Tony and Chelsea......love your posts. I will need to check out the park since I live in CT. Do you offer any in-person photo shoots that I could attend?
wow. so I have been watching you two for a year now. I finally just made it across this video because I'm in a pickle that I haven't had since starting photography. you two are amazing but the real amazing thing is how you have become comfortable in front of the camera. youre so more relaxed and personal in the newer videos. reguardless the info in this video is timeless. thanks a lot
There is so much content and these guys are so helpful and try so hard to educate beginner photographers... Painful to watch comments about Chelsea's looks. She's the man's wife for crying out loud. Have some respect people!
Ah, glad you found it! Yeah, we're not yet in any bookstores, but you can buy it on Amazon, Kindle, Google Play, and Nook. We hope to expand to bookstores soon.
Your pictures can NEVER be bad, because, Chelsea is Gorgeous!! Your equipment is too TOP NOTCH! And you are a Professional photographer with Tremendous SKILLS
Hey, thanks for writing. Those are the same shots I took during the video (though I snapped a handful each time and picked the best). You're right though, shadows look WAY better than sunlight. The shot in the sun (at 2:05) is at 1/500th, f/2.8, ISO 100. The shot in the shadow (2:35) is at 1/180, f/2.8, ISO 100. I used autoexposure, and apparently the shadow was about 1.5 stops darker than the direct light. If you look, the background does get brighter, but it also changes because she moved.
The 85mm f1.8 or a 70-200 f2.8. Tamron makes an excellent, inexpensive model. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (links in the descriptions) for complete details about portrait equipment and techniques.
Good question. It always requires a bit of trial and error, but for fill flash outdoors, normally I start with -1.5 stops (using ETTL), take a shot, and then adjust as needed.
On-camera flash with ETTL. Indoors, with low white ceilings, I'll do a bounce flash with the built-in white card. Outdoors I'll either point the flash directly toward the subject, or I'll put a small softbox on my flash. Chapters 3 and 6 in my book have some good information on flash.
Yes, all of the above. The flash will provide similar effect in any of those modes. Check Chapters 3 and 4 of my book (link in the description) for more detail.
200mm, f/2.8, ISO 100, aperture priority (so shutter speed set automatically). If required, I used high speed sync on the flash. i would only need to use an ND filter if my camera couldn't use a fast enough shutter speed, or if I didn't have high-speed sync. More info in Chapters 3, 4, and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography.
I was with you until you used the flash... Nobody wants white dots dead centre in their pupils. In my opinion it looks way better to use a reflector below, for catchlights and filling in shadows.
Agreed. We have many detailed lighting videos, and entire chapters in Stunning Digital Photography dedicated to more complex lighting setups. This video is just intended to give people a quick way to improve shots with nothing but an on-camera flash.
***** He's introducing the flash just to get the catchlight ("white dots") so that would be ridiculous. Also, removing catchlights in post looks VERY unnatural. Your model can hold a reflector herself in most situations on a tight crop like this. I'd go for any option over the "flash it to bits & fix it in post" attitude, even if that means having to pay an assistant.
***** You're absolutely right, I'm a full-time photographer so I might look at things quite differently than a hobbyist. Though I thought I'd help people who are new to photography by stating a bit of my own vision on things like this situation. My opinion is just as valid as anyone else's, so do with it as you wish. I'm not dictating anything, experiment as you wish.
***** Golly, gee whiz Sabine ... Tony is talking to me and not the professionals who are not watching this tutorial. Oh why do I bother??!! Anyhow Tony .. keep the good info coming.
I'd get a 70-200 f2.8. Tamron, Sigma, and Canon all have good models. The more expensive models are sharper and overall better, but the lower-end models (the Tamron is only $750) get the job done, too. I do recommend the 85mm f1.8 for people on lower budgets, but if you have the cash for the 85 1.2, I'd definitely steer you toward a zoom instead. F/2.8 is generally plenty to blur the background nicely, and the zoom really makes it easy to recompose between headshots, body shots, etc.
Aperture priority, f/2.8 and 200mm for background blur. I dial in -1 or -1.5 stops of flash exposure compensation to add a catchlights without washing out the face. ISO 100 whenever I have enough light. I let the camera determine the shutter speed. As long as it's above 1/60th, there won't be any camera shake (thanks to IS) or motion blur. The camera settings are really the least important part of all this. Lighting, composition, posing, hair, makeup, expression, etc. are all more critical.
Remember guys, all of your problems can be solved simply by turning your flash on. World hunger? No biggie. War on terror? Easy peasy! Providing fill light for a portrait photo? Sure it can do that I guess, but a waste of potential.
Hi, I discuss portrait equipment and techniques in detail in Chapter 6 of my book (links in the description) but the lens I'm using is the Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS II. I recommend everyone get a 70-200 f2.8, but you can find cheaper versions made by Tamron and Sigma. For even less, try an 85mm f1.8.
