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Incredibly useful, just bought a 230TE 124, i have a feeling I'll get a lot of use out of the information you share! Thank you from all of the younger enthusiasts!
Thank you so much. My Mercedes is very badly set up. I have followed this and runs lots better. I need to set potentiometer correctly now. I have donated. You know this better than any mechanic I can find. Kind regards from England!
Hello and thank you very much for your kind donation. Concerning the potentiometer you will have to set it to 0.7V while the car is warm on idle. I will post you the link in the comment but I am going to make you the video as well and give some advice more. ruclips.net/video/IG9i6fkfPJ8/видео.html As well as this one. ruclips.net/video/KbJjpEYNThA/видео.html
@@mercedeske Thank you, I have a duty cycle multimeter also but some of advice I have seen is not good or not relevant due to different versions of the engines. I would also welcome advice how to use this for the w201 without an o2 sensor. The workshop manual from Haynes is completely useless and wrong. Also lots of mechanics I think don't understand how this system works. They just guess what is wrong because It's not simple like a carburettor but also you can't plug a computer in to trace faults like newer cars.
@@retrosupplystore3216 I am just editing your video. Concerning the duty cycle without the o2 sensor - stick the negative in the round diagnostic socket x11 in 2 and the positive in 3. As the engine warms up you have to get a STEADY reading of 50%, that's everything. The mechanics at the dealership know nothing. They just know to loosen and tighten the screws and that's it.
@@mercedeske thanks again, yes even independent mechanics are not easy to find who remember this system, there is no Mercedes specialist near me. Lots more understand the system on VW but because it is not quite the same this causes more problems!
@@retrosupplystore3216 Thank you. I heard that in my land there is a specialist for ke-jetronic but he won't do Mercedes vehicles, he did VW only. My father told me once that everything is different on Mercedes is comparison to other vehicles.
Hello from Cheshire UK, my M104 SL has been laid up for 7 years , i had to change both pumps the accumulator the filter, clean the small filter on the distributor AND then it started but so much black smoke, no idle and very lumpy any ideas would be most welcome, I use your videos to give me an overall idea of what i should be doing and looking for and how things work , I thank you very much for these videos, we are not alone with good people like you to guide us.
Ho and thanks for your nice words. At first check all the rubber hoses, they can cause issue. Replace the injectors if you haven't, the potentiometer as well, lambda. That would be for the beginning. Good luck and let it be a Happy Mercedesing 😊 😃 🍀
This video is great and thank you very much. I managed to get my 1984 190e 2.0 m102 engine from 9.99% emissions down to 1.8% in the green and it's all passed now. Very informative. Louis
@@mercedeske Sorry I didn’t see your question earlier and am only replying now. It is pretty expensive. The engine has to come out for many types of service, and there are twelve cylinders and 48 valves to look after. I’d say about EUR 5000 every year to maintain a very healthy car. I mean on average. You may go two years spending only EUR 500, but then get a very big bill for something. When you buy one - like any used car - it will need some fixing, so add EUR 15-20000 for all the missed maintenance the previous owner left for you. But I think Testarossas are increasing in value by about EUR 10000 a year, maybe more, so it doesn’t bother me. If the Testarossa was not increasing in value quickly I would not have bought one. I am thinking about the total amount of money it will cost me to own this car for a few years. In the end, I expect to get paid to own this car for 5 years. 😉 🏁
Hey, you probably have seen my other comments about my cold start issue and its now finally resolved, my sensor plate needed to be adjusted and then i calibrated my aftermarket potentiometer to 0.6volts and now its working perfect
Hello Sir and thank you. I have a MB 190-E, 2.3, 1988. It takes about 2 minutes of constant cranking to start, regardless of hot or cold. I have replaced the cold start fuel injector and the fuel distributor by the carburetor and a new fuel pump and filter. Once it is running it is fine. I am going to try this and see if it works. This is something I never considered. I GREATLY appreciate what you make available and your obvious expertise. If you have any other suggestion I (and I beet many others) would love to know about them. Best regards, John
Hello and thanks for the nice words. Try observing the mixture to see if it's too lean or too rich(put the multimeter on the X11. Nr.2 ground, nr.3 - for the injection and try to achieve the fluctuation 6.6-7.3V). Replace the potentiometer and lambda if you haven't. That's what I can suggest. Best regards from me as well!
Great video! What if the jetronic is installed on the vehicle and you are trying to adjust it? Does it change the process? The vehicle is a 1987 SL560. Someone previously had messed with the adjustment and now I'm trying to get it in the correct position. The jetronic is installed with the air filter removed so we have direct access to it. When I use my calipers to measure the distance, like the way you show in your video, I measure 30.6 mm. The car runs but cannot hold its own idle (without pressing the accelerator) so we are thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere else. Previously, I made the adjustment rich and the measurement only went as low as 30.3 mm and wouldn't run too well so I started to lean it. Any thoughts or ideas?
Do it as in my video but bear in mind that this is just a starting point at which any car should start and the fine adjustment is done with the multimeter. Have you replaced the potentiometer?
Thank you for the explanation! I currently own a 190e with m102 and I have access to a dynamometer. I noticed that my m102 is running lean above 4000rpm at wide open throtle, below 4000rpm and idling its fine and I got it to the AFR I wanted. But above 4000r it suddenly runs lean, what should I check on my k jet system ?
Hi and thanks for the comment. This is how it goes - I would recommend you to check the fuel flow at full throttle. This is done with the engine off, of course. Find 4 clean bottles and measure your fuel flow with the sensor plate fully deflected. You must get 100ml in one minute per section. So 400ml per minute and the difference between the cylinders must be 10ml at most. Also check your mixture adjustment. You must be around 50% at 2000RPM(on the X11) or 0Amps +/-3 mAmps at the EHA valve. Hope you solve the issue, finger crossed!
Hi from Estonia. I have a m103 w124 mb. Not working well 😀 My question is about k jet sensor plate move. I turn the ignition on and press the sensorplate with finger to move down. It moves much harder than, the ig is not on.
Hi, i have a problem with mu 230e engine m.102980...it seems that the co2 screw is brokern. I dissaswmbly the body in wich the lambda plate is but i can not reach the threaded part inside The part in wich the screw gets in for regulation. I think i broke something I need help
ivinca can you pls clarify the position of the plunger when the engine is on idle? if the no operation position is 1.9 mm between the plunger and the co screw then is this position retained during idle? then the plunger has a tiny hole through which the idle fuel go in..when thr plunger is set by the recess of 0.6mm is this hole closed by the plunger? bosch refers to this setting to cold and hot start problems.my car runs now but i have hot start issues and it maybe related to this idle hole
This no operation position, this gap that the sensor plate must have doesn't mean that the sensor plate is going to fall, it's going to be in its rest position.
@@mercedeske Thanks for the reply! Well, I think I'm gonna have that problem anyway since I'll have to rebuild the fuel distributor. Do you have any tips on how to set the mixture properly?
Thanks. Bear in mind that this is just a starting value, the condition under which any car should start. For all other fine adjustments use your multimeter and inform yourself about the nominal values of your car considering the EHA
Hello from Greece, first I would like to thank you for your advices to fix our problems on our mercedes w201. I'd appreciate if you could tell me what's the right way to clean the ke jetronic system... For example can I use spray cleaner for throttle?? Thank you..
Can the freeplay be the reason for stalling when coming to a stop? RPM drops to 500 and engine shakes for a quick second. Then it either stalls or jumps to 1000. Many thanks
No but I know this problem. This can happen when downshifting as well. It can be either the ECU or some of the sensors, maybe the EHA as well. It happens that the ECU doesn't react on time and doesn't get the engine back to the idle phase. From my experience all the sensors are just SWITCHES and they don't go bad except of the potentiometer which has to be replaced every 150k km(approx.100k miles).
@@mercedeske I've fixed it by myself. It was the screw on the ICV. The screw sets the rpm from where the ICV takes the load of falling RPM. It was tight. I've unscrewed it a bit and now the ICV hooks the falling rpm at about 1000-1200rpm and helps it get to 700-800. The tight screw was maybe under 500rpm hooking point. But the engine cant stay on at that speed.
The plunger on my 230E kjet, is held in by a clip, which allows it to be withdrawn simply by bending the clip. The effect of this is that the plunger rests against the venturi mechanism and there is no freeplay. It starts no problem.
Hi! I love your videos. I am learning really a lot here. I have a question. I have a Porsche 928s with a K Jetronics system. It doesnt start anymore unless I spray quick start in the inlet. The previous owner tampered with the mixture screw. I tried setting it up just like you do in another video: I removed one fuel line, bridged fuel pump and started turn clockwise. I see fuel coming out and set it half turn back. The car then started. But when I turn it off, it wont start anymore. I dont know why its not starting.... I feel the plate but it has no play, like you mention on 4:00 in your video. Can I just turn it counter clockwise a lot? I am afraid I will turn the screw out of system. Thanks!
