Your video is right on time, bro. I have to do this job on mine. I noticed my camber is shot and I'm hoping it's not the ball joints. I replaced the BJs and unit bearings a few years ago for our Moab trip. Your channel is great. Keep wheeling!
I use the hammer/bolt trick too. But I loosen all three about 1/2” out, then use an old 13mm socket to hammer on. Works well and doesn’t ding-up the bolt heads. The other way is to put the bolts in part-way, wedge something in between the bolt head and axle ‘C’, turn the wheel to apply pressure, and give one good whack to the cast-iron of the knuckle. One good whapp will vibrate the cast iron to break the corrosion bond (also a great tip for ball joints and TREs).
if u dont have extra bolts to hammer out the hub you can place the 12 point side of the combination wrench on the bolts you have and have it protect the bolt while u hammer it.
They're doing well so far, when we got the jeep they were a year old and the previous owner had one blow out right away so we had to replace one. But there about 50k miles on them and they still got some tread but they are starting to crack from age.
Best video I’ve found. Thanks! Couple of questions. Decided to do this work and more on my 2001 4 wheel drive xj as well as replace my u-joint and rotors and pads while there. My 2001 has anti lock brakes. Would any front wheel bearings /hub assembly I would buy for that year have any anti lock brake connection? With ignition in run, jeep in 4 wheel and opposite tire on ground, will this create any issue pulling axle shaft out to replace u-joint and putting back in?
It should be the same process on abs brakes. Same u joints and wheel hub is used. On these older vehicles with abs they use a sensor mounted to the knuckle that reads a gear that's on the axle shaft. You should be alright to pull the axle shaft and hub off while the other wheels are on the ground and in 4x4, but being in 4x4 is not necessary.
@@OutJeeping Thanks for the quick reply. So in your opinion, you think the Timken is better quality than the Moog Axle bearing/hub? Personal preference or is this a general consensus from Jeep owners? Closest I get to off roading with my xj is rough dirt roads to get to trail heads.
@@rogerball2495 In general they are both a great brand to use. As I have heard from many people in the Jeep and Dodge Community, Moog quality has gone done in the last 10 years. I personally recommend Timken if you have the funds. They specialize in bearings and seals and I have heard nothing but great things about them from other people that have used their products.
@@OutJeeping Thanks for the. Info. I’ve photographed in one of their ball bearing facilities. Well run. Didn’t connect the name till you mentioned the bearings and seals part. Only about $5 difference.
I have a question. Just bought a 93' cherokee and sometimes when I go to start it, it will crank and turn over and other times it will just crank and not turn over. Im thinking it may be the Crankshaft position sensor. Do you have any ideas?
@@OutJeeping i was wondering because the people i bought it from jerry rigged a wire so in the event it doesn't start, touching that wire to the positive terminal would start it
@@AnEverydayGamer If they rigged a small wire to the stater, that's probably because they bypassed the safety switches that may have gone bad such as the NSS or Ignition switch.
I have a squealing noise that I thought were my brake pads. Jacked up the Jeep, turned the tire by hand and found the noise is between the U-joint and the front of the transfer case, nothing loose. Transfer case fluid good. Still not sure what the heck it is. Made sure all 37 grease point are lubed, all good.
Your video is right on time, bro. I have to do this job on mine. I noticed my camber is shot and I'm hoping it's not the ball joints. I replaced the BJs and unit bearings a few years ago for our Moab trip. Your channel is great. Keep wheeling!
Your how to vids are always the best. Even if I get pummeled with ford ads lol.
300k! Great achievement 🙏🏻
I use the hammer/bolt trick too. But I loosen all three about 1/2” out, then use an old 13mm socket to hammer on. Works well and doesn’t ding-up the bolt heads. The other way is to put the bolts in part-way, wedge something in between the bolt head and axle ‘C’, turn the wheel to apply pressure, and give one good whack to the cast-iron of the knuckle. One good whapp will vibrate the cast iron to break the corrosion bond (also a great tip for ball joints and TREs).
I also put a little grease on the splines of my axles.
That doesn't look difficult at all if you have the right tools and motivation. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip about putting the Jeep in 4wd to get the 36mm nut off!
Very informative. I hope mine hangs in there long enough to someday need this, but no hurry.
