In my younger days I made tooling for automotive trim. I knew I didn't know all but watching these videos shows me how much I didn't know. Working with mills and metal lathes is a different occupation but you're still making parts. At home we have a band sawmill. It needs an impeller on the sawdust exit side to blow it further out. We're building a conveyor that will need to dust blown over. I shall copy this design and center it on the drive wheel. Thanks to all who upload informative videos.
It’s amazing to revisit these videos Marius - your video making is so different now, and your confidence in front of the camera has grown immeasurably. Still great ingenuity as always though:)
Your future is going to be very successful for you I imagine, your videos are very well done too. Just a tip; if you wish to make impellers for a dust collector, I'd recommend a "soft starting" motor, you can get motors with equal HP but with a low starting torque = I'm thinking if you regularly use your dust collector, and flick it on a few times, the high starting torque motor could eventually shake the wooden impeller to bits and it might be a bit destructive in your shop, just a tip. Otherwise keep up the good work :)
Many years ago, I was involved in a hovercraft project using ducted centrifugal fans. These fans were 900 mm dia, and the blades were backward facing aerofoils. The general principle of the fan design, was, the the air entryarea, should be equal or greater than the swept area of the leading edge of the blade, and the exit swept area should be equal, or slightly less than the swept entry. This is because as air expands, it slows down. If the air entry is smaller than the swept area of the leading edge of the blade, then it chokes the blades, or restricts the airflow into the blades. Keep this in mind for your next upgrade.
What is the swept area? Is it the surface area of the blade height * inner circumference of the ring of blades? If so, I don't see how having the entrance equal to or greater than that is possible for anything but the thinnest of impellers. There are many blowers where the intake is very large, but the blades are very high, so the area of the intake would be many times smaller than that of the area of the inner circumference of the blades. Also, it would seem logical that the output be relatively similar in area to the intake, since the idea is air flow, not to make a compressor. It's very hard to find basic blower design principles online, so I've been going by what's logical and other people's projects.
bassl0va The swept area of the leading edge of the blade, is the circumference of the 'ring' formed by the leading edges of the blades, times the length, or height of the blade, as you have surmised. The outlet area needs to be roughly the same, so the back edge of the blades needs to be smaller than the front, so the fan is conical. The calculations can become quite complicated, and as its more than 40 years ago my memory of them has faded. www.google.fr/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=backward%20facing%20fan%20design Above is what a google search turned up, that you could browse through, for; 'backward facing fan design.' Making a conical fan is more complicated, so often, fan makers dont bother, due to the economics involved. They just use brute force rather than elegance, but with a hovercraft, minimum weight and maximum efficiency was essential. en.wiki2.org/wiki/Centrifugal_fan Above is another description. Calculating the best angle for the blades was also quite involved, as I remember, [not very clearly now] but I think I ended up with something between 20-30 degrees to a line through the leading edge, and the fan center, and an airfoil shape was considered highly desirable, for efficiency, reduced noise, etc. but another search on that subject may turn up what you need, as I'm sure there must be computer programs for fan design now. Anything that projects into the airflow, like ribs, etc, is very undesirable, as this reduces efficiency, and collects dust and debris. Some more info here. www.esmagazine.com/ext/resources/ES/Home/Files/PDF/WP_AAon.pdf
Well done. I liked watching you go through the whole process instead of skipping most of it. I'm just curious why you cut notches out of the cover instead of just removing it?
Your motor is hugely strong. You could make more "blades" for your propeller so you would have more "area" within same size without the need to increase the radius. The hard part is to assembler too many blades in the propeller, but it act like a turbine! When efficiency does not matter, we can do amazing things.
7 лет назад
Hej Marius! Gibt es einen Grund, warum Du den Impeller vor dem Zyklon installierst und nicht dahinter? Ich überlege mir aktuell auch eine Absauganlage zu bauen und würde rein intuitiv die Impellereinheit hinter dem Zyklon installieren, damit angesaugte größere "Bröckchen" aus scharfkantigem Hartholz direkt in den Abscheider kommen und so nicht in das Gebläse gelangen. Oder würde man sich hierdurch andere Nachteile einhandeln? Gruß, Björn
Sind die Blätter denn im Anlauf Moment abgerissen oder während des Betriebs? Ich hätte ja erwartet das sich die Welle mit der Passfeder direkt im Holz durch dreht =D Evtl. könnte man einen Sanftstarter verwenden das dürfte der Kupplung einiges an Stress ersparen. Hab ich an meinem Staubsauger für den Schuppen auch dran, gibts auch ein Video davon.
