Oh dear, the laminated styles and rails - especially on a softwood, external door! You'll be sanding, and painting for England, on an annual basis. The paint looks good, though. Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to share.
My external door is constructed with single pieces of timber Charlie, however it was considerably more expensive. The paint system seems quite impressive and i will be looking to try this on my wooden garage doors
Last year , in December, in Wisconsin I painted a lot of my exterior doors and doorways. I also regraded my driveway. It was a very hot and dry year until after Christmas.. my first year without a winter. The average temp was 100 and it rained once at my house, it rained 7,27,24.
Hi Charlie Yes using laminated wood for a door is just penny pinching , there’s no advantage whatsoever as regards warping and twisting but there’s definitely a cost saving especially if you can do it on the premises . You may have noticed that timber in many DIY stores has precision joints with its length , which is all done to reduce cost and of course waste . But I suppose it’s the world we live in , just don’t know what Mr Chippendale would have made of it . Probably firewood bless him , and bless you Charlie for all you do for the the people who enjoy Do it Yourself . Good on you mate 👍
Thanks for this Charlie. I’ll try it out next year when warmer and dryer. I built a studio in the garden during lockdown and used plastic cladding for exterior walls ( good choice) and wooden doors and windows ( not so good) I was recommended Johnson’s flexible paint, coloured to match the cladding. It was a nightmare to apply and later it bubbled where the knots were, despite using knotting fluid etc. I look forward to success next year. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
4:29 - I like how you presented the door topic and showed the imperfections you got right and also the comparison from what has been offered and what has arrived. Of cause not a big deal but could become a big deal if it gets delivered to an owner who is not so carefully inspecting things like this where then insects can enter the door from inside , preferably ants and bees and what not. And 5 years later no one can explain a damage like that except the insects had done their job even though it had been caused by the carpenter. Thanks for sharing this side story in such kind way too
Something new for me to try 😊 I discovered Bedec MSP not too long ago which has been great on our sash windows. Similarly it doesn't _need_ a primer or undercoat (but can benefit from them) and goes on pretty much anything.
Perfect timing Charlie…. I have a large double garage door I’m starting to repair, wooden framed door, T&G panelling on the front… this treatex product looks like the perfect solution to painting them as the t&g id likely to expand and shrink… Thankyou.. top advice…
Good video For painting outside I always go for oil based (organic solvent like turpentine), I don't take chances with water based paint and rely on "great promises". Besides that, forget about the word "EASY". It is hard labor, sanding, primer, filler, sanding , primer again, and then at least 2 or maybe 3 layers of paint, light sanding in between. And go for the best brand, I use Sikkens (Holland) from Akzo Nobel, yes it will cost you more, but it will last for years and years and can take a beating. No shortcuts 💪
Well, you're just wrong. Flexible micro-porous water-based paints are far, far better. I've had 19 years from Bedec Multi-Surface paint on some windows I made in a previous house, and when I came to repaint them (aftewr 19 years), the preparation amounted to nothing more than cleaning the old paintwork with a sponge.
@@RS-Amsterdam No, they're the oldest windows that I have personally painted. I have done many since, but the far bigger story that as an architect I have been specifying this paint for all exterior woodwork for 17 or 18 years.....literally hundreds of projects.....and have never had one single instance of premature failure. This product has transformed the specificying of exterior paint, and my professional indemnity insurance is no longer at risk as a result.
Loving all the new content - lovely instructions and leaving in the inperfections leaves lots of learning points for others following in your footsteps!
Thank you so much Charlie for all of your amazing videos 🙏👏. Have exactly the same after 6 months with other paint brands, so I have order the Treatex to try. They have a great range of colours to match to as well. Keep up the great work and videos, very much appreciated. 👍😁
I used Dulux exterior gloss paint on my 120 year old front door. I had to use a lot of 2-part wood filler beforehand to replace the bits that were rotted. It looked great but 10 months later it looked awful, particularly where the filler had been used. It will be interesting to see if the filler that Charlie has used (albeit tiny in places) has a deleterious effect on the paint coating. Anyway, this video has been very useful to me and has demonstrated that the paint for exterior timber does not have to be a solvent based gloss.
