As one of the "1%" who watched this all the way, I believe you need to give yourself more credit, Seth. This video is a must-have for all new or inexperienced builders. It certainly gave me a better understanding of my FS-i6 setup.
This is the kind of video I want from this channel. Anything to get people into the sport and then show them how easy it is. Maybe make the tutorials into a numbered series so you don't have to repeat yourself in each tutorial because radio programming is the last thing you do on a bot.
Thank you! I haven't numbered the tutorials for a few reasons. It's one of the dumb RUclips algorithm things that people are less likely to click on a 'part 2' if they haven't seen part 1. Also people come into robot combat from a lot of other hobbies - many have RC cars or FPV bulling experience so the electronics and radio stuff are easy much mechanical construction and CAD are hard. Some come from a mechanical background and it's the opposite.
Really informative video (and I watched to the end) Especially the parts how to setup limits and curves will certainly help trying to control the smaller weight classes since they are just so fast. For newer drivers you can see a lot of bots over turn a lot and with good exponential curves you can trim that down a lot and make it both able to turn smoothly and fast while with linear inputs you maybe have a tiny tiny region on the stick where you can control it smoothly. Excellent video and thank you for the monumental amount of effort it must have required to produce an almost 43 minute video explaining everything for two different transmitter types!
Thank you for having so many great videos up on how to get into this awesome sport/hobby. I’m learning a lot before stepping into this hoping to have my first build done next month! So these are all so helpful to learn
Great video which covered most of the things for the 2 remotes I have FS-I6 & Zorro, but unfortunately several of the things that would have been helpful for the Zorro were sped through and I had to go figure out myself through trial and error. Although the video was long, its easy enough for the watcher to fast forward through the pieces they dont want and since you taped them anyways, they should have been made available. I do have the video on my list to watch again now that I understand the devices better after the first watch.
Thank you for the feedback. This video was not just long to watch but it took hours to film and I ended up cutting out a lot of bad takes and confusing sections. I'm also not an expert, I just tried to go over the stuff I do often and know well. There are a million things you can do on the mixing page for instance and covering it all could take hours.
I have a playlist for videos that are related or indirectly related to combat robotics and I didn't even watch the video yet and automatically added this video. Half the playlist is your videos and team bns videos. Just cuz robotics and team bns doing gods work with these videos and helping out the technically illiterate newbies into serious competitors.
The one thing that I see a lot robot drivers having trouble with is that their differential steering is so fast that they cannot control the direction of their robot. Over steering to the point of feeding a tire into your opponent’s weapon is normally less than desirable.
Thank you great video, do you know how to invert controls on the fs i6(reciever-fs i6b) without diconstructing the transmiter or other complicated stuff?
What is the difference between a brushed and brushless speed controller? Does a brushless esc only work with a brushless motor? Or does a brushed motor only worked with a brushed esc? What’s the difference?
Brushed motors have 2 wires and are simpler to control, brushless have 3 wires and need a complex controller to work. Brushed ESCs will not work for brushless motors, and Brushless ESCs usually won't work for brushed motors although some have a firmware that let's them control both (since a speed controller that can control a 3 wire motor has the hardware needed for 2 wire)
Hey Seth, this is really informational, and will come in handy in the upcoming days of setting up my SSP (it's all built, and hand tightened, just need some Loctite Blue for the wheel set screws and everything should be hunky dory there), and with some spare xt30's just in case haha. Now, I have a question about all this. I've got the Turnigy i6 (which is the same as the FSi6, but what would be your right side stick for movement is on the left hand side instead.), and whilst trying to mix the controls, I noticed that what should be forward is actually turning the robot, rather than going forward, and turning the robot is actually causing it to go forward. I've tried to mix it on the control but it doesn't seem to be enjoying it, so my question is would it be safe to put what would be on the first channel on the ESC to the motherboard into the second channel of the MOBO 2.2, and the singular wire into the first channel in order to get the needed results? Or would this be a bad idea and just blow up the ESC?
I'm new to your channel and I just subscribed. I recently picked up this transmitter and receiver and I've learned more last night about how to configure it for my Heng Long tank then I ever have. The instructions from this company fly sky are terrible and I wanted to ask where on the receiver are you supposed to plug in that single yellow connector? I also think I'll try out some of your electronics projects here.
Thanks for the sub! I don't have familiarity with that particular RC vehicle so idk what yellow wire you are referring to. It's likely a signal wire for one of the receiver channels but you might need to consult the manual for that product to decide which.
