DIY Vacuum Forming - Complete Video Guide
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- CHECK HERE FOR SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION & PARTS LISTS:
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0:00 - Introduction
1:10 - What is Vacuum Forming?
1:27 - What does it make?
2:18 - How does it work?
3:27 - Vacuum Forming Process
4:16 - Different Types of Formers for the DIYer
9:13 - Buck Design
14:49 - Types of Plastic
16:15 - Plastic Thickness
17:50 - Vacuum Forming the Example Buck
19:30 - Result of the Example Buck Forming
21:50 - Troubleshooting
23:51 - Closing Thoughts & Considerations 
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I've created a supplemental video going into more depth about the vacuum system I use. If you want to learn more about it, please consider watching it after this video.
ruclips.net/video/q0Zp1s8pynk/видео.html
I am seeking to make some shapes that are quite large(30” x 40”) but not so deep. The large production manufacturing places are charging a fortune for limited production of say 12-24 pieces. Any suggestions?
@@TheHighlanderprime Well, you can scale up what I have created here. To create a platen that's 30x40 isnt really a big deal, but one that can support a 30x40 buck would be another situation depending on your actual depth. 2" is no problem, but getting up past 6" requires a dimensionally larger platen (as well as much more significant vacuum volume, since you have more air trapped below the plastic sheet that needs to be equalized below positive atmosphere levels). Use the formula I gave you in the video as a starting point. Remember, your platen doesn't have to be square. You can make a rectangular shape using the formula for each dimension. Remember that formula is for the formable area, meaning you'll also have to account for any dead space you want on the plastic as a buffer zone (highly suggested) as well as any room to land your frames if using the gasket style I presented with. You'll also need a heater system to suit that size as well. The 24x24 former shown here is probably around $500, so keep in mind you may be around $1000 - 1500 with your larger former (vacuum pumps and heaters being the most expensive parts, as well as any metal adaptors/ball valves/and hoses). Now, this will give you the ability to make many parts, but if you don't see future projects in vacuum forming (depending on the quote presented to you) it may be cheaper to outsource it if all you need it for is this one project. You may also consider looking into the vertical style of vacuum formers. The frames and plastic sheet are on a vertical rail. Brought up to the heater (above), and then they slide down to the platen and buck (below) so you don't have to carry and line up the frames by hand. For cost and simplicity sake, I would still suggest the by-hand method provided you had someone that could help since it would save considerable time and effort by comparison. Also, keep in mind most full sheets of plastic are sold as 48x96 or 48x99. Depending on supplier, that would be your max frame size. Obviously a 48x48 would be ideal from a material preparation (cutting) and utilization (no offcuts) standpoint, provided the 40" dimension of your buck can fit.
Hi, thankyou so much for this video and all your detailed answers.
Do you know if there is a plastic I could use to make a motorbike headlight lens that would be strong and also very clear and uv resistant?
I'm thinking a thickness of at least 0.200". The lens is only 7x5 and about 2" deep so if I can I'd like to use 0.300" material, the most important thing is strength and clarity as I want to put an led projector lens in it, and hopefully an led drl if I can make it fit.
@@bigdaddy741098 Real headlights lenses are made from polycarbonate, which can be vacuum formed. I haven't done it myself since I haven't had a need beyond PETG, but looking at the specifications you just need to make sure you have a good heating element to bring it up to temperature (I'd suggest something capable of 200C/400F). You'll need to apply a UV coating afterwards (the kind usually supplied in headlight restoration kits), but I would chat with your local plastic supply about your application. Polycarb is pretty strong, so I would start with 0.125" or something in that range - which will also be considerably easier to heat and form.
@@mwjscn thank you so much for your reply and advice, and I will definitely try 0.125" first.
It will probably be a few months before I can get it all up and running, but I will come back and let you know how it went so anyone else can maybe benefit from my experience.
Maybe I'll also make a poor excuse for a video about it 😁
This is how "how to" youtube videos should be. Absolutely outstanding presentation.
Absolutely the best basic tutorial I ever heard on the net. Made this process easy to understand for those who never done it, yet are interested. It has enough information that people who have tried it could recognize something they have overlooked. It's not overly dramatic, nor boring. You have just the right amount of passion in your voice to hold ones interest.
