How to reset a daly BMS that is tripped. Be sure to have all load switches off before shorting !!!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 фев 2022
- What I forget to say was if you have a genuine fault where a cell is too low and the BMS will not reset leave the jumper on and charge the cells with the solar panels or a charger until the BMS resets. You will have to then find the issue and decrease or increase the offending cells volts and make everything balanced by charging a cell with a low voltage charger or draining a cell with a light bulb or paralleling the cells which is time consuming and takes the battery of cells out of the game fore the duration of the balance of cells.
![Daly BMS Won't Allow Charge OR Discharge?? [How we resolved this]](/img/1.gif)
I thank you. On a Lifepo4 4S battery I had 9.70v at the BMS output while the voltage is 14v directly at the battery terminals. I shunted P- and B- and now have 14v at the BMS output
So your back in Business ! This 12V 4s battery in the video activated the BMS most nights. This was because one of the cells was. Reaching the 2.5v BMS cut out Voltage threshold before the others. At first I thought I had a faulty cell. I fitted a ‘ flying Capacitors ‘ Balancer equaliser to the cells and those cells have not activated the BMS since. The balancer feed volts from the higher voltage cells in the pack to the lowest cell and ensures that battery cells runs down equally and lasts the longest time possible.
Thank you bro just what i was looking for...Peace
Glad it helped.
What the hack I can’t understand
@@farhan03002114171 Your ideal is amazing ideal it help me with my solar hook up..Thanks
Thanks, worked
THANK YOU !!!
I’m here to help.
I'd cover up the exposed cell connections, and use a big ~15r resistor to avoid the spark.
thank you but i think without bms the life of your batteries will be reduced the cell balancing is very important
What are you talking about ? That is a BMS. It it keeps tripping and disconnecting the circuit to the inverter and solar panel. You say cell balancing is very important, what has that got to do with this particular Daly BMS ?
I wonder how many people whose BMS turned off tried checking the voltages from each cell? You do know the BMS is there to protect the battery and you . anytime one of those cells gets to far out of balance it opens the negative line . Lifepo4 should be 1.2 to 2 volts on any of the 4 cells in that 12 volt battery so if any one drops to that it opens the negative line so battery work . I have located the lowest cell and charged it up to match the highest cell then make sure there all same voltage then let BMS and charger do there thing.
But a cell should never go low or high and activate the BMS cutout. The problem is people need equalisation on second hand cells like these and even new built Packs come with flying capacitors or other more expensive equalisation systems fitted. I made this prior to fitting a flying capacitor PCB ‘ and it has never tripped since then in well over six months since I did that.
@@Steveuploads Don't cells in a pack auto-sync voltages after about 24hrs anyway? So If I have a pack of 4-cells in a 12V battery. And 2 of those cells are 2.80V and 2 are 3.Volts - over time won't they all settle to around 2.9V? without any BMS, charger or equalizers attached..
All the cells react differently to being charged and discharged. For instance the take 4 cells charging. One cell will start to get closer to the BMS’s ‘high cell cut out limit’as you are charging them. Also the highest cell voltage will push up the overall voltage of all the cells before the other 3 cells have fully charged. Thus you may have 13.7V overall with one very full cell but 3 not fully charged cells. The same happens on discharging. One cell will drop faster than the others. In my experience the best thing is to fit a ‘ Flying Capacitors’ PCB. This will move high cell voltage to other lower cells and in discharging it will move voltage from adequate cells to a cell that is trying to empty itself quick. I have done this on a 12v and 24v system and never looked at the cells again. My friend did the same with a 48v system and said it didn’t work well. He ended up fitting a brand called JK and it worked for his cells
In bypassing the BMS, Is it ok leaving P- and B- shorted as seen on your video? My cutoff high & low voltages are 3.4V and 3V only. I was thinking of putting switch between P- and B- if I want to have more power after cutoff voltage.
Never bypass the BMS for more than a second to enable a reset. And never run with no bms in circuit. Especially with second hand cells which can go out of balance and have one cell go low volts on discharge or high voltage when being charged. Going outside of the 2.5v- 3.75v for LifePo4 cells is what causes cells to swell. If you have problems with the bms cutting out find which of the cells is going high and low and deal with it. How much experience do you have in this game ?
@@Steveuploads This is my first time to build 32650 LiFePO4 48V 18Ah for my ebike. I am using old Daly BMS.
Maybe it's time to change to JK BMS that is with Bluetooth so I can deal if there are defective batteries and be able to set cutoff voltages.
@@modernboy0921 you need a flying capacitor equaliser board if one of the cells is dying off early. The equaliser will transfer the volts from high cells to the one that will try and empty first to prevent the BMS cutting out. I’ve had great results from the one I have on my 24v set and this 12v system that would regularly go out coz one cell went low and stopped the party. Since I fitted a flying capacitor balancer it hasn’t cutout and no longer need to perform this reset procedure. Same on the 24v volt system of used cells I have. Although my friend, on my recommendation, got a 48v version 16cells and won’t stop saying what a waste of money it was. He has another 48v pack and fitted a JKong balance and thinks it’s brilliant. He has just ordered another 246A 48v pack and that has been made with a JK BMS and Balancer combo.
is that jump the main neg cell terminal to the neg output side of the BMS.?
Yes the jumper is attached to the Battery negative and shorts from there to other side of the BMS. Another commenter talked of how he did what I said and ended up with a big bang and flash. Some people should not be playing with electric 😀. Number 1 rule of disconnection or connection on live electrical wiring is be sure onward load is switched off when you pull or connect to a terminal live. Otherwise you will experience a flash as the load connects or disconnects.