Tony, I love your videos but I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one. The photo of Chelsea in the sun, just outside of the pergola offered contrast and looked good. The others were dead flat 1:1 and looked rather lifeless. Keep up the good work. I will continue to tune in. Thanks.
I own a D5100 too, and I've gotta say the manager pulled a fast one on you when he said the kit lens would actually be great for portraits. I love portrait photography, and after doing a lot and a lot of research I ended up buying the NIKKOR AF-S 50mm f/1.8G. This one is a lightweight prime lens, isn't too heavy on the wallet and most importantly- produces outstanding portraits with minimal distortion. If you have a bigger budget you can also try a zoom VR lens for better bokeh and versatility.
Sorry, just saw this comment. The 70-200 f/2.8 is my portrait lens, and I really can't imagine needing anything other than a standard kit lens for group or wide angle shots. I have a video about lenses on my short list, so look for it soon. I haven't made a video about the menu system on the 5D3, but I should. Thanks for the idea. Mine is in the shop now, but I'll make it when it comes back.
I like the 430EX. It has bounce, ETTL, and plenty of power for portraits, and it's a good price. If you decide to upgrade later, you can still use it as a second flash. Check eBay for used prices and save yourself a few bucks.
That will work, but you need a portrait lens to get that nice background blur. I use a 70-200 f/2.8, or you could get an 85mm f/1.8 to get a similar effect a little cheaper. Your flash is fine; I just use -1.5 to -.5 stops flash exposure compensation. I cover using fill flash in Chapter 3 of my book Stunning Digital Photography and other details of portraiture in Chapter 6 (link in the description). The video is really just to supplement the book.
In the studio you don't need to worry about background blur, so I usually shoot at f/8 or f/11. Basically I adjust the aperture to get the exposure I need with the studio lights, while shooting at ISO 100. Chapter 6 has lots of info about this :). You can buy the book directly from us using the third link in the description of the video, worldwide.
Check out the Sigma 70-200 with OS (their version of IS) for $1300, or the Tamron model without IS for $770. If you don't get IS, you just have to be careful to keep your shutter speed high enough to avoid camera shake, which often means using a higher ISO than you would otherwise need, which adds a bit of noise. So, the purpose of IS is really to reduce noise.
Oh, I use evaluative metering for everything. I didn't have to apply any EC; the standard exposure was fine. I did adjust the flash exposure compensation down about 1.5 stops. Thanks for buying the book!! You'll find lots of good information about metering, lighting, and portraits in Chapters 3, 4, and 6.
For the lighting, yes, any camera will do. He specifically asked about the bokeh, though, and if you want as much blur as I showed in that video, you'd need to be full frame and at 200mm f/2.8.
I start with ETTL, -1.5 stops, and adjust from there. Check Chapters 3, 4, and 6 in my book (links in the description) for detailed information about exposure, flash, and portraiture.
Hi, Angel. If you have my book, go to the private Stunning Digital Photography Readers group on Facebook, where you can download the Flash Buyer's Guide with all the info you need. You can find examples of different flash modifiers in Chapter 4, and Chapter 6 is dedicated to portrait techniques.
200mm (on a full frame camera) and f/2.8 to blur the background. I do use TTL, and usually adjust the output down 1.5 to 2.5 stops so it's not overpowering. You can't simply use those settings, though, because lighting conditions and even skin tone vary and you probably have different equipment. Instead, you should build an understanding of how they impact your photos and practice. Read through Chapters 3 and 6 in my book, Stunning Digital Photography, for more info (link in the description).
Be sure to read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description) to understand the factors that create the short depth-of-field you're looking for. Unfortunately the Sony NEX-F3 really isn't up for the job because it has a small sensor and doesn't have any available portrait lenses. I'd push you towards a Canon or Nikon full frame and a 70-200 f/2.8. In this video I'm using a Canon 5D Mark II and the Canon 70-200 f/2.8, but you could buy the Tamron 70-200.
I usually use aperture priority for portraits, and everything that's not a fast-moving subject. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in my book (Stunning Digital Photography, link in the description) for detailed information and more videos...
I'd start with an ETTL flash, like the YongNuo 468EX-II. The challenge with the 560 is that it's manual only, which requires you to continually adjust it as lighting conditions change, slowing you down. I use a flash about 20x more often than the diffuser, mostly because it's simply more portable and doesn't require a second person to hold. Good luck!
earlier I had this experience step by step, with a low level camera, but what Tony is telling is would save lots of hassle for me back then. all great tutorial, well thought and professional yet very easy to adopt. Gear job guys !
A 70-200 f/2.8 is ideal for portrait photography, but the lens you have can work great if you understand how to use it. You want a telephoto focal length to create flattering features. If you're outside the studio, you also want to have a short depth-of-field to blur the background. Background blur is influenced not just by aperture but distance to the subject, focal length, and distance behind the subject. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in description).
Oh, probably -1.5 to -2 stops, that's pretty typical for me. But you can't just dial in the same setting, you have to learn how to read the scene and adjust to the light, distance to your subject, skin tone, etc. Check Chapters 3, 4, and 6 in my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more information.
