Having been a fitter and turner for the last 60 years ,now retired 20+ years, I'm always highly super critical when I see someone working on machinery........no criticism intended as we all make errors of judgement occasionally.
Hello Harris, thanks for this video! At 10:00, you are showing very small deflection numbers on your dial indicator. Did you take any measurements before, so you could report a before & after result?
I am just curious now, how did you manage to get the first new bearing off, without damaging things? (I could understand how that part might need to have been edited.!!).. I suppose if you had access to the inner race up against the shoulder, & the right puller, but often there isn't much exposed.. or maybe the fit was not that tight? Thx!
Well spotted! I managed to start a gap by tapping an old woodworking chisel between the inner race boss and the spindle shoulder. Thereafter I was able to tap the bearing off up the length of the shaft with a brass drift, but it was fiddly and I can't guarantee I didn't shock the bearing cages. They sound ok but time will tell.
A Great video. A lot of work goes into changing out the spindle bearings. I had to think, Do I really want to do this. I decided to go with it. My video comes out next week Feb, 17. I hope it works out as well as yours.
You didn't show how to set the preload. There is very little info on the web about this topic Tight enough to hold concentricity, but too tight and it will cause excessive wear and heat. How did you decide to set the preload? Thanks
I just tightened up the c-nuts til it felt right. As I say at 09:13, it felt free-running but without being free-wheeling. A little later on I check the deflection with a dial indicator which showed about 1/3 of 0.01mm, so a few tenths.These are angular bearings as opposed to tapered, so preload is less of a precise art. I believe This Old Tony has a video on fitting taper bearings to this identical lathe and even he came to the conclusion that angular bearings are probably the better option. Appreciate the comment, thanks for taking the time 👍
As I say at 09:13, I tightened the c-nuts til it felt free-running but without being free-wheeling. A little later on I check the deflection with a dial indicator which showed about 1/3 of 0.01mm.
Interesting point. Taper bearings need some method of preload, plus they're not sealed so the headstock would need to be converted into a lubricant sump. That's not to say it's not possible, it's just a very much bigger job for arguably not that much more functionality than a straightforward angular bearing replacement provides.
@@myharris Everyone uses tapered roller bearings in these lathes & I'm not sure why you think they need to be sealed in the first place. This isn't an upgrade at all, just a sideways step as the SKF's extra quality is pretty pointless if you can't pre load them in the same way as even cheap tapered. Surely, you must have watched other people's video's & know all this.
@@Arckivio I mean, respect to your opinion but tapered bearings are not necessarily the best solution. You may be convinced but it is the subject of some debate and I would say far from settled. For the relatively light loads on these hobby lathes my opinion would be that tapered bearings are way overkill and simply don't deliver enough benefit to make the considerable job of creating an oil sump and figuring out how to seal them worth while. Angular bearings are specifcally designed to handle axial and radial loads and are ideal for this application. You may disagree, but to say that using any other solution than the one you personally have decided on is somehow not doing the job 'properly' is imo a stretch. It's not a competition :) Appreciate the input, thanks for taking the time .
Always used SKF in preference to any others, when I had the choice, for over 40 years. Never had an an issue with them at all. I suspect that there are a lot of counterfeits around when bought online these days. But that would be the same with RHP, FAG, NSK or even Timkin. I just use my local bearing supplier who I trust to get genuine bearings.
@@BiggestD70 Great comment, thank you. I have done just that and as and when time permits will be getting a short video out on fitting it. Thanks for taking the time, much appreciated.
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Having been a fitter and turner for the last 60 years ,now retired 20+ years, I'm always highly super critical when I see someone working on machinery........no criticism intended as we all make errors of judgement occasionally.
Hello Harris, thanks for this video! At 10:00, you are showing very small deflection numbers on your dial indicator. Did you take any measurements before, so you could report a before & after result?
