So here's a funny story I'm a portrait photographer and I have never shot big products such as furniture. (I've done small gigs of photographing jewellery and shoes, but never large products) I met this furniture designer at a party and I accepted to shoot his furniture for him (I was drunk, I didn't realize what I was getting myself into) so the next day when the furniture designer called me to follow up on my offer, I internally had a mini panic attack because I had no idea how to shoot large products. Of course, I made it seem like I totally knew what I was talking about and set up a shooting date. Fortunately, your videos came up while I was researching how to shoot big products and I cannot tell you enough how much it helped! The photos turned out great and my client totally loved the finished photographs! You seriously saved me! Little tip to everyone else, don't accept photo shoots while you're intoxicated. Its unprofessional when you promise one thing and cant deliver it. LUCKILY I was able to pull through but its not something I would do again. -_-"
+Namana You're very welcome. I have a friend who says that you should agree to every job you're offered, and then just make bloody sure you teach yourself the necessary skills before the day:) Not sure I totally agree with that but happy that it worked out for you in this case. Other people's generosity with tutorials like these are certainly how I taught myself. Pay it forward and teach someone else something:) All the best.
Sean, love your thought process here... Taking and giving back is a great philosophy and an awesome way to get trough life. Keep up your great work! I'm watching my way through your videos, love your channel.
I am a design student at very useless uni and I need to know photoshop for lots of things in my projects. noone thaught me things that I have learnt from this video in my entire study life. thank you thank you thank you so much. this has been very helpful and brighten the basics very clearly that I didn't understand about photoshop.
Hi Sean! Great video and thanks for sharing. Approximately 17.55 in the video you are working with the healing brush, and it has the crosshairs instead of the typical circular shape of the brush. This the result of having caps lock turned on, or under the preferences under the "Cursor" tab, it may be set to precise. Hope this helps and thanks again!
Huge help Mr. Tucker; thank you. For GIMP users: PS "scissor tool" is the same as the "paths" tool (hotkey = B). Paths are saved to a separate tab in the same dock as your "layers", given that you're using default windowing layout (GIMP 2.10.X)
I've never done a product shoot in a professional setting and this video literally got me through shooting a bed for my dad's startup. I cannot thank you enough for sharing your skill!
Hi Sean, thanks again for these videos. One quick tip for ensuring pure white at the edges is to temporarily add a threshold adjustment layer at the top, and setting it to 255. Anything that is other than 255 will show up as 0 black. Quick and easy way to see all around you image in one glance if you need to add 255 white anywhere needed. Thanks again for making these videos.
I've been doing this ~ full-time for over 16 years. 30+ items shot per day (some larger some smaller), that are used, and have condition issues that need to be shot. Several views and detail shots. With help prepping and moving items, we can get about 50 items in a day shot. Then I edit the photos (they want pure white background) and it's 5-20 photos for each item. 😅😅 It's nice to see some support as there was little for my niche at that time.
Hey Sean, Great video! I am looking forward to your part three of the video series. To answer your question at @17:55. Usually you will not see that visible brush size, because the caps lock key is active. It happens to me occasionally as well. It is just too close to the shift key that we use oh too often.
Hey Sean, very comprehensive and well explained tutorial. It's clear, no bullshit and real tricks that I use myself every day. Keep doing more of this, you're a great teacher! Greetings from Switzerland!
Hands down the BEST selection and masking video I’ve seen using a pure white background. I can’t wait to finish my light box and start listing my eBay items! Thank you for this. :)
thank you so much for this series... i'm working with a professional product photog. now to shoot our textile line, and this is helping me speak his language. :)
Thanks for the video series. Needed to shoot some antique furniture and while I had the basics of lighting down, your videos gave me some good tips and techniques.
I've watched both of the tutorials on this subject. Very educational and informative. I wonder how you would handle a piece of equipment that is mostly black but has elements that are chrome and highly reflective?
Thanks heaps for the videos, I will certainly be going back and watching several times. I don't suppose you would have a video on how to photography cabinets with glass doors.
This is an awesome tutorial. The layers and the tools combinations will be very useful for a lot of editing projects. Thank you for the format you provided. It was easy to follow.
