You have no idea how helpful this video has been to me. This is the first time that I have chalk painted anything, and you guessed it-I’m doing my kitchen. On top of that, I have made my own paint. I have done a ton of hours researching , but I’ve only found bits and pieces of information that have been helpful. I have finally settled on a linen type finish. I have been going berserk trying to settle on a topcoat. Thanks for your amazing advice 🙏🤗‼️
I am so happy to hear that! You are quite welcome and good luck with your project! I personally love general finishes high performance top coat and Lilly moon stellar shield topcoat
Cracked me up. I live a ranch life and try so hard to get the real dirt look to not be there and you put it there for effect. I had to chuckle the little life differences. Thank you for the informative video and the non intended chuckle.
@@GeorgiasGarden you can paint melamine, but adhesion will be your big challenge. You will want to,use a tsp to clean, scuff and use a gripper/primer to help adhesion as well as seal.
Thank you for the update. I painted my cabinets last year with Annie Sloan and her wax. I did not distress or have an aged look. I found that the cabinet where I keep my trash can got the worst wear and after several touch ups realized that it is probably caused by all the acids in food items getting on hands then on the door handle area. So, I very tentatively took that door and sanded a bit - repainted and used gatorhide by Dixie Bell. It has a very similar finish and you can wax over gatorhide. It blended great, and Ive had no issues with that door since.
Wow you have soooo many cabinets! Love the two tone look! I painted mine about a 1 1/2 ago with chalk paint and water based poly. They are still holding up great!
I do! I wanted to cry about half way through but I did it! Thats awesome! That is what I would do differently today - use a poly acrylic! That is awesome to hear - thanks for sharing
Thank you for all your videos. I find them very helpful. Right now our kitchen is a mess 😂 we have decided to give it a facelift. We have been living with natural maple kitchen cabinets for 25 years and I’m so ready for a change. We are adding beautiful crown molding to the cabinets and bead board to the ends of the cabinets. Because of your review videos we are going to use general finishes milk paint and their poly top coat. The cabinets will be aged with glaze. We are also using stone coat epoxy to refinish the counter tops. I’m a diy gal and fortunate to have a husband that loves everything I do 😊. I have lots of experience with chalk painting furniture and love it but was looking for something smoother for the cabinets. Thanks again! Your kitchen is beautiful!!!
You did an excellent job explaining your process and what you learned/might do differently! I’m new to painting furniture and have started with Fusion Mineral Paint. Have some experience with General Finishes gel stain. Love your video tutorials!
So inspired to paint my lower cabinets black. I think I will stop hating the busy granite counter tops that I have. I can't justify ripping them out for quartz. Wish me luck.
You recommend General Finishes but it’s not available in my area. What would you recommend I use on my oak cabinets? I’ve tried your blending of gel stains with great success! Thanks for your response, Terry Sumner NY
Hi yes I would recommend Lilly moon opulent paint or fusion mineral paint - both my top favs. Lilly moon my discount code is borninabarn10 and fusion borninabarnfmp
Your cabinets look amazing. Would you ever consider using something like diy big top? I am considering doing my cabinets and I also have a ton of them. Thank you.
What an ambitious project. It still looks fabulous! Could I ask a question? I am painting a large cupboard with GF lamp black. What do you think about glazing the cupboard with GF's dark glaze for breaking up the expanses of paint? Or glazing and then dark wax? I value your knowledge and have learned so much. The tip of all was painting in one direction with metallic paint. What a difference in smoothness! Thanks and stay safe.
It certainly was! thank you so much! So I would choose one or the other, glaze or wax and keep in mind once you wax you can't go back (essentially paint won't adhere over that ever unless you take it off in the future). Honestly if its a coverage thing - Lamp Black has pretty good coverage, you could do 2 coats and then glaze. That's awesome, yes that took me a bit to figure that out with the metallic paints! :) I am so glad - Thank you for watching!
Finally an easy to understand video! I have a problem and have a feeling you’ll give me the best advice... Since I’m very crafty, I decided to paint with white chalk my laminate cabinets. Everything seemed going well until I’m doing the second coat of top coat. I purchased Varathane triple thick polyurethane (water based) which I was told it won’t give yellowing to whites. WRONG! I sanded it lightly but i can still see some yellowing. I wanted a resistant and durable coat but I’m now afraid of using another polycrylic. I’m thinking on sanding everything again (probably will have to give another light coat of the chalk paint after) and apply clear wax instead. I don’t care if it’s not too shiny but def don’t want a distress or yellowish look. Would you suggest me to follow my plan or to try a different brand of clear coat? Sorry for the long explanation.