Would be great to see the fitting video - also, it would be great to cover external locks as this can be a bit of a mine field. I only discovered this week that neither of my front door locks confirm to the correct British Standards to be covered by insurance
@@danwoodward7738 hahaha yeah you’re definitely not getting it for £680, but then it’s definitely not needing any screwing back together or holes filling a year later 🤣
I'm in exactly the same position re windows & waiting for render to be done. I used the soudal window foam also. whilst its not uv resistant and should be covered, when I spoke to soudal on the phone, they didnt seem hugely concerned about it being exposed for a time. They did say that even a coat of paint would be sufficent to cover in the interim.
Experienced joiner here 🙂 The price was dirt cheap, so on that basis alone you got what you paid for. You also specified a solid pine door so will get all the associated problems that come with it. There are much better products on the market these days and have been for decades now. The shrinkage shown by the tenons is because it's been in full sun, come Winter it'll reverse. Wood moves constantly with the M/C. Softwood is worse, hardwood is more stable. The holes in the top you'll get on any hand made M&T door, they're for the spiders, sorry haunches. No water can ever, ever get up there, neither can anyone's sight so they're a moot point. They'll be on the bottom too. They put the paint around the edges of the panel to help you, it's supposed to be done like that and shows forethought. It's so that when the panel shrinks it'll show the correct colour. The holes for the latch and key are fine, it's standard practice. You don't spend time making something beautiful on a cheap/any door when it's never going to be seen. It's a bit like commenting on the paintwork quality in your cars wheel arches or under the bonnet. That bead should not have come off. The 'engineered' wood is poor. It's been done for stability, to stop splits and shakes, yet hasn't worked very well at all so yeah, big failure there and I can't really understand a joinery company doing it. The big manufacturers use a method similar to how 'blockboard' is made like. It's the same construction as yours, but with a face veneer over it. Can't comment on the rebate over the weather bar as I can't see it well enough. From the inside, If the gap at the top of the door when shut is unequal then it's a fitting error, if it looks fine then it's a manufacturing mistake. It's way too early to comment on paint longevity, report back in a few years time. It's wrong to blame paint degradation on anything other than the sun. Period. It's UV which breaks paint (and many other things) down. The paintwork on the North facing walls of a house last a lot longer than that on the South facing ones, even as much as twice as long sometimes. The drip mould doesn't look like it projects far enough out, so when you come to render up to it it's going to look an eyesore so watch out for that. The door frame should have been centred in the opening when fixed, not all to one side. Always, always round off sharp corners on woodwork. If you don't that's where the paint will fail, it'll split right on that sharp corner and peel back from there. DON'T make the mistake EVERYONE does of waiting until the paint is flaking to start re-decorating, by that time it's too late. Paintwork needs more coats on it before this to prevent it happening. Prevention is very much better than cure here. Once the sun has broken it down and it's brittle, it's buggered. That window should have had an overhanging bottom bead with capillary groove or similar, bad design like something from the 70s. End of report 🙂
Wow, one of the best comments 👌 Massive thanks. On the paint on the panels, I get that, the problem was it was the wrong colour. In terms of the gaps not being equal, I had to do that unfortunately because the door opening wasn't straight, so to true up the frame on the diagonals having that gap on the right was necessary unfortunately. I hear what you say about the drip mould. I agree, it's pretty pathetic. Luckily I'm planning to install a porch. Yep, next time research better options. Thanks again.
@@CharlieDIYte It was The Best as it was factual, informative, neutral and from a professional 🙃 Perversely It'll get the least amount of likes and I would have got more by telling you how wonderful you are 🤣 I'm kind of indebted to you for showing us that breathable insulation system in detail, i'm going to start putting it in our house this Winter.
Hi Charlie, Nice finish on your door, It's a shame the door was poorly made by the manufacture, your fixes has sorted it out and it's looking good. Great video catch you soon Take care
Linseed paint is best for exterior timber which is the original exterior woodwork paint but only problem is now it doesn't contain lead which has been replaced zinc oxide which doesn't seem half as affective against mould growth. The modern equivalent I would say is owatrol oil with owatrol deco
Hi Charlie. thanks for the video. i would interested to know what weather strip you used on the door cill. I was sent a thick rubber one with the door frame I bought but it has never really fit properly and keeps getting kicked out.
