1950s Standard 10 won't run - head gasket failure or something worse?!
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- Опубликовано: 25 окт 2024
- If you've watched this video and thought 'wow I fancy a Standard 10 too!' or even just fancy a Standard, my top advice would be to go straight over to the Standard Motor Club and ask for their help. Here is a link to their website: www.standardmo...
Please note: any brands, companies or clubs mentioned in this video about my 1950s British Standard 10 are because I love them or enjoy working with their products. Nobody has paid me to be mentioned and if I mention a brand and it's ever an advert, I'll be explicit.
Also, if you were looking for a sign to buy a classic car, this video is it. GET BUYING THOSE CLASSICS!!
you can feel paul's enthusiasm radiating out 😂
Paul bloody loves it. He was the biggest cheerleader for buying Speedy and he’s so kind being helpful. I’m so lucky to work with such a great bunch of lads.
He exudes a calm dignity and confidence. Just the sort of teacher you would want.
A friend of mine got a second-hand single cylinder motorbike engine at an auto jumble and tested compression at the time with a adjustable spanner he had with him.
He bought the engine, but could not get it to run at home.
On lifting the head, he found the seller had put a spring inside the cylinder to fake good compression.
Another great video ! 😁
Arghhhh. Why are people so dishonest. Poor guy!
"Piston return springs" was a spoof video going round a few years ago, I wonder if that's where the seller got the idea?
@@penfold5095 “ tested compression with a adjustable spanner”?? And how does a spring fix poor compression . ?
I learnt to use a starting handle when I was a kid. My dad taught me so much about cars then, but he had forgotten more than I'll ever know. For a time, he had an Austin A40 (Mark 2 Farina) that didn't like to start on a cold winter morning. He managed to start it reliably by turning it over with the handle before using the starter. If it was still reluctant, he always managed to start it as long as he had the torch and starting handle in his hand when he turned the key. Like a kickstart on a motorbike, a starting handle is a valuable piece of kit which should never have been ditched. I even had an old, arthritic uncle who would start a Rover 3-litre with a handle although he was on doctor's orders not to do it. I'm enjoying watching your progress with the Standard 10, they were reliable cars with a touch of quality.
It’s because moderners would think it’s ridiculous 😂. Personally I prefer older cars even if they’re colder, slower and harder to find bits for purely because stuff like the starting handle is just great. Hopefully I won’t need it but glad it is there.
This is your second engine rebuild, you’re a real mechanic now.
Most of us ( and me) have only done 2 or 3 engine rebuilds in a lifetime
Two guys and a Standard 10 with Steph Directing the filming, great vid Steph.
😂😂
My granny, who lived in Holmbridge, had a Standard Ten and loved it. It averaged 42 MPG, she kept a log of her travels many to Leicester and Burton-on-Trent.
Dear Steph,
I love your videos on whatever topic, driving someone else's cherished car, motor shows, and so on, but this series is the absolute tops. Those little Standards were everywhere when I was a child in the 1960s. At the time we had a 1958 four door grey [red seats] Morris Minor with trafficators.
I always thought the Standards were just that bit more posh!
This video shows that my childhood thought was not wrong. You can see the quality here, not to say the Morris was a poor car. Far from it. I reckon that your little Standard will live again as a remarkable gem from the olden days! Much more interesting than a Triumph Herald for example!
I shall enjoy your work getting such a lovely car back in safe running order.
Best wishes from George in Herefordshire.
No computers no electric brain. Basic machine happy days ❤👍🏻
Seeing you explaining the starting handle took me right back to my Grandad showing me how to do it on his Austin Cambridge. Happy memories. Looks like you'll be ok with a bit of fettling on your engine.
Nice to see you going through taking the cylinder head off step by step, great tutorial
Not unusual for a reconditioned engine to be fitted, but great to see these old cars still on the road
All well you can get to the NEC
Thank you as always for sharing
Absolutely! We’ve got to keep the old stuff going. It’s the greenest way!
That was educational Steph.
Cheers!
I grew up about 1/2 a mile away from that factory in Coventry, my Dad used to do trimming for Triumph until it closed in the early 80s, although I did work experience in the early 90s at the Rover design studio which had replaced the factory by then.
I'm enjoying the videos & looking forward to seeing you & the car at the NEC next month :)
Oh I love stories like that ☺️. See ya there!
Thanks for your video Steph, I think in my younger days I have changed two or three head gaskets, ford escort, BMW 528 I, and a Austin Cambridge, thanks again for sharing, 👍👍.
For me, it was a Mini 1000 and Hunter 1725 alloy head. 😅
Great content. Brings back teenage memories in 1964 of my first car, 1954 Standard 8. SPP491. I had 3 years, did +30k miles. I could replace a burnt out exhaust valve and fit decoke kit in half a day, and often did! Happy days. 😊
This was a great demonstration of how to diagnose the problem. Really enjoyable Steph.