I highly doubt that is possible. Bluetooth is not the same as what these radios use. I have seen someone use a custom ESP32 based receiver module with a Playstation controller and even a steam deck but that's a hell of a lot bigger and more complicated (writing your own code from scratch Vs plug and play)
You might want to look at some of my design overview videos for Division. But yes they are 1/4" thick 7075. I can't really make design recommendations for everyone but you should take a look at the NHRL discord and plenty of people there can help. wiki.nhrl.io/wiki/index.php/NHRL_Discord
Could have saved myself a bunch of time if I had found this video earlier! But I still have a problem... I have the same setup with the FS and ch1/ch2. It all works great except at low speed it turns the wrong way when moving forward until I turn hard, then it goes the right way. There seems to be some conflict or mixup with blending the 2 channel signals? It this just bad programming in the esc? I'm using a 4ch FS2A receiver. None of the FS settings seem to affect this.
I may be confused, but that would move it more in one direction right? this happens in both directions. When I dial down ch1 enough, I can almost control the steering backwards equally in both directions while going forward until I speed up, then it spins back in the correct direction. If I just go forward, backwards, left or right, it works exactly as it should. but moving the stick diagonally is very unpredictable.
Trying to troubleshoot over text can be difficult, please email team@justcuzrobotics.com with a video of the problem, showing your controller inputs and resulting robot motion. I should be able to help better that way. Be sure to include your order number
Seth, Sometimes you see bots gyro or lift as they turn - it seems like super efficient way of moving. Is this a result of how you setup the remote, how powerful the bot is, or is this a side effect of the gyro of the weapon.
It's pretty much Gyro and physics. Large enough angular momentum in the weapon plus large enough turn rate plus narrow enough wheel base. Not much to do with the radio controls besides allowing fast turning.
The physics phenomenon is called "precession", usually prefixed by "gyroscopic" or "torque-induced". It's the same mechanism that allows a spinning top to stay upright while spinning and the sides of the bot lifting is caused by the rotational inertia of the (vertical) weapon being changed by the rotation of a bot. The more weapon inertia or the faster the rotation of the bot, the more it will try to lift up one of the sides. You can configure your transmitter to try and reduce this effect by for example limiting the speed of the weapon while turning, but there is nothing you can configure in your transmitter to make it gyrodance more aside from upgrading the motor for drive or weapon. Also depends what you call "efficient". There is no free energy so it has to come from somewhere, with gyroing bots it's converting a bit of angular momentum of the weapon into angular rotation of the entire bot, so while gyrodancing looks nice you're actually making your weapon motor work harder to keep the weapon up to speed. Gyrowalkers (bots that move only by this mechanism, think of Rickety Cricket/Dumpster Baby in the lower weight classes, Wrecks in Battlebots) are effective because they only have to dedicate weight to the main weapon motor and a smaller servo motor to tilt the body or weapon to cause the gyro, also get a weight bonus in most smaller competitions for unconventional drive.
Now does 1% who make it to the end count for people who skipped the Zorro section? (Nothing against it, really interesting video already, more so just got an FS-i6 and not looking to upgrade before even using this). But don't beat yourself up over this kind of video being "boring", really important tutorials that are very important for anyone trying to get into bot building, you can't get those big flashy YT friendly fights if you don't learn this.
I really wanted to see the servo end points being set on the zorro. It doesn't work as it did on my Taranis with OpenTX... raising/lowering the endpoints doesnt do anything on the zorro. ... But you fast forwarded the whole thing and didn't show anything. 🫤
Sorry about that! This video was already getting very long. You can do that from the Outputs tab on the Zorro for channel 3. Just set the min and max for the channel 3 output to adjust the servo end points.
@JustCuzRobotics thanks. I tried that and it didn't move the servo. I figured I must have missed something or there's some other setting somewhere. I used the sub trim to move it a little, but it doesn't move anywhere near what it used to in opentx... and this is a servo I've used many times before. Must be missing something.
![Billet Metal Chassis - Good for 3lb Combat Robots? [Subtraction V2, March NHRL Event Recap]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_YVKZTy4j9U/mqdefault.jpg)
As one of the "1%" who watched this all the way, I believe you need to give yourself more credit, Seth. This video is a must-have for all new or inexperienced builders. It certainly gave me a better understanding of my FS-i6 setup.
Thank you!
This is the kind of video I want from this channel. Anything to get people into the sport and then show them how easy it is. Maybe make the tutorials into a numbered series so you don't have to repeat yourself in each tutorial because radio programming is the last thing you do on a bot.
Thank you!
I haven't numbered the tutorials for a few reasons. It's one of the dumb RUclips algorithm things that people are less likely to click on a 'part 2' if they haven't seen part 1. Also people come into robot combat from a lot of other hobbies - many have RC cars or FPV bulling experience so the electronics and radio stuff are easy much mechanical construction and CAD are hard. Some come from a mechanical background and it's the opposite.
