Another super helpful video thanks heaps mate! I'm in the middle of repairing an old hack board of my brothers and are repairing a similar amount of damage on a rail. From past experience have you found this way in the video more effective compared to creating a dam with masking tape and filling with PU foam? Thanks! If i'm ever up in Mangawhai I definitely owe you a few coldies for all the help you've given me.
Heya Jake! You could definitely dam off and fill with a 2 part expanding PU. I mainly used of cuts in this board because of the whiteness of it and I wanted the paint to look the same in the end. Keep in mind, just like shaping a surfboard, the outside of the foam is the strongest and the deeper you route or plane into the foam the weaker it becomes closer to the centre so you want to be careful not to over fill your dam too much so that you're not forced to remove too much excess and be left with the soft centre of your pour. You'll also likely be left with pin holes and airbubbles with your pour foam so you'll likely need to do a tight coat of micro balloons before laminating to fill those voids. Definitely possible though! 🤙
Were you initially thinking of going a different route with the repair? Seemed like you were thinking of going one way and changed your mind to switch to the larger foam graft.
That was the plan from the beginning but I was suspicious that the blank might have been effected closer in towards the stringer, so needed to make sure I removed enough but also really wanted to keep the repair in the confides of the colored rail band if possible
This one was easy as I actually shaped this board (see my video "shapes, stains and sprays") but in Normal case, molotow paints have a great colour book to work with which usually gets you pretty close. If not I'd have to make the colour up for the airbrush and that's just a case of patience
This is an Hypothetical question. Would you even attempt repair a board broken in two? And if so how would you approach it?. I did repair one but before seeing you and how you use foam, so I used the good old q cell resin mix and it does affect the weight noticeably. Just curious to know what you think given your experience. Thanks!
Yea for sure. It's not uncommon I repair snaps, depending mostly on the cleanliness of the break. The messiness of the snap dictates materials in a lot of cases and adding weight is certainly a possible side effect.
Hi im currently repairing a board at the moment and your video is a great help! Did you sand the rail close to the repair with a higher grit paper before classing? I've got a lot of areas that have been sanded with 80 grit making the color seem a bit more faded and I'm worried that this will be visible after glassing. Thanks
Gday James, welcome! All the sanding that I did was with 120, but 80 grit is fine too. Is the colour you're talking about looking faded in the original glass of the board? If so, that's normal. If you're ever in doubt of final result, wipe with a wet rag and that will pretty much show you your end product.
Love these videos and wait for these uploads. Ding repair is almost therapeutic. That said what grits do you prep sand before glassing and then for the hotcoat? I use only sanding resin for my smaller dings so I have to sand over the lamination.
All my prep work is done with 120 grit. I dont use anything else until the final sand and then I start with 240 and work my way up from there. If it's a particularly hard board to sand like some of the surf tech stuff, my first sand to prep might be with 80 grit but then I'll always go over that with 120 again before I fill or laminate. Cheers fir Watching man, appreciate it!
at around 11:36, when the filler/top(?) coat has set, is there a layer of wax that clogs up the sand paper (and is there a way you generally combat that?)... I ask because i experience this and clog / waste sandpaper. thanks for sharing such a benchmark to repair to!
Ola amigo! so there is a wax additive in my final layer of resin, turning the laminating resin into a sanding resin. The wax additive is mixed at a ratio of 2%, so if I mixed 100ml for one side of this repair, there is 2ml of additive. NO more than 2%. If you are adding too much wax to your resin, sanding can become nightmarish
@@smallkinedings cheers man! i'm at the mercy of the 500ml tin i bought at the surfshop! I tried a bit of acetone (which also ate through the nitrile gloves in a minute) and it seemed to remove a bit of the waxy finish, or spudge it around. Anyhoo thanks again for the vids, really appreciate them! (ps nice clean work space you got!)
@@dumpy4289 o yes, in future I highly recommend only buying laminating resin and some additive of your own and making up your own sanding resin as tou need it. Thanks man, I try keep ot tidy but it doesn't always work 😂
@@smallkinedings 😅 Mate, I try to retain my surf-consciousness as good as possible. But isn‘t it even better reaching the ocean after a long time and jump in the waves with a board you fixed by yourself?😉 I’m looking forward for new content!🤙
Great work bro, nothing like doing a job that you love, and it shows.🤙🏻
Cheers man, appreciate it!
Awesome instructional video! Thanks for your help on the board I'm currently working on!
Pleasure, hope it all goes well!!
The intro song is very similar to a Bauhaus song….
Another super helpful video thanks heaps mate!
I'm in the middle of repairing an old hack board of my brothers and are repairing a similar amount of damage on a rail. From past experience have you found this way in the video more effective compared to creating a dam with masking tape and filling with PU foam?
Thanks! If i'm ever up in Mangawhai I definitely owe you a few coldies for all the help you've given me.
Heya Jake!
You could definitely dam off and fill with a 2 part expanding PU. I mainly used of cuts in this board because of the whiteness of it and I wanted the paint to look the same in the end.