Re door ,I think you got what you paid for to be fair Charlie. Personally the only time I do a glue up would be on a rail if the original door had a massive bottom rail or large panel or the depth won’t fit in the thicknesser other than that i avoid.
Hi Charlie, i know this isn't related to your current video, but just watched your post on using silicon profiling tools, does it matter what edge you use? One side is bevelled and the opposite has a flat edge?
Hi Charlie, I’m a painting decorator and I’ve been for the last 40 years. I’m not familiar with this product. Could you tell me. how it copes with knots and the resin that comes out of them I do find that waterbase Paints fail in that area. and also where you obtain this product as it seems perfect for some future work I’ve got in the spring and summer to come.
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, as far as I can tell repair care has been available for a while but is only used by top end tradesmen. Apparently it is the only filler that English Heritage will allow other than replacement with wood. I have used it on a large sash window with excellent results. Previously used two pack which soon cracks and breaks down. Check out you tube videos by repair care themselves and others. I have told to drill out external knots and rake out all joints cracks and any rot and there are various repair care products that can be used for specific needs. It seems brilliant and I look forward to your future video about it. Remember where you heard about it first!! Regards Carl
It's a tricky one. Basically yes and I know quite a few people round here who have done that - you just have to monitor the install very carefully to make sure it's not botched with a load of filler prices to hide the gaps. But there are some very good quality wood systems around - just not generally made in the UK. I thought with these at least I could replace the windows in the future - the frames being the tricky bit because they're set in the insulation internally, until I realised he'd made them from multiple pieces that are delaminating too 😪
Charlie, with your skills I think you might have made a better door yourself. The glazing is obviously tricky for a DIYer, but I'm sure you could've found a solution.
You must be a little bit masocistic to have all those wooden windows and doors. Even with the best paint you'll be repainting/repairing them for the rest of your life. Love the video❤
I wonder if they follow you and will see this video and contact you to discuss. Good of you not to mention them by name, I'd be very upset if I'd paid that much for a bespoke door to receive something of such poor quality.
I like the look of the door but it’s been badly made. I’m a carpenter/joiner and I’d never piece together timber like that to make the rails. I recently fitted a Howdens hand painted kitchen and one of the lengths of cornice had a finger/comb joint that I didn’t spot until I’d fitted it and now I can’t unsee it. It’s just penny pinching. And don’t get me started on the depth of their end panels but that’s going off topic…
In my personal experience, the paint industries transition to water based paints (and tripling the price of those products), hasn't proven benificial to anything but their bottom line and perhaps the environment if you believe the greenwash. Exterior woodwork needs an oil based paint system applied correctly , the tins of coloured water loose their colour very very quickly, can be a pig to apply to a satisfactory finish, and tend not to have much if any UV or weather resistance. Where as you may only need to repaint oil based exterior woodwork every five + years or so, water based gloss paints need an anual repainting (great for the paint manufacturers).I have given up on water based gloss paints altogether and quite a few painters I know always pre warn their customers as to the potential shortcomings of water based gloss paint if that is their preference. White water based gloss seems to be the worst, almost yellowing before your eyes if exposed to direct sunlight.
Yeah, for 680 quid , poor quality for doors, definitely expected better quality. I would say door parts from 1 piece probably would twist and warp more. looks like glued parts was been made with glueing together flat joint -not toothed but. Result paint lasted better as door itself.🤷♂️ After some time, would love to see update , for example next summer And regarding expanding foam, any uncovered foam in sunligt gets destroyed, even worse its becomes as sponge, with absobing moisture. So definitely must be covered.
As you've repainted the whole door, wouldn't it have been belt and braces to put screws in every batten? ( would have took a while but at least it's done).. Bit of a joke that door construction really 😮
I loved the look of our old hardwood door, despite being over 40 years old it was completely strong and solid, no rot at all and aesthetically really pleasing. The work involved though was just getting too much. Painting every few years outside was tedious, cleaning and painting inside every year due to condensation and mould was even worse. Draughty in the winter, sticking in the frame when damp just got really annoying. The new PVC door isn't anywhere near as pretty but it's warm, draught free, just needs and occasional wipe down and no sticking in the frame.
