Awesome. If I were rich, I wluld probably get a different engine, but I'm not, lol. And I do like this old pickup. It gets a lot of attention when I drive it.
I'm the original owner of a 95 4 runner. Working on kinks. Just a warning dude tape the exhaust manifold all the way around before you lose your head gasket to over heating. It will save you a headache. Guess I'm not the only one that like his 3.0 VZE engine. Looks good
Even when replacing the valve cover seals with new ones, definitely uses silicone about 1 or 2 inches past around the corners of each cover. Even if you use oem Toyota valve cover gaskets. It's just not worth removing the endless amount of things, just to redo the valve cover gaskets again, with silicone this time. Also because all those vacuum lines are so short & give you no wiggle room to put your hands in there, replace them all with some that are 3 inches longer. This way you can move them around or look in between to see where you may have a coolant line or oil leak. All those spaghetti lines make it hard to see through clearly. And it's hard to figure out if any of them slipped off or are lose, creating erratic idle & drivability. I won't even get into clutch pressure & bleeding problems. Nice classics, slow as hell, pain on the arse to work on, but could be a lot of fun. Owned my 1991 3.0 4x4 for about 15 years, clean little classic with original black paint & white stripes. Original heavy duty ARB bumber that the previous owner installed on it. I even put some after market modern 4 piece Toyota TRD grill amber LED lights. I use them as driving lights. Combined with double 7" white LED rectangular fog lights that I also use as driving lights at dusk, it gets plenty of looks.
I'm the original owner of a 1992 Toyota 4x4 3.0. It has 312,000 uses a quart of oil every 1200 miles. I've changed the oil and filter ever 3000 miles. I also removed the EJR as you did. I get 19 to 21 mpg around town over 25 hwy. Replace or keep an eye one the oil cooler line from the radiator to the oil cooler. Change your oil!
Awesome video, my brotha! Your dedication to the 3vze engine has motivated me to completely rebuild my fathers truck from the ground up. Although the body will get to the level of how your truck looks, the engine, suspension, transmission, differential, and the brakes are all fully rebuilt. If you get a chance, I've made a video here on RUclips regarding my journey. Again, thank you for the motivation. Keep those videos rollin'!
I have 94 Toyota 4 Runner 3.0 3zve and I get close to 23 mile per gallon all did I cancel, of back pipe and rerouted, allowing motor to have complete air flow kooler rapid water flow with controlled temperatures
Like the shaved parts on the intake. Getting ready to delete my egr. All my issues are coming from the old cracked lines so there headed to the trash can
There is a small rubber u shaped tube which coolant runs thru on that sensor manifold behind the intake which plugs up and somehow affects temp/fuel/idle. Something like that. i pulled the whole thing off when I did mine. Debris restricting flow in the sensor manifold too if i recall proper...
Super clean, factory bumper looks better for sure. Sucks mine looked that good 11 years ago. Extra cab an all except its a 93 base model with factory sr5 suspension package 3.0l 4x4. Keep an eye on the distributor the pickup likes to go bad as well as the igniters having issues usually a hit or miss with new AM anyways good trucks and engines minus the manifold design on driver side.
Looks good! BTW, I don't THINK you have to pull the engine to replace that water pipe, but I'm not certain. I just replaced my engine so saw how all that went in there. The whole intake has to come off, but that bank of sensors that you want to replace is attached to it, so it is the perfect time to do that when you break it down. Honestly the hardest part of the job should be removing the plenum, but you have made that considerably easier with your EGR delete. I didn't replace every sensor in there and I have a hot start issue as well. Takes 3-4 seconds of cranking to fire it off, but it does fire off every time. Cold starts are perfect, and immediate hot starts are fine as well. The sweet spot for me to have issue is a grocery run...so about an hour hot soak. But I'm not convinced it is one of those sensors. I think it may be a fuel pressure issue. Plan to test that very soon. If the check valve in the fuel pump doesn't hold and pressure bleeds down while hot, the fuel in the rails will vaporize, causing a delay in start while it pressurizes again. Just something to consider.
