Cabinets: www.lowes.com/pd/Diamond-NOW-Arcadia-24-in-W-x-30-in-H-x-12-in-D-TrueColor-White-Door-Wall-Cabinet/1000092155 Wood Rod: www.lowes.com/pd/Madison-Mill-Round-Wood-Poplar-Dowel-Actual-48-in-L-x-1-375-in-dia/3820977 Rod Sockets: amzn.to/2QZZq6N (affiliate*) Cabinet Screws: amzn.to/2Uw3lKy (affiliate*) Magnetic Stud Finder: amzn.to/343P0bI (affiliate*) Mikwaukee Drill & Driver: amzn.to/2UNNUMZ (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support
There should be a stud every 16 inches, on center. However, some newer construction allows for stud spacing every 24". If you can't find a stud, you could use heavy duty anchors to support the cabinets.
Thank you very much for this video. The screws at the top and bottom of the cabinets is a great idea. You made this look very easy. I'll be sharing this with my dad before he helps me lol thanks again.
It really is that easy! :) Those were the first cabinets I've ever hung in my life and I haven't had a single problem. Sure, if you're going to install all new cabinets in your kitchen, it'd be more difficult. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, that's very nice of you to say. If you had a helper, one person to hold the cabinet and one person to drive the screws, it'd be a piece of cake. :)
Don’t hang cabinets expecting particle board to be sufficient. Cut a strip of wood and place it at the top of the cabinet just under the top,panel on the inside. Glue or brad nail this to the cabinet and use this cleat to drill and support the cabinet. The particle board will rip through if you put any kind of weight on the cabinet.
Yep, all on 1 stud secured with 3 pan head screws. We keep a large box of detergent, a gallon of bleach, and a large jug of fabric softener in the one cabinet and it's rock solid.
I didn't use a level because my walls are square and I was only installing 2 cabinets in the corners with a large gap in between. So, even if they aren't perfectly level, you wouldn't be able to tell by looking at them. If you live in an older house where the walls aren't square anymore, or you're hanging a row of cabinets, then you would need a level. If you hung the cabinet level and then there was a gap against the wall, at the top or the bottom, you'd just cut a piece of trim, the same color as the cabinets, to fill the gap.
No issues being able to fully open doors with knobs? That company seems to recommend using filler if you're mounting directly against a wall. (Also, I wish they started selling those with soft close hinges... Why make things with these crappy hard-close hinges? lol. I know you can prob swap them out, but I'd worry about messing with the particle board too much.)
In my specific situation, the knobs don't touch anything when the doors are fully open. On the left side, the knob goes past the trim for the door frame and, on the right, it goes past the trim for the window frame. I agree, who wouldn't want soft-close hinges and the cost difference would hardly be noticeable. Thanks for watching!
Unless one of those long ass screws punches a hole in the plumbing or electrical. You should measure the thickness of the back wall of the cabinet, lets say half in. add a half in for the drywall, and your only at an inch. So a 2 in screw is ample.
In my case, I wasn't worried because I know that the water lines for the washer come up from the crawlspace. I also had pictures of this wall prior to it being drywalled so I knew where everything was. Plus, the electronic stud finder I used can also detect wires. If you're able to successfully find the center of the studs, you should be fine.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Cabinets:
www.lowes.com/pd/Diamond-NOW-Arcadia-24-in-W-x-30-in-H-x-12-in-D-TrueColor-White-Door-Wall-Cabinet/1000092155
Wood Rod:
www.lowes.com/pd/Madison-Mill-Round-Wood-Poplar-Dowel-Actual-48-in-L-x-1-375-in-dia/3820977
Rod Sockets:
amzn.to/2QZZq6N (affiliate*)
Cabinet Screws:
amzn.to/2Uw3lKy (affiliate*)
Magnetic Stud Finder:
amzn.to/343P0bI (affiliate*)
Mikwaukee Drill & Driver:
amzn.to/2UNNUMZ (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support
Boom! Great video, used it yesterday to help hang my laundry room cabinets.. They turned out perfect and the wife was happy.
Nice! I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this amazing and easy method 😊
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for watching! :)
Lucky you finding studs. My studs seem to sit more in the middle of the wall. No where near where the cabinets go in the corner. SUX
There should be a stud every 16 inches, on center. However, some newer construction allows for stud spacing every 24". If you can't find a stud, you could use heavy duty anchors to support the cabinets.
