Help My ATX PSU Went BANG! Part 2 - ATX PSU Repair, Can We Fix It?
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- My PC was sitting there in standby when the ATX Power Supply suddenly went BANG. After this the PC would not power on. This is part 2 of this repair video, in one I found and repaired a short circuit on the low voltage side of the power supply, but it still did not work. Also I had not found what actually caused the loud bang. So now I need to investigate the high voltage side.
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Thank you
Richard
Hello Sir! With the help from your lessons I repaired my first PSU today! (and saved 20-30€) Thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Well done, and I'll bet the satisfaction is worth even more than the money saved 😁
Learn First Aid and you may be able to save someones life
uring my 30 years in the MILITARY - AIR FORCE
I took a paramedic's course [ at a MILITARY HOSPITAL ]
3 months in the classroom - deep learning
followed by a minimum of 12 months practical experience
and further training - one of the most useful courses I undertook.
Just one of many
Some will find watching fault-finding pretty boring, I'm sure, but I do it myself every day so I enjoy videos like this; gets me in the mood to do some work. Using various meters and getting stuck in is the only real way to do this stuff, anyway, so when a fault isn't immediately obvious, doing exactly what you're doing here and having the skill to understand the reading a meter gives you is going to give you results. People wanting to learn these skills will benefit from watching videos like this. Highly recommended by me, that's for sure. Just be methodical and eventually, anyone can repair things. Just do it safely.
i enjoy watching its how you learn !
@@KrissBartlett Indeed. 👍
Oooooh yes. The infamous 'Yellow Glue'. Many items I've serviced where this has been the cause. It will go ‘Pop’ with no real sign of component failure. Spotted it from the look around. When it goes off yellow it becomes conductive.
As an aside, and you want to confirm the component tester, working out the terminations for a bipolar transistor is easy with the multi meter diode test function. Base emitter will always read higher than base collector. Not by much, but still higher. And a very ruff indication is the larger the difference, the higher the gain.
Love your content and thank you so much for making it.
Cheers
Pete’ New Zealand.
Seen lots if glue shorts that cause the very issue you are having here. Was the very first thing I noticed when doing visual checks. And change that battery on your analyzer! Great video!
Nice job Richard working through the circuit. That idea of using 2 meters to test the opto is good. It gave me the idea of using 1 of those cheap component testers clipped onto 1 side and a meter on the other. Handy if you only have 1 meter. And with the clips you don't need 4 hands to do it. Which was nicely done by Julie if I may say. Come to think about it, you could of probably used the component tester you used for testing the transistor 😄
Yeah that would do it. Even a battery and a resistor could be used to light the opto isolator LED
The base of the transistor in an optocoupler is buried inside the component package. So the only way to fully test it is to activate the LED. The opto uses the photoelectric effect to work. It would be difficult to use a component tester to test an opto. They generally pulse their test signal so that'd be hard to interpret. Meters on the other hand just output a voltage in diode check. A case where programmed automation isn't helping you.
I've used a cheap TC1 component tester to test an opto together with a meter and it works no problems. @@1pcfred
Good catch with that pinout mismatch! It could be easily overlooked and cause a lot of unnecessary work.
I checked for alternatives on alltransistor, it listed many variants of ss8050 as replacement for 8050ss. Only one mentioned the pinout but the pinout had never been mentioned for the 8050ss so there was nothing to tell anyone that it was different. Perhaps all the other ss8050 variants had the same pinout as 8050ss.
That's the real trick with everything. Assumptions are what will get you every time. Don't think, know. Because in the end what you think is never of any real consequence.
Yep. Miss that and you may well never figure out what is wrong with the PSU
I've had to perform this exact repair a few times, although every time I had a shorted switching transistor as well. I'm really surprised it survived here, the blown input resistor is generally a result of overcurrent through the switching transistor because of a short, and the blown driving transistor is either the cause or the result of the failure of the switching transistor. I'd probably have replaced the switching transistor anyway, one little thing going wrong in the primary and you get nice fireworks, and sometimes even if static parameters measure fine it's still out of specs (like much worse timings).
There are a couple of situations I remember I could identify the overall cause of the failure, one was dust build-up catching humidity and arcing across the bridge rectifier pins, resulting in some AC passing through it (so of course if it reverse-biases some semi-conductor that's pretty destructive), and the other was a short to ground on the 5VSB on the motherboard. With a good PSU, that second failure should never have damaged the PSU, but when there's no protection at all that's what happens.