Hi Sean. Great video. Can you talk to how you deal with the business side of your business? How to price and how you find your clients? I'm on the edge of jumping into photography as a career and would appreciate your input. Thank you for your inspiring videos.
Such a great tutorial! I think you couldn't see the circle with the "Healing Brush" because your "Caps lock" key was on (needs to be off/not green). Hope it helps!
Hi Sean, really enjoying your videos. Can I ask why you edit jpegs in PS? As your going to be changing the colour of the chair, why don't you just select the images you want in LR and just select to Edit in Photoshop. You'd be able to edit the images in RAW, have more control of your colours and shadows, and the file wouldn't lose any information.
Great video.... thanks. If you would add a high pass filter on your sound, you will get rit of the low frequency sounds from cars, table top contact and other low end sounds.
Question: When the shadow from the original image is taken and applied to the final image, what about the imperfections of the original background? When shooting many products over a period of time, the background will show wear and tear. Will this technique only pull the density of the shadow of that image or will not the entire shadow art of the image be revealed requiring additional retouching?
This tutorial is amazing! I’ve been following it in Nov 2020 and I have used the magnetic lasso tool instead of the pen tool. Does anyone know how to edit the selection once you have closed the last point?? Thanks.
Hi! I was wondering if instead you can just shoot to get a properly exposed white background instead of needing to use the pen tool to cut out the furniture?
Great tutorials, very clear and no fluff, thank you. A question I have is why you export to JPG from LR? Why not import the RAW files into PS directly?
Laziness. Just kidding. When posting to web I am only going to be working with a small resolution jpg at the end of the day anyway, so to save file sizes as I move through the process I only edit the high res jpg in Photoshop.
Mr. Tucker, really instructive video. I'd like to ask you for some advises. I'm starting an ecommerce for decorative pillows and I had few problems with the picture quality... So could you help me???
Thank you very much Sean for your detailed tutorial, I have been researching for this kind tutorial but this one nails it, right to the point. I would like to know you have shown light setup for single chairs what about bigger chairs/sofas and furniture how do you this kid of bigger setups, can you chime in on this? Do you have any plans to do that too? Thanks again
Same story JUSTME. I would just supplement the light modifiers with larger ones and use the same proportional distance of light to subject. The only time I would add another light would be if I was shooting a large corner sofa. In that case I would use two over head lights; one overhead each side of the corner sofa to light the backs in the same manner as the single seater. The principle is the same, you will just need more space.
Hi Sean. this tutorial series is really helping me to understand the right workflow. Do you do food photography also? I recently asked by a friend to take food photos, can you make a video advice or a tutorial for that? Thanks :D
Thanks Utomo. Funny enough I did work as a food photographer for a while, so I may do a series at some point. In the meantime check these out: ruclips.net/user/YellowStreetPhotosvideos
Really great tutorial for starters, really nice, entertaining and friendly presentation! I’ve been working with image editing software for nearly 30 years (sic) already. I’m actually beyond watching tutorials, but today I’m a bit sick and don’t know what else to do, and I stumbled upon your tutorial. I think you're doing a really great job, and hope you'll not be offended if I give some opinions. I usually don’t write comments and I most definitely don’t want to tell anyone what to do, but I liked your presentation so much, I’d really like to throw in my 5-cents: - I can not subscribe to some of your brush-choices, especially while cloning (use a bigger brush! you're creating patch-work that's hard to correct (esp. around minute 5)! Basically the same rules apply as when you're talking about the "Liquify-Filter": the less strokes you need the better it will look! I’d also recommend saving your selection as a mask so it’s easier to adjust it later, in case you made a mistake - the cross-hair thing that puzzles you is already solved (watch your Caps Lock!), made me giggle ;) - you should really work with RAWs and save the work-versions (and the paths and masks!) as PSD or PSB (depending on size) or TIFF with layers. I know the tutorial is about images that are intended to be used on the web, but you’re basically cutting out that chair twice (once for cutting it out of the background, once for your gradient map… you’re doubling your workload because you could just have saved the masks and paths and re-use them when colouring your chair. Why cut out twice? Masking is super-boring work. In the third video you’re again using the path-tool, but I’d recommend using frequency-separation to get that chair-cover separated from the rest, you’ll get better results and even save some time. - I try to avoid the use of „levels“. Basically I never touch the „levels“. Sorry but „levels“ is for people who don’t know better, beginners, and lazy graphic-designers who are also known to use the „brightness / contrast“-sliders (ugh). I always work with „curves“. It might not be too obvious in your final result, as your work is intended to be shown on the web, but you’re cutting away tonality, instead of just adjusting the brightness of the pixels in a non-destructive way. In your case it’s only about the shadows, so it does not matter too much anyway, but instead of teaching the ‚destructive‘ method of levels I’d highly recommend using (and teaching) only curves! If you really want (or need) to cut off blacks or whites you can do that with curves, too. Thanks for part 3 (Gradient Maps). I very seldom use them as I’m working in a slightly different area of photography (portrait and architecture), so I actually could learn a bit by watching your technique. Will be helpful for me next time I’ll have to use it. All in all: really great work! Hope you’ll be putting more tutorials online, I’ll recommend them wherever I can :)
Why is the choice of JEPG used vs Tiff? What is the choice of color space for your working space? I expect it would be something appropriate for the Web.
