This video relieved a lot of stress... You just don't know how much stress!!! I bought a used Exmark Lazer Z and it was in free wheel mode. I closed those valves and now it moves as it should... I was looking at new pumps 15 minutes ago. Yep.
A no non-sense video that explains things clearly...thank you!!! I am wrestling with an Exmark Lazer Z HP, and I hope what you have described here will help.
Good day I think alot of hydro-trans are neglected. Some ridi ng tractors can't even be changed unless tearing apart. Good video Thanks Please put snow plough away, I forgot we are getting snow right now LOL Thanks
Planning on changing the transmission fluid myself. Glad I watched. Would have been a disaster without your direction. My lazer Z stalls when I release the brake. Other you tube showed that it was likely the Seat delay module control. Can not locate it. Any suggestions where it might be mounted? Model LZ26Kc604
Seat safety switch for sure, id run your model number and type in part diagram. Then try to find where it's located. Might not be in the seat, could be on the seat bracket.
Awesome video! I Just bought one couldn’t pass it up you should guess what I paid lol . Runs fine but has oil leak right at the back under the mower at I believe the driveshaft Pulley it’s dripping every few seconds what do you think it could be. Hopefully I won’t have to pull Engine
My favorite line of mowers, the Lazer Z HP. Just bought bought a 44” for getting thru small gates on customer yards. Currently rebuilding the deck but hydro service is on the list too. Did you leave the reliefs open one turn for bleeding or just draining?
Crack them open for both, then tighten them up and drive a bit, open em up and drive a bit. Basically follow the steps and you'll get the bubbles out of the oil eventually!
So I bought a new filter and some 15w50 today... not sure what they had in my system but it was greenish and ugly. Wasn’t burnt smelling or anything. I’m going to post pics in my google drive and send you the link... also, I couldn’t get all of it out. Opened the reliefs, removed the filter (which took a strap wrench and a break bar to loosen!). After I topped the reservoir off and ran it, the reservoir still shows this greenish liquid. Looks like I’ll have to drain it 3 or so times to purge it all out (Orem filters here are $34+tax US). Do those stens filters filter down to 10 micron? I looked at wix but they are 21-23 micron. Also having a deck belt issue that’s driving me nuts.
See if this link works. The brown residue in the pan was old oil residue. The fuel filter pic is crap that came out of the tanks and line and the inlet side of the filter drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-2tQWGNdtXAIVuz3kOERqx3Y38Ptw3uz
@@mikecooley3361 I'd recommend changing the oil, run it for a couple weeks & do it again? There's no harm in changing the oil & if you believe you have some gunk in there, then it is worth the $34
Help me out… Spoke with someone from Parker wheel motors about a year ago. He swore to use their hydraulic oil instead of the oil recommended by Exmark. I was replacing a hydro pump at the time. Year later after using the Parker hydraulic oil, I’m replacing the same hydro pump. Could have been a bad pump, but I’m really regretting not using the oil recommended by Exmark. Which one should I be using?
Hard to say on the cause of failure, would almost be worth contacting the manufacturer to send that back for an investigation into the cause of failure. As for the oil recommendations, I always use what the manufacturer recommends, unless a customer or myself choose otherwise. If that case, it's always noted on the invoice, just to protect myself. (Customer requested this oil). I'd always recommend the manufacturers oil, and frequently changing oil and filters is an inexpensive (albeit time consuming) way of preventing large expensive failures.
X marks use a closed-loop hydro system. A closed loop system does not circulate all of the hydro oil is only circulates what's in the pumps and in the motors and in the lines. Are does bleed back up into the reservoir but the oil in the reservoir that never circulates in the system it only goes in as needed. You didn't change the oil in the system you just change the oil in the filter.
How often should this be done?! I'm actually going to start to work for a landscaping company as their small motor mechanic/ shop manager? I have work on more MTD and Husqvarna brand item.
The transmission oil and filter should be changed at 250, 750, 1250, 1750, and 2250 hours plus or minus a 50 hour window on all Z models. Check your hour meters and mark it down on your invoices if you have them.
Eliminator Performance no problem, I just bought a mower just like this one yesterday and I plan on doing most of the work on it. I think the motors are the same it’s got a 19hp kaw.
This video relieved a lot of stress... You just don't know how much stress!!! I bought a used Exmark Lazer Z and it was in free wheel mode. I closed those valves and now it moves as it should... I was looking at new pumps 15 minutes ago. Yep.
Glad it helped you to get back up and running again, thanks for watching!
A no non-sense video that explains things clearly...thank you!!! I am wrestling with an Exmark Lazer Z HP, and I hope what you have described here will help.
You sir make an EXCELLENT video!!!
Very nice! This was quite helpful. The Lazer Z has 1500 hours on it so do I need to change hydraulic fluid? As far as I know, its never been done.
I would recommend at least every 1000hrs, for the money it's cheap insurance considering the cost of 2 hydrostatic transmissions.
Good job! Thanks for taking the time,very helpful!