I am just curious now, how did you manage to get the first new bearing off, without damaging things? (I could understand how that part might need to have been edited.!!).. I suppose if you had access to the inner race up against the shoulder, & the right puller, but often there isn't much exposed.. or maybe the fit was not that tight? Thx!
Well spotted! I managed to start a gap by tapping an old woodworking chisel between the inner race boss and the spindle shoulder. Thereafter I was able to tap the bearing off up the length of the shaft with a brass drift, but it was fiddly and I can't guarantee I didn't shock the bearing cages. They sound ok but time will tell.
A Great video. A lot of work goes into changing out the spindle bearings. I had to think, Do I really want to do this. I decided to go with it. My video comes out next week Feb, 17. I hope it works out as well as yours.
Thanks so much for your feedback Glenn, it's truly appreciated. Looking forward to seeing your take on this next week
👍
You didn't show how to set the preload. There is very little info on the web about this topic Tight enough to hold concentricity, but too tight and it will cause excessive wear and heat. How did you decide to set the preload? Thanks
I just tightened up the c-nuts til it felt right. As I say at 09:13, it felt free-running but without being free-wheeling. A little later on I check the deflection with a dial indicator which showed about 1/3 of 0.01mm, so a few tenths.These are angular bearings as opposed to tapered, so preload is less of a precise art. I believe This Old Tony has a video on fitting taper bearings to this identical lathe and even he came to the conclusion that angular bearings are probably the better option. Appreciate the comment, thanks for taking the time 👍
How did you set the bearing preload?
As I say at 09:13, I tightened the c-nuts til it felt free-running but without being free-wheeling. A little later on I check the deflection with a dial indicator which showed about 1/3 of 0.01mm.
Interesting that you didnt use tapered roller bearings as they are adjustable.
Interesting point. Taper bearings need some method of preload, plus they're not sealed so the headstock would need to be converted into a lubricant sump. That's not to say it's not possible, it's just a very much bigger job for arguably not that much more functionality than a straightforward angular bearing replacement provides.
@@myharris Everyone uses tapered roller bearings in these lathes & I'm not sure why you think they need to be sealed in the first place. This isn't an upgrade at all, just a sideways step as the SKF's extra quality is pretty pointless if you can't pre load them in the same way as even cheap tapered. Surely, you must have watched other people's video's & know all this.
@@Arckivio Watch This Old Tony's video on the subject.
@@myharris I have. Love old Tony, I'd still buy some tapered bearings & do the job properly
@@Arckivio I mean, respect to your opinion but tapered bearings are not necessarily the best solution. You may be convinced but it is the subject of some debate and I would say far from settled. For the relatively light loads on these hobby lathes my opinion would be that tapered bearings are way overkill and simply don't deliver enough benefit to make the considerable job of creating an oil sump and figuring out how to seal them worth while. Angular bearings are specifcally designed to handle axial and radial loads and are ideal for this application. You may disagree, but to say that using any other solution than the one you personally have decided on is somehow not doing the job 'properly' is imo a stretch. It's not a competition :) Appreciate the input, thanks for taking the time .
Aren’t those bearings about $80 each?
They were GBP15 each, which is about US$19.
✨✨✨👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
you forgot the flask
Not quite with you - flask? How do you mean? Appreciate your input, many thanks
Maybe he meant chuck end bearing cover
Never ever use SKF bearings. They are not the same company they used to be.
Interesting to know, thanks for sharing. I reckon they'll still do better than the no-brand 6206s that were OEM though 😥
Maybe true however there are counterfit parts everywhere.
Always used SKF in preference to any others, when I had the choice, for over 40 years. Never had an an issue with them at all. I suspect that there are a lot of counterfeits around when bought online these days. But that would be the same with RHP, FAG, NSK or even Timkin. I just use my local bearing supplier who I trust to get genuine bearings.
Throw out the Alum piston post and get you a dovetail wedge type, AXA if you can fit it, world of difference
@@BiggestD70 Great comment, thank you. I have done just that and as and when time permits will be getting a short video out on fitting it. Thanks for taking the time, much appreciated.