Sorry Charlie but you admitted the door was cheap and that should have set off alarm bells. Now you're paying the price with the extra work. "Buy cheap, buy twice" springs to mind, which is ok in certain circumstances but not for an external door.
I simply don't understand your thinking. You extol the virtues of Bedec Barn Paint, which is designed for sawn timber, and then instead of going for the Bedec product designed for planed timber (MSP), you try something else entirely. I've had 19 years life between coats of Bedec MSP on windows. I'm an architect.....and Bedec's 2 flexible micro-porous water-based paints are the end of any worries I had for most of my professional life when it came to specifying finishes.
Hardwoods still move. If oak wants to move, it will, and with force. But a more stable wood definitely helps the paint and subsequently, weatherproofing. They aren't cheap though!
I love this channel it's actually a documentary of a man's descent into madness driven by water and oil.
Yes Charlie, I would love to see you fitting the door. 👍
Brand new videos from Charlie DIY and Stuart’s Proper DIY! Loving it!
Thanks mate - couldn't do it without you guys 🙏👊
the state of the door they delivered you! 4:54 looks like they dug it out with a spoon!
Oh dear, the laminated styles and rails - especially on a softwood, external door! You'll be sanding, and painting for England, on an annual basis. The paint looks good, though.
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to share.
Yep and those window frames 😪🤦
My external door is constructed with single pieces of timber Charlie, however it was considerably more expensive. The paint system seems quite impressive and i will be looking to try this on my wooden garage doors
Last year , in December, in Wisconsin I painted a lot of my exterior doors and doorways. I also regraded my driveway. It was a very hot and dry year until after Christmas.. my first year without a winter. The average temp was 100 and it rained once at my house, it rained 7,27,24.
Love to see the door fitting
Hi Charlie Yes using laminated wood for a door is just penny pinching , there’s no advantage whatsoever as regards warping and twisting but there’s definitely a cost saving especially if you can do it on the premises . You may have noticed that timber in many DIY stores has precision joints with its length , which is all done to reduce cost and of course waste . But I suppose it’s the world we live in , just don’t know what Mr Chippendale would have made of it . Probably firewood bless him , and bless you Charlie for all you do for the the people who enjoy Do it Yourself . Good on you mate 👍
Thanks, really appreciate that 👊
wake up babe, Charlie DIYte and Proper DIY have dropped two absolute bangers!
Makes Sunday morning a bit more bearable, tbh
Thanks for this Charlie. I’ll try it out next year when warmer and dryer. I built a studio in the garden during lockdown and used plastic cladding for exterior walls ( good choice) and wooden doors and windows ( not so good) I was recommended Johnson’s flexible paint, coloured to match the cladding. It was a nightmare to apply and later it bubbled where the knots were, despite using knotting fluid etc.
I look forward to success next year.
Thank you for sharing your experiences.
Great video Charlie, that door looks superb - tempted to show my wife….but that will only be another job to add to my list 🤦♂️🤣
4:29 - I like how you presented the door topic and showed the imperfections you got right and also the comparison from what has been offered and what has arrived. Of cause not a big deal but could become a big deal if it gets delivered to an owner who is not so carefully inspecting things like this where then insects can enter the door from inside , preferably ants and bees and what not. And 5 years later no one can explain a damage like that except the insects had done their job even though it had been caused by the carpenter.
Thanks for sharing this side story in such kind way too
Something new for me to try 😊
I discovered Bedec MSP not too long ago which has been great on our sash windows. Similarly it doesn't _need_ a primer or undercoat (but can benefit from them) and goes on pretty much anything.
Thanks Charlie! Take care & stay safe.
Thanks Doug. 👊
Perfect timing Charlie…. I have a large double garage door I’m starting to repair, wooden framed door, T&G panelling on the front… this treatex product looks like the perfect solution to painting them as the t&g id likely to expand and shrink… Thankyou.. top advice…
Good video
For painting outside I always go for oil based (organic solvent like turpentine), I don't take chances with water based paint and rely on "great promises".
Besides that, forget about the word "EASY".
It is hard labor, sanding, primer, filler, sanding , primer again, and then at least 2 or maybe 3 layers of paint, light sanding in between.
And go for the best brand, I use Sikkens (Holland) from Akzo Nobel, yes it will cost you more, but it will last for years and years and can take a beating.
