@@hypermotardking part of the joy of engineering is solving tough problems. Every day hundreds of thousands of people climb into metal tubes to fly through the sky for hours and it's so safe it's boring. Our phones in our pockets are power efficient super computers that can reliably communicate with anyone on the planet. It's all incredible.
I’d expect it on idle as you don’t have any cool air blowing through it to dissipate the heat. It may calm down a little when the fan kicks in and the air blows through the radiator. Otherwise get a stick and some marshmallows. 😊
yeah have you watched lamb chop’s review of it with termi? He posted a review last week as Ducati Bournemouth have a demo bike with termi ruclips.net/video/3Ah4EBgb5dQ/видео.htmlsi=CSN5M_OMoFf3toPc
Ahh cool yes I’ve got a 24 plate 690 enduro R I use 99.9% on road. Standard except Wings muffler which by fitting removes the cat as it’s built into the standard muffler. I’ve ridden a demo 698 from blade Abingdon and felt it lacked that powerband punch my 690 kicks you with under hard acceleration although it might well be quicker on paper than a 690 but to me it didn’t feel it in the seat. So I’m really interested in like for like drag runs between a 690 and 698 and I saw your comparison with your mate but it wasn’t very conclusive as you got different results doing the same plus I expect you two guys weighed different weights? So atm nobody has done a proper race between the two similar bikes with equal weight riders and same state of tune? So our bikes are similar tune in that both have after market slip ons but standard airbox and standard ECU map.
i see you have like this.. aoocci? or what was it nav stuff with the cameras? Does it actually work well? is it the 9 or die 6? :D was about to get one myself but needed some info if it actually is any good :D
@@hypermotardking oh nice ill check it out then. What mounting did you pick? since im not sure how i should mount it. I dont wanna mount it just on the left side cause i feel like it might bounce alot? but if you could let me know what arm you got for it that be sweet.
Great post, love this bike! I'm assuming that this model (like most) has a conventional thermostat. These, since Euro 4, have been opening at higher temperatures (usually >5deg C.) to prevent engine knock due to the lean mixture. Maybe finding (and that's the hard bit) a stat that opens sooner, combined with ECU remap (hate piggy-back stuff with modern bikes) is the path to the best power output AND longevity from stock motors. ps Had a 4XV '99 R1 from new. Dynojet carb kit/Micron. Ran perfect and temp was always 74deg C. when riding. My 1199 Pani, 1200DVT Multi, RS1200LC, all run around 80+deg C. (and skyrocket quickly when stationary, AND they're all re-mapped!) pps Does anyone know of a respected company that makes thermostats that open around 5-10deg C. sooner? ppps I'm assuming race bikes still remove thermostats?
@@wetleyrocks3092 Yeah I remember remap tools like woolich can bring the opening thermostat temps lower - a full flash for this new bike is taking longer than normal
my husq 701 had it too . i took the bike to a dyno guy and he wrote a map for it , imo the only way to go to get max out of performnance and let it run much richer then this euro 5 nonesense will
so, is there a solution for it? i am living in a very warm climate, it is always glowing, the only solution is do not stop, to let the air cool it down.
@@mohamedaljazairi3892 you have to be going full throttle to use the “open loop” then you won’t get this.. When idling/riding slowly in traffic it will happen to a degree and using that fuel dongle and blocking the secondary air system will reduce the temps..
You got to get rid of the catalytic converter that's the only way and then remap it. I bought a 91 KX250 back in the late nineties this bike had been sitting for some time but the guy told me it ran great. And it did after I cleared the mouse out of the silencer,😅 I was kicking that bike for hours trying to get it to start. Fat Mouse had thoroughly packed that silencer and part of the pipe.
Don't worry about it, engines are engineered with this in mind and Ducati know what they're doing.
All fun and games until your right thigh get barbecued and you smell plastic melting.
@@sabamacx Manufacturers have regulations to adhere to so it’s a pain for them too
@@hypermotardking part of the joy of engineering is solving tough problems. Every day hundreds of thousands of people climb into metal tubes to fly through the sky for hours and it's so safe it's boring. Our phones in our pockets are power efficient super computers that can reliably communicate with anyone on the planet. It's all incredible.
I’d expect it on idle as you don’t have any cool air blowing through it to dissipate the heat. It may calm down a little when the fan kicks in and the air blows through the radiator.
Otherwise get a stick and some marshmallows. 😊
@@Robbiemoto 😂😂
I think you should have bought it with the termi pipes that come with an ECU flash. It probably fixes all the Euro 5 corking up.
