Gorgeous floors and craftsmanship. Im fixing to refinish the floors in a few weeks so I'm trying to learn as many tips and tricks as i can before then to make the process as smooth as possible 🥰
yes, then realize that to start you need for the orbital eger you need disk 36 - for the first process for the second process disk 50. and for the final process disk 80 with Festool. this is valid for the corner this only for eger with disc 36 and 50 instead disc 80 is used for the final hand on the corners with Festool. instead for the hummel you will need a 36 belt for the first coat then a 50 belt for the second coat. and for the last procedure belt 100 . 👷♂️
if, however, your floor is made of pine you will have to do the first processing not with disc 36 but with disc 24 with eger. even with hummel 24 tape only for the first procedure.
the filler is done in two steps the first hand is done after you do the sanding with belt 36 if the floor is oak and instead if it is pine with belt 24 then the second is done before you do the final hand with belt 100
@@Ermes12FloorSander Thank you! They are old growth oak, very tight grains. So I'm going to do 2 sets of fillers? And at any point do I stain the filler?
What is the fluid you used to mix with the sawdust? Looking for something that would be available in the US that is similar to the Jenkins wood filler you noted. Is this just a liquid epoxy?
Hi .there is Bona mix and fill also Lecol wood filler wichbis similar to jenkins . I am not sure if you can get them in America but i should think so . You can also use pva wood glue to mix with saw dust for small gaps but its not very good for wide ones . Thank you for coment and viewing my channel.
Its mylands jacobean oak ,but different floors take it difenently this floor was particulary redish wood ,if you was to use the same stain in a paler wood it will be looking darker in that case you dilute it with white spirit to your liking .
Why is it spread all over and not just up and down the length of the joins? Also, would this work on much older floors(150 yrs old ) , just basic pine that has very wide gaps. Thanks.
I apply it all over as it easy to spread ,you can do just the gaps ,if the gaps are to wide you can pack it in the gaps will old news paper or mascing tape ,you could use wood wadges for the really wide gaps as well .
I've not been able to find the liquid you poured into the sawdust. I'm restoring a 1905 rock-faced block home, which was oak floors. I've done the floor sander from 24grit to 100grit. I am to the point of needing to purchase the filler, but can't seem to locate what people are actually using. Could you give me the same of what you're using? I know you have "Jenkins" listed, but when I Google that, it doesn't NOT come up with what you're using.
@@FaithRichFidlerdid the MinWax sanding sealer work mixed with the wood dust ? I’m planning to use it since I didn’t find the Jenkins product . Please let me know
Hi there, Just a question, can I use a hand sander for a project similar to this one? If yes, what grind size you suggest to use at the beginning till the end? I guess the best os to start with the tough one and then gradually move to the finest one isn't it? Thanks 😊
Hi .yes you could use a hand sander .(orbital or belt ) you shuld start with a 36 grid paper then 50 then a final 100 .il will not be as easy as if you use the havy machine sander but definitively can be done .
Thanks for the reply mate, another quick question. For how long does the saw dust mixed with the joint filler needs to dry? After the drying process did you sand it again? If yes what grit you suggest. I guess after all of that you stain the floor and than apply a primer maybe? After the primer you can apply the varnish isn't it? Thanks again for your replies 😊
and dry the file for 30 minutes. maybe the filer proceeded with 100 reps. base repeats 100 if you are not pine wood. Make a 150 disc bather. And if the floor is pine, there is no need for a bather. after we make these special arrangements. and after the stain dries, we apply varnish. thanks for the comment.👷♂️
even after we have given the first coat of varnish after it has dried well. if the floor is pine, we give it a hand sand with paper 120. if it is an oak floor, we must give it 2 hands of varnish after making a buffer disc 150. do not sand the floor, it will take 3 coats of varnish.
Is this a good idea for every zone in the US? I mean where temperatures that fluctuate from 10 degrees in the winter to 95 degrees in the summer, with the contracting and expanding isn't that why we see failed gap filler cracking up which then becomes impossible to refinish again without digging that all out?
when I proceed to fill the empty spaces in the floor I always explain that it is something that does not last over time, the filler falls off over time and because of the movement of the wooden boards that move or widen over time
Jenkins joint filler but any ressin will do and if you use the saw dust from the acctual floor will be the closest match as it is dust from the same wood .
@jakeb1778 then the filler is used before the final sanding with belt 100. I use the filler. and after that I leave it for an hour for the filler to harden. then I use the last procedure to sand the floor with belt 100. and for the edges I use the last coat disc number 80. then after doing this. apply the stain on old wood floors. the name of the stain is morrells light teak stain. for the color. after this you let the stain dry. I put 3 coats of matt varnish.