Jannice Pérez Hi there! Ok so all whites will yellow or amber when sealed with a top coat - even a non yellowing one (kind of no such thing). All bright white paint will slightly yellow over time even without a top coat. Whites and light colors can react if clear coated with a water based poly. Water based topcoats are reactive and may draw out substances in the piece. It’s an industry wide issue and can happen right away, years later or maybe never. My suggestion is to use a stain blocker under your paint and switch to a different paint that is self sealing or has a top coat built in eliminating the need to add one. I like General Finishes stain blocker/primer, Brush-able White Enamel paint (built in topcoat) or their Snow White milk paint (self sealing). I hope this helps and good luck!
What a nice change! You do fine work. I see what you mean about your first kitchen! The original back splash was goofy looking. (Sorry, (awkward) if you put on there.)
Your cabinets look great! Love watching your videos and seeing all your work. You do a great job! I am currently spraying my cabinets in Fusion Mineral Paint. They look so beautiful. I think I should do a topcoat, so I purchased General Finish Matte topcoat. Here’s my question…..how do the finishes compare? I don’t want my cabinets to be shiny, and I LOVE the current finish. However, I want them to be durable. I thought you might be able to tell me since you use both of these products often. Thanks again for all the videos. I’m having a great time with all my painting projects 😊
Hi thank you so much! So GF topcoat is my all time favorite - however something to keep in mind when your talking durability - the higher the sheen the more durable. Matte topcoats are less durable (definitely not the workhorse of topcoats) then a satin, semi, etc. the matte will keep the same finish as fusions paint but your not adding as much durability/protection with the matte or flat. I recommend to do 2 coats of satin and finish with the matte. That way you have the durability built in but the finish with the matte look you want!
I too painted my kitchen cabinets 5 years ago. I used Annie Sloane primer red topped with the wax. Yes, they still look great. BUT I'm changing things up and now want WHITE cabinets. Can one go from a barn red to white?? Can I go over the waxed chalk paint with other products without making a royal mess? Would love your suggestions for which products could do the job.
Hi Lisa. So here's the thing, with Annie paint and wax, you can paint over them with Annie again (my stockist says that you can paint over waxed annie with annie), but if your switching up to another paint line, you will need to remove the wax (with mineral spirits and sanding). You can paint over Red with white as well, you will need to prime first though - so I will say you have your work cut out for you, but none of it is out of the question, just depends on how much effort your willing to put in :)
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thanks for the quick response! I think I'll feel safest doing it with Annie Sloane again. If I stick with that, would I still need a primer? I don't see where Annie Sloane has a primer. I am trying to look at the bright side...I don't have as many cabinets as you! :)
@@lisastoner2342 they don’t, you would have to use another brand, covering red may be tough, it you could do a test area to see how it will go without it.
No I don’t know anyone that would do the interior of the boxes 😀 your right that would be so mich work and then big risk of scratching and wear and tear with food and dishes in and out. I do the front and backs of doors and the exterior of the boxes.
One other question...I’ve considered top coating My Annie Sloan Pure White paint with General Finishes water poly, but I’m intimidated by the 3-4 coats that need to be sanded between each coat. I’m just wondering why you think the wax is harder to apply than the poly since you have to sand between each coat with the poly? Thanks for any info you have tine to provide.
First off if you use a water based poly over any white it will yellow it. So I would advise against it. This holds true for all white paints across the industry. As well you don’t have to sand in between each coat of poly, you only need to sand if it feels rough or gritty or if something has gotten into your topcoat. Waxing is way more work then applying poly. Harder on the hand/arm. I had a lot to do and wouldn’t do it like that again. Each coat of wax is applied then wiped and buffed, it’s a lot of physical work. If I were to paint my kitchen again now - 6 years later - I would choose a different paint. One that would. It need any topcoat - one that had one built in and was more designed for cabinets. General finishes brushable white enamel or wise owl paint one hour enamel. Good luck and happy painting!
We just painted our kitchen cabinets with a chalk paint, we’re curious oddments we’re can close finish after? I heard polyurethane gloss is ok for chalk paint? Anyone know this to be true? Thank you
I love the graphite color! Did you use the clear wax over the graphite or a dark wax? You did a great job! After watching this, I am anxious to start painting!
Yes this was the old graphite - they have since changed it s bit, but it’s still pretty. I did clear wax and dark wax. When you want to use dark wax, you always want to clear wax first, so the dark wax doesn’t sink right into that grain and move around as easily. When you clear wax first, it allows more control for the dark wax and won’t go on as heavy. It’s so much fun, good luck! Thank you 😀
I have a lot of cabinets as well. I really want to brighten up my kitchen. I’m new to painting, I’ve done a couple of small pieces. I’ve only used Annie paint as a beginner also. How much did it cost you to paint your cabinets? The paint is expensive, my worry is the cost. How many cans do you think you used?