Hi Sean, I have a question. I work as a graphic designer for a furniture company and as part of my work role I shoot product images. How would you go about editing 150+ images and doing the cutout? I think the pentool would take a lot of time? Thank you.
Thank you first of all. I just have one question. When you were doing cloning and healing brush, you made separate layers (14:44), but when I try to make changes on the new layer, I don't see any changes. I had to edit directly on the "Background copy" layer. Any tips?
he created a new layer FROM the selection he had made. So make your selectrion box, right click it, select new layer from copy. This will give you the new layer to work on.
Depends on what you're selecting. Sometimes there will be little colour or tonal difference between the items you want to select in which case channels will be useless and you'll need the pen tool. Channels are limited, but the pen tool will always work.
Great tutorial, thanks! But aren't some of the editing you are doing in fact misrepresenting the product? If I were to buy that exact chair from you I would expect the blemishes to show on the picture, not to be Photoshoped away. Or am I too naive now?
+UtubeEric12345 maybe a little:) companies expect you to touch up images to create the best version of the product possible. You won't get hired of you don't. You can't add features or misrepresent, but you should always take out defects and distractions. If your item arrived damaged you would send it back anyway, no matter what the picture looked like. It's a separate issue.
Hi Sean, I really enjoy your videos. You are a likeable person and definitely are an excellent photographer who has a good eye for details and works professionally and quickly. But there is one thing I have to criticize: You improve the product. All the little flaws that come with it are just photoshopped away. The scratches? Maybe you did them, but wasn't the chair delivered to you this way? "The messy stuff in front of the wood"? Do you think that's a problem of the photographer rather than of the production quality or the QM? By your pictures you tell the buyers they are getting a better product than they are actually getting. I think that's wrong Making good furniture is not easy and perfectioning the quality is difficult and sometimes costly. Why do it if the photographer can do it? Let's invest less in the quality and more in a photographer who can photoshop it all away? I could go further and say this is a trust issue in online buying. Or just a rip-off. IMO you are not supposed to build a dream castle but document the actual product. You have enough means and skills to do it, but I think sometimes you are going too far. You are not only representing the selling company but also have a responsibility towards the buyer. This may sound harsh but I have no better words to say (maybe since I'm not a native speaker) Still great videos and top skills! Thank you
+Antik-Garten Antik-Garten couldn't agree with you more mate. This is an argument I have given to my clients on many occasions, but I am often given excuses about poor available samples or the need for uniformity, which is why these skills are necessary. What the client wants, they get, or they will find someone else to do the work. Most aren't in the mood to be called dishonest because of their requirements, even though that's what many of them are. Thanks for a thoughtful comment.
I've always had this question burning inside me about the ethics in product photography. I'm referring to the removal of lumps and hiding bad stitches. Isn't product photography about the exact reference of the things you want to purchase. For example, by hiding some ugly stitching jobs u are miscommunicating to a potential customer about the product. I think, in food photography it's fine since it's handmade and all the seasoning and retouches add to the temptation to order the same dish.
I agree with you. In my experience though you are often photographing returns or items with a fault because the client doesn't want to unpack a new item, in which case you are removing the errors to represent what a brand product looks like.