@@Ermes12FloorSander what sand pads should i use for the first sanding and what pads should i use for the sanding before sealer? Im thinking a heavier sand pad before and after really light one before sealer? Would this be correct the way? Cheers
so I use these crazy ones for the first procedure I use belt 36 for the first. second I use belt 50. and for the final process I use belt 100. also for the edges I use first process with disc 36. for the second disc 50. and for the last hand I use disc 80 for the edges.
you do the filler after you do the first procedure. for example you start to woo the floor with belt 36. also the edges with edger disc 36 when you do this. after you apply the filler. and then you wait 30 minutes or more for the filler to dry. and proceed with belt 50. then belt 100 final. done this. after you do the edges with edger disc 50 and to finish the edges do Festool disc 80
I don't know if the product exists there in United States. but you would want to use a product similar to what you find in your country. (I'm in Europe)
It depends on the floor ,if its pine floor and there is movement it will crack really quick ,also when the floors shrink and expand will crack ,at most will last couple of years in optimal conditions .
@@mattchapman8477 you let the filler dry for a few hours then sand it flat with the floor then you apply the stain .the stain take to filler aswell when you stain the floor .
this filler thing i always recommend its a short lived thing not long lived and the filler will fall off. people who choose it can't stand open spaces even if the duration is short
I don't know what your job is but as I wish you first, I wish you the best of luck in your job.✌️😁👷♂️ and I hope not to ruin them but to give them their splendor again.😁✌️👋👷♂️
The filler is done by mixing the dust from the floor that you sand with resin so it varies fron floor to floor depending on the colour of the wood ,but is the closest match to the color of the wood as it is the actual dust from it .
But it must be mixed with white spirit. for example a glass of akua filled with jacobean dark oak stain and two glasses of water filled exactly as done with white spirit stain. and you will have that color. 👍👷♂️
yes it works but first you have to put something on the spaces, for example tape on the spaces. stand a little bit close to the floor and then do the filer on the floor. wait for the filer to dry. sand the floor. and then do the second coat. before performing the last finishing process
in the first coat the filer should be not very liquid. but a little creamy so it sticks better on the sides of the floor it doesn't fall down. and on the second coat, more liquid from the first coat than in the first coat, so it will be better. hope i helped.👍👷♂️
after you put file, wait 20 minutes before sending it again with belt 100, after you have done this, paint the floor with stain and wait until it dries well. then apply the first coat of varnish duet and sand the floor with sandpaper 120 - 150 if it is pine or on the oak floor use bather orbital sander with disc 120 and finally give it 2 more coats of varnish
This would only help very fine gaps. There are no gaps in the floor it even looks like laminate, I have 1904 boards with massive gaps that amount of sandy crap would make a right mess and would proberbly turn dusty and come up with the hoovering. Caulking sealant and wood filler putty are my go to none of this mixing stuff myself, I do use a bit of sawdust out of my sander in big holes to help me use less filler though.
the liquid they show you in the video is called jenkins joint filler, it is a product. which is mixed with the wooden dust to filing the gaps to the floor
@@Ermes12FloorSander The beginning especially is catastrophic, we don't know what it represents, you know, making a video without post-production editing is really very difficult. However, since cinema existed, the camera has remained fixed, it is the subjects that move everywhere, in cinema as in video. If we can be lenient because we are not all professionals, we must not forget that even an amateur document must obey a few rules. Those who view an amateur video are the same audience as in the cinema or television.
Good content Pease keep on thanks for sharing video
Gorgeous floors and craftsmanship. Im fixing to refinish the floors in a few weeks so I'm trying to learn as many tips and tricks as i can before then to make the process as smooth as possible 🥰
yes, then realize that to start you need for the orbital eger you need disk 36 - for the first process for the second process disk 50. and for the final process disk 80 with Festool. this is valid for the corner this only for eger with disc 36 and 50 instead disc 80 is used for the final hand on the corners with Festool. instead for the hummel you will need a 36 belt for the first coat then a 50 belt for the second coat. and for the last procedure belt 100 . 👷♂️
if, however, your floor is made of pine you will have to do the first processing not with disc 36 but with disc 24 with eger. even with hummel 24 tape only for the first procedure.
liquid
is called Jenkins joint wood filler liquid
@@Ermes12FloorSander thank you 🙏💕
Thanks for sharing video
Looks awesome!!! Do you sand again after the filler dries? And does it take stain well? I always envision these lighter spots where the filler goes!
the filler is done in two steps the first hand is done after you do the sanding with belt 36 if the floor is oak and instead if it is pine with belt 24 then the second is done before you do the final hand with belt 100
@@Ermes12FloorSander Thank you!
