2010 Honda Civic EX Upper Torque and Right Side Engine Mount Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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2010 Honda Civic EX Upper Torque and Right Side Engine Mount Replacement
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2010 Honda Civic EX sedan got a strange Vibration noise inside the car passenger side and noticed that the right engine mount is sagging. Replace the mount with the OEM part # 50820-SNA-P01 to fix the problem.
Tools use in this video:
1. 2 floor jack (1 to lift up the car frame so the other one can get in to support the oil pan)
2. 1 piece of wood that fit the jack lifting area
3. 1/2" Breaker bar
4. 17mm deep and standard sockets 1/2" drive
5. 6", 10" 1/2 drive extension
6. A marker (optional)
7. 10mm socket 1/2 or 3/8" drive for the ground strap
8. 14mm short socket, 1/2" and 3/8" drive
9. 19mm deep socket
10.17mm standard socket 3/8" drive
11.6",18" extension, 3/8" drive
Torque Specs From 2010 Honda Civic Repair Manual:
1 19mm bolt and 1 nut 54 foot pounds (Engine/Motor mount top bracket)
1 10mm bolt grounding strap 7.2 foot pounds
1 17mm bolt that came with the bracket on top of the motor mount 52 foot pounds
3 14mm bolts for the bracket by the fender. 1 by the fender and 2 on the motor mount. 36 foot pounds
2 17mm bolts motor mount to car frame 47 foot pounds
3 17mm bolts for upper mount (Torque bar) 47 foot pounds
Ref #6:
www.hondaparts...
I got this OEM motor mount on Ebay from the Seller jack-brothers-car-parts-shop-japan :
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the top torque mount is adjustable , find its place .
Dam you didn't even need to remove the mount bracket. So much easier. By the way did your engine drop back when you removed those two engine mount bolts from the top? I notice some videos out there showed this.
Honda repair manual do show to take out the top mount bracket. Now, if your motor mount is broke off or the new one didn't come with the bracket, then you can take it off and it will make it a little easier to remove and install the whole mount. But since this OEM mount came with that bracket already installed on, I try not to mess with it and it works. My engine is sagging due to bad mount (No gap) so I use the gap clearance on the new motor mount and lift the engine up at the oil pan to about 1/2 - 3/4" gap. When I removed the bolt and that nut, my engine didn't drop at all. So use the gap on the new mount as a guide on how far you can lift the engine up will make the removal /installation much easier.
Have you try the one from AutoZone? I know you are AutoZone fan, but why the OEM this time?
I tried it before but have to returned back to them because it jerk too much when shifting from park to reverse. At the time was $80.00 and it wasn't a hydraulic type. The kind you see me replaced in the video is a life time warranty, but the Seller no longer on Ebay so I can not return it. It only lasted 3 years so I may as well go for the OEM. The one I got is from Japan and the link to it is in the description. many of my friends have used the after market brand, but all agreed that it doesn't last long. Some came with the holes misalign and have to return them.
@@truerenegade1095 I also bought the "OEM" engine mount from eBay. But the brown tape seal was cut. They just put clear tape over it but it didn't look like they were trying to hide it. The wrapping was Japanese newspaper. Just like yours it says "s-4" on the metal plate. How's the mount doing now? Thanks
@@45kingofkings Mine still working good. So far no problem.
@@truerenegade1095 Thanks for the reply 🙏🏼! I'm going to replace it soon. I know that it there's fluid inside the hydraulic mount. Were you able to hear if there was fluid inside?! I shook the mount and i can't tell if there is fluid in it or not
@@45kingofkings I sook it when I just received it but didn't feel any liquid inside.