Watching this 8 years later and realizing that we don’t need pen tool stress like before is soothing. Thank u for this video
So here's a funny story
I'm a portrait photographer and I have never shot big products such as furniture. (I've done small gigs of photographing jewellery and shoes, but never large products) I met this furniture designer at a party and I accepted to shoot his furniture for him (I was drunk, I didn't realize what I was getting myself into) so the next day when the furniture designer called me to follow up on my offer, I internally had a mini panic attack because I had no idea how to shoot large products. Of course, I made it seem like I totally knew what I was talking about and set up a shooting date. Fortunately, your videos came up while I was researching how to shoot big products and I cannot tell you enough how much it helped! The photos turned out great and my client totally loved the finished photographs! You seriously saved me!
Little tip to everyone else, don't accept photo shoots while you're intoxicated. Its unprofessional when you promise one thing and cant deliver it. LUCKILY I was able to pull through but its not something I would do again. -_-"
+Namana You're very welcome. I have a friend who says that you should agree to every job you're offered, and then just make bloody sure you teach yourself the necessary skills before the day:) Not sure I totally agree with that but happy that it worked out for you in this case. Other people's generosity with tutorials like these are certainly how I taught myself. Pay it forward and teach someone else something:) All the best.
get drunk, make money.. that right there is living the life! clearly, if you BS your way into a shoot.. you can youtube it. :P glad it worked out!
Sean, love your thought process here... Taking and giving back is a great philosophy and an awesome way to get trough life. Keep up your great work! I'm watching my way through your videos, love your channel.
Love this
fake it till you make it ;)
I am a design student at very useless uni and I need to know photoshop for lots of things in my projects. noone thaught me things that I have learnt from this video in my entire study life. thank you thank you thank you so much. this has been very helpful and brighten the basics very clearly that I didn't understand about photoshop.
I will watch this over and over and over until I memorized it. So helpful!!
Hi Sean! Great video and thanks for sharing. Approximately 17.55 in the video you are working with the healing brush, and it has the crosshairs instead of the typical circular shape of the brush. This the result of having caps lock turned on, or under the preferences under the "Cursor" tab, it may be set to precise. Hope this helps and thanks again!
Huge help Mr. Tucker; thank you.
For GIMP users: PS "scissor tool" is the same as the "paths" tool (hotkey = B). Paths are saved to a separate tab in the same dock as your "layers", given that you're using default windowing layout (GIMP 2.10.X)
This is easily my favorite tutorial on the internet.
Great content - thanks very much.
+Derrick Eicholtz you're very welcome:)
I've never done a product shoot in a professional setting and this video literally got me through shooting a bed for my dad's startup. I cannot thank you enough for sharing your skill!
Hi Sean, thanks again for these videos. One quick tip for ensuring pure white at the edges is to temporarily add a threshold adjustment layer at the top, and setting it to 255. Anything that is other than 255 will show up as 0 black. Quick and easy way to see all around you image in one glance if you need to add 255 white anywhere needed. Thanks again for making these videos.
I've been doing this ~ full-time for over 16 years. 30+ items shot per day (some larger some smaller), that are used, and have condition issues that need to be shot. Several views and detail shots.
With help prepping and moving items, we can get about 50 items in a day shot. Then I edit the photos (they want pure white background) and it's 5-20 photos for each item. 😅😅
It's nice to see some support as there was little for my niche at that time.
Wow Sean thanks! they way your explain everything so well , kindly and precisely! Thank
you!
Hey Sean, Great video! I am looking forward to your part three of the video series.
To answer your question at @17:55. Usually you will not see that visible brush size, because the caps lock key is active. It happens to me occasionally as well. It is just too close to the shift key that we use oh too often.
You are a very good teacher. Thank you!
Hey Sean, very comprehensive and well explained tutorial. It's clear, no bullshit and real tricks that I use myself every day. Keep doing more of this, you're a great teacher! Greetings from Switzerland!
Hands down the BEST selection and masking video I’ve seen using a pure white background. I can’t wait to finish my light box and start listing my eBay items! Thank you for this. :)
The best tutorial set I have seen here on youtube!
