I (and most of my friends) have been using this setup for several years now (Slyde plate + about 2.3 metres of 9mm dynamic rope). Very easy to use, much safer than a carabiner + static sling, and adjustable so you can pick a comfortable position. At no point are you relying on only one anchor, as you remain on belay the whole time as the rope is doubled through the ring or the staples.
Why is this safer than using two longer sling draws off the anchors? Rope still passes through anchor whole time and never untied until re-secured anyhow...
@@skimattic The theory is that slings, being static, are more likely to break if you happen to fall on them. Having a dynamic rope as part of your PAS protects against that weakness of slings.
Seems like it adds more weight and complexity than previous PAS system. That quick way to pass the rope through the rings was pretty nifty though, might have to adopt that.
Somewhat, but if you use climbing rope it would have the advantage of being dynamic and fully adjustable. Clove hitch would be simpler than this device in many situations. PAS/chain reactor has other versatility, such as extending a rappell device.
Agree, there is no obvious reason you couldn't extend a rappel device with this. Still, would seem a bit strange, and I don't think I would be enthusiastic about it.
I emailed Kong in Dec. 2018 about whether static rope is ok to use in their Kisa, a related product. They replied, "In reference to your request, in the instruction of use it is not specified because it is not fundamental for the use. Anyway, for Kisa dynamic rope is more used and for Slyde it can be fine also a semi-static rope. As regards instead the diameter and the use of the rope, you can look at the instruction of use. -Morgana Josephine Vanalli, Customer Care | Kong S.p.A."
i guess its problematic, if your are rappeling and get to a terrace or something where you easily can stand, then there is no load on the sling and it may get adjusted unintended. But I'm pretty you won't die ;)
you would clove hitch the rap biner to the middle of the tether giving you an extended rappel PLUS tether. you tether yourself to the anchor/bolts with the kong slyde end, and set up your rappel with the middle biner, test/weigh it, and then unclip the end of the tether from the anchor/bolts and clip your belay loop (or let it dangle) and rap down. or you can girth hitch the PAS to your tie in points, and have one end be the PAS tether and the other be the extended rappel (like the Petzl Adjust). whichever setup you choose, just ensure the knots are the correct knots for the job, well dressed, and have some tail! that's the nice thing about the slyde, you can set up a PAS as you want and replace the rope when needed, unlike other products!
What stopper knot does he tie in the beginning? Looks like he's trying to tie a fisherman's but does it incorrectly... Just looks like he ties two overhands on top of each other, which is strange.
I may be late to the party but the knot that he shows is the double overhand knot. It can be used as a stopper knot ( like shown in the video) for when you don't want it to easily come undone ( unlike the single overhand knot) as a knot for the Fisherman's knot or the enhance the security of other knot e.g.: Bowline He did make a small mistake while laying it but I don't think it makes a difference strength-wise ( May come undone a bit faster)
It's not a double overhand or barrel knot as others have said. For those, you make 2 wraps and then pass the loose end through both. What he tied is as you said, 2 overhands next to each other, which is not the standard for a stopper knot.
He's probably referring to the extra ring/biner wear that lowering off the anchors entails. In many areas it is considered poor practice to lower off of fixed gear, rappelling being encouraged instead. Many sport crags have no such ethic as it is assumed the fixed gear will be replaced in a timely manner, and they prefer not to have routes clogged up waiting on rappels (also, sadly, many sport climbers don't know safe rappelling techniques). Be sure to know the preferred practice for whatever crag you're at.
I know what he was referring too, but you check for wear before you use them, so there is no reason they would ever snap. Usually, the ethics around here are not that you can't lower from fixed gear, but that you don't repeatedly use them for toproping. If you can it usually makes sense to rappel anyways
Not in Europe though. In general, lowering is prefered because it's faster and safer. But for other uses like top-rope, the use of your own carabiners it's encouraged, because that's unnecessary wear in the anchors.
It's OK as long as your partner knows you are still on belay. In the unlikely event of one of the anchors failing, you would take a lead fall to the previous bolt or piece of pro.
You would fall to the previous bolt, AND all the slack you pulled up to thread the anchors (not even including rope stretch). Also what if you slip before you've weighted your PAS shock loading the bolt? Totally unnecessary to do it this way with other systems about. A better way is to just clip a quickdraw to one bolt (so you're on belay), clove hitch it, attach your PAS, then thread. A little bit more faff but maximum safety.
Allow me to clarify, I said OK but should have said more to indicate that it is not ideal. If you're at the anchors you can probably get away with a longer fall, unless you're over a shelf/feature (as demonstrated by the "victory whipper"). You have a similar risk if you were to fall while pulling slack to clip any pro. As for shock loading an anchor with a PAS, this is always a risk with using a static leash of any type. However, I think most people would use dynamic rope with this "slyde" device. The maximally safe way is to not go climbing :-)
Excellent demonstration of how to use the Slyde as part of a PAS! I've got a couple on order now :)
No it is not!!!!!!!!!
I (and most of my friends) have been using this setup for several years now (Slyde plate + about 2.3 metres of 9mm dynamic rope).
Very easy to use, much safer than a carabiner + static sling, and adjustable so you can pick a comfortable position.
At no point are you relying on only one anchor, as you remain on belay the whole time as the rope is doubled through the ring or the staples.
Why is this safer than using two longer sling draws off the anchors? Rope still passes through anchor whole time and never untied until re-secured anyhow...
@@skimattic The theory is that slings, being static, are more likely to break if you happen to fall on them. Having a dynamic rope as part of your PAS protects against that weakness of slings.
@@zeitgeist785 How much shiock force absorption does the slyde offer in a fall?