Yeah, the videos supplement the book but can't replace it. Chapters 4 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography cover all the nitty-gritty of using fill flash as I do in this video. The videos show the theory in practice. Honestly, it's not that hard. If your flash has power output controls, the buttons are right on it. Otherwise, you use flash exposure compensation on your camera body. Then, just take a test shot, adjust it up or down, and repeat until you're happy with the exposure.
You're right, I was in aperture priority at f/2.8. I didn't have to use exposure compensation, though--the autoexposure system adjusted the shutter speed to match the changing lighting conditions. I cover this in Chapter 4, if you're interested (link in the description). Definitely use a little fill flash outdoors. If you turn the flash up high enough to overpower the sun (thus making it the "main light"), you'd get that ugly flash effect and a dark background. I cover that in Chapters 3 and 6.
Well, I wrote a whole book on the topic, so check that out (links in the description). It has 3.5 hours of video included with it, much of it covering portraits, as well as all the fundamentals you need. That third link provides worldwide shipping.
A Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II and a Canon 580EX flash. However, I probably wouldn't recommend either of them to you. Check Chapter 7 in Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description) for an overview of my wedding equipment recommendations, and read the Flash Buyer's Guide (in the Files section of the SDP Readers Group) for specific flash recommendations.
I can be more specific if you tell me your budget and what type of photography you want to do. My standard recommendation is a Canon T3 kit; it's the cheapest DSLR you can buy, but it's very capable. New it's under $500 USD and used you can get it for MUCH less--check ebay. If you have extra money, save it for lenses, flash, tripod, memory card, etc.
I used a Canon 568EX, but nowadays I'd recommend the YongNu 468EXII for this. You don't need a powerful flash, but you do need a flash that supports ETTL (or at least it makes life much easier). If you have Stunning Digital Photography, check the Flash Buyer's Guide in the Files section of the reader's group on FB for detailed information. If you don't have it... there's a link in the description of the video :)
I've shared settings for a couple of photos in the comments, but what I'm trying to demonstrate with this video is that it's about the lighting, not the camera settings. No settings will make a shot look good if the sun directly in the model's face. The only settings that really impact these pictures are the aperture and focal length which create the short depth-of-field (f/2.8, 200mm). If you want to understand that, read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book (links in the description).
You might need a neutral density filter if it's really bright... but I've never needed one. Maybe use less flash and let the background be overexposed?
I'll make a point of that in the future. I was using a Canon 5D Mark II or Mark III (wouldn't matter which for these photos), 200mm, f/2.8, and ISO 100 (standard settings for headshots) and auto shutter speed (as long as it stays above 1/60th). Auto white balance. Canon 70-200mm f/2.8, my favorite portrait lens. If you're interested in portrait settings, read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) which will teach you all about which settings to use.
I suggest the YongNuo 468 or 568, depending on how much you want to spend. To blur the background, you need a "fast" telephoto lens, which means it has a low f/stop number. I use a 70-200 f/2.8 which starts at around $750. You can also use a 85mm f/1.8 and get good results. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more info. If you buy the book, I have an entire Flash Buyer's Guide available to readers.
I always just leave the WB set to auto, but since I shoot RAW, I can change it later. Check Chapters 3 and 4 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more info. There was minimal processing on the sample photos.
I've been watching you for many years and the content keeps getting better and better! It is possible to learn new things in every video, even old ones such as this and though that is too basic for me, I enjoy watching basic stuff because improvement may be in "insignificant" details.
I love the D800, and it's great for this type of work. I shoot Canon because I've always shot Canon; I have a huge collection of Canon lenses. Canon continues to get the job done, and the differences between Canon and Nikon just aren't significant enough to justify switching systems. If I were buying new, I'd probably grab a D800.
You can see me take the pictures in the video. I show you the exact setup: shade + on-camera fill. If the pictures were edited at all it was just whatever light retouching Chelsea did (she's both the model and the photo editor) to remove a blemish or whatever, but she doesn't recall doing any editing... but certainly nothing that would change the lighting of the photos.
50mm (on a full frame) is "normal" (about what the eye sees) and that's classic for street photography. You'd want the 35mm on an APS-C camera to get the same perspective. You want something longer for portraiture, like a 70-200 or an 85mm. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).
Well, video is a bit wider than photo, so I do have to crop a bit off the top and bottom to fit the format. But I often do crop the top of the head for portraiture. It's a common technique. Check Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography, and just watch TV and movies to see how often the composition is used.
hey guys, you need to get this book. im a novice, and bought this books with my canon t3i, and i have been thanking God that i did. this book is incredible! its so easy to understand and so challenging at the same time. i give it 5 stars!....btw, Tony, your model is SO BEAUTIFUL! lol ;) ciao
Tony, I really, really appreciate your honest and unpretentious spirt. You communicate a volume of data here and reinforce it in a simple, practical way. So many of your peers are lacking these skills. As a newcomer to the game :-) Thank You, and I'll be watching. - Mark
Yes, I think it's the best general purpose lens in the Canon lineup. I use the 70-200 f2.8 for most of my commercial photography (where the sharpness really counts), which is why I don't have a 24-70. The 24-70 is definitely sharper, though it lacks IS.
