Thanks for making this I know what I'm in for now. I have a series 100 that the seal failed and water is coming out of it. Just waiting for the parts to arrive in the mail so I can pull it apart and replace it.
So question. I have changed the couplet numerous times. I’m having some squeaking and more water leakage recently than a drip drip. When I remove the bearing assembly from the casing will I need to turn the water off or will I have to flush the system. I would pay someone to do it but there are very few people that work on these anymore. Thanks in advance and I hope my question makes sense. I plan on doing this when the weather warms up so I am not without heat.
you will need to isolate the pump or turn off the water.. if you don't have valves on each side of the pump you will possibly drain the system .. not knowing your system cant answer the flush part . if its a heating system and the water is nasty then might be good and add some treatment
Was trying to avoid taking apart later today, but tenants need heat. On the one side of the pump coming from the heater the pipes are hot, but on the other side feeding Taco valves, the water is cold and nothing is being pumped. It's making some noise, weeping a little, but at least the previous owner left parts.
Dicofole .. you want to use a light non detergent oil.. the 'spout' oil for fans works fine.. the bearing assemblies are supplied with a small amount to be put in at startup.. after that 3 drops every 3 months is all it needs
Great video thumbs up. I have an s-25 bf that was replaced under warranty last season but started squealing by spring time. Now it's squealing again louder than ever. Is there a video on how to remove the pump from the system? I'm not sure how these work and figure if I remove the pump then water will flow out everywhere.
there 'should' be valves in the pipe on both sides of the pump.. if not follow the pipe back BOTH ways until you find a valve that you can shut off.. the water in the pump will then be the only water you loose .. BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE BOILER AND THE ELECTRICTIY.... ALSO - you can remove the motor and see if the squeal is in its bearing without loosing any water
there are a few different types of couplings and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer .....if the couple is the 'spring/yoke" type and the pump rotation is clock wise and the coupler is made for counter clockwise the motor will push the springs together and probably ruin the bearing assembly ... many pumps have on line parts lists ...best to check for the correct part # .. but you can tell which way the pump rotates by looking at the impeller .. or the coupling .. if its a spring type the motor will pull the springs .. .. if its an insert type it wont matter
Hi; I have an Armstrong S25 and I just replaced the entire bearing assembly including the new casing. It is supposed to be maintenance free and no oil required. I find that it is much louder than the original bearing assebly that I had for 20 years. Do you know why?
if it is the maint free unit they have ball bearings instead of sleeve bearings ..which will make a little more noise ..the old version is still available as far as I know ... If the noise is a prob you can replace the s25 with a wet rotor model 230 ..ss ofr stainless and ci for cast iron .. they are usually very quiet .. I have 6 that run all the time in the winter in my house .. I can hear them in the mechanical room but nowhere else ... hope that helps
roger brainard Roger; thank you and I very much appreciate it. The noise level is 2 times the old bearing and it is quite annoying as I live in a 150 year old Victorian Home and the furnace is directly below the dining room. In other words you hear the sound from the dining room. Do you think that with time the sound level will decrease? Also, I found used versions for sale in Montreal where I live. I paid $230 for the replacement and hate to think that it is wasted money. Thank you for your help! FC
Frank Candido not had a lot of experience with the new ball bearing ones.. but ..if they don't start to get quiet in a week or two they probably won't .. there are actually a lot of things that can contribute to the noise transmission .. is it 'air born' noise or is it being transmitted thru the structure .. if structure maybe the pipe is supported to hard or too loose.. ?? . if you replaced the entire pump the coupling is new .. if you replaced just the bearing assembly did you also replace the coupling .. and are the rubber mounts on the motor in good shape... both of those can cause some noise as well ..best
roger brainard I just got off the phone with supplier and he said don't even bother with the seal kit because 80% of the times it don't work. He said just get the whole bearing assembly. Is that true?
i would say in general yes .. if it is only leaking a few drops ( a sloooow drip ) you can usually change the seal successfully .. if it is leaking more than that it is likely that water has been forced back into the bearing assembly housing and ruined them the bearings ... a more sure fix is to change the BA .. they usually have them with the impeller installed already that would be my recommendation.. again it depends on how much it is leaking
lol you are correct!!!.. I used the term 'casing' because most of the folks I deal with call it the casing ..or body ...or scroll .. or ??? Volute ( the actual proper name ) is not used very often by the folks that are actually doing the repairing ...
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I like this video because the instructer just gives you what you need to know and doesn't ramble on about thing that aren't relevant.
thank you
Thanks for making this I know what I'm in for now. I have a series 100 that the seal failed and water is coming out of it. Just waiting for the parts to arrive in the mail so I can pull it apart and replace it.
hope you have good success
Awesome clear as the sky your info. Thank you.
So question. I have changed the couplet numerous times. I’m having some squeaking and more water leakage recently than a drip drip. When I remove the bearing assembly from the casing will I need to turn the water off or will I have to flush the system. I would pay someone to do it but there are very few people that work on these anymore. Thanks in advance and I hope my question makes sense. I plan on doing this when the weather warms up so I am not without heat.
you will need to isolate the pump or turn off the water.. if you don't have valves on each side of the pump you will possibly drain the system .. not knowing your system cant answer the flush part . if its a heating system and the water is nasty then might be good and add some treatment
What treatment do you recommend. I’m not sure that we’ve ever added anything to the water.
i dont really have a suggestion .. the place where you buy parts might
Was trying to avoid taking apart later today, but tenants need heat. On the one side of the pump coming from the heater the pipes are hot, but on the other side feeding Taco valves, the water is cold and nothing is being pumped. It's making some noise, weeping a little, but at least the previous owner left parts.
great video, thank you very very much for making it understandable
Dicofole .. you want to use a light non detergent oil.. the 'spout' oil for fans works fine.. the bearing assemblies are supplied with a small amount to be put in at startup.. after that 3 drops every 3 months is all it needs
Hola.
