Own a Manual Lathe with a DRO ? Try This for Faster Parts !!!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 окт 2024
- Coordinating lathe tools can be confusing, but once you understand what's going on in this video, you'll love the technique. Take a Look !!
Patreon Support: / joepie
Website: www.advancedin...
Web Store: www.advancedin...
Amazon Affiliate Links: NOTE, as an amazon affiliate I do earn a small royalty from sales linked here.
Blue Magic metal polish: amzn.to/3ENEj0T
B&L Eye Loupe: amzn.to/3TU89Vw
Indicol 178: amzn.to/3NycM4s
Generic: amzn.to/3QZ6xK3
Postage Scale: amzn.to/3oCxeY0
Going to need a nap and replay this again. Yes...I have more respect for my DRO...
I would have loved working across from you in a manual shop...50+ years ago...Carry on JOE!
Next time around !
I have been half-arse doing this on a simple part but never made a chart and screwed up a lot. Thanx for the boot in the keester. The next batch I make will be 100% per this video, and 10 bucks says I will cut my time (and scrap) in half.
You da man, Joe.
Good luck.
Thank you so much for your very clear introduction that gives big picture first then works down into detail. Very good communication makes this a pleasure to watch.
Hi Joe.
I've just implemented your process sheet for a small three of job, what a game changer thank you. From now on every lathe job that is more than one component I will spend five minutes developing the process sheet.
Benefits to me so far: 50% productivity improvement on batch parts, parts more repeatable, less to remember, less stress when I'm under price pressure, repeat orders have a simple archiving process, more fun when doing mundane batch jobs.
Reflecting on today, the real irony for me is:- we will pay a CNC programmer to do process thinking when we think we have a economic CNC batch! If we discipline ourselves to think process we inevitable increase our own economic batch size, awesome.
Thanks again
Alan
That's great to hear Alan. Good luck.
An add onto a yesterday day comment. Rex 95 and Mo-Max were my favorite when I could get my hands on either one. You might laugh at the following but while serving time as a railroad machinist apprentice, some of the old head machine men (as opposed to nut splitters working on erecting floor) told me that during the depression money was so tight that they couldn’t get even the Rex A series tool bits very often. So in a pinch they would find an old square file, grind the teeth off, then to the shape desired and use as necessary. You can imagine the cutting speed was not very high and calipers were the norm and as an apprentice you were expected to be able to read a half-a-64th on a scale! Keep up the nice work. Chris A. Retired but still making a few chips now and then.
I've actually done the file trick. They make good knives too.
As a hobby machinist, I’m so grateful that Joe takes time out of his paying work day to provide these invaluable lessons. I just put an X, Z DRO on my 13x40 Harrison lathe. A 40 pound hunk of dura bar is being whittled down to a solid tool post base presently. The absolute to incremental switch on my Bridgeport is becoming second nature. I can’t wait to index and catalogue all my quick change holders and get after projects. The process sheet will become another of my go to strategies thanks to Joe.
Grateful in Central Phoenix
Shawn
I normally just write it down on a pad and keep it close by, but the word document was much clearer for this video. Good luck.
I have been struggling to learn how to use ABS & INC on my DRO. It never really made sense to me on how they work together….. Until I watched this video! It was like a lightbulb went off! Great Video Joe
Glad it was helpful!
Your a great teacher! I’m a CNC guy, ~20 years. I’m so glad I understood what you were doing and the procedure and concept using absolute and incremental. The matter you were teaching was excellent, and didn’t warrant seeing micrometer and also a blade micrometer. That was understood. Video was also entertaining and really had my brain squirming to stay with the thought process. Thank You from New Hampshire.
Excellent. I'm glad you hung in. Its a good philosophy for multiple parts.
altough I am a novice this was a real eyeopener , Will for sure watch the video multiple times to really get it into my mind
thank you for all the awesome videos Joe,
regards from sweden //Ken
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love how my confusion transitions to comprehension by the end of the video, as usual this was very informative and efficient, I have learned so much from your videos Joe, your awesome!! I wish you had a school for machinists because I'd DEFINITELY be a student there! Thank you again for another great video!...
I'm glad it was helpful and I hope it make things easier going forward !
Joe. I appreciate your work. You have been the most influential machine shop teacher I have had and we've never met. Can wait for the horizontal mill series.
Thanks for all your efforts. I wish you well.
Thank you very much. That's a rewarding and flattering compliment.
