond. The aim to pocket the shot will be a halfball aim, a #4 aim, which is aiming center cb to edge of ob. It works everytime, unless you stun the ball.
@Poolology101 my bad, maybe I am just misunderstanding you, so if you have the cue ball and object ball lined up for a half ball hit where you are set up now, and you move the object ball along the line to say 3" off the rail, it will still be a half ball hit because it is still on the same line...?
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That's a great way to visualize it. For me, you meant to reverse those numbers. You have the straight on shot as your 0. What you explain is the straight-on shot is really an 8, it's 8/8ths. The next one would be a 7 (7/8ths), then a 6 ( 6/8, or a 3/4 ball shot), a half ball shot is your 4, a 1/4 ball shot is a 2 (2/8), etc. That way you don't have to subtract the number from 8, it's already the right number of 8ths. It's great the way you line that system up to the diamonds. That's what I needed.
That works too. I wasn't thinking in terms of fractional overlaps. I was simply starting at 0 offset (straight in), and each aim point is an eight from straight in. Borrowed that method from a friend.
@@Poolology101 yes. Great work bought your book Crist, It would be much better if you would reverse the numbers to coincide with the fractional equation. would benefit/simplify things for those not as familiar with your work
07/08/2023
Been using poolology for about a month now (not fully trained lots more to go)
Been potting more balls
Recently got foot infection on antibiotics and came to league night to put foot up and chill. Well team was showing up late and I had to play or forfeit.
With fever and in tremendous pain I played (stupid but
done).
Lost first game and went on to win three in a row just focusing on those two things.
It works especially under pressure
Only thing I focused on was object ball position and alignment.
Lost first game
This is more complicated than CTE but i do love your enhanced ghost ball aim vid using 2 lines. That one was gold
Guys, this system works.
I have a math background, and when the author made a video explaining inscribe angles, I realized he was probably on to something. After all, circle geometry and collisions physique have been solved decades (if not centuries) ago.
So I bought the book.
Now, when I shoot, I first use the ghost ball to figure out what I think the shot should be, I then calculate according to this system. I then adjust accordingly. It has improved my potting. Nothing is perfect, but improvement is improvement. Better yet, it has improved my visualization of shots. When I don't do both of these steps, I don't shoot as well.
Someone could say (perhaps even me) that the simple fact that I'm putting more time in calculating a shot is the real reason I pot better with this. Before this, it was basically a staring contest. If you can increase your potting with mental visualization, great, keep doing it. In my case, it gives me an alternate confirmation that what I'm visualizing is correct (within a certain tolerance).
I would recommend this to anyone that are struggling with potting.
Regards,
Bertin
Thanks!
You will never understand this well enough to play a game with this nonsense
Interesting system.
Does it only work when the OB is pretty much on the line 2 diamonds from pocket? In the video OB is on the second diamond line, and if aiming CB through OB centre will point at the 1st diamond from pocket, then it's a half ball hit. What if OB is eg. on the line 4.2 diamonds from the pocket (so just past the centre pocket) and aiming CB through OB centre would point at a distance of 2.1 diamonds from pocket (on the rail), does the system still work and would that still be a half ball hit?
It works all over the table, but the lines don't always conform or match up with the diamonds. Here's a video showing how the system was created... ruclips.net/video/b0YTaynsjtg/видео.html
Hey Brian, the 6 position is a very good angle for going back and forth across the table in a very straight line.
Great point.
I'm not gonna lie: I'm not a fan of systems like these, BUT, I think players can use them with sucsess to a certain point, and a lot of it has to do with them finding trust in their aiming through their system. This makes them stay still, focus more on speed control and delivery etc., at times where they otherwise would've jumped up, steared etc. So there are some benefits with it. I think the goal however, should be to just automatic aim shots AND trust them. If this system helps player achieve that, I'm not gonna argue against that. Thanks for posting!
I agree 100%. The main point I make in the Poolology book is that this system is designed to help players develop a feel for pocketing balls automatically, without having to rely on any system at all. Poolology is simply a better way to use and learn fractional aiming. The old-school "quarters" or "5 lines" is quesswork. What Poolology does is drastically reduce or eliminate the guesswork .
hey Brian. thanks for putting the work to create this system. while not yet fluent with it, it has brought a lot of benefits to my game.
fractional systems, being fractional there are many in between values that we might be approximating.
the open hand test where each finger is a fraction can clearly show the blind spots of functional systems.
this becomes more problematic the further away from the pocket the OB is (margin of error is smaller)
would it be beneficial to break the numbers down event further to 16s? for the current visual marks there is plenty of space between fractions to introduce those halves but i am not sure should the calculations be adjusted.
what i am currently going over for easy of use is mapping some other common fractions of AV/PV like X/3, X/5, X/6 etc
these are usually somewhere in between making the overhang calculation be something like 5.5/8 for example. i think breaking it a bit further would make these more precise.
what is your opinion on this?
