I got drilled into a cave surfing Yokahamas on the West side of Oahu- The heaviest nastiest wave in the summer. I remember hitting the bottom hard then tried to press off the bottom to come up for a breath of air. I then hit my head hard on the top of a small cave. I looked around and saw I was in a cave. I then found my way out and up to the surface for desperately needed air. Just like you I NEVER want to go through that experience again- Aloha Ba!
Im really enjoying this series of wipeout stories. I wish I had the physical gifts to be able to surf these waves. I life vicariously through guys like you.
That wave at 2:44 is ridiculous ! 🤩🔥 i was once in a similar situation in Sumatra where my leash got wrapped around a coral head at the bottom of a crevice in the reef . The surge of the waves through what was essentially an underwater canyon slammed me around like crazy , so powerful I couldn’t reach my ankle . Was super scary ! And that was on a much smaller wave than this 😳 anyway . This is a great series ! 👏🏽 🚀
Born and raised in Hawaii, growing up in our beach house right at Ehukai Beach/Pipeline in the country, I have seen and been through crazy stuff surfing Pipeline. Born in 1960, I started surfing at 5 years old. By age 13/1973, I was surfing Pipeline, and through the mid 70's to early 80's, I'm blessed to have grown up and lived in the country (what locals used to call the North Shore of Oahu!) surfing it all the best days each winter!! I've been through the whole gamut from insane tube rides to crazy wipouts over a lifetime surfing in the Hawaiian islands especially Pipeline! In the early 70's or so, after always surfing where if you ate it, you swam in!! Before surf leashes. Then the first leashes came out, and before urethane, they were super dangerous bungie cords and then rubber tubing, stretched and relaxed so you had coiled up rope inside. They were really dangerous for stretching and then the board popping up and out and flying back at your head ⁶or face!!! Occasionally hitting you in the face!!! But the rubber hollow tubing with the coiled nylon string inside were really bad. Once the rubber streached out the coiled nylon inside would uncoil till it was a stra😮it rope and then you might as well just have a pice of rope attached to your ankle!! So you would get dragged, sometimes a long way underwater with your board being held right in the breaking wave and with your eyes open you could see your board and just get dragged!!! Some times with the turbulence you would get pulled down deeper and then suddenly your dragged by that rope right into an over hang ledge, crevice or hole/cave!!!! It's really bad you get scraped up and banged up and then you have to not panic, and wait till you can get out and then if still attached you grap the leash and pull hand over hand like a life line to the surface!!! It still can happen with the new urethane stretching leashes, but they can snap or you can pull your leg back and forth being dragged and hopefully get your hands on it to pop the board out, or before the quick release pins you had to rip open the velcro to release the board to😮😮 stop being dragged! Pretty sure you've been dragged 100+ feet or much more before you pop up !!!! Just back in the early Era of surfboard leashes those ones were super dangerous!!!!..yeah man after 30 years of surfing Pipeline I have been through it all, including almost drowning from getting stuck in the impact zone at Backdoor in particular where it can hold you right there and you don't get washed in, but take one huge wave after another on the head getting held underwater pinned to the bottom!!! I've saved so many people from drowning along the 7 mile miracle, especially at Waimea/ Waimea shorebreak usually after 5pm in the 70's after the lifeguards leave, and just before dark around or after sunset when tourists or military guys from Schofield barracks get drunk and get too close to the shoreline or stupidity try to rinse off all the sand on them and end up taken by the undertow and then ounded till they drown or taken out to sea in the rip current!! Waimea shorebreak is the worst, especially when it's 15-20 foot "Hawaiian" and you can get sucked out to sea!!! From ke iki to sunset when it's XXL size, we get a big surge of water about 2-3 feet high every 20 minutes or so that suddenly washes up the beach up high, and knocks people down then drags them back into the water and into the pounding shore break or lineup drowning them!!!! These days, ever since our world famous lifeguards on the North and West shores started using sit down wave runner style jet ski's to rescue surfers and unlucky visitors and people who can't swim in those conditions, it has revolutionized life saving in big surf. My friend Brian Keaulana, a famous Makaha lifeguard and Hawaiian waterman, along with others were the ones who developed using the ski's to quickly get to and rescue people, and it spread all over the world , saving lives!!° I saw my first surfer die surfing Pipeline at age 5 on the beach at Pipeline while our neighbor, a Dr, ran out of his beach house with his "black bag" and put a huge adrenaline shot with the big long needle into the guys heart but tragically he died 4 feet away from me!!!! I've lost 5 friends who died surfing Pipeline, one in my arms in the water, frantically trying to swim him on top of his board applying cpr etc!!! I've watched many others die over a lifetime living and surfing there!! Pipeline is the most dangerous surf break in the world!!! But , we surf it because of the experience of surfing it when it's at its best and tube riding there is just such a rush!! I have been surfing and fishing and scuba and freedive spearfishing all my life in Hawaii!!! I got in incredible shape and became an expert surfer and swimmer in huge Hawaiian surf. I also played water polo, up to being and Olympic player!! Surfers who grow up surfing the North shore all their life can become extremely good swimming in the undertow and rip currents and impact zone!!! Today Surfers have taken surfing to such incredible heights it amazes me!! Just sad it's so crowded now!!! I'm truly blessed and grateful I grew up living in the country and having it so uncrowded with a handful of my friends. We just had it all to ourselves!!!! Aloha D.L.