Steph,
As an Engineer, I would strongly recommend getting the head refurbished and machined with hardened exhaust valve seats and new valve set fitted. While you're at it, skim the head and take 50 though off. That will raise your compression ratio to a slightly more modern figure than the 1950s levels, where they were still in the legacy of crappy 'Pool' petrol. There are some brilliant electronic ignition systems, that fit within the distribotor (AccuSpark, for one) which, for about £40 and an hour to fit will boist economy and performance will improve. All best wishes.
Good advice now you have it in bits overall it totally. No knowledge of Standard 10's but had a couple of Morris Minors late 50's and 50k miles was considered max before engine replacement or rebuild. The mini was when it all changed, 100k miles not a problem! Regards
It's always a good idea to disconnect the battery before working in the engine bay.😁Obviously not when cranking the engine though🤣
Yeah my bad!
Enjoyed this video Steph. Great that you're doing tutorials showing how simple these old dears are to work on (as a rule). Nice car, i look forward to seeing Speedy at the NEC. GOOD LUCK!
I love the direction your channel is growing in! As much as I enjoy your choice of vehicles and your matching outfits to go with them you really suit the boilersuit too and garage look too :)
Brilliant video Steph. I reckon this is going to be so useful to anyone doing a head gasket for the first time. Everything was really well explained Diagnistics, dismantling and evaluation and we get to find out more about the car too. I cant wait for the next instalment. Are we going to see the cylinder head being machined?
You will! We filmed the entire process xx
Starting handles are useful for all sorts or reasons, not least for turning the engine over when setting valve clearances, points etc. Once the head is skimmed and the engine back together, it'll be 'sweet 'Good luck!
Thank you!
All the water should have been drained out first, there is not meant to be any water sitting in the bores! Glad to see you removed the water!
In case you missed the bucket below, we did. There was a wee bit of water left but it had stopped dripping!
@@idriveaclassic ....i'm just wondering if Standard fitted the block with a drain tap as well...? Well hidden, low down, covered in grot so hard to see..? It' would take you over into 2025, but while skimming the 'head pricing up (and assessing availability) of hardened seat inserts for the exhaust valves would be worthwhile. Skimming the head's not a problem provided it's not been done previously, (Super unleaded tends to be 97 to 99 RON) however if the seats recede too far an iron 'head is - as you know- rendered scrap. I skim watched this vid so i may have missed some chat on these subjects, apologies.
The Radiator factory was literally just across the road from the car factory, it was still there when I visited in 1982.
Lovely Car that ......Hope to hear it soon
Me too!
Progress well done whilst the head is off ,have it gone through ,skim pressure test valve guides and at the least face the valves cut the seats and lap them back in and if you're looking at using this as a daily Steph,do the full unleaded seats conversion whilst you're in there,have you checked for end float yet ? Another good thing to do would be to get the radiator flushed through and a pressure test done ,after all you wouldn't want to overheat a new head gasket good luck.
Good advice on the rad. Sadly no time to sort the unleaded conversion and the budget needs to be fed into safety critical elements.
Ya. I’ve driven 10’s of thousands of miles on engines without hardened seats. Never an issue.
Nice update.
Thanks!
Worth getting that radiator re-cored rather than replaced. Still a few places around doing this
Yeah there’s a few places locally. Deffo one to be done asap.
When I bought my antique car it was overheating. Took it to a shop to have it boiled out. Turns out squirrels had gotten into it and filled it with acorns.
@@idriveaclassic Do tell who does re-cores Steph :) I can't find anybody to re-core a radiator for less than a grand round here in Oxfordshire.
The starter died on my old Morris Minor, and I used the crank to start it for six months... very easy, and always started instantly.
Steph it's not looking too scary... I had a suspect head gasket on my Minor.. I was losing coolant, but that was all... I decided to check by pressurising the cylinders with air and found a leak... I was hoping to find something like you have (but not as bad). I had some suspicious marks on a couple of bores, so in the interest of being cautious as I'm driving across to Western Australia next year, we took the sump off and dropped the pistons/rods... it was not good.... it looked like sand had gone through some of the bearings and had scored the crank as well... my head had 4 cracks and valve recession! So I've had to source and rebuild a new head as well as polished the crank... basically aside from not getting recorded, it'll be a new reconditioned engine... I'm thinking you're be in a much better position.....❤
Wow I look forward to seeing you go across to WA! Send me some pics
Great series really enjoying following the progress, I still can't believe how little rot there is in this lovely car. I'm quite jealous, but as I have almost zero practical ability it's probably best I just enjoy watching the journey 😄
Great show 👏
Thank you!