Im Anlaufmoment. Leider kostet ein Sanftstarter für 380v ziemlich viel Geld und mir gefällt der starke Anlauf. Anschalten...0,5sec...an, kein Warten. Aber die hätten die volle Drehzahl auch mit Sanftanlauf nicht ausgehalten. Jetzt ist ja der obere Ring drauf und das ganze Ding ist stabil genug. Die Kupplung hält das alles locker aus. Kannst du mir einen Link zu dem Video schicken?
the braces you added to the fins will disturb the air flow. Impeller design requires advance CFD analysis and maybe air tunnel simulation that are conducted usually by big companies. it will be much easier to just copy existed product, cheers
good morning very interesting I found your personal video and would like to tell me if it is easily the size of the blades and the thickness of the width of the base as well as the fins
Wie geil ist das dann! The epoxy is a good idea, use it to add some internal radii on the joins thus reducing the stress concentrations. I think you can remove the braces on the blades now you have that support ring, that will give you some efficiency back. Aber sehr gut gemacht!
Euan Dykes Yes, I could remove the braces again, but I don't think I'll get a big efficiency difference, because these braces are at the back. And air isn't moved there. But I also don't use this impeller. Too loud...even with good ear protection. So are you now English or German?
Interesting, I didn't think MDF would've been strong enough. I've gotten the plans from woodgears and I am going to simply scale up the impeller for my 2800rpm 4kw motor. I have no hardwood of suitable size though for the vanes so I am contemplating alternatives..
1873Winchester Good luck with that. But you need to make grooves for the vanes. Glue only won't be strong enough. A 4kw motor could destroy a not strong enough impeller in a split second. Like you saw in my video.
Marius Hornberger Dang, then I'll need to buy another router to make that compass cutout, unless I can rig something up for my router table (that router is no longer usable as a handheld one after mounting it).
Marius Hornberger It was actually much easier than I thought, needed to drill a hole in my table however for a pivot point. But doing it like that and using an awl to puch pivot holes made the whole thing fast and easy, if you aren't opposed to holes in your router tabls...
Marius Hornberger You where right about the 4kw motor, tested it tonight after balancing, it had no mercy for the impeller. I had made the vanes from a thick piece of plastic pipe, I had router grooves, used epoxy and screws but it tore through that and failed pretty catastrophically. I also tried running it without a top lid, that probably didn't help. I think your method of using MDF or plywood works better, less material to accelerate and less momentum. I will redo it without the heavy plastic vanes. It was a good thing I had an extension cord and stood behind protection...
I am afraid that at 10.35 one vane blew away because without the blades being tied together on top, the centrifugal force acting on the centre of gravity which is away from the attachment glued edge, caused a torque, tensioning and lifting the inside part and compressing the outer part of the slot . You probably thought that the whole blade would be subjected to a shear sliding force where all the slot would be contributing in a homogenious fashion, but it is not. When you added the upper ring, all the blades were tied together and then and only then did that glued slot had only an outer/sideways, lateral force without torquing the blade as when you did not have the top ring. Perhaps a fillet would have helped but the top ring is best. You are young, very talented in different directions, very intelligent, but sometimes you take risks in design, which is not a bad thing in young folks, but do protect yourself when you switch on big home made impellers. I like your sense of humour. Thanks for these videos,
+Carmel Pule' True, during the build I thought that this could happen. But don't worry about me, I switched it on from the outside of the workshop, so I was safe.
zerfällt dir das ding imme rbeim starten des Motors? du solltest einen langsam anlauf oder nen FU vorschalten, dann reißt das ned so an und du kannst die drehzahl einstellen,... :)
+Marius Hornberger cooles Projekt !! aber wenn du nen FU verwendet hättest würde der Lüfter nicht so aggresiv anfahren, du beschleunigst da ne Menge masse,.. wann hat es dir die Finnen abgerissen, beim einschalten, oder nachdem er seine Drehzahl schon erreicht hatte?