True that, but full frame matters for portraits not because of megapixels but because of depth of field and low noise, and you can get a used 5D Mark II (my recommendation for a portrait camera) for $1300 now.
If you use auto mode, the camera simply uses the flash to expose the picture, so the flash is the main light. If you use aperture priority (as I do for portraits out of the studio), the flash acts as fill flash, and the output is variable. So yes, the flash could be cranked up enough to overexpose the whole picture. I set the flash to -1 to -1.5 stops so that it just fills in the shadows. Check chapter 4 of my book (link in the description) for more info.
Just set the camera for aperture priority and set the flash exposure compensation for -1.5 to -2 stops. Shoot, check the exposure, adjust, and try again. For detailed information, read Chapters 3 and 6 in my book (links in the description of this video). Thanks!
I think she (Chelsea, both the model and photo editor) did some light editing but wouldn't have smoothed the skin. The lighting does that. Front lighting removes shadows, hiding texture. Check Chapter 3 in Stunning Digital Photography.
Yeah, I use a softbox in the studio, but it's a lot of work to haul a softbox to a location shoot. Re: softening the background, just use a proper portrait lens like the 70-200 f/2.8 that I'm using and shoot wide-open at f/2.8. I cover all this in Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).
Chelsea did some really light editing on the photos, maybe removing a stray hair or blemish, but nothing that would impact the lighting, which is what this video is teaching.
In this video I just used on-camera flash pointed directly at Chelsea. There's more information in Chapter 6 about using off-camera flash, diffusers, reflectors, etc.
you don't always need flash, but unless there's some front-lighting, it's good to use some fill (as I show in this video). My 70-200 is the L Mk2 model. You can get less expensive models from Sigma and Tamron, though.
Canon or Nikon, it really doesn't matter. I recommend people in that price range start with the 1100D, but the 600D does have some nice features, so if that's in your budget, grab that. I suggest buying a used kit, because it's way less expensive. Be sure to save money for a tripod, memory card, and external flash. At some point soon, you're going to want more lenses, so buy used and save the cash for extras. Be sure to follow us on FB (I answer questions there)! Link in the description.
set it to shoot raw, and then you can adjust the white balance on your PC. You want to shoot raw anyway, because it provides much better image quality, especially in challenging situations. For more info about both raw and white balance, check out my book, Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).
I cover adjusting fill flash in Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description). There's no one right answer because it varies depending on the conditions; you have to learn to test and adjust. Usually I start with -1.5 stops and work up or down from there.
Hi, Alex. Check Chapter 6 in my book (link in the description) for complete details about portrait photography, including the equipment you need. The 85mm f1.8 is my recommendation for a budget portrait lens--it's great. However, if I were you, I'd sell the 70-200 f4 and get a 70-200 f2.8. I much prefer that over the 85mm f1.8. Tamron, Sigma, and Canon each make 70-200 f2.8 lenses at different price points, from $750-$2200.
Try ETTL with -1.5 stops flash compensation, then adjust up or down from there. Check Chapters 3 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description of this video) for detailed information and more videos.
After watching many photography videos I ran into this one. Such a relief to see a video with short precise sentences and so eloquently spoken. You should teach how to make howto videos. Off to find your book on amazon.
For portraits, definitely the 85mm. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for examples showing how different focal lengths change how your model looks.
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Tony and Chelsea......love your posts. I will need to check out the park since I live in CT. Do you offer any in-person photo shoots that I could attend?
Thanks! Not only is she beautiful, she's smart, too. She's also my co-photographer, editor, and book designer :)
And wife!
It’s crazy inspiring how far you guys have come as photographers and video creators
The woman is so beautiful it's hard to tell which picture looks bad.
wow. so I have been watching you two for a year now. I finally just made it across this video because I'm in a pickle that I haven't had since starting photography. you two are amazing but the real amazing thing is how you have become comfortable in front of the camera. youre so more relaxed and personal in the newer videos. reguardless the info in this video is timeless. thanks a lot
There is so much content and these guys are so helpful and try so hard to educate beginner photographers... Painful to watch comments about Chelsea's looks. She's the man's wife for crying out loud. Have some respect people!
The orange sphincter is trolling anything with her in a photo
Ah, glad you found it! Yeah, we're not yet in any bookstores, but you can buy it on Amazon, Kindle, Google Play, and Nook. We hope to expand to bookstores soon.
I googled the term photogenic and Chelsea came up.
You're welcome, and thank you! Enjoy that awesome flash. I cover the basics of flash in Chapter 3 and lighting for portraits in Chapter 6.
You did not talked about that flash settings at all.