I pulled the one solenoid that was supposed to help with this issue but I hooked it back up and it didnt help any. Any thought on how to fix this ? Also my fuel pump is only a few years old. I'm missing something. TIA
I may run a temp button switch to add a shot of fuel and see if it helps. Ive never liked how these engines don't turn the pump on prior to turning the ignition like most vehicles
@@Leon1982db I did end up checking my pressure and it was fine. Even passed the 5 minute test and didn’t drop below 21 psi until maybe 30 minutes. But that 30 minute point seems to be where I start having my slow start issues. I bet if you jumper the diag port to run the fuel pump for a couple of seconds it will fire right up. In fact, my rig has been sitting about 40 minutes now…think I’ll go give that a shot.
@@Leon1982db ok, I just did that test and no change for me. I ran the pump for about 30 seconds to get good pressure and cool fuel running through the rails, hopped in to start it up and it took about 3 seconds to fire off like always. My issue may be VAF related or some other nonsense. No diagnostics show that yet, but I picked up some parts at the vineyard I can swap pretty easily to see if any of that helps.
I put silicone on every bit of the gasket. On both sides. I feel better about it, I know that sucker is sealed forever now. I tried not to over do it though.
So I have a suggestion, your cold air intake, at the end of it get rid of the stock air box. All it does is restrict air flow. Then replace with a nice cone filter.
Since you put this vid out, have you been able to resolve your hot/cold start issues, the other question the knock sensor that you changed position have you had any problems running the motor, I am looking at trying something similar, you have given me some great trips and ideas now with regards to air intake system.
Knock sensor has worked great. On really hot days it will take a few cracks so I just use a toggle switch to prime to fuel pump about 5 seconds and it starts right up.
I know this is old, but resources on the old 3.0 limited. Im attempting to build a boosted 3.0. pushing about 8psi just for the hell of it. Any tips? Ive bigger injectors, headers, head studs. Better afm. Ported intake, cleaned heads. Im working on wrapping lines and such for heat protection.
It looks like it's idling a little fast on that tac. can you explain that please. Thanks Don. It's been a month since I asked about the fast idle, do you even still own it.
I ended up running a switch to my fuel pump to give it a shot of fuel and it starts up a lot better. Just an extra step I have to take when I go to start it but it's starting on the first attempt
It never seems to do it in the colder weather. But I just putin a switch and I'll prime it for like 3 seconds and it starts much quicker like that. So I'm content with that.
how to you delete all those vaccum lines that go to the blue, red and green things? As well as those other big hose in that area? I see your harness is also different, did you mod it?
Them colored things you're referring to are the solenoids. The only one that some ppl keep is the brown one. The other 2 are EGR. I just tucked the plugs out of sight. I removed my upper plenum to get rid of the steel lines and just ran a fuel and vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.
Not sure there's really a performance difference but a lot less junk to work around it it looks much better. No check engine light because I'm using a resistor that came with the kit to fool the ECU.
What mpg you get? Just curious. My 89 3.0 5 speed 4x4 Xtra cab sucks fuel. Not sure if replacing the o2 sensor would help. It runs really well. I deleted the egr.
@@Leon1982db figured I'd ask. In my opinion mine isn't great lol. I usually don't care about mpg but I can physically see the gas gauge moving on a short trips. I see where others say they are getting 14-20 mpg. Not sure how. I'm running stock everything. I'll replace the 02 sensor and see where that gets me. It's original with 170,000 miles.
i get 17+ highway on my 93 t100 with 3.0. 15-16 around town or in summer when running AC a lot. I had a ladder rack on there before and it would only get 14-15 mpg due to the wind resistance.
It's a little high sometimes but I've had it at 800 too. a little high doesn't bother me. That's probably my timing where i set it to where it was running the best while driving.
@@Chaparro.Locochon.88 I used koyo this time around. I was actually working for koyo at the time lol. No discount, but yeah. But I unfortunately did go with the cheaper parts but I went with a set that had good reviews. I don't off road with this truck so hopefully they'll hold up ok. Thank you tho
Hell yeah man! Toyota Gang! I have a 90 Toyota pickup, with the 3vze.