@@Gregwold I’d like to ride one and see the difference side by side… but it’s £2K and it’s ridiculous loud
yeah have you watched lamb chop’s review of it with termi? He posted a review last week as Ducati Bournemouth have a demo bike with termi
ruclips.net/video/3Ah4EBgb5dQ/видео.htmlsi=CSN5M_OMoFf3toPc
@@Gregwold yeah saw that and left a comment - offered LCR a chance to do my 698 vs his 690.. none of this dealer take it easy nonsense
Ahh cool yes I’ve got a 24 plate 690 enduro R I use 99.9% on road. Standard except Wings muffler which by fitting removes the cat as it’s built into the standard muffler. I’ve ridden a demo 698 from blade Abingdon and felt it lacked that powerband punch my 690 kicks you with under hard acceleration although it might well be quicker on paper than a 690 but to me it didn’t feel it in the seat.
So I’m really interested in like for like drag runs between a 690 and 698 and I saw your comparison with your mate but it wasn’t very conclusive as you got different results doing the same plus I expect you two guys weighed different weights? So atm nobody has done a proper race between the two similar bikes with equal weight riders and same state of tune? So our bikes are similar tune in that both have after market slip ons but standard airbox and standard ECU map.
@ there are a lot of variables to consider to make it fair.. price being one too
i see you have like this.. aoocci? or what was it nav stuff with the cameras? Does it actually work well? is it the 9 or die 6? :D was about to get one myself but needed some info if it actually is any good :D
@@subztatic I got the 9 and it’s great, really works - I done a full video on it with a discount code: ruclips.net/video/Naoz7lwLOH8/видео.html
@@hypermotardking oh nice ill check it out then. What mounting did you pick? since im not sure how i should mount it. I dont wanna mount it just on the left side cause i feel like it might bounce alot? but if you could let me know what arm you got for it that be sweet.
@ I just mounted mine dead centre and used the equipment in the box
@@hypermotardking cool thanks :D ill buy the 9 then and use your code if that works in austria xD
Great post, love this bike!
I'm assuming that this model (like most) has a conventional thermostat. These, since Euro 4, have been opening at higher temperatures (usually >5deg C.) to prevent engine knock due to the lean mixture.
Maybe finding (and that's the hard bit) a stat that opens sooner, combined with ECU remap (hate piggy-back stuff with modern bikes) is the path to the best power output AND longevity from stock motors.
ps Had a 4XV '99 R1 from new. Dynojet carb kit/Micron. Ran perfect and temp was always 74deg C. when riding. My 1199 Pani, 1200DVT Multi, RS1200LC, all run around 80+deg C. (and skyrocket quickly when stationary, AND they're all re-mapped!)
pps Does anyone know of a respected company that makes thermostats that open around 5-10deg C. sooner?
ppps I'm assuming race bikes still remove thermostats?
@@wetleyrocks3092 Yeah I remember remap tools like woolich can bring the opening thermostat temps lower - a full flash for this new bike is taking longer than normal
my husq 701 had it too . i took the bike to a dyno guy and he wrote a map for it , imo the only way to go to get max out of performnance and let it run much richer then this euro 5 nonesense will
Yeah agree.. looks like we in for a long wait before this mono can be flashed
so, is there a solution for it? i am living in a very warm climate, it is always glowing, the only solution is do not stop, to let the air cool it down.
@@mohamedaljazairi3892 you have to be going full throttle to use the “open loop” then you won’t get this..
When idling/riding slowly in traffic it will happen to a degree and using that fuel dongle and blocking the secondary air system will reduce the temps..
Mine glows red after about five minutes at idle
@@potter7788 Yeah same.. I guess trick is try not to idle and get moving - fast 😂
Its not the only bike that does that. Its and too lean and letting it idle too long standing still. Ecu remap is the best way to fix it.
@@theone5902 yeah.. looks like those ecu unlocking companies are taking their time 😭😭
plus, it is a single cylinder engine
@hypermotardking The Duc race mapping for the Termi's would fix it probably.
@ need to ask someone who has it
You got to get rid of the catalytic converter that's the only way and then remap it. I bought a 91 KX250 back in the late nineties this bike had been sitting for some time but the guy told me it ran great. And it did after I cleared the mouse out of the silencer,😅 I was kicking that bike for hours trying to get it to start. Fat Mouse had thoroughly packed that silencer and part of the pipe.
@@DIYmotorcycle flippin eck.. 😭😭
If you can lift the front wheel you may get slightly more airflow 😂
@@nickbaker77 My achillies heel.. nothing wants to come UP 😂😂
It’s still not as hot as you though 😘
@@ChasingTenths 😂😂