TheFlyingFireBall it’s been so long I don’t remember the exact cost - probably a few hundred dollars. I had a contractor tell me if they painted it would have been $7000.00 - so I felt pretty good with a a few hundred 😀 any good quality paint will be more costly, but worth it.
@@floridagirl9064 in California the going rate depending on size is $5-15k, it wasn’t my contractor - it was a bid we received from one. I just recently helped a lady (who got a less than good job done) that paid $5,500 to have her kitchen done in Annie by a painter on the east coast - it’s not a cheap job. 😀
Yes I have mine dark waxed and if you don't want that farmhouse look - don't use it. Also never use on its own, always have clear wax first then dark wax - not as concentrated that way.
Yes absolutely - you will just want to prime it first. There are all sorts of good primers on the market from BIN (Lowes) to General Finishes (online and specialty shops)
I want to sell my house. I have the honey oak cabinets and all my trim is stained. I'm in the process of painting the trim. After watching videos of chalk painted cabinets it seemed that would be the best thing for me. Latex paint is not sandable and I hate brush marks. I do plan on priming and sanding to hide the wood grain. It there a better, easier, fast way to paint the cabinets besides chalk paint?
There are lots of options. If I were to do it again I would use something with a built in top coat. Priming and sanding won’t hide the grain, the only way to do that is use a grain filler first. Priming and sanding is necessary as part of the prep - but it won’t conceal the grain. I would use general finishes brushable white enamel (can be tinted to different colors), general finishes enduro poly, wise owl one hour enamel or Sherwin Williams emerald urethane. Chalk paint is good, it does require sanding in between coats and top coating.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique I have already painted an oak built in cabinet and mantel. The primer gets into the grain and fills it. I discover this trick when I have a new build and the painters did not counter sink or fill in nail holes and painted with semi gloss paint. They then used exterior wood filler and sanded. The paint pealed everywhere there was a nail. The contractor refused to replace or fix the paint. I had to figure out how to hide or fix the paint. I used oil base primer, dabbed it on over the pealing paint and sanded when it dried. It took 3 coats and came out smooth as velvet. Before I decide to use the primer I bought a product made to fill in the grain (Aqua Coat). It worked but was very hard to sand. I got some on the tile floor, I had to chip it off with a knife. Good stuff but took too much time.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique I love your videos, thank you! I'm thinking of repainting my kitchen cabinets. I would like something No VOC, non toxic, etc. You mention using something with a top coat built in (although I would probably give it an extra top coat). Wise Owl One hour enamel is one pain I'm considering but I would also like your opinion on using something like Fusion or Dixie Belle Silk for a project like this. Thank you!
@@sharono.7491 thank you! So wise owl is not a no VOC paint. However fusion is, you may want still topcoat them - since these are a high use area. I have not used Dixie bell silk yet - so I can’t speak to that one just yet.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique I guess I should have done more homework, I didn't realize that about Wise Owl. Sounds like you would not discourage from using Fusion (I know from watching your other videos you do like it for furniture). Thank you for your quick response!
Hi there - I have not. I keep wanting to give it a try but haven’t done so yet. For cabinets if I were to do mine now I would use Wise Owl Paint 1 hour enamel, General Finishes brushable enamel, General finishes milk paint. I do teach virtually if your interested in a one one one to help you get started as well.
I am a newbie to painting and I am getting ready to move into a house that needs alot of updateing and starting with kitchen. What would you recommend chalk or latex? I have been watching a lot of tutorials for chalk but I am so scared to mess something up .
So knowing what I know now about paints, I would choose a different paint than Chalk Paint. I would NOT use a latex paint. You want something that is made for furniture and cabinets and there are so many good paints for this on the market. I would use Wise Owl Paint One Hour Enamel (dries in one hour, great coverage and easy to work with - it was made for doors and cabinets and has a durable hard as nails finish - no top coat necessary). General Finishes Milk Paint (its a water based acrylic paint, made for furniture and cabinets - is easy to work with, self sealing and can be topcoated if you wish - but doesn't have to be). General Finishes also makes a crushable white enamel (can be tinted), made just for this type of job, no top coat necessary and easy to work with. I hope this helps!
TheFlyingFireBall no you don’t have to fully sand, but I would clean, clean and clean again. 😀 depending on the finish, you may want to scuff sand lightly. I would use General Finishes brushable white enamel, enduro poly or wise owl one hour enamel.