Thanks for the video, just got through changing the oil on my mower.
Right to the point video, good stuff!
Good day I think alot of hydro-trans are neglected. Some ridi ng tractors can't even be changed unless tearing apart. Good video Thanks Please put snow plough away, I forgot we are getting snow right now LOL Thanks
We may have to get the shovels out one last time, they're calling for snow this weekend!
I am surprised that oil does not weep out the vent holes on the motors . Good detail , Great video .
Thanks for watching Chris, and the oil is a little more viscous (thicker). Those vents are 1 way I believe.
Excellent explanation, kudo's 2 U !!
Planning on changing the transmission fluid myself. Glad I watched. Would have been a disaster without your direction.
My lazer Z stalls when I release the brake. Other you tube showed that it was likely the Seat delay module control. Can not locate it. Any suggestions where it might be mounted? Model LZ26Kc604
Seat safety switch for sure, id run your model number and type in part diagram. Then try to find where it's located. Might not be in the seat, could be on the seat bracket.
How do you get rid of the “jumping “ or Stutter in the sticks on a 2023 e series Lazer Z?
Excellent video. Thanks.
Awesome video! I Just bought one couldn’t pass it up you should guess what I paid lol . Runs fine but has oil leak right at the back under the mower at I believe the driveshaft Pulley it’s dripping every few seconds what do you think it could be. Hopefully I won’t have to pull Engine
Thanks for video and specifics of all steps🤘
Jake, you said thanks for watching! But i say thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Appreciate it Minou!
Good video. Very helpful.
I use the old engine oil for coating lawn mowers , for rust prevention .
That works!
2003 z blowing front seal right side ?
Interesting video and well explained.
Thanks for watching!
My favorite line of mowers, the Lazer Z HP. Just bought bought a 44” for getting thru small gates on customer yards. Currently rebuilding the deck but hydro service is on the list too. Did you leave the reliefs open one turn for bleeding or just draining?
Crack them open for both, then tighten them up and drive a bit, open em up and drive a bit.
Basically follow the steps and you'll get the bubbles out of the oil eventually!
So I bought a new filter and some 15w50 today... not sure what they had in my system but it was greenish and ugly. Wasn’t burnt smelling or anything. I’m going to post pics in my google drive and send you the link... also, I couldn’t get all of it out. Opened the reliefs, removed the filter (which took a strap wrench and a break bar to loosen!). After I topped the reservoir off and ran it, the reservoir still shows this greenish liquid. Looks like I’ll have to drain it 3 or so times to purge it all out (Orem filters here are $34+tax US). Do those stens filters filter down to 10 micron? I looked at wix but they are 21-23 micron.
Also having a deck belt issue that’s driving me nuts.
See if this link works. The brown residue in the pan was old oil residue. The fuel filter pic is crap that came out of the tanks and line and the inlet side of the filter
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-2tQWGNdtXAIVuz3kOERqx3Y38Ptw3uz
@@mikecooley3361 Yes, the Stens 120-380 is a 10 Micron filter!
@@mikecooley3361 I'd recommend changing the oil, run it for a couple weeks & do it again? There's no harm in changing the oil & if you believe you have some gunk in there, then it is worth the $34
Help me out…
Spoke with someone from Parker wheel motors about a year ago. He swore to use their hydraulic oil instead of the oil recommended by Exmark. I was replacing a hydro pump at the time. Year later after using the Parker hydraulic oil, I’m replacing the same hydro pump. Could have been a bad pump, but I’m really regretting not using the oil recommended by Exmark. Which one should I be using?
Hard to say on the cause of failure, would almost be worth contacting the manufacturer to send that back for an investigation into the cause of failure. As for the oil recommendations, I always use what the manufacturer recommends, unless a customer or myself choose otherwise. If that case, it's always noted on the invoice, just to protect myself. (Customer requested this oil). I'd always recommend the manufacturers oil, and frequently changing oil and filters is an inexpensive (albeit time consuming) way of preventing large expensive failures.
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you!
X marks use a closed-loop hydro system. A closed loop system does not circulate all of the hydro oil is only circulates what's in the pumps and in the motors and in the lines. Are does bleed back up into the reservoir but the oil in the reservoir that never circulates in the system it only goes in as needed. You didn't change the oil in the system you just change the oil in the filter.
How often should this be done?! I'm actually going to start to work for a landscaping company as their small motor mechanic/ shop manager? I have work on more MTD and Husqvarna brand item.
The transmission oil and filter should be changed at 250, 750, 1250, 1750, and 2250 hours plus or minus a 50 hour window on all Z models. Check your hour meters and mark it down on your invoices if you have them.
I use a punch and make a hole in the bottom of the filter on my pick-up truck to lessen mess
Great video 👍
Thanks for watching!
Thanks buddy great job.
Thanks for watching!
Eliminator Performance no problem, I just bought a mower just like this one yesterday and I plan on doing most of the work on it. I think the motors are the same it’s got a 19hp kaw.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
thanks!
Thank you