Just to clear something up about the 150C diode at 3:30 I was using a 5V noctua fan instead of a 12V noctua fan at first, so it was overloaded to 480%. After installing the correct 12v fan, it is now running at 36 C.
if you have pwm control, you can set the max duty cycle to 50% and add a capacitor in parallel to the fan to get 12V instead of using a zener which will get toasty.
Great work! I'm definitely doing this to my Two Trees Sapphire Plus. It's pretty quiet except for the fans. Right now I'm working on my filament dry storage. Fan upgrades are next.
I am keeping the hotend fan (I cut the stl in mesh mixer and kept only the heatbreak fan). I will be using a gelid fan instead of the noctua... they are 50% cheaper. I will receive it tomorrow, so I will check how it performs...
Thanks for the work you put into this. I can now print in peace! One thing I discovered was that on my noctua fans (A4x20 and A4x10) the red wire is +12V, not yellow as mentioned. I passed on making a separate cable so maybe thats why.
Cutoff Wheels are a bit tough to cut curves with, but yeah it could be done. Speaking of better tools for the job, I just tried out a 400 watt laser today that would have cut right through this in about 10 seconds. I'll be going back for seconds and making a video about it!
I subscribe to A LOT of channels... Nathan, you are so damn awesome, you're by faaar my favorite. You add just the right amount of humor when I'm not expecting it. Lol
First channel that immediately has been "Patreon"-ed by me. Keep up the good Ender3 S1 (short ESI) content, and developing "that fann" of yours. :D PS.: Please, never be normal.... thnks
@@NathanBuildsRobots I just try to keep up with you, ordering all the necessary equipment to be your gunnie pig guy relating to ESIs :D I will use ASA to print them, 'cause of its UV resistance. The first one is already printed as a tryout from PLA, one not the stl would be nice if orinted in the printing position. My dream is to make a 12cm Noctua into a cooler in the head (what a nonsense, but fun idea), and also thinking about making a cooling solution, where there is a big cooler is relatively far away from the head, which will be cooled thru a tube. I dont know if pressure and frictions are allowing it, but i like the idea of using something powerful and deliver its stream into the tiny head. A Tube-fun on RUclips .... See? :D Man i like your style... I hope/wish you will have the same rising viewcount as 'I did a thing' has since i get to know him. ;)
ok this intro is awesome; to add, this is all more than I am able to do to a printer, but it's really cool to see. I am pretty keen on the Ender S1 and it might be my 2nd printer.. I am still learning on my Ender 3 that we just got fully set up
Thanks! I wish manufacturers would do more with silent fans. I like a quiet machine. It's doubly important for me because it makes it easier to film and record audio when the fans aren't so loud
Noctua are expensive, the stock fans powered at 12-15v are sufficient. I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks. I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow. On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.
Great video! I might think of this when I upgrade from my old ender 3 v2 to a S1, but although your explaination ist grear, it's a whole bunch of work. Especially cutting of the buttom seems like a huge step for me. But a very great video, I loved the beginning :D
Apart from the big resonance of the metal body and the Y motor, it is a good machine. The big fan Noctua eliminates no noise.. But after some printing problems, I discovered a difference of 1mm in horizontal on the X axis. So it is to be monitored and corrected for new users. On your sprite cooling fixture, the fan for the Hot-End looks the same as the standard one? The loudest is the small 30 mm near the CR-Touch
All fans are turned on for those tests. The 100% setting is louder than stock, but it is moving about 5-10x more air. A fair comparison in terms of equivalent part cooling performance is stock vs 10% on new fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots is the psu fan also 12v on an s1? In that case, Aerocool makes a 12v 200mm fan with 18dBa noise level. If I wasn't receiving a 60mm and 40mm today for psu and motherboard, I would have bought that instead, after seeing your video...
maybe you could show a picture of the sprite mother board for the wiring? I don't get how you get 3 fans at the end (if you keep the original one on the left side
Nice… the giant fan looks awesome and does a great job of cooling things with virtually no noise. Best thing is when you flip your printer on and second guess if you forgot to plug it in or broke it because you don’t hear a thing!
@@NathanBuildsRobots My printer has an annoying *BEEEEEEP* Every time you turn it on. I'm so OCD about the noise that I got some thick foam double sided tape and covered the little black speaker on the board haha.
for the buck converter is there somewhere you can have me look for a better idea on how to get it done. i get that you install it right off the psu just curious how. i have not popped mine open yet so haven't a clue. parts are in the mail because jesus is that psu fan driving me crazy.
I've been using a 40x20 12V noctua for hotend cooling and a 120mm beQuiet (undervolted to 5V) in a custom electronics case and have had zero problems since I've installed them; the coldend has pretty much the same temp as stock (measured by hand) and the raspberry pi and motherboard run at around 35 celsius during prints (measured by klipper firmware). Should get to replacing the stock blower sometime, but procrastination is a strict mistress xD I've heard the 40x10 noctua is a bit underpowered, cooling-wise, though I haven't verified that claim myself; I just bought the 40x20 since the only good reason for the 10mm thin one is that it's a drop-in replacement for the stock mount (size-wise; you still have to regulate the voltage). Love the detailed walkthrough, though I personally would recommend using a second DC-DC buck converter instead of the zener. Not that it doesn't work - quite evidently it does - but I just don't like the thought of a passive component just toasting away in a cable somewhere. Again, just a personal recommendation and not a "don't do that" :)
I'm a bit confused here. You replaced the bottom motherboard fan and power supply fan with 1 big fan situated in the center at the bottom? I mean that would explain why the temperature was higher on the motherboard because you're no longer blowing air directly on top of it. But what Im confused about the most here is the actual reduction in sound for all this work? Judging by your graph, it looks like this new setup is even louder than the stock fans at 100%. Your chart doesnt show fan speed % for stock fans, so I assume that those bars are indicating the stock fans at 100%? How loud is the printer when stock fans are at 30% vs the new fans?
Good questions, unfortunately I can't answer with real data since my printer is already modified, but I can answer with how I "feel" about it. With the part cooling fan off using the old setup, it was only 2-3 dB quieter since the rest of the fans are quite loud. With the new fan at 100% it is providing about 4x more part cooling power than the stock setup, so while it is louder, it is also providing better cooling and print quality. With the fan set to ~20% I can't hear it at all and the part cooling is as good or better than the stock setup at 100%. Plus now I have the option to crank up the fans to get really good 75 degree overhang performance if I need it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for clarifying that. So it seems this is more of cooling mod to achieve better preformance rather than a sound reducing/slitent mod. I'm just building an enclosure now for my s1 and planning out everything and was wondering if I should do this setup, but it was throwing a wrench in my design as it required extra bottom clearance for the big fan and that means a taller case and more plexiglass I would need. I think I'll skip the bottom upgrades, but may end up doing the extruder fan upgrade if I find heat being a problem down the line.