Awesome. If I were rich, I wluld probably get a different engine, but I'm not, lol. And I do like this old pickup. It gets a lot of attention when I drive it.
I'm the original owner of a 95 4 runner. Working on kinks. Just a warning dude tape the exhaust manifold all the way around before you lose your head gasket to over heating. It will save you a headache. Guess I'm not the only one that like his 3.0 VZE engine. Looks good
I did a master rebuild less than 25 k ago. Actually looking to sell the truck soon. I'm wanting a better daily.
Very clean 3vze! Probably the cleanest I've seen, great job. Definitely subscribed and plan to clean mine up like yours. Keep them videos coming! 👍
Appreciate it!
Even when replacing the valve cover seals with new ones, definitely uses silicone about 1 or 2 inches past around the corners of each cover. Even if you use oem Toyota valve cover gaskets. It's just not worth removing the endless amount of things, just to redo the valve cover gaskets again, with silicone this time. Also because all those vacuum lines are so short & give you no wiggle room to put your hands in there, replace them all with some that are 3 inches longer. This way you can move them around or look in between to see where you may have a coolant line or oil leak. All those spaghetti lines make it hard to see through clearly. And it's hard to figure out if any of them slipped off or are lose, creating erratic idle & drivability. I won't even get into clutch pressure & bleeding problems. Nice classics, slow as hell, pain on the arse to work on, but could be a lot of fun. Owned my 1991 3.0 4x4 for about 15 years, clean little classic with original black paint & white stripes. Original heavy duty ARB bumber that the previous owner installed on it. I even put some after market modern 4 piece Toyota TRD grill amber LED lights. I use them as driving lights. Combined with double 7" white LED rectangular fog lights that I also use as driving lights at dusk, it gets plenty of looks.
I love the YOTA on the intake, absolutely beautiful
thank you 😎
I'm the original owner of a 1992 Toyota 4x4 3.0. It has 312,000 uses a quart of oil every 1200 miles. I've changed the oil and filter ever 3000 miles. I also removed the EJR as you did. I get 19 to 21 mpg around town over 25 hwy. Replace or keep an eye one the oil cooler line from the radiator to the oil cooler. Change your oil!
Thanks for the tip !
Awesome video, my brotha! Your dedication to the 3vze engine has motivated me to completely rebuild my fathers truck from the ground up. Although the body will get to the level of how your truck looks, the engine, suspension, transmission, differential, and the brakes are all fully rebuilt. If you get a chance, I've made a video here on RUclips regarding my journey. Again, thank you for the motivation. Keep those videos rollin'!
That is awesome!
Sweet truck!! Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Thanks! Will do!
I have 94 Toyota 4 Runner 3.0 3zve and I get close to 23 mile per gallon all did I cancel, of back pipe and rerouted, allowing motor to have complete air flow kooler rapid water flow with controlled temperatures
And still have factory Emmissions all stock
If I ever get the funds, I may go for the Raptor, and while it's out, I'd slap some headers on it
I'm jealous. My 91 is only getting 14-15. Seems to run good, so I'm not sure what's going on.
You are so proud of it. As you should be.😁
Like the shaved parts on the intake. Getting ready to delete my egr. All my issues are coming from the old cracked lines so there headed to the trash can
Lemmi know how it goes.
Good looking 3.0,, I'd watch that idle thought my 1993 4runner with the 3.0 is specced to run at 800 rpms. Might be worth looking into
I've adjusted that screw some but it's not made a difference. Cpuld be something else. I don't drive it much.
Its fixed. I just kept turning that screw in.
There is a small rubber u shaped tube which coolant runs thru on that sensor manifold behind the intake which plugs up and somehow affects temp/fuel/idle. Something like that. i pulled the whole thing off when I did mine. Debris restricting flow in the sensor manifold too if i recall proper...