Other than that it was great video
Your pictures can NEVER be bad, because, Chelsea is Gorgeous!! Your equipment is too TOP NOTCH! And you are a Professional photographer with Tremendous SKILLS
yes adding a flesh light to shaded area works good in portrait images.
It's best to use flesh lights in shaded areas, it draws less attention.
Hey, thanks for writing. Those are the same shots I took during the video (though I snapped a handful each time and picked the best). You're right though, shadows look WAY better than sunlight.
The shot in the sun (at 2:05) is at 1/500th, f/2.8, ISO 100. The shot in the shadow (2:35) is at 1/180, f/2.8, ISO 100. I used autoexposure, and apparently the shadow was about 1.5 stops darker than the direct light. If you look, the background does get brighter, but it also changes because she moved.
Hi,
I have my T3 in manual can I shoot having the lens on auto focus?
Yes
The 85mm f1.8 or a 70-200 f2.8. Tamron makes an excellent, inexpensive model. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (links in the descriptions) for complete details about portrait equipment and techniques.
can you tell me what your camera settings are in this video?
Good question. It always requires a bit of trial and error, but for fill flash outdoors, normally I start with -1.5 stops (using ETTL), take a shot, and then adjust as needed.
No matter how you shoot, with a model like her its always right.
She is fucking beautiful !
On-camera flash with ETTL. Indoors, with low white ceilings, I'll do a bounce flash with the built-in white card. Outdoors I'll either point the flash directly toward the subject, or I'll put a small softbox on my flash.
Chapters 3 and 6 in my book have some good information on flash.
Chelsea is a fox: it just can't be denied.
Its those lips!
Yes, all of the above. The flash will provide similar effect in any of those modes. Check Chapters 3 and 4 of my book (link in the description) for more detail.
GREAT video thank you
+William Knight You're welcome!
200mm, f/2.8, ISO 100, aperture priority (so shutter speed set automatically). If required, I used high speed sync on the flash. i would only need to use an ND filter if my camera couldn't use a fast enough shutter speed, or if I didn't have high-speed sync.
More info in Chapters 3, 4, and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography.
I was with you until you used the flash... Nobody wants white dots dead centre in their pupils. In my opinion it looks way better to use a reflector below, for catchlights and filling in shadows.
Agreed. We have many detailed lighting videos, and entire chapters in Stunning Digital Photography dedicated to more complex lighting setups. This video is just intended to give people a quick way to improve shots with nothing but an on-camera flash.
Tony Northrup Except it did not improve the shot... I'm sorry.
***** He's introducing the flash just to get the catchlight ("white dots") so that would be ridiculous. Also, removing catchlights in post looks VERY unnatural. Your model can hold a reflector herself in most situations on a tight crop like this. I'd go for any option over the "flash it to bits & fix it in post" attitude, even if that means having to pay an assistant.
***** You're absolutely right, I'm a full-time photographer so I might look at things quite differently than a hobbyist. Though I thought I'd help people who are new to photography by stating a bit of my own vision on things like this situation. My opinion is just as valid as anyone else's, so do with it as you wish. I'm not dictating anything, experiment as you wish.
***** Golly, gee whiz Sabine ... Tony is talking to me and not the professionals who are not watching this tutorial. Oh why do I bother??!! Anyhow Tony .. keep the good info coming.
I'd get a 70-200 f2.8. Tamron, Sigma, and Canon all have good models. The more expensive models are sharper and overall better, but the lower-end models (the Tamron is only $750) get the job done, too.
I do recommend the 85mm f1.8 for people on lower budgets, but if you have the cash for the 85 1.2, I'd definitely steer you toward a zoom instead. F/2.8 is generally plenty to blur the background nicely, and the zoom really makes it easy to recompose between headshots, body shots, etc.
o chelsea :(
TTL with flash exposure compensation, usually -1.5 to .5 stops. I take a test shot and adjust it until I like the results.
this girls is really beautiful. im falling in love
Miramez Jr That's Tony's Wife...sorry
i didnt know. sorry :P
+Mira Jr hahahahahah
Aperture priority, f/2.8 and 200mm for background blur. I dial in -1 or -1.5 stops of flash exposure compensation to add a catchlights without washing out the face. ISO 100 whenever I have enough light.
I let the camera determine the shutter speed. As long as it's above 1/60th, there won't be any camera shake (thanks to IS) or motion blur.
The camera settings are really the least important part of all this. Lighting, composition, posing, hair, makeup, expression, etc. are all more critical.
Remember guys, all of your problems can be solved simply by turning your flash on. World hunger? No biggie. War on terror? Easy peasy! Providing fill light for a portrait photo? Sure it can do that I guess, but a waste of potential.
Hi, I discuss portrait equipment and techniques in detail in Chapter 6 of my book (links in the description) but the lens I'm using is the Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS II. I recommend everyone get a 70-200 f2.8, but you can find cheaper versions made by Tamron and Sigma. For even less, try an 85mm f1.8.
Chelsea is soooo bae
Pergola, it's a structure people put over their deck or patio to provide some shade. It's like a roof with gaps in it.