I made it all the way through. I am in the process of trying to get my remote talking to my robot, so perfect timing.
Give this man a medal
Really informative video (and I watched to the end)
Especially the parts how to setup limits and curves will certainly help trying to control the smaller weight classes since they are just so fast. For newer drivers you can see a lot of bots over turn a lot and with good exponential curves you can trim that down a lot and make it both able to turn smoothly and fast while with linear inputs you maybe have a tiny tiny region on the stick where you can control it smoothly.
Excellent video and thank you for the monumental amount of effort it must have required to produce an almost 43 minute video explaining everything for two different transmitter types!
Thank you for having so many great videos up on how to get into this awesome sport/hobby. I’m learning a lot before stepping into this hoping to have my first build done next month! So these are all so helpful to learn
Happy to help!
I made it through the end. I do on all of your videos but rarely comment. I appreciate your knowledge. Thank you
Thank you I was look for a video like this for a long time thank you
Great video which covered most of the things for the 2 remotes I have FS-I6 & Zorro, but unfortunately several of the things that would have been helpful for the Zorro were sped through and I had to go figure out myself through trial and error. Although the video was long, its easy enough for the watcher to fast forward through the pieces they dont want and since you taped them anyways, they should have been made available. I do have the video on my list to watch again now that I understand the devices better after the first watch.
Thank you for the feedback. This video was not just long to watch but it took hours to film and I ended up cutting out a lot of bad takes and confusing sections. I'm also not an expert, I just tried to go over the stuff I do often and know well. There are a million things you can do on the mixing page for instance and covering it all could take hours.
I have a playlist for videos that are related or indirectly related to combat robotics and I didn't even watch the video yet and automatically added this video. Half the playlist is your videos and team bns videos. Just cuz robotics and team bns doing gods work with these videos and helping out the technically illiterate newbies into serious competitors.
The one thing that I see a lot robot drivers having trouble with is that their differential steering is so fast that they cannot control the direction of their robot. Over steering to the point of feeding a tire into your opponent’s weapon is normally less than desirable.
Very true. Lower steering end points, expo,or simply practice make a difference.
Learned a ton now I'm ready for my Zorro to show up
I watch these videos to Learn want to know what to do for Combat Robotics so this is helpful
Great video. Thanks dude
Thank you great video, do you know how to invert controls on the fs i6(reciever-fs i6b) without diconstructing the transmiter or other complicated stuff?
What is the difference between a brushed and brushless speed controller? Does a brushless esc only work with a brushless motor? Or does a brushed motor only worked with a brushed esc? What’s the difference?
Brushed motors have 2 wires and are simpler to control, brushless have 3 wires and need a complex controller to work. Brushed ESCs will not work for brushless motors, and Brushless ESCs usually won't work for brushed motors although some have a firmware that let's them control both (since a speed controller that can control a 3 wire motor has the hardware needed for 2 wire)
@@JustCuzRobotics do you know if the motors in the fingertech viper kit are brushed or brushless?
The Viper kit motors are brushed for sure. You can tell from the fact they have just 2 wires
Hey Seth, this is really informational, and will come in handy in the upcoming days of setting up my SSP (it's all built, and hand tightened, just need some Loctite Blue for the wheel set screws and everything should be hunky dory there), and with some spare xt30's just in case haha.
Now, I have a question about all this. I've got the Turnigy i6 (which is the same as the FSi6, but what would be your right side stick for movement is on the left hand side instead.), and whilst trying to mix the controls, I noticed that what should be forward is actually turning the robot, rather than going forward, and turning the robot is actually causing it to go forward.
I've tried to mix it on the control but it doesn't seem to be enjoying it, so my question is would it be safe to put what would be on the first channel on the ESC to the motherboard into the second channel of the MOBO 2.2, and the singular wire into the first channel in order to get the needed results? Or would this be a bad idea and just blow up the ESC?
Yes switching it to the yellow wire is channel 1 and white wire is Channel 2 should fix it
If only that hobby was masive enough to have events and groups on my country.
I'm new to your channel and I just subscribed. I recently picked up this transmitter and receiver and I've learned more last night about how to configure it for my Heng Long tank then I ever have. The instructions from this company fly sky are terrible and I wanted to ask where on the receiver are you supposed to plug in that single yellow connector? I also think I'll try out some of your electronics projects here.
Thanks for the sub! I don't have familiarity with that particular RC vehicle so idk what yellow wire you are referring to. It's likely a signal wire for one of the receiver channels but you might need to consult the manual for that product to decide which.
@@JustCuzRobotics I think I resolved it and just wanted to say again much appreciate the video tutorial you posted here,. it really helped
Has anyone successfully paired a channel hopping 2.4ghz controller with an Xbox or PS4 controller???