I know where youre talking about but not sure exactly what ya done. Make a video and post it and tag the link and I'll check it out. Thanks
Looks great
Lot of work on the intake. 👌
I love it tho 😍 😁
Super clean, factory bumper looks better for sure. Sucks mine looked that good 11 years ago. Extra cab an all except its a 93 base model with factory sr5 suspension package 3.0l 4x4. Keep an eye on the distributor the pickup likes to go bad as well as the igniters having issues usually a hit or miss with new AM anyways good trucks and engines minus the manifold design on driver side.
I'd like to have a factory bumper but can't see spending the money on one.
Great looking truck, mine is a 1991, where didnyou get those side steps, looking to put some on mine...Take care!!
They came with the truck. I took them off, but when my wife rides she likes to have them there so I put them back on 😄
Clean!!!! Definitely an inspiration 🔥🔥
Thanks !
Thanks for the video. Looks awesome. Can you post information on your intake pipes ie what you used or where to purchase. Thanks and keep it up.
It was scraps mostly. Kinda got lucky. I have a video where I wrapped it tho.
@@Leon1982db bro your hot start. Have you replaced your fuel pressure regulator ? I think that was my issue.
Clean job !!!! Good.
Thanks!
Haha damn dude you're hilarious. Nice truck my friend
not sure I'm hilarious but thanks 😂
Show us how you routed your coolant hoses please!
All the coolant hoses are as they were. Changed them the HPS silicone but that's it.
Hi man great job on the intake manifold I would like to see the video on how you clean the intake I would like to have mine just as clean as yours
I have another intake. Maybe this summer I'll get a chance to shoot a video
Looks good! BTW, I don't THINK you have to pull the engine to replace that water pipe, but I'm not certain. I just replaced my engine so saw how all that went in there. The whole intake has to come off, but that bank of sensors that you want to replace is attached to it, so it is the perfect time to do that when you break it down. Honestly the hardest part of the job should be removing the plenum, but you have made that considerably easier with your EGR delete. I didn't replace every sensor in there and I have a hot start issue as well. Takes 3-4 seconds of cranking to fire it off, but it does fire off every time. Cold starts are perfect, and immediate hot starts are fine as well. The sweet spot for me to have issue is a grocery run...so about an hour hot soak. But I'm not convinced it is one of those sensors. I think it may be a fuel pressure issue. Plan to test that very soon. If the check valve in the fuel pump doesn't hold and pressure bleeds down while hot, the fuel in the rails will vaporize, causing a delay in start while it pressurizes again. Just something to consider.
Thanks! I'll look into this more
I pulled the one solenoid that was supposed to help with this issue but I hooked it back up and it didnt help any. Any thought on how to fix this ? Also my fuel pump is only a few years old. I'm missing something. TIA
I may run a temp button switch to add a shot of fuel and see if it helps. Ive never liked how these engines don't turn the pump on prior to turning the ignition like most vehicles
@@Leon1982db I did end up checking my pressure and it was fine. Even passed the 5 minute test and didn’t drop below 21 psi until maybe 30 minutes. But that 30 minute point seems to be where I start having my slow start issues. I bet if you jumper the diag port to run the fuel pump for a couple of seconds it will fire right up. In fact, my rig has been sitting about 40 minutes now…think I’ll go give that a shot.
@@Leon1982db ok, I just did that test and no change for me. I ran the pump for about 30 seconds to get good pressure and cool fuel running through the rails, hopped in to start it up and it took about 3 seconds to fire off like always. My issue may be VAF related or some other nonsense. No diagnostics show that yet, but I picked up some parts at the vineyard I can swap pretty easily to see if any of that helps.
great video. can you post a video on how you rerouted the coolant lines? thanks
I would like a video on this too.
All the coolant lines are direct replacement. I haven't rerouted anything.
I put silicone on every bit of the gasket. On both sides. I feel better about it, I know that sucker is sealed forever now. I tried not to over do it though.
I did that the first time I built it, and it still leaked. This time around I only did the corners and there are no leaks . How's yours holding up ?
So I have a suggestion, your cold air intake, at the end of it get rid of the stock air box. All it does is restrict air flow. Then replace with a nice cone filter.