@@007craft I am also testing a version with a 40mm noctua fan as the cooling fan. I will release that model as a free download on my patreon/thingiverse on the 28th
Another great video! I think my ender 3 S1 is too precious to me to do a silent fan mod. I am quite the noob at modding and I don't really want to risk breaking it. But I still love the mod!
Somewhat of a recurring joke on my channel, that I'm more worried about my view count than your safety 😆 But really, staying safe is more important. So take your time and protect yourself!
You should at least not cover that zener diode so it can more effectively dissipate the heat. They should not be operating close to 100c Using zener diodes to stepdown is horribly inefficient as the heat generated=(12v)*current. both 40x10, and 40x20 fans are pulling 0.5A based on label, hence the zener diode needs to dissipate 0.6w of heat. It is like if you used a 24ohm resistor there. Buck converters are a much better option or wire fans in series.
So that footage was when i was using a 4020 noctua fan with 2 parallel 150W 1/4w resistors for an equivalent 75 ohms of resistance. It was overvolting the fan and the tiny resistors were not dissipating enough heat. 2nd try was with zener diode with leads trimmed short on a 4020 noctua fan, with 2 layers of shrink tube around it. Still was getting very hot amd melted the other wire it was next to. 3rd try is 12v zener diode with leads left long (they act like little heatsinks and spread the heat out) and running a 4010 fan which uses 1/2 the power, with only 1 layer of shrink tube around the diode, and a couple layers around the wire next to it as shown in my install. Also I tucked the extra wire & diode I to the empty spot where the old blower fan was, so it's being actively cooled at least a little bit by the 4010 fan. It's running at 36C now, which I'm pretty sure it's OK. What do you think about the motherboard temps? It's a bit hotter than stock but is it enough to worry about? I never knew that 1 or 2 watts could get something over 150C before this, but hey I learned something new!
OOOOOHHHH WAIT The 4020 fan I was using was a 5V version. Which explains why it was pushing so much air at 12v! It was outperforming the stock fan and was just about as loud! Thanks for bringing this up, would not have caught that if I didn't take another look at my fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh, that more reassuring, I thought you were running it with the diode above 100c. Theoretically, infinite temps can be achieved as long as the input power exceeds power dissipated, hence I was telling you to leave out the insulation around the diode. Your Mobo temp is perfectly reasonable. Most semiconductor run around 40-80 without any issues. Higher temps can significantly decrease life probably due to a combination of increasing electromigration and causing thermal migration of dopants. Also surprised that the 5v fan didn't get fried at 12v. Looks like they are well built. Love your videos, keep up the good work!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Now I am a big confused, in the video you had the 12v zener measured 150C, was that heat due to the fact you put a 5V fan there (V 0,25W)? Because both the Noctua 10 and 20mm are having the same Watt, 0,6W at 0,05A. If I install as you did in the video but using the 12V (Noctua 40x20mm), will the heat be under control on the zener?
Great overview of what goes into this modification! I just installed a Sprite Pro kit on my V2 so I'm not sure if the same fans will work, but I want to figure out something eventually cause the Sprite hotend is actually louder than the V2 one.
I'm not sure, but it seems like they carried over some of the design flaws from the Ender 3, so it wouldn't surprise me. The motherboard fan is constantly on unless you unplug the machine, which is really annoying to me.
These get better and better each time. I just put one of these bad boys on my Aquila and a SKR Mini 3.0. Too bad nothing happened when I turned it on…not sure what I did wrong yet.
A multimeter is great for checking to see if your wires are done correctly, if the fan is seeing 12v it will turn on! Just remember , positive to yellow, negative to black.
Thanks. I just got a multimeter and have yet to try it out. I don’t think the fan is the issue. They don’t boot up with the board on the 3.0. The stock board fried when the hot end hit the bed. So both the fan and the board are new. This should be a drop in for the Aquila X2 but nothing powered up. I probably did something wrong. But hey I didn’t see sparks or smoke, so any crash you can walk away from right?
@@NathanBuildsRobots i did remix you part with another one, so i got a dual duct for a single 5015 and a 4020 fan both fans are 24 volts so no needs for doing voltage conversions and the sunon fan is really silent and cheap while blowing more air than the expensive noctua ones. look for the mf40202v2-1000u-a99 there is also 1 variant thats a little better on airflow but also little louder
@@NathanBuildsRobots already excited about what you will do with them. by the way, 3s1 pro auto level/mesh is somehow bugged if you have problems just reset the printer and use manual level 🥲. wasted hours trying to figure out whats wrong 😂 butt seems some firmware bug and no newer fw available till now
The sound that my S1 pro makes is crazy. Just the fans. I need to replace them. I would like to see another video for the pro version, maybe more updated with links to buy the thinks we need. That would be awsome.
The fan replacement process should be very similar for the Pro, but I may do another episode on S1 Pro fan replacement. It won't be out until next month, but it should be interesting. At higher speeds the Y axis on my Pro is loud compared to the normal S1, almost to the point where the fan noise doesnt matter.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for your work! I will wait, and I will share the video in this facebook group that are s1/s1 pro owners only. This would be very helpful. (P.S. if possible, try with less crazy thing, cutting the bottom so mutch and cutting original cables, are very scary things to see)
I had a HeroMe set up on my E3P and all Noctua except part cooling which used 2 5015s. I just got a sprite, and it is LOUD! But, I don't know how I feel about modding the Sprite yet... I really need to build another machine. Like the eyeballs!
Have you let prints run for a long time using this setup? I ask because I have a similar setup (slightly different design) using 2x 4020 Sunon Maglev axial fans (One for hotend and one for part cooling), and heat creep inevitably sets in for any print longer than 60 mins in duration. Upon further reading Noctua NF-A4X10 has a lower CFM than the Sunon fan. However, the Noctua provides higher static pressure. Can you advise please? Great video as always Nathan.