No shortcuts 💪
Well, you're just wrong. Flexible micro-porous water-based paints are far, far better. I've had 19 years from Bedec Multi-Surface paint on some windows I made in a previous house, and when I came to repaint them (aftewr 19 years), the preparation amounted to nothing more than cleaning the old paintwork with a sponge.
@@MikeAG333 so you have done some windows of one house and that's proof you are right mmmm don't think so
@@RS-Amsterdam No, they're the oldest windows that I have personally painted. I have done many since, but the far bigger story that as an architect I have been specifying this paint for all exterior woodwork for 17 or 18 years.....literally hundreds of projects.....and have never had one single instance of premature failure. This product has transformed the specificying of exterior paint, and my professional indemnity insurance is no longer at risk as a result.
Loving all the new content - lovely instructions and leaving in the inperfections leaves lots of learning points for others following in your footsteps!
Thank you so much Charlie for all of your amazing videos 🙏👏. Have exactly the same after 6 months with other paint brands, so I have order the Treatex to try.
They have a great range of colours to match to as well.
Keep up the great work and videos, very much appreciated. 👍😁
Excellent timing. Got new timber garage doors installed
I used Dulux exterior gloss paint on my 120 year old front door. I had to use a lot of 2-part wood filler beforehand to replace the bits that were rotted. It looked great but 10 months later it looked awful, particularly where the filler had been used. It will be interesting to see if the filler that Charlie has used (albeit tiny in places) has a deleterious effect on the paint coating. Anyway, this video has been very useful to me and has demonstrated that the paint for exterior timber does not have to be a solvent based gloss.
Two part filler is a waste of time and money, try Repair Care products expensive but they won’t fail . Dulux Exterior Paint isn’t that good either
@@bestcrazyboy8487 Thanks for the tip.
Looking forward to your videos about outside wall plaster issue and solution.
Bedec barnpaint and MSP is great stuff to use
Another great video. We can all learn so much from your knowledge and mistakes. Thankyou
We love you ❤️ And never stop experimenting 👍🏻
Get that door frame installation video posted please Charlie.
All the best
Zinsser Bin Aqua (Green tin) for painting knots or knotting to prevent bleeding. Bleeding knots. Brilliant stuff. 😊
Yes I could have done with a bit of knot treatment. The Treatex didn't do too badly with the knots though
Definitely want to see the installation, although I think you’d have done a far better job making the door than they did!
Thanks, ordered a sample of their paint.
Great paint, shoddy door!
Another cracking video Charlie - keep em coming! The barn paint you used - no undercoat etc? BTW that door construction is shocking
Would be great to see the fitting video - also, it would be great to cover external locks as this can be a bit of a mine field. I only discovered this week that neither of my front door locks confirm to the correct British Standards to be covered by insurance
Cheers Joshua. I'll add these to the list 👊
Looks like a Bradshaw joinery collab would have been the one for that door Charlie 😉
He's (Bradshaw Joinery) is next level. 😂
@@danwoodward7738 hahaha yeah you’re definitely not getting it for £680, but then it’s definitely not needing any screwing back together or holes filling a year later 🤣
Add me as a supporter of Ollie. His work is world class but unfortunately out of the price range of mere mortals!
I'm in exactly the same position re windows & waiting for render to be done. I used the soudal window foam also.
whilst its not uv resistant and should be covered, when I spoke to soudal on the phone, they didnt seem hugely concerned about it being exposed for a time. They did say that even a coat of paint would be sufficent to cover in the interim.
Yes if you looked at that bit I showed only the outer mm or two is degraded.
Experienced joiner here 🙂 The price was dirt cheap, so on that basis alone you got what you paid for. You also specified a solid pine door so will get all the associated problems that come with it.
There are much better products on the market these days and have been for decades now.
The shrinkage shown by the tenons is because it's been in full sun, come Winter it'll reverse. Wood moves constantly with the M/C. Softwood is worse, hardwood is more stable.
The holes in the top you'll get on any hand made M&T door, they're for the spiders, sorry haunches. No water can ever, ever get up there, neither can anyone's sight so they're a moot point. They'll be on the bottom too.