Thanks for the kind comment!
Congrats, it's a really comprehensive vacuum forming tutorial, the most complete one I've found so far, and that's including the one from Adam Savage (tested)... not really a comment guy, but for this video, it deserves it...
Hands down the best guide on RUclips! If my teachers in school was this good, i would have been an engineer today!!! Thank you for beeing awsome!
Great job! Most in-depth and informative video that I've found. Thanks!
This is what i would call a perfect video, so clear and informative with exactly the information one needs, sad to see that there are not too many subscribers, from me you got an immediate subscribe. Thanks for the awesome video
Fantastic video! I've been researching for a week, and you've answered all my questions. Well done!
Excellent tutorial! Great info, well organized, no surplus chatter. I learned a lot. Wish there were more like this...
Best vacuum forming tutorial for beginners I have seen yet. Thank you
Just seen this video - without a doubt the best all round descriptive info I have seen. Covers all the major areas. Just built my own little former (for aircraft cockpits etc) and going to try it out as soon as find the PETG. THANKS
By far the best tutorial I’ve seen on vacuum forming. I picked up a few tips on improving my own vacuum forming setup.
Well done. This was excellent. There really aren't many good videos about DIY vacuum forming.
Great video, very informative. I’ve done vacuum forming In the past and I still learned quit a bit from this video.
One of the most informative videos on the subject. Great job covering detail.
This is the best guide I've seen on RUclips. Well done mate!
Your video has been more informative than any other I've seen. Thank you
Amazing. I’m definitely going to build something based on this design. Thank you!!
Good Job and thanks for this thorough and very comprehensive vacuum forming process overview...With few added calculation sheets, you can pass your final year engineering project with this...Very well done...Thanks again for posting.
Thanks for the superinformative video. Yours is one of the best, most thorough videos that I have watched on vacuforming. You should be a technology instructor. Thank you for putting the time to do this video. Just awesome video.
Your opinion is valid when you speak from experience, no need to apologize for speaking authoritatively.
This is the best video about how start vacuum forming!!! Thank you!!!
So far best video on vacuum forming
Wow, so detailed. Incredibly helpful video. Thank you so much!
Great and informative video. To the point, which is always GREAT!
Very nice and detailed information I have seen in vacuum forming videos. wish you good health and success.
Really helpful introduction to the subject, many thanks
Very informative video bro. You answered questions I didn't know I had yet. Thanks
For you do it yourselfers. WHen you run a heater, and then kick on the vacuum, you are likely going to pop your fuse. If you are not hooked to a good power grid. Or you cant get both your pieces of equipment on different breakers, the vac pump is the way to go. I personally use both. I turn on the shop vac to get it close, then hig the vac pump to make the seal tight and perfect. It wont typically evacuate all of my air, and it makes the re-fill process fast.
This is a great video by the way.
realy amazing video turorial, this is the best explanation that i ever see, CONGRATULATION!
Very educational and exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
Damn , this is the very best tutorial I've watched . Thank you veryvery much!
Thank you for the very helpful and practical information you have shared! 👍
Excellent filled in the unanswered questions for me thank you.....
Great video. Very well thought out and presented very well. Thanks
Finally someone got it right. Great video. I am a 27 year thermoforming Technician and many videos just don't understand how this process works but you got it.
excuse me sir, My project is design Polycarbonate forming machine (thickness~ 5mm), Could you tell me how much does the temperature increase every second to heating sheet?
@@anhnguyenlehoang5945 I have used blow molding in the past for polycarbonate material and to give a temp is impossible because it has a wide range of melting depending on the material and not knowing the draw of the mold and if it's a female mold or a male mode with the plug assist.
@@airwolf269 thank you.
@@airwolf269 excuse me sir, Can you tell me How much plate clamping force is enough ? I use vacuum pump with 27inchesHg
A clamp frame is only to hold the material while heating and to help with webbing while forming. Now if you have a inline thermoforming machie the chain will pull the materiel through the heaters on a cycle timer or called dwell time. The rails are water cooled to keep the materail in the chain while heating until it gets to the forming station then the clamp from is part of the water jacket the mold is mounted to. We ran the clamp at 25 psi and can adjust it as needed for webs and or draw. Vacuum pump was always at 30hg with 15gal reserve tank on the pump. Once the station close pressure form is then applied at no greater then 50psi so not to blow the box as many new mechanics do. Air eject again applied as needed normal 10psi will be applied through the vacuum port with 2 way valve for vacuum and air eject to remove the materiel from the mold. Sheet machine is also almost the same just no chain but on a rotary machine.