I didn't have any issues. The way I designed this it provides much more cooling than some others I have looked at. The fan recirculates air against the parts its up against, in addition to pushing air through the heatsink. I've since swapped the hotend over to using an entirely different printhead (Microswiss NG)
I have six ender 3 pro, and they have all been running with blocked power supply fans since day 1 to remove the incredibly loud noise. I yanked a zip tie into the fan to stop it spinning. Problem solved.
Fantastic video, thank you very much! Why don't you put one (or two) buck converter(s) from 24v to 12v between the motherboard and the wire into the case?
I figured the always on approach is more failsafe than running it through the motherboard. There might be cases where the PSU is on and drawing lots of power, but the motherboard fan is off (like when heating up the bed at the start of a print).
The link on Thingiverse for the feet.. to buy the squash balls.. goes to an M2 screw set instead. Might need to update that. What size squash balls did you use?
Files and Pictures can be found here: www.patreon.com/posts/62155640 www.patreon.com/posts/62156070 The feet bolt on to the existing holes on the bottom of the machine, and 2 t-slot nuts
Assuming one was going for silent replacement rather than overkill super-cool on the PSU, off-hand, what are the fan dimensions for direct brown fan replacement?
I use mostly the same settings as I do with PLA. Differences are: Usually I do 70C bed, 240C hotend. Fan speed limit set to 50% also, I don't push the speed as much as I do with PLA
That was a shot while powering the 40x20 noctua. The 40x10 noctua is half the power so should run a bit cooler. Zener diodes drop the voltage by turning it into heat, so they get hot! 🔥
@@NathanBuildsRobots not sure how u were intending to make a partscoolingfan for noctua fans , but i was thinking: how about making the gap where the blower fan blows through bigger to be able to horizontally lay flat a noctua 40mm fan on there?
Hi Nom, I am operating more like a niche product development firm, where I offer high quality goods that are professionally assembled and tested. The proceeds go towards paying off development costs and funding more innovative products. I am in contact with distributors that may be able to offer discounts and local shipping rates once I enter full-rate production in December.
Hi Khoi, in my experience with Noctua fans, yellow is positive, black is ground. Blue/green are PWM wires. Other manufacturers assign yellow to PWM sometimes. Check out this article by Noctua: noctua.at/en/what-pin-configuration-do-noctua-products-use
The Noctua 4020 axial fans dont move a lot of air due to their low static pressure. A 4020 blower fan or 5015 blower fan would get you at least 75 degree overhangs. For reference, the stock fan is a 4010 blower fan
I am likely just going to replace each fan directly for the power supply and motherboard to start. I got a screencap of the motherboard fan (CHA6024RL-15B 24V 0.10A), but not the power supply fan. If you still have it kicking around, can you let me know what part it is? Thanks!
I haven't looked at my S1 in a while, been tied up getting a couple reviews made. But I will be looking at my S1 hopefully in a couple weeks and I can check.
The side cutters are not even made for that work you have used then, no wonder they breake, they are only for cutting electronics small wires and legs from resistors and similar work, use propper tools for the work and they hold much longer.
I consider the clippers I was using as "borderline acceptable" for the job, with safety glasses as necessary precaution. They are high-quality American made cutter that can probably make 1,000 - 10,000 cuts before breaking, which is better than most tools you get at a hardware store. The ones that come with the printer are too thin and would break in 10-100 cuts and are definitely a no-go.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I cut a thicker piece plastic with a side cutters I thought it could be done, but than the one blade snapped and was flying in my direction, it's always better to wear saefty glasse. 😬
@@WaschyNumber1 quality control is extremely important for tools subject to repetitive high stresses, like cutters. Simple mistakes in processing can result in a loss of 90% or more of its strength.
Hi Im wondering why your Motherboard and Stepper drivers has increased. You only opened the case and used bigger heat sinks and still uses the same fan right? Why does this lead to higher temperatures?
The old motherboard fan was placed directly above the motherboard, so it directed a lot of cooling air right onto it. With my current setup, the motherboard is just in the exhaust path of the big fan. So not as direct airflow. Also I noticed that some prints were done on PLA and some were done with PETG. PETG runs at higher temperatures, and draws more current, so everything on the motherboard gets hotter. These are not research grade publications with all variables controlled as well as they could be. Just my modding, ramblings, and personal anecdotal evidence.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah I didnt know that u got rid of the motherboard fan. I gonna keep it. Should I mind the maximum power of the power supply or can I connect without problems a new Power supply fan and a rasperry Pi?
Hey can anyone let me know if the stock blower fan behind the CR Touch is disabled and left in place or taken out? I'm about to make this modification but using the "4020 Axial" version with two Noctua fans and I'm a bit unsure about this specifically. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
I took it out. Should help with airflow. But the trick about my fan duct, and the reason it works better than most alternatives, is the fan actually produces a lot of cooling by stirring the air against the face its up against, not just the flow through the heatsink.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Awesome, Thank you for these designs, the video instructions and also getting back to me on this personally. I laughed my ass off at the Intro skit, once again thanks i appreciate all of this.
It and the 5015 will be publicly released on Feb 28th. If you want access to the closed beta we are testing it out on Patreon: www.patreon.com/posts/62368547
I would like to make a simple adapter like the one i made in this video and sell them on my website. That you can just plug 1 side into the fan port and the other side into the noctua fan. I really wish 3d printers would move to the ATX standard, like what computers use. That way there would be standardized pins and connectors, and easier upgrades.
As long as you don't have any issues with the printer clogging or underextruding, you're fine. I think all metal heatbreaks are better at insulating the hot and cold parts, so I can get away with using a smaller fan.
The diode seems quite inefficient, why not one of those poststamp size dc step down converters? Would be cool to see a design that fits a MP1584EN converter on the model
I added just the parts fan only version and I'm having issues with the fan not coming on/ not coming on full power because of the extruder motor. Did u have this problem? I'm using the fan from your parts list
Yes I had that issue. Which version are you using? The issue was documented in the 5015, but I posted a fixed version. Is it the 4020 blower? I might need to modify that one too, moving the fan upwards
For which part? If it's the printed part, you may need to reprint with smaller holes, or shrink them some other way. I have a toolkit with m2,m3,m4, and m5 books, and have always been able to find screws that fit for my 3d printer mods.
