Nice job Cory....quick tip though mate, you don't need to take the alternator apart when clocking it, if you just take out the 4 bolts you can swivel it around to the desired position without having to separate it 😀👍
Hello I found you video helpful I have a series3 for in 24v and I am doing the same upgrade only my generator is on the other side. And set up for radio gear
I think youll see it squeel quickly bit of water etc. I would extend the bracket early now etc. Anyways thanks for the vid. Much enjoyed! Cheers from melb australia!
Hi Cory, great video. I've still got the Lucas C40 generator fitted, but I'm worried it's not going to keep up with the charging over the winter noting its not going to be driven too far. This will be a good one to keep in my back pocket if I ever want to update. Cheers!
Thank you Sir!! Finding a Lucas anything in the states is very difficult and with a high price tag. I figure an American alternator will be cheaper and easier to find. 😀
Thank you for watching. I saw he’s kit. It was a little pricey for me. So I came up with this solution in the video. I like having the ALT in the factory position down low.
Great vid again. Have you ever come across a double-grooved pulley for these kind of alternaotors? I would like to fit a more powerful alternator to my 200TDi 109 Series 3.
Thank you Sir! I’ll let you know if I find a double pulley for the Alternator. It would be nice to fit one. Could you use the pulley from 200TDI on a 10si alt? I wonder?!?!
There is a certain type of range rover v8 100a alternator that should fit a 200tdi with a washer as spacer and your old pulley(and upgraded wiring). That doesnt help you with the double pulley though.
@@rickz9495 Thanks for the quick response and the tip. I will check this. Apart from this, there some "upgrade" alternators (120Amp ?) offered by , f.e. Paddocks..., branded Bripart, as I learned in the time.
Hi and thanks for sharing,as fiddling around to get a non-standard part fit, could cost a lot if time. I had to reposition a Defender alternator to a 200 TDi Discovery engine, which we swapped into a S3 109 LHD. I would like to improve the drive by installing double-grooved pulleys - similar like the 24 V mil spec. Have you ever come across such pulleys for the civilian Delcos? I fitted the alternator with the lower diesel- bracket ( die -cast) and an adapter kit from Steve Parkers Land Rovers, UK. By now, it is not possible to hold the tension jn the singld V-belt for than 6 weeks. I am a little bit fed up with crawling under the truck to give it another go for the next 6 weeks. Regards Heinz
Thank you Sir! I guess if you find a double pulley that has the same inside diameter of the original pulley on the alternator. It should work but you’ll also need a double pulley on the crank, too. I haven’t seen any for the Delco. Can you buy a smaller belt for your alternator? Belts come in many sizes. Check out V Belt Guys website. They have all the sizes listed.
@@HeinerStorchennest1 I just had to replace the belt on 1979 VW Rabbit (Golf) with a smaller belt because the correct belt was too big and slipping. Just like your belt. Funny, how we all deal with same issues all around the world. 😀
Thank you for watching. I bypassed the dash amp meter. The ALT puts out too much amps to use the original gauge. I may have to research how to hook it up and make future video about it. Thank you!
@@conrad1468 Thanks! Yes, I am in the same boat, going to bypass it too for now. I think I am going to add a small voltmeter someplace. Maybe even more useful than amp meter. I can see charging voltage and the charge of the battery. Nice video, I'm sure it helped many people.
If it's charging at 16 volts you've either destroyed your voltage regulator, or whatever meter you measured it on is bad, or you were sold a defective alternator. If the meter is correct the battery will eventually explode. Maybe In your face if you're looking at it at the time, or, as you're going down the road. In any case I'd buy a fire extinguisher, and a first aid kit and keep it on the front seat. If you used the existing wiring for anything, be sure you bypassed the generator's old style voltage regulator. Personally, I think it's wired incorrectly, or you meter is setup incorrectly. The bolt on the back of the alternator is not a ground connection, It's there to bolt on a spacer that comes with GM engine setups. You shouldn't have to ground it as the mechanical bolt connection provides ground, although you can ground it with a heavy cable directly to the battery if you want, also I'd run the positive power feed directly to the battery Pos. terminal. The jumper from the pos. terminal will work like that but it's really to sense the power to tell it when to turn on the coils, The farther away from the alternator is best as to truly sense the voltage drop which switches the coils. As the alternator field coils draw about 3 amps it's best to wire it correctly for proper switching.
Nice job Cory....quick tip though mate, you don't need to take the alternator apart when clocking it, if you just take out the 4 bolts you can swivel it around to the desired position without having to separate it 😀👍
Thank you Sir! That’s a good point. I was afraid of braking something spinning or ripping something. I’ll remember next time.
@@conrad1468 you're very welcome Cory 👍
My problem is that I like to see what is inside. Good tip for me! Time saver!
Thanks for the video, you sure got the alternator to line up nicely. I think the 16V you are measuring is a bit high, around 14.4 would be better.