I would spray and use a different paint, I am happy with them still but it was a lot of work and there are so many more paint lines out now than when I did it - plus I know more now! :)
Hi there - I am not sure what you mean the original video? This is the only video I have on my cabinets. I did these way before I was into painting for a living and had a youtube channel - so that was never filmed if you asking about the actual process of doing them. :)
Hi. I am wondering how much prepwork you did before painting the cabinets? I have also heard that you can use general finishes top coat for protection and to give it a bit shine instead of the more mathe look. Do you have any experience with that?
A lot! 😂 prep is key to a great long lasting finish. I clean with a tsp substitute, scuff sand, wiped down again and then painted. I did not prime, but sometimes that is a necessary step. I use General finishes all the time - back then I didn’t, it that is all I use now to topcoat all my pieces.
Robert Corpuz I’m not sure if your asking a question or making a comment. Yes you can - I didn’t because I didn’t want to yellow the white and I wanted them aged with dark wax. Even a water based poly will yellow whites.
@@robertcorpuz4891 Ok! :) Yes you definitely can - I would use a different product if I were to do them today. Either a product with a paint and poly (General Finishes Enduro Poly or GF Brushable white enamel). Wise Owl makes a one hour enamel in many colors as well and is a durable all in one designed for cabinets and doors.
Thanks for the advice! Actually I was really looking to skip a step and not do a poly. I Watched one of your vids on general finish milk paint. Going that route in driftwood😊. Thanks again!
Sue Cunningham hi Sue! So I would recommend General Finishes Milk Paint - it’s self leveling, self sealing and a very nice consistency. It is a great paint for just starting out - very forgiving and easy to work with. The cost is $17.00 on average for a pint - which is enough to do a big dresser. The price point is very competitive.
Born in a Barn Boutique thank you. After leaving that question I found your review videos, guess I should’ve started there, sorry. I do have one more question, I found a store with milk paint in my area but it’s not general finishes. Are they all created equal? And no top coat necessary, correct?
Sue Cunningham no problem! No they are not all created equal! GF is an acrylic/water based milk paint (not the chippy milk paint) it provides a low lustre sheen. GF is self sealing - it’s optional to topcoat and recommend for highs traffic type pieces
I did it! It looks really great. One thing, the desk is still very fragile, a fingernail scratched it. Will this just take time to harden or should I have put a topcoat on?
Oh gosh its been so long - I don't remember!. I have a lot of cabinets so i know it was quite a bit. It will depend on how many square feet you are trying to cover. If you tell your stockist/retailer they can help you figure out how much you will need.
You have no idea how helpful this video has been to me. This is the first time that I have chalk painted anything, and you guessed it-I’m doing my kitchen. On top of that, I have made my own paint. I have done a ton of hours researching , but I’ve only found bits and pieces of information that have been helpful. I have finally settled on a linen type finish. I have been going berserk trying to settle on a topcoat. Thanks for your amazing advice 🙏🤗‼️
I am so happy to hear that! You are quite welcome and good luck with your project! I personally love general finishes high performance top coat and Lilly moon stellar shield topcoat
Great information, thank you for sharing. Hard to find wear reviews.
Of course! 😀
Cracked me up. I live a ranch life and try so hard to get the real dirt look to not be there and you put it there for effect. I had to chuckle the little life differences. Thank you for the informative video and the non intended chuckle.
That's funny. Yes I worked hard to get that dirty/worn look! :) Thank you for watching!
@@BorninaBarnBoutique at least your hard work is clean with the look and not the real dirt
@@GeorgiasGarden you can paint melamine, but adhesion will be your big challenge. You will want to,use a tsp to clean, scuff and use a gripper/primer to help adhesion as well as seal.
Thank you for your 5 year update!!
Thank you for the update. I painted my cabinets last year with Annie Sloan and her wax. I did not distress or have an aged look. I found that the cabinet where I keep my trash can got the worst wear and after several touch ups realized that it is probably caused by all the acids in food items getting on hands then on the door handle area. So, I very tentatively took that door and sanded a bit - repainted and used gatorhide by Dixie Bell. It has a very similar finish and you can wax over gatorhide. It blended great, and Ive had no issues with that door since.
You bet. I’m glad you found a solution and it looks great!
Wow you have soooo many cabinets! Love the two tone look! I painted mine about a 1 1/2 ago with chalk paint and water based poly. They are still holding up great!
I do! I wanted to cry about half way through but I did it! Thats awesome! That is what I would do differently today - use a poly acrylic! That is awesome to hear - thanks for sharing
Great prep work. The weathers look isn’t for me but I appreciate the honesty. The water based polys are amazing nowadays and really nice to apply.