Thank you for this! I can already tell, 30 seconds in your my man to teach me how to do this properly.
thank you so much for this series... i'm working with a professional product photog. now to shoot our textile line, and this is helping me speak his language. :)
Thanks for the video series. Needed to shoot some antique furniture and while I had the basics of lighting down, your videos gave me some good tips and techniques.
I've watched both of the tutorials on this subject. Very educational and informative. I wonder how you would handle a piece of equipment that is mostly black but has elements that are chrome and highly reflective?
you can not believe how much did you helped me with your content. TNX Sean
Brillian advice, Brilliant Guy! Thanks! Love your channel.
Thanks heaps for the videos, I will certainly be going back and watching several times. I don't suppose you would have a video on how to photography cabinets with glass doors.
This is an awesome tutorial. The layers and the tools combinations will be very useful for a lot of editing projects. Thank you for the format you provided. It was easy to follow.
turn caps lock off and u can see the edge of the brush
Very Detailed...Extremely helpful...All three parts
Great series Sean. Looking forward to part 3!
Hi Sean. Great video. Can you talk to how you deal with the business side of your business? How to price and how you find your clients? I'm on the edge of jumping into photography as a career and would appreciate your input. Thank you for your inspiring videos.
Such a great tutorial! I think you couldn't see the circle with the "Healing Brush" because your "Caps lock" key was on (needs to be off/not green). Hope it helps!
Awesome tutorial Sean, i love the drop shadow part, it help me a lot with my current work, thank you Sean!
Thank you for all the help! Amazing tutorials!
Hi Sean, thanks for sharing all you know, I like your portraits!
Just come across your videos Sean and I wish i had seen them earlier, it would have saved me a lot of angst! Many thanks.
Hi Sean, really enjoying your videos. Can I ask why you edit jpegs in PS?
As your going to be changing the colour of the chair, why don't you just select the images you want in LR and just select to Edit in Photoshop.
You'd be able to edit the images in RAW, have more control of your colours and shadows, and the file wouldn't lose any information.
Wondering the exact same thing especially when he spoke of retaining as much info as possible in LR
Great video.... thanks. If you would add a high pass filter on your sound, you will get rit of the low frequency sounds from cars, table top contact and other low end sounds.
Thank you, Sean.
Thank you so much Sean, Wow Finally I found the best product photography tutorial on Internet. Thanks a lot.........................................
Thanks Voilet. Glad it helped:)
Question: When the shadow from the original image is taken and applied to the final image, what about the imperfections of the original background? When shooting many products over a period of time, the background will show wear and tear. Will this technique only pull the density of the shadow of that image or will not the entire shadow art of the image be revealed requiring additional retouching?
This tutorial is amazing! I’ve been following it in Nov 2020 and I have used the magnetic lasso tool instead of the pen tool. Does anyone know how to edit the selection once you have closed the last point?? Thanks.
BEST VIDEO OUT THERE!
So much great information into your processes!
Very helpful and well presented, gold to a studio lighting newbie like myself. Thank you!
Hi! I was wondering if instead you can just shoot to get a properly exposed white background instead of needing to use the pen tool to cut out the furniture?
love it so informative. I can't wait for part three!!!
Great tutorials, very clear and no fluff, thank you. A question I have is why you export to JPG from LR? Why not import the RAW files into PS directly?
Laziness. Just kidding. When posting to web I am only going to be working with a small resolution jpg at the end of the day anyway, so to save file sizes as I move through the process I only edit the high res jpg in Photoshop.
The best tutorial I have seen on the web. Thanks for sharing Sean! :)
No worries. Glad I could help:)
31 minute video and i enjoyed every single moment of it
Mr. Tucker, really instructive video. I'd like to ask you for some advises. I'm starting an ecommerce for decorative pillows and I had few problems with the picture quality...
So could you help me???
I have to shoot maybe 40 hand bags..but its really only 10 different types and different colors of the same style.. totally going to try this.
+sickhcivc good luck:)
Thank you very much Sean for your detailed tutorial, I have been researching for this kind tutorial but this one nails it, right to the point.
I would like to know you have shown light setup for single chairs what about bigger chairs/sofas and furniture how do you this kid of bigger setups, can you chime in on this?
Do you have any plans to do that too?
