This is a great video. Should the vent cap be tight or a little loose? I also have an issue with my Weil-McClain cga that no service shop can resolve: When my boiler finishes heating the water the temperature will coninue to climb (up to 220 degrees) if I don't have a circulating pump running. Have you seen this? Thanks
Sounds like the water side of the boiler is covered with scale (calcium carbonate &/or magnesium carbonate) this slows the heat transfer so when the pump stops the hotter metal keeps transfering heat to the water. As pump is off it keeps getting hotter. Citric acid based descaler can be added & left to circlate for a few days to clean the boiler & baseboard/radiator heaters. Colour changing descaler lets you know if you need to add more or that it's finished. It doesn't emit gas so won't need venting. When you are done flush the system a few times & add inhibitor with the last refil. It should make the whole system more efficient as more of the heat can reach the pumped water. 🙂
I have an old system from 1950 Venturi T's one zone anytime I do anything open up the boiler I have to bleed all the old fashioned radiators they are the ones that go under the window just copper with fins on it from the 1950s😊
Hi, I wonder why when the old vent was taken out, there was no water coming out. Don't you have to drain it below that level in order for water to not come out? Or somehow the water stays in after you shut the supply ball valves and relieved pressure to zero? Thanks
A coworker replaced the expansion tank earlier that day. He should of changed the vent also. There was blue crust on it. Indication it leaks sometimes. Yet once the pressure was dropped the foot in the air vent drops. Allowing crude to prevent the float from sealing again. I replace a vent every time I open a boiler. They usually leak if I don’t replace
@@thehvachacker yeah, pretty much if pressure needs removed, replace all vents, relief valves and expansion tanks (or check charge). if not there will be guaranteed callbacks. ** boiler drain valves while at it, leaks galore :)
Most lazy techs will crank down that cap on top. Yet air in the system makes gurgling sounds when the heat is on. If enough air builds the boiler gets air locked. Water won’t move through the air. The pump doesn’t create enough force to push or pull an air pocket. Make up water can introduce air. Now on a system with glycol, make up water is valves off no PRV. Air vents also closed. Have to keep proper mixture glycol and water.
@@thehvachacker Thanks for the explanation. If you eliminate the PRV valve in a closed glycol system what protects the system from a disaster like if for some reason the burner Didnt shutoff?
You opened the drain valve, and water came out. What does that mean? The air equal to the volume of the displaced water was now in the piping system. You took off the old air vent valve, and no water came out because now that part of the piping had the air. At the end you didn't purge the air out of the piping. So this video is like many others a fake. Not real plumbing job.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Perfect channel name for this guy.
So I have two air vents and looking to replace them cause leaking. one if 150 psi 240 and the other is 35psi type 67. Is this normal?
how old is that hydrotherm boiler??? they still make them???
Once you open up the system you get air into the lines don't you have to bleed the whole system oh you think that air valve will do it?😊
Do you tighten the cap on that valve, leave it loose, or leave it off ?
Leave it loose. If it’s closed air vent won’t let the air out
Another awesome job Hacker !
Volume?
Mines leaking and I just replaced it a yr ago exactly!
This is a great video. Should the vent cap be tight or a little loose? I also have an issue with my Weil-McClain cga that no service shop can resolve: When my boiler finishes heating the water the temperature will coninue to climb (up to 220 degrees) if I don't have a circulating pump running. Have you seen this? Thanks
I have the same question
Sounds like the water side of the boiler is covered with scale (calcium carbonate &/or magnesium carbonate) this slows the heat transfer so when the pump stops the hotter metal keeps transfering heat to the water. As pump is off it keeps getting hotter. Citric acid based descaler can be added & left to circlate for a few days to clean the boiler & baseboard/radiator heaters. Colour changing descaler lets you know if you need to add more or that it's finished. It doesn't emit gas so won't need venting. When you are done flush the system a few times & add inhibitor with the last refil. It should make the whole system more efficient as more of the heat can reach the pumped water. 🙂
Thank you sir. I’ll try it and let you know.
I have an old system from 1950 Venturi T's one zone anytime I do anything open up the boiler I have to bleed all the old fashioned radiators they are the ones that go under the window just copper with fins on it from the 1950s😊
Hi, I wonder why when the old vent was taken out, there was no water coming out. Don't you have to drain it below that level in order for water to not come out? Or somehow the water stays in after you shut the supply ball valves and relieved pressure to zero? Thanks
His finger was wet at the very beginning and when you remove the pressure from the boiler the water is bellow the vent.
A coworker replaced the expansion tank earlier that day. He should of changed the vent also. There was blue crust on it. Indication it leaks sometimes. Yet once the pressure was dropped the foot in the air vent drops. Allowing crude to prevent the float from sealing again. I replace a vent every time I open a boiler. They usually leak if I don’t replace
@@thehvachacker yeah, pretty much if pressure needs removed, replace all vents, relief valves and expansion tanks (or check charge). if not there will be guaranteed callbacks.
** boiler drain valves while at it, leaks galore :)
Great video buddy.
🤮
Would this leaky vent cause the boiler pressure to drop over time if it was not fixed?
It could if the PRV failed or supply was shut.
Why didn't you use Teflon tape?
Didn’t want to. Teflon, pipe dope, it don’t matter these threads don’t leak ever. It’s the float inside that gets gunked up and won’t make a seal.
@@thehvachacker I've seen other videos so That's why I asked
@@chrislauterbach8856Teflon alone can seal a water pipe. Dope alone also. Doing both is just better protection. I usually only dope the vent.
@@thehvachacker thanks
What would happen if you put a plug in that tee and eliminated the vent? Great video
Most lazy techs will crank down that cap on top. Yet air in the system makes gurgling sounds when the heat is on. If enough air builds the boiler gets air locked. Water won’t move through the air. The pump doesn’t create enough force to push or pull an air pocket. Make up water can introduce air. Now on a system with glycol, make up water is valves off no PRV. Air vents also closed. Have to keep proper mixture glycol and water.
@@thehvachacker Thanks for the explanation. If you eliminate the PRV valve in a closed glycol system what protects the system from a disaster like if for some reason the burner Didnt shutoff?
about 6 years is a good life ? guess i have high expectations
You opened the drain valve, and water came out. What does that mean? The air equal to the volume of the displaced water was now in the piping system. You took off the old air vent valve, and no water came out because now that part of the piping had the air. At the end you didn't purge the air out of the piping. So this video is like many others a fake. Not real plumbing job.
The air leaves through the bottle vent he just installed. That's the same place it came in through when he drained.
👍
Neat job !
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🍇🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
Neat? Maybe you need new glasses?
@@whatnow5313would you have him rebuild the whole set!😂😂😂