To do a thorough internal test, you should use compression ratio to work out your maximum pressure(CR x 20 to get psi) , 80% & 66%. then crank engine, at 2 rev's you should reach 66%, 4 rev's 80% and 6 rev's MP. Then repeat test with 30 ml of oil down bores. Then do a cylinder leak test, where you push air into cylinder at TDC. Listen at exhaust, Air Intake, look for bubble in coolant, and listen at oil filler. These steps combined will tell you what is worn, prior to dis-assembly.
Thank you!
Steph: when your mates give up their evening to help you break down your engine, please don't tell them to hurry up because you have a curry waiting for you at home, lol. The next episode should be called "The Man Upstairs Flattens the Standard 10's head". By the condition of the engine bay, as you pointed out, that car has not had a hard life. I'd believe the mileage. I think you will find that this might actually be the original Goldstar engine, introduced in March 1957. Yours still has the old grill style that also changed in the same year. Perhaps the engine change was before the grill change, and your car was produced between?
Honestly, it’s just banter. We all have a joke and have a lot of laughs off camera (mainly at silly stuff which would make no sense to other people!)
My Grandfather worked at Cov Rad. The standard factory was literally down the road from there 😊
Great vid Steph just in time for my first break love the docs 👍
Enjoy!
Another great instructional video Steph. Still got the 1300fwd? Took mine down the road the other day after its 40yr slumber. 👍
Provisionally sold! I met this little Standard and decided she needed me more and I felt a calling.
Story my Form Teacher told of his Standard 8. How terrifying it was when he travelled to Ireland (I think) by ferry and they used to hoist the cars onto it with harnesses dangling from a crane.
Do grind the valves or even replace the exhaust valves while head is off. Head removal is easy on the 10 .
I have run a 1983 Granada 2.8 for years on unkeaded with no problems . Used at moderate speeds yours should be fine .If the engine is in good condition should be very quiet indeed. The fan makes more noise than the engine ! They can last 150 k or even more if looked after . If ever you need to remove the gearbox , drill holes in floor to reach the top bolts . Makes life a lot easier . Good luck .
Great advice thank you
Howdy Steph, when I first got my current 101 I was able to start her on the handle, now with the Tickford Windsor it isn't possible, I do miss it, it's quite a party trick.
"Paul, you've been engine-building since the dawn of time.", "Thank you." Ha, ha, ha…
😂😂😂😂😂😂. I feel like I need to tone down our ridiculous banter for these videos and be more of a serious adult.
@@idriveaclassic no please don't! 😊
Steph please don’t “Tone down” anything. You’re doing a great job! Thanks also to your colleagues for their support with Speedy!
Hi Steph, that seems to be a weak spot in those engines. I had a 1959 Austin A40 - exactly the same problem - Gasket gone between 3 and 4. A weekend in the garage stripping down and replacing said gasket and 'geronimo', all was well. Take care 🙂 X X
You take care too lovely x
Steph, will you be putting new hardened valve seats in to cope with none leaded fuel? I know there are additives you can put in the fuel , but since you have the head off ....?
I don’t think so. Purely because I don’t have the time on this occasion or it won’t make the NEC.
You only need hardened seats on the exhaust valves, and you are unlikely to need them on that engine, because it is a relatively low revving engine with a cast iron head that has most likely built lead memory over the years.@idriveaclassic
The additives, such as Valvemaster+ or Wurth Lead Substitute work really well in my experience.
Do they put ethanol in your petrol in the UK? We can get it without, but it costs more and is really hard to find in higher octane.
@@seed_drill7135normal petrol is 95 octane with 10% ethanol, premium is 98 octane with 5% and there is 0 ethanol still available
Well done about the advice on the starting handle (usually called a crank handle in Oz) I once had an old Allis Chalmers tractor which we always started using the crank handle. And did she ever kick at times when you least expected it.
You can carry out a rough & ready compression test using the starting handle - if there’s a loss of compression, it takes less effort!
Nice to see one of these. The first family car I travelled in was a really basic "no boot lid sliding windows" Standard 8. Dad went to the showroom to look at the new Herald but didn't like it and he ended up with the Standard as they were selling them off cheap.
As a matter of interest how are you going to get all the water out of the oil system before restarting?
Can you do a video on skimming the head? I did all this stuff as my first proper job after leaving school. Should be interesting and show those who don’t know what getting your head skimmed is all about.😊
Reminded me, that the core plug at the back of the head went on mine but it can be done in situ if necessary (order a set for the boot 😂)
Thank you! I’ll order some x
I recently had a battery that went bad when I was out in my 1963 Austin Cambridge. I stopped my car when I was out shopping and had to jump out and get the starting handle. Sounds easy - right? Not so easy when your car has an automatic transmission. I got it started after some very hard cranking on the handle. My old Magnette and A55 MK2 were very easy to start on the handle. Barely took any effort.
This car will be “right as rain” really soon I’m sure.
What a beautiful car!