@@iprey4surf if you're born and raised in Hawaii, and I was born and raised in the country in 1960 . I grew up surfing and scuba and freedive spearfishing and deep sea fishing in Hawaii. Because I grew up with all the locals and excelled @ those things to such a high level, the local Hawaiians really respect that!! My older brother and I were surfing v-land, in1971 -on, and at 11- about 13, I was pretty much always the youngest guy out!! I don't have Hawaiian blood, wish I did because I respect and love Hawaiian culture etc more than anything. The local guys in particular two guys that rode yellow pintail single fins were always the 2 best guys at v-land!!! Da Bulls!!! It was nothing even close to what it got like years later to now!! It was uncrowded and laid back, just the #1 most important rule, especially if your Haole was you have to surf extremely well, age considered of course. No beginners and no kooks nothing!!!! Period! they were rules, more than localism!!! As my surfing progressed over the years, I was pretty much in with the best guys and growing up over the years surfing with the same people as good as most. It was tube riding I excelled in!!! For the older guys, we called it getting "locked in"!!! Lol old school!!! I still remember the first time @ around 7 years old on a big tanker (long board) lol, another old name!!! Before any progressive shaped shorter boards!!! Well, I lived on Kauai and was surfing there sine 1973 on my vacation breaks from high school on Oahu. Enough said about there, suffice to say used to be the best kept secret long ago and I'm truly blessed I had it back.in the good old days. Localism? Heavy mokes surfing,? Don't even get me started! Just sad for people now with the crowds! I lived on the Big island and made my dream come true having a custom built fishing boat made and then commercial fishing for 45 years!! Sure, I remember the whole Hui and Black shorts thing, but I knew lots of the heaviest guys and best Pipe surfers! We grew up together and being born and raised is a really important thing!! In the 80's sure v-land had heavy localism! Into the 90's of course but I knew Perry Dane back when he was regulating everywhere especially V-land!!! He'd yell and just tell guys to go in and beat it or it was cracks!!(lol) he loved deep sea fishing and since I was doing it off the big island full time from way back , and he heard about how heavy it is over there, and knew I was doing it he just totally wanted to hear about it etc! You're right, back then, surf v-land at the Crack and enjoy It till all the Boyz came out, then just go in if you don't know them. Yeah,, one thing is how each new generation of athletes just gets better and better at their sport, surfing being no exception. Just mind blowing how guys surf today! Just very grateful I grew up back then surfing country and living out there, cane fields everywhere and no crowds!! Aloha
Yes I got pushed down into a crevasse on a reef break in WA.it wasn’t that big but I could feel a ledge pressing against the front of my upper thighs, I tried to push off the bottom but my leg rope was snagged on something, so I didn’t go anywhere. I panicked so much that I kicked so hard with my leg rope leg, and snapped the leg rope and then surfaced. That was the strength the panic gave me.I came in totally traumatised and it wasn’t even that big!
love how people think being a local means somthing. imagine if i kicked you out of a dog park because my family grew up next door........... its pitiful.
I don't know if you believe in God and if you are a Christian or not, but there are such things as guardian angels, you better get on your knees.Thank God and thank that angel😊🙏 Gods Promise I love you You are my child I will always be with you You never have to fear Believe it!
That moment being shoved into the cave must of been terrifying. Good job following your leash.
Most of us would have completely lost our mind.
I got drilled into a cave surfing Yokahamas on the West side of Oahu- The heaviest nastiest wave in the summer. I remember hitting the bottom hard then tried to press off the bottom to come up for a breath of air. I then hit my head hard on the top of a small cave. I looked around and saw I was in a cave. I then found my way out and up to the surface for desperately needed air. Just like you I NEVER want to go through that experience again- Aloha Ba!
My cousin broke his back there, Yokes gets heavy
Matt stories are awesome. Shot out to the family,show and to one of the Ultimate performers in the ocean out out there. Big big fan keep um coming 🤙🤙
Thank you so much for your kind words !🙏🙏
Dang…I panicked just hearing this story mate.
been ther, done that- Never want to do it again
lol
This is super gnarly. A place you never wanna be
Wipeout King. Scary moment man, glad it worked out okay. Thanks for sharing these.