Hi. try making the mixture leaner, that can help but don't go too much, 2 mills counterclockwise won't do any harm. Try to get a free play just for a bit.
@@mercedeske `Hi Ivica, I already checked because it was 6 hours since I last started it. It started very rough, and after about 5 minutes it started to settle and have an idle of about 550 rpm. Any advice on that difficult 5 first minutes?
Hi I have 1995 380se fuel.pump replaced and filter replaced fuel coming to distributor but no start if I spray in air meter plate direct it starts Where can I start
Thank you for the information. My Mercedes 190e 2.0 was running very badly when I got it and I have been struggling to fix it. I will try this tomorrow and let you know. It definitely is out of specification from what you are telling me. I have gone through the ignition system entirely and it has helped a lot but it deinitely has a misfire or something similar. I have a lot to do yet but everytime I do something it improves and hopefully this will help. Thank you.
@@mercedeske yes I will try adjusting the system tomorrow, followed by fuel filter (this was on my service list anyway) then the injectors and fuel pump pressure test. I will not be able to do the injectors and pressure test myself so I want to do as much as I can without professional help. Thank you for your reply!
@@JMc.D Always. Concerning the injectors - just switch the ignition on after turning the fuel pump to run constantly, press the sensor plate for a while(some 10 seconds) and then observe if they drip. If they do - that's their END OF DUTY!!!
Yes, it does. K-Jetronic is much more sensitive on the screw adjustments, so I would be careful here and there is no way you can monitor the ideal adjustment other than a gas analyzer. This screw will have to be readjusted only if someone has been messing around with it. If you know for sure that no-one has been adjusting the co screw, don't readjust it. Greetings
Hello. The same one, it's universal. If you know that no-one before has done this don't do this because there were many of people here telling me that their engine started running worse as they set the gap to 1.9mm. As I have said it's just a starting point each fine adjustment is done on the eha measuring mAmps
Selamlar bizim garaj da w 123 var e 230 jetronik sisteme sahiptir benzin ponpasını ve filtresini değiştim benzin tankinın içindeki eski yakıtı temizledim tüm hortumlarıni yeniledim ve benzin ponpası çalışamadı benzin relay ini tamir etim ve araç çalıştı sonra söndü rolantide brakinca çalışıyor pedala basınca sönüyor ve benzin yemez ne olabilir
Selamlar. Isınma regülatörünü kontrol ettiniz mi? Bu bir basınç göstergesi ile yapılır. İki hattı olan bir manometre, hattı açmak veya kapatmak için bir kulp ve iki basınçtaki farkı izlemek için bir manometre yapmalısınız. Muhtemelen ısınma regülatörünün yeniden yapılması gerekecekti.
Hello, first thanks a lot for your video. I just bought an audi 80 b4 with the NG 2.3E motor and she struggles a bit to start up no matter if cold or warm. Do you think I need to fine tune the CO screw ? Thanks !
Don't touch the CO-screw. At first check the condition of the injectors, the ignition, vacuum leaks, potentiometer and then check if you have the free play as you pull up the sensor plate or not then you can adjust the co screw if you know for sure that nobody has been readjusting it.
@@mercedeske Hi ivica, my audi 2.3 ng had a distributor fail, i swapped the distributor block from a different engine but not the sensor plate mechanism. my car runs too rich now, strong smell of gasoline but overall sounds good, can i adjust the air fuel screw slightly and eyeball it so i can pass the technical inspection for exhaust gases?
Hi. I have a 86 420SEL. My fuel distributor was leaking gas from where the gasket seal is. It was running good but I always smelled gas fumes so that's when I found the gas leak. I don't want to have to take it apart but can I just tighten the 3 screws on top instead of taking it apart to replace the gasket seal. I'm afraid it would do more harm. What do you recommend? Thanks
The only part on the fuel distributor you can replace without taking it apart is the seal ring as well as the o-ring which it rests on as you unscrew the 3 screws holding it. For everything else you will have to disassemble the fuel distributor if there are leaks. If replacing the seal ring on which the plunger rests measure the distance from the nut(is has to be 0.6mm). The seal ring costs at the dealership 12€ as far as I know.
Poštovanje Ivice ,stelovao sam odnos mesavine goriva i vazduha na osnovu vaseg videa posto je potrosnja bila ogromna i sve je ok ali jutros se auto ugasio ustanovio sam da je izgoreo relej pumpe goriva ,i kada prespojim da probam pumpu na ona dva pina pumpa ce cuje kao da jedva okrece i topi zicu tu gde je prespojeno na kucistu releja.Imam samo pitanje da li je moguce da je crkla pumpa posto sam maksimalno smanjio mesavinu goriva i vazduha ,jel bunilo me je i ranije u toku rada u autu je se cula kako zuji ,a najvise sam stelovao sto je potrosnja benzina bila preko 20 l i neko je to cackao pre mene to znam sigurno.
Zdravo. Pumpa ne može da crkne zbog smanjene smeše. Ona je čisto dotrajala. Pumpa strada ili zbog rada na prazno(nestanak goriva) ili zbog konstantne vožnje na rezervi. Pozdrav
@@mercedeske Znam prijatelju gledao sam ih, samo je manje stvari objasnjeno nego sto si snimio na klipovima na engleskom, daj ti na nasem a njima prevod pa nek se oni pate a ne mi :) PS. Hvala ti za nesebicno sirenje znaja i ucenja nas mucenika sa Ka glavom.
@@aleksandar4986 Radio bih, ali mnogo malo ljudi pogleda moje klipove u odnosu na one sto su na engleskom. Reci sta bi voleo da snimim i ja cu da snimim na srpskom.
Okay I did this adjustment but I pushed the Allen screw all the way down while turning it clockwise. The engine died when I turned it too far. It wouldn’t start after that so I went back to the original position I had it. So from your video it says don’t push the screw down while adjusting it, just turn it without pushing down?
How much effect does turning the screw have on the Freeplay of the plate I previously messed with the screw on someone elses advice and advice and is running not so great it's spitting out fuel. I am getting an aftermarket lambda sensor fitted as mine doesn't have one but in the meantime, I want to get it to that 1.9mm baseline as suggested in your video. Though it seems to be at 1.9mm Freeplay no matter what way I turn it doesn't seem to have an effect on the sensor plate Freeplay. I went for a gentle push halfway down and turned it a few times clockwise and it doesn't seem to have moved at all I was trying to get it to no Freeplay so I could get an accurate distance between bar and plate. Any advice? Mercedes-benz 190e 1990 Thank you for the information so far I have been looking for a source of information for baseline setting for weeks.
Hi. Turning the screw has a big effect because by turning it you move a lever that pushes the plunger inside the fuel distributor. The more you turn the screw clockwise, the more the lever moves towards the plunger and pushes it eventually. If you set the distance to 1.9mm and the car starts then just hook up the multimeter and fine tune the mixture.
Do the initial mixture adjustment. Remove one metal line, bridge the fuel pump relay to make the pump run continuously and start turning the screw clockwise - once you see fuel coming out stop and turn the mixture screw or half a turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Under these conditions each car must start.
@@mercedeske okey thanks Mercedes. I find air leak to in rupper in k-jektronic bottom rupper one hole i have new rupper to make that to but I think it have 2 problems rubber and other thanks
Hi. I have a w124 with the m104 engine. It has a very high fuel economy, probably around 1,7 liters per 10 kilometers. I have checked the clerance and it is 1,2 mm. Do you have some tips to get the fuel economy down?
Yes. Check the sensors(lambda, potentiometer, coolant temperature sensor), check the while mechanical part of the system(measure pressures with the pressure gauge, injectors, pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator...) and then tune up the car(set the mixture).
Hi there , great contribution to the Mercedes classic community. 👌 I have a 190E 2.0 which was running very bad, I had a spare engine from japan so swapped the whole fuel distributor and now it runs great. But on idle its smoking black and I can smell unburnt fuel. What shall I check does turning anti clock wise make it leaner and clockwise means more fuel?
Great video. My injectors spray full when contact with sensor plate. When off sensor injectors stop spraying. Car will not start as I think this causes flooding. Any tips?
The injectors have to be spraying non-stop. If your rubber under the sensor plate is full of fuel then you should consider replacing the seal ring in the distributor.
Thanks for the video. One question: I just rebuild the fuel distributor and now my 300sl r129 is running to rich is throwing white smoke thru the exhaust. Any suggestion please?
Hi. White smoke means antifreeze combustion as far as I know. Check your head gasket. When the engine is running too rich usually you should see black spark plugs and a black smoke out of the exhaust. For a correct mixture you will be needing 2 multimeters - one for duty cycle(%( and the second one on the eha(miliamps). At first check your spark plugs and the antifreeze level. That's what I can advise you. Greetings
@@mercedeske thanks in advance for your fast response. The head gasket and compression are fine the smoke smells a raw gasoline and itching the eyes. The spark plugs are black as running to rich. I just measure the nut of the barrel and has more than 0.6 mm. It has 0.9 mm.