Thank you for all your videos. I find them very helpful. Right now our kitchen is a mess 😂 we have decided to give it a facelift. We have been living with natural maple kitchen cabinets for 25 years and I’m so ready for a change. We are adding beautiful crown molding to the cabinets and bead board to the ends of the cabinets. Because of your review videos we are going to use general finishes milk paint and their poly top coat. The cabinets will be aged with glaze. We are also using stone coat epoxy to refinish the counter tops. I’m a diy gal and fortunate to have a husband that loves everything I do 😊. I have lots of experience with chalk painting furniture and love it but was looking for something smoother for the cabinets. Thanks again! Your kitchen is beautiful!!!
Wow, what a daunting task! You have so many doors, but you did a great job and you should be so proud of yourself! Thanks for your review as well.
It was - there was many times I was ready to cry! :) Thank you and you are quite welcome!
This was very helpful! Thank you!
Oh how I wish I had seen this last year when I had my cabinets professionally painted with Annie Sloan!!
Your kitchen is awesome!
You did an excellent job explaining your process and what you learned/might do differently! I’m new to painting furniture and have started with Fusion Mineral Paint. Have some experience with General Finishes gel stain. Love your video tutorials!
Thank you so much! I love Fusion that is one of my top paints
Love the two tone
Thank you 😀
So inspired to paint my lower cabinets black. I think I will stop hating the busy granite counter tops that I have. I can't justify ripping them out for quartz. Wish me luck.
So excited for you - good,luck and happy painting 😀
Love your videos.
Thank you so much 😀
You recommend General Finishes but it’s not available in my area. What would you recommend I use on my oak cabinets? I’ve tried your blending of gel stains with great success! Thanks for your response,
Terry Sumner NY
Hi yes I would recommend Lilly moon opulent paint or fusion mineral paint - both my top favs. Lilly moon my discount code is borninabarn10 and fusion borninabarnfmp
Your cabinets look amazing. Would you ever consider using something like diy big top? I am considering doing my cabinets and I also have a ton of them. Thank you.
Thank you and I haven’t ever used that one, I have used several other water based polys that I like and I would use now instead of waxing for sure
@@BorninaBarnBoutique thank you for your quick response.
What an ambitious project. It still looks fabulous! Could I ask a question? I am painting a large cupboard with GF lamp black. What do you think about glazing the cupboard with GF's dark glaze for breaking up the expanses of paint? Or glazing and then dark wax?
I value your knowledge and have learned so much. The tip of all was painting in one direction with metallic paint. What a difference in smoothness! Thanks and stay safe.
It certainly was! thank you so much! So I would choose one or the other, glaze or wax and keep in mind once you wax you can't go back (essentially paint won't adhere over that ever unless you take it off in the future). Honestly if its a coverage thing - Lamp Black has pretty good coverage, you could do 2 coats and then glaze. That's awesome, yes that took me a bit to figure that out with the metallic paints! :) I am so glad - Thank you for watching!
annie sloan in a video said wax three coats a week apart for each coat and that is sure proof protection no need to redo.r
Interesting! Thanks for sharing.
Finally an easy to understand video! I have a problem and have a feeling you’ll give me the best advice... Since I’m very crafty, I decided to paint with white chalk my laminate cabinets. Everything seemed going well until I’m doing the second coat of top coat. I purchased Varathane triple thick polyurethane (water based) which I was told it won’t give yellowing to whites. WRONG! I sanded it lightly but i can still see some yellowing. I wanted a resistant and durable coat but I’m now afraid of using another polycrylic. I’m thinking on sanding everything again (probably will have to give another light coat of the chalk paint after) and apply clear wax instead. I don’t care if it’s not too shiny but def don’t want a distress or yellowish look. Would you suggest me to follow my plan or to try a different brand of clear coat? Sorry for the long explanation.
Jannice Pérez Hi there! Ok so all whites will yellow or amber when sealed with a top coat - even a non yellowing one (kind of no such thing). All bright white paint will slightly yellow over time even without a top coat. Whites and light colors can react if clear coated with a water based poly. Water based topcoats are reactive and may draw out substances in the piece. It’s an industry wide issue and can happen right away, years later or maybe never. My suggestion is to use a stain blocker under your paint and switch to a different paint that is self sealing or has a top coat built in eliminating the need to add one. I like General Finishes stain blocker/primer, Brush-able White Enamel paint (built in topcoat) or their Snow White milk paint (self sealing). I hope this helps and good luck!
What a nice change! You do fine work. I see what you mean about your first kitchen! The original back splash was goofy looking. (Sorry, (awkward) if you put on there.)