Thanks again
Same story JUSTME. I would just supplement the light modifiers with larger ones and use the same proportional distance of light to subject. The only time I would add another light would be if I was shooting a large corner sofa. In that case I would use two over head lights; one overhead each side of the corner sofa to light the backs in the same manner as the single seater. The principle is the same, you will just need more space.
You're great Sean! makes things so easy!
Great series, very helpful and perfectly explained!
Hi Sean. this tutorial series is really helping me to understand the right workflow. Do you do food photography also? I recently asked by a friend to take food photos, can you make a video advice or a tutorial for that? Thanks :D
Thanks Utomo. Funny enough I did work as a food photographer for a while, so I may do a series at some point. In the meantime check these out: ruclips.net/user/YellowStreetPhotosvideos
Sean Tucker Great. Thank you very much :)
great videos.....thaaaaaank yoooouuu for your knowledge that you share
Really great tutorial for starters, really nice, entertaining and friendly presentation! I’ve been working with image editing software for nearly 30 years (sic) already. I’m actually beyond watching tutorials, but today I’m a bit sick and don’t know what else to do, and I stumbled upon your tutorial. I think you're doing a really great job, and hope you'll not be offended if I give some opinions. I usually don’t write comments and I most definitely don’t want to tell anyone what to do, but I liked your presentation so much, I’d really like to throw in my 5-cents:
- I can not subscribe to some of your brush-choices, especially while cloning (use a bigger brush! you're creating patch-work that's hard to correct (esp. around minute 5)! Basically the same rules apply as when you're talking about the "Liquify-Filter": the less strokes you need the better it will look! I’d also recommend saving your selection as a mask so it’s easier to adjust it later, in case you made a mistake
- the cross-hair thing that puzzles you is already solved (watch your Caps Lock!), made me giggle ;)
- you should really work with RAWs and save the work-versions (and the paths and masks!) as PSD or PSB (depending on size) or TIFF with layers. I know the tutorial is about images that are intended to be used on the web, but you’re basically cutting out that chair twice (once for cutting it out of the background, once for your gradient map… you’re doubling your workload because you could just have saved the masks and paths and re-use them when colouring your chair. Why cut out twice? Masking is super-boring work. In the third video you’re again using the path-tool, but I’d recommend using frequency-separation to get that chair-cover separated from the rest, you’ll get better results and even save some time.
- I try to avoid the use of „levels“. Basically I never touch the „levels“. Sorry but „levels“ is for people who don’t know better, beginners, and lazy graphic-designers who are also known to use the „brightness / contrast“-sliders (ugh). I always work with „curves“. It might not be too obvious in your final result, as your work is intended to be shown on the web, but you’re cutting away tonality, instead of just adjusting the brightness of the pixels in a non-destructive way. In your case it’s only about the shadows, so it does not matter too much anyway, but instead of teaching the ‚destructive‘ method of levels I’d highly recommend using (and teaching) only curves! If you really want (or need) to cut off blacks or whites you can do that with curves, too.
Thanks for part 3 (Gradient Maps). I very seldom use them as I’m working in a slightly different area of photography (portrait and architecture), so I actually could learn a bit by watching your technique. Will be helpful for me next time I’ll have to use it.
All in all: really great work! Hope you’ll be putting more tutorials online, I’ll recommend them wherever I can :)
Thanks for you considered response Sebastian. Some good points.
Why is the choice of JEPG used vs Tiff? What is the choice of color space for your working space? I expect it would be something appropriate for the Web.
Thank you. You are a life lifesaver
Great tutorial, Thanks!
why don't you click on whitre while using the eye dropper? Does grey gives better color? Also when to use the white and black?
This was brilliant. I'm subscribing.
You're amazing, thank you so much.
Amazing tutorial. once again, many thanks....!
What tutorial would be recommended for explanation of the masking technique utilized here?
Masterclass!
Awesome! Great video...I shall be trying some of those tips (well all of those tips) good work :)
Thank you ! great job
Super tutorial!
Hi Sean,
I have a question. I work as a graphic designer for a furniture company and as part of my work role I shoot product images. How would you go about editing 150+ images and doing the cutout? I think the pentool would take a lot of time? Thank you.
great video very informative thanks
Very well explained
Thank you first of all. I just have one question. When you were doing cloning and healing brush, you made separate layers (14:44), but when I try to make changes on the new layer, I don't see any changes. I had to edit directly on the "Background copy" layer. Any tips?
he created a new layer FROM the selection he had made. So make your selectrion box, right click it, select new layer from copy. This will give you the new layer to work on.