I had a cone filter but I didn't care for the sound it made. Doesn't sound nice like the hondas with a cold air 😁
Since you put this vid out, have you been able to resolve your hot/cold start issues, the other question the knock sensor that you changed position have you had any problems running the motor, I am looking at trying something similar, you have given me some great trips and ideas now with regards to air intake system.
Knock sensor has worked great. On really hot days it will take a few cracks so I just use a toggle switch to prime to fuel pump about 5 seconds and it starts right up.
I know this is old, but resources on the old 3.0 limited. Im attempting to build a boosted 3.0. pushing about 8psi just for the hell of it. Any tips? Ive bigger injectors, headers, head studs. Better afm. Ported intake, cleaned heads. Im working on wrapping lines and such for heat protection.
Sounds like you know more about boosting than I do already 😂
Maybe you should start a channel based off you build. 😎
where’s the dash cover from? i can’t find any for my yota
Ebay I think
UPDATE: front end work is all done. Me and my cousin did all the work. Had it put in line and new tires are on.
can you please put up a video of your EGR delete?
I have one. Just check my other videos. Ty
Where did you get the blue hoses and blue spark plug wires.
Hoses are HPS, wires are NGK.
Wheres the video of you installing those HPS hoses at?! Thanks
Sorry. No video there. These hoses were installed about 5 years ago or so. I've been working on this truck for a while.
It looks like it's idling a little fast on that tac. can you explain that please. Thanks Don. It's been a month since I asked about the fast idle, do you even still own it.
It does idel a little high, but I've honestly just never adjusted it. I don't drive it much.
Its fixed.
Where did you get the blue spark wires and the blue radiator hose/ price?
The hoses are by HPS. They were almost $200 years and years ago. Worth it tho. Wires are NGK, they may have been arpund $30.
I have a 94 and want to put wheels and tires like yours on my ride. What wheels and Tires sizes are you running. Great truck by the way
The wheels are from JEGS. 15X8, but i can't remember the offset. Tires are 31x10.50x15R
Top class
I finally fixed the idle ! I just turned the screw in on the throttle body. It's in spec now.
Looks good brother 👍👏
thanks 😎
Dougie! Great job first of all. Question. The fuel rail regulator. How did you route vacuum lines to the VCV & plenum? Any help greatly appreciated.
They're just underneath that plenum and run to the side where it was before
Everything is hooked up to where it should go, just bypassed them steel lines
@@Leon1982db what do you use for the fuel return line?
@@brianlindsey1997 just some high pressure fuel line long enough to bypass that pipe. Ran it and the vacuum line under the intake
@@Leon1982db what about your fuel pressure regulator? I dont even see the VCV for it
Did you need to add a resistor with your EGR delete? Any check engine light issues?
No light. And yes im using the resistor. I used the LCE kit.
how is your fuel economy since deleting egr valve
No difference it seems
my truck also has trouble starting when its hot did you evere figure that out?
I ended up running a switch to my fuel pump to give it a shot of fuel and it starts up a lot better. Just an extra step I have to take when I go to start it but it's starting on the first attempt
I wanted to add. You should look at your fuel pressure regulator. Same issue here.
@trei
@@Leon1982db fuel pressure regulator for the hot start fix
@@texasforever3.025 thanks
Where did you run your line for your fuel pres regulator
From the pass side of the intake where it went originally. Just bypass that pipe.
Which knock sensor you have installed? Can you write down oem part number please?
I got it from the toyota dealership because I planned on installing it in it's correct location. Just ran out of time
@@Leon1982db thanks for reply!
I have a 91 3.0 with 540k miles I highly doubt it's original but all I can see is Toyota Crimp clamps as far as eyes can see
That's crazy !
How many miles this truck make per galon
better than it used to for sure but that's mostly from the knock sensor relocate. Haven't did the math tho
Did you ever figure out the cold start? I have a 93 4runner that has the same issue.
It never seems to do it in the colder weather. But I just putin a switch and I'll prime it for like 3 seconds and it starts much quicker like that. So I'm content with that.
