The gas burner valves on my 25 year-old gas cooktop, GE Model - JGP389WEV1WW, seized and also leaked gas. Thanks to your video I rebuilt all of the gas valves following your example and now everything works perfectly. The replacement valves cost anywhere between $150 and $200 a piece. This is the only video on RUclips that describes how to fix this problem. Thank you very much!
Thank you so much for posting this info! I've had one valve stuck on an otherwise perfectly good, but very old, cook-top for a long time. All my past searching for solutions or schematics yielded nothing. Followed your example and had it fixed in no time! Great!!!!
Thank you so much, saves a lot of money and time, it take a lot of time to find the part number and time for the order to come ( if you get the right part)>> this will save time and money and it will be like brand new. Thank you Mike again,
Thank you, really help, I found out there were different type of valves, similar mechanism, mine were made of brass,.....I will go to a special stove store and try to get instead as the spring in some of them were rust out......I learn a lot. Thanks.
Thanks man! I’ll be rebuilding mine tomorrow at work, one question though, is the white plastic part that goes around the shaft with wires attached be spinning freely??
Graphite grease, it's what us service engineers use. If you were to go as far as stripping everything back at least bubble it with leak detection fluid.
Should the graphite grease be used around the 15:45 timestamp in his detailed video? I used silicone spray as he suggested. Operated smoothly at first but my 2 rehabilitated valves have become sticky & hard to move after 20-30 usages. I'm thinking it needs a grease for the long term. I just bought Hyheet Graphite Grease-- seems to be the right type? other recommendations welcome. Thanks.
Hi, thank you for this video. I know it's been over 4 years, but in case you're still listening, how did you clean the corroded parts? Use a product? A solution? Soaking them? Or just spraying? Use a toothbrush or wire brush? Sandpaper? Would really like to know how you got the parts looking like new. Thank you!
redlense4 I believe the igniter lead is also a thermocouples. Once the flame is on, it warms up he thermocouples which sends a signal to the ignition box to stop producing spark. Pretty neat design but not without issues. If the ignition lead gets dirty it will not stop the igniter eventually burning it out.
A thermocouple is a flame supervision devise. The liquid in it expands on contact with heat from the flame. It's connected into the gas tap in this gas. If no flame (heat) is detected it shuts of the gas supply. So if something were to spill boiled milk for instance. If the flame goes out. The gas shuts off.
@@mikes3872 I see. It shuts it off instantly. I'm going to be looking at a customers oven tomorrow. She said one of the knobs is "stuck". I suspect it's going to be a similar problem. Thanks!
Shaft and sleeve made of aluminum: bad idea. The same happens to a seatpost in an aluminum bicycle frame, if you don't put a little anti-seize or similar grease it will weld cold. I once had the same problem on one of the wheels of my car, the rim had literally welded itself to the disc brake facing (in this case the wheel was aluminum and the disc brake steel, but it can happen as you can see). Thanks for the video, I had the same problem on an otherwise almost new cooktop that was stored after being used a while (2 years) by a person very fond of frying his food and generally eating very greasy food.
Anti-seize compound is more resistant to high temps. It's not like the valves will heat up too much (like the burners) but they still absorb heat so that's something to consider.
JediFight, mine was simply dropped in a countertop and held in place by some silicone sealer. Used a putty knife and had it running along the edge all the way around, freeing the cooktop.
Thanks for the video. I learned a lot more than anyone the other videos I'd watched. Saved me time and money, Thanks again great job.
TY so much for this video, we were able to fix the stuck valve in our 20 year old Jenn air. The closeups of cleaning the valve parts were invaluable!
The gas burner valves on my 25 year-old gas cooktop, GE Model - JGP389WEV1WW, seized and also leaked gas. Thanks to your video I rebuilt all of the gas valves following your example and now everything works perfectly. The replacement valves cost anywhere between $150 and $200 a piece. This is the only video on RUclips that describes how to fix this problem. Thank you very much!
Super helpful! THANKS for posting. Since my gas valves are no longer available as replacement parts this saved me from replacing my entire cooktop.