I did a process sheet when I was making a bunch of bushings. I didn’t do it quite like you did but the results from it were the same. I had someone in the shop and they were watching me watch the dro and not the part and were totally amazed the parts were coming out exactly like the print. Got my pallet a couple weeks ago and love it your quality is top notch.
Thank you very much. Enjoy the pallet. :)
Really enjoyed this one. Some decades ago, teaching and researching in machine tool design, nowadays just a hobbyist. You're much better at teaching than I ever was. Like very much that you have chosen to show it in one axis only. Made it much easier to understand. Will use your wisdom playing with the lathe.
Glad you enjoyed it! Try it out. You'll like it.
Super informative video Joe. Good job.
I had to make 9 finials like this out of 8mm brass rod. Boy, this would have sped things up. Many thanks.
The first piece is always the longest any ways, so why not go the extra mile and map the moves. Its a huge time saver.
Ha! Thanks for being a good sport about the cardboard tube Joe. I usually use a little larger tube, but that's the one that was laying on the lathe tools cart when I thought to send it to you. So much stock comes in cardboard tubes I always have some laying around. I do usually go past the tool and around the part a little more with the tube, but I recognize you were also positioning for the camera. I also don't worry about catching chips in the tube. They dump out with the parts just fine. As you know sometimes the part will flip up and fall on the other side of the tool. Not often, but its still a pain to go hunt for it in the chip tray when they do.
Thanks for the gift. It was a perfect opportunity to use and show it.
Thank you Joe! What a timely video for me, was doing a small batch of parts on my mill for my home machine shop and could not figure out how to effectively use the ABS and INC functions on my import DRO, even after reading the manual 57 times. Watching your video one gave me that “Aha!” moment
Excellent.
Joe Pie is the machinist I always wanted to be. I sure hope there’s a few youngsters there picking up what he’s putting down.
Thanks. I truly hope so too.
It took until 26:26 to realize that what you're "making" isn't the part; rather it's THE PROCESS SHEET that is the real project at this step. You're making your instruction set to be able to efficiently make more parts. Makes total sense now. 👍
About 15 minutes in, I’m glancing at the comments thinking I’m stupid. As soon as I read yours, the lightbulb came on! The part is irrelevant, it’s the process sheet! Now I’m gonna have to watch it again. Thanks Man!
Thanks, Joe! I put a 2-axis DRO on my lathe. The obvious exercise for me is to extrapolate those techniques to that second axis. The key seems to be stopping the machine with the tool in the cut so you can read and record the position. Really great, fundamental stuff that will help my approach tremendously. Thanks, as always.
Just be aware that that method will not be advisable with insert tooling when turning anything as strong or stronger than mild steel. Partly because inserts are not sharp, and mainly because they are brittle, stopping the spindle before you withdraw almost always takes a nibble out of the edge as the rotation comes to a halt and the cutting force suddenly ramps up. This is so even when you have a dwell period where the tool does not move; there's almost always enough give or spring in the system that there is still enough residual pressure to keep the cutting tip engaged in the work.
I should have mentioned that I rarely stop a tool while in contact with the work piece. It jeopardizes the tool and will probably leave a mark on the part.
Hi Joe, Great video! I love instructions that I can actually use. Have a great day. Bob
thanks Bob. You as well.
Good to see you again,Joe.I hope.Thank you.
Its good to have the opportunity to get back with you all ( Y'all).
Thank you Joe. Was keeping the numbers in my head. Didn't consider a process sheet.
I got lost going back and forth. Showing it on a drawing would have helped me understand. Thanks for the hard work.
Glad it helped!
I wish I had your videos 40 years ago for teaching math
You do it way better than my math teachers ever did
Thank you.
Thanks Joe, it’s not difficult, as ever very well explained. That was the final push for me to put a DRO on my Smart & Brown. I have to say your technical videos are pure gold, every one is a nugget.
Thanks. I'm happy to pass them on.
Whoof.
I think I'll come back and try again after another cup of coffee.
Thanks for the detailed lesson, Joe
It would be more efficient to drink the coffee while watching for the second time. :)
@@joepie221No, I'm gonna need full alertness from the get-go!
Nice lessons!
They do require a quick-change toolpost where tools can be changed with repeatable positions.
This is a great lesson - appreciate the detailed explanation - it makes production style turning a lot less of a chore. Great to see you posting again!
Good to have the time.
nice. Thanks for the Info. as a hobbyist, I can take as long as I want on a part, but it's great to see what a professional does to optimize the order of operations and write them down on a process sheet. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching!