@@NathanBuildsRobots for the duct part for the fan my holes were too small for m3 and couldn't find any smaller had to heat up a screw and drill through it to make it bigger
Incredible, I did the editing with the A20FLX 12v noctua, at the start I thought that the ender did not work... Only for the head, but the zener diodes... Kind of freak me out. Can we mount a Noctua 40x40x10 to cool the heating block instead of the existing one? Thank you for your good advice.
I use 1.2mm of retraction and get good results. I go over how I set up my print profiles in Prusaslicer on my website: www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3s1
This is a brilliant cooler, it printed fantastically and it's such a nice addition. I followed the wiring guide for the noctua flx 40x10 and the zenner diode as shown but when connecting the fan and testing it i get nothing from it, could that be a bad zenner diode? I checked the pins when making the connector so the wires match polarity.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I looked up a pin diagram and yeah I was wired up to the speed sensor (yellow) and not the 12v (red) as i butchered the wires directly from the fan. Many thanks for your help, your videos, and your modderboard Nathan, mine just came today :) Cheers mate, keep on moddin!
nice video! going for it asap, do you keep the fan on the left side of the sprite? I don't understand where to plug 2 fan if you do keep the one on the left could you explain that to me? my English isn't that good so I might not have understood something in the video! good job anyway!
Yes, you can remove the left side fan. Also, if you join the discord you can ask about other fan mods for the hotend. There are some good options out there that aren’t by me
Just to clear something up about the 150C diode at 3:30
I was using a 5V noctua fan instead of a 12V noctua fan at first, so it was overloaded to 480%.
After installing the correct 12v fan, it is now running at 36 C.
Great to know this, the temp put me off doing it :P
Oww wow... Ok Zener diode here I come!
You probably should update the links above. Noctua as atleast two 200x30mm 12 volt fans. One a using a four pin connector and the other a three pin.
So its save to do i dont need a stepper ?
5w diode is crazy hot. Tried 2 in parallel same... link the diode parameters you used to get 36c
that intro deserves an Oscar 😂
Yeah. Oh hey, I just realized it's Yu! 👋
You are my hero man. I sincerely appreciate this fresh approach to the world of 3d printing!
I couldn’t say this better myself! He is what this community needs!!
The opening of this video had me in tears. New to the channel, genius work my friend.
if you have pwm control, you can set the max duty cycle to 50% and add a capacitor in parallel to the fan to get 12V instead of using a zener which will get toasty.
Good advice, but the cap needs to be big enough ;)
Finally, someone who cuts out the fan shields. Those create so much turbulence. Just removing them makes a HUGE difference.
Mate I had a good laugh at the gags in this vid. Looking to upgrade my S1 Pro, Cheers!
That intro was gold
Great work! I'm definitely doing this to my Two Trees Sapphire Plus. It's pretty quiet except for the fans. Right now I'm working on my filament dry storage. Fan upgrades are next.
I want a cube printer! All mine are bed slingers, except for a Voxelab Aries, which isn't very moddable
I am keeping the hotend fan (I cut the stl in mesh mixer and kept only the heatbreak fan). I will be using a gelid fan instead of the noctua... they are 50% cheaper. I will receive it tomorrow, so I will check how it performs...
Thanks for the work you put into this. I can now print in peace! One thing I discovered was that on my noctua fans (A4x20 and A4x10) the red wire is +12V, not yellow as mentioned. I passed on making a separate cable so maybe thats why.
That is very interesting! Maybe on the 3 on versions is different? I always get the 4 pin versions
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yea I looked it up on the noctua page and found this noctua.at/pub/media/wysiwyg/faqs/noctua_pin_configuration_12v_fans.png
For cutting the metal you could get diamond cutoff wheels from harbor freight to use with a dremel.
Cutoff Wheels are a bit tough to cut curves with, but yeah it could be done.
Speaking of better tools for the job, I just tried out a 400 watt laser today that would have cut right through this in about 10 seconds. I'll be going back for seconds and making a video about it!
I subscribe to A LOT of channels... Nathan, you are so damn awesome, you're by faaar my favorite. You add just the right amount of humor when I'm not expecting it. Lol
Thank you, thank you. Thank you very much.
5:50 LOL You're underrated. I just subscribed.
if i buy a 24v 40mm noctua fan for the extruder can i just wire it up to positive and negative? or do i still have to solder in a resistor
Yes correct
I'm going to try one of these fans on my OctoPI. I loved the intro!
Nice, there are 5V versions that you can plug directly in to the Raspberry pi either through USB or on the I/O pins
worthy of a sub, thanks for the info mate.
First channel that immediately has been "Patreon"-ed by me. Keep up the good Ender3 S1 (short ESI) content, and developing "that fann" of yours. :D
PS.: Please, never be normal.... thnks
Thanks Krulay! I will be making a couple different versions of that fan shroud, 40x20 noctua, 5015 blower, 120mm blower, am I missing anything?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I just try to keep up with you, ordering all the necessary equipment to be your gunnie pig guy relating to ESIs :D I will use ASA to print them, 'cause of its UV resistance. The first one is already printed as a tryout from PLA, one not the stl would be nice if orinted in the printing position.
My dream is to make a 12cm Noctua into a cooler in the head (what a nonsense, but fun idea), and also thinking about making a cooling solution, where there is a big cooler is relatively far away from the head, which will be cooled thru a tube. I dont know if pressure and frictions are allowing it, but i like the idea of using something powerful and deliver its stream into the tiny head. A Tube-fun on RUclips .... See? :D
Man i like your style... I hope/wish you will have the same rising viewcount as 'I did a thing' has since i get to know him. ;)
ok this intro is awesome; to add, this is all more than I am able to do to a printer, but it's really cool to see. I am pretty keen on the Ender S1 and it might be my 2nd printer.. I am still learning on my Ender 3 that we just got fully set up
Thanks! I wish manufacturers would do more with silent fans. I like a quiet machine. It's doubly important for me because it makes it easier to film and record audio when the fans aren't so loud
I’d love to see this setup with a 5015 blower fan, I literally have like 6 extra just laying around haha
I got you covered www.patreon.com/posts/62368547
Noctua are expensive, the stock fans powered at 12-15v are sufficient.
I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks.
I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow.
On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.
Great video! I might think of this when I upgrade from my old ender 3 v2 to a S1, but although your explaination ist grear, it's a whole bunch of work. Especially cutting of the buttom seems like a huge step for me. But a very great video, I loved the beginning :D
Some people just replace the stock fans with quieter versions that are the same size. That is the "smart" way to do it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Could you drop a link to some?