Gotta ask, Steph. Why turn the ignition on for a pull starter when ya doing a compression test???
Standard Triumph combined in the mid '50's I think and they shared a lot of parts. Was the earlier Herald a 1000 cc engine or was it 1100 cc? The 1500 spitfire engine would probably drop straight into your 10! Also, Coventry Climax forklifts used the 2.5litre Vanguard/TR engine in different states of tune, for a while. Somebody at the Club will know more than me!
If you are planning long trips don't forget to replace any old rubber pipes in the fuel line, that E5 petrol eats them for breakfast ..and they don't always show an obvious leak but let in air which produce puzzling faults..
Are the head studs tork to yield? If so they will need replacing since they have stretched and can't be reused. Looks like your in good hands and will have it back together quickly.
When testing thermostat don't use the saucepan mum was about to make the gravy in causing Sunday Lunch Chaos..
Awesome Steph, your Standard 10 is in better shape than my recently purchased Land Rover. 😊👍
Wishing you luck for the Landy ☺️
@@idriveaclassic Thanks, same to you for the Standard, hope you can sort the engine out. 👍
Hi Folks. Great video... Nice DMs too..GN
My old truck ? Ute has a Standard motor but a Massey Ferguson 2138cc kero complete with mechanical Governor and Zenith up draft carb and Gravity feed fuel from a tank behind the cab .. I know what it’s Rego as and numbers match from first built in 1952 but who built it ? Was it Austin/morris Australia ? A Dealer ? But it is called a A40 but no not even close gear box rear axle are Bedford . I’ve added a 1974 after market overdrive so I use it as a 6 speed
Looks like You might have lucked out if it's just the head, if you get it skimmed well it's off have it done and the valve seals as well so you don't have to put in a lead replacement additive in.🤞👍
I would put in some lead free valves while the head is off if it as not got then in
Put some petrol down the ports whilst the head is off to make sure the valves are sealing properly. 👍
Gold star engines fitted into Super !0's then later 50's wider rear windows tens. A little more bhp.
Head gasket replacement is relatively easy these days.
When was it difficult?
A low reading also could be a bad valve too.
Great video, nice methodical approach. Paul can go back to fire breathing….
I assume you drained the oil so what did that look like?
why not drop in an mx5 lump and the 5 or 6 spd box they come with? rebuild your old lump by all means but upgrade to the 1.8 mx5 lump
and you'll not regret it . all round its way a better motor
Leaking valves are a common cause of low compression.
Looks like the early '60's Triumph Herald engine
It is the same. We talked about it in the first vid ☺️
I was gonna say, you are so tiny now, you can fit into a micro car, easily, with room... good for you, BTW.
You said about using a starting handle and the damage it could do to the thumb but nothing about how to avoid it,all of us who lived in this era knew the thumb was always positioned above the handle so if the engine kicked back it just made it jerk out of the hand with no damage to thumb. I find these demonstrations are not very helpful and in my day if we wanted to work on engines we found out the hard way the pitfalls and used our comon sence and a workshop manual.
Get yourself a Kenlowe fan, the fan on old classics can't handle modern traffic. Maybe consider an alternator.
My minor has managed for over a decade 😂
Hi Steph, You could lock me in a garage and i would fix all of your stuff. I think your the Bees knees
Hi Steph, what sort of cost is involved if paying a garage to carry out the work shown. Including parts and labour.
At the end of the project, we will be doing a costing video! ADO charges £50 + VAT an hour and if this was two hours like it took us, it would be £120. Every job is different and presents new challenges which is why the team always do an estimate for every job where a customer wants a rough idea of what something will cost ☺️
@@idriveaclassiccheers Steph, love the channel 👍
Would my 1500 Wolseley out of snow drift and ditches loads of times. Great for turning a cold engine over in winter thus easing load on battery.
Cant you tell buy engine block # what year of manufacture the engine is. I relize the car is 70 co it could have had several replacements in it.
I reckon it’s had one replacement at some point. Engine is sort of late 50s. Unsure of precise age. So wish I had some history.
Let me know the engine number, and I'll be able to tell you the origin of the engine. You might get yourself a BMIHT Certificate to find out the original engine number@@idriveaclassic
It's an old car. Back in the day piston rings would not last 100 000 miles in those small engines. If it has been standing for a long time the rings might be stuck.
Can I audition to be in one of your videos ?
Hahaha. You’ve got stiff competition from Kev, Paul and Ed 😂
👍👍👍
❤❤👍👍😊😊
I recently had a battery that went bad when I was out in my 1963 Austin Cambridge. I stopped my car when I was out shopping and had to jump out and get the starting handle. Sounds easy - right? Not so easy when your car has an automatic transmission. I got it started after some very hard cranking on the handle. My old Magnette and A55 MK2 were very easy to start on the handle. Barely took any effort.
This car will be “right as rain” really soon I’m sure.