Eldobaz D'Shkandebal No, not really. They support the wings to be not pulled over. On the other side they wouldn't be nearly as strong and would also block the airflow.
Marius Hornberger Hmm, it depends on the direction of rotation. I thought that the impeller rotates clockwise and blows from center. If so, air slides over the front side of blade, there is zone of a high pressure and triangles prevent air to pass freely.
They blades are curved away from the rotation. If you look on it from the motor side, it runs clockwise. The blower sucks the air from the middle and blows it out the side. I did it the right way, otherwise it wouldn't really work.
Ich würde ja beim "Turbinenbau" im CAD auch die Belastungsanalyse durchführen? Das ist doch schon ziemlich weit im Maschinenbau, anstelle von Holzbau und Tischlern. Bei der Belastungsanalyse wird schon relativ früh klar, ob das Schaufelmaterial *dauerhaft* den Kräften und Vibrationen gewachsen ist. Die Beschleunigungskräfte beim Anfahren sind auch nicht so viel höher als beim Dauerbetrieb (oder doch?), ich denke nicht das die Masseträgheit durch eine plötzliche Spitzenlast hier wirklich einen Unterschied macht. Wenn das nicht am Anfang hält, hält es auch später nicht ... Glück gehabt, dass dich keines von den Schaufelbruchteilen erwischt hat beim Testlauf. Anderenseits: hinterher ist *natürlich* jeder (hier) schlauer. Belastungsanalyse, pfff ... Und: selbst Ironman hatte seine Probleme mit Turbinenschaufeln beim Helicarrier ;-) Schöne Arbeit.
I don't know, it happened so fast. But one hit the wall. Just imagine that 36cm rotor spinning at about half speed (1400 rpm) and a fin coming loose and you get the idea on how far it could fly.
I wasn't surprised to see that MDF break. I knew they would keep breaking with only the bottom part glued in place. Maybe a real solid wood could have worked, but you need to understand that MDF while have it's pro's, will never be as strong as solid wood. You can never hold down a vane if MDF like that by a 1/4 " piece and exert force like that motor does, it's almost like it always has this certain brittle quality to it. Great build though, love your videos.
@Marius Hornberger Hast du irgendwas mit @Matthias Wandel zu tun? Er hat doch auch vor einiger Zeit ein sehr änliches Projekt gehabt und seine Videos ähneln deinen sehr. Ich gucke deine Videos sehr gerne. Weiter so. (for no german speakers) Do you know Matthias Wandel? He has build also a dust collector a long time ago and his videos are actually the same as yours. I really like to watch your videos.
+Steinblocksebi (I respond in English so everone can understand) Not really. I watch his videos too, of course, and got some inspiration. But I had this dust collector built, before he made his one.
Gute Anleitung. Aber: Es gibt so unsagbar viele Anleitungen auf Englisch. Hier findet sich endlich mal ein intelligenter, deutscher Bastler der gerne sein Wissen weitergibt. Aber auch hier leider wieder nur in Englisch. Warum???????????
Weil die Reichweite einfach sehr viel größer ist. Schau dir mal meine Anleitung zu der Schleifvorrichtung für Drechselwerkzeuge an. Das englische hat 29000 Aufrufe und das deutsche nur 2600.
Ja, das ist natürlich schön zusammengereimt. mehr Klicks - mehr Leuten geholfen, mehr Feedback und ja auch mehr Geld. Aber die meisten Leute interessiert ja nur Geld... ich glaube nicht, dass ich mich zu diesem Thema auch noch rechtfertigen muss.
In my younger days I made tooling for automotive trim. I knew I didn't know all but watching these videos shows me how much I didn't know. Working with mills and metal lathes is a different occupation but you're still making parts.
At home we have a band sawmill. It needs an impeller on the sawdust exit side to blow it further out. We're building a conveyor that will need to dust blown over. I shall copy this design and center it on the drive wheel. Thanks to all who upload informative videos.
OK, just saw the newer video, about the impeller failure.
We have all learned a lot, from that. Glad it was not worse and no injuries.
Thank you. 😁✌🖖
A great build. Really enjoyed watching your methods and the way you present. Also looking forward to future videos.
Thank you!