They are old growth oak, very tight grains. So I'm going to do 2 sets of fillers? And at any point do I stain the filler?
but you have to pour the juice slowly until it remains soft
The floors look great!
I have now watched a video. I feel like I could do it without help……and I’m sure I’d let myself down. That herringbone looks great.
Bene fatto complimenti bell video 👍👍👍
Nicely done. Good editing
Thanks!
Perfect 👍👍👍
Well done good job 👍
very good!! Thank you!
Thank you too!
What is the fluid you used to mix with the sawdust? Looking for something that would be available in the US that is similar to the Jenkins wood filler you noted. Is this just a liquid epoxy?
Hi .there is Bona mix and fill also Lecol wood filler wichbis similar to jenkins .
I am not sure if you can get them in America but i should think so .
You can also use pva wood glue to mix with saw dust for small gaps but its not very good for wide ones .
Thank you for coment and viewing my channel.
@@Ermes12FloorSander
When you say PVA isn’t good for large cracks, can you still use it on 2-3mm cracks?
@krystleporter3778 yes you can use it in 2-4 millimiter gaps .
this is a good video, just a question, what color and brand of stain you used?
Its mylands jacobean oak ,but different floors take it difenently this floor was particulary redish wood ,if you was to use the same stain in a paler wood it will be looking darker in that case you dilute it with white spirit to your liking .
Why is it spread all over and not just up and down the length of the joins? Also, would this work on much older floors(150 yrs old ) , just basic pine that has very wide gaps. Thanks.
I apply it all over as it easy to spread ,you can do just the gaps ,if the gaps are to wide you can pack it in the gaps will old news paper or mascing tape ,you could use wood wadges for the really wide gaps as well .
@ thanks.
This is cool! When sealing the gaps, is there any concern for expansion/contraction of the wood?
Yes when doing soft wood it will fall and come out eventually while hard woods last longer.
I've not been able to find the liquid you poured into the sawdust. I'm restoring a 1905 rock-faced block home, which was oak floors. I've done the floor sander from 24grit to 100grit. I am to the point of needing to purchase the filler, but can't seem to locate what people are actually using. Could you give me the same of what you're using? I know you have "Jenkins" listed, but when I Google that, it doesn't NOT come up with what you're using.
you should look for it like this
👇
Jenkins Joint Filler Cellulose Based 1L
you can search on google for the liquid you need to make the filer on your floor
@@Ermes12FloorSander I've been looking, I found Minwax Sanding Sealer .... and I'm hoping it's close enough.
I think so and best wishes for your project 👍👍
@@FaithRichFidlerdid the MinWax sanding sealer work mixed with the wood dust ? I’m planning to use it since I didn’t find the Jenkins product . Please let me know
Hi there,
Just a question, can I use a hand sander for a project similar to this one?
If yes, what grind size you suggest to use at the beginning till the end?
I guess the best os to start with the tough one and then gradually move to the finest one isn't it?
Thanks 😊
Hi .yes you could use a hand sander .(orbital or belt ) you shuld start with a 36 grid paper then 50 then a final 100 .il will not be as easy as if you use the havy machine sander but definitively can be done .
Thanks for the reply mate, another quick question.
For how long does the saw dust mixed with the joint filler needs to dry? After the drying process did you sand it again? If yes what grit you suggest.
I guess after all of that you stain the floor and than apply a primer maybe? After the primer you can apply the varnish isn't it?
Thanks again for your replies 😊
and dry the file for 30 minutes. maybe the filer proceeded with 100 reps. base repeats 100 if you are not pine wood. Make a 150 disc bather. And if the floor is pine, there is no need for a bather. after we make these special arrangements. and after the stain dries, we apply varnish.
thanks for the comment.👷♂️
even after we have given the first coat of varnish after it has dried well. if the floor is pine, we give it a hand sand with paper 120. if it is an oak floor, we must give it 2 hands of varnish after making a buffer disc 150. do not sand the floor, it will take 3 coats of varnish.
Sei italiano?