Apart from the big resonance of the metal body and the Y motor, it is a good machine. The big fan Noctua eliminates no noise..
But after some printing problems, I discovered a difference of 1mm in horizontal on the X axis. So it is to be monitored and corrected for new users.
On your sprite cooling fixture, the fan for the Hot-End looks the same as the standard one?
The loudest is the small 30 mm near the CR-Touch
And I was told putting 120mm fans on my E3v2 was an overkill. Great intro btw.
Just subbed, What IC was that - the hot one. So the viewers can opt to put a heatsink on there too. THanks
the one that was in the wire harness was super hot because I was using the wrong size fan
@@NathanBuildsRobots I mean that hot one on the mainboard
Agreed! Adding a bunch of brown to my Ender 3 was one of the best mods I've done to it.
I heard noctua is coming out with some 24v fans for the 3d printing market. It's gonna be sweet!
@@NathanBuildsRobots That would simplify things *so much*
Buck converters are cheap, but less wires are always welcome!
those blowtorch segments always crack me up haha
You have a unique styleee! Nice videeo! Saludos desde Chile. (sorry my english haha)
Yes, Machu Pichu!
Oh shit. Machu Pichu is in Peru!
Go Chileeee!! 🇨🇱 🌶 🇨🇱 🌶
Why is there smoke coming out of the hole near the main board at 6:08?
Edit: it might just be a bit of glue string.
Yeah exactly. Pretty sure it’s just some hot glue strands
I don't get the graph at 7:43
What does fans at 100% mean? Is that just the part cooling fan or the others too? Why is it noisier than stock?
All fans are turned on for those tests.
The 100% setting is louder than stock, but it is moving about 5-10x more air.
A fair comparison in terms of equivalent part cooling performance is stock vs 10% on new fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks
lol that intro, first time on your channel. insta sub
Absolutely love the intro lol
replacing fans is good idea. I would go for 24V (not 12V) as it is easier/faster to install thought a bit more expensive option.
Yeah, I have trouble finding high quality silent 24v fans. I wish Noctua would make some.
@@NathanBuildsRobots is the psu fan also 12v on an s1? In that case, Aerocool makes a 12v 200mm fan with 18dBa noise level. If I wasn't receiving a 60mm and 40mm today for psu and motherboard, I would have bought that instead, after seeing your video...
maybe you could show a picture of the sprite mother board for the wiring? I don't get how you get 3 fans at the end (if you keep the original one on the left side
A: that intro is cinematic art.
B: I did the notcua fan mod to my Fokoos Odin 5 and haven't looked back.
Nice… the giant fan looks awesome and does a great job of cooling things with virtually no noise. Best thing is when you flip your printer on and second guess if you forgot to plug it in or broke it because you don’t hear a thing!
@@NathanBuildsRobots My printer has an annoying *BEEEEEEP* Every time you turn it on. I'm so OCD about the noise that I got some thick foam double sided tape and covered the little black speaker on the board haha.
lmao that intro was great! thanks for the tutorial too
for the buck converter is there somewhere you can have me look for a better idea on how to get it done. i get that you install it right off the psu just curious how. i have not popped mine open yet so haven't a clue. parts are in the mail because jesus is that psu fan driving me crazy.
Thanks for such a good video.
Thanks for putting it in the basket!
I've been using a 40x20 12V noctua for hotend cooling and a 120mm beQuiet (undervolted to 5V) in a custom electronics case and have had zero problems since I've installed them; the coldend has pretty much the same temp as stock (measured by hand) and the raspberry pi and motherboard run at around 35 celsius during prints (measured by klipper firmware). Should get to replacing the stock blower sometime, but procrastination is a strict mistress xD
I've heard the 40x10 noctua is a bit underpowered, cooling-wise, though I haven't verified that claim myself; I just bought the 40x20 since the only good reason for the 10mm thin one is that it's a drop-in replacement for the stock mount (size-wise; you still have to regulate the voltage).
Love the detailed walkthrough, though I personally would recommend using a second DC-DC buck converter instead of the zener. Not that it doesn't work - quite evidently it does - but I just don't like the thought of a passive component just toasting away in a cable somewhere. Again, just a personal recommendation and not a "don't do that" :)
@LordHonklnc Where did you use the 120mm fan?
I'm a bit confused here. You replaced the bottom motherboard fan and power supply fan with 1 big fan situated in the center at the bottom? I mean that would explain why the temperature was higher on the motherboard because you're no longer blowing air directly on top of it.
But what Im confused about the most here is the actual reduction in sound for all this work? Judging by your graph, it looks like this new setup is even louder than the stock fans at 100%. Your chart doesnt show fan speed % for stock fans, so I assume that those bars are indicating the stock fans at 100%? How loud is the printer when stock fans are at 30% vs the new fans?
Good questions, unfortunately I can't answer with real data since my printer is already modified, but I can answer with how I "feel" about it.
With the part cooling fan off using the old setup, it was only 2-3 dB quieter since the rest of the fans are quite loud.
With the new fan at 100% it is providing about 4x more part cooling power than the stock setup, so while it is louder, it is also providing better cooling and print quality.
With the fan set to ~20% I can't hear it at all and the part cooling is as good or better than the stock setup at 100%. Plus now I have the option to crank up the fans to get really good 75 degree overhang performance if I need it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for clarifying that. So it seems this is more of cooling mod to achieve better preformance rather than a sound reducing/slitent mod. I'm just building an enclosure now for my s1 and planning out everything and was wondering if I should do this setup, but it was throwing a wrench in my design as it required extra bottom clearance for the big fan and that means a taller case and more plexiglass I would need. I think I'll skip the bottom upgrades, but may end up doing the extruder fan upgrade if I find heat being a problem down the line.
@@007craft I am also testing a version with a 40mm noctua fan as the cooling fan. I will release that model as a free download on my patreon/thingiverse on the 28th
Another great video! I think my ender 3 S1 is too precious to me to do a silent fan mod. I am quite the noob at modding and I don't really want to risk breaking it. But I still love the mod!
Is like to make those adapters and sell them. Do you think $15 for a 2 pack is reasonable?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would pay that.
@@NathanBuildsRobots very
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would be very interested
@@NathanBuildsRobots my ender 3 s1 has arrived few days ago and I wish you sell them.
you can get noctua redux fans which are grey and cheaper because they only come with the fan and a set of screws instead of all the adapters
I am a fan of this channel
But are you a big fan or a little fan? Both are welcome BTW
loving these mod videos!