Thank YOU for sharing your knowledge and expertise regarding vacuum forming plastics. For approx. 25 years I owned and ran a decorative glass business in NJ - where we also got involved in the Historical Restoration of wood windows and doors in addition to leaded glass and kiln formed / slumped glass. It is quite obvious that not only are you well informed about this subject but you are articulate as well.
It is disheartening to see videos posted by amateurs who lack the basic knowledge of what they are talking about. However, THAT scenario is NOT applicable to YOU - as YOU are a professional in your knowledge about this subject AND in your methodology of presentation ! AGAIN, I THANK YOU for sharing your insight and knowledge about this subject and could only imagine how much grief and aggravation that you encountered to get where you presently are ! Glass slumping involved heating the flat colored glass to approx. 1500 * so it could slump into or over the mold - much like taffy - then it is allowed to cool and harden to maintain its shape. But it also has to be gradually cooled so it does not crack due to inner stress - called annealing. Somewhat similar to what you do by allowing the plastic to cool under pressure before releasing the vacuum. Wishing you and yours nothing but the best in ALL of your endeavors !
Thank you ! The best vacum forming vid on youtube!
You make it look so easy!
Awesome presentation.. Thank You so much for Educating Me on this subject.
best tutorial ive ever seen thanx my man
Great video!! I have a nice page of notes to get started here. Thanks!!
Awesome vid- thank you for taking the time to share, very helpful
I’m really late to this party but I want to say thanks so much for your time. Great information all in one spot.
So many things like this you have to watch many different videos and piece everything together yourself. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! I know exactly what you're saying, since it's what led me to create the video in the first place. I spent months just reading and gathering information from forums and other youtube videos, so I figured I'd try and save others the trouble.
@@mwjscn you did a great job. 👍🏻
Awesomely informative video!! Thanks!!!
Excellent video full of detail! Thank you
Thank you for this really good explenaiton!
Very well done! thank you for sharing your wisdom on this!
This is an outstanding tutorial
Thanks for the video. Seriously, This vid is the best out there.
Very informative, well presented......thanks
Thank you for this master class. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank's so much for all this informations !
Great (the best) thermoforming video! Thanks!
I have been looking for this video for a while. Well done on a great well detailed video. I'm looking to build an unobtainable motorcycle screen using technique. Cheers.
The best! Nice work!
Great information, thanks!
This is the best I've seen!!!
Thanks broo i follow your instuction avoid any mistake in the prossec of making my vacum former thanks broooo from heart
Great video explaining how to do.. thanks 👍
Great video. Great description.
10 star rating on this presentation
Great job.. Appreciate your efforts🌷
Great video, thank you!
I'm getting ready to build a box for vacuum forming and have watched several videos, but you're the first person I've seen who uses coins for air flow, and it makes perfect sense. I'm glad I watched this before trying my first pull. Thanks!
Glad to help! I can't claim it was my idea, but you can regard this video as a 'Vacuum Forming's Best Hits' album containing all the good ideas I gathered from across the web. Having some spacing underneath is definitely important, since it allows the trapped air to evacuate underneath the master which results in a tighter draw around the buck.
@@mwjscn That's exactly what I was thinking when I saw you do that. I have a question. I'm sculpting something that's about 4" wide and 2¼" tall and somewhat dome-shaped but not exactly, which I plan on casting in Ultracal 30 as the buck, and I have some .03 inch clear polycarbonate I was thinking about using, although I might get some .02 inch if that doesn't work as I'm hoping. Do you have any tips for that specific combination? Also, it looks like the holes in your vacuum box were spaced 1" apart, but what size do the holes themselves need to be for a project that size?
@@LesignerGirl If your end goal is to have the polycarbonate be perfectly see-through afterwards, I suggest some type of clear over your buck material. If the material is rough, it will transfer over to the polycarbonate and form a haze. If any material is loose, it may become embedded in the heated plastic. The holes I drilled are 1/8". You can use that size at any scale. I suggest 1" spacing at a maximum, which is what I used, but for smaller platens you can pack them tighter if you desire.