Haha don’t want to be known as the wipeout king. But all part of the game haha
That barrel you make at 2:46 at Pipe is almost as insane as the wipeout story!
I know! That was incredible and there’s a lot of waves filmed - it was epic
Im really enjoying this series of wipeout stories.
I wish I had the physical gifts to be able to surf these waves. I life vicariously through guys like you.
Thank you !
That wave at 2:44 is ridiculous ! 🤩🔥 i was once in a similar situation in Sumatra where my leash got wrapped around a coral head at the bottom of a crevice in the reef . The surge of the waves through what was essentially an underwater canyon slammed me around like crazy , so powerful I couldn’t reach my ankle . Was super scary ! And that was on a much smaller wave than this 😳 anyway . This is a great series ! 👏🏽 🚀
Born and raised in Hawaii, growing up in our beach house right at Ehukai Beach/Pipeline in the country, I have seen and been through crazy stuff surfing Pipeline. Born in 1960, I started surfing at 5 years old. By age 13/1973, I was surfing Pipeline, and through the mid 70's to early 80's, I'm blessed to have grown up and lived in the country (what locals used to call the North Shore of Oahu!) surfing it all the best days each winter!! I've been through the whole gamut from insane tube rides to crazy wipouts over a lifetime surfing in the Hawaiian islands especially Pipeline! In the early 70's or so, after always surfing where if you ate it, you swam in!! Before surf leashes. Then the first leashes came out, and before urethane, they were super dangerous bungie cords and then rubber tubing, stretched and relaxed so you had coiled up rope inside. They were really dangerous for stretching and then the board popping up and out and flying back at your head ⁶or face!!! Occasionally hitting you in the face!!! But the rubber hollow tubing with the coiled nylon string inside were really bad. Once the rubber streached out the coiled nylon inside would uncoil till it was a stra😮it rope and then you might as well just have a pice of rope attached to your ankle!! So you would get dragged, sometimes a long way underwater with your board being held right in the breaking wave and with your eyes open you could see your board and just get dragged!!! Some times with the turbulence you would get pulled down deeper and then suddenly your dragged by that rope right into an over hang ledge, crevice or hole/cave!!!! It's really bad you get scraped up and banged up and then you have to not panic, and wait till you can get out and then if still attached you grap the leash and pull hand over hand like a life line to the surface!!! It still can happen with the new urethane stretching leashes, but they can snap or you can pull your leg back and forth being dragged and hopefully get your hands on it to pop the board out, or before the quick release pins you had to rip open the velcro to release the board to😮😮 stop being dragged! Pretty sure you've been dragged 100+ feet or much more before you pop up !!!! Just back in the early Era of surfboard leashes those ones were super dangerous!!!!..yeah man after 30 years of surfing Pipeline I have been through it all, including almost drowning from getting stuck in the impact zone at Backdoor in particular where it can hold you right there and you don't get washed in, but take one huge wave after another on the head getting held underwater pinned to the bottom!!! I've saved so many people from drowning along the 7 mile miracle, especially at Waimea/ Waimea shorebreak usually after 5pm in the 70's after the lifeguards leave, and just before dark around or after sunset when tourists or military guys from Schofield barracks get drunk and get too close to the shoreline or stupidity try to rinse off all the sand on them and end up taken by the undertow and then ounded till they drown or taken out to sea in the rip current!! Waimea shorebreak is the worst, especially when it's 15-20 foot "Hawaiian" and you can get sucked out to sea!!! From ke iki to sunset when it's XXL size, we get a big surge of water about 2-3 feet high every 20 minutes or so that suddenly washes up the beach up high, and knocks people down then drags them back into the water and into the pounding shore break or lineup drowning them!!!! These days, ever since our world famous lifeguards on the North and West shores started using sit down wave runner style jet ski's to rescue surfers and unlucky visitors and people who can't swim in those conditions, it has revolutionized life saving in big surf. My friend Brian Keaulana, a famous Makaha lifeguard and Hawaiian waterman, along with others were the ones who developed using the ski's to quickly get to and rescue people, and it spread all over the world , saving lives!!° I saw my first surfer die surfing Pipeline at age 5 on the beach at Pipeline while our neighbor, a Dr, ran out of his beach house with his "black bag" and put a huge adrenaline shot with the big long needle into the guys heart but tragically he died 4 feet away from me!!!! I've lost 5 friends who died surfing Pipeline, one in my arms in the water, frantically trying to swim him on top of his board applying cpr etc!!! I've watched many others die over a lifetime living and surfing there!! Pipeline is the most dangerous surf break in the world!!! But , we surf it because of the experience of surfing it when it's at its best and tube riding there is just such a rush!! I have been surfing and fishing and scuba and freedive spearfishing all my life in Hawaii!!! I got in incredible shape and became an expert surfer and swimmer in huge Hawaiian surf. I also played water polo, up to being and Olympic player!! Surfers who grow up surfing the North shore all their life can become extremely good swimming in the undertow and rip currents and impact zone!!! Today Surfers have taken surfing to such incredible heights it amazes me!! Just sad it's so crowded now!!! I'm truly blessed and grateful I grew up living in the country and having it so uncrowded with a handful of my friends. We just had it all to ourselves!!!!
