Alex i have a question, just replace motor, coupling is moving and all. Pilot is lite. But furnace not going. Do you think I need to let the water fill up?
Hola manuel. I need more information. what kind of controls do you have? Im assuming you have a boiler and not a furnace. If you lost water when you change the pump parts, you have to replenish it. You have to have at least 12 pounds of pressure. If your house or building has two or more floors I would rise it to 15-20. What kind of ignition do you have? check line voltage and 24 volts. So many posibilities..
Hello Don, you are right. The spiraling last forever! They are a bit pricy but they are worth it. Not all supply houses carry them. I buy mine at supply house.com $25 Vs B & G $ 6. Thanks for your input.
My pump has failed. I think the motor is shot. When I pulled away from bearing assembly I can still move the shaft on the bearing assembly but I don't know how much it should move freely. Should it spin as easily as the shaft on the motor? Could a tight bearing shaft cause the motor to go bad? Wouldn't the couplings break first? Is that not what they are for? Please help. I'm trying to decide if I should buy just a motor (much easier to replace) or the whole pump (break into the water pipe).
Hello MIke, 1 the bearing assembly, in my opinion, is a little bit harde r to turn with your hand, but you should be able to turn it with your hand. The motor shaft is easier to turn. Remove the motor and test it by itself. Connect it to an extension cord. If it spins with no trouble, Then is going to be the bearing assembly or the impeller. Yes a tight bearing assembly can cause the motor to go bad. Check amps on the motor. It should be 1.20 - to 1.35 amps when running. (if it is the 100 series) Yes the coupler's goal is to turn the bearing assembly with the motor shaft. It is weak on purpose so it breaks if there is something wrong with either the baring or the motor. If the coupler didn't break then is more than likely the bearing assembly or the impeller that broke. Some times impellers break and get stuck not allowing the assembly to turn. I would suggest to buy the whole pump (motor and bearing assembly and impeller) that way it is for sure you fix the problem. Or buy the whole pump and use only the part you need. If you buy separate parts is going to be more expensive. I buy my parts from supplyhouse (website) Is is cheaper that most places and ships fast . good luck with your project . Let me know how it goes. Alex
@@alexthehandyman3494 Hi, thank you for responding. I did what you said about connecting an extension cord to the motor. No luck. It is dead. I even had a service guy come over and confirm it for $180 last night! I ordered a new motor online last night so I should have that in a few days. House is staying somewhat warm just from the boiler moving water naturally. The shaft on the bearing assy does move with just my fingers and I don't hear or feel any grinding or anything. I am glad to hear that the couplers would break before the motor to protect it if the bearing assy seizes. Are you saying that if I replace the motor, there could still be a problem with the bearing assy or impeller which will just cause another motor failure? How would I know after I put the new motor in? Like I said, I already ordered a new motor last night. I really don't like the idea of having to break into the water line because I don't know if I can handle a proper bleed. Is that a hard job to do? What would happen if I don't do it right? Thanks in advance for your help on this. The guy quoted me like $2000 to replace the whole pump!
@@mikepotter3802 Hello Mike. 2000$$ Holly Molly!!! To replace that pump it would take 1-2 Hrs Plus bleeding the air out 1-2 hours Say Max 4 Hrs. at 100 -120 Hr that should be 400 to 600 Plus pump cost Pump cost is 500 plus mark up. A fair price would be 1400 (this is just my opinion) And yes!! your assembly and or impeller might be still bad. Try changing the pump first. Connected and turn it on. Listen for smooth operation. If you hear grinding or weird noises stop it right away. Do you have shut of valves before and after the pump?. Do you have bleed valves on the rerturn Pipes? Do you have one main return? or each zone has its own return? Either way, if you don't have the money or don't want to spend it, I encourage you to do it yourself. I can assist you via telephone or video. send pics of you can. what kind of zone valve do you have in your system?
Oh My!!!! How could I forget that on the video. tlhanksTony!! LUBRICATION PUMP BEARINGS Fill the bering frame according to the oiling instructions decal. At the time of installation, add approximately 1 oz of B&G @ 20 non detergent oil. Re-lubrication is required at the start of each season, or every three months for continuous service. Relubricate with a teaspoon of oil. MOTOR BEARINGS lubricate through the two motor oil cups according to the lubrication decal. At the time of installation the motor bearings use approx 12 drops each. At re-lubrication intervals fill each motor bearing with approx 6-8 drops.
WHAT YOU FELL TO TELL THE PEOPLE IS ABOUT THE RUBBER MOUNTS OF THE MOTOR AS THE MOTOR VIBRATES THE ALLIGNMENT OF THE MOTOR AND THE IMPELLER MOVE OVER TIME AND THE COUPLERS GO BAD,,,,BUT IF THEY PUT SOMETHING UNDER THE MOTOR TO KEEP THE WEIGHT OF THE IMPELLER ,,,THE PUMP WILL LAST FOR LONG TIME IF LUBED CORRECTLY.
Good thing you had that upside down bucket handy!🤣
right? LOL. thanks for watching.
Thank you 🙏
Great Video Alex!
Thanks so much Sammy
Im glad you liked it.
Just be careful buddy there's a saying a happy wife happy life keep up the good work LOL
LOL You are right!! Thanks for watching
What size wrenches and Allen keys did you use?