Andrea Walker Thank you. Haha, it was painted on to look like a backsplash.
Your cabinets look great! Love watching your videos and seeing all your work. You do a great job! I am currently spraying my cabinets in Fusion Mineral Paint. They look so beautiful. I think I should do a topcoat, so I purchased General Finish Matte topcoat. Here’s my question…..how do the finishes compare? I don’t want my cabinets to be shiny, and I LOVE the current finish. However, I want them to be durable. I thought you might be able to tell me since you use both of these products often.
Thanks again for all the videos. I’m having a great time with all my painting projects 😊
Actually,, it’s General Finishes High Performance Satin, not Matte.
Hi thank you so much! So GF topcoat is my all time favorite - however something to keep in mind when your talking durability - the higher the sheen the more durable. Matte topcoats are less durable (definitely not the workhorse of topcoats) then a satin, semi, etc. the matte will keep the same finish as fusions paint but your not adding as much durability/protection with the matte or flat. I recommend to do 2 coats of satin and finish with the matte. That way you have the durability built in but the finish with the matte look you want!
Thank you!! You are brilliant!!!!
Could you tell me about your kitchen backsplash? Your whole kitchen is beautiful!
Thank you! We got that tumbled stone backsplash at Floor and Decor!
I too painted my kitchen cabinets 5 years ago. I used Annie Sloane primer red topped with the wax. Yes, they still look great. BUT I'm changing things up and now want WHITE cabinets. Can one go from a barn red to white?? Can I go over the waxed chalk paint with other products without making a royal mess? Would love your suggestions for which products could do the job.
Hi Lisa. So here's the thing, with Annie paint and wax, you can paint over them with Annie again (my stockist says that you can paint over waxed annie with annie), but if your switching up to another paint line, you will need to remove the wax (with mineral spirits and sanding). You can paint over Red with white as well, you will need to prime first though - so I will say you have your work cut out for you, but none of it is out of the question, just depends on how much effort your willing to put in :)
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thanks for the quick response! I think I'll feel safest doing it with Annie Sloane again. If I stick with that, would I still need a primer? I don't see where Annie Sloane has a primer. I am trying to look at the bright side...I don't have as many cabinets as you! :)
@@lisastoner2342 they don’t, you would have to use another brand, covering red may be tough, it you could do a test area to see how it will go without it.
Do you mind sharing how many coats of wax you used on your chalk painted cabinets? Did you use Annie Sloan’s wax? Thanks for your help!
I did 3 coats 2 clear - one dark snd yes I had used her wax
Would it be possible for you to post what your cabinets looked like before. I am considering using this on grainy oak cabinets.
So there is no way in the comments here to post a pic, if you email me I don't mind sharing the photos at all - borninabarnboutique1@gmail.com
Did you paint the inside of the cabinets? Not the doors. The actual inside of the cabinets. I feel like that would be an insane amount of work!
No I don’t know anyone that would do the interior of the boxes 😀 your right that would be so mich work and then big risk of scratching and wear and tear with food and dishes in and out. I do the front and backs of doors and the exterior of the boxes.
One other question...I’ve considered top coating My Annie Sloan Pure White paint with General Finishes water poly, but I’m intimidated by the 3-4 coats that need to be sanded between each coat. I’m just wondering why you think the wax is harder to apply than the poly since you have to sand between each coat with the poly? Thanks for any info you have tine to provide.
First off if you use a water based poly over any white it will yellow it. So I would advise against it. This holds true for all white paints across the industry. As well you don’t have to sand in between each coat of poly, you only need to sand if it feels rough or gritty or if something has gotten into your topcoat. Waxing is way more work then applying poly. Harder on the hand/arm. I had a lot to do and wouldn’t do it like that again. Each coat of wax is applied then wiped and buffed, it’s a lot of physical work. If I were to paint my kitchen again now - 6 years later - I would choose a different paint. One that would. It need any topcoat - one that had one built in and was more designed for cabinets. General finishes brushable white enamel or wise owl paint one hour enamel. Good luck and happy painting!
@@BorninaBarnBoutique is so much
We just painted our kitchen cabinets with a chalk paint, we’re curious oddments we’re can close finish after? I heard polyurethane gloss is ok for chalk paint? Anyone know this to be true? Thank you
I would use a poly acrylic (water based) - I use it all the time - polyurethane (oil based) can yellow or amber over paint.
I love the graphite color! Did you use the clear wax over the graphite or a dark wax? You did a great job! After watching this, I am anxious to start painting!