Hello I found you video helpful I have a series3 for in 24v and I am doing the same upgrade only my generator is on the other side. And set up for radio gear
Cool. Is it a 24V alternator you’re installing?
That looks like a Lucas A127 alternator, used to build them a few years ago.
Right, same but different mounting points.
I think youll see it squeel quickly bit of water etc. I would extend the bracket early now etc. Anyways thanks for the vid. Much enjoyed!
Cheers from melb australia!
Thank you Sir! I agree, the bracket will need extended when the belt breaks in. They always like to stretch.
Hi Cory, great video. I've still got the Lucas C40 generator fitted, but I'm worried it's not going to keep up with the charging over the winter noting its not going to be driven too far. This will be a good one to keep in my back pocket if I ever want to update. Cheers!
Thank you Sir!! Finding a Lucas anything in the states is very difficult and with a high price tag. I figure an American alternator will be cheaper and easier to find. 😀
Pangolin 4x4 sells a raised Delco bracket just for this conversion. Well worth the $80
Thank you for watching. I saw he’s kit. It was a little pricey for me. So I came up with this solution in the video. I like having the ALT in the factory position down low.
Great vid again. Have you ever come across a double-grooved pulley for these kind of alternaotors? I would like to fit a more powerful alternator to my 200TDi 109 Series 3.
Thank you Sir! I’ll let you know if I find a double pulley for the Alternator. It would be nice to fit one. Could you use the pulley from 200TDI on a 10si alt? I wonder?!?!
There is a certain type of range rover v8 100a alternator that should fit a 200tdi with a washer as spacer and your old pulley(and upgraded wiring).
That doesnt help you with the double pulley though.
@@rickz9495 Thanks for the quick response and the tip. I will check this. Apart from this, there some "upgrade" alternators (120Amp ?) offered by , f.e. Paddocks..., branded Bripart, as I learned in the time.
Hi and thanks for sharing,as fiddling around to get a non-standard part fit, could cost a lot if time. I had to reposition a Defender alternator to a 200 TDi Discovery engine, which we swapped into a S3 109 LHD. I would like to improve the drive by installing double-grooved pulleys - similar like the 24 V mil spec. Have you ever come across such pulleys for the civilian Delcos? I fitted the alternator with the lower diesel- bracket ( die -cast) and an adapter kit from Steve Parkers Land Rovers, UK. By now, it is not possible to hold the tension jn the singld V-belt for than 6 weeks. I am a little bit fed up with crawling under the truck to give it another go for the next 6 weeks. Regards Heinz
Thank you Sir! I guess if you find a double pulley that has the same inside diameter of the original pulley on the alternator. It should work but you’ll also need a double pulley on the crank, too. I haven’t seen any for the Delco. Can you buy a smaller belt for your alternator? Belts come in many sizes. Check out V Belt Guys website. They have all the sizes listed.
@@conrad1468 Hi Cory, thanks for quick response. I went for the smallest size, which is in my case 1025 mm. Regards Heinz, Germany
@@HeinerStorchennest1 I just had to replace the belt on 1979 VW Rabbit (Golf) with a smaller belt because the correct belt was too big and slipping. Just like your belt. Funny, how we all deal with same issues all around the world. 😀
What about your dash amp meter???
Thank you for watching. I bypassed the dash amp meter. The ALT puts out too much amps to use the original gauge. I may have to research how to hook it up and make future video about it. Thank you!
@@conrad1468 Thanks! Yes, I am in the same boat, going to bypass it too for now. I think I am going to add a small voltmeter someplace. Maybe even more useful than amp meter. I can see charging voltage and the charge of the battery. Nice video, I'm sure it helped many people.
@@daviderickennedy2194 volt meter is a good idea. Hope this video motivates others to fix their own Land Rover.
If it's charging at 16 volts you've either destroyed your voltage regulator, or whatever meter you measured it on is bad, or you were sold a defective alternator. If the meter is correct the battery will eventually explode. Maybe In your face if you're looking at it at the time, or, as you're going down the road. In any case I'd buy a fire extinguisher, and a first aid kit and keep it on the front seat. If you used the existing wiring for anything, be sure you bypassed the generator's old style voltage regulator. Personally, I think it's wired incorrectly, or you meter is setup incorrectly. The bolt on the back of the alternator is not a ground connection, It's there to bolt on a spacer that comes with GM engine setups. You shouldn't have to ground it as the mechanical bolt connection provides ground, although you can ground it with a heavy cable directly to the battery if you want, also I'd run the positive power feed directly to the battery Pos. terminal. The jumper from the pos. terminal will work like that but it's really to sense the power to tell it when to turn on the coils, The farther away from the alternator is best as to truly sense the voltage drop which switches the coils. As the alternator field coils draw about 3 amps it's best to wire it correctly for proper switching.