As a side note, I've also seen several failures of another design of the 5VSB circuit, the one using the TNY279/TNY280 SMPS IC, which is supposed to have some sort of protections built-in at least, it explodes for no reason and the input resistor goes with it.
While doing these repairs it's always a good idea to check/replace the output capacitor as well, on slightly older PSUs it's common to see them go bad, and it can be the cause of additional stress on the rest of the circuit, which could cause a failure of the switching transistor or the secondary rectifier.
Hi Pernov, if saw part one then you will know that I also had a shorted rectifier diode on the low voltage side 5VSB
Well done. If anything this video serves to show that if you don't give up the repair always has a chance of being successful even if it takes years to fix it. I have several jobs like that but I did not fail to fix them (yet) because I'm going to get back to them eventually after some thinking. Really I am hehe!
that is why we use ad blockers !!
Fricking masterclass. So many tips 'n' tricks in one video. You make it look easy Richard.
Thank You 🙂
About the ads in your browser: I never surf the web without at least UBlock installed. For really sensitive systems I usually add NoScript, even though that can be a bit of a hassle to configure for each website. This not only gets rid of most of the ads, some ad scripts even introduce vulnerabilities to the site and in extension: to your computer.
As allways very good and interesting. Thank you very much for showing all even the problems you had to repair this. It was a real repair. Please continue like this. It is the best way to learn and to fix. I am allways anxious even with the HV but I have seen how to do and what to do. Thank you very much!
Good job well done Richard!
Wait... Bodging the leads of transistors to make the pinout fit isn't considered professional? Oops...
I repaired a circuit on my friends fog machine last night, thanks to inspiration from this channel. I really hated pulling those SMD Y1 transistors to test them and put them back, but after 5 hours of work I fixed it and I made $20! I wouldn't have normally bothered, but the first guy she asked said it couldn't be fixed easily... Challenge accepted!
And the challenge is often why we do this, well done and no doubt very satisfying too.
Nice result and mystery bang found. Well done. I personally approve of using what inventory you have on hand even if some "rigging" is involved to make things fit. Really good reminder to check the markings carefully and pay attention to what the analyzer tells you vs what you think it should tell you. Oh, and I ordered battery's for miy analyzer just now. Thanks for the reminder! Happy New Year!
When testing semiconductors, my go-to instrument is what is often referred to as the ''In Circuit Transistor Tester'' although it does do diodes, transistors and thyristors too.
I often use it just in diode mode and test transistors in two passes rather than connecting all 3 leads. It's a DIY Tester, and my number 1 semiconductor tester......PERIOD! It's that good.
With this tester, I can go through a board in a couple of minutes or less. I may have to pull one side of a few devices if they are connected to low resistance components like inductors etc. but you can whip through 80 to 90% of the discrete semiconductors on a PCB VERY quickly when compared to a multimeter. The link is below. THE SCHEMATIC HAS ERRORS! READ BELOW !!!!
Transistor Tester Errata: The 100R Resistor is R2 and not R5 as labelled, it also, only connects between positive supply and D on the switch, It DOES NOT connect to Pin 5 of IC1 as shown.
R1-330k DOES NOT connect to Pin 7 (0V) of IC1.
baec.tripod.com/JULY92/transistor_tester.htm
Here is a variation of the above design using a 4093 instead of a 556 Dual Timer. s2ptech.blogspot.com/2012/03/how-to-make-tester-for-diodes.html
Here is a link to all 1983 editions of Television Magazine in pdf. Number 6 (June) is the edition that has the In Circuit Transistor Tester in it.
www.mediafire.com/folder/oulrvm1jqy9n9/1983+Television
Thanks for the info and link. I'll take a look at that
Wow, thanks for all that info and magazines! Do you have more?
G,day from Sydney Australia.
I repaired a pizza oven.
Large oven with control tower box. Customer complaint: not heating and maintained. Also trips circuit breaker 415 v three phase at the distribution board.