Keep in mind, just like shaping a surfboard, the outside of the foam is the strongest and the deeper you route or plane into the foam the weaker it becomes closer to the centre so you want to be careful not to over fill your dam too much so that you're not forced to remove too much excess and be left with the soft centre of your pour.
You'll also likely be left with pin holes and airbubbles with your pour foam so you'll likely need to do a tight coat of micro balloons before laminating to fill those voids.
Definitely possible though! 🤙
@@smallkinedings I'm with ya. Thanks again for ya help man. Have a awesome weekend!
Hi Legend,
Is the mix to stick the foam blocks in a qcell and resin mix?
Gday Mel! Yea just a poly/qcell mixture
Were you initially thinking of going a different route with the repair? Seemed like you were thinking of going one way and changed your mind to switch to the larger foam graft.
That was the plan from the beginning but I was suspicious that the blank might have been effected closer in towards the stringer, so needed to make sure I removed enough but also really wanted to keep the repair in the confides of the colored rail band if possible
what material did you use to glue the piece of styrofoam? great video
Poly resin mixed with some micro balloons to glue in the PU foam.
Mean mahi bro! Learning heaps from your channel.
Chur brother! Glad to hear it's all useful!
Splendid. How did you colour match the original?
This one was easy as I actually shaped this board (see my video "shapes, stains and sprays") but in Normal case, molotow paints have a great colour book to work with which usually gets you pretty close. If not I'd have to make the colour up for the airbrush and that's just a case of patience
Just curious what kind of foam did you use?
This was PU foam from an old snapped board
The beast
A Master at work. great video. thanks
My pleasure and many thanks 🤙
Another great repair. Hats off!
Cheers Andy!!
If i recall u just made this board not too long ago
Correct! Thought I'd try and do a floater in the shore break and put my knees through the rails. Anything for content 😂
This is an Hypothetical question. Would you even attempt repair a board broken in two? And if so how would you approach it?. I did repair one but before seeing you and how you use foam, so I used the good old q cell resin mix and it does affect the weight noticeably. Just curious to know what you think given your experience. Thanks!
Yea for sure. It's not uncommon I repair snaps, depending mostly on the cleanliness of the break. The messiness of the snap dictates materials in a lot of cases and adding weight is certainly a possible side effect.
Hi im currently repairing a board at the moment and your video is a great help! Did you sand the rail close to the repair with a higher grit paper before classing? I've got a lot of areas that have been sanded with 80 grit making the color seem a bit more faded and I'm worried that this will be visible after glassing. Thanks
Gday James, welcome! All the sanding that I did was with 120, but 80 grit is fine too. Is the colour you're talking about looking faded in the original glass of the board? If so, that's normal. If you're ever in doubt of final result, wipe with a wet rag and that will pretty much show you your end product.
Love these videos and wait for these uploads. Ding repair is almost therapeutic.
That said what grits do you prep sand before glassing and then for the hotcoat? I use only sanding resin for my smaller dings so I have to sand over the lamination.
All my prep work is done with 120 grit. I dont use anything else until the final sand and then I start with 240 and work my way up from there. If it's a particularly hard board to sand like some of the surf tech stuff, my first sand to prep might be with 80 grit but then I'll always go over that with 120 again before I fill or laminate. Cheers fir Watching man, appreciate it!
That was an A1 top notch repair by the book! The best I've seen so far. Bravo sir! 👏
Thanks Richard! I made it for the girlfriend so best keep it looking the good, especially since I dinged it!
at around 11:36, when the filler/top(?) coat has set, is there a layer of wax that clogs up the sand paper (and is there a way you generally combat that?)... I ask because i experience this and clog / waste sandpaper. thanks for sharing such a benchmark to repair to!
Ola amigo! so there is a wax additive in my final layer of resin, turning the laminating resin into a sanding resin. The wax additive is mixed at a ratio of 2%, so if I mixed 100ml for one side of this repair, there is 2ml of additive. NO more than 2%. If you are adding too much wax to your resin, sanding can become nightmarish
@@smallkinedings cheers man! i'm at the mercy of the 500ml tin i bought at the surfshop!
I tried a bit of acetone (which also ate through the nitrile gloves in a minute) and it seemed to remove a bit of the waxy finish, or spudge it around. Anyhoo thanks again for the vids, really appreciate them! (ps nice clean work space you got!)
@@dumpy4289 o yes, in future I highly recommend only buying laminating resin and some additive of your own and making up your own sanding resin as tou need it. Thanks man, I try keep ot tidy but it doesn't always work 😂
Amazing work. Great to see & learn. Greetings from switzerland, ricky
Greeting Switzerland 🇨🇭 love that place! Average surf though 😂
@@smallkinedings 😅 Mate, I try to retain my surf-consciousness as good as possible. But isn‘t it even better reaching the ocean after a long time and jump in the waves with a board you fixed by yourself?😉 I’m looking forward for new content!🤙
@@riccardogalli3580 things always feel better if you have to put a bit of effort in to reach and find it!
Ouch! Roof rack impact?
I decided attempting a floater in shore break was a good idea on this board which sent both of my knees through the rails 😂