@@dennisgarber Not sure myself. Can't remember if I ever saw a test of that function of the slyde.
The actual instructions you get with it connect the kong and carabiner to your belay loop as opposed to the anchor. Wonder if there’s any difference
Seems like it adds more weight and complexity than previous PAS system. That quick way to pass the rope through the rings was pretty nifty though, might have to adopt that.
Somewhat, but if you use climbing rope it would have the advantage of being dynamic and fully adjustable. Clove hitch would be simpler than this device in many situations. PAS/chain reactor has other versatility, such as extending a rappell device.
Yeah, this could extend a rappel too. A friend has a Petzl Connect that they like, pretty similar to this
Agree, there is no obvious reason you couldn't extend a rappel device with this. Still, would seem a bit strange, and I don't think I would be enthusiastic about it.
at the instructions paper the slyde is conected to the arness and no to the bolts
wtf he did an overhand to retie to the harness?!?!?
Does anyone know if it is obligatory to use a dynamic rope, or static rope is ok?
I emailed Kong in Dec. 2018 about whether static rope is ok to use in their Kisa, a related product. They replied, "In reference to your request, in the instruction of use it is not specified because it is not fundamental for the use. Anyway, for Kisa dynamic rope is more used and for Slyde it can be fine also a semi-static rope. As regards instead the diameter and the use of the rope, you can look at the instruction of use. -Morgana Josephine Vanalli, Customer Care | Kong S.p.A."
Carsten Jensen thank you!
can you clip a rappel device to this?
i guess its problematic, if your are rappeling and get to a terrace or something where you easily can stand, then there is no load on the sling and it may get adjusted unintended.
But I'm pretty you won't die ;)
you would clove hitch the rap biner to the middle of the tether giving you an extended rappel PLUS tether. you tether yourself to the anchor/bolts with the kong slyde end, and set up your rappel with the middle biner, test/weigh it, and then unclip the end of the tether from the anchor/bolts and clip your belay loop (or let it dangle) and rap down.
or you can girth hitch the PAS to your tie in points, and have one end be the PAS tether and the other be the extended rappel (like the Petzl Adjust).
whichever setup you choose, just ensure the knots are the correct knots for the job, well dressed, and have some tail!
that's the nice thing about the slyde, you can set up a PAS as you want and replace the rope when needed, unlike other products!
What stopper knot does he tie in the beginning? Looks like he's trying to tie a fisherman's but does it incorrectly... Just looks like he ties two overhands on top of each other, which is strange.
I was thinking the same thing. I was hoping someone would know.
I may be late to the party but the knot that he shows is the double overhand knot.
It can be used as a stopper knot ( like shown in the video) for when you don't want it to easily come undone ( unlike the single overhand knot) as a knot for the Fisherman's knot or the enhance the security of other knot e.g.: Bowline
He did make a small mistake while laying it but I don't think it makes a difference strength-wise ( May come undone a bit faster)
i think it's a barrel knot (double overhand), which is a classic "stopper knot". it's just done differently than some do it.
It's not a double overhand or barrel knot as others have said. For those, you make 2 wraps and then pass the loose end through both. What he tied is as you said, 2 overhands next to each other, which is not the standard for a stopper knot.
minuto 1:25 muy mal que se ancle primero sin haberse asegurado con la cuerda a la reunión. error grave
What's the song of the video?
belayed of the bolts? aaand they snap.
Those are rappel ring, they are made to lower from
He's probably referring to the extra ring/biner wear that lowering off the anchors entails. In many areas it is considered poor practice to lower off of fixed gear, rappelling being encouraged instead. Many sport crags have no such ethic as it is assumed the fixed gear will be replaced in a timely manner, and they prefer not to have routes clogged up waiting on rappels (also, sadly, many sport climbers don't know safe rappelling techniques). Be sure to know the preferred practice for whatever crag you're at.
I know what he was referring too, but you check for wear before you use them, so there is no reason they would ever snap. Usually, the ethics around here are not that you can't lower from fixed gear, but that you don't repeatedly use them for toproping. If you can it usually makes sense to rappel anyways
Not in Europe though. In general, lowering is prefered because it's faster and safer. But for other uses like top-rope, the use of your own carabiners it's encouraged, because that's unnecessary wear in the anchors.
Not sure I'd clip my PAS into only one bolt? Or demonstrate that to potentially novice climbers...
It's OK as long as your partner knows you are still on belay. In the unlikely event of one of the anchors failing, you would take a lead fall to the previous bolt or piece of pro.
You would fall to the previous bolt, AND all the slack you pulled up to thread the anchors (not even including rope stretch). Also what if you slip before you've weighted your PAS shock loading the bolt? Totally unnecessary to do it this way with other systems about. A better way is to just clip a quickdraw to one bolt (so you're on belay), clove hitch it, attach your PAS, then thread. A little bit more faff but maximum safety.
Allow me to clarify, I said OK but should have said more to indicate that it is not ideal. If you're at the anchors you can probably get away with a longer fall, unless you're over a shelf/feature (as demonstrated by the "victory whipper"). You have a similar risk if you were to fall while pulling slack to clip any pro. As for shock loading an anchor with a PAS, this is always a risk with using a static leash of any type. However, I think most people would use dynamic rope with this "slyde" device. The maximally safe way is to not go climbing :-)
That's why you should ideally always clip pro at waist height ;) But agreed risk management has a lot of approaches.
@@purplemonkeyelephant Yeah should defo connect to both anchor points, the rope fall would be HUGE when you pull that much slack.
at the endof the video , wrong knoth!
Big mistake Kong.
I thought i was the only one who saw that. Thats not a fig 8!!