Well done. I like the simplicity of the MDF vanes... saves you a lot of headache!
Great job and appropriate background music, always at the correct volume level throughout the entire video ..WELL DONE !!!
It’s amazing to revisit these videos Marius - your video making is so different now, and your confidence in front of the camera has grown immeasurably. Still great ingenuity as always though:)
Your future is going to be very successful for you I imagine, your videos are very well done too.
Just a tip; if you wish to make impellers for a dust collector, I'd recommend a "soft starting" motor, you can get motors with equal HP but with a low starting torque = I'm thinking if you regularly use your dust collector, and flick it on a few times, the high starting torque motor could eventually shake the wooden impeller to bits and it might be a bit destructive in your shop, just a tip.
Otherwise keep up the good work :)
+AlmightyBanger I used it for over 1,5 years for now and no problems at all so far, but thanks for the suggestion.
Marius Hornberger well so much for that....
You should see if you could soft start that motor. Man, it's powerful. Nice build.
Yes I should, but unfortunately it is very complicated or expensive.
Many years ago, I was involved in a hovercraft project using ducted centrifugal fans.
These fans were 900 mm dia, and the blades were backward facing aerofoils.
The general principle of the fan design, was, the the air entryarea, should be equal or greater than the swept area of the leading edge of the blade, and the exit swept area should be equal, or slightly less than the swept entry. This is because as air expands, it slows down.
If the air entry is smaller than the swept area of the leading edge of the blade, then it chokes the blades, or restricts the airflow into the blades.
Keep this in mind for your next upgrade.
What is the swept area? Is it the surface area of the blade height * inner circumference of the ring of blades? If so, I don't see how having the entrance equal to or greater than that is possible for anything but the thinnest of impellers. There are many blowers where the intake is very large, but the blades are very high, so the area of the intake would be many times smaller than that of the area of the inner circumference of the blades.
Also, it would seem logical that the output be relatively similar in area to the intake, since the idea is air flow, not to make a compressor.
It's very hard to find basic blower design principles online, so I've been going by what's logical and other people's projects.
bassl0va The swept area of the leading edge of the blade, is the circumference of the 'ring' formed by the leading edges of the blades, times the length, or height of the blade, as you have surmised.
The outlet area needs to be roughly the same, so the back edge of the blades needs to be smaller than the front, so the fan is conical.
The calculations can become quite complicated, and as its more than 40 years ago my memory of them has faded.
www.google.fr/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=backward%20facing%20fan%20design
Above is what a google search turned up, that you could browse through, for; 'backward facing fan design.'
Making a conical fan is more complicated, so often, fan makers dont bother, due to the economics involved. They just use brute force rather than elegance, but with a hovercraft, minimum weight and maximum efficiency was essential.
en.wiki2.org/wiki/Centrifugal_fan
Above is another description.
Calculating the best angle for the blades was also quite involved, as I remember, [not very clearly now] but I think I ended up with something between 20-30 degrees to a line through the leading edge, and the fan center, and an airfoil shape was considered highly desirable, for efficiency, reduced noise, etc. but another search on that subject may turn up what you need, as I'm sure there must be computer programs for fan design now.
Anything that projects into the airflow, like ribs, etc, is very undesirable, as this reduces efficiency, and collects dust and debris.
Some more info here.
www.esmagazine.com/ext/resources/ES/Home/Files/PDF/WP_AAon.pdf
A great build but do those curved blades significantly increase performance? Flat paddle blades would be stronger and easier to build.
Well done. I liked watching you go through the whole process instead of skipping most of it.
I'm just curious why you cut notches out of the cover instead of just removing it?
Thanks! Because it was sealed with silicone from below and I would have to remove everything get disassamble it.
Your motor is hugely strong. You could make more "blades" for your propeller so you would have more "area" within same size without the need to increase the radius. The hard part is to assembler too many blades in the propeller, but it act like a turbine! When efficiency does not matter, we can do amazing things.
Hej Marius!
Gibt es einen Grund, warum Du den Impeller vor dem Zyklon installierst und nicht dahinter? Ich überlege mir aktuell auch eine Absauganlage zu bauen und würde rein intuitiv die Impellereinheit hinter dem Zyklon installieren, damit angesaugte größere "Bröckchen" aus scharfkantigem Hartholz direkt in den Abscheider kommen und so nicht in das Gebläse gelangen. Oder würde man sich hierdurch andere Nachteile einhandeln?