They put the paint around the edges of the panel to help you, it's supposed to be done like that and shows forethought. It's so that when the panel shrinks it'll show the correct colour.
The holes for the latch and key are fine, it's standard practice. You don't spend time making something beautiful on a cheap/any door when it's never going to be seen. It's a bit like commenting on the paintwork quality in your cars wheel arches or under the bonnet.
That bead should not have come off.
The 'engineered' wood is poor. It's been done for stability, to stop splits and shakes, yet hasn't worked very well at all so yeah, big failure there and I can't really understand a joinery company doing it. The big manufacturers use a method similar to how 'blockboard' is made like. It's the same construction as yours, but with a face veneer over it.
Can't comment on the rebate over the weather bar as I can't see it well enough. From the inside, If the gap at the top of the door when shut is unequal then it's a fitting error, if it looks fine then it's a manufacturing mistake.
It's way too early to comment on paint longevity, report back in a few years time. It's wrong to blame paint degradation on anything other than the sun. Period. It's UV which breaks paint (and many other things) down. The paintwork on the North facing walls of a house last a lot longer than that on the South facing ones, even as much as twice as long sometimes.
The drip mould doesn't look like it projects far enough out, so when you come to render up to it it's going to look an eyesore so watch out for that.
The door frame should have been centred in the opening when fixed, not all to one side.
Always, always round off sharp corners on woodwork. If you don't that's where the paint will fail, it'll split right on that sharp corner and peel back from there.
DON'T make the mistake EVERYONE does of waiting until the paint is flaking to start re-decorating, by that time it's too late.
Paintwork needs more coats on it before this to prevent it happening. Prevention is very much better than cure here. Once the sun has broken it down and it's brittle, it's buggered.
That window should have had an overhanging bottom bead with capillary groove or similar, bad design like something from the 70s.
End of report 🙂
Wow, one of the best comments 👌 Massive thanks. On the paint on the panels, I get that, the problem was it was the wrong colour. In terms of the gaps not being equal, I had to do that unfortunately because the door opening wasn't straight, so to true up the frame on the diagonals having that gap on the right was necessary unfortunately. I hear what you say about the drip mould. I agree, it's pretty pathetic. Luckily I'm planning to install a porch. Yep, next time research better options. Thanks again.
@@CharlieDIYte It was The Best as it was factual, informative, neutral and from a professional 🙃
Perversely It'll get the least amount of likes and I would have got more by telling you how wonderful you are 🤣
I'm kind of indebted to you for showing us that breathable insulation system in detail, i'm going to start putting it in our house this Winter.
Hi Charlie, Nice finish on your door, It's a shame the door was poorly made by the manufacture, your fixes has sorted it out and it's looking good. Great video catch you soon Take care
Thanks Shaun 👊
Hi Charlie, I'd love to see the door install. My front door is absolutely crap needs sorting!
Pls share the door fitting vid as well. Thanks Charlie ❤
I like sealing before primer for natural bare wood.
Fabulous video as they all are thank you for sharing 😊
Linseed paint is best for exterior timber which is the original exterior woodwork paint but only problem is now it doesn't contain lead which has been replaced zinc oxide which doesn't seem half as affective against mould growth. The modern equivalent I would say is owatrol oil with owatrol deco
Hi Charlie good video as always. Would like to see the door installation please 👍
Please make a video on installing the front door if you have the footage 😊 thanks for another great video
Cheers Matt, I'll add this to the list 👊
6:13 would be interesting to see how you installed that door frame.
Thank you for sharing with us 🙏
Nice colour
👍👍👍. Thank you Charlie
Cheers Pete 👊
Please can we see the Installation. Also, I tend to use rollers on wood now for the finish, pretty sure this is from your recommendations in the past.
Do you think this would be a good option paint system on OSB on a new garden shed in the planning…great channel by the way👍🏻👍🏻
Yes I don't see why not. Thanks 👍🏻
Another great video Charlie... That door is one of the worst I have encountered...that frame in five...Definitely Not On!
Paint looks good, but guess it should for £30 a litre.
Great video and clear explanations as usual.
Try Illbruk FM330 pro air seal foam. It is very good! Nice paint by the look of it. Do they supply it to any RAL colour?
Great tip, thanks. No just the colours you saw in those swatches.