Isnt that molex picoblade? Not JST
Isnt that creality is jst-sh 1mm?
Came for the noctua on the S1 mod. Stayed for that into.
Could you make the 5015 fan version ? :)
Yes
www.patreon.com/posts/62368547
"If you go blind, you wouldn't be able to watch my videos anymore" 😂😂😂😂
Great content man. Keep up the great work.
Somewhat of a recurring joke on my channel, that I'm more worried about my view count than your safety 😆
But really, staying safe is more important. So take your time and protect yourself!
this intro is just next level :D haha
You should at least not cover that zener diode so it can more effectively dissipate the heat. They should not be operating close to 100c
Using zener diodes to stepdown is horribly inefficient as the heat generated=(12v)*current. both 40x10, and 40x20 fans are pulling 0.5A based on label, hence the zener diode needs to dissipate 0.6w of heat. It is like if you used a 24ohm resistor there. Buck converters are a much better option or wire fans in series.
So that footage was when i was using a 4020 noctua fan with 2 parallel 150W 1/4w resistors for an equivalent 75 ohms of resistance. It was overvolting the fan and the tiny resistors were not dissipating enough heat.
2nd try was with zener diode with leads trimmed short on a 4020 noctua fan, with 2 layers of shrink tube around it. Still was getting very hot amd melted the other wire it was next to.
3rd try is 12v zener diode with leads left long (they act like little heatsinks and spread the heat out) and running a 4010 fan which uses 1/2 the power, with only 1 layer of shrink tube around the diode, and a couple layers around the wire next to it as shown in my install. Also I tucked the extra wire & diode I to the empty spot where the old blower fan was, so it's being actively cooled at least a little bit by the 4010 fan.
It's running at 36C now, which I'm pretty sure it's OK.
What do you think about the motherboard temps? It's a bit hotter than stock but is it enough to worry about?
I never knew that 1 or 2 watts could get something over 150C before this, but hey I learned something new!
OOOOOHHHH WAIT
The 4020 fan I was using was a 5V version. Which explains why it was pushing so much air at 12v! It was outperforming the stock fan and was just about as loud!
Thanks for bringing this up, would not have caught that if I didn't take another look at my fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh, that more reassuring, I thought you were running it with the diode above 100c. Theoretically, infinite temps can be achieved as long as the input power exceeds power dissipated, hence I was telling you to leave out the insulation around the diode.
Your Mobo temp is perfectly reasonable. Most semiconductor run around 40-80 without any issues. Higher temps can significantly decrease life probably due to a combination of increasing electromigration and causing thermal migration of dopants.
Also surprised that the 5v fan didn't get fried at 12v. Looks like they are well built.
Love your videos, keep up the good work!
I am using 7812 voltage regulator for my Noctua 40x10 12V fan.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Now I am a big confused, in the video you had the 12v zener measured 150C, was that heat due to the fact you put a 5V fan there (V 0,25W)?
Because both the Noctua 10 and 20mm are having the same Watt, 0,6W at 0,05A.
If I install as you did in the video but using the 12V (Noctua 40x20mm), will the heat be under control on the zener?
Great overview of what goes into this modification! I just installed a Sprite Pro kit on my V2 so I'm not sure if the same fans will work, but I want to figure out something eventually cause the Sprite hotend is actually louder than the V2 one.
120 mm Blower fan!!!! YES!
Ok, I'll make a 120mm version. But why would you need that?
Ender 3 V2 had that problem, if you turn off part cooling the mainboard fan is also turned off. Is that the case with S1?
I'm not sure, but it seems like they carried over some of the design flaws from the Ender 3, so it wouldn't surprise me. The motherboard fan is constantly on unless you unplug the machine, which is really annoying to me.
These get better and better each time. I just put one of these bad boys on my Aquila and a SKR Mini 3.0. Too bad nothing happened when I turned it on…not sure what I did wrong yet.
A multimeter is great for checking to see if your wires are done correctly, if the fan is seeing 12v it will turn on! Just remember , positive to yellow, negative to black.
Thanks. I just got a multimeter and have yet to try it out. I don’t think the fan is the issue. They don’t boot up with the board on the 3.0. The stock board fried when the hot end hit the bed. So both the fan and the board are new. This should be a drop in for the Aquila X2 but nothing powered up. I probably did something wrong. But hey I didn’t see sparks or smoke, so any crash you can walk away from right?
@@jpsfish5966Damm, how did you run the hotend into the bed? That shouldn't be possible!
Can i use this also for the "3 S1 PRO" ? Edit: yes is also working for s1 Pro
Thanks for beta testing. I just got a pro and was going to try this too
@@NathanBuildsRobots i did remix you part with another one, so i got a dual duct for a single 5015 and a 4020 fan both fans are 24 volts so no needs for doing voltage conversions and the sunon fan is really silent and cheap while blowing more air than the expensive noctua ones. look for the mf40202v2-1000u-a99 there is also 1 variant thats a little better on airflow but also little louder
@@satoshipokemon8411 nice. I think I bought a couple 24v Sunons to try out. Only annoying thing is they aren't on Amazon Prime
@@satoshipokemon8411
The 2 models I bought: amzn.to/3H2iIBd
amzn.to/3x7WJUR
@@NathanBuildsRobots already excited about what you will do with them. by the way, 3s1 pro auto level/mesh is somehow bugged if you have problems just reset the printer and use manual level 🥲. wasted hours trying to figure out whats wrong 😂 butt seems some firmware bug and no newer fw available till now
The intro is like the adult swim version of CNC kitchen. I love it.
you should do a comparison with the upgraded printer and an original ender with non silent stepper drivers
Non-silent stepper drivers? Never again...
Did you created at the end the version with 2 5015? i am interested in thankyou
I have not yet. I'm working on a new breakout board PCB for the Ender 3 S1, I'll be designing some new fan mounts for that soon.
The sound that my S1 pro makes is crazy. Just the fans. I need to replace them. I would like to see another video for the pro version, maybe more updated with links to buy the thinks we need. That would be awsome.
The fan replacement process should be very similar for the Pro, but I may do another episode on S1 Pro fan replacement. It won't be out until next month, but it should be interesting.