OK, I did what you said. I don’t know how did you manage to create your micro spark when touching the blue and black wires but my SPARK blinded me for three minutes, burned down the XT90 plug and 3 fragments of burned metal parts of the plug landed on my iPad screen on which I was watching your instructions and burned three separate small holes in the glass of which one cracked the screen.
Every young electrician learns that when working live and pushing a live conductor into a terminal all onward switches should be open so no load is in circuit. The small spark ⚡️ I had was from the amp draw of the inverter which I didn’t switch off I guess but with no appliance was switched on so the little spark was the inverter amp draw. If you ever do energise an appliance in this way be very definite in you actions as you apply the shorting cable. A limp wristed approach will cause flash. That’s why switches have springs inside to close and open the contact fast. What was the reason for the Bms to activate and go open circuit? Did you check all the cells for which one was high or low ?
Are you sure you shorted across the Bms and not across from negative to positive? In the post I just made I assume you didn’t short from poz to neg . But if you got such a bang and flash … on reflection I would say you just somehow manage to jump from Neg to Poz and blasted 100s of Amps through you cables. One advantage of jumping with a small cable is the cable melts away in a nano second like a fuse if you do make a mistake so the flash is minimised.
@@Steveuploads My pack is 14S 52V. 18650 li-ion cells. When I measure volts for each pin, range is between 3.46V to 3.9V. So it seems all cells are within the range.
When I measure voltage between black pin and last red pin (white pin connector) it shows correctly 52V.
When I measure voltage between actual positive and negative ends of the battery pack, I get correct 52V. But when I measure voltage between red and black wire coming from the Daly BMS, (XT90 connector) it shows 39V. I checked how BMS is connected to the pack and it is all correct. When I use smaller wire for reseting the BMS as you suggested, and connect black to blue, there is no spark. Nothing. After that black and red still show only 39V and not 52V it should be.
@@Steveuploads Also when I connect charger, nothing is happening. It just sits there doing nothing showing solid green light on the charger.
@@Traderhood I’m not very familiar with these 18650 packs but I have just looked one up in google images. I don’t know if you connected the BMS yourself but one mistake I made and learned from was the Black BMS wire goes to the Negative and the next red wire in line ( let’s call that Pos 1 ) goes to the pos of the first cell ( which the black also goes to) to feed back 1 cell volts then red wire 2 goes to cell2 positive. Until the last 14th red wire goes to the furthest last cell this is so the BMS sees the 48v. If these wires are seeing the wrong voltages the BMS will not make a connection. In you setup I would short across the BMS from P-
to the Negative side of the first string cell. You must have shorted from B- to P+ to effect an explosion like you did.
@3:52 you almost shorted your battery ...lol :D
It’s a 2D video. How can you gauge the perspective of height above the terminal as I pass above it. How many cm away am I from touching. It was close though.
@@Steveuploads just look at the picture where you are touching the minus pole with you finger and the clamp is max 1cm from the positive pole and you dont even realize it. you were very lucky!
man, u just bypassing the bms, ur method just make that battery used without bms.
Man, that is the ONLY way to reset a "common charge/discharge port" bms like this model of Daly bms. You "bypass" the BMS for a second, just so that the BMS allows charge of the battery, which rises to a sufficient level for the BMS to not trip again.
Shitty design i agree, but that's what you het on the cheap models ;)
Just be sure to disconnect the load your drawing from the battery before making the bypass for a second. It works.
Also if you have a BMS cutting out look for the reason. The reason is normally one cell is going low or high during charge or discharge due to having no balancer fitted. One I fitted a flying capacitor balancer to this battery and my own battery pack at our house. I never needed to short/ reset like this again.
Why is this so complicated? Why can't you just disconnect everything from the battery then connect the charger? That's how they should make these things.
@walterbrownstone8017
Okay well the answer to that is. What happens generally is at the end of the use of the cells during night the overall volts gets closer to the inverter low volt cutout. If unlucky before you reach this cut off point one of the cells of the group will get low enough in its volts, 2.2v in the case of LifePo4 cells, to stop the BMS. At this point the BMS stops any more discharging or charging. Here lies the problem. You said can’t it just reset when you apply a charger. The chargers power will not be able to reach the battery due to the BMS switching out the circuit.
Personally I don’t think my method of momentarily bypassing the BMS for a second is complicated (!!! Switch off all load first or the bypass jumper wire will be carrying all the load of the inverter also !!!!) you cannot charge the cells without the BMS in circuit either with a charger or solar charger because if your charging option went faulty the cells would get damaged. Hope that helps.
@@Steveuploads What I mean it's when EVERYTHING is disconnected from the output of the BMS, open circuit, the BMS should reset and allow charging current. Then after the open circuit signal is received by the BMS you connect the charger and everything works great. That's how they should do it
I agree. And I did do it that along time ago and i believe it worked, I disconnected the Bms from everything and it resets. But if you have a nuisance trip every now and then it’s a lot easier for someone with no tools or even any knowledge such as my girlfriends father who sleeps on a remote goat farm with this system and may get a nuisance trip that needs resetting at 4am and doesn’t want to do a full strip down and rebuild at 4am. So this is the method I suggest for that reason.
Anyway I have since learned that the BMS tripping is not a nuisance trip it is symptomatic of a systemic issue that needs to be resolved. Look out for my next video.
@@Steveuploads There should probably be a master disconnect switch switch. I have a 24v ebike battery and it requires a 26v charging signal. It shut down and left me pedaling a few times.
wtf?
About what ?