Of course, this is just an initial adjustment for the engine to be started and to work. If you put turbo I would recommend you to make mixture enrichment(eha current not less than-3mA) plus, If you decide that, R17 resistor trimming plug by the ecu at position 7. I would also advise you to buy pulstar spark plugs which work on plasma, if you ask me that would be a MUST! Hier is the link about those plugs how to search for them if you decide. m.ruclips.net/video/aGMoFEBNdxA/видео.html
Hi máster, Please if you know how to make fhe same think, bit in the flow meter of Audi 80, 2,2L motor from 1994. It hasn't this 3 mm. CO regulación bolt. I looked for it, bit don't exists. The flow meter seems the same.
My 560sec climate control is given weak air and once this issue begins I noticed the fuel economy guage is on middle while car on idle rpm.where should I start to find the solution?
Maybe you should try to repair the a/c. I don't drive a car with the climate but I would say it has something to do with the a/c. This is my guess only😃
Hi, congratulations on the excellent sharing! This is indeed important.I ask a question, I have a w124, with the m102 engine and ke jetronic injection, from 1989. It has a problem, I normally change gears and when I have to brake at an intersection, almost before stopping, the rotation lowers so much that the engine shuts down. I have researched so much about this that I can't figure out what it is. Can you help me? Tks
The mechanic made a rich mixture. Move the screw counterclockwise for 2mm and I repeat TWO MILLIMETERS, wait for about 10 seconds and press rapidly the accelerator. If you have lambda then send me the comment to tell you exactly what to do.
How can you mesure 1,9mm? The scale on the meter is only per mm and not 1/10 mm. When you mesure the depth, you mention 27,8mm, but I only can read 28mm (2,8cm) on your meter. Is there a more precise manner to mesure the depth in tenth of a mm? Kind regards
You need a caliper, it measures tenths of mm. At first measure the distance from the "brigde" to the sensor plate, afterwards add 1.9mm to that value and you will get the value you need. If the plate has already started deflecting the plate as you add 1.9mm and measure with the caliper from the bridge, turn counterclockwise and vice-versa.
@@mercedeske Thank you for your answer 👍. But I cannot find a caliper with indication of tenth of a millimeters. Only calipers with indication of millimeters, like yours… That’s my only concern..
If you know for sure that this screw has never been readjusted on your car don't turn it because on the K-Jetronic it's very hard to set the correct mixture, the only way is to use the exhaust gas analyzer. If you know for how much you turned the screw ccw then get it back if no improvements. The screw is very sensitive and requires TINY movements. I can advise you to flush the whole unit but for that action you will have to take it off the car. One more thing, go to my Instagram page, there you will see how a problem with a "stuck" plate is solved.
@@mercedeske Thanks for your answer, yes the screw was readjusted but I don't know how much, now the whole system drops fuel without even turning the ignition key, I think the control plunger is up so the fuel goes just straight. How can I flush the system, I have been watching your videos that are very interesting, but I only found information about the KE, and not for the k. Or how will be the best way to stop the fuel as it seems it goes straight to the engine it tough to move the screw ccw as you do it with the KE system but as I told it did not work my idea was to make the mix leaner to the point to stop the fuel to go to the injectors but it is not working that method. What other options would you recommend? . I will start to follow you on Instagram well, hope I will manage to start the engine and fix my problem.
It's not going to prevent the car from starting, you will manage to start the car but you will have a bad idle. The revs are going to be either too high or the car is going to shake on idle and you will have a bad throttle response. If you have never adjusted the mixture screw or you know for sure that no one has done it, don't turn it, not even for a 16th of a turn!
Eso depende. El original de Bosch puede llegar hasta los 12 kiloohmios. Los nuevos funcionan con menor resistencia, hasta 3 kiloohmios, pero siguen funcionando muy bien.
i have a 1989 sl 560 i guess iwould need some help from you sometimes ...but for the time being iam having a problem with idle control valve is it possible to clean it with carburator cleaner ??? thank you dear
hello dear i fixed the ICV idle control valve its much better after cleaning and very accurate BUT ...since i messed up previously with air flow meter ... i cant get the right tuning a little bit of black smoke comes out from thr exhaust ...would you be able to help me please ...bytheway iam not a mechanic ...its just a passion to my classic mercedes ...thank you for your help at all times
Hi many thanks for sharing this very useful video. Just a quick question: how can I determine how much free play is allowed on the plate for the first measurement when the caliper comes in (which you get in the video is 27.8mm)? Or I could just do closewise turn all the way until there's no any free play, then I start to do measurements by caliper? BTW, my 91 300se is running extremely rich, about 24L/100km (city mostly) .I had visited a couple of mechanic and no one could really solve the problem. I am dying to see this can be addressed one day. May I know if the air sensor tuning possible to make my 300se runs leaner? Best Regards and keep those good works coming :)
Hi and thanks for kind words. The free play should be 1-3mm, ideally 1.9. Take a caliper and measure your distance from above to the sensor plate. Then add 1.9mm and that's the place where the free play must be over, from that point the plate should start going harder. Now, as for the reach mixture - if your car has more than 120k miles consider checking your injectors. You could also replace them. If the car shakes on idle and when pressing the accelerator then it's up to the injectors. If the spark plugs are black and sooty then you have bad injectors. They can't be cleaned ultrasonic, only the replacement. If you have a dark smoke coming out of the exhaust then you have a rich mixture. This sensor plate height is a precondition for good engine running but if your injectors started dripping, leaking... then you will still have a rich mixture. You can also check them, you have a video on my channel how to do that. If this doesn't solve the issue, contact me to tell you what to do further. Best regards.
@@mercedeske Just done the measurement of the Air Flow Meter Plate which has exactly 2mm free play. Thanks so much. She has 6 fuel injectors freshly replaced two weeks ago. Fuel Distributor pressure test is normal. No dark smoke but there's unpleasant petrol-liked smell of the smoke from the exhaust. Engine has slightly idle hunting fluctuates from 600-700rpm (can see the rpm needle keeps on dancing and the engine just does not feel so smooth during idle). Would you mind to guide me further on the diagnosis of Running Rich? 24l/100km is way too high fuel consumption right?
@@mercedeske Is Lambda Sensor equals to Oxygen Sensor on the exhaust pipe? If it is so my car probably does not have one as she does not have a Catalytic Converter with an EZL-ECE trimming plug.
Hola buenas noches profesor desde España me podría explicar qué significa la placa que trae cada distribuidor y si sirve el distribuidor aunque tenga diferentes números o se puede regular
Hola, Juan. El verdadero lío se ha hecho solo con los motores M102, en cuanto a los otros motores, todo está bien. En los motores M102, se realizaron muchas modificaciones con respecto al medidor de flujo de aire, de modo que hay 2 tipos de estos medidores de flujo de aire, tanto el más antiguo como el más nuevo, por lo que es mejor combinar el tipo más antiguo de distribuidor de combustible con el medidor de flujo de aire más antiguo y el distribuidor de combustible más nuevo con el medidor de flujo de aire más nuevo porque habrá dificultades para establecer el flujo de combustible en el propio distribuidor de combustible. Saludos
27.8mm is not important. Important is the clearance of 1.9mm. You can get some other number, not 27.8 but you must get 1.9mm clearance before the plunger engages. This is something as if for example you want to measure a full suitcase😀 You measure yourself with the suitcase and afterwards you measure yourself without it. As you substract the higher and the lower number you will get how much the suitcase weights. I think you get the picture😀🙂
Quick question to the Master of Ke Jetronic : When turning screw (left or right) to adjust the duty cycle (M103 engine) from 70% there is no change. Any suggestions what the problem might be? Thank you so much for the videos, I don't think that even Bosch eng. know so much about the Ke as you do.
Hi and thanks for these praising words at first! They say that if you have a catalyst the number of 50 percent has to fluctuate around 50. If you have so high number(lean mixture) then you have an error in your system. This goes for m102 engines - if you get a reading of 70% it turns out to be the problem with the RPM-signal. That signal runs the ecu, duty cycle port x11 and everything else. It's wire located next to the EZL with two screws you will see that. Or it's up to EZL. Maybe this lead corroded and doesn't give the signal. Or the EZL is bad. As you look the round plug on the EZL on the right and you pull it out you will se bottom left it says TD. That's it. That's what I can tell. Try also the diagnostic port(8 socket should be yours) by the battery and bridge the contacts 1&3 for 3 seconds(ignition on). You should get 7 pulses. If you get them then you have a problem with the EZL. It doesn't create the rpm signal which runs the ecu and x11 socket. That's what I can tell. Best regards
I just wanted to add something to your problem of having a 70% on/off ratio and the readout is not oscillating. Mr Fix your Mercedes is correct in saying that your vehicle might have a problem with the rpm or TD signal. You can also try to use this checking method. Pull the plug from CIS-E control unit. Start the engine. Test the voltage at pin socket 25 against ground. You should be getting 6--12 volts, if not, pull off the fuel pump relay and check the line between pin socket 10 of the fuel pump relay and pin socket 25 on CIS--E control unit. Eliminate interruption if there is any and or check the line installation up to the ignition control module. I hope this helps. Cheers!!!
