Fusion 360 CAM 3D Surfacing Tips! FF135
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- How to Use Fusion 360 CAM to 3D Machine an angled surface AND get great finishes! Great surface finishes are a result of different variables, so even when toolpaths look good in Fusion, the part may STILL not turn out the way you want. Let's discuss how to improve surface finish by maintaining consistent tool deflection, tooling types/sizes, how to avoid/combat scalloping, and how to use a PATCH to prevent pesky linking moves from taking place on the part!
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Links for this video
What IS Smoothing | NYCCNC: bit.ly/2JlKom1
Lakeshore Cardbide Tool: bit.ly/2LZPczb
Fusion 360 Patch Tutorials | NYCCNC: bit.ly/2H55uVc
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Reach us / CNC Info:
Speeds & Feeds: provencut.com
Download Fusion 360: www.dpbolvw.ne...
Online Fusion 360 Training: bit.ly/LearnFus...
Hands-On CNC Classes: www.nyccnc.com...
SMW Products: saundersmachin...
CNC Resources: www.nyccnc.com 5 Reasons to Use a Fixture Plate on Your CNC Machine: bit.ly/3sNA4uH
Great tips - thanks heaps for putting out your videos and specifically your CAM tips on Fridays - there are not to be missed. Cheers
Thanks John for a fusion Friday
Couple things. Would it be easier on the tool to rotate the part 90° and use the outside of the cutting surfaces instead of the inner surfaces on the cutter?
Also, do you take suggestions for future FF videos? I would love to see one for doing inside and outside filets and optimizing toolpaths and such.
John,
I recently purchased a 20mm edge finder. I just turned it down on my lathe to 3/4" diaper and it warms fine with the TTS holder. You could most likely do the same with the Chinese cutter without losing concentricity.
John you can hold a 20mm shank tool in a TTS ER32 holder.
Is it me or did you start putting daily vids out a day early? Not complain. Just had me confused lol I’m like wait it’s Friday I missed my appointment. Awesome tutorial BTW. Will contact you in the future months
Cool, that was my part!!
John, this is great hands on information to share !! Just slow down just half a click cause its kinda hard to follow your speed and agility. I know you are a master CNC machinist but us newbies need some time to absorb, follow your key and clicks...on the menus. Thank you again !!!
For this part, would rotating the part so that this face is horizontal make the cut easier?
Ahh I wish my projects were as easy as that one!
Thanks for the tips!
I hope you guys still read comments, I would love to see the part at the end for proof of concept.
Is there a reason not to just reposition the part and use a shell mill or fly cutter to do it? Honest question, considering surface finish is important
Great work as always thank you
From a machining rookie - what would be the issue with putting the 20mm tool in the lathe and turning it down to fit in the tool holder of your choice?
The primary issue is ensuring concentricity of the OD of the tool. Plus, you will never get the surface finish. One might be able to send it to a shop for grinding though. But the tolerances needed are what gets expensive.
For example, for Sherline to increase accuracy of the machine by 10% would double the price of their machines.
It would work just fine as long as you indicate it concentric to the existing surface (and leave a piece of the original surface untouched is a good idea) and you can machine it without introducing a taper, be sure to check your work and adjust if necessary. If you want a better surface finish or a more accurate diameter you could try lapping it with an aluminum or copper shop-made OD lap and some lapping compound, or set up a toolpost grinder and grind it (or take it to a surface grinder and use an accurate spin fixture to grind it). Simply put, you can definitely reduce the OD accurately with reasonable shop tools.
But if it is case hardened then the surface you reveal might be soft, and that could introduce a problem with wear. It also won't be as rigid as it was with the larger diameter.
Chances are the whole thing is completely soft and crooked as well, because it's absurdly cheap and from China. So it might be best to turn it down and not worry about it too much, or buy a better one.
turn the toolpath by 90 degrees you can do it all in one go
I though that you need to have a substantial amount of material (at least 1mm) for the ball nose bit to work well and not to dull it out... At least in wood!
excellent, thanks
I rough with the bull nose then a 90 deg finnish with the same tool. Larger ball is always better but no tool changer in the 770. dammit. Great vid bid John
When doing the 3d contour with the patch method, what is wrong with just changing the Geometry/Tool Containment to Tool outside boundary?
Your tool will drop down the side of your model.
It does, but it didn't seem to round the edge off. It was a small move down, but it didn't seem like as much of a wasted move as the additional distance in the patch. Also, What is that setting for if not this?
i do not see patch, is this an extension?
Does anyone know some good feeds and speeds to start with on the 20mm cutter? Picked one up but have not tried yet. Thank you for your time.
It appears postage has gone up to $43 for the Chinese cutter since your video John. I think someone is keeping a close eye on your channel.
I just need to get a decent Cnc machine here in Canada
Still baffles me that Fusion doesn’t have tangential extension for surfacing paths.
Occams Sawzall Flow technically has it. I've used it with decent success.
I don't know why it doesn't have it either. Seems like it should be simple to do. I just view patchwork as a workaround. You haven't told the software what you actually wanted to do, so you have to lie to it, so it responds to the toolpath you actually wanted in the first place.
gredangeo
I don’t like having to alter the model once in CAM. That’s just asking for problems. Having to extend surfaces just so a tool path won’t immediately engage is a dirty bandaid of a solution.
I agree with on you on that. Simple path extensions is just a part of machining. You shouldn't have to start on the part, there's gouge risks there.
Weird things is that it is in HSMWorks, so the logic is in the toolpaths. I believe in Fusion if you go into the compare and edit you can see the fragment extension distance. This actually would extend the passes when possible.
John, you shouldnt use a ballnose for shallow surfaces because you will be cutting very close to the centre of the tool which means you will have very low surface speed, i.e. you will get an awful surface finish. You should be using a bullnose for this part
Kristian Thompson Silva
Ballnose is fine since he’s working from the lowest point to the highest point, which will engage the flank of the ball for the bulk of the material before the tip engages.
With a bull nose you would have to drastically reduce the step over as even a .06 rad would leave a nasty scallop and a .025 step over.
At what point did I say to use a bullnose with a 0.06 rad dickhead?
Kristian Thompson Silva
Point remains. A bull nose will always require a smaller step over than a ballnose of equal diameter.
I don’t care if it’s a 2” cutter with a .800 rad. A 2” ball would still be able to take a larger step over with a smaller scallop height.
That is an undeniable fact
CAN YOU FINISH THAT SURFACE WITH THE BULL NOSE?