Replacing an Automatic Air Vent on a Hot Water Heating System
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2020
- So I turn the heat off for the season. A couple days went by and there was water on the floor. Not much but enough to find out where it was coming from. I determined it was the Automatic Air Vent. I attempted to take it apart and repair it but it had other plans. So I went to The Home Depot and they had a direct replacement. I relived the pressure to the boiler and replaced the entire unit and it works great.
If you would like to see the inside of the Vent click the link: • The Inside of an Autom... 
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Thanks for a clear video. It helped me think about my problem. I've got a Burnham ES2 gas furnace (2009) as well, with an indirect water heater from Weil-McLain . But my leaking Taco air vent is screwed into the top of the hot water heater, not on the line next to the furnace like yours.
After looking at the Weil-McLain manual which the previous owner left on top of the boiler, I found out the homeowner is supposed to release the valve on the air vent monthly to keep it from building up sediment that causes the valve seat to become crusted and unable to close all the way. They tell you to just unscrew the thumb screw on the top, look down and you will see the top of a spring valve. Put a towel around the air vent, press down on the top of the valve with an awl or something, and hot water will come out. That keeps the valve seat clean. After you're done, you replace the thumb screw and open it about one-half to a full turn. But who knew?
I tried it a few times, yesterday. But no luck, it kept leaking. The valve seat is obviously crusted up now after 14 years of neglect. I'm getting a replacement air vent from Amazon tomorrow (Taco 400-4 like yours, $17.57) . But I'm not exactly sure how to lower the pressure in the hot water tank. Lowering the pressure in the furnace like you did won't help, because I've still got domestic cold water coming in. My plan is to (1) shut off the hot water feed from the furnace (that's the same as draining it like you did), (2) shut off the cold water inlet to the hot water tank, and (3) open a faucet upstairs and shut off the the hot water outlet from the tank.
Will that get all the pressure out? Not sure. I can easily test if there's pressure in the tank by just loosening that little thumb screw on top of the air vent. If it spurts water, I've got to keep trying. Wish me luck, so another homeowner can claim victory.
I am having the same problem as you- were you able to fix it?
@@aubreyellis3685 Yes, replacing the Taco 400-4 did the trick. The built in valve was too corroded to repair, and it only cost $17.57 from Amazon. You'll need a large adjustable wrench or pliers to grab the old one and screw it out. First reduce pressure in the water tank as I explained above.
I liked the ending of that, "another win for the homeowner".
Yes.
I like this video. I had my oil company come in to fix another issue. However I saw that he air vent is covered in scale and I asked the repairman what it would cost for him to replace it. He quoted $175 parts and labor.. So if one can replace it by DYI, there is a major cost savings.
Yes and TY.
The thief I had out to do a cleaning quoted an additional $243.00!! I told him to take a hike!!
Damn just bought one on Amazon for @$40 and it took me a total of 5 minutes to shut off water main, turn off boiler and relieve pressure on boiler then screw off old one then new one. That’s an easy nearly $150 for them.
I had the same exact problem. Your video was so helpful. Thanks so much.
You're welcome.
Thanks! Super helpful.
Your welcome.
Looks easy and low cost for a good do it yourselfer. But you can see why a tech has to charge $150 more or less to install a $20’part. Look at all the time it took to buy the part, install it… and then get a replacement part and reinstall it when the first one leaked.
Now for my try. Wish me luck!
Good Luck
Gotta remember that technician is paid by the hour. It's not 150$ for no reason. He could be on a 15,000$ install job instead he's helping you. Keep that in mind next time!
I just replaced mine and spent no more than 5 minutes doing it, several weeks later still working like a champ and bought mine on Amazon shipped to my house. Sorry but no one should be charged more than 1/2 hour of labor for this iob, don’t give me this crap about time spent getting materials a good plumber should have these on these on his truck and or not charging you to go get it…its petty if they do. Sadly most do as this is the contractors mentality and we allow it!
On the top. How tight should the little plastic cap be?
I keep mine loose.
Its whole purpose is to let air out of the system, so it should be open. This is called a float or ball-type automatic air relief valve.
Should you let the valve open all the time? Because my plumber told me to keep the valve shut
That's a good question. I guess I never really looked into it.
I have to do the same thing to my boiler. Easy peesy.
Yes
@@xjoe81x Safety RULES.
Expansion tank?
What about it?
Why not replace it since the first time
Didn't know of it was able to be fixed.
For a lousy $17.... just replace it and move on ;)
Yeah well if something can be fixed for free then as a homeowner I will try that first before spending my money. If It's just a lousy $17 bucks then you and me the money.
@@xjoe81x I like free too =)
Just let it piss
Sure...
$20 retail
Yep
jesus... the absolute worst place for the zone control. who installed that? potentially exposed to heat and water. i'd move it if you can. those thing aren't cheap.
I've only seen them on the sides of the boilers. It's NY, do it quick, do it easy, get paid...
@@xjoe81x mine's on the wall away from the boiler and any components that might leak. seems dangerous to put electrical under something you KNOW will leak in a few years.
@@mmm-mmm of course.
Come on you could of showed us the cleaning now I can’t live with out knowing what it looks like inside!!
There is one, it's coming.