@@Mikeattempts they are 24". I got stud supporting 115lbs. Still sucks
Thank you very much for this video. The screws at the top and bottom of the cabinets is a great idea. You made this look very easy. I'll be sharing this with my dad before he helps me lol thanks again.
No problem, I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
He makes it look so easy
It really is that easy! :) Those were the first cabinets I've ever hung in my life and I haven't had a single problem. Sure, if you're going to install all new cabinets in your kitchen, it'd be more difficult. Thanks for watching!
I have aluminum studs in my new house so have to anchor the cabinet with 1/2 drill bit. Your video helped with where to drill. Thank you.
I'm happy to hear the video helped, thanks for watching!
Thank you sir. For some reason I kept having trouble measuring the right distance and height for the rod sockets. Your video helped :)
Great, I'm glad to hear the video was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Very nice, easy, and practical.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I don't know why I didn't think about a screw right in the middle of the stud.
Thanks for watching!
you make this look so easy!!
Thanks, that's very nice of you to say. If you had a helper, one person to hold the cabinet and one person to drive the screws, it'd be a piece of cake. :)
Facts
Don’t hang cabinets expecting particle board to be sufficient. Cut a strip of wood and place it at the top of the cabinet just under the top,panel on the inside. Glue or brad nail this to the cabinet and use this cleat to drill and support the cabinet. The particle board will rip through if you put any kind of weight on the cabinet.
Thanks, that's a good tip! The cabinets have been up for over 5 years and luckily, we haven't had any issues.
That cabinet on 1 stud? How has that held up? I have wood paneling so can't use anchors. All I have is 1 stud and an 18" wide cabinet.
Yep, all on 1 stud secured with 3 pan head screws. We keep a large box of detergent, a gallon of bleach, and a large jug of fabric softener in the one cabinet and it's rock solid.
Thanks man. Beam horizontal is a great idea (bonks own head)
Thanks for watching!
Great work man. I am working on my laundry room and needed some ideas.
I appreciate it, thanks for watching!
Very helpful
I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching! :)
Do you need a level?
I didn't use a level because my walls are square and I was only installing 2 cabinets in the corners with a large gap in between. So, even if they aren't perfectly level, you wouldn't be able to tell by looking at them. If you live in an older house where the walls aren't square anymore, or you're hanging a row of cabinets, then you would need a level. If you hung the cabinet level and then there was a gap against the wall, at the top or the bottom, you'd just cut a piece of trim, the same color as the cabinets, to fill the gap.
No issues being able to fully open doors with knobs? That company seems to recommend using filler if you're mounting directly against a wall.
(Also, I wish they started selling those with soft close hinges... Why make things with these crappy hard-close hinges? lol. I know you can prob swap them out, but I'd worry about messing with the particle board too much.)
In my specific situation, the knobs don't touch anything when the doors are fully open. On the left side, the knob goes past the trim for the door frame and, on the right, it goes past the trim for the window frame. I agree, who wouldn't want soft-close hinges and the cost difference would hardly be noticeable. Thanks for watching!
My next project!
Thanks for watching!
What stud finder was the first one?
That was a Strait-Line AccuScan but that company doesn't seem to exist anymore. Here's one with similar features: amzn.to/3aY1iVw
What size are these cabinets ?
The cabinets I used are 24" wide, 30" high, and 12" deep. Thanks for watching!
It's so weird that 3 screws through particle board will hold the weight. Never too many screws
I agree, at first I was paranoid about hanging too much on the rod but my wife hangs everything on it and it hasn't budged. Thanks for watching!
Unless one of those long ass screws punches a hole in the plumbing or electrical. You should measure the thickness of the back wall of the cabinet, lets say half in. add a half in for the drywall, and your only at an inch. So a 2 in screw is ample.
Were you concerned about drilling into wires or water pipes when securing your cabinet into the wall?
In my case, I wasn't worried because I know that the water lines for the washer come up from the crawlspace. I also had pictures of this wall prior to it being drywalled so I knew where everything was. Plus, the electronic stud finder I used can also detect wires. If you're able to successfully find the center of the studs, you should be fine.
Simple video. I'll hang mine tonight.
Thanks for watching!