Great rundown on the incremental and absolute features of the DRO and how to use them effectively.
Incremental is not utilized as often as absolute. Its a great helper function depending on the dimensioning scheme.
Another chapter of the practical useful tips. Thnak you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent lesson Joe, will be put to use immediately in the shop! For quick projects we often have to make “just a few more than one” or spares and this technique will come in real handy. Thank You again for sharing your knowledge!
Once it become second nature, the first part will still be the longest, but not like during the learning curve. It works well for multiple parts.
Thanks Joe, thanks very much for this gem, yes it takes a minute to get in your head but the benefits are golden when making multiple parts, thank you for your time and patience.
My pleasure!
Thank you Sir for taking the time to explain that. Is greatly appreciated.
Welcome.
Thanks Joe, definitely going to re-watch.
Fascinating and instructive. Thanks Joe.
Glad you enjoyed it
When one thinks about it, it makes perfect sense. I tend to label as x/y moves, but I also tend to make one offs or multiple simple parts such as all the studs and nuts for my 10v Stuart.
Best example of how to use a dro I have ever been shown I'm retired now but when I was taught how to run multiple parts there were no dros so I learned the pad and paper method so cave man style compared to your version I still don't have a dro on my atlas lathe that is older than me but I been thinking about buying one even more now after watching your video I could make a form tool and a shave tool for a screw machine set it up and drop one off every 7 or 8 seconds on a 1inch multi thanks for sharing your knowledge with us don't work no more but still like to learn anything that catches my interest you are a very good machinist and a better teacher something that you hardly see anymore thanks
Thanks for the compliment.
Great information, could you please show more of this on the mill. Love the theory behind it all. Thanks again for sharing your incredible knowledge of the trade.
I have several mill videos showing how to ignore the backlash, or change up cutting sequence to assure accuracy. Look through the playlists.
@@joepie221 well that’s just great isn’t it 🥴
Do you have any idea how many of your videos I’m going to have to watch to find
that info. I’m choking on my own RAAAGE.
Love your work mate.
Clear as mud,,, will come back to watch and take notes after the chemo gets out of my foggy brain 😞. Not having a DRO on my lathe and selling it may not make since, but this is an instructional exercise to sharpen the mind 🤔🤪.
FINALLY! I now understand how to use incremental. My head is spinning. But, I’ll watch the video several times to grasp it all. Thanks, Joe
They are actually easy to understand and use if someone takes the time to really explain the difference. Which one to use is normally driven by the dimensioning scheme on the print. If all features are dimensioned from the face of the part, all moves are probably absolute. If the fetures are dimensioned from each other along the length of the part, those would ( could) be incremental. The good thing is, once you zero the absolute and go to incremental, the absolute zero doesn't change. Unless of course you face the part off. Easy example: You are standing still in a snow covered field. That is absolute zero. It can also be incremental zero. Now zero the incremental scale and take a step. You have now moved 'x' in absolute from your starting position and 'xx' from your previous location. When you take your second step, the incremental value is the distance from your first step to the second. The absolute value is how far you are from where you started.
thank you for taking the time to show how to take the time to do it quicker
......clear as mud on my part, but Joe, keep posting please
try it a few times. The mud will clear.
Stunning! This applies to the result, and to your skill as a teacher to break this down into manageable pieces that can be understood. I'm still manual and about 280 GBP shy of going digital, but at least I know what I'm missing!
Very clever.
Essentially the numbers you are finding are a combination of tool offset and part geometry. If you had a fancy dro with tool offset capability you could do this separately, but this is a brilliant method for the rest of us mere mortals with simpler dro's (so long as you use insert tooling or don't disturb a tool offset by resharpening the tool part way through the production run).
Thanks Joe
That Mr Pie is valuable stuff sir. I have used the incremental function on the mill many times. It never occurred to me to use it on the lathe. Only god knows why! Thanks Brother.
Happy days! I was thinking it was a while since Joe had posted. This is great - I seldom use absolute and incremental but now I know how powerful it can be.
Very helpful.
that was good thanks Joe, maybe some more of these to reinforce when you have batch runs :) appreciate it thanks again
Great video, Joe! ! ! I love all of your content, but this particular video is one of my favorites for sure. Thank you for doing what you do, you're awesome!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks Sir, I love the spider on the wall below your flags
He gets strategically place in my videos from time to time. Amazing how many people never see it.