I highly doubt that is possible. Bluetooth is not the same as what these radios use. I have seen someone use a custom ESP32 based receiver module with a Playstation controller and even a steam deck but that's a hell of a lot bigger and more complicated (writing your own code from scratch Vs plug and play)
Great job enjoyed the content.Make more
Thank you, I will
Are those 1/4 inch thick 7075 aluminium pillars on division, and how thick do you think I should make my vertical spinner's pillars with that metal?
You might want to look at some of my design overview videos for Division. But yes they are 1/4" thick 7075. I can't really make design recommendations for everyone but you should take a look at the NHRL discord and plenty of people there can help. wiki.nhrl.io/wiki/index.php/NHRL_Discord
Could have saved myself a bunch of time if I had found this video earlier! But I still have a problem... I have the same setup with the FS and ch1/ch2. It all works great except at low speed it turns the wrong way when moving forward until I turn hard, then it goes the right way. There seems to be some conflict or mixup with blending the 2 channel signals? It this just bad programming in the esc? I'm using a 4ch FS2A receiver. None of the FS settings seem to affect this.
Oh, and a Dual Way Bidirectional brushed 5A ESC
Sounds like you need to adjust your radio trim
I may be confused, but that would move it more in one direction right? this happens in both directions. When I dial down ch1 enough, I can almost control the steering backwards equally in both directions while going forward until I speed up, then it spins back in the correct direction. If I just go forward, backwards, left or right, it works exactly as it should. but moving the stick diagonally is very unpredictable.
Trying to troubleshoot over text can be difficult, please email team@justcuzrobotics.com with a video of the problem, showing your controller inputs and resulting robot motion. I should be able to help better that way. Be sure to include your order number
Seth, Sometimes you see bots gyro or lift as they turn - it seems like super efficient way of moving. Is this a result of how you setup the remote, how powerful the bot is, or is this a side effect of the gyro of the weapon.
It's pretty much Gyro and physics. Large enough angular momentum in the weapon plus large enough turn rate plus narrow enough wheel base. Not much to do with the radio controls besides allowing fast turning.
The physics phenomenon is called "precession", usually prefixed by "gyroscopic" or "torque-induced". It's the same mechanism that allows a spinning top to stay upright while spinning and the sides of the bot lifting is caused by the rotational inertia of the (vertical) weapon being changed by the rotation of a bot. The more weapon inertia or the faster the rotation of the bot, the more it will try to lift up one of the sides. You can configure your transmitter to try and reduce this effect by for example limiting the speed of the weapon while turning, but there is nothing you can configure in your transmitter to make it gyrodance more aside from upgrading the motor for drive or weapon.
Also depends what you call "efficient". There is no free energy so it has to come from somewhere, with gyroing bots it's converting a bit of angular momentum of the weapon into angular rotation of the entire bot, so while gyrodancing looks nice you're actually making your weapon motor work harder to keep the weapon up to speed.
Gyrowalkers (bots that move only by this mechanism, think of Rickety Cricket/Dumpster Baby in the lower weight classes, Wrecks in Battlebots) are effective because they only have to dedicate weight to the main weapon motor and a smaller servo motor to tilt the body or weapon to cause the gyro, also get a weight bonus in most smaller competitions for unconventional drive.
just a idea but would you supply on your shop free models of your components so we can design robots?
I already supply 3D models for free of almost all my components I sell. Just look at each store listing and there usually is a link to the model.
@@JustCuzRobotics fantastic 🤩
Now does 1% who make it to the end count for people who skipped the Zorro section? (Nothing against it, really interesting video already, more so just got an FS-i6 and not looking to upgrade before even using this). But don't beat yourself up over this kind of video being "boring", really important tutorials that are very important for anyone trying to get into bot building, you can't get those big flashy YT friendly fights if you don't learn this.
1%
"Tarakan" is "cockroach" in Russian Oo. Probably it should be pronounced "Tah-rah-kah-n"
fIrST CoMMeNt!111
YOU LUCKY
You wasted it
I really wanted to see the servo end points being set on the zorro. It doesn't work as it did on my Taranis with OpenTX... raising/lowering the endpoints doesnt do anything on the zorro. ... But you fast forwarded the whole thing and didn't show anything. 🫤
Sorry about that! This video was already getting very long. You can do that from the Outputs tab on the Zorro for channel 3. Just set the min and max for the channel 3 output to adjust the servo end points.
@JustCuzRobotics thanks. I tried that and it didn't move the servo. I figured I must have missed something or there's some other setting somewhere. I used the sub trim to move it a little, but it doesn't move anywhere near what it used to in opentx... and this is a servo I've used many times before. Must be missing something.