Gruß,
Björn
Die beste Eigenbau-Absaugung die ich bisher auf YT gesehen habe! Kompliment! Irgendwann bau ich das ganze mal nach :-)
Danke! Viel Spaß dann dabei.
Sind die Blätter denn im Anlauf Moment abgerissen oder während des Betriebs?
Ich hätte ja erwartet das sich die Welle mit der Passfeder direkt im Holz durch dreht =D
Evtl. könnte man einen Sanftstarter verwenden das dürfte der Kupplung einiges an Stress ersparen. Hab ich an meinem Staubsauger für den Schuppen auch dran, gibts auch ein Video davon.
Im Anlaufmoment. Leider kostet ein Sanftstarter für 380v ziemlich viel Geld und mir gefällt der starke Anlauf. Anschalten...0,5sec...an, kein Warten. Aber die hätten die volle Drehzahl auch mit Sanftanlauf nicht ausgehalten. Jetzt ist ja der obere Ring drauf und das ganze Ding ist stabil genug. Die Kupplung hält das alles locker aus. Kannst du mir einen Link zu dem Video schicken?
Nice work!
Thanks for sharing this project, hopefully I can make something similar for my small shop.
I might give it a go , to use it as a charger for the oil burner.
the braces you added to the fins will disturb the air flow. Impeller design requires advance CFD analysis and maybe air tunnel simulation that are conducted usually by big companies. it will be much easier to just copy existed product, cheers
+Hamid A but it works anyway.
+Marius Hornberger I know you are doing awesome anyway also :-) Just I wanted to participate and let you know
Marius, great job! Your fingers without damage - it's great! =) I wish you success!
Nice work, looking forward to the next video.
Thanks! Next video hopefully on Saturday.
good morning very interesting I found your personal video and would like to tell me if it is easily the size of the blades and the thickness of the width of the base as well as the fins
Wie geil ist das dann! The epoxy is a good idea, use it to add some internal radii on the joins thus reducing the stress concentrations. I think you can remove the braces on the blades now you have that support ring, that will give you some efficiency back. Aber sehr gut gemacht!
Euan Dykes Yes, I could remove the braces again, but I don't think I'll get a big efficiency difference, because these braces are at the back. And air isn't moved there. But I also don't use this impeller. Too loud...even with good ear protection.
So are you now English or German?
Marius Hornberger I'm a Kiwi living in Germany.
Cool!
How did you find the heavy spots? Didn't get your explanation..
Where did you get the motor from and for how much?
+Holden V8Cars just read the video description
Hi Marius, great piece of woodworking!
Where can I find the link to the sketchup drawing of the impeller upgrade?
Regards, Cristiano
I really like your ideas and how you edit the video. Hope to see more in the future, so you've got a new sub! :)
Thank you. Much appreciated.
Holy the motor is fast and strong, I fainted I want it so bad
Go buy one in the store.3 HP motor, large cannister, Hepafilter, 2 feet in diameter, $500.00. 240volts 15 Amps.
Dont forget 1 horsepower is 750 watts.
Interesting, I didn't think MDF would've been strong enough. I've gotten the plans from woodgears and I am going to simply scale up the impeller for my 2800rpm 4kw motor. I have no hardwood of suitable size though for the vanes so I am contemplating alternatives..
1873Winchester Good luck with that. But you need to make grooves for the vanes. Glue only won't be strong enough. A 4kw motor could destroy a not strong enough impeller in a split second. Like you saw in my video.
Marius Hornberger Dang, then I'll need to buy another router to make that compass cutout, unless I can rig something up for my router table (that router is no longer usable as a handheld one after mounting it).
should be possible with the router table
Marius Hornberger It was actually much easier than I thought, needed to drill a hole in my table however for a pivot point. But doing it like that and using an awl to puch pivot holes made the whole thing fast and easy, if you aren't opposed to holes in your router tabls...