Service repair
* turn off AC
* Remove control panel screws
* disconnect pin plugs
* Read schematics in manual
* test battery 32 (3v) round in circuit - result 0.00
* spray PCB with isopropyl alcohol and brushing
* replace 3v battery "a claim of petty cash" $3.05 each
*Check all wires, plug and connections
* replace the front LCD panel
* test the oven with a multimeter and thermocouple K type to 330°c
Notes: noticed a large black capacitor and large blue possible diodes on PCB very basic.
🔋💫
30:17 we love you Julie
Well done sir.
Have an old ATX with the exact same symptoms. This gives me a bit of direction.
Well done Richard. That was a great watch.
I bentnalso pins like that on old electronics when i changed germanium to silicon.....perfect solution!
That was quite a journey - well done.
Lovely work
Richard. Have you tried using the little test-holes on the Newcason cap meter for those small caps? Much easier than fumbling with test leads. Right there between the red & blue buttons!
I’ve often wondered this too. Without solder lumps obs
Thats experience, confidence and a heathy relationship with lady luck ! and a good overall technique but mostly experience...cheers.
Great interesting fix yet again Richard..as for those annoying ads on websites I have to put up with them every 6-7 minutes when watching your videos. Tho at least I’m learning something each time so I can live with it. All the best 👍
Omg.
Just before testing the opto isolator i was thinking, now lets see how to do it. Then u brought 2 multimeter and i showed my hand into my forehead and thought. Ofc....why the hell didnt i think of that 🤣
great fix
There is something oddly satisfying when sucking up solder with braid.
Another awesome video 👌👌
I've watched your equipment reviews, and bought some as a direct result, but I may have missed, or is that a video to come, a test review of a 'Julie' !
Where do I get one and are the any good or do they occasionally go faulty and require a reboot ? 🤣😆
Unfortunately for you there is only one Julie 😁
Nice one Richard well done 😊
For a learning exercise this was brilliant, but for the time and effort it was not worth it as you could have bought a new one reactively cheap compared to your labour and time.
I don't really agree... Without recording Richard would fix this much quicker. Richard has al components and equipment to fix it. So no waiting time ( tracking shipment ) involved + costs for new PSU.
How much is a new atx power supply £20 a cheap one. His hourly wage must be £30 at least.@@darkdepth1991
This is a Learning/teaching channel. He has power supplies coming out of his ears. He even bought a box of 15 psus a while ago and that's not including the ones he gets out of the car booty pcs. If it wasn't for the teaching aspect, he probably would have had this fixed in 5 mins
Bloody marvellous, would have been heading to the bin with me.
33:00 -- In situations such as this
Tweezer type probes become useful
Of course - when one is proficient with
chopsticks - handling two multi-meter
probes with one hand is effortless.
so - chop-chop - purchase some tweezer
type probes - or practice Chop-stick
gymnastics at the one hung lo Chinese eatery
@ 52:52 You are just clicking an advert lol Yeahhhh
Can you please explain what is with the bulb? Why and how installed? Thank you very much.
Hello Richard.
Thank you again for doing this effort for us.
I have a question, I've been thinking about for a time. How does the ESD-equipment work, more specifically the ESD-mat. I've seen you put a piece of paper or a catalouge between the PCB and the mat. Does the insulation of paper not interfere with the electrostatic discharge?
Very nice Video! I had an Xsilence PSU fail on me also. It had a shorted cap on the 12V line and also burned some SOT 23 Transistors and Mosfets!
There is more of that conductive glue in other locations on the PCB. Would it be worth removing it all to prevent more problems in the future?
From what I noticed the rest of the glue is on the low voltage sidfe of the PSU where it is very unlikely to cause any problems. Of course there is no harm removing all of it if it makes you feel better about the repair
Well done Rich, 10/10 for perseverence.
I must say though, I am always surprised that you seldom, if ever, seem to use clip leads or mini grabbers. Is there a particular reason for that? Other than you just don't have any!!🤣
Strangely enough I don't know the answer to this, as I have loads of those mini grabbers etc 🥴
There are too many 8050 parts! I ran into this issue reverse engineering a piezo buzzer driver in a hand-crank "survival" torch and the pin-out did not make sense with the circuit.
SS8050(1.5A/25VCE/1W), S8050(.7A/20VCE/1W), and C8050(1.5A/25VCE/1W) are all NPN/EBC.
8050SS(1.5A/25VCE/1W) and 2SC8050/SC8050(.8A,25VCE,.8W) NPN/ECB.
