Ford Y Block Basic Short Block Assembly Tips: Part 2

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  • Опубликовано: 17 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 17

  • @norbertneumann7047
    @norbertneumann7047 Год назад +3

    Hello from Germany, my english isn´t the best, but what I´m see, what you show, is very helpful. I rebuild at this time my 1955 Mercury Montclair engine. I follow you ...

  • @indyme2
    @indyme2 Год назад +3

    Enjoying this series.

  • @trailfreekgarage
    @trailfreekgarage Год назад +5

    Thanks for these vids! Im new to Yblocks and these help out a lot!

  • @chuckschreiber2365
    @chuckschreiber2365 Год назад +4

    Great videos, thanks!

  • @jessejohnson159
    @jessejohnson159 Год назад +2

    As always, great Y-Block info John!

  • @jondalrymple6171
    @jondalrymple6171 Год назад +4

    Thanks John for this great tips, I now have enough parts for a 3i2 build and will follow your advice
    Jon

  • @vitorin70
    @vitorin70 Год назад +2

    Great Video John,
    thank you for sharing the information,
    we talked a while ago about these connecting rods, I'm from Brazil and I'm reassembling my y-block turbo ( broken connecting rods heheuheah)
    I admired your work before, now you have a subscriber!

  • @Mike62501
    @Mike62501 Год назад +2

    You know the watchers should realize the Y block is really a 427 if you could have them side by side. Nice finish on journals!!! ❤

  • @danontherun5685
    @danontherun5685 Год назад +1

    My engine builder suggested 292 blocks with 312 crank/rods/pistons due to possible cracks with 312 larger bearings. So I have two 292 engines that configuration. Also have a real 312 engine that was crack checked first. All with HE pistons from John. One is single carb, one dual carb and one supercharged with Johns intake (pressure limited to 5 PSI for HE pistons) and all built to happily spin 5500 (w/91 oct). All tire dyno tuned and many years street rod use no problem, and by no problem I mean oil leaks keep bottoms of cars from rusting no problem no matter how carefully I sealed the engines. Retired aerospace machinist so careful is a thing. Suggest dyno tuning for HE pistons and best power gain always from quality long tube headers but they ain't easy to find.

  • @matthewkirkham8234
    @matthewkirkham8234 Год назад +4

    Hello...my 239 y block has the same 2 grooves in the rear where the rear seal is located. Why is there 2 grooves?

    • @HotRodReverend
      @HotRodReverend Год назад +3

      One groove is for the "throw" at the rear of the crank. Essentially this is a ridge that runs the circumference of the crank to "throw the oil off" so to speak. The other groove in the block is for your seal.

    • @matthewkirkham8234
      @matthewkirkham8234 Год назад +2

      @@HotRodReverend thank you so much for the clarification.

  • @robskaaden3792
    @robskaaden3792 Месяц назад

    What rear main seal kit for a 368 y block.

  • @robskaaden3792
    @robskaaden3792 Месяц назад

    Is building a 368 the same procedure?

  • @Frank289100
    @Frank289100 Год назад +1

    QUESTION: WHY DID FORD MUSHROOM THE LIFTERS WHERE THEY GO IN FROM THE BOTTOM?

    • @johnrebus1641
      @johnrebus1641 Год назад +1

      This was fairly normal design for lifters in the pre-hydraulic era & even early hydraulic lifters in Cadillac's & Packard's looked similar. The flat bottom allows plenty of contact area with the cam lobe while the skinny shank keeps the lifter bore size down, saving space, material & probably creates less friction than a big diameter shank. Don't forget this was one of Ford USA's first modern / post war engines, so some aspects are bound to be a bit dated or odd ....like the inlet ports!

    • @Frank289100
      @Frank289100 Год назад

      @@johnrebus1641 THANKS YOU FOR THE INFORMATION.