@@mwjscn My idea is to make a clear respirator that either has valves, or some type of cloth covering over the chin, that I can wear to prevent the spread of Covid-19 if I come across someone at work who needs to be able to read lips. It doesn't need to be absolutely perfect, but I would like to get it as perfect as possible. I think I can get a smooth finish by using my miniature silicone rolling pin on the clay, and the alginate I'll be using to cast that will keep whatever finish the clay has. Likewise, the Ultracal 30 should keep whatever finish the alginate has. I was thinking about buying a pack of clear plastic Solo plates to practice with before using the more expensive polycarbonate. If it comes out clear with the plates, will this guarantee that it will also be clear with the polycarbonate?
@@LesignerGirl Polycarbonate at .030 is going to be inexpensive, no purpose in testing with the material in a different format just to change for the real pulls. PETG would be even less expensive and much easier to heat to temperature (a 4'x8' of .030 PETG cost me $30 from my supplier) if you wanted to switch to that material. Considering the object is so small, you'll get many tries out of a single sheet of either. You'll likely run into problems with your breath fogging either material in your intended application, though.
Great video, exactly what I needed.
Great informative video! Nice work! 🙏
Good explanation
Why the f this video has only 6k views this Is si informative thank you !
thanks for this, very straightforward, given me the knowledge to 'go'
Awesome video.
Very clear explanation thank you 😊
Very informative, thank you very much.
Really well explained thanks !
Nice video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. New subscriber !!!
What a great video. There sure is a difference between a real pro and a hack with phone.
Great and informative video, just make a paused to buy a forming vacuum machine Formech 450 which cost 3.000$. I’m thinking if I can just build my own. What I realized that the vacuum power is the key of success. Thank you a lot for information 👍👍👍 .
nice video, thanks!
best and complete tnx
This has been a great video
very informative. thank you.
I have some aluminum hangers used for holding architectural plans that I think might work well for the frame. Since most architectural firms are going to digital designs, many places are now giving these away for free.
Superb video. Had it come up yesterday when I searched, my tiny 10.5" x 7.5" platen would have had fewer than its 486 holes that I drilled this morning!
Would be interesting to know if anyone has used one of the cheap 2-5 (US) gallon vacuum chamber/pump sets that retail around the £100 ($120) mark (Vevor I think) . They seem to be used primarily for degassing resin or silicone before molding but it looks like the release valve might be capable of creating a decent vacuum for small scale forming.
Great information
Great video very helpful and I Will be back to pick your brain on a project I'm thinking of doing if that's okay with yourself from irish Andy.
By far the best Vacuforming overview I have found. I built a small vacuformer from a hotplate with a foil lined box and a 12x12 vacuum bed using a small dirt devil vacuum. After watching your video I am much closer to figuring out how to optimize my forming (I have had problems with the plastic getting quite thin and with pinching near the corners). I wonder if you can recommend any cheap sources for Petg Sheets.
Glad to hear the video is helping! Since you're working at a modest size scale, you can find sheets on Amazon or other similar retailers. However, I'd always suggest trying to find a plastic supply depot near you. It can take some googling, but they're really the best option. They sell full sheets and usually cut them to your size requirements. I usually spend about 30 - 40 bucks on a 48" x 100" sheet, which for your size would be in excess of 30 pulls, at about a dollar-per.
Helpfull vedios thanks
Very informative.
hi
thanks for your complete guide
I have a problem
I use PET Sheet with a thickness of 1.8 mm for vacuum and I use an electrical heater element for heating the sheet, But my transparent sheet turns to white before complete sagging.
What can I do about this problem?
PET turns white or crystalizes when it's overheated. It sounds like you may be applying heat at too high a temperature. Try lowering the temperature and heating for a longer duration. In the video, I used 1.5mm PETG and with quartz heaters I have (1,500 watts individually, 3,000 combined), it took around 3 minutes at around 300F/150C with my enclosure to get to the correct droop.
