Hi Ladies; Thank you for such informative video. I was wondering if you could help me answering a question related to kick wax. My next door neighbour apparently got a spray form of kick wax. And the person at the store told her this would cover pretty much all snow conditions. So i was wondering why on earth we avid skiers would bother with using different types of hard waxes when you can actually get a spray kick wax that does the job for everything?? Is there a difference between the two? I have seen spray kick wax that goes from like -2 to -15 degrees Celcius. But is this too good to be true? Please help! Thanks!
Spray kickwax is pretty convenient! It does the trick in many conditions, but like any wax, isn’t perfect for everything. Spray wax tends to go on really thin, so it can work really well as a binder (your first layer of wax that helps the wax-of-the-day stick on top. If you apply a layer of binder, make sure to let it cool before you apply your next layer). Our suggestion is to try it out, and add it to your wax supply for when you are in a rush or need that extra thin layer!
Your friend probably has something like this (www.swixsport.com/en/wax/kick-wax/grip-spray/v40lc-blue-grip-spray-2-15c-70ml/?code=7045951874020). It's the relatively new spray version of Swix's traditional V30 Blue wax (www.swixsport.com/en/wax/kick-wax/hard-wax/v30-blue-hardwax--2-10c-43g/?code=7045950000208). As an aerosol it can be quicker to apply, but the temperature range application is still the same as the regular V30 (down to -15C for transformed snow, up to -2C for new snow). For transformed snow in the warmer ranges, you're likely going to need a warmer wax whether you use spray or traditional. Hope that helps.
Good question. The answer is mostly no. The more important thing is that you wax in an area with good ventilation (especially when using an iron or removing wax with solvent). For many people this is a garage or a space with windows to the outside, making it a chilly environment. However, for kick-waxing it will be easiest for you to cork-in the wax if you wax before heading outside especially if the temps are frigid. Cold wax = hard to spread. But oftentimes we find ourselves waxing on the side of the trail anyway if our first wax selection wasn't working up to our liking.
Hi Federico, we recommend a synthetic cork because it creates better friction with the wax and so generates more warmth more quickly. It therefore makes it easier to spread, rather than smear, the wax. Natural corks can be used if you prefer to keep it old school and or avoid petroleum-based products, but are mostly sold in stores for their use in spreading fluoro-powders for race-waxing. We recommend generally staying away from fluoros, especially for training and low-key racing, because of their negative environmental impact.
@@Craftsbury thanks! As a newbie this is really helpful 🙂 unfortunately I already bought a natural one as I did not know the difference and I picked randomly. I will keep this in mind for my next buy
Hi Maureen, good question. Your ridged skis are likely a type of "fish scales" and should not need kick wax. If you're struggling to get kick, you can try applying some kick wax as we've demonstrated, but the issue could come down to ski fit (it's possible that the skis may be too stiff). To maintain the bases it is helpful to glide wax the glide zones occasionally. This is the smooth part of your ski at the tips and tails. Check out our Intro to Glide Waxing video here (ruclips.net/video/ogIjhpiKNDo/видео.html).
Well done ladies - very informative and enjoyable to watch
Great vid. Thankfully I found this one. I’ve watched others and this is the best I’ve see. Cheers
Thank you showing how to open the can / tube of kick wax!
This is surprisingly hard to figure out for this beginner!
(At 3:29)
Great info, thanks!
Hi Ladies; Thank you for such informative video. I was wondering if you could help me answering a question related to kick wax. My next door neighbour apparently got a spray form of kick wax. And the person at the store told her this would cover pretty much all snow conditions. So i was wondering why on earth we avid skiers would bother with using different types of hard waxes when you can actually get a spray kick wax that does the job for everything?? Is there a difference between the two? I have seen spray kick wax that goes from like -2 to -15 degrees Celcius. But is this too good to be true? Please help! Thanks!
Spray kickwax is pretty convenient! It does the trick in many conditions, but like any wax, isn’t perfect for everything. Spray wax tends to go on really thin, so it can work really well as a binder (your first layer of wax that helps the wax-of-the-day stick on top. If you apply a layer of binder, make sure to let it cool before you apply your next layer). Our suggestion is to try it out, and add it to your wax supply for when you are in a rush or need that extra thin layer!
Your friend probably has something like this (www.swixsport.com/en/wax/kick-wax/grip-spray/v40lc-blue-grip-spray-2-15c-70ml/?code=7045951874020). It's the relatively new spray version of Swix's traditional V30 Blue wax (www.swixsport.com/en/wax/kick-wax/hard-wax/v30-blue-hardwax--2-10c-43g/?code=7045950000208). As an aerosol it can be quicker to apply, but the temperature range application is still the same as the regular V30 (down to -15C for transformed snow, up to -2C for new snow). For transformed snow in the warmer ranges, you're likely going to need a warmer wax whether you use spray or traditional. Hope that helps.
@@Craftsbury Got it. Thank you so much for the clarification . Really appreciate your help. Greetings from Quebec, Canada!
Margie! Greetings from Simley Nordic.
Does it make a difference whether the ski and wax are cold or warm? You are wearing jackets so I'm thinking you are in a cool/cold workspace.
Good question. The answer is mostly no. The more important thing is that you wax in an area with good ventilation (especially when using an iron or removing wax with solvent). For many people this is a garage or a space with windows to the outside, making it a chilly environment.
However, for kick-waxing it will be easiest for you to cork-in the wax if you wax before heading outside especially if the temps are frigid. Cold wax = hard to spread. But oftentimes we find ourselves waxing on the side of the trail anyway if our first wax selection wasn't working up to our liking.
Thanks for the video! Why do you recommend a synthetic cork as opposed to a natural one?
Hi Federico, we recommend a synthetic cork because it creates better friction with the wax and so generates more warmth more quickly. It therefore makes it easier to spread, rather than smear, the wax. Natural corks can be used if you prefer to keep it old school and or avoid petroleum-based products, but are mostly sold in stores for their use in spreading fluoro-powders for race-waxing. We recommend generally staying away from fluoros, especially for training and low-key racing, because of their negative environmental impact.
@@Craftsbury thanks! As a newbie this is really helpful 🙂 unfortunately I already bought a natural one as I did not know the difference and I picked randomly. I will keep this in mind for my next buy
My kick zone has ridges. How do I go about waxing with this type of ski?
Hi Maureen, good question.
Your ridged skis are likely a type of "fish scales" and should not need kick wax. If you're struggling to get kick, you can try applying some kick wax as we've demonstrated, but the issue could come down to ski fit (it's possible that the skis may be too stiff).
To maintain the bases it is helpful to glide wax the glide zones occasionally. This is the smooth part of your ski at the tips and tails. Check out our Intro to Glide Waxing video here (ruclips.net/video/ogIjhpiKNDo/видео.html).