Yes this was the old graphite - they have since changed it s bit, but it’s still pretty. I did clear wax and dark wax. When you want to use dark wax, you always want to clear wax first, so the dark wax doesn’t sink right into that grain and move around as easily. When you clear wax first, it allows more control for the dark wax and won’t go on as heavy. It’s so much fun, good luck! Thank you 😀
What kind of wax did you use?
I have a lot of cabinets as well. I really want to brighten up my kitchen. I’m new to painting, I’ve done a couple of small pieces. I’ve only used Annie paint as a beginner also. How much did it cost you to paint your cabinets? The paint is expensive, my worry is the cost. How many cans do you think you used?
TheFlyingFireBall it’s been so long I don’t remember the exact cost - probably a few hundred dollars. I had a contractor tell me if they painted it would have been $7000.00 - so I felt pretty good with a a few hundred 😀 any good quality paint will be more costly, but worth it.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique paint cabinets for 7 k... Get a new contractor lol
@@floridagirl9064 in California the going rate depending on size is $5-15k, it wasn’t my contractor - it was a bid we received from one. I just recently helped a lady (who got a less than good job done) that paid $5,500 to have her kitchen done in Annie by a painter on the east coast - it’s not a cheap job. 😀
Note to self-Don’t use dark wax, or your cabinets will look dirty! 😢
Yes I have mine dark waxed and if you don't want that farmhouse look - don't use it. Also never use on its own, always have clear wax first then dark wax - not as concentrated that way.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique thanks for the tips!
What wax did you use? You did a wonderful job! You are super brave ⭐️⭐️
Haha! 😀 I used the Annie Sloan wax, clear and dark.
How long should you wait before lightly sanding and applying a second coat of Fusion paint?
DeLaine Hamilton 2 hours depending on you climate
My kitchen have paneled wall. I want to paint them so bad. Have you ever painted over paneling. If so, what do you suggest.
Yes absolutely - you will just want to prime it first. There are all sorts of good primers on the market from BIN (Lowes) to General Finishes (online and specialty shops)
Thanks so much!
K Gaither your welcome! Good luck
I want to sell my house. I have the honey oak cabinets and all my trim is stained. I'm in the process of painting the trim. After watching videos of chalk painted cabinets it seemed that would be the best thing for me. Latex paint is not sandable and I hate brush marks. I do plan on priming and sanding to hide the wood grain. It there a better, easier, fast way to paint the cabinets besides chalk paint?
There are lots of options. If I were to do it again I would use something with a built in top coat. Priming and sanding won’t hide the grain, the only way to do that is use a grain filler first. Priming and sanding is necessary as part of the prep - but it won’t conceal the grain. I would use general finishes brushable white enamel (can be tinted to different colors), general finishes enduro poly, wise owl one hour enamel or Sherwin Williams emerald urethane. Chalk paint is good, it does require sanding in between coats and top coating.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique I have already painted an oak built in cabinet and mantel. The primer gets into the grain and fills it. I discover this trick when I have a new build and the painters did not counter sink or fill in nail holes and painted with semi gloss paint. They then used exterior wood filler and sanded. The paint pealed everywhere there was a nail. The contractor refused to replace or fix the paint. I had to figure out how to hide or fix the paint. I used oil base primer, dabbed it on over the pealing paint and sanded when it dried. It took 3 coats and came out smooth as velvet. Before I decide to use the primer I bought a product made to fill in the grain (Aqua Coat). It worked but was very hard to sand. I got some on the tile floor, I had to chip it off with a knife. Good stuff but took too much time.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique I love your videos, thank you! I'm thinking of repainting my kitchen cabinets. I would like something No VOC, non toxic, etc. You mention using something with a top coat built in (although I would probably give it an extra top coat). Wise Owl One hour enamel is one pain I'm considering but I would also like your opinion on using something like Fusion or Dixie Belle Silk for a project like this. Thank you!
@@sharono.7491 thank you! So wise owl is not a no VOC paint. However fusion is, you may want still topcoat them - since these are a high use area. I have not used Dixie bell silk yet - so I can’t speak to that one just yet.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique I guess I should have done more homework, I didn't realize that about Wise Owl. Sounds like you would not discourage from using Fusion (I know from watching your other videos you do like it for furniture). Thank you for your quick response!
Have you used Behr chalk paint? My kitchen is a lot smaller than yours lol but I am a beginner and don't know what's good.
Hi there - I have not. I keep wanting to give it a try but haven’t done so yet. For cabinets if I were to do mine now I would use Wise Owl Paint 1 hour enamel, General Finishes brushable enamel, General finishes milk paint. I do teach virtually if your interested in a one one one to help you get started as well.