Marius Hornberger You where right about the 4kw motor, tested it tonight after balancing, it had no mercy for the impeller. I had made the vanes from a thick piece of plastic pipe, I had router grooves, used epoxy and screws but it tore through that and failed pretty catastrophically. I also tried running it without a top lid, that probably didn't help. I think your method of using MDF or plywood works better, less material to accelerate and less momentum. I will redo it without the heavy plastic vanes. It was a good thing I had an extension cord and stood behind protection...
I am afraid that at 10.35 one vane blew away because without the blades being tied together on top, the centrifugal force acting on the centre of gravity which is away from the attachment glued edge, caused a torque, tensioning and lifting the inside part and compressing the outer part of the slot . You probably thought that the whole blade would be subjected to a shear sliding force where all the slot would be contributing in a homogenious fashion, but it is not. When you added the upper ring, all the blades were tied together and then and only then did that glued slot had only an outer/sideways, lateral force without torquing the blade as when you did not have the top ring. Perhaps a fillet would have helped but the top ring is best.
You are young, very talented in different directions, very intelligent, but sometimes you take risks in design, which is not a bad thing in young folks, but do protect yourself when you switch on big home made impellers. I like your sense of humour. Thanks for these videos,
+Carmel Pule' True, during the build I thought that this could happen. But don't worry about me, I switched it on from the outside of the workshop, so I was safe.
I always wonder what tool you started with to make all your awesome gear.
dadygee A little circular saw and a drill ;)
Marius Hornberger
Awesome! Then a small circular table saw will be my next purchase :)
zerfällt dir das ding imme rbeim starten des Motors? du solltest einen langsam anlauf oder nen FU vorschalten, dann reißt das ned so an und du kannst die drehzahl einstellen,... :)
+bluebull1985 bis jetzt hab ich keine Probleme.
+Marius Hornberger
cooles Projekt !!
aber wenn du nen FU verwendet hättest würde der Lüfter nicht so aggresiv anfahren, du beschleunigst da ne Menge masse,.. wann hat es dir die Finnen abgerissen, beim einschalten, oder nachdem er seine Drehzahl schon erreicht hatte?
the motor has too much starting torque, if you can, add a soft start to the motor
I think that triangle supports are better to place in opposite side of the impeller's wings.
Eldobaz D'Shkandebal No, not really. They support the wings to be not pulled over. On the other side they wouldn't be nearly as strong and would also block the airflow.
Marius Hornberger Hmm, it depends on the direction of rotation. I thought that the impeller rotates clockwise and blows from center. If so, air slides over the front side of blade, there is zone of a high pressure and triangles prevent air to pass freely.
They blades are curved away from the rotation. If you look on it from the motor side, it runs clockwise. The blower sucks the air from the middle and blows it out the side. I did it the right way, otherwise it wouldn't really work.
now I understood, in this case everything is correct.
You should have used epoxy. Much stronger than glue. But great build, I am impressed!
alfredesquer Not really, but much more expensive. The glue didn't fail, but the wood.
Hi , how you know which way to let the inner leg or groove bend for spinning for suction.
1airgforce1 Always curved away from the direction of rotation for greater efficiency. Pretty hard to explain without a blackboard and some physics.
Thanks...Great videos
What is the ID of those bearings?
Good presentation.
+drail80s I don't know. 22mm outside, 8mm inside, 7mm thick
+Marius Hornberger I believe he meant "inner diameter" as the meaning of id, at least were i live!
Do the tools in your shop on a red plug use a single phase or three phase power.
+Thomas Workshop The big red plugs are 3-phase 380v
+Marius Hornberger dose every German home have 3 phase power.
no, but if not it can be upgraded.
Ich würde ja beim "Turbinenbau" im CAD auch die Belastungsanalyse durchführen? Das ist doch schon ziemlich weit im Maschinenbau, anstelle von Holzbau und Tischlern. Bei der Belastungsanalyse wird schon relativ früh klar, ob das Schaufelmaterial *dauerhaft* den Kräften und Vibrationen gewachsen ist. Die Beschleunigungskräfte beim Anfahren sind auch nicht so viel höher als beim Dauerbetrieb (oder doch?), ich denke nicht das die Masseträgheit durch eine plötzliche Spitzenlast hier wirklich einen Unterschied macht. Wenn das nicht am Anfang hält, hält es auch später nicht ... Glück gehabt, dass dich keines von den Schaufelbruchteilen erwischt hat beim Testlauf.