At higher speeds the Y axis on my Pro is loud compared to the normal S1, almost to the point where the fan noise doesnt matter.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for your work! I will wait, and I will share the video in this facebook group that are s1/s1 pro owners only. This would be very helpful. (P.S. if possible, try with less crazy thing, cutting the bottom so mutch and cutting original cables, are very scary things to see)
what is this tool called he used at 5:19?
I had a HeroMe set up on my E3P and all Noctua except part cooling which used 2 5015s. I just got a sprite, and it is LOUD! But, I don't know how I feel about modding the Sprite yet... I really need to build another machine. Like the eyeballs!
Have you let prints run for a long time using this setup?
I ask because I have a similar setup (slightly different design) using 2x 4020 Sunon Maglev axial fans (One for hotend and one for part cooling), and heat creep inevitably sets in for any print longer than 60 mins in duration.
Upon further reading Noctua NF-A4X10 has a lower CFM than the Sunon fan. However, the Noctua provides higher static pressure. Can you advise please?
Great video as always Nathan.
I didn't have any issues. The way I designed this it provides much more cooling than some others I have looked at. The fan recirculates air against the parts its up against, in addition to pushing air through the heatsink.
I've since swapped the hotend over to using an entirely different printhead (Microswiss NG)
@NathanBuildsRobots I'll try a few setups. Thanks for your reply.
Your bolts in the part list above go to an m2 set. Will those work?
The Amazon listing got changed, I updated it to a new M3 set.
I have six ender 3 pro, and they have all been running with blocked power supply fans since day 1 to remove the incredibly loud noise. I yanked a zip tie into the fan to stop it spinning. Problem solved.
Lol, nice
@@NathanBuildsRobots for two years, Nate, and we are running ABS parts at high Heat = high load on the power supply...
@@cp001cp001 I wonder if the vertical power supply mounting is helping keep things cool even without the fan.
can you please make a 5015 fan version?
Alright, will do
@@NathanBuildsRobots if you make a noctua partscooling fan version then no need for 5015 blower fan version for me :p
Add another to the 5015 request here
@@xxxxxxxxsubxxxxxxxx OK, ok!
NONONONONO with that power supply cover!
When I was cutting out the hole for the 200mm fan my bottom panel got all mangled, it’s beyond fixing, what should I do?
You didn't need that panel anyways 🙃
Personally, I would hammer it back flat and make it work
Fantastic video, thank you very much! Why don't you put one (or two) buck converter(s) from 24v to 12v between the motherboard and the wire into the case?
I figured the always on approach is more failsafe than running it through the motherboard. There might be cases where the PSU is on and drawing lots of power, but the motherboard fan is off (like when heating up the bed at the start of a print).
The link on Thingiverse for the feet.. to buy the squash balls.. goes to an M2 screw set instead. Might need to update that. What size squash balls did you use?
Squash balls should all be the same size. You want the softest ones, which should be double yellow dot.
When I do amazon search get all sorts of squash balls and sizes. A link to one you know fits and works well would be better.
I have purchased these for 4 of my printers, works every time!
amzn.to/3tIpG8K (affiliate link)
Will a 1W Zenner diode work instead of a 5W like you’re using? My NF-A4x20 Noctua fan has a max input power of 0.6W.
Probably, I just like using the larger ones because they run slightly cooler
Please tell me abiut the feet, squash ball, where to mount it?
Files and Pictures can be found here:
www.patreon.com/posts/62155640
www.patreon.com/posts/62156070
The feet bolt on to the existing holes on the bottom of the machine, and 2 t-slot nuts
your hysterical!
Assuming one was going for silent replacement rather than overkill super-cool on the PSU, off-hand, what are the fan dimensions for direct brown fan replacement?
I believe it's a 60 mm fan.
Yeah, I think it’s a 6010 fan
Hi there, can you share the setting to printing with PETG? The Nozzle and base plate temperature, Fan speed, etc...
I use mostly the same settings as I do with PLA.
Differences are:
Usually I do 70C bed, 240C hotend.
Fan speed limit set to 50%
also, I don't push the speed as much as I do with PLA
Thanks! 👌
Another question, what was the position you used to get the best result of printing?
@@1980humbe I place it in the middle of the bed whenever possible. It has the most even temperature
I want to do this but I don’t wanna go cutting any wires. Can’t I just get a 12v fan instead of buying the 24 and messing with wires?
does the zener diode reach temperatures of 150 degrees celcius ????? wtf?
That was a shot while powering the 40x20 noctua. The 40x10 noctua is half the power so should run a bit cooler.
Zener diodes drop the voltage by turning it into heat, so they get hot! 🔥
@@NathanBuildsRobots not sure how u were intending to make a partscoolingfan for noctua fans , but i was thinking: how about making the gap where the blower fan blows through bigger to be able to horizontally lay flat a noctua 40mm fan on there?
Are we able to get the raw pcb sent to us from China? Your site doesn't ship globally, and the price of coming from the US would be a lot
Hi Nom,
I am operating more like a niche product development firm, where I offer high quality goods that are professionally assembled and tested. The proceeds go towards paying off development costs and funding more innovative products.
I am in contact with distributors that may be able to offer discounts and local shipping rates once I enter full-rate production in December.
Hi nathan
I saw picture : yellow wire ( from noctua fan) connect to diode. Is it right? Yellow wire of noctua control speed.
Hi Khoi, in my experience with Noctua fans, yellow is positive, black is ground. Blue/green are PWM wires. Other manufacturers assign yellow to PWM sometimes.
Check out this article by Noctua:
noctua.at/en/what-pin-configuration-do-noctua-products-use
Does the noctua help with the over hangs? I can’t get over 60 with just the 4020
The Noctua 4020 axial fans dont move a lot of air due to their low static pressure. A 4020 blower fan or 5015 blower fan would get you at least 75 degree overhangs. For reference, the stock fan is a 4010 blower fan
I am likely just going to replace each fan directly for the power supply and motherboard to start.
I got a screencap of the motherboard fan (CHA6024RL-15B 24V 0.10A), but not the power supply fan.
If you still have it kicking around, can you let me know what part it is? Thanks!
I haven't looked at my S1 in a while, been tied up getting a couple reviews made. But I will be looking at my S1 hopefully in a couple weeks and I can check.
The side cutters are not even made for that work you have used then, no wonder they breake, they are only for cutting electronics small wires and legs from resistors and similar work, use propper tools for the work and they hold much longer.
I consider the clippers I was using as "borderline acceptable" for the job, with safety glasses as necessary precaution. They are high-quality American made cutter that can probably make 1,000 - 10,000 cuts before breaking, which is better than most tools you get at a hardware store.