Air hammers are mint for getting those out.
if u dont have extra bolts to hammer out the hub you can place the 12 point side of the combination wrench on the bolts you have and have it protect the bolt while u hammer it.
You can try that, just got to make sure not to mushroom the wrench end.
Note :: before u start the jeep don't forget to depress break pedal for 3 times
Nicely done. VERY helpful!!
Great video Austin
Another great video. Keep them coming pls. 👍
Using anti-seize is a good tip, especially if you live in the rust belt like us.How do you like those General Grabber a/t's?They look nice....
They're doing well so far, when we got the jeep they were a year old and the previous owner had one blow out right away so we had to replace one. But there about 50k miles on them and they still got some tread but they are starting to crack from age.
Best video I’ve found. Thanks! Couple of questions. Decided to do this work and more on my 2001 4 wheel drive xj as well as replace my u-joint and rotors and pads while there.
My 2001 has anti lock brakes. Would any front wheel bearings /hub assembly I would buy for that year have any anti lock brake connection?
With ignition in run, jeep in 4 wheel and opposite tire on ground, will this create any issue pulling axle shaft out to replace u-joint and putting back in?
It should be the same process on abs brakes. Same u joints and wheel hub is used. On these older vehicles with abs they use a sensor mounted to the knuckle that reads a gear that's on the axle shaft. You should be alright to pull the axle shaft and hub off while the other wheels are on the ground and in 4x4, but being in 4x4 is not necessary.
@@OutJeeping Thanks for the quick reply. So in your opinion, you think the Timken is better quality than the Moog Axle bearing/hub? Personal preference or is this a general consensus from Jeep owners? Closest I get to off roading with my xj is rough dirt roads to get to trail heads.
@@rogerball2495 In general they are both a great brand to use. As I have heard from many people in the Jeep and Dodge Community, Moog quality has gone done in the last 10 years. I personally recommend Timken if you have the funds. They specialize in bearings and seals and I have heard nothing but great things about them from other people that have used their products.
@@OutJeeping Thanks for the. Info. I’ve photographed in one of their ball bearing facilities. Well run. Didn’t connect the name till you mentioned the bearings and seals part. Only about $5 difference.
I have a 33" wheels what brand wheel hub is good ?
just ordered a moog wheel hub, wondering how urs has held up over the years. cheers
So far still holding up.
What were some of the driving/handling symptoms you were experiencing prior the repair?
Load bearing noises upon turns at a moderate speed.
missing your videos...........' bring more.
Thanks from Idaho" newsub!
What can happen if the shaft nuts are not tightened to 175 lbs ft?
Too loose or too tight can lead to premature wear in the bearing itself and fail a lot sooner than the required life expectancy of the unit bearing.
Awesome channel thank you
Do new wheel bearing hubs have resistance when rotating or do they spin freely?
They should have a little resistance from the grease inside and the preload on the bearings.
thank you
I have a question. Just bought a 93' cherokee and sometimes when I go to start it, it will crank and turn over and other times it will just crank and not turn over. Im thinking it may be the Crankshaft position sensor. Do you have any ideas?
Sounds like it could be signs of a bad starter solenoid where it engages the starter gear to the flywheel/flexplate.
@@OutJeeping i was wondering because the people i bought it from jerry rigged a wire so in the event it doesn't start, touching that wire to the positive terminal would start it
@@AnEverydayGamer If they rigged a small wire to the stater, that's probably because they bypassed the safety switches that may have gone bad such as the NSS or Ignition switch.
@@OutJeeping possibly. Ill have to investigate whenever it warms up lol. Thanks for your input.
i have a whining sound coming from my front end. it starts up at about 25 mph. any ideas on what it could be?
Check oil in the dif
@@jerrywhalen2100 will do thanks!
Either it could be a wheel bearing or bearings inside the differential. I would definitely start by taking a look at the fluid level in the diff.
I have a squealing noise that I thought were my brake pads. Jacked up the Jeep, turned the tire by hand and found the noise is between the U-joint and the front of the transfer case, nothing loose. Transfer case fluid good. Still not sure what the heck it is. Made sure all 37 grease point are lubed, all good.
Hey were did you find the torque specs from??
These is lots of sources forums from googling it. Otherwise a Hanes manual has it as well.
@@OutJeeping thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Looks same as a front wheel general motors wheel bearing
SMILE