@@tonyreyes9969 Thank you so much for the info, will definitely check it out and come back with the result. In the mean time the strange thing is that the baby passed the emission test even with the 70%, go figure...
If noone touched that part, you don't have to. It's normally preadjusted. That's why people from Mercedes put that thing there. If you have that free play then you don't have to touch the part, measure it first. If you have to do that try using some tool that can grab that little thing from all sides around.
@@mercedeske ok but mine is pushed up the plate no spacing. Does the middle metal piece keep from touching as well if so I need that piece any idea where I can find it?
merci pour les vidéos Mercedes j'ai un gros soucis de pollution au control technique de la voiture ici en France la norme a ne pas dépasser est de 4.5% et ma Mercedes affiche 8.6% donc refuser car pollue
Bonjour et merci de visiter la chaîne. Si vous avez des chiffres trop élevés concernant la pollution la première chose que je vous recommanderai de faire est de remplacer les injecteurs ainsi que la sonde lambda. J'espère que vous résoudrez votre problème. Mes salutations
C'est quelque chose que vous devrez vérifier, mais je vous recommande de faire ce que je vous ai dit. Vérifiez le jeu libre de votre plaque de capteur, etc.
Привет и спасибо за комментарий. Сначала измерьте свободный ход сенсорной пластины. Если зазор превышает 2 мм (вы почувствуете, что сенсорная пластина движется сильнее), вам придется взять шестигранный ключ на 3 мм и повернуть его по часовой стрелке и наоборот (я надеюсь, вы знаете, что вам придется нажимать на него, и когда вы чувствую, что винт "цепляет" вы его поворачиваете). Как только вы измеряете свободный ход 1,9 мм, все. В этих условиях должна заводиться любая машина. Затем подключите мультиметр и точнее отрегулируйте винт. Если у вас есть дополнительные вопросы, просто напишите мне комментарий.
@@ДмитрийБелоусов-м9ц Добро пожаловать. Это просто. Вставьте его в круглое гнездо X11 на левом крыле. Красный провод вашего мультиметра идет под номером 3, черный - под номером 2. Это делается, как только двигатель прогреется до рабочей температуры. Горячий привет из Сербии.
@@mercedeske the whole case needs to be disassembled? My car runs great on idle and start. When warmed a bit it misfires under load. All ignition related is replaced
@@mercedeske it is catless. car has long crank when warm and hesitation under 3000rpm could be injectors leaking? Car has 380k kilometers. Idles decent, little rpm variation. Pins 2 and 3 gave ~50%. also m103 w126
This channel is about the K(E)-Jetronic system and Mercedes Benz. Any inappropriate comments as well as pornographic link are going to be removed from this channel, blocked and reported to RUclips. For all those trying to advertise themselves with pornography my advise for them is to do it on youjizz, pornhub... Don't come here with your naked links!!! Thank you!
Incredibly useful, just bought a 230TE 124, i have a feeling I'll get a lot of use out of the information you share!
Thank you from all of the younger enthusiasts!
Thanks. Glad to know. Happy Mercedesing!
Thank you so much. My Mercedes is very badly set up. I have followed this and runs lots better. I need to set potentiometer correctly now. I have donated. You know this better than any mechanic I can find. Kind regards from England!
Hello and thank you very much for your kind donation. Concerning the potentiometer you will have to set it to 0.7V while the car is warm on idle. I will post you the link in the comment but I am going to make you the video as well and give some advice more.
ruclips.net/video/IG9i6fkfPJ8/видео.html
As well as this one.
ruclips.net/video/KbJjpEYNThA/видео.html
@@mercedeske Thank you, I have a duty cycle multimeter also but some of advice I have seen is not good or not relevant due to different versions of the engines. I would also welcome advice how to use this for the w201 without an o2 sensor. The workshop manual from Haynes is completely useless and wrong. Also lots of mechanics I think don't understand how this system works. They just guess what is wrong because It's not simple like a carburettor but also you can't plug a computer in to trace faults like newer cars.
@@retrosupplystore3216 I am just editing your video. Concerning the duty cycle without the o2 sensor - stick the negative in the round diagnostic socket x11 in 2 and the positive in 3. As the engine warms up you have to get a STEADY reading of 50%, that's everything. The mechanics at the dealership know nothing. They just know to loosen and tighten the screws and that's it.
@@mercedeske thanks again, yes even independent mechanics are not easy to find who remember this system, there is no Mercedes specialist near me. Lots more understand the system on VW but because it is not quite the same this causes more problems!
@@retrosupplystore3216 Thank you. I heard that in my land there is a specialist for ke-jetronic but he won't do Mercedes vehicles, he did VW only. My father told me once that everything is different on Mercedes is comparison to other vehicles.
This guy has the best Mercedes videos on line..Thanks.
Thanks a lot, friend. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😊
Hello from Cheshire UK, my M104 SL has been laid up for 7 years , i had to change both pumps the accumulator the filter, clean the small filter on the distributor AND then it started but so much black smoke, no idle and very lumpy any ideas would be most welcome, I use your videos to give me an overall idea of what i should be doing and looking for and how things work , I thank you very much for these videos, we are not alone with good people like you to guide us.
Ho and thanks for your nice words. At first check all the rubber hoses, they can cause issue. Replace the injectors if you haven't, the potentiometer as well, lambda. That would be for the beginning. Good luck and let it be a Happy Mercedesing 😊 😃 🍀
This video is great and thank you very much. I managed to get my 1984 190e 2.0 m102 engine from 9.99% emissions down to 1.8% in the green and it's all passed now. Very informative. Louis
Glad to know that. Enjoy - Happy Mercedesing!
i am so appreciate you about thing and secrets no one tell us about it ,great engineer
Thanks a lot. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 😊 😃
Bravo. God bless you for making this content which will help so many people. You have made things very easy.
Thanks a lot 👏🏻 🙏🏻 Happy Mercedesing 😃 🍀
Thank you for this helpful video, and congratulations on doing such a good job in a language that is foreign to you. Best regards from Canada.
My pleasure. Greetings to you there in 🇨🇦 🍁 and Happy Mercedesing 😊 😃
@@mercedeske I don’t actually have a Mercedes, but I watch your videos because my Testarossa has K-Jetronic. 🚗
@@lebojay Yes, I know. Watch my videos and you can save a lot of money because the working principle is the same!
@@lebojay Tell me one thing. Is it expensive owning a Testarossa?(the consumption not included in the question 🙂)
@@mercedeske Sorry I didn’t see your question earlier and am only replying now.
It is pretty expensive. The engine has to come out for many types of service, and there are twelve cylinders and 48 valves to look after. I’d say about EUR 5000 every year to maintain a very healthy car. I mean on average. You may go two years spending only EUR 500, but then get a very big bill for something.
When you buy one - like any used car - it will need some fixing, so add EUR 15-20000 for all the missed maintenance the previous owner left for you.
But I think Testarossas are increasing in value by about EUR 10000 a year, maybe more, so it doesn’t bother me. If the Testarossa was not increasing in value quickly I would not have bought one. I am thinking about the total amount of money it will cost me to own this car for a few years. In the end, I expect to get paid to own this car for 5 years. 😉 🏁
Thank you for your informative video. It helped me understand the fuel injection system
Thanks a lot, glad it helped and Happy Mercedesing!
Hey, you probably have seen my other comments about my cold start issue and its now finally resolved, my sensor plate needed to be adjusted and then i calibrated my aftermarket potentiometer to 0.6volts and now its working perfect
My plate is now 25.5mm and then +2.0mm freeplay
Great! Nice to hear that. Happy Mercedesing!
I really learned a lot of information thanks to you. I will offer you my loyalty as soon as possible
Thank you very much 😊
Awesome video! helped me a lot, thanks a lot!
My pleasure 😊 Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😃
Hello Sir and thank you. I have a MB 190-E, 2.3, 1988. It takes about 2 minutes of constant cranking to start, regardless of hot or cold. I have replaced the cold start fuel injector and the fuel distributor by the carburetor and a new fuel pump and filter. Once it is running it is fine. I am going to try this and see if it works. This is something I never considered. I GREATLY appreciate what you make available and your obvious expertise. If you have any other suggestion I (and I beet many others) would love to know about them. Best regards, John
Hello and thanks for the nice words. Try observing the mixture to see if it's too lean or too rich(put the multimeter on the X11. Nr.2 ground, nr.3 - for the injection and try to achieve the fluctuation 6.6-7.3V). Replace the potentiometer and lambda if you haven't. That's what I can suggest. Best regards from me as well!
Great video! What if the jetronic is installed on the vehicle and you are trying to adjust it? Does it change the process? The vehicle is a 1987 SL560. Someone previously had messed with the adjustment and now I'm trying to get it in the correct position. The jetronic is installed with the air filter removed so we have direct access to it. When I use my calipers to measure the distance, like the way you show in your video, I measure 30.6 mm. The car runs but cannot hold its own idle (without pressing the accelerator) so we are thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere else. Previously, I made the adjustment rich and the measurement only went as low as 30.3 mm and wouldn't run too well so I started to lean it. Any thoughts or ideas?