I used your video to help me fix my frozen stuck knob. You saved me time and money. Thanks so much
Thanks , the stove top I have cost over 3k, and I was about to buy a new one, but I was able to fix it because of this video. 😀
Thank you so much for posting this info! I've had one valve stuck on an otherwise perfectly good, but very old, cook-top for a long time. All my past searching for solutions or schematics yielded nothing. Followed your example and had it fixed in no time! Great!!!!
Thank you so much, saves a lot of money and time, it take a lot of time to find the part number and time for the order to come ( if you get the right part)>> this will save time and money and it will be like brand new. Thank you Mike again,
That's exactly what I needed to know!! Thanks a bunch!!!
Great video! You’re going to save me an expensive service call. Thank you!
thanks. Good useful work.
Thank you, really help, I found out there were different type of valves, similar mechanism, mine were made of brass,.....I will go to a special stove store and try to get instead as the spring in some of them were rust out......I learn a lot. Thanks.
You have to use a thin layer of a thick sticky grease on the cone plug rotating surfaces which also acts as a sealing agent against gas leaking out!
Thanks man! I’ll be rebuilding mine tomorrow at work, one question though, is the white plastic part that goes around the shaft with wires attached be spinning freely??
Graphite grease, it's what us service engineers use. If you were to go as far as stripping everything back at least bubble it with leak detection fluid.
Should the graphite grease be used around the 15:45 timestamp in his detailed video? I used silicone spray as he suggested. Operated smoothly at first but my 2 rehabilitated valves have become sticky & hard to move after 20-30 usages. I'm thinking it needs a grease for the long term. I just bought Hyheet Graphite Grease-- seems to be the right type? other recommendations welcome. Thanks.
Hi, thank you for this video. I know it's been over 4 years, but in case you're still listening, how did you clean the corroded parts? Use a product? A solution? Soaking them? Or just spraying? Use a toothbrush or wire brush? Sandpaper? Would really like to know how you got the parts looking like new. Thank you!
Nice! Helped me understand issues that I am seeing with mine.
What turns off the igniter once the burner is lit? Great detailed vid. Thx!
redlense4 I believe the igniter lead is also a thermocouples. Once the flame is on, it warms up he thermocouples which sends a signal to the ignition box to stop producing spark. Pretty neat design but not without issues. If the ignition lead gets dirty it will not stop the igniter eventually burning it out.
A thermocouple is a flame supervision devise. The liquid in it expands on contact with heat from the flame. It's connected into the gas tap in this gas. If no flame (heat) is detected it shuts of the gas supply. So if something were to spill boiled milk for instance. If the flame goes out. The gas shuts off.
@@mikes3872 I see. It shuts it off instantly. I'm going to be looking at a customers oven tomorrow. She said one of the knobs is "stuck". I suspect it's going to be a similar problem. Thanks!
ghostmanromeo uk I probably meant thermoelectric probe as it sends feedback to ignition box using the same wire that’s used for spark.
Thanks you saved me $700.00
Great tutorial thank you.
Shaft and sleeve made of aluminum: bad idea. The same happens to a seatpost in an aluminum bicycle frame, if you don't put a little anti-seize or similar grease it will weld cold. I once had the same problem on one of the wheels of my car, the rim had literally welded itself to the disc brake facing (in this case the wheel was aluminum and the disc brake steel, but it can happen as you can see). Thanks for the video, I had the same problem on an otherwise almost new cooktop that was stored after being used a while (2 years) by a person very fond of frying his food and generally eating very greasy food.
Thank you! got it fixed in short order!
What's difference between "anti-seize" compound and a good grease? - 12:22
Anti-seize compound is more resistant to high temps. It's not like the valves will heat up too much (like the burners) but they still absorb heat so that's something to consider.
@@mikes3872 OK
How do I get to the valve? Is the stove top just setting on my counter? Just lift it up?
JediFight, mine was simply dropped in a countertop and held in place by some silicone sealer. Used a putty knife and had it running along the edge all the way around, freeing the cooktop.
How would you remove a stuck tapered valve?
Try soaking it in solvent
@@scottl5910 Overnight- works!
GNARLY?!?!? Someone from my generation
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