Is this a good idea for every zone in the US? I mean where temperatures that fluctuate from 10 degrees in the winter to 95 degrees in the summer, with the contracting and expanding isn't that why we see failed gap filler cracking up which then becomes impossible to refinish again without digging that all out?
hi ,in areas where the weather fluctuate a lot its probably a good idea not to fill as it will eventualy crack and fall ..
when I proceed to fill the empty spaces in the floor I always explain that it is something that does not last over time, the filler falls off over time and because of the movement of the wooden boards that move or widen over time
Would help to know the products you are using
Sorry found it in your comments
the color applied is called light oak stain. and instead the product to fill the spaces on the floor is called Jenkins joint filler
thanks for your comment .👷♂️
If I didn't live in a four season climate I would have done this to my floors.
thanks for your comment. 👍😁
I want too do my Future Kitchen Floor in pennies after all it is .99 a sq.Foot and Germs and Bacteria do not survive on Copper🥳
@@MayhemMcLickinz-bq5zrterrible idea lol unless you don’t plan on selling your house
Looks awesome! What clear coat did you use on top?
it's called bona varnish matt
Can you still stain the floor after doing this
after we fill the spaces on the floor with filler we have to do again sanding the floor and after you can stain
Great video! What materials do you use to make the wood filler? And how do you achieve desired color? Thanks
Jenkins joint filler but any ressin will do and if you use the saw dust from the acctual floor will be the closest match as it is dust from the same wood .
@@Ermes12FloorSander
Do you sand the floor again after applying filler? What's the final stain/topcoat used?
Does the filler take stain?
@jakeb1778 then the filler is used before the final sanding with belt 100. I use the filler. and after that I leave it for an hour for the filler to harden. then I use the last procedure to sand the floor with belt 100. and for the edges I use the last coat disc number 80. then after doing this. apply the stain on old wood floors. the name of the stain is morrells light teak stain. for the color. after this you let the stain dry. I put 3 coats of matt varnish.
What product did you use?
il nome del prodotto si chiama Jenkins joint filler
What did you use to get the gloss finish?
It was a Bonna satin varnish .
What kind of solution did you mix it with ?
the name of the product is called Jenkins joint filler ,you can also lecol or bonna.
After filling with the dust did you just apply the sealer straight on or did you give it a light sand again then sealer?
After filler you sand it again then you apply sealer .
@@Ermes12FloorSander what sand pads should i use for the first sanding and what pads should i use for the sanding before sealer? Im thinking a heavier sand pad before and after really light one before sealer? Would this be correct the way? Cheers
so I use these crazy ones for the first procedure I use belt 36 for the first. second I use belt 50. and for the final process I use belt 100. also for the edges I use first process with disc 36. for the second disc 50. and for the last hand I use disc 80 for the edges.
you do the filler after you do the first procedure. for example you start to woo the floor with belt 36. also the edges with edger disc 36 when you do this. after you apply the filler. and then you wait 30 minutes or more for the filler to dry. and proceed with belt 50. then belt 100 final. done this. after you do the edges with edger disc 50 and to finish the edges do Festool disc 80
What two chemicals did you pour onto the sawdust?
It's called Jenkins Joint Filler
Is there a similar method and product for outdoor decks?
You can do the same thing for decking go through the same proces bit no need for filler and you use decking oil as a finish .
What do I mix with the saw dust to make the mixture to fill the floor gaps??
the liquid filler that I use is called Jenkins joint filler.
Is there a equivalent in the United States
I don't know if the product exists there in United States. but you would want to use a product similar to what you find in your country. (I'm in Europe)
So how long does the filler last? I can see it cracking and coming out fairly quickly
It depends on the floor ,if its pine floor and there is movement it will crack really quick ,also when the floors shrink and expand will crack ,at most will last couple of years in optimal conditions .
Do you sand again after you put the wood filler down, then stain?
yes after the filler you have to send the floor again
@@Ermes12FloorSander Thank you. Do dark stains penetrate the wood filler? Have you ever mixed stain into the wood filller?
@@mattchapman8477 you let the filler dry for a few hours then sand it flat with the floor then you apply the stain .the stain take to filler aswell when you stain the floor .
Any one else notice to door open by itself after he shut it???
The windows are opened throughout the house and the air is blowing
I have a door that does this all the time and it pees me off
Yes
It's a ghost
Wow looks amazing keep it up bro 💯💥
Is that the dirty sawdust you got from the floor sander??
yes
Floors are suppose too expand and contract?? Is this too save money on polyurethane??
this filler thing i always recommend its a short lived thing not long lived and the filler will fall off. people who choose it can't stand open spaces even if the duration is short
But doing that your going too ruin alot of floors
my job is floor seder.
I don't know what your job is but as I wish you first, I wish you the best of luck in your job.✌️😁👷♂️
and I hope not to ruin them but to give them their splendor again.😁✌️👋👷♂️
Try fractal burning a hardwood floor
What color is it after the filling? I don't want this dark brown color.