Do it as in my video but bear in mind that this is just a starting point at which any car should start and the fine adjustment is done with the multimeter. Have you replaced the potentiometer?
@@mercedeske okay, thank you for responding. I don't think it has been replaced. We'll look into it.
Thank you for the explanation! I currently own a 190e with m102 and I have access to a dynamometer. I noticed that my m102 is running lean above 4000rpm at wide open throtle, below 4000rpm and idling its fine and I got it to the AFR I wanted. But above 4000r it suddenly runs lean, what should I check on my k jet system ?
Hi and thanks for the comment. This is how it goes - I would recommend you to check the fuel flow at full throttle. This is done with the engine off, of course. Find 4 clean bottles and measure your fuel flow with the sensor plate fully deflected. You must get 100ml in one minute per section. So 400ml per minute and the difference between the cylinders must be 10ml at most. Also check your mixture adjustment. You must be around 50% at 2000RPM(on the X11) or 0Amps +/-3 mAmps at the EHA valve. Hope you solve the issue, finger crossed!
Hi from Estonia. I have a m103 w124 mb. Not working well 😀 My question is about k jet sensor plate move. I turn the ignition on and press the sensorplate with finger to move down. It moves much harder than, the ig is not on.
Hi. That's because the engine builds up pressure then. Does the engine work bad or? You can send me the video on my fb page.
Very applicable to the Volvo 240 Kjet Systems!
Thankyou for the video!
H
🍀🍀🍀💪🏻👍🏻
Hi, i have a problem with mu 230e engine m.102980...it seems that the co2 screw is brokern. I dissaswmbly the body in wich the lambda plate is but i can not reach the threaded part inside
The part in wich the screw gets in for regulation. I think i broke something
I need help
Send me the video on my facebook page(link in the description)
ivinca can you pls clarify the position of the plunger when the engine is on idle? if the no operation position is 1.9 mm between the plunger and the co screw then is this position retained during idle? then the plunger has a tiny hole through which the idle fuel go in..when thr plunger is set by the recess of 0.6mm is this hole closed by the plunger? bosch refers to this setting to cold and hot start problems.my car runs now but i have hot start issues and it maybe related to this idle hole
This no operation position, this gap that the sensor plate must have doesn't mean that the sensor plate is going to fall, it's going to be in its rest position.
Thank you for this video! Does the 1,9mm also apply for adjusting the sensor plate in a K-Jetronic or only the KE-Jetronic?
Yes, it does but if you don't have to do this don't do it, because you will have a hard time to set the mixture properly on a K-Jetronic.
@@mercedeske Thanks for the reply! Well, I think I'm gonna have that problem anyway since I'll have to rebuild the fuel distributor. Do you have any tips on how to set the mixture properly?
Great video but I have tried to set it in my car but it sometimes suddenly stop the engine what could it be ??
Thanks. Bear in mind that this is just a starting value, the condition under which any car should start. For all other fine adjustments use your multimeter and inform yourself about the nominal values of your car considering the EHA
Hello from Greece, first I would like to thank you for your advices to fix our problems on our mercedes w201. I'd appreciate if you could tell me what's the right way to clean the ke jetronic system... For example can I use spray cleaner for throttle?? Thank you..
Hello and thanks. Yes you can use carb cleaner for the throttle or break cleaner, what ever you like. Happy Mercedesing 🍀
@@mercedeske can I use the carb cleaner during the engine is running and give some revs? Thanks...
Can the freeplay be the reason for stalling when coming to a stop? RPM drops to 500 and engine shakes for a quick second. Then it either stalls or jumps to 1000.
Many thanks
No but I know this problem. This can happen when downshifting as well. It can be either the ECU or some of the sensors, maybe the EHA as well. It happens that the ECU doesn't react on time and doesn't get the engine back to the idle phase. From my experience all the sensors are just SWITCHES and they don't go bad except of the potentiometer which has to be replaced every 150k km(approx.100k miles).
@@mercedeske I've fixed it by myself. It was the screw on the ICV. The screw sets the rpm from where the ICV takes the load of falling RPM. It was tight. I've unscrewed it a bit and now the ICV hooks the falling rpm at about 1000-1200rpm and helps it get to 700-800. The tight screw was maybe under 500rpm hooking point. But the engine cant stay on at that speed.
@@adanthedriver1982 Great! Glad to know that!
@@mercedeske these are old engines but we learn new stuff everyday
@@adanthedriver1982 Of course. Long we live, long we learn....😃
hello ivica, my name is juan. for mercedes sl 500 r129 with injection that would also be 1.9mm adjustment.?
Hello, Juan. Yes, and then you will have to fine tune the mixture once the car reaches operating temperature.
The plunger on my 230E kjet, is held in by a clip, which allows it to be withdrawn simply by bending the clip. The effect of this is that the plunger rests against the venturi mechanism and there is no freeplay. It starts no problem.
Hi! I love your videos. I am learning really a lot here. I have a question. I have a Porsche 928s with a K Jetronics system. It doesnt start anymore unless I spray quick start in the inlet. The previous owner tampered with the mixture screw. I tried setting it up just like you do in another video: I removed one fuel line, bridged fuel pump and started turn clockwise. I see fuel coming out and set it half turn back. The car then started. But when I turn it off, it wont start anymore. I dont know why its not starting.... I feel the plate but it has no play, like you mention on 4:00 in your video. Can I just turn it counter clockwise a lot? I am afraid I will turn the screw out of system. Thanks!
Hi. try making the mixture leaner, that can help but don't go too much, 2 mills counterclockwise won't do any harm. Try to get a free play just for a bit.
@@mercedeske Thanks! It is now running again. I will let it sit for a day and see if it starts tomorrow as well!
@@bgrts Fingers crossed 🤞🏻
@@mercedeske `Hi Ivica, I already checked because it was 6 hours since I last started it. It started very rough, and after about 5 minutes it started to settle and have an idle of about 550 rpm. Any advice on that difficult 5 first minutes?
tank you for your answer i wil be next week with my car and i wil test that
So mine is broken off and when I manually push the valve in I can get mine to start. I'm guessing it being broken is my problem
If the plate is broken you will have to replace the whole unit!
Hi I have 1995 380se fuel.pump replaced and filter replaced fuel coming to distributor but no start if I spray in air meter plate direct it starts
Where can I start
Hello. Tell me whether you have been doing anything on the system? Any modifications, turning the CO-screw, etc.?
So we have to push down on the screw to make adjustments? It does nothing if you don’t push down?
Thank you for the information. My Mercedes 190e 2.0 was running very badly when I got it and I have been struggling to fix it. I will try this tomorrow and let you know. It definitely is out of specification from what you are telling me. I have gone through the ignition system entirely and it has helped a lot but it deinitely has a misfire or something similar. I have a lot to do yet but everytime I do something it improves and hopefully this will help. Thank you.
My pleasure. If you have misfires try checking your injectors(if the ignition is ok as you say). Greetings
@@mercedeske yes I will try adjusting the system tomorrow, followed by fuel filter (this was on my service list anyway) then the injectors and fuel pump pressure test. I will not be able to do the injectors and pressure test myself so I want to do as much as I can without professional help. Thank you for your reply!
@@JMc.D Always. Concerning the injectors - just switch the ignition on after turning the fuel pump to run constantly, press the sensor plate for a while(some 10 seconds) and then observe if they drip. If they do - that's their END OF DUTY!!!
@@mercedeske thank you I will try this! 👍👍👍👍
Any updates?
Does this apply to K Jetronic as well?
Yes, it does. K-Jetronic is much more sensitive on the screw adjustments, so I would be careful here and there is no way you can monitor the ideal adjustment other than a gas analyzer. This screw will have to be readjusted only if someone has been messing around with it. If you know for sure that no-one has been adjusting the co screw, don't readjust it. Greetings
Thank you for the video. If I change the free play from 1.9mm to 1.5mm will the volts on potentiometer change (0.7v)?
My pleasure. Yes. Check the voltage on the potentiometer.
@@mercedeske Thank you and A HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Thank you Rune. Happy new year 🎉 ✨ happy Mercedesing and best wishes to you.😃
Hello From Australia. What is the Measurement for a Mercedes w126 500 se.........???????????