The switch is to prime the fuel? So, all in all, it was a fuel issue.
@@Leon1982db I'd love to see a quick video of how you wired that.
Maybe your fuel pressure regulator isn't working correctly. There is a test in the FSM where you check that it's holding pressure.
Knock sensor relocate video available?
No but its simple. Just get a new pigtail and a knock sensor and mount it somewhere easy.
how to you delete all those vaccum lines that go to the blue, red and green things? As well as those other big hose in that area? I see your harness is also different, did you mod it?
Them colored things you're referring to are the solenoids. The only one that some ppl keep is the brown one. The other 2 are EGR. I just tucked the plugs out of sight. I removed my upper plenum to get rid of the steel lines and just ran a fuel and vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.
Did the egr delete improve the trucks performance? Will the CEL come on with the delete?
Not sure there's really a performance difference but a lot less junk to work around it it looks much better. No check engine light because I'm using a resistor that came with the kit to fool the ECU.
@@Leon1982db how bout MPG? my mpg sucks
@moejr14 i noticed the most improvement when I got the timing in this trucks sweet spot
@@Leon1982db is the timing hard to do?
What mpg you get? Just curious. My 89 3.0 5 speed 4x4 Xtra cab sucks fuel. Not sure if replacing the o2 sensor would help. It runs really well. I deleted the egr.
I don't drive it much, I have 2 other vehicles. I haven't even tried to figure it out, honestly.
@@Leon1982db figured I'd ask. In my opinion mine isn't great lol. I usually don't care about mpg but I can physically see the gas gauge moving on a short trips. I see where others say they are getting 14-20 mpg. Not sure how. I'm running stock everything. I'll replace the 02 sensor and see where that gets me. It's original with 170,000 miles.
@@CopeManMTNDEW sounds like something is off either your Air flow meter is bad or sensors are making your engine run rich
i get 17+ highway on my 93 t100 with 3.0. 15-16 around town or in summer when running AC a lot. I had a ladder rack on there before and it would only get 14-15 mpg due to the wind resistance.
Buenas una consulta tengo una 4runner con ese motor 3vz-E . En donde estan huvicados los sendores de oxigeno ?
Just one, and it's not far from where the two exhaust manifolds join.
same truck i have
Great job man, did your engine temperature run any hotter after deleting your EGR?
No its fine
The EGR he’s not the greatest idea to delete. Engine runs cooler, also gas mileage Is better with it than without it
High idle?
No. Usually idles around 800 when warm
But I dont mind it idling a little high. I honestly don't drive it much
If you are in California your truck will not pass smog test.
I'm in Tennessee
But the idle is too high.
It's a little high sometimes but I've had it at 800 too. a little high doesn't bother me. That's probably my timing where i set it to where it was running the best while driving.
also it doesn't always idle there. drove it the other day and it idled around 800 most the day 🤷♂️😄
It's fixed
U want to sell it....lmk
I've thought about it but It's hard to know how to price it. I'm sure it's worth more to me than it's actually worth, lol.
dont use that cheap ass ebay shit trust me get moog
What parts a are you referring to?
The suspension stuff ?
ball joints,tie rods,idler arm,control arm bushings or the who assembly,everything
@@Leon1982db and for bearings use timken
@@Chaparro.Locochon.88 I used koyo this time around. I was actually working for koyo at the time lol. No discount, but yeah. But I unfortunately did go with the cheaper parts but I went with a set that had good reviews. I don't off road with this truck so hopefully they'll hold up ok. Thank you tho
😂still lacks full potential !.
It does what I need it for. If money wasn't an issue, the sky would be the limit. It holds many of us back.
...but if you have any helpful and affordable options,I'm all ears ! 👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂👂
Put a 7MGE air flow meter in it and feel the difference, best bang for the buck.
Nice video man, i just got an 89' very clean, would like to delete it but I can't find a kit, you mind telling me where you got yours please.. thanx
LCE . buy directly from them
Sweet truck👍
Thanks !