Tony, I love your videos but I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one. The photo of Chelsea in the sun, just outside of the pergola offered contrast and looked good. The others were dead flat 1:1 and looked rather lifeless. Keep up the good work. I will continue to tune in. Thanks.
For these shots, the flash is in TTL mode, -1.5 or -2 stops flash exposure compensation.
gorgeous face...
oh, you!
Tony is punching well above his weight
I own a D5100 too, and I've gotta say the manager pulled a fast one on you when he said the kit lens would actually be great for portraits. I love portrait photography, and after doing a lot and a lot of research I ended up buying the NIKKOR AF-S 50mm f/1.8G. This one is a lightweight prime lens, isn't too heavy on the wallet and most importantly- produces outstanding portraits with minimal distortion. If you have a bigger budget you can also try a zoom VR lens for better bokeh and versatility.
Tried to learn about lighting but was mesmorized by that beautiful woman...damn
Sorry, just saw this comment. The 70-200 f/2.8 is my portrait lens, and I really can't imagine needing anything other than a standard kit lens for group or wide angle shots.
I have a video about lenses on my short list, so look for it soon. I haven't made a video about the menu system on the 5D3, but I should. Thanks for the idea. Mine is in the shop now, but I'll make it when it comes back.
Sorry but you have to stop giving us great videos by making her as model , because all 5 min I was looking at her how beautiful she is
I like the 430EX. It has bounce, ETTL, and plenty of power for portraits, and it's a good price. If you decide to upgrade later, you can still use it as a second flash. Check eBay for used prices and save yourself a few bucks.
That will work, but you need a portrait lens to get that nice background blur. I use a 70-200 f/2.8, or you could get an 85mm f/1.8 to get a similar effect a little cheaper.
Your flash is fine; I just use -1.5 to -.5 stops flash exposure compensation. I cover using fill flash in Chapter 3 of my book Stunning Digital Photography and other details of portraiture in Chapter 6 (link in the description). The video is really just to supplement the book.
Nobody is more inspiring than Brian peterson in the photography world
In the studio you don't need to worry about background blur, so I usually shoot at f/8 or f/11. Basically I adjust the aperture to get the exposure I need with the studio lights, while shooting at ISO 100.
Chapter 6 has lots of info about this :). You can buy the book directly from us using the third link in the description of the video, worldwide.
Check out the Sigma 70-200 with OS (their version of IS) for $1300, or the Tamron model without IS for $770. If you don't get IS, you just have to be careful to keep your shutter speed high enough to avoid camera shake, which often means using a higher ISO than you would otherwise need, which adds a bit of noise. So, the purpose of IS is really to reduce noise.
Oh, I use evaluative metering for everything. I didn't have to apply any EC; the standard exposure was fine. I did adjust the flash exposure compensation down about 1.5 stops.
Thanks for buying the book!! You'll find lots of good information about metering, lighting, and portraits in Chapters 3, 4, and 6.
Using fill flash or bounce flash will make that much better. Check Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description).
For the lighting, yes, any camera will do. He specifically asked about the bokeh, though, and if you want as much blur as I showed in that video, you'd need to be full frame and at 200mm f/2.8.
I start with ETTL, -1.5 stops, and adjust from there. Check Chapters 3, 4, and 6 in my book (links in the description) for detailed information about exposure, flash, and portraiture.
Hi, Angel. If you have my book, go to the private Stunning Digital Photography Readers group on Facebook, where you can download the Flash Buyer's Guide with all the info you need. You can find examples of different flash modifiers in Chapter 4, and Chapter 6 is dedicated to portrait techniques.
200mm (on a full frame camera) and f/2.8 to blur the background. I do use TTL, and usually adjust the output down 1.5 to 2.5 stops so it's not overpowering.
You can't simply use those settings, though, because lighting conditions and even skin tone vary and you probably have different equipment. Instead, you should build an understanding of how they impact your photos and practice. Read through Chapters 3 and 6 in my book, Stunning Digital Photography, for more info (link in the description).
The original 5D. I was using the Mark II to film. I've since bought the Mark III, but it wasn't out when I recorded this.
I shot my first wedding last weekend. This tutorial made all the difference and the advice is much appreciated.
Be sure to read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description) to understand the factors that create the short depth-of-field you're looking for. Unfortunately the Sony NEX-F3 really isn't up for the job because it has a small sensor and doesn't have any available portrait lenses.
I'd push you towards a Canon or Nikon full frame and a 70-200 f/2.8. In this video I'm using a Canon 5D Mark II and the Canon 70-200 f/2.8, but you could buy the Tamron 70-200.
I usually use aperture priority for portraits, and everything that's not a fast-moving subject. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in my book (Stunning Digital Photography, link in the description) for detailed information and more videos...
I'd start with an ETTL flash, like the YongNuo 468EX-II. The challenge with the 560 is that it's manual only, which requires you to continually adjust it as lighting conditions change, slowing you down.
I use a flash about 20x more often than the diffuser, mostly because it's simply more portable and doesn't require a second person to hold.