Hello. The same one, it's universal. If you know that no-one before has done this don't do this because there were many of people here telling me that their engine started running worse as they set the gap to 1.9mm. As I have said it's just a starting point each fine adjustment is done on the eha measuring mAmps
Thanks i try this🎉
Bona fortuna!(good luck) :D
Selamlar bizim garaj da w 123 var e 230 jetronik sisteme sahiptir benzin ponpasını ve filtresini değiştim benzin tankinın içindeki eski yakıtı temizledim tüm hortumlarıni yeniledim ve benzin ponpası çalışamadı benzin relay ini tamir etim ve araç çalıştı sonra söndü rolantide brakinca çalışıyor pedala basınca sönüyor ve benzin yemez ne olabilir
Selamlar. Isınma regülatörünü kontrol ettiniz mi? Bu bir basınç göstergesi ile yapılır. İki hattı olan bir manometre, hattı açmak veya kapatmak için bir kulp ve iki basınçtaki farkı izlemek için bir manometre yapmalısınız. Muhtemelen ısınma regülatörünün yeniden yapılması gerekecekti.
So you have to push down to turn the screw? Idle mixture and sensor plate is same adjustment?
Yes it is.
Great video!
Thanks a lot 👏🏻 😊👍🏻
Hello, first thanks a lot for your video. I just bought an audi 80 b4 with the NG 2.3E motor and she struggles a bit to start up no matter if cold or warm. Do you think I need to fine tune the CO screw ? Thanks !
Don't touch the CO-screw. At first check the condition of the injectors, the ignition, vacuum leaks, potentiometer and then check if you have the free play as you pull up the sensor plate or not then you can adjust the co screw if you know for sure that nobody has been readjusting it.
@@mercedeske Hi ivica, my audi 2.3 ng had a distributor fail, i swapped the distributor block from a different engine but not the sensor plate mechanism. my car runs too rich now, strong smell of gasoline but overall sounds good, can i adjust the air fuel screw slightly and eyeball it so i can pass the technical inspection for exhaust gases?
Hi. I have a 86 420SEL. My fuel distributor was leaking gas from where the gasket seal is. It was running good but I always smelled gas fumes so that's when I found the gas leak. I don't want to have to take it apart but can I just tighten the 3 screws on top instead of taking it apart to replace the gasket seal. I'm afraid it would do more harm. What do you recommend?
Thanks
The only part on the fuel distributor you can replace without taking it apart is the seal ring as well as the o-ring which it rests on as you unscrew the 3 screws holding it. For everything else you will have to disassemble the fuel distributor if there are leaks. If replacing the seal ring on which the plunger rests measure the distance from the nut(is has to be 0.6mm). The seal ring costs at the dealership 12€ as far as I know.
Poštovanje Ivice ,stelovao sam odnos mesavine goriva i vazduha na osnovu vaseg videa posto je potrosnja bila ogromna i sve je ok ali jutros se auto ugasio ustanovio sam da je izgoreo relej pumpe goriva ,i kada prespojim da probam pumpu na ona dva pina pumpa ce cuje kao da jedva okrece i topi zicu tu gde je prespojeno na kucistu releja.Imam samo pitanje da li je moguce da je crkla pumpa posto sam maksimalno smanjio mesavinu goriva i vazduha ,jel bunilo me je i ranije u toku rada u autu je se cula kako zuji ,a najvise sam stelovao sto je potrosnja benzina bila preko 20 l i neko je to cackao pre mene to znam sigurno.
Zdravo. Pumpa ne može da crkne zbog smanjene smeše. Ona je čisto dotrajala. Pumpa strada ili zbog rada na prazno(nestanak goriva) ili zbog konstantne vožnje na rezervi. Pozdrav
Hvala puno na odgovoru menjam je posle pa ce da vidimo
brate ziv i zdrav bio, samo daj za nas srbe sto neznamo englski vise klipova na srpskom, ziv i zdrav bio, pozdrav.
Imas plejlistu na kanalu.Ka--Glava, snimci na srpskom.
@@mercedeske Znam prijatelju gledao sam ih, samo je manje stvari objasnjeno nego sto si snimio na klipovima na engleskom, daj ti na nasem a njima prevod pa nek se oni pate a ne mi :) PS. Hvala ti za nesebicno sirenje znaja i ucenja nas mucenika sa Ka glavom.
@@mercedeske Jel imas fb profil?
@@aleksandar4986 Radio bih, ali mnogo malo ljudi pogleda moje klipove u odnosu na one sto su na engleskom. Reci sta bi voleo da snimim i ja cu da snimim na srpskom.
Thanks for the information brother
Anytime and always 😉😃😀
Okay I did this adjustment but I pushed the Allen screw all the way down while turning it clockwise. The engine died when I turned it too far. It wouldn’t start after that so I went back to the original position I had it. So from your video it says don’t push the screw down while adjusting it, just turn it without pushing down?
I meant as you "catch" the screw not to push down because you are going to deflect the sensor plate and stall the car.
Exactly the info. I was looking for. Thank you.
My pleasure
Excellent video 👍💗 thank you our friend
Thank you, too. Happy Mercedesing 😃
How much effect does turning the screw have on the Freeplay of the plate I previously messed with the screw on someone elses advice and advice and is running not so great it's spitting out fuel. I am getting an aftermarket lambda sensor fitted as mine doesn't have one but in the meantime, I want to get it to that 1.9mm baseline as suggested in your video. Though it seems to be at 1.9mm Freeplay no matter what way I turn it doesn't seem to have an effect on the sensor plate Freeplay. I went for a gentle push halfway down and turned it a few times clockwise and it doesn't seem to have moved at all I was trying to get it to no Freeplay so I could get an accurate distance between bar and plate.
Any advice?
Mercedes-benz 190e 1990
Thank you for the information so far I have been looking for a source of information for baseline setting for weeks.
Hi. Turning the screw has a big effect because by turning it you move a lever that pushes the plunger inside the fuel distributor. The more you turn the screw clockwise, the more the lever moves towards the plunger and pushes it eventually. If you set the distance to 1.9mm and the car starts then just hook up the multimeter and fine tune the mixture.
Hi my w201 1.8 Mercedes dont start but when i push that plate in ke-jetronic it start but turn off when not push that plate
Do the initial mixture adjustment. Remove one metal line, bridge the fuel pump relay to make the pump run continuously and start turning the screw clockwise - once you see fuel coming out stop and turn the mixture screw or half a turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Under these conditions each car must start.
@@mercedeske okey thanks Mercedes. I find air leak to in rupper in k-jektronic bottom rupper one hole i have new rupper to make that to but I think it have 2 problems rubber and other thanks
@@mercedeske sorry bad English I am from Finland.
Hi. I have a w124 with the m104 engine. It has a very high fuel economy, probably around 1,7 liters per 10 kilometers. I have checked the clerance and it is 1,2 mm. Do you have some tips to get the fuel economy down?
Yes. Check the sensors(lambda, potentiometer, coolant temperature sensor), check the while mechanical part of the system(measure pressures with the pressure gauge, injectors, pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator...) and then tune up the car(set the mixture).
Hi there , great contribution to the Mercedes classic community. 👌 I have a 190E 2.0 which was running very bad, I had a spare engine from japan so swapped the whole fuel distributor and now it runs great. But on idle its smoking black and I can smell unburnt fuel. What shall I check does turning anti clock wise make it leaner and clockwise means more fuel?
Hi and thanks. Yes, turning clockwise makes the mixture rich.
Great video. My injectors spray full when contact with sensor plate. When off sensor injectors stop spraying. Car will not start as I think this causes flooding. Any tips?
The injectors have to be spraying non-stop. If your rubber under the sensor plate is full of fuel then you should consider replacing the seal ring in the distributor.
Thanks for the video. One question: I just rebuild the fuel distributor and now my 300sl r129 is running to rich is throwing white smoke thru the exhaust. Any suggestion please?
Hi. White smoke means antifreeze combustion as far as I know. Check your head gasket. When the engine is running too rich usually you should see black spark plugs and a black smoke out of the exhaust. For a correct mixture you will be needing 2 multimeters - one for duty cycle(%( and the second one on the eha(miliamps). At first check your spark plugs and the antifreeze level. That's what I can advise you. Greetings
@@mercedeske thanks in advance for your fast response. The head gasket and compression are fine the smoke smells a raw gasoline and itching the eyes. The spark plugs are black as running to rich. I just measure the nut of the barrel and has more than 0.6 mm. It has 0.9 mm.
@@carloshumbertocazenavescaz4595 There...
I have a 1.8 m102. If i put a turbo on it, can i then adjust it clockwise to give more fuel? If turbo of course
Of course, this is just an initial adjustment for the engine to be started and to work. If you put turbo I would recommend you to make mixture enrichment(eha current not less than-3mA) plus, If you decide that, R17 resistor trimming plug by the ecu at position 7. I would also advise you to buy pulstar spark plugs which work on plasma, if you ask me that would be a MUST!
Hier is the link about those plugs how to search for them if you decide.
m.ruclips.net/video/aGMoFEBNdxA/видео.html
Great Video 👍 thanks
My pleasure - Happy Mercedesing 😀
Excellent video! You deserve more subscribers!
Thanks, man, I'll try as much as I can!👍👌🍀🍀🍀
Hi máster,
Please if you know how to make fhe same think, bit in the flow meter of Audi 80, 2,2L motor from 1994. It hasn't this 3 mm. CO regulación bolt. I looked for it, bit don't exists. The flow meter seems the same.