The filler is done by mixing the dust from the floor that you sand with resin so it varies fron floor to floor depending on the colour of the wood ,but is the closest match to the color of the wood as it is the actual dust from it .
Can this be done in four season house?
Yes no problem you can do it
@@Ermes12FloorSander Great. I will try it.
👷♂️👍
You left the edges unsanded?
I have done the edges ,you can see on my other videos how is done ,this video was to show the filling process and the finish .
in the corners and 2 procedures were done with Edger disc 36 and 50 and last process was done with Festool disc 80.
thanks for your comment.👷♂️
Whats was the dark color at the end you painted the whole floor
the name of the color is called jacobean dark oak stain
But it must be mixed with white spirit. for example a glass of akua filled with jacobean dark oak stain and two glasses of water filled exactly as done with white spirit stain. and you will have that color. 👍👷♂️
Thank you
@@Ermes12FloorSander does the white spirit cause the color to be a little later than jacobean oak brown alone
What is white spirit and akua are these paint thinner ?
Will the Jenkins wood filler work for large chunks or divots in the floor?
yes it works but first you have to put something on the spaces, for example tape on the spaces. stand a little bit close to the floor and then do the filer on the floor. wait for the filer to dry. sand the floor. and then do the second coat. before performing the last finishing process
in the first coat the filer should be not very liquid. but a little creamy so it sticks better on the sides of the floor it doesn't fall down. and on the second coat, more liquid from the first coat than in the first coat, so it will be better. hope i helped.👍👷♂️
and thanks for your comment
Do you have to sand the floor again thanks?
Hi ,yes you have to sand after the filler then laquer it
@@Ermes12FloorSander thank you
could not see the name of the glue
the product name is, jenkins joint filler
What is name or brand of wood glue? Thanks
the product name is, jenkins joint filler
Show me those same floors after 1 month
what tattiche are you talking about.?
looks amazing 🙂how long after filling and staining do you have to wait before applying the laquer? thank you
after you put file, wait 20 minutes before sending it again with belt 100, after you have done this, paint the floor with stain and wait until it dries well. then apply the first coat of varnish duet and sand the floor with sandpaper 120 - 150 if it is pine or on the oak floor use bather orbital sander with disc 120 and finally give it 2 more coats of varnish
thanks for your comment
Thanks so much! That’s really helpful :)
I'm glad I helped 👷♂️
Paranormal activity @ 3:12 👻
This would only help very fine gaps. There are no gaps in the floor it even looks like laminate, I have 1904 boards with massive gaps that amount of sandy crap would make a right mess and would proberbly turn dusty and come up with the hoovering. Caulking sealant and wood filler putty are my go to none of this mixing stuff myself, I do use a bit of sawdust out of my sander in big holes to help me use less filler though.
I agree with you ,that caoulking is better last longer but most people wont pay for it as it will be pricy but if you do it youself its cheaper .
I have watched 100, 000, 000 of these videos and still don't know what the liquid is
the liquid they show you in the video is called jenkins joint filler, it is a product. which is mixed with the wooden dust to filing the gaps to the floor
@Ermes12FloorSander thanks a lot my man!
How much are homeowners paying for this??
Now I'm living in Central PA
I don't know I'm an employee I don't know the costs sorry
I hope your getting at least 30.00 an hour
Bad video, howcome nobody can tell what product or similar product to use, this is the most important piece of info...
the name of the product how to fill wood floor gaps is called Jenkins Joint Filler
instead the name of the dye to paint the floor is light oak stain
@@Ermes12FloorSander👍❤
Vidéo absolument lamentable avec accompagnement encore pire.
thanks for your opinion
@@Ermes12FloorSander No wonder, have you seen the beginning of your video?
yes there are some mistakes in the video i will try my best in the next videos. thanks for the comment
@@Ermes12FloorSander The beginning especially is catastrophic, we don't know what it represents, you know, making a video without post-production editing is really very difficult. However, since cinema existed, the camera has remained fixed, it is the subjects that move everywhere, in cinema as in video. If we can be lenient because we are not all professionals, we must not forget that even an amateur document must obey a few rules. Those who view an amateur video are the same audience as in the cinema or television.
thanks for the comment I will try to make better the next videos
Absolutely no help at all unless their is a product link.
I'll try to put a link to the product. Anyway the product is called jenkins joint wood filler gel. 👷♂️
@@Ermes12FloorSander exactly! Great work! Might send you my finished floor in couple weeks!! Thanks for this video !
👷♂️👍
High-speed video + no narration + garbage music = useless video.
thanks for your opinion
What product are you using?
The name of the product is morrells black varnish .
@@Ermes12FloorSander thank you!