Aloha
D.L.
Try surfing V-land in the 80-90's as a ha'ole. That's sum crazy shit, I tell you. All the sharks n reef, ripcurrents n cleanup sets are nothing
@@iprey4surf if you're born and raised in Hawaii, and I was born and raised in the country in 1960 . I grew up surfing and scuba and freedive spearfishing and deep sea fishing in Hawaii. Because I grew up with all the locals and excelled @ those things to such a high level, the local Hawaiians really respect that!! My older brother and I were surfing v-land, in1971 -on, and at 11- about 13, I was pretty much always the youngest guy out!! I don't have Hawaiian blood, wish I did because I respect and love Hawaiian culture etc more than anything. The local guys in particular two guys that rode yellow pintail single fins were always the 2 best guys at v-land!!! Da Bulls!!! It was nothing even close to what it got like years later to now!! It was uncrowded and laid back, just the #1 most important rule, especially if your Haole was you have to surf extremely well, age considered of course. No beginners and no kooks nothing!!!! Period! they were rules, more than localism!!! As my surfing progressed over the years, I was pretty much in with the best guys and growing up over the years surfing with the same people as good as most. It was tube riding I excelled in!!! For the older guys, we called it getting "locked in"!!! Lol old school!!! I still remember the first time @ around 7 years old on a big tanker (long board) lol, another old name!!! Before any progressive shaped shorter boards!!!
Well, I lived on Kauai and was surfing there sine 1973 on my vacation breaks from high school on Oahu. Enough said about there, suffice to say used to be the best kept secret long ago and I'm truly blessed I had it back.in the good old days. Localism? Heavy mokes surfing,? Don't even get me started! Just sad for people now with the crowds!
I lived on the Big island and made my dream come true having a custom built fishing boat made and then commercial fishing for 45 years!! Sure, I remember the whole Hui and Black shorts thing, but I knew lots of the heaviest guys and best Pipe surfers! We grew up together and being born and raised is a really important thing!!
In the 80's sure v-land had heavy localism! Into the 90's of course but I knew Perry Dane back when he was regulating everywhere especially V-land!!! He'd yell and just tell guys to go in and beat it or it was cracks!!(lol) he loved deep sea fishing and since I was doing it off the big island full time from way back , and he heard about how heavy it is over there, and knew I was doing it he just totally wanted to hear about it etc! You're right, back then, surf v-land at the Crack and enjoy It till all the Boyz came out, then just go in if you don't know them. Yeah,, one thing is how each new generation of athletes just gets better and better at their sport, surfing being no exception. Just mind blowing how guys surf today! Just very grateful I grew up back then surfing country and living out there, cane fields everywhere and no crowds!!
Aloha
Thanks for sharing !! Crazy stuff ! Pipeline is to be respected
That’s the stuff of nightmares
Gnarly! Glad you flowed with the leash
Bruuu this content is gold. Love it. Thanks for sharing
Loving the series
Caves, pipe, no bueno🙌 epic🔥
Like this series a lot! Keep it up.🤙
Gezzuz bru, you can take some knocks!
Your ear stories are gnarlier than most I'd say.
Especially the the head spear.
Glad you're all well!
that's one of the many ways to die there, Pipe is just as nasty as nasty can be. glad you somehow handled
This happened to me at pipeline in 1996
Yes I got pushed down into a crevasse on a reef break in WA.it wasn’t that big but I could feel a ledge pressing against the front of my upper thighs, I tried to push off the bottom but my leg rope was snagged on something, so I didn’t go anywhere. I panicked so much that I kicked so hard with my leg rope leg, and snapped the leg rope and then surfaced. That was the strength the panic gave me.I came in totally traumatised and it wasn’t even that big!
Heavy bro!
Matt you are mental bro !
hectic!
Thanks brother !
👏
come Lanzarote Bru! el quemao 🤯
Massive
very glad your ok yikes
You're poor parents having to worry about you!
Says there is footage, not really
love how people think being a local means somthing. imagine if i kicked you out of a dog park because my family grew up next door........... its pitiful.
Yeah it’s funny. Born n raised in SD but now live 4 miles from there beach. Have had ‘insta locals’ talk shit like oh you don’t live here? Hilarious.
I don't know if you believe in God and if you are a Christian or not, but there are such things as guardian angels, you better get on your knees.Thank God and thank that angel😊🙏
Gods Promise
I love you
You are my child
I will always be with you
You never have to fear
Believe it!