Good luck!
Love your dynamic during the videos and lets not deny the simple fact that your wife is a beautiful model! thank you x
earlier I had this experience step by step, with a low level camera, but what Tony is telling is would save lots of hassle for me back then.
all great tutorial, well thought and professional yet very easy to adopt.
Gear job guys !
A 70-200 f/2.8 is ideal for portrait photography, but the lens you have can work great if you understand how to use it.
You want a telephoto focal length to create flattering features. If you're outside the studio, you also want to have a short depth-of-field to blur the background. Background blur is influenced not just by aperture but distance to the subject, focal length, and distance behind the subject. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in description).
Oh, probably -1.5 to -2 stops, that's pretty typical for me. But you can't just dial in the same setting, you have to learn how to read the scene and adjust to the light, distance to your subject, skin tone, etc. Check Chapters 3, 4, and 6 in my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more information.
Yeah, the videos supplement the book but can't replace it. Chapters 4 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography cover all the nitty-gritty of using fill flash as I do in this video. The videos show the theory in practice.
Honestly, it's not that hard. If your flash has power output controls, the buttons are right on it. Otherwise, you use flash exposure compensation on your camera body. Then, just take a test shot, adjust it up or down, and repeat until you're happy with the exposure.
Thanks! This was in CT, about 2 hours from NYC. NYC is difficult to film in... permits and such.
You're right, I was in aperture priority at f/2.8. I didn't have to use exposure compensation, though--the autoexposure system adjusted the shutter speed to match the changing lighting conditions. I cover this in Chapter 4, if you're interested (link in the description).
Definitely use a little fill flash outdoors. If you turn the flash up high enough to overpower the sun (thus making it the "main light"), you'd get that ugly flash effect and a dark background. I cover that in Chapters 3 and 6.
Well, I wrote a whole book on the topic, so check that out (links in the description). It has 3.5 hours of video included with it, much of it covering portraits, as well as all the fundamentals you need. That third link provides worldwide shipping.
A Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II and a Canon 580EX flash. However, I probably wouldn't recommend either of them to you. Check Chapter 7 in Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description) for an overview of my wedding equipment recommendations, and read the Flash Buyer's Guide (in the Files section of the SDP Readers Group) for specific flash recommendations.
I can be more specific if you tell me your budget and what type of photography you want to do. My standard recommendation is a Canon T3 kit; it's the cheapest DSLR you can buy, but it's very capable. New it's under $500 USD and used you can get it for MUCH less--check ebay. If you have extra money, save it for lenses, flash, tripod, memory card, etc.
Autoexposed, 200mm, f/2.8. For shots with flash, usually -1.5 stop flash exposure compensation.
I used a Canon 568EX, but nowadays I'd recommend the YongNu 468EXII for this. You don't need a powerful flash, but you do need a flash that supports ETTL (or at least it makes life much easier).
If you have Stunning Digital Photography, check the Flash Buyer's Guide in the Files section of the reader's group on FB for detailed information. If you don't have it... there's a link in the description of the video :)
I've shared settings for a couple of photos in the comments, but what I'm trying to demonstrate with this video is that it's about the lighting, not the camera settings. No settings will make a shot look good if the sun directly in the model's face.
The only settings that really impact these pictures are the aperture and focal length which create the short depth-of-field (f/2.8, 200mm). If you want to understand that, read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book (links in the description).
You might need a neutral density filter if it's really bright... but I've never needed one. Maybe use less flash and let the background be overexposed?
I'll make a point of that in the future. I was using a Canon 5D Mark II or Mark III (wouldn't matter which for these photos), 200mm, f/2.8, and ISO 100 (standard settings for headshots) and auto shutter speed (as long as it stays above 1/60th). Auto white balance. Canon 70-200mm f/2.8, my favorite portrait lens.
If you're interested in portrait settings, read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) which will teach you all about which settings to use.
I suggest the YongNuo 468 or 568, depending on how much you want to spend. To blur the background, you need a "fast" telephoto lens, which means it has a low f/stop number. I use a 70-200 f/2.8 which starts at around $750. You can also use a 85mm f/1.8 and get good results. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more info. If you buy the book, I have an entire Flash Buyer's Guide available to readers.
I always just leave the WB set to auto, but since I shoot RAW, I can change it later. Check Chapters 3 and 4 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more info. There was minimal processing on the sample photos.
I've been watching you for many years and the content keeps getting better and better! It is possible to learn new things in every video, even old ones such as this and though that is too basic for me, I enjoy watching basic stuff because improvement may be in "insignificant" details.
I love the D800, and it's great for this type of work. I shoot Canon because I've always shot Canon; I have a huge collection of Canon lenses. Canon continues to get the job done, and the differences between Canon and Nikon just aren't significant enough to justify switching systems. If I were buying new, I'd probably grab a D800.
You make a valid point about AE lock, but no, I didn't use it. I just manually adjusted the flash output to taste.