Very informative! thank you!
great tutorial thank you
best tutorial ever!
Great job
This is awesome!
can you provide a link to where you bought the grey card?
do you calibrate your monitor most of the time? or depending on the critical of the projects?
I calibrate every few months regardless of things going on.
@@seantuck niceeee. love your tuts
not sure if someone commented on this - if you have no circle around your brush curser, it typically means that your cap lock is on - best,
Hey Buddy, thanks for your video. At 18 minutes you had your cap lock on. thats why you couldnt get your circle around your tool.
I'm curious as to why you saved to jpeg first as well?
Do you feel that the Pen tool is as accurate as making a selection through the channels?
Depends on what you're selecting. Sometimes there will be little colour or tonal difference between the items you want to select in which case channels will be useless and you'll need the pen tool. Channels are limited, but the pen tool will always work.
Use threshold to check if it's pure white all along the edge, it's much faster and more accurate ;)
This video made me $2,000. Thank you
amazing video
Great tutorial, thanks! But aren't some of the editing you are doing in fact misrepresenting the product? If I were to buy that exact chair from you I would expect the blemishes to show on the picture, not to be Photoshoped away. Or am I too naive now?
+UtubeEric12345 maybe a little:) companies expect you to touch up images to create the best version of the product possible. You won't get hired of you don't. You can't add features or misrepresent, but you should always take out defects and distractions. If your item arrived damaged you would send it back anyway, no matter what the picture looked like. It's a separate issue.
Have you found a faster way yet to do the cut-out? I hope you can share :)
what WB mode did you shoot in camera?
good good tutorial
thank you
Hi Sean, I really enjoy your videos. You are a likeable person and definitely are an excellent photographer who has a good eye for details and works professionally and quickly.
But there is one thing I have to criticize:
You improve the product.
All the little flaws that come with it are just photoshopped away.
The scratches? Maybe you did them, but wasn't the chair delivered to you this way?
"The messy stuff in front of the wood"? Do you think that's a problem of the photographer rather than of the production quality or the QM?
By your pictures you tell the buyers they are getting a better product than they are actually getting.
I think that's wrong
Making good furniture is not easy and perfectioning the quality is difficult and sometimes costly. Why do it if the photographer can do it? Let's invest less in the quality and more in a photographer who can photoshop it all away?
I could go further and say this is a trust issue in online buying. Or just a rip-off.
IMO you are not supposed to build a dream castle but document the actual product. You have enough means and skills to do it, but I think sometimes you are going too far. You are not only representing the selling company but also have a responsibility towards the buyer.
This may sound harsh but I have no better words to say (maybe since I'm not a native speaker)
Still great videos and top skills! Thank you
+Antik-Garten Antik-Garten couldn't agree with you more mate. This is an argument I have given to my clients on many occasions, but I am often given excuses about poor available samples or the need for uniformity, which is why these skills are necessary. What the client wants, they get, or they will find someone else to do the work. Most aren't in the mood to be called dishonest because of their requirements, even though that's what many of them are. Thanks for a thoughtful comment.
Thank you!
thx a lot for that video
The circle around your brush wont show up if you have caps lock on.
what if we didnt shoot our product with the greycard and i am watching it now to edit
I've always had this question burning inside me about the ethics in product photography. I'm referring to the removal of lumps and hiding bad stitches. Isn't product photography about the exact reference of the things you want to purchase. For example, by hiding some ugly stitching jobs u are miscommunicating to a potential customer about the product.
I think, in food photography it's fine since it's handmade and all the seasoning and retouches add to the temptation to order the same dish.
I agree with you. In my experience though you are often photographing returns or items with a fault because the client doesn't want to unpack a new item, in which case you are removing the errors to represent what a brand product looks like.
That makes sense!
Supper bro thanks
should save as sRGB for the web.
I wouldn't consider a chair a good example to use as a large object. I have been enjoying the series though.
The point is to show you something other than table top photography. I’m going to assume your intelligence can interpolate the rest.
Hiding defects in photoshop, nice going. Unsuspecting buyer will be very happy.