Try linseed oil paint for outdoor paintwork. Takes a long time to dry but vastly superior to other paints.
Thanks Howard 👊
Very useful video! What paint would you recommend for bath panels ?
Hi Charlie. thanks for the video. i would interested to know what weather strip you used on the door cill. I was sent a thick rubber one with the door frame I bought but it has never really fit properly and keeps getting kicked out.
That door was professionally made?! Wow. I'd have sent it back.
Rubbish isn't it. Unfortunately at this stage of the job I was looking to reduce costs.
Would this be any good for painting over old paint?
Charlie. You're the font. Recommendation if u could for a great paint for pvc windows etc. Much obliged..!!
Re door ,I think you got what you paid for to be fair Charlie. Personally the only time I do a glue up would be on a rail if the original door had a massive bottom rail or large panel or the depth won’t fit in the thicknesser other than that i avoid.
Thanks mate, appreciate that, and yes I agree. 👊
Hi Charlie, i know this isn't related to your current video, but just watched your post on using silicon profiling tools, does it matter what edge you use? One side is bevelled and the opposite has a flat edge?
Yes the bevelled edge goes behind so you're pulling the flat edge into the silicone.
Hi Charlie! Have you any experience with the Cuprinol Garden Shades range for exterior woodwork?
Would this paint be hard wearing enough for stairs? At least the sides as we are planning to have a runner down the middle...
Looking forward to swinging the doors, we have originals that open the 'wrong way' and I want to turn them round...
Hi Charlie, I’m a painting decorator and I’ve been for the last 40 years. I’m not familiar with this product. Could you tell me. how it copes with knots and the resin that comes out of them I do find that waterbase Paints fail in that area. and also where you obtain this product as it seems perfect for some future work I’ve got in the spring and summer to come.
Yes it's coped pretty well with the knots. There's a link in the Description together with an offer code 👊
Hi Charlie have you come across repair care for wood repairs , much better than 2 pack fillers. Ideal for your window in this video Carl
Thanks Carl, I hadn't. For deep repairs I've used EHB60 and ERC10 but I'll definitely give some of this a go 👌👊
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, as far as I can tell repair care has been available for a while but is only used by top end tradesmen. Apparently it is the only filler that English Heritage will allow other than replacement with wood. I have used it on a large sash window with excellent results. Previously used two pack which soon cracks and breaks down. Check out you tube videos by repair care themselves and others. I have told to drill out external knots and rake out all joints cracks and any rot and there are various repair care products that can be used for specific needs. It seems brilliant and I look forward to your future video about it. Remember where you heard about it first!! Regards Carl
What non stuck film gun do you use ?
And where to grab one
Aren't you suppose to seal the wood knots with a chemical to stop the sap coming through?
Could this paint be used on a Feather edge boarded shed?
Yes definitely
So what you're saying is get PVC windows?
It's a tricky one. Basically yes and I know quite a few people round here who have done that - you just have to monitor the install very carefully to make sure it's not botched with a load of filler prices to hide the gaps. But there are some very good quality wood systems around - just not generally made in the UK. I thought with these at least I could replace the windows in the future - the frames being the tricky bit because they're set in the insulation internally, until I realised he'd made them from multiple pieces that are delaminating too 😪
A lot of companies are using stave sheets.
As a trained joiner that door and frame is a lash up, they should be ashamed of themselves.
Thanks Alan. Yes I don't know why I still use them. Cost really. 😪
Door looks like it's been built from wood they've had lying around rather than from solid pieces of timber. Poor construction in my opinion.
Clearly rushed the job also.
Charlie, with your skills I think you might have made a better door yourself. The glazing is obviously tricky for a DIYer, but I'm sure you could've found a solution.
That's very kind👊 I've often been tempted to make a door. I think I need a few more specialist tools - although drive gates are on the horizon.
You must be a little bit masocistic to have all those wooden windows and doors. Even with the best paint you'll be repainting/repairing them for the rest of your life. Love the video❤
You're probably right. Was just desperate to preserve the character of the cottage though..
first time I see softwood used for a front door, not sure this is a good idea. If you paint it anyway why not go for composite materials?
If Id paid that much for THAT door I wouldnt have been happy at all
First - great channel BTW!