The ones that come with the printer are too thin and would break in 10-100 cuts and are definitely a no-go.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I cut a thicker piece plastic with a side cutters I thought it could be done, but than the one blade snapped and was flying in my direction, it's always better to wear saefty glasse. 😬
@@WaschyNumber1 quality control is extremely important for tools subject to repetitive high stresses, like cutters.
Simple mistakes in processing can result in a loss of 90% or more of its strength.
i see substansial "wobbling" of the whole printer i i go even a little bit fast, are you compensation the softer/higher feet with slow print speed?
Does it matter if I use 3-pin or 4-pin fans?
It don't think it matters. I heard reviews saying the 4-pin fans are slightly quieter, so I went with the 4 pin versions.
Would you make your f3d files available?
Join the discord where I can actually share the files
do you need to install buck converter on the fan?
Hi Im wondering why your Motherboard and Stepper drivers has increased. You only opened the case and used bigger heat sinks and still uses the same fan right? Why does this lead to higher temperatures?
The old motherboard fan was placed directly above the motherboard, so it directed a lot of cooling air right onto it.
With my current setup, the motherboard is just in the exhaust path of the big fan. So not as direct airflow.
Also I noticed that some prints were done on PLA and some were done with PETG. PETG runs at higher temperatures, and draws more current, so everything on the motherboard gets hotter.
These are not research grade publications with all variables controlled as well as they could be. Just my modding, ramblings, and personal anecdotal evidence.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah I didnt know that u got rid of the motherboard fan. I gonna keep it.
Should I mind the maximum power of the power supply or can I connect without problems a new Power supply fan and a rasperry Pi?
@@Uni-qk5tx To be honest, I'm not sure! I think it should be equivalent to the previous fan
Hey can anyone let me know if the stock blower fan behind the CR Touch is disabled and left in place or taken out? I'm about to make this modification but using the "4020 Axial" version with two Noctua fans and I'm a bit unsure about this specifically. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
I took it out. Should help with airflow. But the trick about my fan duct, and the reason it works better than most alternatives, is the fan actually produces a lot of cooling by stirring the air against the face its up against, not just the flow through the heatsink.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Awesome, Thank you for these designs, the video instructions and also getting back to me on this personally. I laughed my ass off at the Intro skit, once again thanks i appreciate all of this.
Hi Nathan, any update on the partscoolingfan noctua model yet?
It and the 5015 will be publicly released on Feb 28th. If you want access to the closed beta we are testing it out on Patreon:
www.patreon.com/posts/62368547
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'd love to but too bad i dont own a credit card :(
@@aim6mac send me a message on discord or email
www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/contact
@@NathanBuildsRobots i just did :)
I don't dare touch the electronics. I'm just too stupid for that. Do you have any tips for me?
I would like to make a simple adapter like the one i made in this video and sell them on my website.
That you can just plug 1 side into the fan port and the other side into the noctua fan. I really wish 3d printers would move to the ATX standard, like what computers use. That way there would be standardized pins and connectors, and easier upgrades.
How do I validate that my hotend is cooled enough (without termocamera)? (I want to install different fans, not the same as you did)
As long as you don't have any issues with the printer clogging or underextruding, you're fine. I think all metal heatbreaks are better at insulating the hot and cold parts, so I can get away with using a smaller fan.
The diode seems quite inefficient, why not one of those poststamp size dc step down converters? Would be cool to see a design that fits a MP1584EN converter on the model
Why not just use a 40x20mm 24v fan? That seems like the easiest solution to me unless I'm missing something.
I added just the parts fan only version and I'm having issues with the fan not coming on/ not coming on full power because of the extruder motor. Did u have this problem? I'm using the fan from your parts list
Yes I had that issue. Which version are you using? The issue was documented in the 5015, but I posted a fixed version.
Is it the 4020 blower? I might need to modify that one too, moving the fan upwards
I saw they have the option of the silent board upgrade on their website. Does that mean it doesn't come with a silent board as standard?
All S1 printers come with silent stepper driver boards
M3 bolts don't fit any suggestions?
For which part? If it's the printed part, you may need to reprint with smaller holes, or shrink them some other way.
I have a toolkit with m2,m3,m4, and m5 books, and have always been able to find screws that fit for my 3d printer mods.
@@NathanBuildsRobots for the duct part for the fan my holes were too small for m3 and couldn't find any smaller had to heat up a screw and drill through it to make it bigger
Incredible, I did the editing with the A20FLX 12v noctua, at the start I thought that the ender did not work...
Only for the head, but the zener diodes... Kind of freak me out.
Can we mount a Noctua 40x40x10 to cool the heating block instead of the existing one?
Thank you for your good advice.
I like to use 5015 blower fans for part cooling, and noctua 40x10 for cooking the hotend heatsink
Yes, zener is not good idea😀 But, my solution is configuring firmware, in firmware you can change PWM from 255 to 127 and this is in output 12V..
Thanks for this great video. One question: Where to connect the voltage for the fan, placing the voltage reducer. Thank you
im here for the Lamb's reference...
oh and i also own noisey beasts
Would you mind sharing all youre retraction settings? Cant seem to get rid of stringing on my stock S1..
I use 1.2mm of retraction and get good results.
I go over how I set up my print profiles in Prusaslicer on my website:
www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/testing/ender3s1
This is a brilliant cooler, it printed fantastically and it's such a nice addition.
I followed the wiring guide for the noctua flx 40x10 and the zenner diode as shown but when connecting the fan and testing it i get nothing from it, could that be a bad zenner diode? I checked the pins when making the connector so the wires match polarity.
The noctua 3 pin and 4 pin use different wires for the + side. One uses red, other uses yellow. Try checking the pinout for your specific fan
@@NathanBuildsRobots I looked up a pin diagram and yeah I was wired up to the speed sensor (yellow) and not the 12v (red) as i butchered the wires directly from the fan.
Many thanks for your help, your videos, and your modderboard Nathan, mine just came today :)
Cheers mate, keep on moddin!
nice video! going for it asap, do you keep the fan on the left side of the sprite? I don't understand where to plug 2 fan if you do keep the one on the left could you explain that to me? my English isn't that good so I might not have understood something in the video! good job anyway!
Yes, you can remove the left side fan. Also, if you join the discord you can ask about other fan mods for the hotend. There are some good options out there that aren’t by me