The Chinese markings are often vague or inaccurate as well.
Exactly this! One of the best things anyone could learn from this video is to check your replacement parts no matter where you bought them from!
I've kept my broken 1 aside I have a tinker with it now n then still not fixed it yet lol
What size resistor do you use for discharging caps?
Heya, it could have bin the 1kV cap arkt some how with the glue. and because of this ark other components could get destroy
my atx psu shows overvoltage problem, i checked 12 volt rail shows 15 volt and 5 volt rail shows 6 volt.
can you help me with this issue, what componnents caused this issue? thanks
logically speaking if the psu is off how can the bulb flicker like this? because the switching will be off right or wrong? or you were actually shorting the power on line to the ground already because you did not show the output connector?
It seems on this PSU that the PFC controller is running all the time once power is applied, and I know from experience that active PFC does this with the light bulb limiter. The fact the PSU ran OK once I fixed the 5V STB kinda confirms this is the case
One meter probe, on one finger is ok, but don't put the meter probes both on your fingers! old folks, have said the small voltage will kill you???
Degraded glue which can become conductive and also corrode components (especially component leads), that't one of the biggest sources of your problems. Seen quite a number of instances where there is degraded glue present on the PCB on your repair videos. Next time do beware of them.
Dude, you buying transistors on Ebay again?
I think the glue got conductive. When it turns that brown it's gone to shite. It's a common failure. I half think manufacturers do it on purpose? Just some built in planned obsolescence.
I wonder, could the "bang" be caused by that terrible "electronic glue" on the pcb? It often breaks down and gets conductive (ask me!) I saw some dark spots in it in the area
I commented just before you found the open resistors and the glue..
@@greengrayradio1394 No problem, that just shows you think faster than me 😀
isn't 11.5v on the 12V a bit on the low side of acceptable? is it just the chinese tester reading wrong, cause it shows 12.1 on the other 12V and I'm assuming it's the same line anyway
No, it's within the published specifications for ATX power supplies
www.oreilly.com/library/view/pc-hardware-in/059600513X/ch26s02s01.html
Bear in mind also that nothing in a PC actually runs at 12 volts, everything works at much lower voltages and the VRM or voltage regulators that generate these low voltages don't care much about a bit of difference on Vin, so +12V give or take is fine. Another factor is that the regulation on an ATX PSU monitors the 3.3V rail and with a low current load on 3.3V, as is the case with my ATX analyser, it is quite likely +12V would read a bit lower than in real life use anyway
That reminds me to disconnect the white wire in my analyzer as the Chinese muppets wired this to ground, causing a headache if you actually have a PSU with the white wire present.
That glue appeared to serve no purpose other than limiting the life span of the PSU?
Vibration causes solder to fragment, then you have a bad joint or cold joint.
Do you have verified the optocuplor????
He did at 30:22 !
I was wondering why you seem to have a few bent probes in the past now I know, you are using them as picks to get the glue off. Maybe get some better tools for that? Just saying ... 🙂
Yeah you are correct I was being lazy there 😅
Hello
Save money don't go to the local chinese, you can get tweezer probes for your multimeter !
i think just lucky hahaha
PSUs are very cheap and simple constructed. everyone can fix it
So you wait for the caps to discharge everytime? 😂 no wonder your videos are so long
Sometimes I use the power resistor that I also showed and sometimes I just take it easy and think about the job while the caps discharge 😉
These Xilence PSUs are junk. Sad part is that they aren't even too cheap. Not expensive but usually at same cost you can buy something somewhat decent. One with at least correct rating on sticker and capable of delivering 12V with ripple inside ATX specs.
Hy Richard, good repair.
30:22 We now you need womens help , no shame on you 🤪🥳🤣
Ähm at 17:04 ., what type of component is low battery?🤔🤔
That's the 12V alkaline battery right there on the analyzer itself. Pricey little things sometimes.
@@khx73 wouldn't need the analyzer 230 volts🤔🤔
It's a semiconductor component analyzer, it only needs low voltage to test the NP junctions and determine what the component is. It does not run high voltage tests. @@Lightrunner.
@@khx73 it was a joking question, sorry
Um yeah, hard to communicate subtle humor on text @@Lightrunner.
Keep up the great work, learned allot from part 1 and 2 🦾