Anderenseits: hinterher ist *natürlich* jeder (hier) schlauer. Belastungsanalyse, pfff ... Und: selbst Ironman hatte seine Probleme mit Turbinenschaufeln beim Helicarrier ;-)
Schöne Arbeit.
was ist das für ein CAD Programm was du benutz?
Alex Reger SketchUp
danke :)
lots and lots work on that one
Nice work
Отличная работа!
Спасибо за видео и за идею!;-)
how did know that you needed to cut off the corners there?
I didn't know, that was just my design and it looked good for me.
Marius Hornberger Very interesting, excellent work
Thank you!
how did you make the vane pressing jig?
I just cut a curve with the radius I needed in a thick piece of wood on the bandsaw.
Aha! thanks, didn't think ti was that simple.
super project Marius.
Thank you
how many hp is the engine
how far did the fins fly?
I don't know, it happened so fast. But one hit the wall. Just imagine that 36cm rotor spinning at about half speed (1400 rpm) and a fin coming loose and you get the idea on how far it could fly.
What is the music in this video? I really like it!
9/10/'23: Is this impeller still working for you today? 😁✌🖖
please add more plades and do not blend but should , i repeat should be straight. the number of blades shall be 8 to 12
Excellent!
nicely done
Excellent... Cheers...
New subscriber... great video! more videos!
Thank you.
nicely methods..
Wow welldone bro..
👍
Bravo super boulot 👍
de cuantos hp es el motor que ocupaste?
+Juan Ziegler 3 hp
I wasn't surprised to see that MDF break. I knew they would keep breaking with only the bottom part glued in place. Maybe a real solid wood could have worked, but you need to understand that MDF while have it's pro's, will never be as strong as solid wood. You can never hold down a vane if MDF like that by a 1/4 " piece and exert force like that motor does, it's almost like it always has this certain brittle quality to it. Great build though, love your videos.
You should add a soft start to your motor to reduce the fores when start
👏👏👏👏rpm?
hola buena noche ,cordial saludo desde COLOMBIA , me podrías ayudar con los planos de este proyecto del recolector de polvo ?
@Marius Hornberger Hast du irgendwas mit @Matthias Wandel zu tun? Er hat doch auch vor einiger Zeit ein sehr änliches Projekt gehabt und seine Videos ähneln deinen sehr. Ich gucke deine Videos sehr gerne.
Weiter so.
(for no german speakers)
Do you know Matthias Wandel? He has build also a dust collector a long time ago and his videos are actually the same as yours. I really like to watch your videos.
+Steinblocksebi (I respond in English so everone can understand)
Not really. I watch his videos too, of course, and got some inspiration. But I had this dust collector built, before he made his one.
Nice
good ide
Beau travail!
Merci !
ничьтяк.еще бы по русски научился бы объяснять.спс
się chłop napracował, ale tak to chujowo zrobił, że nie mogę.... łopatki powinny być pod większym kątem, a wsporniki łopatek z drugiej strony...
+Piotr Dąbrowski Zgadzam się ale łopatki są z dobrej strony
εισαι πολυ καλος τεχνιτης
COMPRATE UNA ASPIRADORA ES MAS BARATO Y MAS EFICIENTE
Rev That dust collector ruclips.net/video/TnLjVFa4UWM/видео.htmlm55s
Vaaaav
Gute Anleitung.
Aber: Es gibt so unsagbar viele Anleitungen auf Englisch. Hier findet sich endlich mal ein intelligenter, deutscher Bastler der gerne sein Wissen weitergibt.
Aber auch hier leider wieder nur in Englisch.
Warum???????????
Weil die Reichweite einfach sehr viel größer ist. Schau dir mal meine Anleitung zu der Schleifvorrichtung für Drechselwerkzeuge an. Das englische hat 29000 Aufrufe und das deutsche nur 2600.
Mit anderen Worten, mehr Klicks - mehr Geld.
Schade!Marius Hornberger
Ja, das ist natürlich schön zusammengereimt. mehr Klicks - mehr Leuten geholfen, mehr Feedback und ja auch mehr Geld. Aber die meisten Leute interessiert ja nur Geld... ich glaube nicht, dass ich mich zu diesem Thema auch noch rechtfertigen muss.