Hi, thanks for the comment. The only thing I know about Audi is that the sensor plate moves upwards in comparison to Mercedes where it goes downwards
Nice chanel Nice man lots of experience.
Thanks a lot.
Happy Mercedesing 😃
My 560sec climate control is given weak air and once this issue begins I noticed the fuel economy guage is on middle while car on idle rpm.where should I start to find the solution?
Maybe you should try to repair the a/c. I don't drive a car with the climate but I would say it has something to do with the a/c. This is my guess only😃
Hi, congratulations on the excellent sharing! This is indeed important.I ask a question, I have a w124, with the m102 engine and ke jetronic injection, from 1989. It has a problem, I normally change gears and when I have to brake at an intersection, almost before stopping, the rotation lowers so much that the engine shuts down. I have researched so much about this that I can't figure out what it is. Can you help me? Tks
Hi, thanks. At first tell me how many miles(or kms) you have on the clock?(I think I know what it is about)
@@mercedeske 138000 km real!
Do you have problems when starting the car cold?(the engine raises the revs and dies)
@@mercedeske no. the car starts normaly.
Do you have issues when turning wheels from lock to lock?
My car consum alot of fuel the mechanical adjust this screw and after that the problem began what your thoughts/ sorry for bad English
The mechanic made a rich mixture. Move the screw counterclockwise for 2mm and I repeat TWO MILLIMETERS, wait for about 10 seconds and press rapidly the accelerator. If you have lambda then send me the comment to tell you exactly what to do.
@@mercedeske thank you very very much i did what you've told me and it consum much less fuel
Man you made my day ❤️
@@nabeelsalam7764 Glad to know that. Happy Mercedesing 😃 😊 🍀💪🏻👍
How can you mesure 1,9mm? The scale on the meter is only per mm and not 1/10 mm. When you mesure the depth, you mention 27,8mm, but I only can read 28mm (2,8cm) on your meter. Is there a more precise manner to mesure the depth in tenth of a mm? Kind regards
You need a caliper, it measures tenths of mm. At first measure the distance from the "brigde" to the sensor plate, afterwards add 1.9mm to that value and you will get the value you need. If the plate has already started deflecting the plate as you add 1.9mm and measure with the caliper from the bridge, turn counterclockwise and vice-versa.
@@mercedeske Thank you for your answer 👍. But I cannot find a caliper with indication of tenth of a millimeters. Only calipers with indication of millimeters, like yours… That’s my only concern..
Thanks!
Thank you as well. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 😊 😃
@@mercedeske If I had an extra couple of thousands, I would have sent that. You are too kind. Thanks!
@@williamharrell4283 This is quite enough 👍🏻😉
Hi, does this work in a W123 engine 110.988 or just on w124, I've been trying to get this clearance moving the screw CCW but I don't see it moves
If you know for sure that this screw has never been readjusted on your car don't turn it because on the K-Jetronic it's very hard to set the correct mixture, the only way is to use the exhaust gas analyzer. If you know for how much you turned the screw ccw then get it back if no improvements. The screw is very sensitive and requires TINY movements. I can advise you to flush the whole unit but for that action you will have to take it off the car.
One more thing, go to my Instagram page, there you will see how a problem with a "stuck" plate is solved.
@@mercedeske Thanks for your answer, yes the screw was readjusted but I don't know how much, now the whole system drops fuel without even turning the ignition key, I think the control plunger is up so the fuel goes just straight. How can I flush the system, I have been watching your videos that are very interesting, but I only found information about the KE, and not for the k. Or how will be the best way to stop the fuel as it seems it goes straight to the engine it tough to move the screw ccw as you do it with the KE system but as I told it did not work my idea was to make the mix leaner to the point to stop the fuel to go to the injectors but it is not working that method. What other options would you recommend? . I will start to follow you on Instagram well, hope I will manage to start the engine and fix my problem.
@@julianmunoz2611 ruclips.net/video/U4g67lWwJ0c/видео.html
Maybe this video helps you solve your problem.
Very good help!
Thanks. I'm glad to help you! Happy Mercedesing
Does this prevent a car from starting if it's not correct?pls I want an answer imediatly?
It's not going to prevent the car from starting, you will manage to start the car but you will have a bad idle. The revs are going to be either too high or the car is going to shake on idle and you will have a bad throttle response. If you have never adjusted the mixture screw or you know for sure that no one has done it, don't turn it, not even for a 16th of a turn!
Pozdrav!
Svaka čast na kanalu i sve pohvale
Da li mogu titlovi na hr (srb)
Hvala puno i veliki pozdrav. Ja uvek ostavljam titlove - idi na auto translate i samo nađi hr i izbaciće ti prevod. Veliki pozdrav još jednom.
@@mercedeske
Hvala lijepa i veliki uspjeh
@@ivanmoric890 Hvala puno. Sve najbolje.
i have an 190 e von 82 en and there comes an little feul from the feul distribitur how we can increase that
On the co screw. Did you get the play on the sensor plate(1.9mm)?
tres bon tuto , et cela fonctionne , ma voiture à retrouve les chevaux
Content de l'entendre. Je vous souhaite une agréable balade pour les années à venir.😃👍🏻💪🏻🍀
Thanks for sharing 👍
Was my pleasure. Greetings and best regards
Profesor tengo otra pregunta cuánto tiene que medir en reposo en ohmios el sensor de posición de aire muchas gracias y un saludo
Eso depende. El original de Bosch puede llegar hasta los 12 kiloohmios. Los nuevos funcionan con menor resistencia, hasta 3 kiloohmios, pero siguen funcionando muy bien.
Muchas gracias
great video ...thank you very much
My pleasure 😊Happy Mercedesing 😃
i have a 1989 sl 560 i guess iwould need some help from you sometimes ...but for the time being iam having a problem with idle control valve is it possible to clean it with carburator cleaner ??? thank you dear
Yes it is, but remove it from the car at first and then turn it upside down and spray it with the cleaner. Afterwards clean it with q-tips.
@@mercedeske thank you so much dear will let you know in couple of days ...best regards
hello dear i fixed the ICV idle control valve its much better after cleaning and very accurate BUT ...since i messed up previously with air flow meter ... i cant get the right tuning a little bit of black smoke comes out from thr exhaust ...would you be able to help me please ...bytheway iam not a mechanic ...its just a passion to my classic mercedes ...thank you for your help at all times
Hi many thanks for sharing this very useful video. Just a quick question: how can I determine how much free play is allowed on the plate for the first measurement when the caliper comes in (which you get in the video is 27.8mm)?
Or I could just do closewise turn all the way until there's no any free play, then I start to do measurements by caliper?
BTW, my 91 300se is running extremely rich, about 24L/100km (city mostly) .I had visited a couple of mechanic and no one could really solve the problem. I am dying to see this can be addressed one day. May I know if the air sensor tuning possible to make my 300se runs leaner?
Best Regards and keep those good works coming :)
Hi and thanks for kind words. The free play should be 1-3mm, ideally 1.9. Take a caliper and measure your distance from above to the sensor plate. Then add 1.9mm and that's the place where the free play must be over, from that point the plate should start going harder. Now, as for the reach mixture - if your car has more than 120k miles consider checking your injectors. You could also replace them. If the car shakes on idle and when pressing the accelerator then it's up to the injectors. If the spark plugs are black and sooty then you have bad injectors. They can't be cleaned ultrasonic, only the replacement. If you have a dark smoke coming out of the exhaust then you have a rich mixture. This sensor plate height is a precondition for good engine running but if your injectors started dripping, leaking... then you will still have a rich mixture. You can also check them, you have a video on my channel how to do that. If this doesn't solve the issue, contact me to tell you what to do further. Best regards.
@@mercedeske Just done the measurement of the Air Flow Meter Plate which has exactly 2mm free play. Thanks so much.
She has 6 fuel injectors freshly replaced two weeks ago. Fuel Distributor pressure test is normal. No dark smoke but there's unpleasant petrol-liked smell of the smoke from the exhaust. Engine has slightly idle hunting fluctuates from 600-700rpm (can see the rpm needle keeps on dancing and the engine just does not feel so smooth during idle).
Would you mind to guide me further on the diagnosis of Running Rich? 24l/100km is way too high fuel consumption right?
@@pasarborongss7729 Have you replaced the lambda sensor?
@@mercedeske Is Lambda Sensor equals to Oxygen Sensor on the exhaust pipe? If it is so my car probably does not have one as she does not have a Catalytic Converter with an EZL-ECE trimming plug.
Then you have none. How many kms/miles do you have on the clock?
