@13:14 I would say that's a sign of the rotor eating a chunk of exhaust port carbon. The rotor drags it along the housing, then crushes it against the rotor faces, leaving the fragments to jam into the seal grooves and cause stuck and cracked seals like you have. Which explains why your rear exhaust port carbon shelf was empty; it must have been filled similar to your front, but got chewed out.
Please go see my other video regarding oil weight and type. The failure in this engine had nothing to do with oil btw. The bearings looked great when torn down.
Rotors can be good spares, or for a n/a carby engine for the future brother! Gouge marks don't look that bad. Flat diamond plate the faces good to go, check apex grooves, if out of spec for 2mm, edm wire cut for 3mm.😊✂️✂️
It’s an S2 so no option for sohn adapter (nothing available for the dual OMP setup yet), but mainly just beating the hell out of it regularly, but of course when there’s already a lot of carbon built up you can only get so much out
So the carbon killed it? Or the Apex or side seal springs didn't hold enough tension ? What was your final decision on what killed it? From my point of view I would think the springs weren't hold seals out properly thus losing compression?
Too much carbon build up on the faces, Beat on the engine a little too hard, carbon broke loose and made contact with the housings (explains the gouge marks on the faces), carbon chunks hit the side seal breaking it and not entirely sure why all 3 corner seals on that side of the rotor snapped too, but I’ll just say too much build up from previous owner babying
Hey brother I didn't get a good look,we're they oem inner water seals ? Just for a second I thought they looked After market,because I was thinking the bearings look in far too good of a condition for that many miles so maybe it's on it's 2 life Check the step wear tolerance with a dial indicator,always get more of a step on the plug side,if you have gone on the intake side safe your money
They’re OEM, just old and worn and came apart easy. The bearings do look to be in extremely good shape, but I believe that has more to do with the consistent service it’s had before I bought it according to car fax and then me getting it and using the correct weight oil (10w40 & 20w50) further reducing wear by 50% compared to a standard Renesis using 5w20. As for step wear I already know it’s less than favorable. It’s not as bad as some I’ve seen, but I probably wouldn’t choose to use these as a first choice
@@NateRist yes that is for sure. Had rotarys since 1994 and never would have put that rubbish spec oil in my engines. The window bearings contributes considerably than single window bearings found in the retard models..
100,000km is about 62,000 miles which is extremely low for a renesis to go at. Here in the US the average is closer to 100,000 miles. I’ve always wondered why motors in other countries tend to go at 60k miles and no one has ever come up with a legitimate explanation. This motor made it to 161,000 miles (not KM) just to clarify and the actual cause of failure was found to be the TREX ignition coil kit as it consists of cheap knock off parts
@@NateRist that makes me wonder actually, how they maintained their engines and what actually went wrong, mostly said they just loss their compression, but none ever get into their engine to check whats the real issue. Mine just clocked at 111k km, im thinking of getting the sohn adapter 🤔 what are your thoughts?
@@JohnLabu21 Personally I don't like the sohn kits. It's gravity fed instead of fed from high oil pressure and there's no way to tell that your OMP and lines are clear, free flowing and 100% functional, so relying on that as your primary source for lubrication isn't the best idea. IMHO the best and most reliable way to ensure you have adequate lubrication is to block the OMP off as well as tapping and plugging the feed port in the front iron and premixing at 1.0 Oz per gallon. This way you never have to question it which is why my SA is setup this way. With the OMP still in the car I'd just leave it alone and premix at 0.5 Oz per gallon
Thanks for doing this teardown. Definitely interesting to see the shape the various parts are in at high miles. Keep these tech clips coming please!
@13:14 I would say that's a sign of the rotor eating a chunk of exhaust port carbon. The rotor drags it along the housing, then crushes it against the rotor faces, leaving the fragments to jam into the seal grooves and cause stuck and cracked seals like you have.
Which explains why your rear exhaust port carbon shelf was empty; it must have been filled similar to your front, but got chewed out.