Suba un vídeo de mantenimiento de un recirculador armstrong..gracias.
Just one question. Can I use full synthetic oil to lubricate the bearing?
i think the factory specs 20wt //but most of them are perm lubed these days .. make sure it needs to be oiled
it does need to be NON detergent
must be 20 wt NON detergent oil
what type of oil would you use ? synthetic and what grade ?
Great video thumbs up. I have an s-25 bf that was replaced under warranty last season but started squealing by spring time. Now it's squealing again louder than ever. Is there a video on how to remove the pump from the system? I'm not sure how these work and figure if I remove the pump then water will flow out everywhere.
there 'should' be valves in the pipe on both sides of the pump.. if not follow the pipe back BOTH ways until you find a valve that you can shut off.. the water in the pump will then be the only water you loose .. BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE BOILER AND THE ELECTRICTIY.... ALSO - you can remove the motor and see if the squeal is in its bearing without loosing any water
what happens if you install a clockwise or counterclockwise coupler? or what type of coupler do you have to install???
thanks
there are a few different types of couplings and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer .....if the couple is the 'spring/yoke" type and the pump rotation is clock wise and the coupler is made for counter clockwise the motor will push the springs together and probably ruin the bearing assembly ... many pumps have on line parts lists ...best to check for the correct part # .. but you can tell which way the pump rotates by looking at the impeller .. or the coupling .. if its a spring type the motor will pull the springs .. .. if its an insert type it wont matter
Hi; I have an Armstrong S25 and I just replaced the entire bearing assembly including the new casing. It is supposed to be maintenance free and no oil required. I find that it is much louder than the original bearing assebly that I had for 20 years. Do you know why?
if it is the maint free unit they have ball bearings instead of sleeve bearings ..which will make a little more noise ..the old version is still available as far as I know ... If the noise is a prob you can replace the s25 with a wet rotor model 230 ..ss ofr stainless and ci for cast iron .. they are usually very quiet .. I have 6 that run all the time in the winter in my house .. I can hear them in the mechanical room but nowhere else ... hope that helps
roger brainard Roger; thank you and I very much appreciate it. The noise level is 2 times the old bearing and it is quite annoying as I live in a 150 year old Victorian Home and the furnace is directly below the dining room. In other words you hear the sound from the dining room. Do you think that with time the sound level will decrease? Also, I found used versions for sale in Montreal where I live. I paid $230 for the replacement and hate to think that it is wasted money. Thank you for your help! FC
Frank Candido not had a lot of experience with the new ball bearing ones.. but ..if they don't start to get quiet in a week or two they probably won't .. there are actually a lot of things that can contribute to the noise transmission .. is it 'air born' noise or is it being transmitted thru the structure .. if structure maybe the pipe is supported to hard or too loose.. ?? . if you replaced the entire pump the coupling is new .. if you replaced just the bearing assembly did you also replace the coupling .. and are the rubber mounts on the motor in good shape... both of those can cause some noise as well ..best
roger brainard I replaced the entire assembly including the cover. I'll see what happens in a weak. Thanks.
fc
Very good video, thanx!
You are welcome!
only use 20 weight non detergent oil Get rid of that coupling and put in a Spiralink coupler, they last for ever.
Thank you
Much appreciated
You are very welcome
roger brainard I just got off the phone with supplier and he said don't even bother with the seal kit because 80% of the times it don't work.
He said just get the whole bearing assembly.
Is that true?
roger brainard the pump I need work done is a Armstrong S-45 MF/BF
i would say in general yes .. if it is only leaking a few drops ( a sloooow drip ) you can usually change the seal successfully .. if it is leaking more than that it is likely that water has been forced back into the bearing assembly housing and ruined them the bearings ... a more sure fix is to change the BA .. they usually have them with the impeller installed already that would be my recommendation.. again it depends on how much it is leaking
roger brainard oh yeah it's leaking like waterfall....thanks again
Such a great video but you stopped short of removing the shaft and showing us how. The pump I have is completely Frozen up. Thanks anyways
if its locked up it is best to replace the entire chunk ... you know that
@@thebrainard well I guess so! Thanks.
I think you need to take some time and go to inplix website to learn how to make it.
huh?
? just look for inplix !
Nice idea
How to tell if circulator pump is bad
+Latasha Strand if it is leaking or making an unusual noise or not running at all or if its running and no water is being pumped ..
Well done
thanks
VOLUTE!
lol you are correct!!!.. I used the term 'casing' because most of the folks I deal with call it the casing ..or body ...or scroll .. or ??? Volute ( the actual proper name ) is not used very often by the folks that are actually doing the repairing ...
Most annoying voice, slamming parts, blurry pictures and too fast.
there is a pause function... and you can actually play it a couple times if you can't keep up
You can set video to .75 even .5 speed too if needed.. Very helpful video thank you!