❤
Hola buenas noches profesor desde España me podría explicar qué significa la placa que trae cada distribuidor y si sirve el distribuidor aunque tenga diferentes números o se puede regular
Hola, Juan. El verdadero lío se ha hecho solo con los motores M102, en cuanto a los otros motores, todo está bien. En los motores M102, se realizaron muchas modificaciones con respecto al medidor de flujo de aire, de modo que hay 2 tipos de estos medidores de flujo de aire, tanto el más antiguo como el más nuevo, por lo que es mejor combinar el tipo más antiguo de distribuidor de combustible con el medidor de flujo de aire más antiguo y el distribuidor de combustible más nuevo con el medidor de flujo de aire más nuevo porque habrá dificultades para establecer el flujo de combustible en el propio distribuidor de combustible. Saludos
Hello, is it the same with an M103 (260E)?
27.8mm and 1.9mm?
27.8mm is not important. Important is the clearance of 1.9mm. You can get some other number, not 27.8 but you must get 1.9mm clearance before the plunger engages. This is something as if for example you want to measure a full suitcase😀 You measure yourself with the suitcase and afterwards you measure yourself without it. As you substract the higher and the lower number you will get how much the suitcase weights.
I think you get the picture😀🙂
Great example 😀. I got it, thank you.👍
@@pifka0764 My pleasure 🙏🏻 ☺ Happy Mercedesing 😃
Great information 👍 Muah
Thanks👍
Quick question to the Master of Ke Jetronic : When turning screw (left or right) to adjust the duty cycle (M103 engine) from 70% there is no change. Any suggestions what the problem might be? Thank you so much for the videos, I don't think that even Bosch eng. know so much about the Ke as you do.
Hi and thanks for these praising words at first! They say that if you have a catalyst the number of 50 percent has to fluctuate around 50. If you have so high number(lean mixture) then you have an error in your system. This goes for m102 engines - if you get a reading of 70% it turns out to be the problem with the RPM-signal. That signal runs the ecu, duty cycle port x11 and everything else. It's wire located next to the EZL with two screws you will see that. Or it's up to EZL. Maybe this lead corroded and doesn't give the signal. Or the EZL is bad. As you look the round plug on the EZL on the right and you pull it out you will se bottom left it says TD. That's it. That's what I can tell. Try also the diagnostic port(8 socket should be yours) by the battery and bridge the contacts 1&3 for 3 seconds(ignition on). You should get 7 pulses. If you get them then you have a problem with the EZL. It doesn't create the rpm signal which runs the ecu and x11 socket. That's what I can tell. Best regards
I just wanted to add something to your problem of having a 70% on/off ratio and the readout is not oscillating. Mr Fix your Mercedes is correct in saying that your vehicle might have a problem with the rpm or TD signal. You can also try to use this checking method. Pull the plug from CIS-E control unit. Start the engine. Test the voltage at pin socket 25 against ground. You should be getting 6--12 volts, if not, pull off the fuel pump relay and check the line between pin socket 10 of the fuel pump relay and pin socket 25 on CIS--E control unit. Eliminate interruption if there is any and or check the line installation up to the ignition control module. I hope this helps. Cheers!!!
@@tonyreyes9969 Thank you so much for the info, will definitely check it out and come back with the result. In the mean time the strange thing is that the baby passed the emission test even with the 70%, go figure...
@@danricci6996 I vaguely remember that a steady 70% reading indicates a faulty O2 sensor?
No, steady 50% - either faulty or haven't achieved working temperature. Steady 70% refers to camshaft position sensor(no RPM signal).
Thank you so much.
My pleasure 😊 Happy Mercedesing 😃
My plate it’s not coming back up it stays down when I push it, do you know how I can fix it?
When you turn the ignition on does it come back up?
I got same problem. My sensor plate stuck. When i turn on ignition. it doesnt back up. Help😔
@@ainuddinkamarudin2641 Try disassembling it and cleaning it, check it the spring is preloaded.
@@mercedeske Please how do I check the spring is preloaded?
instagram.com/p/CS-O7L3qP0t/
Grazie.
Prego. Grazie a te!👍🏻🍻🍀🍀🍀😃💪🏻
Your explanation is excellent, but please work on the photography
Ok, thanks.
Hello how do I take out the little ball in mine where i do the adjustment.
Also I’m missing the metal pieces that goes across the sensor plate any idea where I can find it?
If noone touched that part, you don't have to. It's normally preadjusted. That's why people from Mercedes put that thing there. If you have that free play then you don't have to touch the part, measure it first. If you have to do that try using some tool that can grab that little thing from all sides around.
@@mercedeske ok but mine is pushed up the plate no spacing. Does the middle metal piece keep from touching as well if so I need that piece any idea where I can find it?
@@aaronflores529 No, I can't tell.
@@mercedeske do you know what it is called
merci pour les vidéos Mercedes j'ai un gros soucis de pollution au control technique de la voiture ici en France la norme a ne pas dépasser est de 4.5% et ma Mercedes affiche 8.6% donc refuser car pollue
Bonjour et merci de visiter la chaîne. Si vous avez des chiffres trop élevés concernant la pollution la première chose que je vous recommanderai de faire est de remplacer les injecteurs ainsi que la sonde lambda. J'espère que vous résoudrez votre problème. Mes salutations
@@mercedeske elle n’est pas catalyser par contre j’ai de l’essence dans le débitmètre
Remplacez les injecteurs et je dirais que vous avez un mélange trop riche. Si vous avez réajusté la vis CO, rendez-la un peu plus maigre.
@@mercedeske j’ai de l’essence dans le corps d’air peu être la membrane du distributeur qui est percée
C'est quelque chose que vous devrez vérifier, mais je vous recommande de faire ce que je vous ai dit. Vérifiez le jeu libre de votre plaque de capteur, etc.
👍
Hola profesor le mando este mensaje desde España quiero saber si puede hacer el favor de poner este vídeo en español muchas gracias
Hola. Saludos por España. Me voy hacer este video en español.
Thanks
You are welcome 😊
Я вас приветствую. Подскажите как отрегулировать со. Мерс 102 мотор. Объем 18. За раннее спасибо.
Привет и спасибо за комментарий. Сначала измерьте свободный ход сенсорной пластины. Если зазор превышает 2 мм (вы почувствуете, что сенсорная пластина движется сильнее), вам придется взять шестигранный ключ на 3 мм и повернуть его по часовой стрелке и наоборот (я надеюсь, вы знаете, что вам придется нажимать на него, и когда вы чувствую, что винт "цепляет" вы его поворачиваете). Как только вы измеряете свободный ход 1,9 мм, все. В этих условиях должна заводиться любая машина. Затем подключите мультиметр и точнее отрегулируйте винт. Если у вас есть дополнительные вопросы, просто напишите мне комментарий.
Спасибо за ответ. А как . И куда подсоединить мультиметр. Если можно схему. За ранее спасибо.
@@ДмитрийБелоусов-м9ц Добро пожаловать. Это просто. Вставьте его в круглое гнездо X11 на левом крыле. Красный провод вашего мультиметра идет под номером 3, черный - под номером 2. Это делается, как только двигатель прогреется до рабочей температуры. Горячий привет из Сербии.
@@mercedeske добрый вечер. А каких пораметров добиваться? И на что выставлять мультиметр. Вольты? Или?
И вам привет. Из Казахстана
Buenos días desde España espero su respuesta
Buenos dias. Saludos desde Serbia.
Adonde sepuede consegir un juego de gomas y la membrana del cabeza de Mercedes 230 cuatro cilindros
ebay
it is not cleer where 1,9mm was measured.From this side it was necessary to measure so that it was clear...
Buenos días amigo yo tengo un mersedes Benz 1990. 420 SEL. Seapaga y vato para prender ke ago
No entiendo. Que significa "vato para prender?"
Veliki pozdrav Ivica. Mogu li dobiti neki kontakt , E-mail ili broj mobitela da vam objasnim moj problem sa M103B26?
schilleryu@yahoo.com
My screw doesnt do anything. Turned it clockwise even 30times and no difference
Then it's bad, it doesn't catch the lever, it slips.
@@mercedeske the whole case needs to be disassembled? My car runs great on idle and start. When warmed a bit it misfires under load. All ignition related is replaced
Have you replaced the O2 sensor?
@@mercedeske it is catless. car has long crank when warm and hesitation under 3000rpm could be injectors leaking? Car has 380k kilometers. Idles decent, little rpm variation. Pins 2 and 3 gave ~50%. also m103 w126
Check the fuel accumulator as well as the potentiometer.
My car is smelling petrol and not starting as you say
What did you check on the system?
I check the fuel pump the coil and the spark plugs they were black also with petrol
Minuto 7
Mozes li mi odgovoriti na insta,ako mozes da mi pomognes?
Ok, nije problem
@@mercedeske hvala drug
help anybody in the states? need mech help in Connecticut
What's wrong with the car and which car do you have?
@@mercedeske 83 380sl, starts when spray in throttle body but wont stay running. need help in CT
Bro, each guy needs a different woman
Hello, I have a 260E model M103 engine vehicle. It does not start without pressing the gas pedal. What is the reason?
One of the reasons can be the CO screw turned too much counterclockwise or clockwise.
@@mercedeske Is the CO screw on the eha valve or is it the idle adjustment screw?
Thanks!
My pleasure 😊 Happy Mercedesing 😃