It was detonation from faulty D585 coils from TREX. Not from carbon
Cool vid, thanks ‼️
My 2020 GT (Series II) has about 98k miles onit, so this content interests me.
did you run the recommended oil for the car or did you switch to synthetic and/or thicker oil?
Please go see my other video regarding oil weight and type. The failure in this engine had nothing to do with oil btw. The bearings looked great when torn down.
Rotors can be good spares, or for a n/a carby engine for the future brother!
Gouge marks don't look that bad. Flat diamond plate the faces good to go, check apex grooves, if out of spec for 2mm, edm wire cut for 3mm.😊✂️✂️
I have a good modified pair of rx8 rotors balanced and ready to go for that
This is a clean ass motor (carbon build up wise) for that many miles. Did you run a sohn adapter or water/meth?
It’s an S2 so no option for sohn adapter (nothing available for the dual OMP setup yet), but mainly just beating the hell out of it regularly, but of course when there’s already a lot of carbon built up you can only get so much out
Lol close forgot them corner seals break hella of easy too.
So the carbon killed it? Or the Apex or side seal springs didn't hold enough tension ? What was your final decision on what killed it? From my point of view I would think the springs weren't hold seals out properly thus losing compression?
Too much carbon build up on the faces, Beat on the engine a little too hard, carbon broke loose and made contact with the housings (explains the gouge marks on the faces), carbon chunks hit the side seal breaking it and not entirely sure why all 3 corner seals on that side of the rotor snapped too, but I’ll just say too much build up from previous owner babying
Hey brother I didn't get a good look,we're they oem inner water seals ? Just for a second I thought they looked After market,because I was thinking the bearings look in far too good of a condition for that many miles so maybe it's on it's 2 life
Check the step wear tolerance with a dial indicator,always get more of a step on the plug side,if you have gone on the intake side safe your money
They’re OEM, just old and worn and came apart easy. The bearings do look to be in extremely good shape, but I believe that has more to do with the consistent service it’s had before I bought it according to car fax and then me getting it and using the correct weight oil (10w40 & 20w50) further reducing wear by 50% compared to a standard Renesis using 5w20. As for step wear I already know it’s less than favorable. It’s not as bad as some I’ve seen, but I probably wouldn’t choose to use these as a first choice
@@NateRist yes that is for sure. Had rotarys since 1994 and never would have put that rubbish spec oil in my engines.
The window bearings contributes considerably than single window bearings found in the retard models..
Did you premix and have a catalytic converter during the 30,000 miles you put on it before it let go?
Premix yes, cat no
@@NateRist Alright I'm just starting to premix now looking to get a midpipe to avoid clogging the cat. Thanks for responding so quick man!
161k Miles? that was really better than most people, mostly only made under 100k Km before they engine swapped
100,000km is about 62,000 miles which is extremely low for a renesis to go at. Here in the US the average is closer to 100,000 miles. I’ve always wondered why motors in other countries tend to go at 60k miles and no one has ever come up with a legitimate explanation. This motor made it to 161,000 miles (not KM) just to clarify and the actual cause of failure was found to be the TREX ignition coil kit as it consists of cheap knock off parts
@@NateRist that makes me wonder actually, how they maintained their engines and what actually went wrong, mostly said they just loss their compression, but none ever get into their engine to check whats the real issue. Mine just clocked at 111k km, im thinking of getting the sohn adapter 🤔 what are your thoughts?
@@JohnLabu21 Personally I don't like the sohn kits. It's gravity fed instead of fed from high oil pressure and there's no way to tell that your OMP and lines are clear, free flowing and 100% functional, so relying on that as your primary source for lubrication isn't the best idea. IMHO the best and most reliable way to ensure you have adequate lubrication is to block the OMP off as well as tapping and plugging the feed port in the front iron and premixing at 1.0 Oz per gallon. This way you never have to question it which is why my SA is setup this way. With the OMP still in the car I'd just leave it alone and premix at 0.5 Oz per gallon
@@NateRist which oil you use?
Too bad the new motor is so covered. It’s such a cool color
if you look in the engine bay at just the right angle you can see the front housing 13B mazda logo lol
Before I even watch. I am guessing side seal
👀👀