I like using the ferrule to help break down the in-between fractions. In other words, aim a quarter of a ferrule thicker or when needed. This is similar to what SVB does, using the ferrule.
Hi Brian. I am a fan of Poology. I bought both of your books. Just lately something has been bugging me about the original poology book and I'd like to ask you for a clarification. This happens in zone A in in the zones greater then 30. So, after the purely perpendicular zone lines on zones from 0 to 30 the lines are all perpendicular to the long side rails. After that they start to slant with reference to the long rail. My question is for example in zone 40 to 50 when you are trying to come up with a position value for the ball is the angular lines considered to be "Radial" in origin or horizontal to the short rails. In your book for example you show a ball position at 52 but is it in an angular locating method or how to you accurately figure the position value for balls in this condition. Thanks for the great book and for you help here.
Greg Saiter...
The system was designed using radial/circular position lines. But it's easier to use straight/parallel lines to arrive at a position value between 40 and 50 or 50 and 60 or whatever.
@@Poolology101 Thanks.
When your cue ball is straight across aim ob ball on 20 and cueball on 20 line aim for the 7 and then slide over with a tip of right english, each shaft is a little different so can take some adjustment, its definitely a shot that is difficult.
Ever hear of anyone using the glare on the object ball? It's something I've used as a general point of reference/fractionally plus the actual point of contact standing straight on to the pocket.
Yes I have. Some people say it works well for them. The thing is, aiming becomes fairly easy once we use consistent references for a while. The mind makes it work.
Hey Brian, great stuff here. The diagrams in the book are really helpful but there are two zones I could really use the numbers in between the increments of 10. Particularly, zone A middle table from about 30 on, and all of zone C. Would you consider making a diagram like this? Also, what would be a good method to measure the increments on the table? I've been using my cue, is there a better way? Thank you!
I will see what I can do. My daytime job has had me swamped lately.
Sorry for writing here but i don't know how to contact you. I tried today a shot from zone A, where the OB is on the 14 line. It's a shot more than a 1/2 hit that needs to be cut in the upper right corner pocket. The straight line from the CB to the OB does not go in the right cushion but on the upper cushion, near the first diamond but a little bit left. The value is 12. Using poolology he have 14 and 12 which means 1/8 hit. Something is not right here or i did not get something. I aimed for 1/8 and missed by a mile, it was clearly a 1/4 hit. I made the ball the second time center pocket aiming for 1/4. If the ball is in zone a but needs to be cut, so the straigh line goes into the upper right is something not right with the calculations? If we put the OB on the 10 line, and the cb a little bit to the right, than the straight line could even have a higher value than 10. Am I missing something? Sorry if it's not clear.
The system begins to break down the closer it gets to 1/8 shots.
If you look at the line through the object ball in reference to where the cue ball is you can actually aim to a spot on the rail to be able to pocket the ball..if you look when the cue ball is at 6 ..it looks as though you can aim for the second diamond or close to it..
If it works for you, by all means do it. I don't like aiming beyond the ob, or beyond where the cb needs to be, so I'll never be aiming for a spot on the rail.
@@Poolology101 Oh I agree..i was just making a observation that there was a pattern to this also when referencing the rails..its a great system you created!
Brilliant! .. there has to be a 4D science to this👍🎱
Thanks!
How can I obtain the visualization you are using to depict the system you use on your pool table?
@@lamontwilliams5221are you talking about the projection system (from "Illuminated Cueing Art's"), or the Poolology aiming method?
i deleted the comment i was going to make in order not to offend.
All feedback is beneficial. The system is helping thousands of players around the world develop a better feel or eye for aiming shots. So there's really no comment you could make that would change that fact.
Ridiculous, only works from where you have the object ball is move it two inches off that spot and everything changes
The object ball can be anywhere along that line from the 2nd diamond to the footspot and it will work just fine. Don't believe me? Set a ball anywhere along that line (except on the footspot itself), then align the cb and on straight into the 1st diamond. The aim to pocket the shot will be a halfball aim, a #4 aim, which is aiming center cb to edge of ob. It works everytime, unless you stun the ball.
@Poolology101 my bad, maybe I am just misunderstanding you, so if you have the cue ball and object ball lined up for a half ball hit where you are set up now, and you move the object ball along the line to say 3" off the rail, it will still be a half ball hit because it is still on the same line...?
@@midnightmadness406 yes, IF the centerline between the cb and ob points to the 1st diamond on the rail.
Not good
Ok