Winter I have and it's fantastic
Put what board in the side of the cabinet? I just purchased unfinished cabinets I wanna paint and I know the laminate stuff won’t work
I’m not sure I understand the question?
I am a newbie to painting and I am getting ready to move into a house that needs alot of updateing and starting with kitchen. What would you recommend chalk or latex? I have been watching a lot of tutorials for chalk but I am so scared to mess something up .
So knowing what I know now about paints, I would choose a different paint than Chalk Paint. I would NOT use a latex paint. You want something that is made for furniture and cabinets and there are so many good paints for this on the market. I would use Wise Owl Paint One Hour Enamel (dries in one hour, great coverage and easy to work with - it was made for doors and cabinets and has a durable hard as nails finish - no top coat necessary). General Finishes Milk Paint (its a water based acrylic paint, made for furniture and cabinets - is easy to work with, self sealing and can be topcoated if you wish - but doesn't have to be). General Finishes also makes a crushable white enamel (can be tinted), made just for this type of job, no top coat necessary and easy to work with. I hope this helps!
Benjamin Moore Advanced or Insulx Cabinet Coat will be the best paints you can buy in a brick and mortar store.
Sherwin williams urethane
With the other paints that you said you would use, do you have to sand first?
TheFlyingFireBall no you don’t have to fully sand, but I would clean, clean and clean again. 😀 depending on the finish, you may want to scuff sand lightly. I would use General Finishes brushable white enamel, enduro poly or wise owl one hour enamel.
If you were to do it again, would you spray rather than brush?
I would spray and use a different paint, I am happy with them still but it was a lot of work and there are so many more paint lines out now than when I did it - plus I know more now! :)
Hi! How do I access your original video?
Hi there - I am not sure what you mean the original video? This is the only video I have on my cabinets. I did these way before I was into painting for a living and had a youtube channel - so that was never filmed if you asking about the actual process of doing them. :)
Hi. I am wondering how much prepwork you did before painting the cabinets? I have also heard that you can use general finishes top coat for protection and to give it a bit shine instead of the more mathe look. Do you have any experience with that?
A lot! 😂 prep is key to a great long lasting finish. I clean with a tsp substitute, scuff sand, wiped down again and then painted. I did not prime, but sometimes that is a necessary step. I use General finishes all the time - back then I didn’t, it that is all I use now to topcoat all my pieces.
What are the name of the colors you chose? Gorgeous
Hi. I used Annie Sloan Graphite with dark wax on the lowers and on the uppers Old White with dark wax
I'm wondering if you could do the same to Ikea cabinets?
So you can - prep is key. I would degloss/scuff sand/use a bonding primer and seal!
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thank you for the info. I'll do that.
You can do a water based poly acrylic over chaulk paint?
Robert Corpuz I’m not sure if your asking a question or making a comment. Yes you can - I didn’t because I didn’t want to yellow the white and I wanted them aged with dark wax. Even a water based poly will yellow whites.
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Sorry! Yes...i was asking a question. Thanks!
@@robertcorpuz4891 Ok! :) Yes you definitely can - I would use a different product if I were to do them today. Either a product with a paint and poly (General Finishes Enduro Poly or GF Brushable white enamel). Wise Owl makes a one hour enamel in many colors as well and is a durable all in one designed for cabinets and doors.
Thanks for the advice! Actually I was really looking to skip a step and not do a poly. I Watched one of your vids on general finish milk paint. Going that route in driftwood😊. Thanks again!
What are your recommendations for furniture paint For a beginner and cost effective? Thank you!
Sue Cunningham hi Sue! So I would recommend General Finishes Milk Paint - it’s self leveling, self sealing and a very nice consistency. It is a great paint for just starting out - very forgiving and easy to work with. The cost is $17.00 on average for a pint - which is enough to do a big dresser. The price point is very competitive.
Born in a Barn Boutique thank you. After leaving that question I found your review videos, guess I should’ve started there, sorry. I do have one more question, I found a store with milk paint in my area but it’s not general finishes. Are they all created equal? And no top coat necessary, correct?
Sue Cunningham no problem! No they are not all created equal! GF is an acrylic/water based milk paint (not the chippy milk paint) it provides a low lustre sheen. GF is self sealing - it’s optional to topcoat and recommend for highs traffic type pieces
Born in a Barn Boutique thank you for your time and advice!
I did it! It looks really great. One thing, the desk is still very fragile, a fingernail scratched it. Will this just take time to harden or should I have put a topcoat on?
How many cans of paint you used?
Oh gosh its been so long - I don't remember!. I have a lot of cabinets so i know it was quite a bit. It will depend on how many square feet you are trying to cover. If you tell your stockist/retailer they can help you figure out how much you will need.