Hello. 1/8. T handle. Long
Alex i have a question, just replace motor, coupling is moving and all. Pilot is lite. But furnace not going. Do you think I need to let the water fill up?
Hola manuel. I need more information. what kind of controls do you have?
Im assuming you have a boiler and not a furnace.
If you lost water when you change the pump parts, you have to replenish it. You have to have at least 12 pounds of pressure. If your house or building has two or more floors I would rise it to 15-20. What kind of ignition do you have? check line voltage and 24 volts. So many posibilities..
Thank you
Whats up Crisper? Thanks a lot for the comment. See you next video. Thanks for subscribing.
At 4:35 and 5:32 you can see the damage done by the fly away (oem) coupling to the bearing assembly.
Spiralink couplers last almost indefinitely.
Hello Don,
you are right. The spiraling last forever!
They are a bit pricy but they are worth it. Not all supply houses carry them. I buy mine at
supply house.com $25 Vs B & G $ 6.
Thanks for your input.
My pump has failed. I think the motor is shot. When I pulled away from bearing assembly I can still move the shaft on the bearing assembly but I don't know how much it should move freely. Should it spin as easily as the shaft on the motor? Could a tight bearing shaft cause the motor to go bad? Wouldn't the couplings break first? Is that not what they are for? Please help. I'm trying to decide if I should buy just a motor (much easier to replace) or the whole pump (break into the water pipe).
Hello MIke,
1 the bearing assembly, in my opinion, is a little bit harde r to turn with your hand, but you should be able to turn it with your hand.
The motor shaft is easier to turn.
Remove the motor and test it by itself. Connect it to an extension cord. If it spins with no trouble, Then is going to be the bearing assembly or the impeller.
Yes a tight bearing assembly can cause the motor to go bad.
Check amps on the motor. It should be 1.20 - to 1.35 amps when running. (if it is the 100 series)
Yes the coupler's goal is to turn the bearing assembly with the motor shaft. It is weak on purpose so it breaks if there is something wrong with either the baring or the motor.
If the coupler didn't break then is more than likely the bearing assembly or the impeller that broke.
Some times impellers break and get stuck not allowing the assembly to turn.
I would suggest to buy the whole pump (motor and bearing assembly and impeller) that way it is for sure you fix the problem.
Or buy the whole pump and use only the part you need. If you buy separate parts is going to be more expensive.
I buy my parts from supplyhouse (website) Is is cheaper that most places and ships fast .
good luck with your project . Let me know how it goes. Alex
@@alexthehandyman3494 Hi, thank you for responding. I did what you said about connecting an extension cord to the motor. No luck. It is dead. I even had a service guy come over and confirm it for $180 last night! I ordered a new motor online last night so I should have that in a few days. House is staying somewhat warm just from the boiler moving water naturally. The shaft on the bearing assy does move with just my fingers and I don't hear or feel any grinding or anything. I am glad to hear that the couplers would break before the motor to protect it if the bearing assy seizes.
Are you saying that if I replace the motor, there could still be a problem with the bearing assy or impeller which will just cause another motor failure? How would I know after I put the new motor in? Like I said, I already ordered a new motor last night.
I really don't like the idea of having to break into the water line because I don't know if I can handle a proper bleed. Is that a hard job to do? What would happen if I don't do it right? Thanks in advance for your help on this. The guy quoted me like $2000 to replace the whole pump!
@@mikepotter3802 Hello Mike. 2000$$ Holly Molly!!! To replace that pump it would take 1-2 Hrs Plus bleeding the air out 1-2 hours Say Max 4 Hrs.
at 100 -120 Hr that should be 400 to 600 Plus pump cost Pump cost is 500 plus mark up. A fair price would be 1400 (this is just my opinion)
And yes!! your assembly and or impeller might be still bad. Try changing the pump first. Connected and turn it on. Listen for smooth operation. If you hear grinding or weird noises stop it right away. Do you have shut of valves before and after the pump?. Do you have bleed valves on the rerturn Pipes? Do you have one main return? or each zone has its own return? Either way, if you don't have the money or don't want to spend it, I encourage you to do it yourself. I can assist you via telephone or video. send pics of you can. what kind of zone valve do you have in your system?
No oil in the new bearing assembly ?
Oh My!!!! How could I forget that on the video.
tlhanksTony!!
LUBRICATION
PUMP BEARINGS
Fill the bering frame according to the oiling instructions decal. At the time of installation, add approximately 1 oz of B&G @ 20 non detergent oil.
Re-lubrication is required at the start of each season, or every three months for continuous service.
Relubricate with a teaspoon of oil.
MOTOR BEARINGS
lubricate through the two motor oil cups according to the lubrication decal. At the time of installation the motor bearings use approx 12 drops each.
At re-lubrication intervals fill each motor bearing with approx 6-8 drops.
WHAT YOU FELL TO TELL THE PEOPLE IS ABOUT THE RUBBER MOUNTS OF THE MOTOR
AS THE MOTOR VIBRATES THE ALLIGNMENT OF THE MOTOR AND THE IMPELLER MOVE OVER TIME AND THE COUPLERS GO BAD,,,,BUT IF THEY PUT SOMETHING UNDER THE MOTOR TO KEEP THE WEIGHT OF THE IMPELLER ,,,THE PUMP WILL LAST FOR LONG TIME IF LUBED CORRECTLY.
Hey John. Thanks for your comment.
I never had done that, but it makes sense. Thanks for the tip.