@@joepie221 I try and check every work shop layout it is very important to work with safety in mind all the time.
Very cool. The setup for the repeatable chamfers is worth it alone!
Time to get a DRO! I need to use a similar sheet on my old manual lathes or I’ll screw up. Another very informative video, thanks
As stated on Rowan and Martins Laugh In, 'very interesting '. Thanks Joe for another great tutorial. Regards from Wales
I wonder if Artie Johnson ever finished that cigarette. But....didn't he occasionally finish that line with "but stupid"
Indeed he did but I did not think it appropriate to add that Joe. It just wouldn't be right!@@joepie221
Great process to use the absolute/incremental modes. Made perfect sense! Hey, that's a pretty big wolf spider hanging out on your back wall!
wmk
Spider.....what spider? :)
Thanks joe brilliant tutorial as always
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
This is a great help for me as I move from hobby work to side hustle! Thank you very much sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial
Thank you!
Super cool! I did install a Z-axis DRO scale on my lathe. This will take some practice. Thank you so much for your great machining content. I have learned so much from your videos. Cheers!
Thank you.
You are the Master! Emulating a CNC program is brilliant.
Thanks.
Outstanding video as usual, always a treat to be exposed to your wisdom and experience. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Nicely done!
Great video as always, thanks Joe!!!
Hope to see more content you have some of the best out there.
Any chance I could get an experienced machinist such as yourself to comment on the ancient vases currently being scanned? There has been a challenge to replicate one out of any material.
Shoot me a link.
I tried leaving one in the comment didn’t work.
If you search vase scan project it will come up. Ben was on the Danny Jones podcast recently they talk about them for a good 40 min.
Thanks Joe great tip
Good to see you back blessings
Back at ya !
Great explanation .I will surely will make this work one my next project .
thanks Joe
Thank you Joe, I will watch again. Awesome game plan.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent video. My lathe is near-identical to yours and has a two-axis Newall Sapphire DRO that's now 41 years old. One day I'm going to swap the DRO for one with a tool library, but that old clunker is still hanging in there. I'm joining the Dark Side soon, bought a new Syil X5 CNC, but the Bridgeport and Colchester are definitely staying
Hard to comprehend but I just like watching you work cause you are definitely a pro
Thanks.
Great video. I have just the exact project to apply this. Thanks Joe.
Very good Joe, I like. Use what you've got before reaching for a CNC lathe you don't have.
Very true!
hey Joe Pie is back !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yay !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
unloosen your belt and sit down to watch !!
Thanks. Your enthusiasm is much appreciated.
Great one. Now all i need is a good lathe and a digital readout.... 😂👍👍👍
minor detail. :)
Fantastic video. How perfect is this for making that chess set l Long delayed because of the boredom of turning so many identical pieces. Thanks Joe. So many things around my hobby machine shop inspired by you and now a shaped cardboard tube added to my tool drawers
Perfect application.
Excellent tutorial!!
Thanks.
That was a lot to take in but I understand the reason for doing it that way. Thanks Joe!
Only the first part is time consuming.
i recently added a DRO to my lathe and can now hit my numbers without a problem and much faster as well since I don't have to mic the part so many times to make sure I'm on track. I did however, find that using a DRO on a lathe is not like using one on a mill. I'm finding that working out all of the SDM numbers and entering them into the DRO is extremely time consuming and for me, a waste of time. I'm trying to workout a better system, and this video will help. A lot. Thanks!
good video Mr Joe Pie,,thanks for your time
You bet
Spot on. Did similar with when making parts for missiles
Very Impressive. Thanks 👍👌
Great demo on how to use ABS/INC ! Especially for those with an older basic DRO with no tool library( or limited tool library ). Nice meeting you last week. I keep a small dry erase board next to my lathe/mill for jotting down DRO settings. Your process sheet would be mo' better for repeat parts/production.👍
Frickin' brilliant Joe! I say we call MNC....... manual numeric control.
Enhanced by the use of an eyecrometer too. :)
Wish I had lathe DRO properly - but get the idea. Thanks for the demo Joe :)
You bet
I have been using a version of that method for years. I make lots of parts close to the chuck. I use a 2" travel dial indicator as I do not have a DRO. The dial is zeroed on the right end of the part. I make notes of the dial reading for the features of the part maintaining the zero for the first tool. I find it easier to use the analog dial to either stop the power feed or move to the next location. The dial provides better feedback that is easier to use as opposed to watching a set of DRO numbers change.