Thanks 👊
I wonder if they follow you and will see this video and contact you to discuss. Good of you not to mention them by name, I'd be very upset if I'd paid that much for a bespoke door to receive something of such poor quality.
That was really cheap.
I like the look of the door but it’s been badly made. I’m a carpenter/joiner and I’d never piece together timber like that to make the rails. I recently fitted a Howdens hand painted kitchen and one of the lengths of cornice had a finger/comb joint that I didn’t spot until I’d fitted it and now I can’t unsee it. It’s just penny pinching. And don’t get me started on the depth of their end panels but that’s going off topic…
Thanks Andy - as I thought 👊
The door hasn't been constructed well, but it was quite cheap.
The timber alone would cost close to £600 if you used solid slow-grown joinery quality. Pay £1000 for a quality door and frame, at least.
Agreed.
In my personal experience, the paint industries transition to water based paints (and tripling the price of those products), hasn't proven benificial to anything but their bottom line and perhaps the environment if you believe the greenwash. Exterior woodwork needs an oil based paint system applied correctly , the tins of coloured water loose their colour very very quickly, can be a pig to apply to a satisfactory finish, and tend not to have much if any UV or weather resistance. Where as you may only need to repaint oil based exterior woodwork every five + years or so, water based gloss paints need an anual repainting (great for the paint manufacturers).I have given up on water based gloss paints altogether and quite a few painters I know always pre warn their customers as to the potential shortcomings of water based gloss paint if that is their preference. White water based gloss seems to be the worst, almost yellowing before your eyes if exposed to direct sunlight.
Yeah, for 680 quid , poor quality for doors, definitely expected better quality. I would say door parts from 1 piece probably would twist and warp more. looks like glued parts was been made with glueing together flat joint -not toothed but. Result paint lasted better as door itself.🤷♂️ After some time, would love to see update , for example next summer
And regarding expanding foam, any uncovered foam in sunligt gets destroyed, even worse its becomes as sponge, with absobing moisture. So definitely must be covered.
Thanks 👊
As you've repainted the whole door, wouldn't it have been belt and braces to put screws in every batten? ( would have took a while but at least it's done).. Bit of a joke that door construction really 😮
Yes probably would Brian. I was just conscious that I had limited painting time. If any more need doing I'll hit them in the spring.
I loved the look of our old hardwood door, despite being over 40 years old it was completely strong and solid, no rot at all and aesthetically really pleasing. The work involved though was just getting too much. Painting every few years outside was tedious, cleaning and painting inside every year due to condensation and mould was even worse. Draughty in the winter, sticking in the frame when damp just got really annoying.
The new PVC door isn't anywhere near as pretty but it's warm, draught free, just needs and occasional wipe down and no sticking in the frame.
Should have used hard wood
Should have had it made by www.youtube.com/@BradshawJoinery
If the door was of such poor quality why didn’t you send it back.
The company that made the door really should be ashamed of their work.
Sorry Charlie but you admitted the door was cheap and that should have set off alarm bells. Now you're paying the price with the extra work. "Buy cheap, buy twice" springs to mind, which is ok in certain circumstances but not for an external door.
Fair point but on jobs like this where I was haemorrhaging money every week I was just trying to keep the costs manageable..
I simply don't understand your thinking. You extol the virtues of Bedec Barn Paint, which is designed for sawn timber, and then instead of going for the Bedec product designed for planed timber (MSP), you try something else entirely. I've had 19 years life between coats of Bedec MSP on windows. I'm an architect.....and Bedec's 2 flexible micro-porous water-based paints are the end of any worries I had for most of my professional life when it came to specifying finishes.
"filling the hole was quite satisfying" - Don't laugh you are a 47 year old man and this is not fu*snorks*
Paint - great, joinery - awful!
It is, isn't it!
If the door was hard wood wouldn't have had as much movement but then it would have cost double .
Hardwoods still move. If oak wants to move, it will, and with force.
But a more stable wood definitely helps the paint and subsequently, weatherproofing. They aren't cheap though!
Terrible construction...you should have gone with a plastic door Charlie...🙁
£680 quid for a bespoke door! Far too cheap thats why its shit! Guarantee they didn't serve a apprenticeship !
Agreed 👊
That door is awful.
Not great is it 😪