You can see me take the pictures in the video. I show you the exact setup: shade + on-camera fill. If the pictures were edited at all it was just whatever light retouching Chelsea did (she's both the model and the photo editor) to remove a blemish or whatever, but she doesn't recall doing any editing... but certainly nothing that would change the lighting of the photos.
50mm (on a full frame) is "normal" (about what the eye sees) and that's classic for street photography. You'd want the 35mm on an APS-C camera to get the same perspective.
You want something longer for portraiture, like a 70-200 or an 85mm. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).
Well, video is a bit wider than photo, so I do have to crop a bit off the top and bottom to fit the format. But I often do crop the top of the head for portraiture. It's a common technique. Check Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography, and just watch TV and movies to see how often the composition is used.
hey guys, you need to get this book. im a novice, and bought this books with my canon t3i, and i have been thanking God that i did. this book is incredible! its so easy to understand and so challenging at the same time. i give it 5 stars!....btw, Tony, your model is SO BEAUTIFUL! lol ;) ciao
Tony, I really, really appreciate your honest and unpretentious spirt. You communicate a volume of data here and reinforce it in a simple, practical way. So many of your peers are lacking these skills. As a newcomer to the game :-) Thank You, and I'll be watching. - Mark
Yep, and access to our forums, and lifetime updates (which will include more videos). Enjoy!
Yes, I think it's the best general purpose lens in the Canon lineup. I use the 70-200 f2.8 for most of my commercial photography (where the sharpness really counts), which is why I don't have a 24-70. The 24-70 is definitely sharper, though it lacks IS.
True that, but full frame matters for portraits not because of megapixels but because of depth of field and low noise, and you can get a used 5D Mark II (my recommendation for a portrait camera) for $1300 now.
Yep, link in the description.
If you use auto mode, the camera simply uses the flash to expose the picture, so the flash is the main light. If you use aperture priority (as I do for portraits out of the studio), the flash acts as fill flash, and the output is variable.
So yes, the flash could be cranked up enough to overexpose the whole picture. I set the flash to -1 to -1.5 stops so that it just fills in the shadows. Check chapter 4 of my book (link in the description) for more info.
Just set the camera for aperture priority and set the flash exposure compensation for -1.5 to -2 stops. Shoot, check the exposure, adjust, and try again.
For detailed information, read Chapters 3 and 6 in my book (links in the description of this video). Thanks!
I think she (Chelsea, both the model and photo editor) did some light editing but wouldn't have smoothed the skin. The lighting does that. Front lighting removes shadows, hiding texture. Check Chapter 3 in Stunning Digital Photography.
Yeah, I use a softbox in the studio, but it's a lot of work to haul a softbox to a location shoot. Re: softening the background, just use a proper portrait lens like the 70-200 f/2.8 that I'm using and shoot wide-open at f/2.8.
I cover all this in Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).
Chelsea did some really light editing on the photos, maybe removing a stray hair or blemish, but nothing that would impact the lighting, which is what this video is teaching.
In this video I just used on-camera flash pointed directly at Chelsea. There's more information in Chapter 6 about using off-camera flash, diffusers, reflectors, etc.
you don't always need flash, but unless there's some front-lighting, it's good to use some fill (as I show in this video).
My 70-200 is the L Mk2 model. You can get less expensive models from Sigma and Tamron, though.
Canon or Nikon, it really doesn't matter. I recommend people in that price range start with the 1100D, but the 600D does have some nice features, so if that's in your budget, grab that.
I suggest buying a used kit, because it's way less expensive. Be sure to save money for a tripod, memory card, and external flash. At some point soon, you're going to want more lenses, so buy used and save the cash for extras.
Be sure to follow us on FB (I answer questions there)! Link in the description.
set it to shoot raw, and then you can adjust the white balance on your PC. You want to shoot raw anyway, because it provides much better image quality, especially in challenging situations. For more info about both raw and white balance, check out my book, Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).
I cover adjusting fill flash in Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description). There's no one right answer because it varies depending on the conditions; you have to learn to test and adjust. Usually I start with -1.5 stops and work up or down from there.
Hi, Alex. Check Chapter 6 in my book (link in the description) for complete details about portrait photography, including the equipment you need. The 85mm f1.8 is my recommendation for a budget portrait lens--it's great. However, if I were you, I'd sell the 70-200 f4 and get a 70-200 f2.8. I much prefer that over the 85mm f1.8. Tamron, Sigma, and Canon each make 70-200 f2.8 lenses at different price points, from $750-$2200.
Try ETTL with -1.5 stops flash compensation, then adjust up or down from there. Check Chapters 3 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description of this video) for detailed information and more videos.
After watching many photography videos I ran into this one.
Such a relief to see a video with short precise sentences and so eloquently spoken.
You should teach how to make howto videos.
Off to find your book on amazon.
Oh man, I haven't found a video on RUclips that was as concise and helpful on this topic as this one. Thanks a lot!
For portraits, definitely the 85mm. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for examples showing how different focal lengths change how your model looks.