I used a trav-a-dial for years. Once you get used to them, they are fantastic.
I've watched this 3 times and I'm still lost! I think that I'll go out that I'll go outside and play in the mud. Maybe I can handle that!
Wow... Once I finally figured out, that the part you were making, was only a "widget"... only then, did I understand the concept you were conveying. It just took a while for the old 80 year old brain to "get it". Good info. Now.... My brain is hurting....!
Cooler weather here in Texas today, time to get back in the shop.....!
I started with the mill where from plan I would end up working from a set of co ordinates, on the lathe I use basically the same system as your doing except I have a window directly behind and I use that like a white board instead of a paper copy. It saves a lot of time and "spares".
I like it.
Thanks for a long lesson. Could you make more movies like this to explain you thought process.
There are many scattered amongst my video catalog. I try to incorporate philosophy ( order of operations ) in every one.
Love your work Joe.
Thank you!
Thanks for watching.
Very nice! Now I'm going to take a piece of 1/2 6061 and use your process numbers on my lathe and see what happens.
The relationship between tools will have to match mine for the numbers to work for you. Play around with it. It really sinks in when you are pushing the buttons and turning the dials.
I assume I'm going to have to do some scaling to adjust for machine and tool sizes. We'll see this afternoon. 😊
How'd it go?
It went well. Other than adjusting for tool widths, it worked perfectly. I have an X axis DRO, so hitting depths was not a problem. I even threw the O ring on. Now it's just sitting on top of a workbench storage cabinet. A proud reminder. Who knows? Someone at a local car repair shop may need just this part. 😅
great stuff thanks and yes i am out the back baking cookies with the rest of the class . Joe one thing is on your plain there is no over all diameter . i was finding it hard to follow till you made the part then showed the diameter thanks as all ways Cheers.
Your small cheat sheet can be as involved as you want. I do normally add all relevant features.
Thanks for such a Great lesson. I also have been struggling learning ab / Inc. This finally makes sense. Clouds have parted and once again I'm wondering why it seemed so hard to understand a relatively easy process. ( probably cause I'm RUclips taught) haha. Thanks again
Really good to know!! Thanks for sharing!
Thank You.
All new to me, but nice to see you use h.s. & alloy steel tool bits. Use what have for short runs. Thanks.
I have a lot of very useful HSS tools. I lean towards the cobalt ones.
Pretty interesting way of logging offsets.. I like it.
Thanks 👍
Excellent lesson Joe. One other thing, 12.7mm is _exactly_ 1/2"! To quote from wikipedia "In 1930, the British Standards Institution adopted an inch of exactly 25.4 mm. The American Standards Association followed suit in 1933." As an Englishman it pains me that they decided to define an inch in relation to the metric system!
Instead you should do the same, and embrace the metric system...
They didn't. They stated that one imperial inch was equal to 25.4mm. They defined the metric system in terms of imperial inches, not the other way around.
@@Thelemorf I use the metric system most of the time! I also use the Imperial system. I'm "bilingual"! I like both.
Tool offsets FTW😁. I really ought to install a DRO on my machine.
I like the paper towel tube part catcher. I sometimes use a small Akro-Bin set on the cross-slide, but this seems better.
yes, and converted from each tool offset to a single scale to read... recorded on a process sheet. Optimized order of operations. neat.
I got that from a viewer. I'll have to post a link to his channel in the video description. Nice job modifying your mini pallet !!
Always learning is the name of the game
Since your carriage cross slide does not have DRO reading, you didn’t discuss backlash so your machine must be tight, most home hobby machines are worn and the backlash would present a problem…..am I correct in my thinking??? DRO in both directions who cares about the machine’s backlash ….ENJOYED!!!!!
Greetings chuck. backlash on my cross slide does exist ( barely ) but all my moves are away from me, so it never comes into play. Thanks for checking in.
@@joepie221 YUP!!! you the man as that is the answer I was taught by Chui (same as the mill), taught and remember? are two different subjects and your reply hoping others read these comments will learn and REMEMBER…LOL
Joe, not sure if anyone has already mentioned this, but you can get neutral density filters for your camera to stop it down more - you can then use brighter lights and not wash out th4e camera sensor.
Great technique - once I get my DRO, I'll give this a try. How do you deal with backlash on the cross-slide dial settings?
Backlash doesn't come into play if the dial movements are always in the clockwise direction.
Interesting tutorial. Many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it