Thank you
nice video! thank you!
i have a HF vacuum pump. looks like i need a tank to pre-load the vacuum so the plastic wont cool too much and act faster ?? i plan to use kydex for my holsters.. do you see any problems ??? at this point i plan to use peg board. the chamber im building is small 18" x 8" and very shallow maybe 2" or 3" ?? sry. hope im not asking too much.. thanks ron
Most smaller and inexpensive vacuum pumps doesn't have the draw necessary to evacuate enough air to work by themselves. That's why we use a stored vacuum charge system, where we slowly evacuate a container of air (make a vacuum) and then quickly unleash it at full force all at once. As long as you seal the platen box well and have a strong enough charge for your application, there shouldn't be an issue forming an 18" x 8" x 3" space. I've never worked with Kydex, but I've seen a lot of people use it for the application you want to so I'm certain there are some great write-ups other people have done on Kydex thermoforming floating around the internet.
Where can you buy those acrylic sheets (PMMA)? , or plexiglass in the market? that are thermoformable. Is there a link or website to buy online? Thank you very much for the help, best regards
hello! thanks for your thorough and complete video! I wanna ask a question, how can I simply calculate the required volume of the vacuum charge tank for given forming size? Thanks before!
This is a really good question and I bet someone with an actual engineering degree could give you a better answer, but I'll give it a shot. It really depends on your set up and planned bucks. With a vacuum/Dyson-style former, the air is obviously being evacuated, while in contrast the air tank system I have set up is "sealed" and the air is being equalized across the system - not evacuated. So the system vacuum has to have enough volume to equalize the air both in the platen chamber (under the hole array) and any air trapped between the plastic sheet and the top of the platen while still maintaining an overall vacuum across the board. As you can start to tell, the air trapped under the plastic is entirely dependent on how tall a buck you're forming. A short one will have less air between the plastic and the platen in contrast to a taller one. You could probably do some rudimentary calculation estimates on the trapped air in the lines to the valve, the platen chamber (if using that style), and a rough average of air trapped under the plastic for the range of bucks you plan to use. I didn't do any calculations for mine and it was a rough guess. I could probably do the majority of my pulls with the 20 gal tank, but I went 40 because it was cheap and I was pushing the size of my former with the bucks I had. If you are doing calculations, I would probably hazard a guess that a -10 to -15 inHg post-pull system pressure would work well, but vacuum forming is all about the initial pull. Even if the system is venting to atmosphere slowly, as long as you can maintain forming pressure on the buck for about 30 seconds you're good to go. By that point, the plastic will be moving below the forming temperature threshold. I hope that helps!
Great comprehensive video. Thank you!
I wonder if it's possible to vacuum form headlight lens?
You can, but it's probably a better long-term solution to get a replacement lens for the headlight assembly. If you do vacuum form one, you probably want to use polycarbonate which raises the difficulty level a bit since it requires much higher forming temperatures.
One quick question, for 3D printed master pattern, does droop temperature of the plastic matters. Also do you think some sort of high temp ceramic coating on the printed master like Boron Nitride (BN) would help.
It depends on both the material you printed in and the material you're forming with, since there is a slew of different melting points. I'd suggest following a guide online, since I've seen a few successfully vacuum form 3d prints.
great video, watched a bunch but yours had much more useful info.. i want to build one to do knife and gun holsters.. ill watch your video several time.. hope i can ask you for help..
thanks ron
I have a question 👋 I am needing to use vacuum forming for dental. But after I want to know if this plastic can to a complete burn out in the kiln burner using a flash. Do you know if this will work. I need it for making gold teeth.
I'm aware of vacuum forming being used in dental, but I have no experience in using the machine for that purpose. I would consult someone who has experience in that field, as I would imagine they would have some special food-grade plastic that is okay to sit in your mouth for extended periods of time.
good video learnt a lot does the strength of the vacuum pump make a difference. im about to build one to form new headlight lens's any tips are much appreciated thanks
You definitely wouldn't want anything weaker than what's in the video, but the vacuum pump strength basically determines how long you'll wait for the tanks to empty of air.
Great job showing how to. Would like to see the Heating Element. Want to make just like. Thanks!!
The heating element is shown @2:39. The parts list is in the description, but it's just two 1500 watt quartz heaters in a 2'x2' MDF box with some tin foil and HVAC tape.